Tong Helper Pipe Tool
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2024
- In this video I show a way/tool to help with forging tongs.
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Thanks. Glen - บันเทิง
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Whenever I see a new Glen GS Tongs video I know I'm going to see a different, better approach to a smithing situation, and this certainly fills the bill. Thanks!
This needs tweaking but has good potential and has worked well for me so far. Thanks.
Nice work glen. You've gotten peoples minds thinking about your Tong Tool. Nice to see you Blacksmithing !
It's not perfect but so far, this simple tool has really helped me. With a little tweaking, this will be invaluable for me. The back pressure is what I needed... Thanks.
On my jigs, fixtures, and tools I have started painting them so they don't get accidentally thrown away or misused for something else. Thank you for sharing. Great video!
Any type of "third hand" can be a huge help, this one also gives consistent results, nice job Glen.
Man... I have such love for ya. You are an innovative genius for my skill set
I often look for really simple "third hand" options. This needs adjusting but so far, it's worked out well for me. Thanks.
I doubt I'm a genius and my wife would disagree with you for sure! But I appreciate your kind comment. Thanks.
Nice setup for the Tongs. Thanks for sharing Glen. Stay safe over there.
It's the back pressure that I'm looking for. With some adjusting, this will be a really simple but effective "third hand" option. Thanks.
Hi Glen, really good video and nice tool. While watching i thought about a few ways to improve it, here are my ideas:
-you could drill and tap a hole through the pipe to add a locking bolt, but i think it would be to long to operate
- you could create a shim that fits between the pipe and the bar
- you could weld a sleeve inside the pipe to reduce the diameter and have a closer fit
- and simply rounding out the inside edge of the pipe could reduce the amount of marks left on the surface
I'm hoping that any of this will be useful to you. Have a good one!
Your last suggestion is good and something I did. And your ideas for a stop are all interesting. Just like you say though, it needs to be able to be operated quickly. Thanks.
Great little jig Glen. Perhaps an angle iron extension of the back end of the pipe to hold up the end of the blank. Drill holes for stop pins at the various lengths of your blanks to keep them from sliding out/down. Maybe a small spring clamp to keep the blank clamped to the angle so it doesn't jump around. I do something like this with my bench shear when snapping off round rod. The thicker the rod the more it seems to jump. Or, instead of welding angle on to the pipe, you could just us a longer section of pipe and have the back end cut in half length-wise, thus acting as the angle iron. But probably more efficient/cost effective to just have the angle welded on.
Rounding over the inside edge of the pipe might help clean up that ragged bit on the back side of the tong you mentioned.
Love seeing your jig making. I enjoy making my own jigs as much as or more then making what I'm using them for. :)
Very neat result.
Satisfying outcome.
I will make some small changes to this to make it better but it's hard to argue with the results I've bene getting so far. Thanks.
Good fun. That is a handy tool. Thinking outside the box as per normal for you.... Well done....
It needs tweaking but so far it's worked well for what I need. Thanks.
This fellow is very talented
Much appreciated. Thanks for watching.
I can see that being quite handy! Great idea, Glen. I started forging tongs last night after studying your techniques and lots of practice with modeling clay and I'm super excited to finish them! Almost as excited as I was to see a new video. Thank you and please keep up the excellent work 🔥⚒️🤘✨
This needs tweaking but the general concept is to help with consistency, which it does well for me. Thanks.
Love this tip, Glen!
Awesome! Could something be used as a stop to keep the bar in the correct position when in the pipe? Looked like you had that big block close that maybe could be used.
Good call - I did use that wood block (vise stand) before as a stop. Thanks.
Useful tool, great thinking!
Just something to think about an improve upon. Thanks.
Hey Glenn! I'm always ragging on you for your roaming Taipei videos, glad to see you swinging a hammer again! If I might offer a suggestion with this new tool. I think it might have worked better if it had not been angled. I think then you could have adjusted the offset by adjusting the height of the Hardy Shank. And then simply let the Anvil face play a part in making the offset. Still very nice to see you back at the fire! Happy hammering!
Yes, I will almost certainly adjust the height by shortening the hardy shank. I just wanted to start higher and adjust downward as needed. Good point.Thanks.
Great idea 💡- maybe add a flip down magnet holding the bar.
Your magnet idea is interesting. Not sure how well it would hold but I guess that depends on the magnet. And I could only use the magnet were the steel is not too hot. Thanks.
Great idea
Much appreciated.
Thanks for the video Glen. (JF)
Thanks KS, formerly known as JF. I'll keep at it.
Good job as always. We posted this video in our homemade tools forum this week :)
good idea, a possible stop on the back end ( adjustable) should keep it in place ...
I haven't yet figured that out but some sort of stop will make this even more consistent. Thanks.
It amazes me how long he can work on each heat
I never thought too much about that. But I often lightly work a piece even when the heat has gone down significantly. Thanks for watching.
@@gstongs It's an interesting point that's rarely discussed on any Blacksmithing site. Most simply assume that you should stop working once the redness has diminished, (increased wear on tools, hard on the hands, little outcome for lots of effort, etc), yet we can achieve remarkable results manipulating cold steel. So an in depth discussion/demonstration with an infra red heat imaging camera would be sooo exciting . . . Might even lead to
*A three-part series* 🤔
La simplicité parfois est la meilleure solution.
I always look the most simple solution... Thanks for hanging around my channel so long.
A thought, a nut welded to the top of that pipe with a bolt with a handle welded to it would hold you work piece more steady...hope that helps
I like the idea of a drilled and taped hole or nut welded over hole as you mention (even better), And maybe a wing nut to make operating this sort of stop easier and quicker. Good idea. Thanks.
Awsome as usual
Much appreciated.
@Glen GS Tongs I like this Glen but for me I would add a longer piece of pipe with the top half cut out so I could put a clamp at the length of handle I need and just drop the blank in ...that way it would sit without the need to hold it while I get the extra tooling.
That's a very cleaver idea. One of the best I've heard so far. We'll see... Thanks.
Interesting "helper" tool. Seems like though, that you could make the first offset bend on the anvil just like you made the second bend...
No doubt the first bend can first be made freehand. But the point of this tool is to try to make two consistent bends at one time - still needs some tweaking for that. Thanks.
Need to make a wedge for the backside of that pipe to hold the bar stock in place while you hit it with the flatter and hammer.
Yes, a wedge or some other stop is needed. Thanks.
Always something worth watching in your videos. What type of forge do you use. It’s so quiet. Have you always sat down to forge or just got tired of standing. Very nice work brother.
My forge is a Diamondback Ironworks forge. Can't say enough good about his forges. I started sitting when we moved (back) to Taiwan and I found my space seriously limited. I doubt I can go back to standing. Thanks.
I wonder, if you could use a set of vise-grips to hold the piece in the pipe
It's an interesting idea that a few others also mentioned. I will see what sort of stop idea works best. Thanks.
SUPER
what about welding half a pair of vice grips on top of the tube at the back to hold the work piece when you strike it?
That's an interesting idea. But I might try a drilled and tapped hole with a wing nut first. Thanks for your suggestion.
Would a strong magnet located somewhere on your positioning tool be a good idea? Maybe at least keep the work from falling to the floor.
Very good
Impressive!
Whipple
It needs tweaking but it's worked well for me so far. Thanks.
@@gstongs Form follows function. LOL.
Cheers, Glen!
Whipple
Definitely an interesting idea but I feel like free handing it would still be my preferred method and you don’t have to deal with the scar just my opinion but cool idea nonetheless
I suppose freehand is the pinnacle of "proper" blacksmithing. But since this is a process I need to repeat frequently, I like this simple tool for the consistency it can offer me. Just needs a bit of adjusting... Thanks.
so im terrible at tongs, but the best offset i got while making them was with your guillotine tool
Could drill it, tap it, put some kind of T handle on it to help secure the too be tong from bouncing around so much. I like it.
Good Glen, why not just hold the stock and hit it with the hammer instead of using the flatter and the piece moving up and down. would save time and heat?
I think he's trying to hit right on the mark where the jaws bend back. That would be hard to do freehand.
As J Dewitt said, I'm trying to be precise. But you're right, freehand would save time and make this less cumbersome. Thanks.
Yes, most definitely true. Thanks.
Can you make a video of hand forging a gear. Thats is a challenge for yoz
I'm not sure I could do that. Something to think about... Thanks.
The tool, I can't even pay attention to the tool or anything that is going on... I can't take my eyes off that anvil... I'm in love with it! Does anyone know if that anvil is custom made or if it a commercially available item?
@Jamal69 its pretty cool isn't it, I think Glen has them made and supplies them. I always wonder what the little round thing is on the left hand end
@@TalRohan yes, I was wondering the same about that rounded thing. Anyhow, is glen the guy in the video?
@@jamal69jackson77 yes thats Glen
I believe what you see is a magnet, to take the ring out of the anvil .
@@robertwhitney2232 oh good one thanks I never though of that lol
Hey Glen... Nice job... What was your starting stock? 16mm? And would you work out the reins or leave as is?
This stock is 14mm. I don't draw out the reins but I do work the rein ends a bit - hammer in handle end fuller marks. Thanks.
Do you get wrist pains?
Almost never. But I rarely swing my hammer very hard and it's key to have a "loose" grip on your hammer handle to avoid shock. Thanks.
What brand of anvil is that?
My small, block style anvils are my own designs which I had made here in Taiwan. So I guess you could cal them GS Anvils. Thanks for watching.
👍👍🌺
Thanks for hanging around my channel.
Who made your anvil?
can you send 1 to me
😅
Really nice work as usual.
Much appreciated and thanks for hanging around my channel so long.