I just had my 6R80 Gearbox rebuilt on my 2014 Ranger. There are two bushings/seals on the torque converter that started leaking. This caused the Gearbox to shift very dramatically due to lack of oil pressure. I also hade to replace the flanshe on the transfer case due to a oil leak. Luckily the shop that does this installed so called upgraded parts that lasts longer. The owner of the shop said that he also recommends draining that 4l of oil every 55 000 to 75 000 and then only on the second service should you change the filter with the 8l of ATF (2l -3l is in the torque converter). But the biggest issue are those twe seals/bushes on the torque converter that is a ticking time bomb. Thanks for your videos mate. You saved me allot of money over the years.
Ripper video as always mate. Recently got a 2019 Ranger XL 4x4 with the 2.2l. Took it in to get the auto services, flushed and add the bypass valve. Off to the mechanic in a few weeks to get the intake cleaned, block the EGR and bypass EGR cooler and add a secondary fuel filter. Then will service it every 7500km, making sure replace all filters each service. Looking forward to your future content, it's always great viewing 🍻
I change the whole transmission from my ford ranger wildtrack, 3 months ago, if I knew about this it would have saved me a ton of money. Thank you for the advice.
You nailed it in this video. I changed to a 50dg value plus a proper coller on and a larger sump, which holds 2lt more oil. I also change the oil every year. It's a good insurance policy to get a but life span. Great video.
I love the info you share on your channel, you have helped me so much already. Thanks for this awesome video, as I have 330k on the clock and do have some minor transmission issues (not-smooth shifting, etc). This info will save me replacing the transmission. I'll start changing fluid more regularly too.
... to a certain extent you are correct about the service intervals ... these transmissions are excellent ... BUT the R6 HP26 transmission also has a lower torque rating than the later ZF 6HP28 as fitted to BMW's and some later Fords ... these cope much better with Aussie conditions ... having said that .. the easy fix for most of these issues is as you recommend .. earlier service oil and filter changes and with regard the mechatronic unit/valve body a check of the solenoid activation/valve sealing and then if required installation of a a Sonnax 'Zip Kit' which is a HIGHLY regarded mod and sorts most upshift/downshift irregularities ... Cheers.
I agree with your service interval recommendations. I wouldn’t sweat the fluid color too much. Mercon LV is known to go darker quickly. The red dye color disappears relatively fast. Royal Purple engine oil does the same thing. It also goes dark quickly, but is still effective as a lubricant. Change out the fluid regularly, and your trans will live for a long time. I have two Ford 6-speeds. One with 83k in a 2014 Fusion, and one with 148k in a 2011 F-150. Never a hiccup from either unit. I perform a fluid change every 30-40k miles.
I had a Falcon with 5R55 and it played the moment it was serviced professionally with Penrite synthetic. I put it back on Mercon V and fixed it. So ever since then I only use Mercon LV in these 6R80's and never have an issue. Just sample the trans oil every 25,000k looking for colour change. My current vehicle initially played up at 20,000 km and I replaced thermostat and valve body plate/gasket with later model Ranger plate/gasket. It is now up to 120,000k and trans oil is acceptable colour. Very occasionally flairs a gear change but it always has so I'm not too worried.
Hey mate, love your videos. You are a providing a real service by offering up your time, knowledge, and experience. It's greatly appreciated. I'd like to ask a question if you have the time to answer. I'm looking at buying a Ford ranger and the budget is $30k. My thought is to get the PX1 3.2 auto, late 2015 with the face lift (projector style head lights). I'm wanting to avoid a DPF that appears to be fitted from 2016 onwards and I'm aiming for under 130k km. Would you have any reason (mechanical reliability wise) to look at a different year or series?
the only big issue with the PX1 was the EGR Cooler failing, just make sure it's been bypassed or replaced other than that all other issues are minor providing it's had regular maintenance & filter replacements.
My 2017 2.2 4x4 ranger needed the converter wear ring replaced after the valve body to make the flare ups go away. Beware of shops supplying you with a new valvebody when you also need a converter, as the converter could contaminate the the new valvebody if the converter was previously damaged ( my friction strip was gone completely ). These transmission do have controlled slip and stall features, but they can also have real converter slip from failing causing flareups as compensation. Converter puts more metal and debree in the oil than the clutch packs check for yourself.
@teenage5560 Max rpm's during normal driving. Uphill especially the engine would overpower the converter making it slip. Gearbox sees the slip and calls for overdrive gear hence the flare up in rpms. Drivetrain malfunction when you start to cook the oil. My fix was Transgo TCC Lube regulator kit. Transgo shift kit Cooler bypass valve Converter rebuild New bridge seal Drives brand new and the oil stays cool and clean.
Valvebody repair was more expensive than the converter rebuild. So do the converter first and see if its needed to do the valvebody. Valvebody can be done with the transmission in the vehicle. I have a feeling that I would have gotten away with converter and fluids only.
thanks for the information, actually u can just fill up the transmission from the side, turn the wheel all th way, just remove the dust cover and fill it up using a flexible funnel
Don’t forget the torque converter issues, well known to sheer the backing plate…..I’ve recently changed the valve body on mine, and also upgraded the TC
Fit a external oil cooler, most do not have a external oil cooler at all, converters also gave problems along with what you have said, also a good idea is to change all the fluid every 20.000 ks
EXCEPT ... that is a VERY expensive option if you have to pay full retail for the special trans oil that is specified ... you cannot (should not ?) use common Dextron Auto trans oil that WILL lead to tears ... a LARGER external Oil cooler is a very good idea for Aussie conditions ... BUT the software settings for these ZF transmissions will inhibit certain shift modes (ie converter lock up ?) until normal working temperature of the oil is sensed by the mechatronic unit internal sensors ....
@@stejac51 have owned a trans shop in nz since 1980, oil is the cheapest item in fixed/prolonging the life of a trans, often the oil level is over looked so regularly servicing is a cheap option. Quite a few options in aftermarket parts to fix valve bodies and converter issues. After market oil coolers are a must in nz as well
It only takes 15min of hot temp to kill fluid .Fit aftermarket transmission cooler and you can chain fluid every 80k instead. Otherwise You are treating symptoms not cause. Get scanguage and look at temps it takes 15mins of driving around hills to get temps upto 110-120celcius , as soon as i saw it. I got aftermarket cooler
I have an issue up from ~70km where I will have RPM fluctuations 1.5-1.8 or so when maintaining a steady speed. Acceleration will also feel rough occasionally, haven’t been able to diagnose the issue
Hmmm i thought it was torque converter slip in the programming that caused slippage from 2nd to 3rd when the car was under load. If in sport mode and towing it does the 2-3 shift with no slip at all, unless I shifted way to early and it needs the converter slip to not big down.
Hey brother, i’ve got a bit of a problem for my Px2 ranger 2017 wildtrak. So when coming to a stop there’s extremely late gear change which causes the car to jerk. when coming off a red light there’s also a tug which happens when the transmission engages. Could it be the valve body?
@ i had a transmission service a couple of weeks ago, i’m not too sure what fluid they used as i usually put Mercon V in myself. But i’ll get back to you once i drain the fluid out. Cheers legend 🤙🏾
Hey mate, apparently the timing case on the 3.2 PX2 are prone to leaking, have you had any issues with your previous ranger, could be a good future video if it's a common issue. Love your guides and videos btw!
I just had my 6R80 Gearbox rebuilt on my 2014 Ranger.
There are two bushings/seals on the torque converter that started leaking. This caused the Gearbox to shift very dramatically due to lack of oil pressure.
I also hade to replace the flanshe on the transfer case due to a oil leak. Luckily the shop that does this installed so called upgraded parts that lasts longer. The owner of the shop said that he also recommends draining that 4l of oil every 55 000 to 75 000 and then only on the second service should you change the filter with the 8l of ATF (2l -3l is in the torque converter). But the biggest issue are those twe seals/bushes on the torque converter that is a ticking time bomb.
Thanks for your videos mate.
You saved me allot of money over the years.
Ripper video as always mate. Recently got a 2019 Ranger XL 4x4 with the 2.2l. Took it in to get the auto services, flushed and add the bypass valve. Off to the mechanic in a few weeks to get the intake cleaned, block the EGR and bypass EGR cooler and add a secondary fuel filter. Then will service it every 7500km, making sure replace all filters each service.
Looking forward to your future content, it's always great viewing 🍻
I change the whole transmission from my ford ranger wildtrack, 3 months ago, if I knew about this it would have saved me a ton of money.
Thank you for the advice.
Thankyou Sir , May THE LORD continue to bless and keep .
You nailed it in this video. I changed to a 50dg value plus a proper coller on and a larger sump, which holds 2lt more oil. I also change the oil every year. It's a good insurance policy to get a but life span. Great video.
I love the info you share on your channel, you have helped me so much already. Thanks for this awesome video, as I have 330k on the clock and do have some minor transmission issues (not-smooth shifting, etc). This info will save me replacing the transmission. I'll start changing fluid more regularly too.
... to a certain extent you are correct about the service intervals ... these transmissions are excellent ... BUT the R6 HP26 transmission also has a lower torque rating than the later ZF 6HP28 as fitted to BMW's and some later Fords ... these cope much better with Aussie conditions ... having said that .. the easy fix for most of these issues is as you recommend .. earlier service oil and filter changes and with regard the mechatronic unit/valve body a check of the solenoid activation/valve sealing and then if required installation of a a Sonnax 'Zip Kit' which is a HIGHLY regarded mod and sorts most upshift/downshift irregularities
... Cheers.
I agree with your service interval recommendations. I wouldn’t sweat the fluid color too much. Mercon LV is known to go darker quickly. The red dye color disappears relatively fast. Royal Purple engine oil does the same thing. It also goes dark quickly, but is still effective as a lubricant. Change out the fluid regularly, and your trans will live for a long time. I have two Ford 6-speeds. One with 83k in a 2014 Fusion, and one with 148k in a 2011 F-150. Never a hiccup from either unit. I perform a fluid change every 30-40k miles.
I had a Falcon with 5R55 and it played the moment it was serviced professionally with Penrite synthetic. I put it back on Mercon V and fixed it. So ever since then I only use Mercon LV in these 6R80's and never have an issue. Just sample the trans oil every 25,000k looking for colour change. My current vehicle initially played up at 20,000 km and I replaced thermostat and valve body plate/gasket with later model Ranger plate/gasket. It is now up to 120,000k and trans oil is acceptable colour. Very occasionally flairs a gear change but it always has so I'm not too worried.
Been using Penrite in my 6R80 for 5 years. O shifting or flaring issues.
Hey mate, love your videos. You are a providing a real service by offering up your time, knowledge, and experience. It's greatly appreciated.
I'd like to ask a question if you have the time to answer. I'm looking at buying a Ford ranger and the budget is $30k. My thought is to get the PX1 3.2 auto, late 2015 with the face lift (projector style head lights). I'm wanting to avoid a DPF that appears to be fitted from 2016 onwards and I'm aiming for under 130k km. Would you have any reason (mechanical reliability wise) to look at a different year or series?
the only big issue with the PX1 was the EGR Cooler failing, just make sure it's been bypassed or replaced other than that all other issues are minor providing it's had regular maintenance & filter replacements.
DPF started in october 2016 , i have a july built px2 tray back extra cab with some sensible adjustments and 97,000kays , what state are you in mate ?
@@abdautomotive Thank you. Very helpful!
@@BCBtrucks64 Hey mate, I'm in VIC, what about you?
My 2017 2.2 4x4 ranger needed the converter wear ring replaced after the valve body to make the flare ups go away. Beware of shops supplying you with a new valvebody when you also need a converter, as the converter could contaminate the the new valvebody if the converter was previously damaged ( my friction strip was gone completely ). These transmission do have controlled slip and stall features, but they can also have real converter slip from failing causing flareups as compensation. Converter puts more metal and debree in the oil than the clutch packs check for yourself.
What were the symptoms of your transmission issue?
@teenage5560 Max rpm's during normal driving. Uphill especially the engine would overpower the converter making it slip. Gearbox sees the slip and calls for overdrive gear hence the flare up in rpms. Drivetrain malfunction when you start to cook the oil.
My fix was Transgo TCC Lube regulator kit.
Transgo shift kit
Cooler bypass valve
Converter rebuild
New bridge seal
Drives brand new and the oil stays cool and clean.
@ this is my exact issue, appreciate you. Would love to speak a little more get some more advice on how to approach the issue
Valvebody repair was more expensive than the converter rebuild. So do the converter first and see if its needed to do the valvebody. Valvebody can be done with the transmission in the vehicle. I have a feeling that I would have gotten away with converter and fluids only.
Mate you are a Legend 💪🫡
Thank you for your video 🫡
Fit a scan gauge to monitor the transmission temperature and adjust driving to suit.
Great information 👍🏽 👌
thanks for the information, actually u can just fill up the transmission from the side, turn the wheel all th way, just remove the dust cover and fill it up using a flexible funnel
Muchisimas gracias, desde argentina
Don’t forget the torque converter issues, well known to sheer the backing plate…..I’ve recently changed the valve body on mine, and also upgraded the TC
Sometimes it is worth putting a Sonnax kit in the valve body, much the same as for the ZF6HP2X boxes.
Good video, what about the OD light flashing
Fit a external oil cooler, most do not have a external oil cooler at all, converters also gave problems along with what you have said, also a good idea is to change all the fluid every 20.000 ks
EXCEPT ... that is a VERY expensive option if you have to pay full retail for the special trans oil that is specified ... you cannot (should not ?) use common Dextron Auto trans oil that WILL lead to tears ... a LARGER external Oil cooler is a very good idea for Aussie conditions ... BUT the software settings for these ZF transmissions will inhibit certain shift modes (ie converter lock up ?) until normal working temperature of the oil is sensed by the mechatronic unit internal sensors ....
@@stejac51 have owned a trans shop in nz since 1980, oil is the cheapest item in fixed/prolonging the life of a trans, often the oil level is over looked so regularly servicing is a cheap option. Quite a few options in aftermarket parts to fix valve bodies and converter issues. After market oil coolers are a must in nz as well
It only takes 15min of hot temp to kill fluid .Fit aftermarket transmission cooler and you can chain fluid every 80k instead. Otherwise You are treating symptoms not cause. Get scanguage and look at temps it takes 15mins of driving around hills to get temps upto 110-120celcius , as soon as i saw it. I got aftermarket cooler
I have an issue up from ~70km where I will have RPM fluctuations 1.5-1.8 or so when maintaining a steady speed. Acceleration will also feel rough occasionally, haven’t been able to diagnose the issue
I change every 40k... i ran with a separate transmission cooler and a thermal bypass valve
Hmmm i thought it was torque converter slip in the programming that caused slippage from 2nd to 3rd when the car was under load. If in sport mode and towing it does the 2-3 shift with no slip at all, unless I shifted way to early and it needs the converter slip to not big down.
Hi,
Can you upload the detailed video of the Transmission fluid change you did.
It's on his channel, along with many other useful videos :) Just go to the channel page and search on "transmission"
The RWD diesel Territories had that box as well, absolute pig of a thing for towing.
Better off with an Isuzu if you are doing any towing.
common problems: plastic molded lead frame, bulkhead connector leak to transfer case, solenoids, valve body. diagnose properly
the lead frame , bulkhead connector & solenoids are all part of the valve body and are serviceable when the valve body is removed.
Did mine at 80,000 klms and will be doing it again soon at 150,000.
The fluid colour is a dye and isn't a great way of checking oil quality.
Hey brother, i’ve got a bit of a problem for my Px2 ranger 2017 wildtrak. So when coming to a stop there’s extremely late gear change which causes the car to jerk. when coming off a red light there’s also a tug which happens when the transmission engages. Could it be the valve body?
i would change fluid first, see if that fixes it , if not i would be looking at valve body, when was your last fluid change?
@ i had a transmission service a couple of weeks ago, i’m not too sure what fluid they used as i usually put Mercon V in myself. But i’ll get back to you once i drain the fluid out. Cheers legend 🤙🏾
@ yeh check the fluid type , it’s got to be 6r80 or 6hp26 specific, they don’t like taking anything else and will play up.
@ Where i live at the moment i can’t get any MERCON V, what other fluid would you recommend?
@ Royal syntrans LV or ZF lifeguard , they are the only other 2 i know that meet the specs besides Mercon LV.
Ich habe einen Ranger 3.2 2017 mit 55tkm und habe genau die Probleme welche du aufzählst
Hey mate, apparently the timing case on the 3.2 PX2 are prone to leaking, have you had any issues with your previous ranger, could be a good future video if it's a common issue. Love your guides and videos btw!
Yes it is, and it’s a pain to change…..
A video on this would be great
My user manual said transmission is “full for life” .. BS! .. change the fluid (or have it changed) about every 50k mi.
This is why there should be manal gear boxes l hate auto
LoL 😂
Hey mate, I have a video idea for you, where can I message you?
Isn't the oil always black and new oil is just colored. You can't always judge only based on color.
Goes that colour before 50 thousands
Did everyone here go with a Wholesale Automatic nomad valve job and bypass valve?