Thanks for reminding me about the rtv on the wiring...that is so important and definitely overlooked! I also had another fellow mention to me, regarding the Lightning 80mm air meter, i think we use 4 wires to the sensor, but the two wire holes on each end of the 6 wire sensor plug are open to let moisture in, and should be plugged with rtv as well. It's good to have more than one set of eyes on a project! Thank you for watching and sharing information. So greatly appreciated!!👍👍
Nice fitment on your gauge bezel and gauges! Bondoglass works great, with proper prep, for a permanent placement, but that can get messy. Nice job finding an alternative way to hold it altogether. Seal up any grommet punctures with some RTV. The smallest amount of water will follow any wires through and wreak havoc on any electrical in the way. Especially the PCM. 😬 🤔 I can see your reasoning on your oil temp sensor placement. My Bill Miller aluminum rods are the only aluminum rods(as far as I know and at the time) that claim to be streetable. Engine oil operating temp of 195° must be reached first.....the chicken or the egg scenario came in to play. I used an OEM oil cooler that installed between the block and oil filter. Its held in place by a one piece "pass through" threaded tube. I didn't thrust another threaded nut to hold down the "sandwich plate". If you change your own oil, then you know how tight an oil filter can get after it's 3k mile life interval. Anyway, the OEM cooler wasn't as robust as that Glow Shift piece so I chose not to tap in there at the time. The sending unit provision worked for me. I'm curious to see any spikes of oil temp in my data logging. Thanks for the idea of that. If you change your own
Great job on the gauge bezel, Todd. Very creative. Nothing wrong with making your own stuff. I noticed you have some burnt lights on your cluster. some led will fix that.
Hey Benny! Good eye! I have one bulb for sure out on the bottom left. I like to be able to dim my gauges, so not sure if an LED would work unless they have dimable mini bulbs...worth a look! I also wish I looked for green gauges to match the rest on the gauges...but I'm still happy with the install. Thanks for watching and have an awesome weekend!!👍👍
Hello @elementl1166! I can't believe I've waited until the last few years to install oil temp gauges on my cars. Lots of newer cars won't let a car "perform" until oil is up to operating temperature. I'm not surprised to hear your Audi has it. S4!...Nice car!!! Thanks for watching!!👍👍
I've been eying up your smaller diameter distributor as well. If I go to a different modified intake on the 86, and need a little extra room, I will likely be giving you a call. I'll go check out your site so I'm up to date! Thanks!!
Yes, I am using a full size filter with room to spare. It's interesting you mentioned that. Last week I was picking up an oil filter for a 2.0L Mitsubishi Lancer. When the fellow placed the filter on the counter, I said.. "that's it?" It looked small. He said, If you think that's bad, then he brought out an oil filter for a GM 5.3/6.0L LS engine. It was no bigger. (There may have been a longer version available). If a guy was forced to run a smaller filter, I think for the extra $5-$10, I would be changing it half way between oil changes. I can't see how Today's tiny filters can do a good job when it comes to some manufacturers recommend 4000-5000 mile oil changes. Thanks again for watching!👍👍
@@306foxbody1 there ya go! I cut my teeth with GM, back in 2000, at a Cadillac dealership. They also apls Hummer and Saab. I saw engines being torture tested! The Northstar, LS 6.0L, EcoBoost 2.0's, and the Saab 4cyl's. The algorithmic oil change interval was, on average, once a year. Some folks were going 15k miles between oil changes. I personally must've replaced 100 engines in the 2 years u worked for them before changing to FoMoCo. Clogged filters, sludge, excessive oil consumption were the causes of the majority. They all ran oil filters smaller than the Ford 400 size oil filter used on the V6 engines. The full size, 1A, used on the 5.0 and 5.8 Windsor engines is huge in comparison to the LS! Ford uses an 820s, I believe, on the 4.6, 5.4, and 6.8 with or without an oil cooler, and its half the size of the 1A. Smaller filters and higher oil pressures vs. longer intervals.....😬😬😬😬
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 84 วันนี้!! คู่เอก "ก้องศึก vs เมืองไทย"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3kuzsAIDf1c/mqdefault.jpg)
EXCELLENT work on the bezel and gauges! Good explanation on the oil temp gauge too!
Thanks OG!! Have a great weekend brother!!!👍👍
Thanks for reminding me about the rtv on the wiring...that is so important and definitely overlooked! I also had another fellow mention to me, regarding the Lightning 80mm air meter, i think we use 4 wires to the sensor, but the two wire holes on each end of the 6 wire sensor plug are open to let moisture in, and should be plugged with rtv as well. It's good to have more than one set of eyes on a project! Thank you for watching and sharing information. So greatly appreciated!!👍👍
Great video sir. I love seeing custom built solutions to our problems. 👍
Hello @thefoxlife3431! I really enjoy trying to make my own parts. Thanks so much for watching!!👍👍
Nice fitment on your gauge bezel and gauges! Bondoglass works great, with proper prep, for a permanent placement, but that can get messy. Nice job finding an alternative way to hold it altogether. Seal up any grommet punctures with some RTV. The smallest amount of water will follow any wires through and wreak havoc on any electrical in the way. Especially the PCM. 😬
🤔 I can see your reasoning on your oil temp sensor placement. My Bill Miller aluminum rods are the only aluminum rods(as far as I know and at the time) that claim to be streetable. Engine oil operating temp of 195° must be reached first.....the chicken or the egg scenario came in to play.
I used an OEM oil cooler that installed between the block and oil filter. Its held in place by a one piece "pass through" threaded tube. I didn't thrust another threaded nut to hold down the "sandwich plate". If you change your own oil, then you know how tight an oil filter can get after it's 3k mile life interval. Anyway, the OEM cooler wasn't as robust as that Glow Shift piece so I chose not to tap in there at the time. The sending unit provision worked for me. I'm curious to see any spikes of oil temp in my data logging. Thanks for the idea of that.
If you change your own
Great job on the gauge bezel, Todd. Very creative. Nothing wrong with making your own stuff. I noticed you have some burnt lights on your cluster. some led will fix that.
Hey Benny! Good eye! I have one bulb for sure out on the bottom left. I like to be able to dim my gauges, so not sure if an LED would work unless they have dimable mini bulbs...worth a look! I also wish I looked for green gauges to match the rest on the gauges...but I'm still happy with the install. Thanks for watching and have an awesome weekend!!👍👍
Awesome, that bezel came out really slick! Appreciate the info about the oil temp gauge too.
Man that really turned out nice Todd, looks like a factory installed option!
I'm actually surprised it turned out as well as it did for using a license plate bracket! Lol Thanks for watching!!👍👍
Such a clean Saleen. Oil temp is nice to have - factory gauge on my ‘01 Audi S4 believe it or not.
Hello @elementl1166! I can't believe I've waited until the last few years to install oil temp gauges on my cars. Lots of newer cars won't let a car "perform" until oil is up to operating temperature. I'm not surprised to hear your Audi has it. S4!...Nice car!!! Thanks for watching!!👍👍
You should have called me for a couple of my vent gauge mounts and put them right in the AC vents!
Hey Matthew, I thought you only had them for Foxbody! I'll have to check them out. At least my bezel is 100% reversible! Lol Thanks!!
@@306foxbody1 I have solutions for mustangs from 1987-2014. The SN95 setup looks really good too!
I've been eying up your smaller diameter distributor as well. If I go to a different modified intake on the 86, and need a little extra room, I will likely be giving you a call. I'll go check out your site so I'm up to date! Thanks!!
@@306foxbody1 you have my number if you need me to hook you up!
Are you still able to run a full size oil filter?
Yes, I am using a full size filter with room to spare. It's interesting you mentioned that. Last week I was picking up an oil filter for a 2.0L Mitsubishi Lancer. When the fellow placed the filter on the counter, I said.. "that's it?" It looked small. He said, If you think that's bad, then he brought out an oil filter for a GM 5.3/6.0L LS engine. It was no bigger. (There may have been a longer version available). If a guy was forced to run a smaller filter, I think for the extra $5-$10, I would be changing it half way between oil changes. I can't see how Today's tiny filters can do a good job when it comes to some manufacturers recommend 4000-5000 mile oil changes. Thanks again for watching!👍👍
@@306foxbody1 there ya go!
I cut my teeth with GM, back in 2000, at a Cadillac dealership. They also apls Hummer and Saab. I saw engines being torture tested! The Northstar, LS 6.0L, EcoBoost 2.0's, and the Saab 4cyl's. The algorithmic oil change interval was, on average, once a year. Some folks were going 15k miles between oil changes. I personally must've replaced 100 engines in the 2 years u worked for them before changing to FoMoCo. Clogged filters, sludge, excessive oil consumption were the causes of the majority. They all ran oil filters smaller than the Ford 400 size oil filter used on the V6 engines.
The full size, 1A, used on the 5.0 and 5.8 Windsor engines is huge in comparison to the LS! Ford uses an 820s, I believe, on the 4.6, 5.4, and 6.8 with or without an oil cooler, and its half the size of the 1A. Smaller filters and higher oil pressures vs. longer intervals.....😬😬😬😬