1000 hp compound build I think would be pretty popular among a lot of folks. Great work and content as always. That's solid business to help others benefit from your experience and only have to buy/build once. Great job as always!
Great job, an Great content. It's your genuineness in the video an in your builds in general that say alot about your character. I hopefully plan to do work with you soon. Keep up the great work.
Every time you build an engine, I cant help but think back to the day at DPP where you had that MassiveBoom boom,....Wish you nothing but the best in this endeavor!
As much brake clean as im sure ya go through you outta check into one of them steel cans you pour your brake clean into from a drum and hook up an air chuck from your compressor too pressurize it... i think their like 50-60 dollars on Amazon but their pretty sweet and you can swap out the tips on em... i used too use one at work cause it was big company and i guess they dont like big company's using cases of it and i thought it was kinda stupid at first but after using em their awesome & alot cheaper in the long run i guess... I must say while ya i dont own a cummings i still love your videos and maybe oneday i can do similar with duramax or atleast its wishful thinking anyways... lol
Did you fully torque the rear cover without the oil pan on? I will be rebuilding my 5.9 very soon. I’ve built multiple gas engines but never a Cummins. Just want make sure I am doing it correct in a few weeks.
I have a question, do you need to plug one of oil galleys on the mains? I’m piecing together a 5.9 CR and the mains on the block (not the caps) have two holes, one of which is covered by the bearings.
Josh, Im building a compound kit for my 08 3500. Ive always built my hot pipe with pie cuts . Is there a easier alternative that's cost efficient to mate my stock vgt to a s400?
My machinist advised me that he was to do them in the block instead of the head because the block would be less likely to warp under high egts unlike the head, I would suppose if you properly torqued & hot retorqued your head studs you should be fine with either way It's probably just easier to put the head on the machine and machine the rings.
It is a lot stronger to do it part in the head and part in the block but the machining of both has to be spot on or you will have trouble because of alignment issues. It’s actually pretty difficult to get it in both and have it perfect so far all but the most extreme jobs one or the other will do the trick. That being said I prefer to groove the head as it has only compressive stress but the block has a lot of tensile stress from the studs trying to rip the deck off so anything to make it easier on the block helps.
Your WIFI network is called Drug Money? HAHA that's hilarious! But serious question, did you use stock main bolts? Are the regular ARP standard length 12mm studs a decent upgrade?
Hell Yeah Brother 🇺🇸🦅
1000 hp compound build I think would be pretty popular among a lot of folks. Great work and content as always. That's solid business to help others benefit from your experience and only have to buy/build once. Great job as always!
Pumpin out the vids lately. What's up with the race truck and fam? Haven't seen the little man in a long while! 🤙
Great job, an Great content. It's your genuineness in the video an in your builds in general that say alot about your character. I hopefully plan to do work with you soon. Keep up the great work.
Every time you build an engine, I cant help but think back to the day at DPP where you had that MassiveBoom boom,....Wish you nothing but the best in this endeavor!
Thanks for the content, can’t wait to see it run. Great paint job!!
I know there's the youtube effect, but you really make it look easy.
Great video! Cannot wait to see it running
Nice looking fab work on the compounds. You have some great content I hope your channel blows up soon.
I like that your work cool well organized 👍
Nice work man 👌🏻
I love building engines.
Oh phuk yeah Bud!
Common rail….. bringing you 1500hp daily’s daily!! Hard to believe I won a couple of dyno events 20 years ago with 550-650rwhp.
👍💪
As much brake clean as im sure ya go through you outta check into one of them steel cans you pour your brake clean into from a drum and hook up an air chuck from your compressor too pressurize it... i think their like 50-60 dollars on Amazon but their pretty sweet and you can swap out the tips on em... i used too use one at work cause it was big company and i guess they dont like big company's using cases of it and i thought it was kinda stupid at first but after using em their awesome & alot cheaper in the long run i guess...
I must say while ya i dont own a cummings i still love your videos and maybe oneday i can do similar with duramax or atleast its wishful thinking anyways... lol
Did you fully torque the rear cover without the oil pan on? I will be rebuilding my 5.9 very soon. I’ve built multiple gas engines but never a Cummins. Just want make sure I am doing it correct in a few weeks.
I always torque the rear seal plate using the seal installer ring to hold it centered on the crank.
I have a question, do you need to plug one of oil galleys on the mains? I’m piecing together a 5.9 CR and the mains on the block (not the caps) have two holes, one of which is covered by the bearings.
No just make sure the saddle jets are plugged. They are plugged from the factory
Josh, Im building a compound kit for my 08 3500. Ive always built my hot pipe with pie cuts . Is there a easier alternative that's cost efficient to mate my stock vgt to a s400?
Tight radius bends from stainless bros
We got a game plan for UCC?
Where's the bougey music?
Can this motor fit in your Dodge truck ?? CUMMINS VTA 903 600 HP DIESEL ENGINE
Whats the benefits or differences with fire ring in the head only, 50/50,
My machinist advised me that he was to do them in the block instead of the head because the block would be less likely to warp under high egts unlike the head, I would suppose if you properly torqued & hot retorqued your head studs you should be fine with either way It's probably just easier to put the head on the machine and machine the rings.
It is a lot stronger to do it part in the head and part in the block but the machining of both has to be spot on or you will have trouble because of alignment issues. It’s actually pretty difficult to get it in both and have it perfect so far all but the most extreme jobs one or the other will do the trick. That being said I prefer to groove the head as it has only compressive stress but the block has a lot of tensile stress from the studs trying to rip the deck off so anything to make it easier on the block helps.
@@bcbloc02 Industrial injection suggested part in the head and block is overkill if it's under 1500hp
What engine stands do you use?
Harbor freight 1 ton
I'm wanting to build my 03 to a 1k horse how can I get ahold of you?
Your WIFI network is called Drug Money? HAHA that's hilarious! But serious question, did you use stock main bolts? Are the regular ARP standard length 12mm studs a decent upgrade?
Depends on the rpm range
what's a ballpark price to rebuild my 5.9 like this one for 1000hp?
12-15k
@Horsetorques Diesel is that just the motor or is that to remove the old and install the new motor?
@@diamondjosh1225 just the engine r and r is more
How much a rebuild like this go for (ball park figure)
12-15k
We’re are you located?
Sw VA
Boing🥒
$15k to scare off the tire kickers.....
The serious ones know what time and parts cost and will stay in the conversation.