Very well done video sir. Removed the need for a air compressor, pressure regulator, blocking off the intake manifold to intercooler piping. Thank you for helping.
Very useful info...i'll definitely be testing my 2000 'new' beetle 1.8t using this method...it's an older model with no boost gauge on the instrument cluster, so i have no idea if I'm getting the 8-13 psi i should be getting or not. Also, it seems to be lacking power, it feels nowhere near the 150 hp once you really feel the turbo kick in around 3,500 rpm. I also want to check the intercooler, i see a visible wet spot on pavement under front right corner of bumper...i take that's a really bad sign.
+Nicholas Dobos a boost gauge is a good idea, especially on an older car. I installed one as a first line of information. You might also have to clean out your intercooler. A little oil is normal, but excessive amounts may point to a different an issue like a failing turbo. Let me know if you habe any other questions or need any help!
Hey Steve, great vid. I used to have a silver '03 Wagon, with the auto tiptronic. It kept me very safe in a rollover when someone pulled out infront of me when i was doing 50. I now have a B5.5 Passat with the 1.8, also an auto. I am curious to know how we are able to hear your bypass valve at the end of the video so clearly!?! Is it because you have changed out the intake? I wish i could hear mine a little better. I have an RKX diverter valve and since its a closed system its very quiet. -Dan
@@danieloshaughnessy8476 Glad you like the bikes! Unfortunately the Spicer is no more, someone cut me off in a car and I crashed it. As for the for the blow off noise, it's all the intake I had. It's a stock diverter valve with an intake that goes down to lower front grill in front of the fender. I actually put a different intake and a silicone TIP on and the noise is now quieter. I'm a little bummed it's not so loud anymore.
Sorry if this is ignorant, but I noticed a small conical air filter off the right side of your engine. What is that filter hooked in to? I’m curious. I’ve done all the deletes I’ve learned about. I’ve yet to see anyone running a small air filter in that area. Thanks for any answer or help
Wouldn't be a good idea to leave crankcase breather lines connected? What I mean is that as far as i know there is a one way valve that should let pressure only from crankcase to the intake manifold, not in the other way. So you could also test this valve if it's not stuck open. Am I right?
You could leave them connected, but in my case I knew the PCV lines weren't an issue. I knew I was getting a leak from somewhere else. It's also not a bad idea to try and isolate the area you're testing.
injecting pressurized air that point fully tests the entire boost and vacuum system all the way to the engine? are there other leaks possible that need to be tested elsewhere?
I would suggest visual checks and trying to narrow down where you're testing, but doing it this way will test most of the system. It may miss an area that is only under pressure if a valve opens.
What size pvc plug and cap did u use. I want to do the same test on my 1.8t. Idle goes up and down and I see the boost gauge move when it’s idling up and down
I say right in the video, 2in PVC end cap, and a 1in plug. Remember that PVC is measured by the inside diameter, and what we care for this usage is outside diameter, so you have to measure it yourself.
hey so im about to do this but im worried about the pressure possibly messing with the throttle plate, is that possible? if the throttle plate is not an issue (ive heard that it's always slightly open) then how will this pressure affect the engine if it's not running? just wondering if there's a way for the pressure to escape other than my leak, don't want to damage anything.
As long as you don't do too much pressure you'll be fine. A stock setup boosts about 10psi, aftermarket tunes can go as high as 20 on a stock car. You won't hurt anything putting a slow amount of pressure from a bike pump.
Hey ,, I have a question , hope you can help. I have a VW Jetta TDI 2004 MK4 engine. The brakes work fine when the engine is running, never had a problem.. However, originally after turning the engine off, and after a few minutes if you press the brake pedal , I use to have some braking ability, at least a couple pumps, than it would use the "stored" vaccum that the system had from when the car was runing, and even the next day if you press the pedal before starting the engine, I would still have that nice and smoth action , as if the car wound be runing ( just for a couple pumps at least, than I would start the car, and all would be ok) I am assming that would be because of some vaccum pressure from the day before that was kept in the system , that is normal of course, But now, as soon as I turn the engine off, a few seconds later, if I use the brake pedal just once, the brake pedal becomes hard, as if I had pumped it a few times. My guess is that I have a leak ( rather large leak) in the system,, As I mentioned, it does not affect or its note noticible when I am driving, Because of that, I did not bother to look for the leak yet. I consider myself pretty savy and do most of my car maintenace, and since I have some extra time now with this COVID-19 confinement I am going to look for this leak. So, before I start looking around I would like your professional opinion on this subject and what you would recomend I start looking for. Much appreciated ED
I'm no professional, but thanks for the compliment! I'm not very knowledgeable about the TDI engine, I unfortunately haven't owned one before. There should be a line that runs off the brake booster to a vacuum source on the engine, that is where I would start. My car was doing something similar when I first bought it, and that was the issue. It's like a little plastic line with a check valve on the 1.8t. Let me know if that helps or if you need more assistance!
Thanks for the video and setup. I have a compressor running very low pressure and I can hear leaking somewhere under the manifold but I cannot locate it for the life of me even with the soapy water spray. it seems to be pretty far below but not so sure I would gain anything from underneath. Any ideas appreciated. Thanks
@Sean Robinson Glad you found helpful, and I'm jealous you have a compressor. If it's under the manifold chances are it has something to do with the mess of vacuum lines and PCV lines running under there. Id remove the large black piece that is bolted to the manifold to get better access to the lines under there. Going from underneath won't be any better since it's so high up. Maybe you could see them, but it will be tough to get any hands on access. Let me know if you need any more help!
See video, here is what is leaking. Not sure what this part is called? It is the 2 Allen bolts you take off to remove bracket in front of manifold and dipstick. m.th-cam.com/video/R3vTkMoTkFw/w-d-xo.html
Well it isn’t the injection valve I thought was leaking...I applied 12V to it while doing the air compressor test and it shuts off. Glad I didn’t replace it :) guess I will wait for my smoke machine to arrive. I can’t find anything else leaking
You can do the same type of setup, you just need a way to get smoke into the system. I've actually used a smoke machine to blow smoke in, then cap and pressurize the system to see where it pushes out. It's not perfect, but way cheaper than buying a legit machine or having a shop do it.
@WhatJoshyDoes Tv It's a pressure regulator valve, and regulates the blowby from the engine going back into the intake. When it goes bad it doesn't regulate the amount of air traveling into your turbo inlet pipe, and can cause a rough idle because your crankcase isn't venting properly.
chops Are you talking about the hard plastic hose that's for the secondary air injection pump? If so there's no need to work about that one since you're not interacting with it.
+chops im not totally familiar with the ALH engine, but the line that the hockey puck hooks up to should be plugged. Let me if I csn be of anymore help!
I have a mk6 gti got it back from shop that put new engine in and it idled weird and then wouldn’t give me full power. I got 3 codes, system to lean at idle bank 1, turbo overboost condition, and intake air system leak. Does that seem like a vacuum issue?
Those could all come from vacuum leaks, but could also be other stuff. I'd start with a leak test and move from there. The lean code could be an o2 sensor, the other two could be a sensor/solenoid. But if you were to replace parts and still have a vacuum leak, you'd still get the code. Start with a vacuum least test, and if that passes move onto testing other components of the air/fuel system.
Please help! I have a 2015 jetta 1.8t. I get no boost. The internals on the turbo are good, as far as bearings. My friend insists diverter valve is bad but I get zero boost. Idk much about volkswagens or turbos. Epc and check engine light are on
The EPC could be a few different things - throttle, cruise control, or traction control. If you scan your car and find out what the CEL is, that will most likely point to why the EPC light is on and why you're getting no boost. No boost could be a lot of different issues, but the CEL is a roadmap, get the car scanned and find out why that's on before throwing parts at it.
Im having an issue where the car starts, then stalls immediately. If I am able to get it to run, it will idle well for about 30 seconds then it starts to break down, sounds like its burping up through the intake, and won't accelerate no matter if you press the gas pedal or not, would a vacuum leak cause this? prior to this issue we noticed clicking noise, which seemed to be coming from the fuel pressure regulator, not sure if it related or not.
Fuel pressure regulators normally don't click since they're operated off of vacuum. A vacuum leak could cause this issue, but it's not where I would start. I don't know your car, but the computer should do a fair amount of compensating for a vacuum leak before it won't run at all. Though it could be from a vacuum leak, it's not exactly where I'd start. It's not something small if the car isn't running. Start simple - make sure all your sensors are plugged in, and clamps around any vacuum or intake hoses are tight. If that that checks out, I'd look at your fuel system. Make sure your pump is good, fuel pressure regulator is good, and then scope our your injectors.
That's definitely possible, though I don't have experience with that exact engine. An even easier check than this is to just visually go over the lines to check for cracks or breaks.
I honestly don't remember. It's not a large line, I just brought it to the auto parts store and matched the diameter. It's only a couple of bucks and any store will have it.
so i’m kinda lost here. i have a 2002 Jetta 1.8t awp. i was testing for leaks following step by step this video. the only thing i unplugged was the maf and the iat sensor on my intercooler. fixed all leaks and put everything back together and sense it’s been running real real rough, my gas gauge has stopped working, as well as my speedo. i don’t even know where to start. i hit the gas and the gas gauge drops and light comes on and starts beeping. it lacks so much power and jolts real hard on decel. it’s holding boost but struggles so hard to get there and cuts out at times. any help would be appreciated
Sounds like you've got a lot going on besides boost leaks. Is the check engine light on? What shape is your battery and alternator in? There's something going on with the wiring or electrical system based on what you're saying with the gauges. I would solve that first to make sure the car has the proper electrical power it needs before trying to address anything else.
@@StevesGaragelike a week before this i was having electrical issues where the battery kept dying and the car would die in traffic. it ended up being a fuse in the junction box connected to the battery, during that time i got the battery and alternator checked and they both passed. i’m getting a o2 sensor code but i don’t see how that could affect my gas gauge and tachometer and make it run so rough. another thing i’ve noticed since that happened is the wire that connects to alternator (looks like the ground that goes on the starter) started to gel and almost look like a yellow/brownish glue, like it was melting. thank you
@@efansalinas4589 I'd take care of the electrical issues first. it's very common to experience issues with the fuse block on top of the battery and the lead that goes to the alternator. If your electrical system isn't functioning properly it cam cause issues all over the car (like your gauges going haywire) but it will also keep you from being able to properly diagnose problems with the car running. Melty wires can also cause a fire. Things are getting too hot and somethings not right.
So my 2003 1.8t has some issue with its boost. So it will run fine idles rough here and their not often. Then then I’m driving it I can feel the real lack of power because it’s pushing like 5-10 pounds of boost when it normally pushes 20,25 psi. But when I’m dring it and it tops out at 5psi it just sits at 3k rpm in 3rd gear making an awful sound then when I shift it back fires a little. But it does this almost every time I drive it and shift it and I’m lost on whats wrong with it and can’t find a similar issue
Sounds like you've got a lot going on here. If you're hitting 20-25lbs I assume you're tuned? What tune are you running? The 3k limit in 3rd gear sounds like limp mode. Do you have a CEL? If you don't have a CEL, I'd scan anyway because sometimes you can have a soft code that doesn't trigger a CEL. Your intermittent rough idle could be plugs, coils, vacuum lines, or even pcv components.
@@StevesGarage so it’s a euros customs tune and I don’t have a check engine light. And I checked the plugs and coils. Haven’t tested the vacuum lines yet nor the pcv components. But even when I give it gas it sputters and barely goes up and dies on itself. But then when I turn it back on it starts back up again and runs fine and I’m not sure what it’s doing that for.
@@god-jy1sr If the plugs and coils are good I'd move to check vac lines/hoses, PCV, and your fuel system. With it running like that I'm surprised it doesn't have a check engine light. It's not easy to diagnose stuff over a comment section like this, but I'm hoping I can help you get it back on track!
@@StevesGarage well I figured it out after it wouldn’t start so the whole time it was a fuel issue. So what happened was my fuel pump died on me so it wouldn’t start.
I'm new to the modded 1.8t scene and I have just purchased a 2000 golf mk4 turbo. It is on a stage 2 tune by urotuning. It's running a k03s on 23 lbs boost with a front mount intercooler and 3 inch turbo back with cat delete. It currently has NGK Laser platnium plugs, stock coil and fuel pump and injectors as well. I'm running into an issue that doesn't happen all the time mainly in first and second gear where the boost will get to around 15 lbs and drop to 5 and then trys to surge back up. Where should I start troubleshooting the issue
Welcome to the club! 1.8t's can be a ton of fun. There are definitely a few things that could be going on here. N75 valve could be bad, or need to be upgraded. That controls how much boost the turbo can make. The N249 valve can also be bad, which controls the diverter valve. In addition to those two sensors, there's a lot of other things that can cause the boost fluctuation like bad vacuum lines, diverter valve, wastegate issue, etc. If I were you, I'd get a VAGCOM and get the car scanned. That way you can see what all the systems are doing to see what is failing. If I'm not mistaken doesn't a stage two need an upgraded FPR? I'm not that familiar with stage two tunes since I haven't gone that far yet.
My buddy has an 03 1.8T. He's replaced the N75 and most of the boost hoses. However it will only build to 5 psi, then we took the wastegate hose off and it built up to 10psi but would not go any higher. Where should would we looked next? We also attempted to readjust the wastegate but no luck on that.
You say it boosts around 10psi with it disconnected. If it's a stock tune, thats about all it should be boosting. When you disconnected it, I assume you disconnected the N75 valve form controlling the wastegate? If that's the case, it sounds like your N75 may not be good, or you have it hooked up wrong? It could also be FPR hoses or EGR hoses like my video above. I would be certain you have zero boost leaks before you go chasing valves and adjusting the wastegate. Because all of that means nothing if you still have a leak somewhere.
@@StevesGarage yea before the car was pushing 15 pounds and about 18 on a really cold day until water blew up the engine (went through a puddle) and he swapped engines which came with a different turbo but his old one used to fall in boost in 4th and 5th
My mk4 gives a puff of blue smoke if it give it more than 10psi of boost. If I dont spool up the turbo no smoke also notice the rubber line going to waste gate has oil everywhere any ideas
So I don't have experience with a turbo blowing, but that's what it sounds like to me. Do you hear a buzzing noise under boost? How many miles are on the car, and are you pushing more than stock boost levels?
Sounds to be like something with a vacuum line, or other rubber hose. It could even be a break in the intake hose post MAF letting in un-metered air. Typically something that goes away after the car warms up means the break is expanding when hot causing the issue to stop. I would do a leak down test like in this video, or another method where you take something like starter fluid and spray around lines and hoses to see if the idle changes.
We have 1.8t 2000 passat and I too diverter valve off to drill some holes and when I took it off about a 1/4 cup of oil fell all over my face same with the corner hose leading to intercooler not as much oil though....it used to smoke all of the oil in diverter valve used to be pushing the oil into the intake. The oil has caused some gaps in the diverter valve seal so now I have a boost leak in it....it's another spot to check for a leak
Sounds like you might need to check on your PCV system. You may have an issue with your check valve, or a worse problem with excessive blowby from the engine.
There's a lot of stuff coming off the turbo inlet pipe, so I'm not sure what exact parts you're wondering about. The diverter valve and hockey puck are up there, along with other vacuum lines, and the N75 valve.
got a mk4 1.8t, raced a camero yesterday and as soon as I shifted to 3rd gear i went from 20psi to 2 psi. and it holds 2 psi now in every gear, I dont hear any boost leaks and havent tested it. dont know if I should test it or not because I am getting some boost? thoughts?
If you don't have a check engine light, I would check your wastegate is functioning properly. A bad solenoid stopping boost from building should give you a CEL, and I believe limp mode is 4 or 5psi, so that sounds like a mechanical failure with boost that low. I'd also assume you'd hear a boost leak bad enough to only build 2psi of boost, BUT, it might be worth a leak down test like in the video just to make sure you don't have any issues.
@@OriginalLofiBeats Did you recently replace your timing belt? Is it also possible that your cam chain tensioner is bad? That's not a code I'm familiar with, so I'm just going off a quick google search.
@@StevesGarage took it to the shop, at first glance they thought it was the vvt solenoid or the timing chain tensioner, turns out it was a fuse the went to a few sensors related to timing, i think it was fuse 32
@@OriginalLofiBeats In the words of one of my coworkers, "I love easy problems". It's easy to go to the wort thing immediately (even I did) when in reality sometimes it's something so simple.
I have a whistling kinda noise coming from my 1.8t mk4 but i dont know if it is a leak or a turbo problem... need help asap as its killing me this noise
A failed turbo typically sounds more like whine than a whistle. It's usually fairly constant, and then intensifies on acceleration. You'll also have a lack of power (but that could occur from a boost leak as well). Did you perform the boost leak test? The biggest thing that could signify a failed turbo besides the noise and lack of power is burning oil. Let me know if there's anything else I can do to help!
Thank you! I'm not sure what the bubbling would be, I heard only air passing. Is you PCV system worn out? Maybe you have a lot of oil in the PCV lines thats moving around?
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I got same kind of oil / water bubbling sound eminating from somewhere around the motor. Have no idea whats causing it.
I'd check all your PCV hoses, intercooler piping, and vacuum lines. Start up top by the diverter valve with the vac lines. I've replaced all those lines, and the EGR lines in front of the intake manifold because of cracks or breaks.
I filmed the intro itself, and the music is from the TH-cam library. I'm glad you like it! I've been going back and forth if I want to keep using it or not because I'm not sure how much people like it.
+Melvin Rubio Yes it should be almost identical. There are subtle differences between the different engine sizes, and Audi vs VW, but the basic concept is the same. Let me know if you have questions or need any assistance!
Eric Ver Linden The boost hoses? No, I only have a video for replacing the PCV hoses. Do you have a question about a specific hose? I might be able to help you out.
Eric Ver Linden ohhh ok. No I don't have a video for that. The fuel pressure line I just bought a rubber hose from AutoZone, that was a simple replacement. The EGR hoses were tough to film so I didn't. Originally I tried to DIY the hoses, but they're odd sized, so it didn't work. I ended up buying the entire replacement, which was about $150 from ECS. Here's the link for the part I bought www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/vacuum-pipes-set-egr-valve/06a145691cb/?gclid=CjwKCAjwo87YBRBgEiwAI1LkqR9Odz7IXRtY7P1acdJ-qBVxNDOC-gT-YwnVhZMAZfmxZIS4JBfJLxoCqAcQAvD_BwE Replacing the whole assembly wasn't bad, mostly disconnecting and reconnecting hoses. You could delete the whole thing, but I also tried that and my car ran like garbage.
@@StevesGarage I get that you block off the hockey puck hole on the TIP but do you need to block up the pipe leading to the hockey puck from the engine as well?
@@StevesGarage thanks I did this a while ago I found two leaks, the one was on the bottom of the pipe leading from the charge pipe to the DV. The tear was the size of the palm of my hand. 3 mechanics could not find it!
+MrBananaPsycho I guess technically yes. Before testing I had assumed it was a boost leak, but after testing found it was vacuum lines. Either way, I was able to diagnose and fix the issue so it's all good!
+Zilla geddon that means something is probably expanding when hot and causing a hole. Most likely a rubber line/hose causing the problem. I'd wait for the car to warm up when the issue happens, and then do this test.
My fuel pressure regulator hose has been disconnected from the other side, where does it go? Picture: drive.google.com/open?id=1KIDxjHrSPGj5ZhtrIEep2g3U5TMaUuiU
+Gábor Bérczi Technically yes. But being that I had a lack of boost and not an issue with how the car ran, I had assumed it was a boost leak. Either way this eaay tool helped me diagnose and fix the issue.
Does that matter if the goal is a test for vacuum hoses? What I'm doing here is the same idea as a smoke test to find leaks in hoses, not really an engine leakdown/compression type test.
@@StevesGarage It seems to me that if the valves are not closed, it loses tightness. If the exhaust valves are open, air enters the combustion chamber, although the probability of it just remaining in the overlap position is low. (overlap position, beginning of opening of intake valves before completely closing the exhaust valves) Typical in 1.8t vvt
@@alejandrodibenedetto66 I don't think it really matters if the goal is to test vacuum lines. I found the leak in my system without any concern of the valve location. Of course if your goal is to check the valves and cylinders, that's a different story.
I used a 12v tyre inflator
Great idea! I didn't have one of those at the time, but it would work just as well!
@@StevesGarage a pressurized garden sprayer could also save you from the fatigue of pumping the soap
@@jetli6959 That's another good option!
Finally tutorial showing its possible with bike pump also!!! All other videos skipping this part just "connect compressor".
Glad you found it! Yea, no need for the compressor, any bike pump will supply enough air to expose the leak.
Very well done video sir. Removed the need for a air compressor, pressure regulator, blocking off the intake manifold to intercooler piping. Thank you for helping.
You're welcome! Glad you liked the video.
If You would know how much You helped me. Thanks a milion! 👍
Glad it helped!
Very useful info...i'll definitely be testing my 2000 'new' beetle 1.8t using this method...it's an older model with no boost gauge on the instrument cluster, so i have no idea if I'm getting the 8-13 psi i should be getting or not. Also, it seems to be lacking power, it feels nowhere near the 150 hp once you really feel the turbo kick in around 3,500 rpm. I also want to check the intercooler, i see a visible wet spot on pavement under front right corner of bumper...i take that's a really bad sign.
+Nicholas Dobos a boost gauge is a good idea, especially on an older car. I installed one as a first line of information. You might also have to clean out your intercooler. A little oil is normal, but excessive amounts may point to a different an issue like a failing turbo. Let me know if you habe any other questions or need any help!
Hey Steve, great vid. I used to have a silver '03 Wagon, with the auto tiptronic. It kept me very safe in a rollover when someone pulled out infront of me when i was doing 50. I now have a B5.5 Passat with the 1.8, also an auto. I am curious to know how we are able to hear your bypass valve at the end of the video so clearly!?! Is it because you have changed out the intake? I wish i could hear mine a little better. I have an RKX diverter valve and since its a closed system its very quiet.
-Dan
PS I love your fixed gears!
@@danieloshaughnessy8476 Glad you like the bikes! Unfortunately the Spicer is no more, someone cut me off in a car and I crashed it. As for the for the blow off noise, it's all the intake I had. It's a stock diverter valve with an intake that goes down to lower front grill in front of the fender. I actually put a different intake and a silicone TIP on and the noise is now quieter. I'm a little bummed it's not so loud anymore.
I just tested the boost leak and it's in the same place as yours :0, I haven't replaced it yet but did it restore your boost?
It did! It's an expensive little piece, but it fixed it and I haven't had any issues since.
Sorry if this is ignorant, but I noticed a small conical air filter off the right side of your engine. What is that filter hooked in to? I’m curious. I’ve done all the deletes I’ve learned about. I’ve yet to see anyone running a small air filter in that area. Thanks for any answer or help
No worries! It's the line for the SAI pump. The intake I had on the car didn't have a spot for it, so I just stuck a filter on the end of it.
Have you your oil cap opened or closed? I saw some videos, where they remove oil caps before doing it.
I kept the oil cap on.
Wouldn't be a good idea to leave crankcase breather lines connected? What I mean is that as far as i know there is a one way valve that should let pressure only from crankcase to the intake manifold, not in the other way. So you could also test this valve if it's not stuck open. Am I right?
You could leave them connected, but in my case I knew the PCV lines weren't an issue. I knew I was getting a leak from somewhere else. It's also not a bad idea to try and isolate the area you're testing.
injecting pressurized air that point fully tests the entire boost and vacuum system all the way to the engine? are there other leaks possible that need to be tested elsewhere?
I would suggest visual checks and trying to narrow down where you're testing, but doing it this way will test most of the system. It may miss an area that is only under pressure if a valve opens.
Thank you for the video. Solved the boost leak.
+bill mhee You got it! Glad I could help!
+bill mhee Glad it was helpful! Let me know if you have any recommendations/requests!
What size pvc plug and cap did u use. I want to do the same test on my 1.8t. Idle goes up and down and I see the boost gauge move when it’s idling up and down
I say right in the video, 2in PVC end cap, and a 1in plug. Remember that PVC is measured by the inside diameter, and what we care for this usage is outside diameter, so you have to measure it yourself.
hey so im about to do this but im worried about the pressure possibly messing with the throttle plate, is that possible?
if the throttle plate is not an issue (ive heard that it's always slightly open) then how will this pressure affect the engine if it's not running?
just wondering if there's a way for the pressure to escape other than my leak, don't want to damage anything.
As long as you don't do too much pressure you'll be fine. A stock setup boosts about 10psi, aftermarket tunes can go as high as 20 on a stock car. You won't hurt anything putting a slow amount of pressure from a bike pump.
Hey ,, I have a question , hope you can help. I have a VW Jetta TDI 2004 MK4 engine. The brakes work fine when the engine is running, never had a problem.. However, originally after turning the engine off, and after a few minutes if you press the brake pedal , I use to have some braking ability, at least a couple pumps, than it would use the "stored" vaccum that the system had from when the car was runing, and even the next day if you press the pedal before starting the engine, I would still have that nice and smoth action , as if the car wound be runing ( just for a couple pumps at least, than I would start the car, and all would be ok) I am assming that would be because of some vaccum pressure from the day before that was kept in the system , that is normal of course, But now, as soon as I turn the engine off, a few seconds later, if I use the brake pedal just once, the brake pedal becomes hard, as if I had pumped it a few times. My guess is that I have a leak ( rather large leak) in the system,, As I mentioned, it does not affect or its note noticible when I am driving, Because of that, I did not bother to look for the leak yet. I consider myself pretty savy and do most of my car maintenace, and since I have some extra time now with this COVID-19 confinement I am going to look for this leak.
So, before I start looking around I would like your professional opinion on this subject and what you would recomend I start looking for.
Much appreciated
ED
I'm no professional, but thanks for the compliment! I'm not very knowledgeable about the TDI engine, I unfortunately haven't owned one before. There should be a line that runs off the brake booster to a vacuum source on the engine, that is where I would start. My car was doing something similar when I first bought it, and that was the issue. It's like a little plastic line with a check valve on the 1.8t. Let me know if that helps or if you need more assistance!
You forgot to say that all the valves (12 intake and 8 exhaust) have to be closed so that the air does not leak.
Thanks for the video and setup. I have a compressor running very low pressure and I can hear leaking somewhere under the manifold but I cannot locate it for the life of me even with the soapy water spray. it seems to be pretty far below but not so sure I would gain anything from underneath. Any ideas appreciated. Thanks
@Sean Robinson Glad you found helpful, and I'm jealous you have a compressor. If it's under the manifold chances are it has something to do with the mess of vacuum lines and PCV lines running under there. Id remove the large black piece that is bolted to the manifold to get better access to the lines under there. Going from underneath won't be any better since it's so high up. Maybe you could see them, but it will be tough to get any hands on access. Let me know if you need any more help!
See video, here is what is leaking. Not sure what this part is called? It is the 2 Allen bolts you take off to remove bracket in front of manifold and dipstick.
m.th-cam.com/video/R3vTkMoTkFw/w-d-xo.html
Well it isn’t the injection valve I thought was leaking...I applied 12V to it while doing the air compressor test and it shuts off. Glad I didn’t replace it :) guess I will wait for my smoke machine to arrive. I can’t find anything else leaking
Well that's good that it sealed up! Smoke test would be a great thing to do as well. Let me know if you need any further assistance!
Im getting a p0171, if i wanted to smoke test it would i do the same setup? Thanks.
You can do the same type of setup, you just need a way to get smoke into the system. I've actually used a smoke machine to blow smoke in, then cap and pressurize the system to see where it pushes out. It's not perfect, but way cheaper than buying a legit machine or having a shop do it.
Was the video at the end with or without the fix?
That was with the fix.
The “hockey puck” you referred to, what is it exactly and what does it do??
@WhatJoshyDoes Tv It's a pressure regulator valve, and regulates the blowby from the engine going back into the intake. When it goes bad it doesn't regulate the amount of air traveling into your turbo inlet pipe, and can cause a rough idle because your crankcase isn't venting properly.
Only thing I'd ask to be changed would be the setup you had on the turbo inlet pipe for the Schrader valve and how you put it together
So you should plug the ccv and intake hose. Should you plug the hose connected to the air box as well?
chops Are you talking about the hard plastic hose that's for the secondary air injection pump? If so there's no need to work about that one since you're not interacting with it.
The hole that the "hockey puck" that is on top of the valve cover and hooks into the same hose as air box. I have a 01 jetta alh
+chops im not totally familiar with the ALH engine, but the line that the hockey puck hooks up to should be plugged. Let me if I csn be of anymore help!
I have a mk6 gti got it back from shop that put new engine in and it idled weird and then wouldn’t give me full power. I got 3 codes, system to lean at idle bank 1, turbo overboost condition, and intake air system leak. Does that seem like a vacuum issue?
Those could all come from vacuum leaks, but could also be other stuff. I'd start with a leak test and move from there. The lean code could be an o2 sensor, the other two could be a sensor/solenoid. But if you were to replace parts and still have a vacuum leak, you'd still get the code. Start with a vacuum least test, and if that passes move onto testing other components of the air/fuel system.
Is it normal to hear oil bubbling when I start applying pressure?
??
Yea it's possible since your PCV connects to your engine. If you're pressurizing the whole system you might hear some bubbles.
Please help! I have a 2015 jetta 1.8t. I get no boost. The internals on the turbo are good, as far as bearings. My friend insists diverter valve is bad but I get zero boost. Idk much about volkswagens or turbos. Epc and check engine light are on
The EPC could be a few different things - throttle, cruise control, or traction control. If you scan your car and find out what the CEL is, that will most likely point to why the EPC light is on and why you're getting no boost. No boost could be a lot of different issues, but the CEL is a roadmap, get the car scanned and find out why that's on before throwing parts at it.
So you have a link for this exact Schrader Valve ? I can’t find it anywhere !
I don't have a link but you can buy them at any local parts store. The one in this video came from Auto Zone.
Im having an issue where the car starts, then stalls immediately. If I am able to get it to run, it will idle well for about 30 seconds then it starts to break down, sounds like its burping up through the intake, and won't accelerate no matter if you press the gas pedal or not, would a vacuum leak cause this? prior to this issue we noticed clicking noise, which seemed to be coming from the fuel pressure regulator, not sure if it related or not.
Fuel pressure regulators normally don't click since they're operated off of vacuum. A vacuum leak could cause this issue, but it's not where I would start. I don't know your car, but the computer should do a fair amount of compensating for a vacuum leak before it won't run at all. Though it could be from a vacuum leak, it's not exactly where I'd start. It's not something small if the car isn't running. Start simple - make sure all your sensors are plugged in, and clamps around any vacuum or intake hoses are tight. If that that checks out, I'd look at your fuel system. Make sure your pump is good, fuel pressure regulator is good, and then scope our your injectors.
my cruise isnt working atm and i was told that it could be the vacuum actuator hose
That's definitely possible, though I don't have experience with that exact engine. An even easier check than this is to just visually go over the lines to check for cracks or breaks.
Great video! What was the size of the fuel pipe?
I honestly don't remember. It's not a large line, I just brought it to the auto parts store and matched the diameter. It's only a couple of bucks and any store will have it.
so i’m kinda lost here. i have a 2002 Jetta 1.8t awp. i was testing for leaks following step by step this video. the only thing i unplugged was the maf and the iat sensor on my intercooler. fixed all leaks and put everything back together and sense it’s been running real real rough, my gas gauge has stopped working, as well as my speedo. i don’t even know where to start. i hit the gas and the gas gauge drops and light comes on and starts beeping. it lacks so much power and jolts real hard on decel. it’s holding boost but struggles so hard to get there and cuts out at times. any help would be appreciated
Sounds like you've got a lot going on besides boost leaks. Is the check engine light on? What shape is your battery and alternator in? There's something going on with the wiring or electrical system based on what you're saying with the gauges. I would solve that first to make sure the car has the proper electrical power it needs before trying to address anything else.
@@StevesGaragelike a week before this i was having electrical issues where the battery kept dying and the car would die in traffic. it ended up being a fuse in the junction box connected to the battery, during that time i got the battery and alternator checked and they both passed. i’m getting a o2 sensor code but i don’t see how that could affect my gas gauge and tachometer and make it run so rough. another thing i’ve noticed since that happened is the wire that connects to alternator (looks like the ground that goes on the starter) started to gel and almost look like a yellow/brownish glue, like it was melting. thank you
@@efansalinas4589 I'd take care of the electrical issues first. it's very common to experience issues with the fuse block on top of the battery and the lead that goes to the alternator. If your electrical system isn't functioning properly it cam cause issues all over the car (like your gauges going haywire) but it will also keep you from being able to properly diagnose problems with the car running.
Melty wires can also cause a fire. Things are getting too hot and somethings not right.
@@StevesGarageit ended up being a sensor on the transmission not being plugged in. it’s the one that’s next to the axle cup.
@@efansalinas4589 Easy enough! I'd still look into the melting wire. Electrical problems like that can start fires.
So my 2003 1.8t has some issue with its boost. So it will run fine idles rough here and their not often. Then then I’m driving it I can feel the real lack of power because it’s pushing like 5-10 pounds of boost when it normally pushes 20,25 psi. But when I’m dring it and it tops out at 5psi it just sits at 3k rpm in 3rd gear making an awful sound then when I shift it back fires a little. But it does this almost every time I drive it and shift it and I’m lost on whats wrong with it and can’t find a similar issue
Sounds like you've got a lot going on here. If you're hitting 20-25lbs I assume you're tuned? What tune are you running?
The 3k limit in 3rd gear sounds like limp mode. Do you have a CEL? If you don't have a CEL, I'd scan anyway because sometimes you can have a soft code that doesn't trigger a CEL.
Your intermittent rough idle could be plugs, coils, vacuum lines, or even pcv components.
@@StevesGarage so it’s a euros customs tune and I don’t have a check engine light. And I checked the plugs and coils. Haven’t tested the vacuum lines yet nor the pcv components. But even when I give it gas it sputters and barely goes up and dies on itself. But then when I turn it back on it starts back up again and runs fine and I’m not sure what it’s doing that for.
@@god-jy1sr If the plugs and coils are good I'd move to check vac lines/hoses, PCV, and your fuel system. With it running like that I'm surprised it doesn't have a check engine light. It's not easy to diagnose stuff over a comment section like this, but I'm hoping I can help you get it back on track!
@@StevesGarage well I figured it out after it wouldn’t start so the whole time it was a fuel issue. So what happened was my fuel pump died on me so it wouldn’t start.
@@god-jy1sr Ahhh that'll do it too. Glad you figured it out!
I'm new to the modded 1.8t scene and I have just purchased a 2000 golf mk4 turbo. It is on a stage 2 tune by urotuning. It's running a k03s on 23 lbs boost with a front mount intercooler and 3 inch turbo back with cat delete. It currently has NGK Laser platnium plugs, stock coil and fuel pump and injectors as well. I'm running into an issue that doesn't happen all the time mainly in first and second gear where the boost will get to around 15 lbs and drop to 5 and then trys to surge back up. Where should I start troubleshooting the issue
Welcome to the club! 1.8t's can be a ton of fun. There are definitely a few things that could be going on here. N75 valve could be bad, or need to be upgraded. That controls how much boost the turbo can make. The N249 valve can also be bad, which controls the diverter valve. In addition to those two sensors, there's a lot of other things that can cause the boost fluctuation like bad vacuum lines, diverter valve, wastegate issue, etc. If I were you, I'd get a VAGCOM and get the car scanned. That way you can see what all the systems are doing to see what is failing. If I'm not mistaken doesn't a stage two need an upgraded FPR? I'm not that familiar with stage two tunes since I haven't gone that far yet.
Stock injectors & fuel pump?
My buddy has an 03 1.8T. He's replaced the N75 and most of the boost hoses. However it will only build to 5 psi, then we took the wastegate hose off and it built up to 10psi but would not go any higher. Where should would we looked next? We also attempted to readjust the wastegate but no luck on that.
You say it boosts around 10psi with it disconnected. If it's a stock tune, thats about all it should be boosting. When you disconnected it, I assume you disconnected the N75 valve form controlling the wastegate? If that's the case, it sounds like your N75 may not be good, or you have it hooked up wrong? It could also be FPR hoses or EGR hoses like my video above.
I would be certain you have zero boost leaks before you go chasing valves and adjusting the wastegate. Because all of that means nothing if you still have a leak somewhere.
@@StevesGarage gotcha, alright thanks man!
@@fiestatacotime4124 No worries! Hope it helps, and comment if you have any more trouble with it and want to keep bouncing ideas off.
@@StevesGarage yea before the car was pushing 15 pounds and about 18 on a really cold day until water blew up the engine (went through a puddle) and he swapped engines which came with a different turbo but his old one used to fall in boost in 4th and 5th
@@StevesGarage so probably wasn't a stock tune
i have a 2.0L i4 sohc jetta trendline engine. the year is 2012
My mk4 gives a puff of blue smoke if it give it more than 10psi of boost. If I dont spool up the turbo no smoke also notice the rubber line going to waste gate has oil everywhere any ideas
So I don't have experience with a turbo blowing, but that's what it sounds like to me. Do you hear a buzzing noise under boost? How many miles are on the car, and are you pushing more than stock boost levels?
Rough idle at low rpm until at operating temp. 2014 Passat TSI! Please help
Sounds to be like something with a vacuum line, or other rubber hose. It could even be a break in the intake hose post MAF letting in un-metered air. Typically something that goes away after the car warms up means the break is expanding when hot causing the issue to stop. I would do a leak down test like in this video, or another method where you take something like starter fluid and spray around lines and hoses to see if the idle changes.
We have 1.8t 2000 passat and I too diverter valve off to drill some holes and when I took it off about a 1/4 cup of oil fell all over my face same with the corner hose leading to intercooler not as much oil though....it used to smoke all of the oil in diverter valve used to be pushing the oil into the intake. The oil has caused some gaps in the diverter valve seal so now I have a boost leak in it....it's another spot to check for a leak
Sounds like you might need to check on your PCV system. You may have an issue with your check valve, or a worse problem with excessive blowby from the engine.
Can you please tell me what those parts are call that are on the air box hose or the part numbers
There's a lot of stuff coming off the turbo inlet pipe, so I'm not sure what exact parts you're wondering about. The diverter valve and hockey puck are up there, along with other vacuum lines, and the N75 valve.
@@StevesGarage thanks
got a mk4 1.8t, raced a camero yesterday and as soon as I shifted to 3rd gear i went from 20psi to 2 psi. and it holds 2 psi now in every gear, I dont hear any boost leaks and havent tested it. dont know if I should test it or not because I am getting some boost? thoughts?
If you don't have a check engine light, I would check your wastegate is functioning properly. A bad solenoid stopping boost from building should give you a CEL, and I believe limp mode is 4 or 5psi, so that sounds like a mechanical failure with boost that low. I'd also assume you'd hear a boost leak bad enough to only build 2psi of boost, BUT, it might be worth a leak down test like in the video just to make sure you don't have any issues.
@@StevesGarage check engine light came on the next day, p0010. says its a vvt solenoid
@@OriginalLofiBeats Did you recently replace your timing belt? Is it also possible that your cam chain tensioner is bad? That's not a code I'm familiar with, so I'm just going off a quick google search.
@@StevesGarage took it to the shop, at first glance they thought it was the vvt solenoid or the timing chain tensioner, turns out it was a fuse the went to a few sensors related to timing, i think it was fuse 32
@@OriginalLofiBeats In the words of one of my coworkers, "I love easy problems". It's easy to go to the wort thing immediately (even I did) when in reality sometimes it's something so simple.
I have a whistling kinda noise coming from my 1.8t mk4 but i dont know if it is a leak or a turbo problem... need help asap as its killing me this noise
A failed turbo typically sounds more like whine than a whistle. It's usually fairly constant, and then intensifies on acceleration. You'll also have a lack of power (but that could occur from a boost leak as well). Did you perform the boost leak test? The biggest thing that could signify a failed turbo besides the noise and lack of power is burning oil. Let me know if there's anything else I can do to help!
@@StevesGarage i can try send you a video to show you?
Absolutely! If you have an Instagram you can contact me there, or link me a video!
@@StevesGarage I I've been having the same problem , did you know what it was?
When I pump mine up I hear what sounds like the oil bubbling...any idea what that might be...PS thanks for the vid...Great job
Thank you! I'm not sure what the bubbling would be, I heard only air passing. Is you PCV system worn out? Maybe you have a lot of oil in the PCV lines thats moving around?
I got same kind of oil / water bubbling sound eminating from somewhere around the motor. Have no idea whats causing it.
@ever figure it out???
ever figure it out ??
@@brendanyurga5452 not sure what caused it. Had a small leak in turbo boost pipe but guessing it was unrelated. Sold it a few years back.
Need help my 1.8t beetle throws code p2279 leak in intake air system
I'd check all your PCV hoses, intercooler piping, and vacuum lines. Start up top by the diverter valve with the vac lines. I've replaced all those lines, and the EGR lines in front of the intake manifold because of cracks or breaks.
@@StevesGarage thank you :)
@@1mad_bug No problem! I hope it helps. Let me know if you have any other questions or if you find what your issue was.
Whoa where did u clip that intro from. The song that is
I filmed the intro itself, and the music is from the TH-cam library. I'm glad you like it! I've been going back and forth if I want to keep using it or not because I'm not sure how much people like it.
Is the process the same on an Audi 2.0t a3 8p?
+Melvin Rubio Yes it should be almost identical. There are subtle differences between the different engine sizes, and Audi vs VW, but the basic concept is the same. Let me know if you have questions or need any assistance!
Hi..where do i buy the cap?thanks
Any home improvement store or hardware store should have any size cap you need.
@@StevesGarage thanks!!!
Do you have a video on replacing those hoses?
Eric Ver Linden The boost hoses? No, I only have a video for replacing the PCV hoses. Do you have a question about a specific hose? I might be able to help you out.
Steve's Garage I meant the fuel pressure regulator and EGR lines that you replaced.
Eric Ver Linden ohhh ok. No I don't have a video for that. The fuel pressure line I just bought a rubber hose from AutoZone, that was a simple replacement. The EGR hoses were tough to film so I didn't. Originally I tried to DIY the hoses, but they're odd sized, so it didn't work. I ended up buying the entire replacement, which was about $150 from ECS. Here's the link for the part I bought www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/vacuum-pipes-set-egr-valve/06a145691cb/?gclid=CjwKCAjwo87YBRBgEiwAI1LkqR9Odz7IXRtY7P1acdJ-qBVxNDOC-gT-YwnVhZMAZfmxZIS4JBfJLxoCqAcQAvD_BwE
Replacing the whole assembly wasn't bad, mostly disconnecting and reconnecting hoses. You could delete the whole thing, but I also tried that and my car ran like garbage.
CAN U HELP ME WITH MY GLI JETTA MK4
I can try. What's wrong with it?
get this video of my screen.. NOW !
I can hear my turbo spool but then I get a sound much like white noise and it feels like there is almost zero boost.
Definitely sounds like a boost leak. Do the test to see if you can find the leak!
@@StevesGarage I get that you block off the hockey puck hole on the TIP but do you need to block up the pipe leading to the hockey puck from the engine as well?
@@Raouldip No need to block that off!
@@StevesGarage thanks I did this a while ago I found two leaks, the one was on the bottom of the pipe leading from the charge pipe to the DV. The tear was the size of the palm of my hand. 3 mechanics could not find it!
@@Raouldip Glad you found it and figured it out!
hey, how to check vacuum lines?
This method should work for vacuum lines as well, but you can also visually inspect lines. Check for cracks and dry rotting.
@@StevesGarage It is also good for check exhaust manifold casket and turbine tightness? Throlle must be open during test?
@@mistermvpvip This won't check your turbo or exhaust system. Best way to check your turbo is to visually inspect and move the turbine.
@@StevesGarage Ok, thanks for help!
Isn't that technically a vacuum leak since it's after the throttle body/inside the intake manifold?
+MrBananaPsycho I guess technically yes. Before testing I had assumed it was a boost leak, but after testing found it was vacuum lines. Either way, I was able to diagnose and fix the issue so it's all good!
@@StevesGarage Glad to hear that man :)! Actually solving the issue is what matters at the end anyways
What if you only have a leak while the car is warm
+Zilla geddon that means something is probably expanding when hot and causing a hole. Most likely a rubber line/hose causing the problem. I'd wait for the car to warm up when the issue happens, and then do this test.
@@StevesGarage that's what I figured. Thanks man. Great vids BTW. Your setup worked perfect.
+Zilla geddon Thank you! Glad I could help. I definitely have more to post, just been a bit busy.
My fuel pressure regulator hose has been disconnected from the other side, where does it go?
Picture: drive.google.com/open?id=1KIDxjHrSPGj5ZhtrIEep2g3U5TMaUuiU
@Jayden Anthony it runs to the intake manifold. On the bottom right in front of where the FPR is, you should see a little nipple that it connects to.
So, your boost leak was a vacuum leak, after all
+Gábor Bérczi Technically yes. But being that I had a lack of boost and not an issue with how the car ran, I had assumed it was a boost leak. Either way this eaay tool helped me diagnose and fix the issue.
You forgot to say that all the valves (12 intake and 8 exhaust) have to be closed so that the air does not leak.
Does that matter if the goal is a test for vacuum hoses? What I'm doing here is the same idea as a smoke test to find leaks in hoses, not really an engine leakdown/compression type test.
@@StevesGarage It seems to me that if the valves are not closed, it loses tightness. If the exhaust valves are open, air enters the combustion chamber, although the probability of it just remaining in the overlap position is low. (overlap position, beginning of opening of intake valves before completely closing the exhaust valves) Typical in 1.8t vvt
@@alejandrodibenedetto66 I don't think it really matters if the goal is to test vacuum lines. I found the leak in my system without any concern of the valve location. Of course if your goal is to check the valves and cylinders, that's a different story.