Great video I have similar issues, a couple of weeks ago I accidentally drove through a dip in road full of water the noise started shortly after, my mate a retired mechanic suggested it could be the top suspension mount but I’m now thinking it’s a column problem which looks an easy fix 🤞. I’ve only just discovered your channel and I’m very thankful I did !
I’ve done this job as well, and I suspect your issue may be slightly different than described. In case it’s helpful I wanted to share my experience here. BMW recommends a plastic-specific lubricant for that part of the shaft where it makes contact with the rubber shaft seal/housing. And it’s advised to address a squeak rather than a significant change in steering feel/feedback. Lithium grease has petroleum that could degrade the rubber, so I chose not to use it here. I used silicone spray and it seems fine, but haven’t really noticed a difference from that alone. Oh also, loosening the adjustment lever then moving the steering wheel in & out and up & down helps get the lubricant into better contact with all the needed areas on the steering shaft and rubber boot/seal. I went a bit further and removed the u-joint at the base of the steering shaft - it’s just 2 more bolts and alignment is easy because there’s only 4 orientations possible. I did tie off my steering wheel first so it wouldn’t move out of its alignment or spin all the way around and potentially damage the clock spring inside it. I found my u-joint to be quite sticky and in need of a cleanup and re-greasing. It was caked in road grime as well. Many people just add lithium grease here and report success, but that’s not the grease that comes in the joint originally. I used a thick break caliper slide grease because it’s what I had on hand that seemed closer to the factory grease than lithium. While I do love lithium grease and use it all over the place like home door hinges, squeaky office chairs, latches and more… it can get runny over time and drip, especially when hot. I suspect some of this grease may be sliding down the shaft and into the u-joint, which would explain it taking some time/miles to become effective. After cleaning and re-lubricating my u-joint, I worked it around by hand for several minutes and found it got much smoother and easier to move. Once reassembled, it felt like the steering had improved slightly - tho it’s honestly a bit hard to gauge as I’ve been troubleshooting some other handling issues on my particular car. Each change I make helps a bit more, I’ve learned a lot from other owner videos like yours - so thank you for taking the time & effort to share your experience here.
@@rebootninja8036 what a superb reply! Thank you. During the process of filming and editing it did make it wonder if I’m using the right grease. Your point about moving the wheel up and down is genius so will be doing that! Thanks again! Lots of food for thought and we’re all learning! Cheers
Great video - good and clear. And some great comments from other viewers too. I changed my gaiters and top mounts which needed doing anyway, but at the extremes (when reversing into my drive on lock), I can hear a bit of a grouching, so will be trying this soon…. Thanks!
Thanks for this video. I haven’t had this issue with my i3, which is 2019 with 47k miles, but I do have some interior trim rattles from glovebox and door cards - any thoughts on these?
@@simonreeves2017 trim rattles can be a pain. I haven’t had too many yet on the i3. On other cars I’ve tried pushing to really seat the clips. But sometimes you do need to remove trim and replace/reshape clips before refitting. Not something I know much about I’m afraid Good luck!
Try to establish where the sound is coming from.. You have to buy a silicone spray with a straw. Push the straw and lubricate the parts.. Prepare a cloth to wipe... if the silicone leaks somewhere...
@ Thanks for taking the time to respond. I subsequently found the video you refer to, and some others relating to the glovebox rattle issue. In my case it was the damper mechanism tapping against the glovebox tray - fixed by winding some insulation tape around the damper mechanism.
@@woobsmudgeh it’s so hard to remotely diagnose I would give this fix a go as the steering should always be lubricated. Then see if the problem goes away after 50miles or so (to let the lube fully move around). Check the gaiters on the front suspension, they can go, also top mounts for suspension. Get someone else to turn wheel and you ‘should’ be able to see if there’s movement. Good luck!
I had a creaking on full lock coinciding with cold weather starting (19k miles done). Was still under warranty and BMW just replaced steering column. Not sure if this fix would have worked or whether gaiters or something else.
@ gaiters you can generally see. Turn full lock then have a look at the suspension. Normally previous obvious if they’ve gone. Top mounts get someone to turn the wheel and you should see movement. I would hope bmw would check these so you should be good 👍
Thanks. Great video 🙂 Personally I am going to see if I can find an alternative to that product. Due to the resent awareness of how PTFE/Teflon (PFAS products) effect on mens reproductive ability 🧐
Oh wow. Luckily I would expect the risk to matter more to daily use by mechanics rather than the rare times, but will make sure to wear gloves next time. Thanks.
Great video I have similar issues, a couple of weeks ago I accidentally drove through a dip in road full of water the noise started shortly after, my mate a retired mechanic suggested it could be the top suspension mount but I’m now thinking it’s a column problem which looks an easy fix 🤞. I’ve only just discovered your channel and I’m very thankful I did !
@@Robert-yb3gm aahh thanks for the great comment.
It’s a satisfying fix and easy to access so worth having a look. Good luck!
I love a video that gets straight to the point and the solution is a nice easy fix. Thanks!
@@fogartym77 thanks! If you’re giving it a go adjust the steering wheel in and out like others have suggested. Sounds a good extra to do
I’ve done this job as well, and I suspect your issue may be slightly different than described.
In case it’s helpful I wanted to share my experience here.
BMW recommends a plastic-specific lubricant for that part of the shaft where it makes contact with the rubber shaft seal/housing.
And it’s advised to address a squeak rather than a significant change in steering feel/feedback.
Lithium grease has petroleum that could degrade the rubber, so I chose not to use it here.
I used silicone spray and it seems fine, but haven’t really noticed a difference from that alone.
Oh also, loosening the adjustment lever then moving the steering wheel in & out and up & down helps get the lubricant into better contact with all the needed areas on the steering shaft and rubber boot/seal.
I went a bit further and removed the u-joint at the base of the steering shaft - it’s just 2 more bolts and alignment is easy because there’s only 4 orientations possible.
I did tie off my steering wheel first so it wouldn’t move out of its alignment or spin all the way around and potentially damage the clock spring inside it.
I found my u-joint to be quite sticky and in need of a cleanup and re-greasing.
It was caked in road grime as well.
Many people just add lithium grease here and report success, but that’s not the grease that comes in the joint originally. I used a thick break caliper slide grease because it’s what I had on hand that seemed closer to the factory grease than lithium.
While I do love lithium grease and use it all over the place like home door hinges, squeaky office chairs, latches and more… it can get runny over time and drip, especially when hot.
I suspect some of this grease may be sliding down the shaft and into the u-joint, which would explain it taking some time/miles to become effective.
After cleaning and re-lubricating my u-joint, I worked it around by hand for several minutes and found it got much smoother and easier to move.
Once reassembled, it felt like the steering had improved slightly - tho it’s honestly a bit hard to gauge as I’ve been troubleshooting some other handling issues on my particular car.
Each change I make helps a bit more, I’ve learned a lot from other owner videos like yours - so thank you for taking the time & effort to share your experience here.
@@rebootninja8036 what a superb reply! Thank you.
During the process of filming and editing it did make it wonder if I’m using the right grease.
Your point about moving the wheel up and down is genius so will be doing that!
Thanks again! Lots of food for thought and we’re all learning! Cheers
V useful update. Lubrication alone did not resolve the issue for me, moving steering wheel in and out post applying the lubricant fixed it. 👍
@@paulcasey3147 does sound like I need to do that! Thanks also to you, cheers
Great video - good and clear. And some great comments from other viewers too. I changed my gaiters and top mounts which needed doing anyway, but at the extremes (when reversing into my drive on lock), I can hear a bit of a grouching, so will be trying this soon…. Thanks!
@@mc4130 thanks very much! Lovely comment. Cheers
Marine silicon grease works great too, probably the hardest type of lubricant to get washed off by waterspray :-)
Oh nice!
I’m realising that there’s a whole world of lubes I didn’t know existed 😂
Thanks for your help man 👍🏻
Pleasure. Hope it helps. Satisfying fix :)
Great video thanks for the info
Pleasure! Hope it helps
Thanks for this video. I haven’t had this issue with my i3, which is 2019 with 47k miles, but I do have some interior trim rattles from glovebox and door cards - any thoughts on these?
@@simonreeves2017 trim rattles can be a pain. I haven’t had too many yet on the i3. On other cars I’ve tried pushing to really seat the clips. But sometimes you do need to remove trim and replace/reshape clips before refitting. Not something I know much about I’m afraid
Good luck!
Try to establish where the sound is coming from..
You have to buy a silicone spray with a straw.
Push the straw and lubricate the parts..
Prepare a cloth to wipe... if the silicone leaks somewhere...
@ good advice 👍
Wisely did a video on the glove box rattle issue. It's all to do with the hinge.
th-cam.com/video/h2WaArr4RFU/w-d-xo.html
@ Thanks for taking the time to respond. I subsequently found the video you refer to, and some others relating to the glovebox rattle issue. In my case it was the damper mechanism tapping against the glovebox tray - fixed by winding some insulation tape around the damper mechanism.
Good video! I have one i3 Rex, the same colour and weels. BR
@@perfectsoundpursuit007 best colour and wheels! Good choice! Thanks for watching and commenting
I've got a sort of creaking through the steering wheel on ours, is that how you would describe what you were feeling that this resolved?
@@woobsmudgeh it’s so hard to remotely diagnose
I would give this fix a go as the steering should always be lubricated. Then see if the problem goes away after 50miles or so (to let the lube fully move around).
Check the gaiters on the front suspension, they can go, also top mounts for suspension. Get someone else to turn wheel and you ‘should’ be able to see if there’s movement.
Good luck!
I had a creaking on full lock coinciding with cold weather starting (19k miles done). Was still under warranty and BMW just replaced steering column. Not sure if this fix would have worked or whether gaiters or something else.
@ gaiters you can generally see. Turn full lock then have a look at the suspension. Normally previous obvious if they’ve gone.
Top mounts get someone to turn the wheel and you should see movement.
I would hope bmw would check these so you should be good 👍
Thanks. Great video 🙂
Personally I am going to see if I can find an alternative to that product. Due to the resent awareness of how PTFE/Teflon (PFAS products) effect on mens reproductive ability 🧐
Oh wow. Luckily I would expect the risk to matter more to daily use by mechanics rather than the rare times, but will make sure to wear gloves next time. Thanks.