This is one of my favorite Iron Trap builds. I love the style of the ‘33/‘34 coupes and when you couple it with the supercharged Ardun flathead conversion, it can’t get much better than that. Looking forward to seeing this one finished.
You have really solved the "floppies"! Solid floor and solid doors. Moon is the ultimate floor and "optimum dog-riding position" inspector. Whenever I was working on my project cars, the dog foreman was always there inspecting the work. Another great job Matt. Love this channel!
What a beautiful shot of Matt and Moon in the '33 coupe! Please save it for a calendar page. I scratch built a car several years ago using 2 x 3 rectangular tubing for the main frame rails and 1 x 1 square tubing for the hoops which formed the cowl and "A" pillars. I triangulated between the cowl hoops and the front of the frame rails with the 1 x 1 tubing. The firewall, transmission tunnel, and floor pan I made from 11ga cold rolled steel. It ran from the firewall to the trunk opening. The tubing and sheet metal were welded together into one unit while the exterior body panels were bolted on. It formed a remarkably rigid structure which did not bend, rattle or flex. I think nearly the same result is going to come out of the construction method used on the '33 coupe. I'd suggest using the 12ga for the door sills as well.
LOVE the final picture of Matt sitting in the car with his dog! That'd be a great poster! Superb fabrication job- as usual- engineering all that on the "3 window 33!"
Hi Mike, excellent work as is your perfect habit, the only bad thing is that I will have to sue you for the blow I gave myself when the camera fell 😂😂😂 I send you a big hug and blessings to you and your family from Buenos Aires Argentina take good care of themselves and thank you for the video.
I like the way that Hudson utilized the step-down floor to maintain a lowered roofline and the same comfort level of standard car of that era. Great looking build Matt.
Far Out mate keep’em coming. Coz it’s absolutely amazing to see ya growing you’re choices of vehicles would be almost impossible to over here in the uk
Looking really good. I like how your gas welding glasses are even retro. We used to wear them at Budd Co. in NE Philly back in the 70's (they were 30 y.o. then).
It’s looking awesome 😎 Matt!!!!L Seems to be going more smoothly since you have been here before and making it look 👀 a little effortless even though we know it’s not!!!!!!
I am glad to see all the work you are doing to this coupe! Now I have to look for what you used for the subfloor. Thanks this as all helpful. I have some new pieces coming for my coupe rear quarters new panel above and below the trunk. The body I have must have been built with just scraps fiberglass and body filler.
Amazing how well the doors are fitting now that you found the flexing issue. Floor looks great, wish I could find good material at my local scrap yard!
Nice job on the floor Matt, I have 14 gauge in the front half of my ‘32 roadster & bead rolled Brookville from the front of the seat subframe, through to the rear of the trunk. That ‘33 is going to be one very cool 😎 Hotrod 👍👍👍🇬🇧.
My Dad has a 1930 5 Window.. 3 Strombergs. Offy Intake. Old 283. No Flathead.Papa told me the Old Airport Landing Strip Model A 90MPH Total 360 & Straightened it out, WOW Car was named SWEET THANG. Ran up with Guy in ASE Training. Remember he had Shop full of complete Flatheds. $300-? CHEAP! Not any more im sure! But maybe
I love welding...but hate the fact that you have to go so slow with welding the floor up to prevent warping like body panels...but that's the reason it takes time to build and re-fabricate on builds and restorations! But it's addictive! I did it for over 20 years! Miss it
Morning Matt, the floor is looking good my friend!! I have to ask, what gauge material did you use for the floor? Moon looks like he approves of your work!! Be safe, God Bless!!
It’s 14 gauge. My ‘32 roadster has the same, super strong and as Matt said, it doesn’t need to be bead rolled. The only difference is my front section is bolted down using mushroom head bolts. The only downside is that it’s a bit of a pain to take out !
Looks great . When you were marking the bolt holes , was that for the sub rails ? And do you fit the floor over the bolts or do you remove the bolts and then reinstall?
It's gonna be sweet riding around your downtown on weekend nights when it's finished burnin' rubber in parking lots and outta the way streets no cops around to bust you. Not to mention all the shows you'll be taking it to.
Great progress, she's a comin together very nicely ... look forward to the next reveal. Moon hay dad we are not moving .... LOL whats wrong, oh yea no running and built "Arden"
Thanks good insight! Great detail and look. Question I’m an older guy and on that rear panel could one use a planishing hammer to work that thick sheet metal into the shape it needed to be?
![โอ้เธอช่าง... - บี้เดอะสกา ft. ต๋อง เทวัญ (Prod. by ป๋าเพชร) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zbWhiLFmVL0/mqdefault.jpg)
This is one of my favorite Iron Trap builds. I love the style of the ‘33/‘34 coupes and when you couple it with the supercharged Ardun flathead conversion, it can’t get much better than that. Looking forward to seeing this one finished.
You have really solved the "floppies"! Solid floor and solid doors. Moon is the ultimate floor and "optimum dog-riding position" inspector. Whenever I was working on my project cars, the dog foreman was always there inspecting the work. Another great job Matt. Love this channel!
Love this style...you give your cars just what they need!
What a beautiful shot of Matt and Moon in the '33 coupe! Please save it for a calendar page. I scratch built a car several years ago using 2 x 3 rectangular tubing for the main frame rails and 1 x 1 square tubing for the hoops which formed the cowl and "A" pillars. I triangulated between the cowl hoops and the front of the frame rails with the 1 x 1 tubing. The firewall, transmission tunnel, and floor pan I made from 11ga cold rolled steel. It ran from the firewall to the trunk opening. The tubing and sheet metal were welded together into one unit while the exterior body panels were bolted on. It formed a remarkably rigid structure which did not bend, rattle or flex. I think nearly the same result is going to come out of the construction method used on the '33 coupe. I'd suggest using the 12ga for the door sills as well.
LOVE the final picture of Matt sitting in the car with his dog! That'd be a great poster!
Superb fabrication job- as usual- engineering all that on the "3 window 33!"
Great video Matt!!!! The plasma cutter works awesome!!!!! Great progress on the 33. Thanks for sharing!!!!
Making old things new again has got to be the most satisfying result of the work you do. Looks good Mat.
He does real good work
Hi Mike, excellent work as is your perfect habit, the only bad thing is that I will have to sue you for the blow I gave myself when the camera fell 😂😂😂 I send you a big hug and blessings to you and your family from Buenos Aires Argentina take good care of themselves and thank you for the video.
I like the way that Hudson utilized the step-down floor to maintain a lowered roofline and the same comfort level of standard car of that era.
Great looking build Matt.
Great job with the fabrication of that floor. It’s getting there. Should be a nice ride when complete. Thank you for sharing
Its MOON APROVED, great floor tin work as usuall, lol
Love this project! Coming along nicely. when you do the piece in the back you'll have a nice "tool tray" like my 37!
I agree!
Your dog looks into the camera!!! +20!!!
Moon can't wait to get on the road again.
Great video. I love the “ Armstrong “ and “ knee action “ sheet metal bending.
Keeping it simple! Haha
great Job MKatt, and glad to9 see Steve taking an active role on video...
... and the award for best vroom vroom scene goes to Matt and Moon.
Far Out mate keep’em coming. Coz it’s absolutely amazing to see ya growing you’re choices of vehicles would be almost impossible to over here in the uk
I was thinking he's not going to lay that floor on top of those bolt heads. Then.. oh of course. Nice work Matt!
To cool.... love it...keep doing what your doing Moon 🌙 is ready to go cruisin great video ty Steve
Moon is ready to ride!
Excellent work on the floor. Definitely shows your skill set. 🇦🇺🇦🇺👍👍
Love the Moon!
Thanks Matt for providing this entertainment. You guy's are a great team. I love the cars.
Moon says let's go for a ride and get some treats! LOL
Always love your vids. But, leaving a bit of humor in, is great!
Also.... great to see Moon getting to hang out, on camera!
Looking really good. I like how your gas welding glasses are even retro. We used to wear them at Budd Co. in NE Philly back in the 70's (they were 30 y.o. then).
Haha yep! I buy them whenever I see them for cheap at swap meets!
Matt, Moon looks as though he is ready to ride. The floor looks fantastic, c's-ya sunday.
It’s looking awesome 😎 Matt!!!!L Seems to be going more smoothly since you have been here before and making it look 👀 a little effortless even though we know it’s not!!!!!!
THANKS FOR SHARING GREAT VID
thank goodness could not have asked for a better video to be posted today i was basically going in blind on floors for my project today
Great video. love this build. And that Moon, he's a handsome lad..
Moon is so awesome, love that dog!
Cool flooring that you created in this video. Like how it’s flat and how you shaped the rear section with the pipes…
I am glad to see all the work you are doing to this coupe! Now I have to look for what you used for the subfloor. Thanks this as all helpful. I have some new pieces coming for my coupe rear quarters new panel above and below the trunk. The body I have must have been built with just scraps fiberglass and body filler.
Nice work! I’m diggin the 40 Ford dash
Amazing how well the doors are fitting now that you found the flexing issue. Floor looks great, wish I could find good material at my local scrap yard!
Nice job on the floor Matt, I have 14 gauge in the front half of my ‘32 roadster & bead rolled Brookville from the front of the seat subframe, through to the rear of the trunk. That ‘33 is going to be one very cool 😎 Hotrod 👍👍👍🇬🇧.
Definitely moon approved
14 gauge floors? Wow!! They'll add some structural rigidity for sure!!
Cool. I love it.
Hi matt mike moon and seve nice to see you doing some more work on the 33 comeing along nicely greating to you all ofr the festive season
Good work! Brent at Halfass Kustoms put floorboards in his hot rod this week as well.
Great job guys, you are going to have to fabricate a Moon seat! Thanks for the video
Wow 14 gauge I would never have thought to use that much steel . That should make it so much stiffer !
Nice job 👍 she’s going to be solid 😎
Looking good Moon.
Moon approves!
Every time I get into my Hot Rod I floor it😉
Coming along really nice
Looks Moon approved. Very nice.
Nice work!
My Dad has a 1930 5 Window.. 3 Strombergs. Offy Intake. Old 283. No Flathead.Papa told me the Old Airport Landing Strip Model A 90MPH Total 360 & Straightened it out, WOW Car was named SWEET THANG. Ran up with Guy in ASE Training. Remember he had Shop full of complete Flatheds. $300-? CHEAP! Not any more im sure! But maybe
Great vid!!!
You are the best!
Nice job
great work thank you
Nice work
I love welding...but hate the fact that you have to go so slow with welding the floor up to prevent warping like body panels...but that's the reason it takes time to build and re-fabricate on builds and restorations!
But it's addictive! I did it for over 20 years!
Miss it
Moon is ready to ride. Shot gun!!!!!!
Good to watch you progressing with build, there’s not going to be much headroom though once you have seats in?
Ouch man that hurt 😞
At 16:38, I was like "WTH is that!" moving around inside the car?
Morning Matt, the floor is looking good my friend!! I have to ask, what gauge material did you use for the floor? Moon looks like he approves of your work!! Be safe, God Bless!!
14 Gauge
I think he said 14 guage
It’s 14 gauge. My ‘32 roadster has the same, super strong and as Matt said, it doesn’t need to be bead rolled. The only difference is my front section is bolted down using mushroom head bolts. The only downside is that it’s a bit of a pain to take out !
I'm loving this build. What's the dash out of? I haven't been able to place it, but I like the look of it.
Narrowed 40 Ford
The floor is coming along great. Which is a more satisfying win? Floor or doors lining up?
Hmm tough one but probably the doors because I was dreading that job so much!
Looks great . When you were marking the bolt holes , was that for the sub rails ? And do you fit the floor over the bolts or do you remove the bolts and then reinstall?
It's gonna be sweet riding around your downtown on weekend nights when it's finished burnin' rubber in parking lots and outta the way streets no cops around to bust you.
Not to mention all the shows you'll be taking it to.
Great Video.
#STAYSAFE
#PHILLYPHILLY 🇺🇸
Moon be like, tail wagging approval of your floor, he makes these videos !
Great progress, she's a comin together very nicely ... look forward to the next reveal. Moon hay dad we are not moving .... LOL whats wrong, oh yea no running and built "Arden"
Love this project. The one thing I hope is that the engine is set back for radiator room. I hate to see the grille forward of the front wheels.
The grill is forward of the wheels from stock on a 33/4..
Thanks good insight! Great detail and look. Question I’m an older guy and on that rear panel could one use a planishing hammer to work that thick sheet metal into the shape it needed to be?
Too thick for a planishing hammer.
@@IronTrapGarage thanks
Like how y'all use your bellies to bend the metal... LOL
Got up early watching this video. Just thinking out loud, can you install a1948 ford front axle and hubs onto a 1932 Ford ?
6:35 You could have used a light weight hammer to mark the head of the bolts.
Good idea!
Matt how are you going to treat all of the concealed surface’s from rust ?
He usually uses Eastwood Rust Encapsulator on bare metal.
So....Is it that the thicker sheet metal doesn't need beading? or that it's too thick to add beads? Nice video.
He explains it at the beginning of the video.
It is thicker and doesn’t necessitate beading for strength
Most likely the reason there was not much bead work was because nearly all rods were built in home garages.
i kepted yelling move the saw horse, but you did'nt hear me
When moon is visible I don’t hear anything you’re saying!
Kinda looks like the bottom of a Tesla!
What a flaw-less result...ok im leaving!