I give you both credit for all you've tried but I myself would have used a pressure washer on the track pins from as many angles as possible to try and clean, loosen any rust or debris around or in the areas between each Link. Then blow out the pins and use the best penetrating oil you have. Tranny fluid works wonders but takes much longer, IMHO. A last ditch idea which I've never tried is to drill a small hole in the pins and then fill with penetration fluids. Make sure to weld the hole shut afterwards. You've got nothing to lose considering what replacement track parts cost plus finding a shop to install them. Didn't you get another NEW track with the Dozer??? Good luck. Thx for another great video guys.😊
@@mikesmith8952 LOL... Penetrating oil... transmission oil. Carbon arc gouge is the solution. No oil, or pressure washer is going to create clearance. Punch a hole through the pin try to get as close to the edge as possible. Guys at the mines use "penetrating oil" to wash their hands in the field.
I have never experienced this issue before, but I think I would try to dig a low spot for that section of track link to fit into. Then line the area with a thick mil plastic and through some of your pig mats below the plastic in case it punctures. Then fill the plastic reservoir with penetrating oil or trans fluid so the pins and links are submerged. Not sure if it would work but that's what I would try at this point, then let it sit submerged for a week or two. Goodluck.
IMO the track kink is not a big deal unless it's an everyday 10 hour machine. Replace the undercarridge parts only after they're 100% worn out and your bank account is very full.
Put the track pad on and run it across some actual rocky terrain. The asymmetric loading of the chain left to right should break that link loose, if it still doesn't break loose then burn the pin out (or drill it) and replace the link. Running the chain on the ground without the grouser just pushes the chain in the ground and doesn't really do much for it. Also tighten the chain up properly, that will force the link to pivot around the wheel properly. One last idea, something that I was told by an old armor restorer. Get a good and hot fire going under that link and let the heat from the fire soak it the link and break it loose. Just hitting a piece of steel with that much mass behind it with a small sledge isn't going to do anything but make you tired.
The hour meter grounding thru an oil pressure switch is so that when the key switch is on but the engine isn’t running, you don’t rack up any hours. When the engine starts, the switch grounds the hourmeter.
Grab the next foam cushion you drive by on the side of the road it will save your knee's when you kneel on the tracks for when your 50 or older. Put a trash bag around it if you want to keep it from soaking up oil and such or throw it away. There are always more old couch/chair cushions on the side of the road.
Absolutely! I have several couch cushions to use for kneeling and also staying put when working on shingled roofs! I recently got one of the actual 'Husky' kneeling pads from Home Depot, those are nice for indoor work like furnace, under sink work, etc. Also I have a pair of Duluth Trading flex firehose pants with the knee pads you put into the double knee. I usually never wore kneepads cause the straps wear into the back of your leg, keep sliding down your leg, & are just uncomfortable and annoying af. But kneeling on pads & cushions is easy and much better in the long run, also cushions are useful for other things like leaning over core support to work on trucks, etc. 👍🏻👌🏻🛠️🔧🔩🚜🦺
I would have thought the track needs to be very tight in order to free up the link rather than slack, this will force it to follow the contour of the idler wheel, when slack there is no tension on it to force it to bend back and forth. Also drill a hole deep enough to see the pin, heat it up and fill the hole with pb blaster, repeat a few times till its freed up by running it, once done weld the hole up again being careful not to weld the pin in.
Try filling a grease gun from a 5 gallon bucket of grease! The farmer that I worked for as a teenager wouldn’t buy grease tubes! He was cheap and bought grease by the 5 gallon bucket! I had to haul that nasty 5 gallon bucket to grease in the back of my truck every day! But fill the grease gun from a bucket and then you have to burp the air out of it to use it! It sucks but I learned how to do it and I know others don’t know how! It takes a knack to fill it!
Pull the pads off so you can get to the pins! Yall need a rose bud for your oxygen /Acetylene torch! Cutting tips don’t put out enough heat! To me it just needs to be used and oiled a lot!
I really appreciate your videos. They very interesting and satisfying. I would love to tear things down, but I could NEVER do what you and your Dad do, putting everything back together. I especially liked the video where your Dad showed the empty cardboard box, showing that all the parts removed were put back into the machine!! Amazing. Looking forward to the next video.
Heat the center piece of it Tyler and let it sit and oil it and let it sit , anything you do will help it to work the penetrating oil into the pin! It seems to be seized in the center piece, Tyler!
On your track problem would hydraulic bottle jacks help you get the links freed up? Maybe with some heat added into the mix...nice to see it saved from the scrap heap!
I think I saw Clint use carbon arc gouge to turn the stuck pins to liquid. CAN'T BE STUCK IF IT'S LIQUID. Also you could try putting a 1/2 inch shim under your square tubing and above the pin to force the pin to rotate in the links.
A couple of ideas on your track. I would pressure wash the link joints first to get rid of any packed dirt, etc. keep using your penetrating oil. Try cutting a 12-16” diameter section of hardwood log and set it up to run over it at the bad links to force them up. Probably be able to lift the front far enough off the ground to set it under the track. Might be able to put a section pipe between the sprockets and the links to force them out. If you had a backhoe or excavator, you could use that to push and pull on the links. You can also have a HD equipment shop come out and push your pins out and push them back in. $165.00/hrs. in upstate NY last time I checked. Most likely more now. On a safety note, you probably want to drop your blade when you get out of any dozer. Just not a good idea leaving it up when you’re working on it. Good luck. Interested in seeing how you guys make out on it.
It may sound stupid if you have a pond park the dozer with the stuck pins under water for a week or so. Water caused it to lock up A lot of time water will break break the bond. I have learned that trick from a lot of 0ld timers . If you have to heat them up drive them back in the water . And let them soak Works 90 % of the time Happy days!
They always reckon one man’s trash is another man’s treasure and boy did you guys turn that into gold, what a beautiful old machine to save from the scrappers yard, boy some people never respect the value of old steel do they. Well done on this one, those track pins are mongrels of things aren’t they. Well done, great content, nice length of video to, thanks very much
Idk I would have just run those pins for a while to see if they would loosen. I dont see how a stuck pin is any worse than the dirt and rocks that go through the chain and sprocket normally.
On the kubota engine I guarantee it was over heated. The heads on those engines have thin water port casting. I have it a lot. Got to stay on top of the engine temps when he gets it back up and running. Literally one good over heat and you’ll be in the same boat. The engines are great engines. Last a long time and are really reliable. Just like anything else though proper maintenance and operator awareness is key. Machine was probably ran by an employee who just there for a pay check. You know how that is. It’s not theirs so it not ran and took care of as if it was.
Many “content makers” are changing to doing the work and narrating later so they don’t feel the need to fill the videos at the time… hope it helps you! Thanks for the videos
On the track link I would use a track hoe to push down and then wrap a log chain around and use it to lift up and just keep pushing down lifting up pushing down lifting up
In old equipment I will generally put in T4. I feel like the detergents in the full synthetic will blow out all the build up around the seals and make them leak later. I put T6 in all my new equipment. It's expensive oil but I want the equipment to out live me.
On the 4500D we had the same problem they crack very easy they are shit do not add fluid when It is warm or it will crack again and check that clutch fan they will fail and not cool properly also keep checking the screen door for the rad they plug up fast when grass is dry
The old way tried and tested way of putting in glass like that is to insert a long peice of woven nylon cord (like a waist band tie from an old waterproof coat) into the side you are pulling through then offer up the glass and bed half to two thirds of it in first, then while gently pushing the glass into place pull the cord out round the peice and it will pop in no drama.
By the way with those track kinks. After you let the grease out and it loosened up, that would satisfy me that a bearing was not going to be overstressed.
They were a nice machine in their day. As for those track pins I would just ignore them and run it. They will break loose eventually, might take a couple of full days work though. It's not going to do any damage and when they do loosen up they are not going cause you to throw a track which is probably the worst possible scenario.
@@dieseJL From what I can determine you have run that machine for a couple of hours over several months? That being the case I would be surprised that anything was showing significant wear at all, let alone "oddly". There could possibly a slight increase on tooth loading as those two stuck pins go over the sprocket and slightly increased wear at the pin to sprocket interface but those would only become relevant at hundreds of hours. The other possible issue would be slightly increased point loading as those links go over each roller. But that is irrelevant because that is the case every time you track over a rock. If there are alignment wear issues then that would not be caused by the stuck links so you would need to determine what is causing that. What you want to do is run that machine for a full day on hard rocky ground. The continued impacts will break them loose. To replace those links you will need a 70 to 100 ton track press which I assume you do not have on hand. That will allow you to fit new pins and bushes. To get the seized ones out would probably require 150 tons. If you are going to do that you would be better off cutting through the pin and bush so that you only have to press the cut pin out of one link not two which could possibly be done on a 30 to 40 ton press. You are not going to be able to do it with a sledge hammer or an air hammer that and you run the risk of belling the end of the pin which is only going to make it worse.
Kubota head cracks, definitely caused by some idiot putting cold coolant into a very hot engine that has been run to overheating temps. If you want the track pins to move with driving the machine forward and back, tighten the tracks more to force a bend after the bolt straightening procedure. You could try heat and cold quench as well with plenty of WD40.
C&C equipment has all of your parts and tech-to rebuild any equipment machines,,, they are on TH-cam,and Clint is the onwer and the phone number is right on the channel, thanks BigAl California.
I hate to say it but the only thing that track needed was you to start putting the power to the ground. Driving on perfectly smooth ground idling won’t do it but 15 minutes of pushing trees and piles of dirt she’d be happy and flexible. Those tracks will need tightening the second day you run it.
kubota head.....the engine was OVER heated and it cracked the head....probably the screen in the radiator was not cleaned and just the lack of checking and keeping air filter and screen clean....so, that head is SUPER expensive,,,,,,
One good thing, Tyler, Dad hasn't lost his charm -- He's still a "Good Ol' Fella" (Have you thought about some Hair Color For Men -- Yup ! - You're gettin' gray-er --- 😂😂) Great Vid as always, man !
Just curious, is EVERYTHING (all the equipment behind the golf course) running now? There must be something in another set of weeds somewhere. I am looking forward to the next mechanical adventure!!!!
If you have a TOUGH drill bit, drill small holes down to te pin. Weld on nuts to take grease nipples. Heat up. Fill holes with penetrant before greasing. Repeat.
I only put synthetic oil in engines designed and built in the synthetic oil age. In my opinion, synthetic oil is too thin to fill bearing clearances effectively.
Mobil sran ynthetic in a diesel truck for 100,000 miles without changing it - no wear. Old fashioned breaks down and must be changed at 5 or 6,000 miles. In a mix of old and synthetis, the old fashioned oil still breaks down, so it must be changed at 5 or 6,000 miles - and the still good synthetic gets thrown out after accomplishing nothing!
You need what my ex father in-law would call a B And O its a pin on a handle a guy holds the B/O a drift pin on a hand and a big boy Beats it with a BFH heat lub Beat its an ignorant process!.
Seems to me the joints are now bending, it is straightening them again that remains a problem. How about running that belt on concrete or on a solid beam.
8:30 I always worry when a dog starts doing that rubbing on the ground thing! Too many times it has resulted in them rubbing in 💩 for some damn reason! I don't know why they do that but its not pretty when it happens. Scrubbing 💩off a dog isn't an easy task whatsoever, especially when they're longer haired. Hope that isn't what's happening right here! 🤦🏻♂️🤔👍🏻🐕🐾🐶😅😅
29:56 😅That whole pouring oil out of a jug the right way is so simple but so many can't grasp the whole idea! Yes! Let the air out! Spout on top! Grampa was a smart man! Yeah I agree the funnel does collect a tiny bit of dust\junk but I usually keep a twisted up paper towel in it to keep last few drops from leaking out and keep it in a plastic bag too(well at least the ones in my truck). For home shop use check out the magnetic funnel holder(Leslie 50240) to hold your funnels. Also check out the OilUdder flexible magnetic funnel and the EWK flexible oil funnel(form-a-funnel). There are a lot of really cool funnels out there. And when you can't find one just cut up a water bottle or an oil quart container, the power steering(round w\ thin tapered spout) bottles work really well too. Don't not use a funnel cause they may get dirty, you can wipe it out & spray brake-clean easily, so it's ready to go. Anyways sorry for my rambling! 😅🤣🤣
32:07 Half a percent! I think I agree with that one. Grease guns and so many other things are just not common knowledge these days....very sad! I don't think most people can even check their oil, trans levels let alone put air in their own tires. What a sad time we live in right now! If there isn't an app on their iPhone for it, no body can do it in the days we live in now. It really is so freakin sad! 🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤔🛢️🚫🛠️
Yeah f that $300 for that piece of glass is outrageous! If I were you I'd just go to home Depot and buy a sheet of 1/4" plexiglass (or lexan), cut it yourself with a diamond blade grinder and just put that in. $300 is alot for that when you got all this other stuff to buy & fix on all of your machines.
If you don’t think we tried enough with the track pins watch my dad throw the kitchen sink at it at the very end of the video 🤣
I give you both credit for all you've tried but I myself would have used a pressure washer on the track pins from as many angles as possible to try and clean, loosen any rust or debris around or in the areas between each Link. Then blow out the pins and use the best penetrating oil you have. Tranny fluid works wonders but takes much longer, IMHO. A last ditch idea which I've never tried is to drill a small hole in the pins and then fill with penetration fluids. Make sure to weld the hole shut afterwards. You've got nothing to lose considering what replacement track parts cost plus finding a shop to install them. Didn't you get another NEW track with the Dozer??? Good luck. Thx for another great video guys.😊
@@mikesmith8952 LOL... Penetrating oil... transmission oil. Carbon arc gouge is the solution. No oil, or pressure washer is going to create clearance. Punch a hole through the pin try to get as close to the edge as possible. Guys at the mines use "penetrating oil" to wash their hands in the field.
PB blaster
I have never experienced this issue before, but I think I would try to dig a low spot for that section of track link to fit into. Then line the area with a thick mil plastic and through some of your pig mats below the plastic in case it punctures. Then fill the plastic reservoir with penetrating oil or trans fluid so the pins and links are submerged. Not sure if it would work but that's what I would try at this point, then let it sit submerged for a week or two. Goodluck.
Maybe plastic, pig mats and another layer of plastic...
IMO the track kink is not a big deal unless it's an everyday 10 hour machine. Replace the undercarridge parts only after they're 100% worn out and your bank account is very full.
It was wearing stuff in an abnormal way. Hate to try and save a few bucks now and have it cost us big in the long run
Kudos to the glass company for doing the right thing!
Put the track pad on and run it across some actual rocky terrain. The asymmetric loading of the chain left to right should break that link loose, if it still doesn't break loose then burn the pin out (or drill it) and replace the link. Running the chain on the ground without the grouser just pushes the chain in the ground and doesn't really do much for it. Also tighten the chain up properly, that will force the link to pivot around the wheel properly. One last idea, something that I was told by an old armor restorer. Get a good and hot fire going under that link and let the heat from the fire soak it the link and break it loose. Just hitting a piece of steel with that much mass behind it with a small sledge isn't going to do anything but make you tired.
High pressure hose to soften the dirt and wash it out. Tighten the track to force it.
The hour meter grounding thru an oil pressure switch is so that when the key switch is on but the engine isn’t running, you don’t rack up any hours. When the engine starts, the switch grounds the hourmeter.
Grab the next foam cushion you drive by on the side of the road it will save your knee's when you kneel on the tracks for when your 50 or older. Put a trash bag around it if you want to keep it from soaking up oil and such or throw it away. There are always more old couch/chair cushions on the side of the road.
Absolutely! I have several couch cushions to use for kneeling and also staying put when working on shingled roofs! I recently got one of the actual 'Husky' kneeling pads from Home Depot, those are nice for indoor work like furnace, under sink work, etc. Also I have a pair of Duluth Trading flex firehose pants with the knee pads you put into the double knee. I usually never wore kneepads cause the straps wear into the back of your leg, keep sliding down your leg, & are just uncomfortable and annoying af. But kneeling on pads & cushions is easy and much better in the long run, also cushions are useful for other things like leaning over core support to work on trucks, etc. 👍🏻👌🏻🛠️🔧🔩🚜🦺
I would have thought the track needs to be very tight in order to free up the link rather than slack, this will force it to follow the contour of the idler wheel, when slack there is no tension on it to force it to bend back and forth. Also drill a hole deep enough to see the pin, heat it up and fill the hole with pb blaster, repeat a few times till its freed up by running it, once done weld the hole up again being careful not to weld the pin in.
Drill. A. Hole. Iñ. It. Ha it. Is. As. Hard. AS. A. HARLETS. HEART
Try filling a grease gun from a 5 gallon bucket of grease! The farmer that I worked for as a teenager wouldn’t buy grease tubes! He was cheap and bought grease by the 5 gallon bucket! I had to haul that nasty 5 gallon bucket to grease in the back of my truck every day! But fill the grease gun from a bucket and then you have to burp the air out of it to use it! It sucks but I learned how to do it and I know others don’t know how! It takes a knack to fill it!
We did the same. No grease cartridges. Just pull the grease gun full from the bucket and get the trick to get the air out 😄
Wow
Don 't think grease tunes were available in the early 50s when I was working for a custom hay operator, plenty of 5 gallon buckets!
Pull the pads off so you can get to the pins! Yall need a rose bud for your oxygen /Acetylene torch! Cutting tips don’t put out enough heat! To me it just needs to be used and oiled a lot!
Stay tuned 😬
Don't heat it, you cook the oil and the seals and stuff it completely, give it some work and it will free up.
Sometimes heating it up red hot with a rosebud and dousing it quickly with cold water will shock it to loosen rust by expansion and contraction.
Tried that 😓
I really appreciate your videos. They very interesting and satisfying. I would love to tear things down, but I could NEVER do what you and your Dad do, putting everything back together. I especially liked the video where your Dad showed the empty cardboard box, showing that all the parts removed were put back into the machine!! Amazing. Looking forward to the next video.
Enjoy seeing people bring back to life these dozers. Good job enjoyed the content!
Heat the center piece of it Tyler and let it sit and oil it and let it sit , anything you do will help it to work the penetrating oil into the pin! It seems to be seized in the center piece, Tyler!
Those darn track pins!!!
The winch is used for a counter weight to the blade, it improves your longitudinal weight balance
Fair
It’s should be illegal to scrap something in such good condition like this machine.
On your track problem would hydraulic bottle jacks help you get the links freed up? Maybe with some heat added into the mix...nice to see it saved from the scrap heap!
I think I saw Clint use carbon arc gouge to turn the stuck pins to liquid. CAN'T BE STUCK IF IT'S LIQUID. Also you could try putting a 1/2 inch shim under your square tubing and above the pin to force the pin to rotate in the links.
Tyler hasn't much tools and equipments and might have to truck the dozer to someone who has the carbon arc to replace the two pins.
A couple of ideas on your track. I would pressure wash the link joints first to get rid of any packed dirt, etc. keep using your penetrating oil. Try cutting a 12-16” diameter section of hardwood log and set it up to run over it at the bad links to force them up. Probably be able to lift the front far enough off the ground to set it under the track. Might be able to put a section pipe between the sprockets and the links to force them out. If you had a backhoe or excavator, you could use that to push and pull on the links. You can also have a HD equipment shop come out and push your pins out and push them back in. $165.00/hrs. in upstate NY last time I checked. Most likely more now. On a safety note, you probably want to drop your blade when you get out of any dozer. Just not a good idea leaving it up when you’re working on it. Good luck. Interested in seeing how you guys make out on it.
It may sound stupid if you have a pond park the dozer with the stuck pins under water for a week or so. Water caused it to lock up
A lot of time water will break break the bond. I have learned that trick from a lot of 0ld timers . If you have to heat them up drive them back in the water . And let them soak
Works 90 % of the time
Happy days!
Man I have heard that a lot. Crazy but must work…
C & C equipment have a trackpin extractor, pin is rusted, seized , distorted.
He knows that C&C Equipment will always help him out with the correct solution
I really do need to hang out with Clint 🤔
They always reckon one man’s trash is another man’s treasure and boy did you guys turn that into gold, what a beautiful old machine to save from the scrappers yard, boy some people never respect the value of old steel do they. Well done on this one, those track pins are mongrels of things aren’t they. Well done, great content, nice length of video to, thanks very much
Thanks for the support!
replace the glass with polycarbonate . cut onsite, cheap easy and strong. add a soft laminate for scratch protection.
Idk I would have just run those pins for a while to see if they would loosen. I dont see how a stuck pin is any worse than the dirt and rocks that go through the chain and sprocket normally.
Man, I wish I knew this much about ANYTHING! You're one hell of a handy guy. Love your videos buddy
Thanks!
next time pour motor oil on the stuck track, then use a hydraulic jack from the undercarriage to chain to press them to move.
On the kubota engine I guarantee it was over heated. The heads on those engines have thin water port casting. I have it a lot. Got to stay on top of the engine temps when he gets it back up and running. Literally one good over heat and you’ll be in the same boat. The engines are great engines. Last a long time and are really reliable. Just like anything else though proper maintenance and operator awareness is key. Machine was probably ran by an employee who just there for a pay check. You know how that is. It’s not theirs so it not ran and took care of as if it was.
She's a beauty you should be proud to own it.
Many “content makers” are changing to doing the work and narrating later so they don’t feel the need to fill the videos at the time… hope it helps you! Thanks for the videos
Thanks for the support!
Pops determined for sure!!!
Could you over tighten that track to put more pressure on the links as they pass over the sprocket and idler?
Yikes would put a lot of stress on the final. Could be much more expensive than a new track.
I use T5 in my diesel truck when I had it.
Stuck links… tension the track to tighter than normal… then go,for a drive. Breaks them free 99% of the time. Tension to spec and run with it.
Yeah I was saying this the whole time they were fighting it 😂
On the track link I would use a track hoe to push down and then wrap a log chain around and use it to lift up and just keep pushing down lifting up pushing down lifting up
Exactly. And spraying Rust buster and Diesel on the pin as you go .
Backwards filter for sure, that's nuts.
The poor trans 😓
Nicest scrap dozer I have ever seen. What’s wrong with people?!?!
I’m not complaining
How about air arc gouge them out? I've seen IC Weld do it. If you can find a guy with that equipment close by.
Yeah would be nice but you need welder power and big air. We just torched them out
In old equipment I will generally put in T4. I feel like the detergents in the full synthetic will blow out all the build up around the seals and make them leak later. I put T6 in all my new equipment. It's expensive oil but I want the equipment to out live me.
On the 4500D we had the same problem they crack very easy they are shit do not add fluid when It is warm or it will crack again and check that clutch fan they will fail and not cool properly also keep checking the screen door for the rad they plug up fast when grass is dry
The old way tried and tested way of putting in glass like that is to insert a long peice of woven nylon cord (like a waist band tie from an old waterproof coat) into the side you are pulling through then offer up the glass and bed half to two thirds of it in first, then while gently pushing the glass into place pull the cord out round the peice and it will pop in no drama.
Yeah roping-in the glass is how it's done. A little lubrication helps -dawn dish soap works well.
Did you see how this seal was two piece? I didn’t think it would work that way
By the way with those track kinks. After you let the grease out and it loosened up, that would satisfy me that a bearing was not going to be overstressed.
ran over a good sized rock a few times...it worked....once
Lol
That thing is in amazing condition as far as clean goes
Put a pipe on the sprocket under the link ,drive it back and forth it will bend the link then straighten again repeat until lose .
Try running the machine on concrete or a thick piece of plate steel
just bolt a bucket upside down over the exhaust . and have it tipped a tiny bit away from the cab. no flapping/ banging.
Heat those links and let them cool and do that a few times! It’ll loosen up after a while!
Frozen links will never fix themselves. Heating with that welding tip not even close to enough heat rosebud! And a big one. But trackpress even better
Yeah I finally got myself a proper torch
What if you put a bottle jack between the track adjuster frame and jacked the track up to get it to bend?
Good video guys your dads a cool guy!!!
I wish the show would come back.
What is the show
Pig mats are great! I'd use a putty knife rather then a screwdriver to scrape.
They were a nice machine in their day.
As for those track pins I would just ignore them and run it. They will break loose eventually, might take a couple of full days work though. It's not going to do any damage and when they do loosen up they are not going cause you to throw a track which is probably the worst possible scenario.
We’re not really comfortable with it it was wearing stuff oddly
@@dieseJL From what I can determine you have run that machine for a couple of hours over several months?
That being the case I would be surprised that anything was showing significant wear at all, let alone "oddly".
There could possibly a slight increase on tooth loading as those two stuck pins go over the sprocket and slightly increased wear at the pin to sprocket interface but those would only become relevant at hundreds of hours. The other possible issue would be slightly increased point loading as those links go over each roller. But that is irrelevant because that is the case every time you track over a rock.
If there are alignment wear issues then that would not be caused by the stuck links so you would need to determine what is causing that.
What you want to do is run that machine for a full day on hard rocky ground. The continued impacts will break them loose.
To replace those links you will need a 70 to 100 ton track press which I assume you do not have on hand. That will allow you to fit new pins and bushes. To get the seized ones out would probably require 150 tons. If you are going to do that you would be better off cutting through the pin and bush so that you only have to press the cut pin out of one link not two which could possibly be done on a 30 to 40 ton press. You are not going to be able to do it with a sledge hammer or an air hammer that and you run the risk of belling the end of the pin which is only going to make it worse.
Heat it red hot!
Kubota head cracks, definitely caused by some idiot putting cold coolant into a very hot engine that has been run to overheating temps. If you want the track pins to move with driving the machine forward and back, tighten the tracks more to force a bend after the bolt straightening procedure. You could try heat and cold quench as well with plenty of WD40.
Love your channel!!!.....GO LIONS ONE PRIDE!
That is so cool I love to have nice one in my yard.but I love thfem
C&C equipment has all of your parts and tech-to rebuild any equipment machines,,, they are on TH-cam,and Clint is the onwer and the phone number is right on the channel, thanks BigAl California.
Thanks big Al!
I think you might have to change the linkage out looks like the pin is stuck in the clip
a new video, finally 🎉👍
Rose buds are awesome!!!!
I keep my funnels upside-down in a box..... normally with a rag over the whole
Some people call them pig mats!
I hate to say it but the only thing that track needed was you to start putting the power to the ground. Driving on perfectly smooth ground idling won’t do it but 15 minutes of pushing trees and piles of dirt she’d be happy and flexible. Those tracks will need tightening the second day you run it.
Tyler, what IS you day job? I have been trying to figure it out based on your areas of expertise.
I am a manufacturing engineer. I program and deploy robots.
kubota head.....the engine was OVER heated and it cracked the head....probably the screen in the radiator was not cleaned and just the lack of checking and keeping air filter and screen clean....so, that head is SUPER expensive,,,,,,
Yeah what a bummer. New head runs good now 👍🏻
Tyler you have a awsome Dad
I do I do
1:17:10 the dozer almost looks like new now. 😆😉
Except for that track
I can't believe that dozer was going to be scrapped.
that is the same place I worked at about 5 years ago
Where
@@dieseJL that's easy king of cars AKA golf carts I used to work on Bernie before they permanently close them down
One good thing, Tyler, Dad hasn't lost his charm -- He's still a "Good Ol' Fella"
(Have you thought about some Hair Color For Men -- Yup ! - You're gettin' gray-er --- 😂😂)
Great Vid as always, man !
Grey is also a color and it's natural and accepting it makes it even better
@@Frank-Thoresen Yup !
It's better than having it fall out b/4 the color change takes over !
31 hit hard 😓
@@dieseJL Tyler, Please don't ever change ! -- You're a great guy, husband and father
Just curious, is EVERYTHING (all the equipment behind the golf course) running now? There must be something in another set of weeds somewhere. I am looking forward to the next mechanical adventure!!!!
Great Video. Great Channel
Thanks for the visit!
If you have a TOUGH drill bit, drill small holes down to te pin. Weld on nuts to take grease nipples. Heat up. Fill holes with penetrant before greasing. Repeat.
If you can't get the track pin free you will do better too use gouging rod instead of cutting torches to cut out the old pins
Yeah would be nice but we don’t have big power out there 👎🏻
I only put synthetic oil in engines designed and built in the synthetic oil age. In my opinion, synthetic oil is too thin to fill bearing clearances effectively.
Mobil sran ynthetic in a diesel truck for 100,000 miles without changing it - no wear. Old fashioned breaks down and must be changed at 5 or 6,000 miles. In a mix of old and synthetis, the old fashioned oil still breaks down, so it must be changed at 5 or 6,000 miles - and the still good synthetic gets thrown out after accomplishing nothing!
"Junior Wins" t-shirts soon??
Yes lmao
You need what my ex father in-law would call a B And O its a pin on a handle a guy holds the B/O a drift pin on a hand and a big boy Beats it with a BFH heat lub Beat its an ignorant process!.
Stay tuned 😬
Seems to me the joints are now bending, it is straightening them again that remains a problem. How about running that belt on concrete or on a solid beam.
The filter was on backwards. For Sure!
SMH
What was the biggest challenge you faced while getting the bulldozer ready for service? 🤔
Your question sounds like one of the worthless women broadcasters from he NFL......
Having alternators rebuilt is a waste of money, they are so easy to rebuild them yourself.
It’s crazy to me to think that the weight of the machine alone while running it won’t free up the track
I know right!
Replacing a grease tube is easy, just filling a grease gun directly from a drum of grease is way more of a challenge.
I need to learn that trick
do an hours work then see if the track is still stuck
Rent a jack hammer!!! Just might work.
We tried, watch the very end lol
Rotella T4
Those links ll be fairly b expensive
Yeah maybe $250 a piece, maybe $350
Algorithm booster
That glass (if flat ) should cost less then $100. Replacing it for free (if it gets broken) they still are VERY over priced.
Welcome to Detroit
Overheated,or froze
Track links will sort them selves out, no need to do anything, just give it some work.
Run the machine on some rock fill soon loosen them pins up
Put a block under it and roll over it using the weight of the tractor,, maybe
Yeah…. Maybe
$10,000-20,000
8:30 I always worry when a dog starts doing that rubbing on the ground thing! Too many times it has resulted in them rubbing in 💩 for some damn reason! I don't know why they do that but its not pretty when it happens. Scrubbing 💩off a dog isn't an easy task whatsoever, especially when they're longer haired. Hope that isn't what's happening right here! 🤦🏻♂️🤔👍🏻🐕🐾🐶😅😅
Thanks @Pigmat I wanna get some to try out too! I see everyone using them on YT, so they must be really good. 😊😊
17:35 Nice score on the 3M super 33. That's the good stuff! 😂😂
29:56 😅That whole pouring oil out of a jug the right way is so simple but so many can't grasp the whole idea! Yes! Let the air out! Spout on top! Grampa was a smart man! Yeah I agree the funnel does collect a tiny bit of dust\junk but I usually keep a twisted up paper towel in it to keep last few drops from leaking out and keep it in a plastic bag too(well at least the ones in my truck). For home shop use check out the magnetic funnel holder(Leslie 50240) to hold your funnels. Also check out the OilUdder flexible magnetic funnel and the EWK flexible oil funnel(form-a-funnel). There are a lot of really cool funnels out there. And when you can't find one just cut up a water bottle or an oil quart container, the power steering(round w\ thin tapered spout) bottles work really well too. Don't not use a funnel cause they may get dirty, you can wipe it out & spray brake-clean easily, so it's ready to go. Anyways sorry for my rambling! 😅🤣🤣
32:07 Half a percent! I think I agree with that one. Grease guns and so many other things are just not common knowledge these days....very sad! I don't think most people can even check their oil, trans levels let alone put air in their own tires. What a sad time we live in right now! If there isn't an app on their iPhone for it, no body can do it in the days we live in now. It really is so freakin sad! 🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤔🛢️🚫🛠️
Yeah f that $300 for that piece of glass is outrageous! If I were you I'd just go to home Depot and buy a sheet of 1/4" plexiglass (or lexan), cut it yourself with a diamond blade grinder and just put that in. $300 is alot for that when you got all this other stuff to buy & fix on all of your machines.
Date those filters please you’ll thank yourself later
So I can see it go another 20 years 🤣🤣
B S