I've Built the HEAVIEST Toyota MR-S in the World
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 มิ.ย. 2024
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Music (all from Artlist)
To The New Horizons - Ardie Son
Timelines - Charlie Ryan
Solar Flare - Adi Goldstein
Feeling Alright - Mastersound
PUNKD - Out of Flux
Donde Candelilla Hubo - Tino van der Sman
Memory Street - Bob Hart
Booty Calls - Randy Sharp
Escape to Siciliy - Louis Adrien
00:00 - MR-S Recap three million and six
00:35 - appeasing the metric elitists
01:00 - my GLTC MR-S build philosophy
01:43 - skip to 04:34 if you're tik-tok brained
04:34 - people used to Moby Dick for entertainment
04:40 - I really just wanted an excuse to eat on camera
06:39 - any other MR-S owners ever do this?
08:07 - Mark, Unsupervised
08:48 - we have a discount code for Fortune Autos (description)
09:57 - i could eat just Milanos forever
10:08 - this was $650 in weight plates
10:39 - when he said "it's weldin' time" and welded all over
11:08 - intercutting sequences for alternating narratives
12:59 - turns out 400lbs is a lot of weight
14:51 - don't act like you're too good for dominos
16:05 - best flavor is the Colbert one
18:58 - this stuff worked good but doesn't hold up to skin oils
20:09 - just weight til we switch out the lightweight battery - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
You should add cloth between the weights, acts like a mini shock and sound absorber. That way when you're screaming around the track you don't hear the inside of a gym in your car
That’s a great idea! I agree, add cloth or thin rubber mats because it will definitely start to rattle after a few laps from the vibrations.
for as smart as this youtuber is, he sure does some interesting things that have pretty common sense solutions he leaves out. lol
You would need like an inch of denim to make any real difference. Just trying to stop a license plate from rattling from a subwoofer is WAY harder than you'd think. He's far better off using 1/2" rubber matting.
@@NoMoreBsPlease😊
@@NoMoreBsPlease harder? no. requires some thought? yes.
Would you consider adding chasis braces? It would make the car stiffer and heavier. Maybe even a steel brush plate
I would put the ballast weight UNDER the car, as flat as possible, (lower weight = better handling) and move the stiffer springs to the front of that tail happy beast. Tuning the suspension means actually tuning it not just going with what Toyota did. That car needs more than just wider tires to not swap ends. You are so right about the chasis braces and heavy plate.
Also thr weight should have been equal to ben' weight in right side , im counting 290lb and ben is 180lb i think.
They should redistribute the rest of the ballast on the rear mid
@@KNAPPAIDyou’re forgetting the added weight of his seat and his racing gear, the seat alone will probably put him at 200, with the added weight of his helmet and other gear putting him at 210 at most. Still a little unbalanced but I’m sure it’ll be fine
@@brandonmiller9155 yeah my bad i did
@@craigsawyer6453 This is not an SW20. the ZZW30 has an extended wheelbase of almost a foot compared to the old MR2 and is very hard to swap ends with. It's far easier in an S2000. this is no Porsche 911 Turbo from 1978. You're exaggerating heavily based on myths made by older REAR engined cars and an MR2 that had a horrible weight distribution due to a cast iron block and far more weight nearer the rear axle.
Mark is becoming a very good host in no time! Good job man
*Marc
*Mahc
agreed1
Mahrkc*
How about fabricating some braces to make the chasis more rigid while adding some weight? Building some heavy duty underside metal skid plate (not a diffuser by the way *wink wink*) also could be a good way to add some more low CG ballast.
Ultimate
Definitely wouldn't be enough but would be the place to start
I came here to comment this. I don't know why they didn't just go with bracing. The bracing available for this car is fairly extensive. Just build it in thick walled steel, you'll easily pick up a ton of weight that way.
I like the idea of some underbody protection. Maybe a smooth underbody for better aero could also be added? With countersunk bolts so the car is still serviceable. It could help with aero.
Why are you winking? Are you ok
@@pauledwards6446I think he got something in his eye.
Sight gag of Ben bulking throughout the ep was gold.
Thank you for including the metric values ❤
We need a new series dedicated to Mark's s2000 build! He is killing it
I'm a 2ar-fxe spyder owner, hello :) If your bhp figure isn't accurate, e.g. those dyno figures over read your power, then right now your ballasting yourself to slow down the horse power you don't really have. A really good idea would be to dyno it at a few different places and see how the power figures compare. Ballasting for power you don't will make you very noncompetitive indeed! Mine only makes about 166hp at the wheels, and 200 at the flywheel. Its a fast car though, 13.3 second quarter mile on road tarmac and 4.45 second 0-60.
I think the carrara gt and the McLaren f1 proved you cant do an awesome power to weight ration in a mid engine car on the track without massive amounts of down force.
Mc F1 had underbody fans that produced a lot of downforce
I’d love to see it all one color. Great video, great info, and great series, but I really wanna see the car painted!
I commented this in a reply, but I like the idea of some underbody protection. A smooth underbody for better aero could also be added, with countersunk bolts so the car is still serviceable. It would add weight down low.
But would it give him a penalty and make him need to add more weight?
@@brandonmiller9155 Not sure. Good to check. You can make an underbody REEEAL heavy though. Esp with thick steel.
Came here to comment this.
@@evankirschenmann4653 that way all the weight ur adding is also literally about as far down low as it can be, and is also spread out super niceley
Unfortunately that isn’t allowed in GLTC. But it would be a big help.
Love the cutting back and forth between work on the car and Tall Ben's mukbang
It would have been interesting if you did some acceleration and braking tests before and after
so much negativity in the comments on this one, i know the gridlife/track thing spoiled the final look of the car but it’s the journey that makes it special in the first place. Don’t let people be negative behind their screens and keep doing what you’re doing!
You should do what the world rally championship cars do. They have an air restrictor and HP limit, so they make crazy torque and RPM limit the engine to stay under the ~350 HP limit.
That only works with turbo cars. Also Gridlife has a thing in the rules that prohibits having too flat a torque curve.
They've thought of that, there's a weight penalty for too flat a power curve.
I remember the R32-GTR Skylines setup by Gibson Motorsport that were competing in Bathurst, Australia back in the day had weight added. And they still won convincingly.
Add an aerodynamic undertray! Free top speed, reduces lift and adds weight at the lowest possible point of the car!
Ben Lin's sense of humor is underrated.
Something I did to cut my strut mounting area is use a hydraulic knockout punch kit on my MK7 GTI to get more camber adjustment without dismounting the coil-overs. Worked extremely well and cut a clean hole.
For a quick and dirty way to achieve the regulation demands that does seem like a good plan in the limited time frame.but i would do things a little bit differently instead of just directly adding ballast.
1- Since the rules consider the peak HP i would try to work a new tune with lower timing in the peak of the hp curve to have for example a constant 215hp in the rpm range you are gonna race instead of a 230hp peak.
2- Considering the car gets weighted with the tank empty instead of full in combination with #1 since e85 is not only has a higher density in weight but a lower density in energy going back to gasoline would allow you to run less fuel and most importantly less weight during the race and that's important especially when you consider as said before fuel weight does not affect the minimal weight.
3- Although the car has a cage already if you are already adding weight why not add it in the form of chassis bracing to improve rigidity as a consequence at the end of the day as much as the zz30 chassis is great it still is 25 years old so every bit of bracing is better that gym weights and if it is connecting points like sub-frame/suspension mounts an the bottom of the car is pretty much the best place to add weight.
4- with everything done as great as the single ballast mount looks great you are still raising that weight rising you center of gravity so bolt those to the floor and in two places for the lowest mounting location possible.
and those are just simple observations without reading or knowing anything from the rulebook if you guys really wanna be competitive im SURE there is a lot more that can be exploited
Put some of the interior back in, make it more comfortable to drive and gain some weight
Love it. What about putting a plate or two center in the frunk? Also like the move of just bolting down lead deep water fishing weights. Want to add weight and corner balance to perfection?
I commend your dedication to the bit, that was hilarious!
Hi guys, thank you for the metric system numbers! You can laugh on this but now it is much easier to understand, good job!❤
Put the dash back lol
I like the build and the filming is ace, as per
Love the vid, but I’m sick and was watching this in a library when I should’ve been doing homework and I legit started to fall asleep during your Kahn Academy section
I hope you get the handling sorted out because it's the car's best feature. Lots of other folks have success with this chassis on track
I really enjoyed you guys showed the weight in kilograms! Best channel ever!
Depending on regulations, you could look into spring suspension of the ballast. Helps with stability, and strut/shock life.
Add some heavy duty sound deadening material that should add some weight and creature comfort.
1/4 in steel floor pan on the Mr2: Add 400ish pounds, AND drop that center of gravity right down.
BOOM next question 😂
man, cant wait to see it in action!
I gotta know what y'all are doing for roll center on the front struts
As a european, I really like the fact you added weight in kilogram, makes way more sense, thanks!
It's already cut but u can do camber from below or get offset top hat. Good luck with thicc mrs
You should look into a cusco breastplate for the car. helps a bit and gives you street cred. they cost like 130 bux, helps tie the underside together
I’m surprised you didn’t add some features back in, like hood/trunk struts, chassis bracing, etc.
You really need to play with your spring rates. One of the previous episodes you stated the spring rates you were running and they were basically fwd setup rates. You need some softer rear rates or higher front rates. You will keep snap oversteering with higher rear rates.
No this is what valving on suspension is for. Heavier spring to support heavier weight. Past that is anti rill bars, tires, corner balancing, dampening, and even aero.I do still think he might need more spring in both front and rear based on other mrs builds but I suppose time will tell. My curiosity is more on front roll center
My (lighter) AW11 ran with carefully valved shocks and 450lb/in front and 325lb/in rears as per the advice of the very experienced race team/builder - contrary to what many others said or did on theirs at the time, who all seemed to go softer front than rear.
The handling was sublime - pinpoint precision, virtually zero understeer yet a trustworthy and faithful rear (though it did also have a functional/ adjustable rear wing built by an ex aerospace guy), and that on relatively awful tyres available / affordable back then.
is it okay that the bolts for adjusting camber and caster are hitting the chasis mount? The whole mark cut makes it easier to get to it but it looks like the top of the strut isn't mounted flush to the body but instead those little allen bolts are hitting the chassis.
Could you add sound deadening for some added low center of gravity weight?
Well Ben, ya got enough sharkskin for next season too!
Milanos and pizza with a Ben & Jerry's chaser, the meal of every successful motorsports champion
Paint or wrap it that Autobacs bright red orange color...it would look amazing.
Cant wait for recap 3 million and 7
If you ever want to push stupid amounts of power in the MR2, there’s a guy based here in the U.K. called StavTech on TH-cam who’s worked out swap kits for 1.8t, VR5 and VR6s with both DSG and manual. Which means you can push past 1600+ without any subframe modifications or serious bulkhead work(I say that only because it’s easier to make part of the bulkhead rivnuted to be able to remove it when you need to work on the intake side of the engine). He’s got a fairly stock 1.8t one pushing over 500 on pump fuel rn, obviously the issue with your car isnt power it’s suspension/arb/tires (or a combination of all 3) but it’s possible to make these 3rd gen MR2s fking rapid without that much work!
im just hoping i show up in the shots on track next video :P Driving alongside you was awesome!
Depending on the paint you could have it painted and add 10-30 pounds just in that. Swap out any titanium hardware with steel, fab a heavier exhaust, if allowed, put the spare tire back up front..
Essentially do everything you could think of to reduce weight in a car, and then do it in reverse lol.
Also, I think it would be a cool idea to break down each class for grid life and explain the rules in a easy to digest manner.
I died when I saw "skip if you're tiktok brained" 😂😂
I hope you take the time to get the alignment right, I feel like most of the drivability issues came from not taking the time to set the car u properly.
I think i should add a cool suit. That would add weights thats useable. And keep u cool
I wonder how many wheel bearings you will use in full season of racing. Also, hope bakes will be fine dealing with added weight...
Re. Adding weight - based on my experience of building a track going/race AW11 MR2 using parts from a very modified dedicated GT Class race car donor - wouldn’t you gain more (eventually?) by adding weight via:
Fully seam welding the entire shell (I had mine done by a v. respected rally prep. company - literally welded all round the car & made it so much stiffer as a platform)
Further adding to/ fully triangulating the cage including extensions to suspension points, engine mounts etc. (ditto, on mine)
Strengthening key points like suspension towers, fixing points etc. and adding chassis braces to floor pan, strut towers (unless using the cage for that?), steering rack etc.
Using bigger, heavier, stronger ball joints, fixings, hubs, brakes
Then ballasting up as necessary with weight mounted to help weight distribution …
rather than just adding plates.
Mine was so stiff as a platform and so closely corner weighted front to back and side to side that it could run much stiffer suspension than normal (advised) and helped steering feel, precision, turn in etc. that once set up by the builders (a top notch race car builder/renovator in the Formula and Sports Racing arena) it was not only lovely to drive but was competitive with cars with much greater power. Just a thought(s)!
That springrate is inadequate for a stock weight zzw30 for track duty, let alone one that weights easily 30% more than stock.
Ben has reached peak satire in this episode.
Restrictor plate to knock the peak down and make like 210 for a much wider range.
This would be a great way of having to add less weight and not losing all of the engines performance
What blades were you using on the jigsaw to cut steel and turn that radius?
FINALLY A 20min VIDEO
Nice welds
also couldnt you add bias weight to the front corners to change the front rear bias of the mr2
Hello Ben’s, I love your content.. but please upload more videos per week.. I literally open your channel everyday to see if something new is uploaded.😂❤️❤️🚗
Is the car not going to lean on the heavier side during turning, and the suspension are all set at the same setup. Some on to make me understand if am wrong
Since you guys didn't display the weight of the car in feathers, i'll do it for you.
The car weighs around 1'008'000'000 feathers.
How about friends of Gears and Gasoline, I have a question about the height of the suspension of my vehicle, I have installed lowers springs Skunk2, but I want to gain height without changing the lowers. What can I do?
I’m not loving using electrical conduit to hold those plates down.
Maybe you can use a solid bar of steel welded on and add weight and strength at the same time.
Rogue squad.. 💪💪
Damn.... i wish i know about the shark stuff, i just got my cage sanded, cleaned and primered.
snap over steer isnt nearly as bad if you use proper braking zones and try not to drive like a fwd or awd car. seems like in this case, its more the driver input than the platform. its a mr, not a rr platform, you might not survive one lap if you drive a porsche the same way you drive a mr2 spyder.... spyder is really not that rear heavy 47/53 weight distribution
you just need a lot more seat time and probably a better alignment
THANK YOU for the kilogram conversions. They make watching a much smoother experience.
What about the feathers conversion
Which is heavier? A kilogramme of steele, or a kilogramme of fethers?
@@mynt253your mom
How do they keep people from cheating the horsepower compensation by using a dyno which underestimates horsepower?
I would say add as much chassis bracing as possible and if that’s still not enough, then adding a factory passenger seat should do the trick.
ur right i dont like the extra weight. race lite. loose the feathers its not a c5 corvet
I dont hate this. back in 2015 a friend of mine actually did something similar to this. it was an ek9 that he aded almost 115kg of weight for handling and it does make a difference
Why not change the pcd to 5 lug? There's plenty more options for wider wheels under that configuration
I love your videos, you are very good TH-camrs.❤
You could have polished the roll cage to look all shiny and gloss instead of painting it. Even though it might take longer hours!
I would have put a restrictor on the intake so it drops peak hp to 200 so you retain as much torque threw the curve as possible so you dont have to run so much weight.
Me watching your video at 6:17am on a Saturday morning 👁️👅👁️
good shit bois
Any reason you welded the whole basket in, rather than welding in brackets so it could be removed?
Yeah watching Ben eat all that unhealthy food made me rethink my life. 😢
Thank you Ben. 😂
This is exactly how the fastest racers in GT7 PP online lobbies win. They ballast the cars up to max weight for max power in a given PP limit.
The results are absurd and the PP system is rendered useless as the rewards are Immense with little downside, especially when you consider most PP races do not have tire wear or penalties.
Called the title of this video on the Advance video
What you need is more downforce,stiffness, power,widebody for wheels
"Appeasing the metric elitists" 🤣🤣
I appreciate how you were eating at all times during the shoot
Why so far forward and not closer to the firewall?
I don't know much of anything about racing but can you add a second gas tank?
10 in wide wheels on an mr2 is wilddddd
Why did you mount the weight so far forward?
what was the benefit of the 2AR over a K-series again?
If you swapped it to 2zz you could make it weight 900 kg ,well balanced and cost effective
Still wish they had done this swap, as it's still the best setup for a track spec MR-S
@ryanbrown918 this engine is very light...thats why lotus chose it for elise
While its lightweight , theres better option in the similar hp/weight spectrum.
Just like any spectrum , there is too light and too heavy , 900kg and the 2zz would be on the 'too light' spectrum
He would need like 5 motors a season lol
Can y'all please do a video with a B13 Nissan Sentra! We get no love!!! Please @Gears&Gasoline!!
lead is your best friend in this case
I love the time tags , almost chocked on coffee when i saw "Skip if you're tik tok brained"
I can’t wait for the return of Len Bin.
I just want you to know naming it "Skip if your Tik-Tok brained" is what kept me from skipping it.
I thought even weight distribution was the goal. Going to have issues throwing that car around where that extra weight is on the passenger tub area. Some have mentioned a heavy bottom skid and areao. Also a heavy/thicker fuel tank and system would help. Heavier rims also. Maybe?
with him in the driver seat doesn't it also help even the weight out? but to be fair I get where you're going as those weights weigh more than he does... Ideally Prob better distribution of the weight would have helped. Maybe having some at the back on either side but I assume they've already considered corner weighting the car for better performance.... if not they do have the scales to do so
Definitely not heavier wheels. Yes, they would add to the overall weight of the car, but unsprung weight should be kept to a minimum. More weight in the wheels means a less responsive and sluggish suspension, which can cause all kinds of weird issues.
@@drumjedi5301 makes sense
you guys could have turned the addition weight into mass damper. And also you can add the weight in form of chassis reinforcements. just my opinion .
I like how you turn that shitbox MR2 to a fast shitbox MR2
Seriously appreciate the chapter titles on your videos, 10/10! 🤣