Hope you enjoyed the video. Have you ever wanted to create your dream home but didn't know where to start? Register for my free masterclass on creating your dream home here: www.seejanedrillcourse.com/register-home-masterclass
Folks, I've been a contractor for 30 years. This woman knows her stuff, and knows how to teach her stuff. Someone needs to give her a TV show. Puts those fake HGTV "contractors" to shame. Keep up the good work, Leah!
By far the best explanation of anything on TH-cam. Get's to the point immediately, clear, lucid and targeted at exactly what you need to know. As a vocational education teacher for many years, I'm just so impressed.
I never commented on a video but after watching a few of her videos I had to let this lady know she is amazing Love her videos Simple , detailed and she inspires you to try. You should have your own tv show . Thank you for all your help
You are a fantastic public speaker! Thank you for being so clear, concise, and conversational while informing. I've been doing so much research on how to rebuild my home after flood damage, and your video was more helpful than most.
What a lovely personality AND she knows her sh#t. She has a way of explaining stuff for the "do it yourselfers" while putting on a contractors master class all at the same time.
Hi Leah, this is my first time watching one of your videos and I must say, You've done an outstanding job at explaining the difference of dyrwall paper tape vs mesh. I stumbled upon your video while searching something else and was wicked happy to I did. When helping others with DIY Home Improvements ( I love to tinker)... I have always explained that mesh tape was really for small area damaged wall repair where it just isn't reasonable to cut a new piece of drywall, fit it in and tape. I also wanted to mention, although this video is not intended to teach folks how to tape joints etc... I do wish to say that floating over paper tape is easier and leaves for much "finish" work. I still use a wet sponge rather than dry sanding ...but that is my preference. Thanks again!
This is the kind of friend I need in my life all the time. Wish I had found a channel this easy to understand a lot sooner than I did, some of my DIY attempts may have come out a lot less... crappy.
Great advice ! Retired now, but many years as painter and paper hanger. So most of my drywall was in repairs before advancing to the reason I was hired. Although on occasion. Smaller sheetrock jobs did come my way. While in doing so. I came up with a system of wetting the paper tape before applying to adhere coat. Barely moistened, ( misted --- too much H2O wasn't good ) . It seemed to allow the finish coats to be stronger. The dry paper did not absorb the moisture from the mud too fast. Kind of like moistening say brick work before mortar applied. Slowing drying actually increases bond. Well my experience anyway... Just thought I would share that info. Again...love Her videos.... pros & cons are always a good place to look.
Love seeing another woman who loves her tools! Thanks Leah. I’m actually trying a new. Kind of tape called Fibafuse, which can be used in taping machines. It’s like the Interfacing used in sewing that you line things like collars with. Would like to see what you think of it.
I like to use mesh tape on small repairs and butt joints because if you sand it just short of exposing the mesh pattern, it sits flatter than paper tape, since the paper requires mud on the bottom to adhere and on the top to hide the edges. Mesh is also great for fixing persistent cracks that might cause paper to peel; sometimes, I'll put one piece of mesh on, cover it with Elmer's glue or thick paint, than just enough mud to hide it, leaving a more flexible patch than would be possible with paper and mud. It's also good for wet areas.
Leah, thank you. Your voice is comforting when anxious about my project and simple, yet thorough explanations have been so helpful in my adventures in drywall.
I’m doing my own drywall and worked construction since 14 and now appreciate the ability of drywall people so much more. Yall aren’t given the credit due because I am tired after mixing and applying one pan of mud
Just a homeowner who's built an addition and such. Tried paper tape early on and switched to mesh and never looked back. Unless very careful, paper tape can bubble and wrinkle, also more steps. Mesh is quick and forgiving, plus stronger.
Leah, I adore you! You’re the best TH-cam teacher! I love how you explain things succinctly and answer those questions that are wondered. God Bless you!
Every time I finish watching one of your videos, I say to myself "I love this woman". lol Thanks so much and the comments are always so helpful too! :)
Marianne Hartsfield : She remains me of a teacher I had in college. He was like Jane who went through the subject thoroughly, explaining it in such detail the intricacies. I also appreciate her explanations. She has the gift to teach!
Fibafuse brand makes a tape that I believe is only sold at Lowe's, it's kind of a hybrid between paper and mesh, it's like paper-fiber. Best product I have ever used for doing seams.
I agree. Couple of things though. Generally, mesh-taped joints are stronger and less prone to cracking compared to paper ones, especially in areas of stress, such as above door jambs and windows. Also, for paper tape you must use all-purpose non-setting compound, which takes longer to dry. For mesh tape you can use 45 or 90-minute mud, so the time between the coats is shorter. When time is the factor, mesh is the way to go, especially on smaller projects when things need to be done overnight.
"Generally, mesh-taped joints are stronger and less prone to cracking compared to paper ones" That is 100% Bullshit. I also use hot mud for my pre-fill and paper taping and it works fine.
So glad I stumble upon your page. Just moved into our home and have quite a few big projects for us to complete since my husband and I… 1 are not handy people… 2 never completed one diy project… 3 are on a tight budget. Just watched your wall/ceiling crack video before this one and it has help us what to look for as far as materials, tools and steps on fixing it. Thank you!
I do mainly repairs, if I did production work it would be paper tape, but on repairs I use the ultra thin mesh tape, almost never see the mesh, it lays down nicely and holds the seams together, makes for a quicker job, and less coats...but I agree with most of what you say.. good vid!
Leah, I can't thank you enough for making these videos. Your vast knowledge of so many home repair areas, your thorough explanations, and your straightforward, friendly demeanor have taught me more than any other information source. DIY home improvement isn't at all as scary as I thought - thanks to you! Keep up the great work!
Seriously glad that TH-cam introduced your video's to me when I first started out watching videos, you are amongst my first subscriptions. I wafted away probably for several years then all of a sudden one of your video's appeared with your face as the thumbnail and recognised you immediately & am happy to have you back as my son's flat is in need of some repairs prior to decorating and almost similar to my home. Glad to see you back Jane!👍😁😀
Mesh tape in tapered seams, paper tape in butt seams and corners. I've been doing it that way for 25+ years and the only time either one has failed is because of A: water damage or B: operator error (air bubble under paper, puckered tape, etc.)
In New Zealand, Paper Tape is always used for joins and corners. Mesh Tape is only used for repairing a Gib Board (Plaster Board) hole, crack , or damage. Most holes are cut out and a piece inserted into hole behind Gib Board to support a new piece in the hole area cut out. The Gib Board paper at the edge of the hole is usually torn off away from the edge and Mesh Tape placed around the gap of the (board piece) filled hole. Removing the Gib Board paper from the edge of the hole area prevents bubbles and problems when you use Mesh and Mud to repair. Yes, there are some different techniques used in my country by some different Dry Wall workers, but the best jobs I have seen follow these basics that I have mentioned for a far better finish and quality look about it.
Ms. Leah, great description of the two types! I’ve used both over the years and found mesh to be more helpful in repairing long cracks in flat ceilings of our old home. The cracks were less likely to return. Since then, I’ve learned the pros use caulking lol.
Some mesh tape warns against using it w/ drywall compound. It says to use it only w/ setting compound. I've had the mesh tape actually split right along the joint on a flat wall. It's a hairline crack that is visible.
I love you Leah! You are my go to when I'm needing to do DIY and learn things. I did fall in love with mesh tape when I had vertical floor to ceiling stress cracks in two rooms and had fixed 3 times (over several years) to no avail (the cracks always came back). I went and got some mesh tape and cut apx 1/4" deep into sheetrock and apx width of the tape. I put some mud, then mesh, dry, another layer of mud and mesh, dry and then finished it off. It's been over 20 years and those stress cracks have never come back. Keep up the great videos.
I have favored the paper tape mostly, and it has been in my last 3 remodels. Not because of cost, but I liked it because I just found it much easier to work with. Glad you posted this vid. It will for sure help someone in the future!
I just watched some of your videos. I owned a few bikes in my day and your videos make me miss the experience of riding down quite country roads. Thanks for the trip down memory lane.
Awww heck! :-D Well thanks for taking a peek at my goofy channel. hahaha! I had a heap of home remodeling vids up till about 2 years ago. Then when I got out of "house flipping" I deleted them all. ( In the end I lost more money than I made after all the expenses in that business! I think I paid myself about $3/hr working for myself! hahahaa! ) Hope you have a blessed week.
Great video. I've seen joint failures with both types of tape, but I've never seen paper tape split in the middle. I thought the fiberglass tape would be stronger, but a wall I did in my parents' house with fiberglass tape split on the drywall seams 10 years later. It's been paper tape ever since.
If you have drywallers who did a crappy job and leave wide gaps then leave and go off to another job and you come in to tape said crap job, you will have to use mesh tape. Paper tape over any wider gap will push out thus making sanding next to impossible. Mesh tape is stronger and far more flexible over any wider gap or hole than paper. The holes in the mesh are designed to allow the mud to be pushed through and mushroom out behind the drywall to create strength and rigidity. Mold resistant mesh tape is also better to use in damp areas like washrooms and laundry rooms, were as paper tape will have better chance of becoming moldy. Paper tape is the best on most properly boarded rooms.
I'd agree with most of your comment except 2: Mesh tape is not stronger:. It's just not, that's why you MUST use hot mud with mesh tape. I agree that mesh tape may contribute to a stronger system if you have large gaps and you don't prefill. The proper sequence is to prefill large gaps with hot mud, then tape. That will result in a stronger system. The biggest mistake I see people make is to all purpose with mesh tape:. Recipe for failure.
You are delightful to watch, well-paced and informative. I'm so glad to have found your channel. I've been a DIYer for 12 years, and your videos are plugging holes in my knowledge I didn't even know I had. I may just complete a few projects on which I've been stuck for ages...thanks!!
I use mesh for everything except inside corners. Inside corners turn out super nice and quick with paper. I use mesh for the seams so I can press hot mud through the tape into the gaps and then smooth it out. It is super strong that way...
Love your site, very well explained and at a speed I can keep up with. I recently did a small amount of dry walling so I looked at every clip I could find on TH-cam. One plaster I trusted agreed with you, in that, he very rarely used mesh. His reasoning was..1. paper tape is much stronger than mesh, it doesn't deform when stretched, making it better for the majority butt joints. 2. If you use mesh on internal angles (corners) when running your plasterers knife/blade down the joint, the tip of the tool is likely to catch every little square making it almost impossible to get a good edge. I used paper on all joints and metal backed paper on external corners, and with quite a bit of sanding, the job looks great, much better than I ever believed I could do. I did use your advice on building/erecting the timber frame, Big thank you.
She falsely presented this. Mesh tape will lose its stckyness in hot dry temps over time... BUT this only means you can then just use it like paper tape.
Leah I have only seen a few of your videos and have already learned a very important lesson from you. If I listen and watch your videos, I better be ready to watch and listen carefully because you never say anything that isn't important to the subject at hand. I am 66 y/o and would love to come and sit down and listen to you talk. Just like this short video on paper vs mesh tape. I never knew that about tape. It was just awesome. Keep up the great work!
Love it. I just want to add a few things: When one says it is cheaper, and works better in production tools, one might think it was some kind of cheap out. I come from boatbuilding and I thought paper tape was ridiculous, fiberglass had to be better, but now I use paper all the time. It is stronger than mesh tape, after all drywall is paper all over. And with paper tape you get full contact not a lot of areas where there is nothing. Mesh is easier to set in the gutters, but the hard par for beginners are the inside corners, and it is all too easy to cut the strands in mesh tape with a knife when laying in the compound as a beginner. With paper, one gets a little support with the surface. If one is using mesh, use a cornering tool as it will not slip into the tape. Also when one lays mesh over a joint, unless the joint was filled or is tight, there is nothing under it in the gap when one uses mesh. But with paper tape, one filled first with compound so that crack between sheets is repaired. One small thing i don't agree with is that yes you don't need to fill before you put in mesh tape. But the bottom line is it is the same number of steps. One is at zero with rock only, then with paper you fill on step 1, and embed the tape, and with mesh you tape, and cover with compound. Step 2 for either is to fair the whole thing in over the joint with a curved trowel. So over all, there is no difference, it is still the same number of steps with either. And we know this because there are 5 levels of finish possible, not 4 for one and 5 for the other.
Good stuff Leah! Ive found when teaching DIYers to drywall finish, the fiberglass mesh tape is easiest for them to use. Because just like you said you don't have to in bed the mesh tape like paper tape. That is usually the biggest issue of getting a flat drywall joint for a beginner, is applying to much joint compound when doing the initial bedding of the paper tape. Lastly most mesh tape manufacturers recommend to use a setting type joint compound for the first coat over fiberglass mesh drywall tape. Take care, -Paul
Paul Peck totally agree with you on the mesh pal I'm just plasterboarding my loft and I'm using the mesh. I'm not going to plaster it I'm just going to do a good of a job I can on the joints then seal and paint it. What's your opinion on sealers? I do think know if to water down paint or use proper sealer but witch one
30 plus years experience here. With paper tape, you apply the mud to the recessed edge, the put the paper tape on, and wipe it down from the center to each end. LET THAT DRY TIL THE NEXT DAY!!!! Do not apply a bed coat to the wet paper tape. Give it a day to dry and shrink tight. Then the next day, use an 8" stainless steel floating knife and float a coat of mud over the tape. The feather of the top edge and bottom edge, then wipe down the mud, holding the knife at maybe 30-45 degree angle to the wall. Wipe down and make sure the mud is clean and smooth. let it dry, then the following day, use a 10" stainless steel knife and float a skim coat on that. Same procedure then after it is dry, it is ready to lightly sand. Use 100 grit screens or a sponge. Stay away from the mesh tape. I am a 30 plus year pro and I still do not use it. If a pro won't use something, what does that tell you about it?
@@thecoolestdad Correct. In Australia CSR do not recommend using mesh tape for anything other than small holes and patches. Mesh tape cracks on joints that have even the slightest movement. 30 year trade qualified Drywall plasterer here.
I am drywalling and finishing my new shed right now and came here after I installed my mesh tape on one of the walls. I think I'm going to go get some paper tape. Why do I start something and THEN go learn how to do it. LOL! Anyway, excellent video, and I learned about the drywall tools / banjo too. Great job! Thanks!
Jane, you are spot on as always. I just watched your video showing how to seal drywall paper tears like when wall paper is removed from an unprimed wall. You are missing 1 point. When mesh tape is used for joints and corners and the house settles, every joint will crack. I just redid a laundry room add on. it was terrible. All I could do is tape it with paper tape and recoat it. I had to bust the joints out wide and hope for the best. That was ceiling and walls. I will never use mesh tape again.
As a professional builder I would NEVER let my finishers use mesh tape to finish one of my houses. Mesh tape failures are not worth the aggravation, especially if the owner has moved in, furniture is in, art and all decor is hung, expensive area rugs are in, etc. The last thing I want to do at that point is go back to do a drywall repair and repaint. Mesh tape? NO, NO, NO. NOT HAPPENING. I once had a friend (and competitive) contractor tell me I was over the top not allowing my drywall sub to use mesh tape in my houses. Two years later he and I were talking. He apologized to me and said "You were right. I had mesh tape failure in several spots in a house. It was a nightmare moving everything out of the rooms and protecting the house for repairs and repaint. It cost me a fortune. I now no longer allow the use of the stuff, either. That was an expensive little lesson."
I can’t express just how much I appreciate your videos! You’ve helped me with my DIY projects tremendously and I have saved a lot of money and time in the process. I only wish I would have found your channel sooner!
Leah good job I have been doing drywall for 40 years and you got it just right . When I have to use mesh I still have to put mud on the wall three times
Hi Leah, You're 12 months late with this advise. I used paper to do a job on a very uneven ceiling surface. I labored for a week on this when I could have done it in one pass had I known about the difference between the two tapes. Thank you and keep up the good work, I learn something every time a new video comes out.
Yes, you answered my question exactly! I am now convinced on the advantages of paper tape for the inside corners and when sanding. I will use both for the right purposes, thank you for the precise information I was looking for.
I worked for a contractor for a number of years and for inside corners, paper tape. For everything else, mesh tape. Smoothing paper tape out can be difficult because of air bubbles. With mess, that's not a problem. Paper tape is easier to cut/rip pieces to length and mesh tape needs a sharp knife to get the best cut.
If you are having bubbles under the tape it is the finishers not the tape it is very rare I get blisters under my tape and I hand tape 7 to 10 rolls an day
I like it, I like it, I like it, I would like to write a thousand times "I like it" but it will take me the whole night to do it, so let me just finish by saying again thank you Leah now I know the difference about the mesh and paper tape.👋👋👋👍
Loved finding this video, helped me prove a point to the boss, I can hang sheetrock all day long, just never been much of a finisher...but lately I've been trying my hand at it with decent results..except for inside corners..boss only buys mesh tape and when I explained to him that we need both mesh and paper he questioned why, then I saw this video and showed it to him...and then let him see the difference for himself...haven't had to buy my own paper tape in a long time now, and actually got a little raise...thank you for this video..have a blessed day Leah :)
I gain so much knowledge from this short informative video. I had a drywall person to walk on my project which left me angry and determined, so at end of the video I appreciate the motivation, and “YES, I CAN DO THIS!” 🤗🤗with jumpin’ up and down that came upon your channel. Thank you!
I also rarely use mesh tape because I've found that on most of my remodels the mesh tape joints have cracked. Paper joints can fail as well, but if you think about it, paper already has a shear strength built into it, add a nice layer of mud to both sides and it's a very solid joint. Mesh is simply giving strength to the mud. However, since you put the tape on before any mud, the tape isn't getting much, if any, mud behind it. It would be like concrete being poured on top of rebar that was left sitting on the ground instead of being suspended in the middle of the slab. It will provide a little reinforcement, but hardly any at all. If there is any movement in the wall or ceiling then the mesh, which is hardly supporting to begin with, will fail causing a crack through the joint. However, as was stated in the video, mesh is good when suspended in the middle of mud, such as a hole in drywall, because it is in the middle of the mud.
nope. The mud goes through the holes and sticks. We had an earthquake here recently and every single paper tape joint has peeled. The mesh tape did get some damage but nowhere near as much. Remember it was an earthquake. But it didn't just peel off. That's because the compound sticks to the wall through the holes in the mesh tape keeping a much more solid contact. You do not get this luxury with paper tape. If a slight movement moves the joint just a tiny bit, because there is no compound from the top directly holding it on there, it's much more likely to peel.
It's true that when mesh fails, the only thing you see is a line crack as opposed to the entire piece coming off, and if you're in an earthquake prone area then the crack from mesh tape is probably preferable to the entire piece coming off, but I still stand by the fact that a joint held together by paper tape is a lot stronger, though an earthquake can bend steel. The reason why all of the joints don't fail after an earthquake is because different parts of the house will be stressed more, not because the joint was stronger. Both will fail with a strong enough earthquake and/or the right stress.
true, but mesh tape is actually stronger as it's made of fiber, where as paper is made of paper. You can much more easily sand to your viewing preference with paper tape, but you can get a much flatter, more hidden seam with mesh if it's thin enough. Some problem areas require stronger thicker mesh, but you know even then it's generally able to be flatter, because if you sand too much on paper it rips. However paper is easier to get it right if you know what you're doing. Fiberglass will just need another VERY THIN layer of delicately applied compound to coverup over-sanding. Yes it's much more involved in getting it right because it takes more skill, but it actually is less stress on you overall because of it's simplicity. It'll just take longer to get it done than paper. Not because of retries (if you are experienced enough) but because of the amount of days needed for each touch-up to dry. You don't really have to retry much with mesh, you just have to do more finishing touch ups. There is no starting over from scratch if you did it right! Not so with paper.
I like mesh tape on butt joints because its self adhesive and you can move with the mud faster. I save paper tape for inside corners. While its a much more expensive option, I really like Surecorner for inside corners, as its more rigid and holds a truer line. Its also a nice alternative to corner bead on outside corners.
I'm a huge fan of Surecorner as well. I use 100% mesh except Surecorner for inside corners. I haven't tried Surecorner on an outside corner, prefer the strong metal bead for that.
@@c0rnd0g_19 Surecorner is equally intended for outside corners. Here's why I like it. It doesn't create that pucker on the corner that inevitably throws every outside corner out of square for doing trim or tile. Also, it goes on more fluidly once the taping phase begins. I don't have the added step of cutting and nailing the metal bead. Also also, the metal bead isn't really that impervious to what life is going to dish out. It gets dinges and banged up fairly easily. While the Surecorner is a softer material, it doesn't get dinged and then hold that shape. Plus if it does get banged into later, it doesn't then yield a crack in the joint on 8 or 10 inches of either side of the damage point like a metal bead will. Its probably not cost effective to use Surecorner exclusively throught a whole house project, but I typically do kitchen and baths, so my work area for taping can be limited.
Great video! I think for DIYers I'd recommend using FibaFuse over the old fibreglass mesh tape. It sits flatter so it requires less mudding and sanding. You can also use pre-mixed mud which is the easiest if you're a beginner.
Nice job Leah! I just used mesh tape for a similar hole. During the first part of your vid I kept thinking, I hope I don't need to start over with tape! Thanks for clarifying and sharing your tips.
I can, I can do it! - I'm going to do it and I'm going to do it real soon. I've only been looking at the hole in the bathroom ceiling for about 6 months, (so give me time to get round to it). ... Yea, I'm the idiot who fell through the ceiling from the loft after missing the joist, whilst waltzing around the loft in the dark! I was wondering why I even need to use tape... Thanks Leah, great advice.
They have their pros and cons. I prefer mesh as it has greater binding properties. Hence, it's ideal for ceilings. But paper tape is better suited to walls, corners and etc.
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Mesh tape is not legal/code compliant for use on ceilings in Canada. So, no, not at all.
@@PlayaflyJoe27 I've been doing drywall since 1983 and makes no difference for walls or ceilings you just don't want to use mesh for regular compound because the shrinkage of the compound will make it crack don't listen to these bozos
I just find myself smiling whenever watching your videos. You are so uplifting and what your doing is so much more then just teaching! Thank you for what you do!
That was a very helpful explanation! I’ve asked numerous contractors to explain this concept and never gotten anything beyond “it just is better” or “I only use this”... Thanks!
Smart fellow this is the clearest illustration I've ever had. Thank you for getting right to the point in this video and not telling me about a lot of experiences. The illustrations you did use were excellent examples ,but you stayed right on q
OMG...I just LOVE 💕 you..!! Was trying to use paper tape on ceiling leak repair...first time doing this...and it kept falling off...if I use mesh...it will stick! GENIUS 👍 Thank you so so much!! God bless you for doing this!!!!
Every time I use paper tape I get it bubbled as it dries. Then I have to put a heavy layer of mud over it to get rid of the bubble. Mesh is my preferred flat surface tape. Inside corners require careful troweling anyway so it only matters if you go too thin.
Hope you enjoyed the video. Have you ever wanted to create your dream home but didn't know where to start? Register for my free masterclass on creating your dream home here: www.seejanedrillcourse.com/register-home-masterclass
Great Video...
Folks, I've been a contractor for 30 years. This woman knows her stuff, and knows how to teach her stuff. Someone needs to give her a TV show. Puts those fake HGTV "contractors" to shame. Keep up the good work, Leah!
Thank you so much! I always appreciate hearing from other folks in the skilled trades.
Hi friend, Do you need fiberglass mesh and adhesive mesh tape?
Jane gives me more confidence and peace then my therapist.
I wish she was my neighbor. I would talk to her every chance I could.
OMG doesn't she!!
@@cristelgarciajr9359 0++q0
Ain't that the truth!
More than dr Phil ?
By far the best explanation of anything on TH-cam. Get's to the point immediately, clear, lucid and targeted at exactly what you need to know. As a vocational education teacher for many years, I'm just so impressed.
I’ve been in construction industry for almost 20 years. Very, very few women. Warms my heart to see a very knowledgeable one sharing wisdom.
I never commented on a video but after watching a few of her videos I had to let this lady know she is amazing
Love her videos
Simple , detailed and she inspires you to try.
You should have your own tv show .
Thank you for all your help
Thank you so much, Regis! I really appreciate it. -Leah
I'll ditto that!!
You are a fantastic public speaker! Thank you for being so clear, concise, and conversational while informing. I've been doing so much research on how to rebuild my home after flood damage, and your video was more helpful than most.
Leah is like Mr. Rodgers, Bob Ross or Norm Abram - thank you Leah for reaching the DIYer in us all.
What a lovely personality AND she knows her sh#t. She has a way of explaining stuff for the "do it yourselfers" while putting on a contractors master class all at the same time.
It's good to see that somebody is telling people how to do this that knows the job and the terminology
Hi Leah, this is my first time watching one of your videos and I must say, You've done an outstanding job at explaining the difference of dyrwall paper tape vs mesh. I stumbled upon your video while searching something else and was wicked happy to I did. When helping others with DIY Home Improvements ( I love to tinker)... I have always explained that mesh tape was really for small area damaged wall repair where it just isn't reasonable to cut a new piece of drywall, fit it in and tape. I also wanted to mention, although this video is not intended to teach folks how to tape joints etc... I do wish to say that floating over paper tape is easier and leaves for much "finish" work. I still use a wet sponge rather than dry sanding ...but that is my preference. Thanks again!
Hi there, thanks for sharing your personal experience with the community!
This is the kind of friend I need in my life all the time. Wish I had found a channel this easy to understand a lot sooner than I did, some of my DIY attempts may have come out a lot less... crappy.
I feel the same!!! ahahah... Im getting goooood at DIY because of Leah's tips
Great advice ! Retired now, but many years as painter and paper hanger. So most of my drywall was in repairs before advancing to the reason I was hired. Although on occasion. Smaller sheetrock jobs did come my way. While in doing so. I came up with a system of wetting the paper tape before applying to adhere coat. Barely moistened, ( misted --- too much H2O wasn't good ) . It seemed to allow the finish coats to be stronger. The dry paper did not absorb the moisture from the mud too fast. Kind of like moistening say brick work before mortar applied. Slowing drying actually increases bond. Well my experience anyway... Just thought I would share that info. Again...love Her videos.... pros & cons are always a good place to look.
Love seeing another woman who loves her tools! Thanks Leah. I’m actually trying a new. Kind of tape called Fibafuse, which can be used in taping machines. It’s like the Interfacing used in sewing that you line things like collars with. Would like to see what you think of it.
Clear and concise comparison, explained with examples... this is an example of what helpful videos do.
I like to use mesh tape on small repairs and butt joints because if you sand it just short of exposing the mesh pattern, it sits flatter than paper tape, since the paper requires mud on the bottom to adhere and on the top to hide the edges. Mesh is also great for fixing persistent cracks that might cause paper to peel; sometimes, I'll put one piece of mesh on, cover it with Elmer's glue or thick paint, than just enough mud to hide it, leaving a more flexible patch than would be possible with paper and mud. It's also good for wet areas.
I am a 43 yrs old Civil Engineer and ...hats off to your expertise...brilliantly explained...perfectly understood. Thank you.
Leah, thank you. Your voice is comforting when anxious about my project and simple, yet thorough explanations have been so helpful in my adventures in drywall.
Wow, this was perfect, told me exactly what I needed to know. Plus I LOVE seeing a woman doing and teaching things like this. Thanks Leah!!
She’s the best, taught me the so much.
Agree, I just hung my drywall but gouged a few areas really bad. I think the mesh will benefit in those areas and regular tape for the rest
A woman?
@@christopherlampman5579 ,She?
@@ahmahtiyehudim7307 yes she is a female with differences
I’m doing my own drywall and worked construction since 14 and now appreciate the ability of drywall people so much more. Yall aren’t given the credit due because I am tired after mixing and applying one pan of mud
Just a homeowner who's built an addition and such. Tried paper tape early on and switched to mesh and never looked back. Unless very careful, paper tape can bubble and wrinkle, also more steps. Mesh is quick and forgiving, plus stronger.
Leah, I adore you! You’re the best TH-cam teacher! I love how you explain things succinctly and answer those questions that are wondered. God Bless you!
Every time I finish watching one of your videos, I say to myself "I love this woman". lol Thanks so much and the comments are always so helpful too! :)
Marianne Hartsfield : She remains me of a teacher I had in college. He was like Jane who went through the subject thoroughly, explaining it in such detail the intricacies. I also appreciate her explanations. She has the gift to teach!
Agreed!
Yes! So helpful
Marianne Hartsfield she is truly a gem!
LS well lucky you. I wish I had one like her. Teachers like her would make learning easy.
Fibafuse brand makes a tape that I believe is only sold at Lowe's, it's kind of a hybrid between paper and mesh, it's like paper-fiber. Best product I have ever used for doing seams.
I must say I love watching your videos cuz there is never a dumb question with u and I respect that thank u very much love
you're very welcome! thanks for watching :)
Dead on, and I absolutely agree. The ticking stick video saved my life.
Great video Thank you!!!
Much love my sister-you’re always so helpful-never thought a Lady would be teaching me how to be a handyman. Thanks for all you do.
I agree. Couple of things though. Generally, mesh-taped joints are stronger and less prone to cracking compared to paper ones, especially in areas of stress, such as above door jambs and windows. Also, for paper tape you must use all-purpose non-setting compound, which takes longer to dry. For mesh tape you can use 45 or 90-minute mud, so the time between the coats is shorter. When time is the factor, mesh is the way to go, especially on smaller projects when things need to be done overnight.
"Generally, mesh-taped joints are stronger and less prone to cracking compared to paper ones"
That is 100% Bullshit.
I also use hot mud for my pre-fill and paper taping and it works fine.
Leah always leaves me with that positive vibe that gets me moving. Thanks as always Leah.
So glad I stumble upon your page. Just moved into our home and have quite a few big projects for us to complete since my husband and I… 1 are not handy people… 2 never completed one diy project… 3 are on a tight budget.
Just watched your wall/ceiling crack video before this one and it has help us what to look for as far as materials, tools and steps on fixing it. Thank you!
I do mainly repairs, if I did production work it would be paper tape, but on repairs I use the ultra thin mesh tape, almost never see the mesh, it lays down nicely and holds the seams together, makes for a quicker job, and less coats...but I agree with most of what you say.. good vid!
Leah, I can't thank you enough for making these videos. Your vast knowledge of so many home repair areas, your thorough explanations, and your straightforward, friendly demeanor have taught me more than any other information source. DIY home improvement isn't at all as scary as I thought - thanks to you! Keep up the great work!
Hey Marco, that is very nice. That is why we do what we do...🙂
Leah- I always count on Leah when I am standing in Home Depot trying to make a decision. Huge fan. Thank you
Seriously glad that TH-cam introduced your video's to me when I first started out watching videos, you are amongst my first subscriptions. I wafted away probably for several years then all of a sudden one of your video's appeared with your face as the thumbnail and recognised you immediately & am happy to have you back as my son's flat is in need of some repairs prior to decorating and almost similar to my home. Glad to see you back Jane!👍😁😀
So Clear. Like walking through the park on a sunny day. Thanks Leah.
Mesh tape in tapered seams, paper tape in butt seams and corners. I've been doing it that way for 25+ years and the only time either one has failed is because of A: water damage or B: operator error (air bubble under paper, puckered tape, etc.)
I tried mesh tape once and will never use that crap again.
In New Zealand, Paper Tape is always used for joins and corners. Mesh Tape is only used for repairing a Gib Board (Plaster Board) hole, crack , or damage. Most holes are cut out and a piece inserted into hole behind Gib Board to support a new piece in the hole area cut out. The Gib Board paper at the edge of the hole is usually torn off away from the edge and Mesh Tape placed around the gap of the (board piece) filled hole. Removing the Gib Board paper from the edge of the hole area prevents bubbles and problems when you use Mesh and Mud to repair.
Yes, there are some different techniques used in my country by some different Dry Wall workers, but the best jobs I have seen follow these basics that I have mentioned for a far better finish and quality look about it.
Ms. Leah, great description of the two types! I’ve used both over the years and found mesh to be more helpful in repairing long cracks in flat ceilings of our old home. The cracks were less likely to return. Since then, I’ve learned the pros use caulking lol.
Hey Elaine, sounds like you are talking about a plaster ceiling, and I would agree with you!
seejanedrill Exactly Ms. Leah! House was built in 1931. Had tried the church key method but the crack came back.
Now I'm reminded of a hole in the wall to fix. I appreciate your skills and easy-going style of presenting your info. .
:)
Some mesh tape warns against using it w/ drywall compound. It says to use it only w/ setting compound. I've had the mesh tape actually split right along the joint on a flat wall. It's a hairline crack that is visible.
I think the compound would have cracked, but not the fibreglass mesh. It's very strong, and must be crimped very tight to break it.
I love you Leah! You are my go to when I'm needing to do DIY and learn things. I did fall in love with mesh tape when I had vertical floor to ceiling stress cracks in two rooms and had fixed 3 times (over several years) to no avail (the cracks always came back). I went and got some mesh tape and cut apx 1/4" deep into sheetrock and apx width of the tape. I put some mud, then mesh, dry, another layer of mud and mesh, dry and then finished it off. It's been over 20 years and those stress cracks have never come back. Keep up the great videos.
lea is great, because she has walked the walk, not just just talked the talk, like a lot of people on u tube. 👍
I have favored the paper tape mostly, and it has been in my last 3 remodels. Not because of cost, but I liked it because I just found it much easier to work with. Glad you posted this vid. It will for sure help someone in the future!
I just watched some of your videos. I owned a few bikes in my day and your videos make me miss the experience of riding down quite country roads. Thanks for the trip down memory lane.
Awww heck! :-D Well thanks for taking a peek at my goofy channel. hahaha! I had a heap of home remodeling vids up till about 2 years ago. Then when I got out of "house flipping" I deleted them all. ( In the end I lost more money than I made after all the expenses in that business! I think I paid myself about $3/hr working for myself! hahahaa! ) Hope you have a blessed week.
I love this woman!!! She is such a great person!!! YOU CAN DO THIS
Good comparison tips. I've found that keeping ALL types of tape in plastic bags preserves the adhesive.
Great video. I've seen joint failures with both types of tape, but I've never seen paper tape split in the middle. I thought the fiberglass tape would be stronger, but a wall I did in my parents' house with fiberglass tape split on the drywall seams 10 years later. It's been paper tape ever since.
🙂
If you have drywallers who did a crappy job and leave wide gaps then leave and go off to another job and you come in to tape said crap job, you will have to use mesh tape. Paper tape over any wider gap will push out thus making sanding next to impossible. Mesh tape is stronger and far more flexible over any wider gap or hole than paper. The holes in the mesh are designed to allow the mud to be pushed through and mushroom out behind the drywall to create strength and rigidity. Mold resistant mesh tape is also better to use in damp areas like washrooms and laundry rooms, were as paper tape will have better chance of becoming moldy.
Paper tape is the best on most properly boarded rooms.
I'd agree with most of your comment except 2: Mesh tape is not stronger:. It's just not, that's why you MUST use hot mud with mesh tape. I agree that mesh tape may contribute to a stronger system if you have large gaps and you don't prefill. The proper sequence is to prefill large gaps with hot mud, then tape. That will result in a stronger system. The biggest mistake I see people make is to all purpose with mesh tape:. Recipe for failure.
I think I am fairly knowledgeable, but then you always teach me something like store my mesh tape in a ziplock bag. Great tip. Thanks.
Daniel Ruff store that mesh tape directly in the garbage can lol
You are delightful to watch, well-paced and informative. I'm so glad to have found your channel. I've been a DIYer for 12 years, and your videos are plugging holes in my knowledge I didn't even know I had. I may just complete a few projects on which I've been stuck for ages...thanks!!
I use mesh for everything except inside corners.
Inside corners turn out super nice and quick with paper.
I use mesh for the seams so I can press hot mud through the tape into the gaps and then smooth it out. It is super strong that way...
I'm with you Leah, paper tape is best, I've used mesh many years ago and hated the stuff! Good vid!
I like mesh for repairs and paper for new construction
Thank you! No BS, straight to the point knowledge about the two tapes. Thank you again! God bless you.
Love your site, very well explained and at a speed I can keep up with.
I recently did a small amount of dry walling so I looked at every clip I could find on TH-cam.
One plaster I trusted agreed with you, in that, he very rarely used mesh.
His reasoning was..1. paper tape is much stronger than mesh, it doesn't deform when stretched, making it better for the majority butt joints. 2. If you use mesh on internal angles (corners) when running your plasterers knife/blade down the joint, the tip of the tool is likely to catch every little square making it almost impossible to get a good edge. I used paper on all joints and metal backed paper on external corners, and with quite a bit of sanding, the job looks great, much better than I ever believed I could do.
I did use your advice on building/erecting the timber frame, Big thank you.
you're very welcome, Michael!
Mesh tape has a shelf life. Who knew? Thanks again! Great stuff as always. I gotta go put my mesh tape in a plastic bag.
Bageera Sixtythree
She falsely presented this. Mesh tape will lose its stckyness in hot dry temps over time... BUT this only means you can then just use it like paper tape.
Mesh tape will dry out and become brittle.
But she sealed it in a plastic bag that had a hole in it near the top. What’s the point?
@@terryheasley7027 I'm glad u recognized that!😂
You are SO AMAZING!! If you had a drywall school, I would attend, I really want to become proficient at it!! For some reason it is therapeutic to me.
Its so cool that you are interested in drywall work.
Leah I have only seen a few of your videos and have already learned a very important lesson from you. If I listen and watch your videos, I better be ready to watch and listen carefully because you never say anything that isn't important to the subject at hand. I am 66 y/o and would love to come and sit down and listen to you talk. Just like this short video on paper vs mesh tape. I never knew that about tape. It was just awesome. Keep up the great work!
Love it. I just want to add a few things:
When one says it is cheaper, and works better in production tools, one might think it was some kind of cheap out. I come from boatbuilding and I thought paper tape was ridiculous, fiberglass had to be better, but now I use paper all the time. It is stronger than mesh tape, after all drywall is paper all over. And with paper tape you get full contact not a lot of areas where there is nothing. Mesh is easier to set in the gutters, but the hard par for beginners are the inside corners, and it is all too easy to cut the strands in mesh tape with a knife when laying in the compound as a beginner. With paper, one gets a little support with the surface. If one is using mesh, use a cornering tool as it will not slip into the tape.
Also when one lays mesh over a joint, unless the joint was filled or is tight, there is nothing under it in the gap when one uses mesh. But with paper tape, one filled first with compound so that crack between sheets is repaired.
One small thing i don't agree with is that yes you don't need to fill before you put in mesh tape. But the bottom line is it is the same number of steps. One is at zero with rock only, then with paper you fill on step 1, and embed the tape, and with mesh you tape, and cover with compound. Step 2 for either is to fair the whole thing in over the joint with a curved trowel. So over all, there is no difference, it is still the same number of steps with either. And we know this because there are 5 levels of finish possible, not 4 for one and 5 for the other.
Also, I use mesh on all my corner beads, which works great.
Good stuff Leah! Ive found when teaching DIYers to drywall finish, the fiberglass mesh tape is easiest for them to use. Because just like you said you don't have to in bed the mesh tape like paper tape. That is usually the biggest issue of getting a flat drywall joint for a beginner, is applying to much joint compound when doing the initial bedding of the paper tape. Lastly most mesh tape manufacturers recommend to use a setting type joint compound for the first coat over fiberglass mesh drywall tape. Take care, -Paul
Thanks Paul for mentioning the manufactures recommendation, it's important.
Paul Peck totally agree with you on the mesh pal I'm just plasterboarding my loft and I'm using the mesh. I'm not going to plaster it I'm just going to do a good of a job I can on the joints then seal and paint it. What's your opinion on sealers? I do think know if to water down paint or use proper sealer but witch one
Wow, what a totally incorrect explanation of tape use, obviously works at bunnings 🤦♂️
30 plus years experience here. With paper tape, you apply the mud to the recessed edge, the put the paper tape on, and wipe it down from the center to each end. LET THAT DRY TIL THE NEXT DAY!!!! Do not apply a bed coat to the wet paper tape. Give it a day to dry and shrink tight. Then the next day, use an 8" stainless steel floating knife and float a coat of mud over the tape. The feather of the top edge and bottom edge, then wipe down the mud, holding the knife at maybe 30-45 degree angle to the wall. Wipe down and make sure the mud is clean and smooth. let it dry, then the following day, use a 10" stainless steel knife and float a skim coat on that. Same procedure then after it is dry, it is ready to lightly sand. Use 100 grit screens or a sponge. Stay away from the mesh tape. I am a 30 plus year pro and I still do not use it. If a pro won't use something, what does that tell you about it?
@@thecoolestdad Correct. In Australia CSR do not recommend using mesh tape for anything other than small holes and patches. Mesh tape cracks on joints that have even the slightest movement. 30 year trade qualified Drywall plasterer here.
I am drywalling and finishing my new shed right now and came here after I installed my mesh tape on one of the walls. I think I'm going to go get some paper tape. Why do I start something and THEN go learn how to do it. LOL! Anyway, excellent video, and I learned about the drywall tools / banjo too. Great job! Thanks!
Jane, you are spot on as always. I just watched your video showing how to seal drywall paper tears like when wall paper is removed from an unprimed wall. You are missing 1 point. When mesh tape is used for joints and corners and the house settles, every joint will crack. I just redid a laundry room add on. it was terrible. All I could do is tape it with paper tape and recoat it. I had to bust the joints out wide and hope for the best. That was ceiling and walls. I will never use mesh tape again.
As a professional builder I would NEVER let my finishers use mesh tape to finish one of my houses. Mesh tape failures are not worth the aggravation, especially if the owner has moved in, furniture is in, art and all decor is hung, expensive area rugs are in, etc. The last thing I want to do at that point is go back to do a drywall repair and repaint. Mesh tape? NO, NO, NO. NOT HAPPENING.
I once had a friend (and competitive) contractor tell me I was over the top not allowing my drywall sub to use mesh tape in my houses. Two years later he and I were talking. He apologized to me and said "You were right. I had mesh tape failure in several spots in a house. It was a nightmare moving everything out of the rooms and protecting the house for repairs and repaint. It cost me a fortune. I now no longer allow the use of the stuff, either. That was an expensive little lesson."
You guys are nuts.
Mesh tape is superior in everything but an inside corner
Paper tape pulls away.
I’m boggled as to what you are talking about.
You don't know what you are talking about. Go back to school
So true my friend ive been gibstopping 20years an have had to repair many houses because of cowboys using mesh tape
I can’t express just how much I appreciate your videos! You’ve helped me with my DIY projects tremendously and I have saved a lot of money and time in the process. I only wish I would have found your channel sooner!
thanks, Josh!
Leah good job I have been doing drywall for 40 years and you got it just right . When I have to use mesh I still have to put mud on the wall three times
Hi Leah, You're 12 months late with this advise. I used paper to do a job on a very uneven ceiling surface. I labored for a week on this when I could have done it in one pass had I known about the difference between the two tapes. Thank you and keep up the good work, I learn something every time a new video comes out.
Thanks Paul
there are moments when i like paper but i usually use the mesh myself. nice explanation of the differences. thank you.
It’s you again after the pencil thing damn I love you
Yes, you answered my question exactly! I am now convinced on the advantages of paper tape for the inside corners and when sanding. I will use both for the right purposes, thank you for the precise information I was looking for.
Your little "you CAN do this" at the end honestly made me feel so much less nervous about effing up haha. I LOVE you
I worked for a contractor for a number of years and for inside corners, paper tape. For everything else, mesh tape. Smoothing paper tape out can be difficult because of air bubbles. With mess, that's not a problem. Paper tape is easier to cut/rip pieces to length and mesh tape needs a sharp knife to get the best cut.
I find that mesh tape cuts well as long as the knife is flush against the wall.
If you are having bubbles under the tape it is the finishers not the tape it is very rare I get blisters under my tape and I hand tape 7 to 10 rolls an day
I like it, I like it, I like it, I would like to write a thousand times "I like it" but it will take me the whole night to do it, so let me just finish by saying again thank you Leah now I know the difference about the mesh and paper tape.👋👋👋👍
you're very welcome, Felix!
Loved finding this video, helped me prove a point to the boss, I can hang sheetrock all day long, just never been much of a finisher...but lately I've been trying my hand at it with decent results..except for inside corners..boss only buys mesh tape and when I explained to him that we need both mesh and paper he questioned why, then I saw this video and showed it to him...and then let him see the difference for himself...haven't had to buy my own paper tape in a long time now, and actually got a little raise...thank you for this video..have a blessed day Leah :)
A corner towel makes all the difference for the DIYer with either paper or mesh.
I gain so much knowledge from this short informative video. I had a drywall person to walk on my project which left me angry and determined, so at end of the video I appreciate the motivation, and “YES, I CAN DO THIS!” 🤗🤗with jumpin’ up and down that came upon your channel. Thank you!
Excellent tutorial, as always, Leah. Thanks.
I also rarely use mesh tape because I've found that on most of my remodels the mesh tape joints have cracked. Paper joints can fail as well, but if you think about it, paper already has a shear strength built into it, add a nice layer of mud to both sides and it's a very solid joint. Mesh is simply giving strength to the mud. However, since you put the tape on before any mud, the tape isn't getting much, if any, mud behind it. It would be like concrete being poured on top of rebar that was left sitting on the ground instead of being suspended in the middle of the slab. It will provide a little reinforcement, but hardly any at all. If there is any movement in the wall or ceiling then the mesh, which is hardly supporting to begin with, will fail causing a crack through the joint. However, as was stated in the video, mesh is good when suspended in the middle of mud, such as a hole in drywall, because it is in the middle of the mud.
nope. The mud goes through the holes and sticks. We had an earthquake here recently and every single paper tape joint has peeled. The mesh tape did get some damage but nowhere near as much. Remember it was an earthquake. But it didn't just peel off. That's because the compound sticks to the wall through the holes in the mesh tape keeping a much more solid contact. You do not get this luxury with paper tape. If a slight movement moves the joint just a tiny bit, because there is no compound from the top directly holding it on there, it's much more likely to peel.
It's true that when mesh fails, the only thing you see is a line crack as opposed to the entire piece coming off, and if you're in an earthquake prone area then the crack from mesh tape is probably preferable to the entire piece coming off, but I still stand by the fact that a joint held together by paper tape is a lot stronger, though an earthquake can bend steel. The reason why all of the joints don't fail after an earthquake is because different parts of the house will be stressed more, not because the joint was stronger. Both will fail with a strong enough earthquake and/or the right stress.
true, but mesh tape is actually stronger as it's made of fiber, where as paper is made of paper. You can much more easily sand to your viewing preference with paper tape, but you can get a much flatter, more hidden seam with mesh if it's thin enough. Some problem areas require stronger thicker mesh, but you know even then it's generally able to be flatter, because if you sand too much on paper it rips. However paper is easier to get it right if you know what you're doing. Fiberglass will just need another VERY THIN layer of delicately applied compound to coverup over-sanding. Yes it's much more involved in getting it right because it takes more skill, but it actually is less stress on you overall because of it's simplicity. It'll just take longer to get it done than paper. Not because of retries (if you are experienced enough) but because of the amount of days needed for each touch-up to dry. You don't really have to retry much with mesh, you just have to do more finishing touch ups. There is no starting over from scratch if you did it right! Not so with paper.
Great vid Leah.
To the point, no BS spin with miles & miles of waffle.
Love the tip abt. storing the mesh tape !
I like mesh tape on butt joints because its self adhesive and you can move with the mud faster. I save paper tape for inside corners. While its a much more expensive option, I really like Surecorner for inside corners, as its more rigid and holds a truer line. Its also a nice alternative to corner bead on outside corners.
I'm a huge fan of Surecorner as well. I use 100% mesh except Surecorner for inside corners. I haven't tried Surecorner on an outside corner, prefer the strong metal bead for that.
@@c0rnd0g_19 Surecorner is equally intended for outside corners.
Here's why I like it. It doesn't create that pucker on the corner that inevitably throws every outside corner out of square for doing trim or tile.
Also, it goes on more fluidly once the taping phase begins. I don't have the added step of cutting and nailing the metal bead.
Also also, the metal bead isn't really that impervious to what life is going to dish out. It gets dinges and banged up fairly easily. While the Surecorner is a softer material, it doesn't get dinged and then hold that shape. Plus if it does get banged into later, it doesn't then yield a crack in the joint on 8 or 10 inches of either side of the damage point like a metal bead will.
Its probably not cost effective to use Surecorner exclusively throught a whole house project, but I typically do kitchen and baths, so my work area for taping can be limited.
Great video! I think for DIYers I'd recommend using FibaFuse over the old fibreglass mesh tape. It sits flatter so it requires less mudding and sanding. You can also use pre-mixed mud which is the easiest if you're a beginner.
Love your video, so happy to see your subscriber count is going up fast!!!
thanks, Edward!
Nice job Leah! I just used mesh tape for a similar hole. During the first part of your vid I kept thinking, I hope I don't need to start over with tape! Thanks for clarifying and sharing your tips.
Thank you, Leah. Clear, concise, correct.
Thanks for your time to do this helpful videos for everyone, I'm Honduran and i appreciate you advice ty
I can, I can do it! - I'm going to do it and I'm going to do it real soon. I've only been looking at the hole in the bathroom ceiling for about 6 months, (so give me time to get round to it).
... Yea, I'm the idiot who fell through the ceiling from the loft after missing the joist, whilst waltzing around the loft in the dark! I was wondering why I even need to use tape... Thanks Leah, great advice.
Just drywalled and taped my first room. Videos like this is life saving.
They have their pros and cons. I prefer mesh as it has greater binding properties. Hence, it's ideal for ceilings. But paper tape is better suited to walls, corners and etc.
Mesh tape is not legal/code compliant for use on ceilings in Canada. So, no, not at all.
No Rocket Science Build you're definitely not rocket science is that's for sure especially for fire coat you can't use mesh on ceilings
You're absolutely right. Mesh is good for the ceiling ONLY and paper is great on the walls!
@@PlayaflyJoe27 I've been doing drywall since 1983 and makes no difference for walls or ceilings you just don't want to use mesh for regular compound because the shrinkage of the compound will make it crack don't listen to these bozos
yveslo lou will definitely will take that in consideration as I continue to finish my basement. I'm using both tapes and joint compound. Wish me luck
You are the best...thank you
Excellent job
I watch a lot of DIY tips from lots of different people and I think Leah is the best.
I just find myself smiling whenever watching your videos. You are so uplifting and what your doing is so much more then just teaching! Thank you for what you do!
I've never walked Into a house and see mesh exposed, paper is another story
Cool knowledge to have
Nice to see you again Goff
That was a very helpful explanation! I’ve asked numerous contractors to explain this concept and never gotten anything beyond “it just is better” or “I only use this”...
Thanks!
No matter how old the video, they're always informative, entertaining and relevant. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with such an easy demeanor.
Good info.
You make me happy :) thanks for the awesome tid-bit of knowledge
Smart fellow this is the clearest illustration I've ever had. Thank you for getting right to the point in this video and not telling me about a lot of experiences. The illustrations you did use were excellent examples ,but you stayed right on q
OMG...I just LOVE 💕 you..!! Was trying to use paper tape on ceiling leak repair...first time doing this...and it kept falling off...if I use mesh...it will stick! GENIUS 👍 Thank you so so much!! God bless you for doing this!!!!
Fantastic video!!!!
thanks!
I use paper tapes only for corners .
Every time I use paper tape I get it bubbled as it dries. Then I have to put a heavy layer of mud over it to get rid of the bubble. Mesh is my preferred flat surface tape. Inside corners require careful troweling anyway so it only matters if you go too thin.
Leah, you are an excellent instructor. I learned something new today. Thank you for taking the time to post you videos.
you're welcome, Bob, and thanks for watching!