Thanks for documenting, showing how easy / straightforward this job really is. I have a 2014 Rex, sheared the M12 right mount bolt on Friday. Thx to your video, I was able to get my car back on the road temporarily by Sunday by gutting the old torn mount, cleaning with soap & water, filling with Polyurethane construction adhesive, reinstalling with a fresh M12-1.75 80mm 10.9 bolt sourced locally. The old mount with the Y-shaped nose is NLA, so I must update the bracket too, which no dealer within 5hrs drive stocks. I drove yesterday pm + today on the repaired mount, seems fine for all but hooning. After watching how much the drivetrian flops around even with the new mount, I intend to make filler pieces to limit this slop for future hooning even after completing the job. Note that there is not enough "meat" around the M12 hole in the old mount bracket to allow it to be safely enlarged to M14. Given the extreme force this mount sees, I'm blowing $160 on the proper bracket instead of risking another failure.
@@BMIKE999 I've had the new bracket since this past Thursday, new mount and proper bolt since last Tuesday, but choose to goof off and drive on the repaired mount all weekend. Despite some hooning with DSC off, still holding strong! I honestly don't hear/feel (I didn't drive with the cover off to actually SEE) any more movement than with the stock mount, despite the tear, but definitely DO hear more noise from the Rex when on. At rest, that side of the drivetrain now effectively sits on hard Polyurethane instead of an oil-filled bladder.
@BMIKE999 You really want to see how the torn/filled mount performs? Since the rubber is torn, I expect it to deform rearward nearly as badly as before I filled it. My fix wasn't intended to be long-term, nor an improvement over the new or old stock mount, just a bandaid to keep me rolling until all of the correct parts arrived.
Best video i have ever seen. It's rediculously durable because I drove for one year before upgrading my leaked old style motor mount. Just be careful to see if it was getting loosen feeling.
The oil filling is to make the bracket particularly soft. If it were filled with some rubber, it would still be harder and every kick down pressure on the pedal would feel like a small blow. The oil helps to be extra flexible. The lower mounts of the motor are oil-free, where such flexibility is not required. Thanks for your opinion👍
Thanks BMIKE for your great video, just changed my right hand motor mount on a 2016 i3 BEV, 65k miles. I marked the existing E20 bolt and found it was done up to about 95Nm torque, so did it back to up that after replacement.
You need to disconect HV battery if you have any kind of work from/ in engine bay. It takes only a few seconds to disconect it. + You need to gently lift engine. Any error on any step and you are baked. (For example you smash some HV cable with hammer, tool…etc) !!!The same procedure if you need to change left side, only on left side you don’t have free space!!! There you can touch HV cable many times. !!!☠️☠️So never work in engine bay if HV battery is connected!!!!☠️☠️
Greetings ... Great video.. it happens to many people, and BMW has not done anything about it... Service stations take a lot of money from people for that work because the car's warranty has expired... I have questions.. Where did you buy the part?? (I know there is an improved version as well) What is the condition of the other engine mounts? I'm getting ready to modify the engine mounts on our car.. I bought glue that turns into strong flexible rubber.. I will glue the cracks that have started... and I will glue a bigger tire around to get the same effect as on that bracket you showed (more tires and less stretching) I see that they are filled with oil... I think that they could also be filled with this rubber-glue... to get strength... I don't believe that it will affect the vibrations much, especially the rear wheels. Maybe at least try...
Thank you! I bought the part in the online shop: www.hubauer-shop.de/en/carparts/i-models-parts-catalog/i3-meg/ You must compare the part numbers because there is a version with a thicker mounting screw. For now, the remaining mounts are ok - 120 K per clock. You can experiment with the glue, but I don't believe you can glue it. The power of the motor is huge if you push pedal to metal. I have seen polymer replacements but no experience. The oil fill could be to achieve a softer vibration reduction with a harder rubber shell. If the whole part were a solid monolith, then the vibration of the motor would be more noticeable and every pedal to metal beat would be audible. But keep do experiments and let know the results😊
New mounting bracket : www.hubauer-shop.de/en/carparts/i-models-parts-catalog/i3-meg/
Thanks for documenting, showing how easy / straightforward this job really is. I have a 2014 Rex, sheared the M12 right mount bolt on Friday. Thx to your video, I was able to get my car back on the road temporarily by Sunday by gutting the old torn mount, cleaning with soap & water, filling with Polyurethane construction adhesive, reinstalling with a fresh M12-1.75 80mm 10.9 bolt sourced locally. The old mount with the Y-shaped nose is NLA, so I must update the bracket too, which no dealer within 5hrs drive stocks. I drove yesterday pm + today on the repaired mount, seems fine for all but hooning. After watching how much the drivetrian flops around even with the new mount, I intend to make filler pieces to limit this slop for future hooning even after completing the job. Note that there is not enough "meat" around the M12 hole in the old mount bracket to allow it to be safely enlarged to M14. Given the extreme force this mount sees, I'm blowing $160 on the proper bracket instead of risking another failure.
@@312maxon Thank you! Glad it helped you😊
@@BMIKE999 I've had the new bracket since this past Thursday, new mount and proper bolt since last Tuesday, but choose to goof off and drive on the repaired mount all weekend. Despite some hooning with DSC off, still holding strong! I honestly don't hear/feel (I didn't drive with the cover off to actually SEE) any more movement than with the stock mount, despite the tear, but definitely DO hear more noise from the Rex when on. At rest, that side of the drivetrain now effectively sits on hard Polyurethane instead of an oil-filled bladder.
@@312maxon Post video how it moves…
@BMIKE999 You really want to see how the torn/filled mount performs? Since the rubber is torn, I expect it to deform rearward nearly as badly as before I filled it. My fix wasn't intended to be long-term, nor an improvement over the new or old stock mount, just a bandaid to keep me rolling until all of the correct parts arrived.
@@312maxon Oh, I got it👍
Best video i have ever seen. It's rediculously durable because I drove for one year before upgrading my leaked old style motor mount. Just be careful to see if it was getting loosen feeling.
@@kennycheung1928 Thank you!
Thanks for opening it up. Those guys could have just used a solid hard rubber mount but they took the time to design an oil filled rubber mount.
The oil filling is to make the bracket particularly soft. If it were filled with some rubber, it would still be harder and every kick down pressure on the pedal would feel like a small blow. The oil helps to be extra flexible. The lower mounts of the motor are oil-free, where such flexibility is not required. Thanks for your opinion👍
Thank you, your explanation makes the process so simple like changing brake pads :)
@@SDX9000 Thank you!
I don’t even have this car but this is a great video.
Thank you😊
Thanks BMIKE for your great video, just changed my right hand motor mount on a 2016 i3 BEV, 65k miles. I marked the existing E20 bolt and found it was done up to about 95Nm torque, so did it back to up that after replacement.
@@cawkw97 Thanks for update😊
Awesome video! Thanks
@@trytolookbusy Thank you!😊
😮good job my friend 😮❤
@@KukoekKekek Thank you!
thanks for the video. did you had to torque the mount to specs? Thanks
@@andrewyu7403 Thank you! No, I used my hands memory☺️ I think it is important for engine repairs, where microns must be measured.
What year car is this? Woukd the job be much different on a REx?
@@dopiaza2006 It is 2017. I don’t know about rex. Check the pinned link. There are drawings for all models
Is it really necessary to disconnect hv battery with this job?
You need to disconect HV battery if you have any kind of work from/ in engine bay. It takes only a few seconds to disconect it.
+ You need to gently lift engine.
Any error on any step and you are baked. (For example you smash some HV cable with hammer, tool…etc)
!!!The same procedure if you need to change left side, only on left side you don’t have free space!!! There you can touch HV cable many times.
!!!☠️☠️So never work in engine bay if HV battery is connected!!!!☠️☠️
With which torque did you tighten the big screw? And do you have to support the engine in 2 places?
With E20 socket. Support for motor only in 1 place gently rised.
Greetings ...
Great video.. it happens to many people, and BMW has not done anything about it...
Service stations take a lot of money from people for that work because the car's warranty has expired...
I have questions..
Where did you buy the part??
(I know there is an improved version as well)
What is the condition of the other engine mounts?
I'm getting ready to modify the engine mounts on our car.. I bought glue that turns into strong flexible rubber..
I will glue the cracks that have started... and I will glue a bigger tire around to get the same effect as on that bracket you showed (more tires and less stretching)
I see that they are filled with oil... I think that they could also be filled with this rubber-glue... to get strength...
I don't believe that it will affect the vibrations much, especially the rear wheels.
Maybe at least try...
Thank you!
I bought the part in the online shop:
www.hubauer-shop.de/en/carparts/i-models-parts-catalog/i3-meg/
You must compare the part numbers because there is a version with a thicker mounting screw.
For now, the remaining mounts are ok - 120 K per clock.
You can experiment with the glue, but I don't believe you can glue it.
The power of the motor is huge if you push pedal to metal.
I have seen polymer replacements but no experience.
The oil fill could be to achieve a softer vibration reduction with a harder rubber shell. If the whole part were a solid monolith, then the vibration of the motor would be more noticeable and every pedal to metal beat would be audible. But keep do experiments and let know the results😊
Did you change both sides?
@@alanwalters-z5o No, only right side. Left side is ok at 130k…
Great stuff
Thanks😊
BMW service center charged me round $1300 for this job. That is ridiculous price. I don't understand why BMW charge that much. I got ripped off.
@@lupineye Oh, 😑
The entire motor mount was probably replaced, i.e. where the block is screwed on with the Torx. because the engine mounts were changed
Was the quote for both mounts or just 1?
@lupineye ?