I hope you continue to build other motors. Would like to learn all your tricks for the Triumph 650. I'd be willing to donate most of the parts if it could happen. Cheers. RMM
Thanks for the thought/offer Robery. Following the positive feedback I've had so far (this TH-cam thing is all a bit new to me) I probably will do another engine after this one, but not sure what/when yet. A Bonneville engine might well be a possible. I may ask for suggestions/engines when the T160 is finished. We'll see how it goes. 🙂👍
Could you tell me the correct torque setting required for the rock box inspection cover screws? These are very difficult to get to on exhaust side because of position of oil cooler. Thank you.
I'm away at present so will answer properly when I'm home, but I sometimes remove the oil cooler when adjusting the exhaust tappets as it's easier in the long run.
The torque setting for all the rocker box screws and nuts is 6 ft lbs. You shouldn't overtighten the two central nuts on the covers as they are unsupported underneath and you can easily crack or warp the inspection cover.
@@Chris.rooke150 Thank you for the info. I have oil leak at right side nut. Trying to determine now what size this nut is. It does not appear to be a Whitworth size, but is close to 11mm. I have 1975 T160 with only 4500 miles on it but a lot of work to do. Next step is to go through carbs because of lack of consistent/smooth running at highway speeds. Got your book yesterday. Thanks again.
Wellseal is the key to good Engine "continence" :-) it's not available in all markets, I used it in the UK since 1970's ! . . . one question please Chris , can you post the spec or order code of the correct X ring seals for the Pushrod tubes please? do you use different ones if head and cylinder surface has been skimmed, to correct the compressive fit (not to damage PR tubes)? TIA great vids, thank you! :-) @@Chris.rooke150
Hi there, I'm not sure of the part no etc for the X-ring seals, I just buy mine from LP Williams in the UK as an uprated seal. I think they are a standard part that just happens to fit the pushrods - maybe the kick-start shaft seal? Not sure. As for the crush gap I think I've been lucky in not having to have ever adjusted it. If the gap's too big then just add more paper gaskets, but if it's too small a gap then I'm not sure how to increase it. 🤔
Well Done Chris.
Thanks, Dale.👍👍👍
Nice engine!!! Nice vídeo!!
Thanks. 👍
I hope you continue to build other motors. Would like to learn all your tricks for the Triumph 650. I'd be willing to donate most of the parts if it could happen. Cheers. RMM
Thanks for the thought/offer Robery. Following the positive feedback I've had so far (this TH-cam thing is all a bit new to me) I probably will do another engine after this one, but not sure what/when yet. A Bonneville engine might well be a possible. I may ask for suggestions/engines when the T160 is finished. We'll see how it goes. 🙂👍
When you torque it down for the second time do you do it when the engine is hot or cold?
Peter
Torque the head down with the engine cold each time. 👍
18:58 connect to the madness!
Sorry, I don't understand. 🤔🤔🤔
Could you tell me the correct torque setting required for the rock box inspection cover screws? These are very difficult to get to on exhaust side because of position of oil cooler. Thank you.
I'm away at present so will answer properly when I'm home, but I sometimes remove the oil cooler when adjusting the exhaust tappets as it's easier in the long run.
@@Chris.rooke150 I ordered your book. Hope to get it this week.
That's great! I'll post the torque info tomorrow. 👍
The torque setting for all the rocker box screws and nuts is 6 ft lbs. You shouldn't overtighten the two central nuts on the covers as they are unsupported underneath and you can easily crack or warp the inspection cover.
@@Chris.rooke150 Thank you for the info. I have oil leak at right side nut. Trying to determine now what size this nut is. It does not appear to be a Whitworth size, but is close to 11mm.
I have 1975 T160 with only 4500 miles on it but a lot of work to do. Next step is to go through carbs because of lack of consistent/smooth running at highway speeds.
Got your book yesterday.
Thanks again.
What type of rocker box gasket are you using?
The standard paper one that came as part of a full engine gasket set.
I've never found those to be long lasting. These wire impregnated ones are poor too.
Well, five years and counting on both of my Tridents and no problems yet.
Wellseal is the key to good Engine "continence" :-) it's not available in all markets, I used it in the UK since 1970's ! . . . one question please Chris , can you post the spec or order code of the correct X ring seals for the Pushrod tubes please? do you use different ones if head and cylinder surface has been skimmed, to correct the compressive fit (not to damage PR tubes)? TIA great vids, thank you! :-) @@Chris.rooke150
Hi there, I'm not sure of the part no etc for the X-ring seals, I just buy mine from LP Williams in the UK as an uprated seal. I think they are a standard part that just happens to fit the pushrods - maybe the kick-start shaft seal? Not sure. As for the crush gap I think I've been lucky in not having to have ever adjusted it. If the gap's too big then just add more paper gaskets, but if it's too small a gap then I'm not sure how to increase it. 🤔