Great you did a bit of an in depth over the Thackery washer position. I looked into this a lot when I was rebuilding my 72 Bonneville and finally put it together Thackery to casing as you explained. You have to blame Triumph for a money saving idea on this. But you put my mind at rest that I have assembled it correctly like you and the reason for it, thanks
Great video guys, some useful tips n tricks in there. I just rebuilt the rocker boxes on my 76, thankfully they have the oval covers! Will be putting them on the head tomorrow and the top end rebuild is nearly done. Gonna binge watch the rest of your stuff, thanks!
Thanks for the info. The 78 T140 I picked up recently had the washers reversed, with the spring washing against the rocker arm and oil slot. Plus it was missing a washer in each rocker box. Crazy what you find taking apart an old bike.
I'm really glad you guys took the time to put out these videos. Todd's video from Lowbrow Customs is exellent. But yours dive a little deeper into some of the problems you may encounter while building one of these motors.RMM.
Excellent thorough explanation thank you. Really helpful thank you. I did notice that you didn't use the spacers listed in the parts manual (E12598) shown as going above the centre head bolts between the top ov the bolt and the inside of the rocker box. My friend Mark, who has rebuilt many T120s and T140s has never seen one used. Any information about these spacers welcome. Thank you again for brilliant, informative videos. Richard
@@richardeblack we didn’t use those spacer’s because they were not needed when we converted the bolts over to the 1972 style, We switched to the mid 1972 and later style because of the better larger Allen wrench and special tool so it can be torqued better, it’s just a better setup, and that could be what your friend did, thanks for the great comment,
Another little trick is like to share is using the fork selector rod out of a tranny. Slide it in from the other direction makes it easier to hold it all straight while you fiddle with it. RMM
EDIT: I don't think the below problem came down to the spindle not being flush with the end of the rocker box as I was predicting. It may have been a bent washer causing my problem (the one that sits against the thackery on the spindle.) So what I wrote below may not be correct as far as making sure the end of the spindle is completely flush with the rocker box. I'm doing more investigating. I did my rocker boxes that way you guys did and after taking one off to replace a busted pushrod tube I realized something.... With the correct sized washers and spring washer placement, it's important to knock the spindle as close to flush with the side of the rocker box as possible... cause if you don't, if you leave it protruding like yours is in the video, there's a small gap on the opposite side of the spindle where the thackery washer sits (on the side with the acorn screw, where it's at its narrowest diameter)... normally the thin smaller ID washer would sit there, but we've ditched that washer for the larger ID and put it on the other side of the thackery, this creates a small gap right where the thinner OD spindle meets the inside of the rocker box, and that gap (if it's big enough) can catch the edges of the thackery washer and flatten it, so there's no spring action at all when you grab the rocker and move it back and forth. I took my rockerbox off and was trying to figure out why the thackery had no spring action I could see that it was squeezed together and flattened but I couldn't see anything causing it. Then I realize it's that gap where the spindle gets thinner... it's just a tiny gap but if it two coils of the thackery get into the groove they act like your pliers do when you squeeze the thackery together to install it. I hope that makes sense, it's hard to describe without pictures. The only preemptive fix I can see is to make sure the spindle is in there all the way and flush with the side of the rocker box, getting rid of as much of that tiny gap as possible. Normally as long as the o-ring is in there good, I wouldn't care if the spindle protruded a little, but now I make sure to pull it in until it's flush with the rocker box. Curious if anyone else come across this problem, or has any thoughts. I don't think it would cause damage, but the spring action of the thackery is there for a reason, so it's good to have it working right.
Well you raise an interesting point about the large end sticking out. But we don't use the little holed washer as it is replaced by a large hole washer and it now sits next to the rocker and the Thackeray washer now sits next to the rockerbox and yes you must be sure the Thackeray washer doesn't get pinched and that the rocker shaft when tightened up, that the larger edge of the bearing surface is up tight to the rocker box and the rocker needs to be free to spring sideways if pushed by hand and the Thackeray washer should rotate or move if pushed after its all tightened up. It's interesting that some shafts seem to protrude on the large end further than other's we observe that end before and after so we know it's all the way in.
@@jessesvintagegarage765 My theory might have been wrong. I thought I was onto something but I just put that same rocker box back together and when I got the spindle all the way in place (flush with the rocker box) I was having a similar problem with the thackery washer getting squished and not having any springiness to it. So I took it apart again and noticed the regular washer was a bit mangled and bent on the bottom... which may have been the problem all along. I'm just surprised I wouldn't have noticed that bent up washer the first time I took it apart. I'm going to edit my above comment to reflect this new data.
Do you guys glue those rubber tank mounting pad/things to the frame? I can never get them to stay still when putting on and taking off the tank. I wrapped electrical tape around one of them to keep it place.
We use black or clear silicone gasket material on the rubber mount to the frame and then use black electrical tape around the frame and rubber for extra support. Then the rubber mounts stay put and don't let the gas tank move around.
![ลองสุ่มไอโฟน 990 โกงมั้ย? [ โกงมั้ยครับ ep.101 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bfsWe0j492k/mqdefault.jpg)
Great you did a bit of an in depth over the Thackery washer position. I looked into this a lot when I was rebuilding my 72 Bonneville and finally put it together Thackery to casing as you explained. You have to blame Triumph for a money saving idea on this. But you put my mind at rest that I have assembled it correctly like you and the reason for it, thanks
Great video guys, some useful tips n tricks in there. I just rebuilt the rocker boxes on my 76, thankfully they have the oval covers! Will be putting them on the head tomorrow and the top end rebuild is nearly done. Gonna binge watch the rest of your stuff, thanks!
great explanation of the thackery washer issue, thanks.
Thanks for the info. The 78 T140 I picked up recently had the washers reversed, with the spring washing against the rocker arm and oil slot. Plus it was missing a washer in each rocker box. Crazy what you find taking apart an old bike.
I have a January 72 T120R and the rocker cover is already changed to the Oval type, keep up the grate work.
I'm really glad you guys took the time to put out these videos. Todd's video from Lowbrow Customs is exellent. But yours dive a little deeper into some of the problems you may encounter while building one of these motors.RMM.
Thanks a lot for your awesome comment we felt like some of this info is missing out there and we needed to get it out there
Excellent thorough explanation thank you. Really helpful thank you. I did notice that you didn't use the spacers listed in the parts manual (E12598) shown as going above the centre head bolts between the top ov the bolt and the inside of the rocker box.
My friend Mark, who has rebuilt many T120s and T140s has never seen one used.
Any information about these spacers welcome.
Thank you again for brilliant, informative videos.
Richard
@@richardeblack we didn’t use those spacer’s because they were not needed when we converted the bolts over to the 1972 style, We switched to the mid 1972 and later style because of the better larger Allen wrench and special tool so it can be torqued better, it’s just a better setup, and that could be what your friend did, thanks for the great comment,
Thank you very much for that reply.
Another little trick is like to share is using the fork selector rod out of a tranny. Slide it in from the other direction makes it easier to hold it all straight while you fiddle with it. RMM
EDIT: I don't think the below problem came down to the spindle not being flush with the end of the rocker box as I was predicting. It may have been a bent washer causing my problem (the one that sits against the thackery on the spindle.) So what I wrote below may not be correct as far as making sure the end of the spindle is completely flush with the rocker box. I'm doing more investigating.
I did my rocker boxes that way you guys did and after taking one off to replace a busted pushrod tube I realized something....
With the correct sized washers and spring washer placement, it's important to knock the spindle as close to flush with the side of the rocker box as possible... cause if you don't, if you leave it protruding like yours is in the video, there's a small gap on the opposite side of the spindle where the thackery washer sits (on the side with the acorn screw, where it's at its narrowest diameter)... normally the thin smaller ID washer would sit there, but we've ditched that washer for the larger ID and put it on the other side of the thackery, this creates a small gap right where the thinner OD spindle meets the inside of the rocker box, and that gap (if it's big enough) can catch the edges of the thackery washer and flatten it, so there's no spring action at all when you grab the rocker and move it back and forth. I took my rockerbox off and was trying to figure out why the thackery had no spring action I could see that it was squeezed together and flattened but I couldn't see anything causing it. Then I realize it's that gap where the spindle gets thinner... it's just a tiny gap but if it two coils of the thackery get into the groove they act like your pliers do when you squeeze the thackery together to install it. I hope that makes sense, it's hard to describe without pictures.
The only preemptive fix I can see is to make sure the spindle is in there all the way and flush with the side of the rocker box, getting rid of as much of that tiny gap as possible. Normally as long as the o-ring is in there good, I wouldn't care if the spindle protruded a little, but now I make sure to pull it in until it's flush with the rocker box.
Curious if anyone else come across this problem, or has any thoughts. I don't think it would cause damage, but the spring action of the thackery is there for a reason, so it's good to have it working right.
Well you raise an interesting point about the large end sticking out. But we don't use the little holed washer as it is replaced by a large hole washer and it now sits next to the rocker and the Thackeray washer now sits next to the rockerbox and yes you must be sure the Thackeray washer doesn't get pinched and that the rocker shaft when tightened up, that the larger edge of the bearing surface is up tight to the rocker box and the rocker needs to be free to spring sideways if pushed by hand and the Thackeray washer should rotate or move if pushed after its all tightened up.
It's interesting that some shafts seem to protrude on the large end further than other's we observe that end before and after so we know it's all the way in.
@@jessesvintagegarage765 My theory might have been wrong. I thought I was onto something but I just put that same rocker box back together and when I got the spindle all the way in place (flush with the rocker box) I was having a similar problem with the thackery washer getting squished and not having any springiness to it. So I took it apart again and noticed the regular washer was a bit mangled and bent on the bottom... which may have been the problem all along. I'm just surprised I wouldn't have noticed that bent up washer the first time I took it apart. I'm going to edit my above comment to reflect this new data.
Do you guys glue those rubber tank mounting pad/things to the frame? I can never get them to stay still when putting on and taking off the tank. I wrapped electrical tape around one of them to keep it place.
We use black or clear silicone gasket material on the rubber mount to the frame and then use black electrical tape around the frame and rubber for extra support. Then the rubber mounts stay put and don't let the gas tank move around.
so the rockers match the head stem valves ?????? blue it did you ??????
Do you have any parts