I’ve done several floors, mine, friends, family. Single garage, 2-car and 3-car. I agree with the prep being the most important and time consuming part. All of the floors are doing pretty well. Mine is the oldest 5 years, still looks great but I did notice some peeling in a few places. What I found was the material is not sufficient for the coverage and I had to buy additional material.
Im doing this now. I rented a sander with 36 grit pad for $50 from home depot. Not a grinder as those leave a cloud of dust. Also, waited 12 hours between scrubbing with degreaser and etching.
For those that don’t do it before each bag have to be apply or you have to paint the area in less that 45 min, I didn’t know that and I lose my money, as soon as you kid the two components I will start getting hot , if you don’t paint faster the blend will become a solid rock , so I live in houston Texas we are now at 110F , paint at night or early morning 5 / 7 am it will get hard a few more minutes like 1 hour , I do lost one bag not able to paint all the borders and the half of the garage , I do buy another whole kit I will paint the rest tomorrow at 5 am to make sure that I have no sun or hot at all and set a timer just in case
It was a single car garage area and I had extra paint left over out of that bag. Its holding up good but there is a spot where hot tires made the paint chip
I didn't measure. I used a two-car garage pack and had some left over. If you are concerned I would spread it thinner and just go back over it with the extra if you have any.
30 x 50 is 1500 square feet, it took me 2 - 2 car garage "Rocksolid" kits to barely get my 450 sq ft floor done, you would need 7 kits at >300$ a kit. I highly suggest you seek out some real epoxy that puts down a thicker coating, this stuff is very thin and covers 40% of what Rustoleum says it does.
What I have a brand-new 20x20 concrete slab that my shed was put on? I assume I can just sweep it clean, maybe wash it down with a garden hose, but no need for a degreaser or anything else right? Also, what do you estimate the total time spent was for rolling it onto the floor once you started pouring it?
Whats up man awesome video, I was wanting to put the clear coat Rocksolid on top however when I saw it was more expensive than the actual base coating I do not want to do it, kind of a three way question but my floor is a raw concrete, I am going to diamond grind it but do you think I need it is necessary to put primer and the top clear coating on after if I use the rocksolid product? Thank you
Put a clear coat of poly if it gets a lot of sun as epoxy "ambers" in the sun. Polyaspartic clear topcoat is UV protected and resistant to scratching. Sliding a cardboard box on shiny epoxy will dull it but the polyaspartic is softer and so more forgiving to abrasion. You asked a while ago but it's not too late if you already did it without the clearcoat just scruff it up a bit with 400 grit paper.
The floor is holding up great however there are a couple of little spots where the tires of my car after driving all day bubbled up. I think a thicker coat or prepping the floor by sanding it would prevent this. Overall I'm happy with the results
I do this every day and the only way to prep properly is to actually grind it. We fix floors done in this method constantly. There are hundreds of videos on how this is properly done, this just isn't one of them.
Yeah I was wondering about the grinding and crack patching aspect. Especially for older garage floors with more imperfections. How easy would it be for a DIY'er to grind?
Of course, grinding would be best and more paint too. However, this is for someone that doesn't have thousands of dollars of equipment. Maybe someone will call you to fix their floor in the years to come otherwise, this is a do-it-yourself video.
@@jtinero You can have someone come grind it but it will cost you a ton. and they will just try to talk you into doing the whole thing for more than you should pay.
Stressing the prep aspect but yet you don’t prep the concrete for optimal adhesion? What’s the point of doing this if it’s going to have to be redone every few seasons? It’s just a base coat and a few stagnant chips. Looks alright for the first year (if hot tires don’t pick it up by then) and then it’s dull and gets dirty. It’s best to just leave the concrete how it is and deal with it until you can afford a proper coating using proper preparation. If you install this kit yourself, and decide you don’t like it, well now you have to spend a lot more money to get it removed and done right. I wouldn’t have a problem with this video if you didn’t say “doing it right for the first time”. Like come on man what a hack.
thanks for your comment. this is a DIY project doing it the best I can without heavy machinery. so yes, preparing the concrete with what a DIY might have. no reason for you to get your panties in a wad about it. if you don't like the information, keep scrolling, troll.
![Rustoleum ROCK SOLID Perfect Results [Secrets]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/E6awu6OCZuY/mqdefault.jpg)
I’ve done several floors, mine, friends, family. Single garage, 2-car and 3-car. I agree with the prep being the most important and time consuming part. All of the floors are doing pretty well. Mine is the oldest 5 years, still looks great but I did notice some peeling in a few places. What I found was the material is not sufficient for the coverage and I had to buy additional material.
Thanks for your help. First I"ve seen of this product.
Thanks for making this. We’re about to do this and appreciate the demonstration.
That floor turned out great! Definitely an improvement.
Im doing this now. I rented a sander with 36 grit pad for $50 from home depot. Not a grinder as those leave a cloud of dust.
Also, waited 12 hours between scrubbing with degreaser and etching.
Drywall sander?
Cool video
For those that don’t do it before each bag have to be apply or you have to paint the area in less that 45 min, I didn’t know that and I lose my money, as soon as you kid the two components I will start getting hot , if you don’t paint faster the blend will become a solid rock , so I live in houston Texas we are now at 110F , paint at night or early morning 5 / 7 am it will get hard a few more minutes like 1 hour , I do lost one bag not able to paint all the borders and the half of the garage , I do buy another whole kit I will paint the rest tomorrow at 5 am to make sure that I have no sun or hot at all and set a timer just in case
Good and helpful video 👍, getting ready to prep, prep, prep 👍 my two car garage floor and make that floor beautiful! New home
You will not be disappointed. The floor turned out great and will be easy to maintain in case of an oil spill. Cheers!
Great video!
Please give an update on the durability of the garage floor diy update
Hello, the floor has been holding up great so far. Thank you for asking.
I have oil base porch and floor paint currently on, can i strip the paint and follow your video to finish it up?
That would be a question for a painter, I think
My driveway has pavers. I worried that rising the acid out of the garage down the long paved driveway will damage the pavers. Any thoughts on this?
I couldn't say for sure, but I would think you could wash it off real good.
Did you paint the floor the same day you washed it? If so, how long did you wait? Someone told me you should wait 24 hours to let it dry.
no, I waited a day
What about the clear seal coat?
don't think it is needed
Hello from Minnesota!
how big was the area and how many kits did you use? hows it holding up?
It was a single car garage area and I had extra paint left over out of that bag. Its holding up good but there is a spot where hot tires made the paint chip
So do we need to put primer and clear coat????
I'm just a do it yourself kind of guy but I'd say no. prepping is key
Hi where can I found the products
Below the video where it says more.... is a link :)
I have a two car garage with those four pieces like that. Do I have to seal the space in-between the slabs, because I noticed you did not fill them.
I do not believe that you do. I didn't
Nope they are there for a reason. ;
How large was your area vs how much product did you use? Using this for my 30x50 shop and trying to make sure I have enough material before I start.
I didn't measure. I used a two-car garage pack and had some left over. If you are concerned I would spread it thinner and just go back over it with the extra if you have any.
30 x 50 is 1500 square feet, it took me 2 - 2 car garage "Rocksolid" kits to barely get my 450 sq ft floor done, you would need 7 kits at >300$ a kit. I highly suggest you seek out some real epoxy that puts down a thicker coating, this stuff is very thin and covers 40% of what Rustoleum says it does.
That's because this epoxy is 49% water. Your advice is spot on ;
You don’t have to put a finish coat on it?
It wouldn't hurt
What I have a brand-new 20x20 concrete slab that my shed was put on? I assume I can just sweep it clean, maybe wash it down with a garden hose, but no need for a degreaser or anything else right? Also, what do you estimate the total time spent was for rolling it onto the floor once you started pouring it?
The prep is the most important and time-consuming part. The paint goes on in minutes depending on how big of an area you have.
My floor was new concrete too, but I still took the time to clean it and etch the concrete.
Whats up man awesome video, I was wanting to put the clear coat Rocksolid on top however when I saw it was more expensive than the actual base coating I do not want to do it, kind of a three way question but my floor is a raw concrete, I am going to diamond grind it but do you think I need it is necessary to put primer and the top clear coating on after if I use the rocksolid product? Thank you
I'm not a pro. But I think the topcoat and clear would be good enough. Imo
Put a clear coat of poly if it gets a lot of sun as epoxy "ambers" in the sun. Polyaspartic clear topcoat is UV protected and resistant to scratching. Sliding a cardboard box on shiny epoxy will dull it but the polyaspartic is softer and so more forgiving to abrasion. You asked a while ago but it's not too late if you already did it without the clearcoat just scruff it up a bit with 400 grit paper.
You should always add acid to water and not water to acid.
Yeah I saw that too 8
Forget the squeegee, use a leaf blower.
Just curious, you posted this video over a year ago on doing your garage floor, how’s it holding up?
The floor is holding up great however there are a couple of little spots where the tires of my car after driving all day bubbled up. I think a thicker coat or prepping the floor by sanding it would prevent this. Overall I'm happy with the results
So do you throw the chips on after you're done painting the whole garage Or do you do sections at a time?
I did sections at a time so I could achieve uniformity
Do you need to put clear coat on top?
No, i don't believe so. The paint is hard enough.
How’s floor holding up?? Is it worth $$
The floor is doing great. Thank you.....prep
You forgot the the clear coat
Forget etching. Grind the floor, regardless of condition
If your grinding your floors do you still have to degrease it first
Fue un video de limpieza nada mas
That is the most important part of doing this project. The painting is self-explanatory.
I do this every day and the only way to prep properly is to actually grind it.
We fix floors done in this method constantly.
There are hundreds of videos on how this is properly done, this just isn't one of them.
Yeah I was wondering about the grinding and crack patching aspect. Especially for older garage floors with more imperfections. How easy would it be for a DIY'er to grind?
Yea if you want to pay thousands for your garage floor instead of a couple hundred. No thanks.
Of course, grinding would be best and more paint too. However, this is for someone that doesn't have thousands of dollars of equipment. Maybe someone will call you to fix their floor in the years to come otherwise, this is a do-it-yourself video.
@@jtinero You can have someone come grind it but it will cost you a ton. and they will just try to talk you into doing the whole thing for more than you should pay.
@@Glock274Jimmy exactly!
Stressing the prep aspect but yet you don’t prep the concrete for optimal adhesion? What’s the point of doing this if it’s going to have to be redone every few seasons? It’s just a base coat and a few stagnant chips. Looks alright for the first year (if hot tires don’t pick it up by then) and then it’s dull and gets dirty. It’s best to just leave the concrete how it is and deal with it until you can afford a proper coating using proper preparation. If you install this kit yourself, and decide you don’t like it, well now you have to spend a lot more money to get it removed and done right. I wouldn’t have a problem with this video if you didn’t say “doing it right for the first time”. Like come on man what a hack.
thanks for your comment. this is a DIY project doing it the best I can without heavy machinery. so yes, preparing the concrete with what a DIY might have. no reason for you to get your panties in a wad about it. if you don't like the information, keep scrolling, troll.
Rustoleum products suck. Did all the prep work for two days and their crap peeled.
You dont need to grind the floor?
It would be better too if you had one