I give you both credit for all you've tried but I myself would have used a pressure washer on the track pins from as many angles as possible to try and clean, loosen any rust or debris around or in the areas between each Link. Then blow out the pins and use the best penetrating oil you have. Tranny fluid works wonders but takes much longer, IMHO. A last ditch idea which I've never tried is to drill a small hole in the pins and then fill with penetration fluids. Make sure to weld the hole shut afterwards. You've got nothing to lose considering what replacement track parts cost plus finding a shop to install them. Didn't you get another NEW track with the Dozer??? Good luck. Thx for another great video guys.😊
@@mikesmith8952 LOL... Penetrating oil... transmission oil. Carbon arc gouge is the solution. No oil, or pressure washer is going to create clearance. Punch a hole through the pin try to get as close to the edge as possible. Guys at the mines use "penetrating oil" to wash their hands in the field.
I have never experienced this issue before, but I think I would try to dig a low spot for that section of track link to fit into. Then line the area with a thick mil plastic and through some of your pig mats below the plastic in case it punctures. Then fill the plastic reservoir with penetrating oil or trans fluid so the pins and links are submerged. Not sure if it would work but that's what I would try at this point, then let it sit submerged for a week or two. Goodluck.
IMO the track kink is not a big deal unless it's an everyday 10 hour machine. Replace the undercarridge parts only after they're 100% worn out and your bank account is very full.
I really appreciate your videos. They very interesting and satisfying. I would love to tear things down, but I could NEVER do what you and your Dad do, putting everything back together. I especially liked the video where your Dad showed the empty cardboard box, showing that all the parts removed were put back into the machine!! Amazing. Looking forward to the next video.
Put the track pad on and run it across some actual rocky terrain. The asymmetric loading of the chain left to right should break that link loose, if it still doesn't break loose then burn the pin out (or drill it) and replace the link. Running the chain on the ground without the grouser just pushes the chain in the ground and doesn't really do much for it. Also tighten the chain up properly, that will force the link to pivot around the wheel properly. One last idea, something that I was told by an old armor restorer. Get a good and hot fire going under that link and let the heat from the fire soak it the link and break it loose. Just hitting a piece of steel with that much mass behind it with a small sledge isn't going to do anything but make you tired.
Grab the next foam cushion you drive by on the side of the road it will save your knee's when you kneel on the tracks for when your 50 or older. Put a trash bag around it if you want to keep it from soaking up oil and such or throw it away. There are always more old couch/chair cushions on the side of the road.
Absolutely! I have several couch cushions to use for kneeling and also staying put when working on shingled roofs! I recently got one of the actual 'Husky' kneeling pads from Home Depot, those are nice for indoor work like furnace, under sink work, etc. Also I have a pair of Duluth Trading flex firehose pants with the knee pads you put into the double knee. I usually never wore kneepads cause the straps wear into the back of your leg, keep sliding down your leg, & are just uncomfortable and annoying af. But kneeling on pads & cushions is easy and much better in the long run, also cushions are useful for other things like leaning over core support to work on trucks, etc. 👍🏻👌🏻🛠️🔧🔩🚜🦺
The hour meter grounding thru an oil pressure switch is so that when the key switch is on but the engine isn’t running, you don’t rack up any hours. When the engine starts, the switch grounds the hourmeter.
I was going to say for preventative maintenance for the tracks use your heavier duty grease on them it'll prevent like dirt and keep debris out of it and it should help in the long run
I save my plastic grocery bags for funnel storage. I clean my funnels after use, wad up two or the bags and stuff them in the funnel then put the funnel another bag with the small end up then put another bag over that. Takes 15 - 20 seconds tops and the funnel is always clean.
I would have thought the track needs to be very tight in order to free up the link rather than slack, this will force it to follow the contour of the idler wheel, when slack there is no tension on it to force it to bend back and forth. Also drill a hole deep enough to see the pin, heat it up and fill the hole with pb blaster, repeat a few times till its freed up by running it, once done weld the hole up again being careful not to weld the pin in.
It rains on these tracks all there life..next time you have one that's froze from setting..park that locked up part of the track in a water hole for a night ...or two.....and zoom.your finished
Pull the pads off so you can get to the pins! Yall need a rose bud for your oxygen /Acetylene torch! Cutting tips don’t put out enough heat! To me it just needs to be used and oiled a lot!
On the kubota engine I guarantee it was over heated. The heads on those engines have thin water port casting. I have it a lot. Got to stay on top of the engine temps when he gets it back up and running. Literally one good over heat and you’ll be in the same boat. The engines are great engines. Last a long time and are really reliable. Just like anything else though proper maintenance and operator awareness is key. Machine was probably ran by an employee who just there for a pay check. You know how that is. It’s not theirs so it not ran and took care of as if it was.
It may sound stupid if you have a pond park the dozer with the stuck pins under water for a week or so. Water caused it to lock up A lot of time water will break break the bond. I have learned that trick from a lot of 0ld timers . If you have to heat them up drive them back in the water . And let them soak Works 90 % of the time Happy days!
They always reckon one man’s trash is another man’s treasure and boy did you guys turn that into gold, what a beautiful old machine to save from the scrappers yard, boy some people never respect the value of old steel do they. Well done on this one, those track pins are mongrels of things aren’t they. Well done, great content, nice length of video to, thanks very much
On your track problem would hydraulic bottle jacks help you get the links freed up? Maybe with some heat added into the mix...nice to see it saved from the scrap heap!
Heat the center piece of it Tyler and let it sit and oil it and let it sit , anything you do will help it to work the penetrating oil into the pin! It seems to be seized in the center piece, Tyler!
So I have noticed that you were heating the track pins. This would expand the pin and make the fit tighter. I would think that you would need to heat the chain, not the pin. This would expand the chain around the pin making the fit looser. I really don't know if this will make a whole lot of difference considering what y'all have done already. I am a 40-year DIY mechanic and that would be the strategy that I would use. Great video, I love the stuff you do. 0:03
I think I saw Clint use carbon arc gouge to turn the stuck pins to liquid. CAN'T BE STUCK IF IT'S LIQUID. Also you could try putting a 1/2 inch shim under your square tubing and above the pin to force the pin to rotate in the links.
If the track pin is stuck, you can only loosen it by pressing it out. chain is assembled with oil/or grease. If you heat it up you will burn the core and it will only get worse. squeeze out and clean? or put in a new one.
Those tracks are not SALT tracks (Sealed And Lubricated Tracks). They may have a seal in them to keep dirt out but it's unlikely. SALT tracks were just starting to become available when the 20E came out so while it could be fitted with SALT tracks those are not.
Guys, theres a Hoe attachment called a vibro plate. A vibratory compactor. Get one on a 225(Cat) sized machine and load the link up with rust busyer for a day or two and then set the viboplate on the link for a minute or two and it should be loose.
On the 4500D we had the same problem they crack very easy they are shit do not add fluid when It is warm or it will crack again and check that clutch fan they will fail and not cool properly also keep checking the screen door for the rad they plug up fast when grass is dry
Might be a good shot if you talked to C&C Equipment. Those guys deal regularly with dozer tracks that aren't behaving. They have a channel on TH-cam with very regular updates. Bull Dozers is equipment they buy and sell and repair.
🤦🏻♂️😅 Not sure if you watched the whole video but he's quite aware of them & was just talking about Clint mentioning the final drive lubrication check! 😅😅
The old way tried and tested way of putting in glass like that is to insert a long peice of woven nylon cord (like a waist band tie from an old waterproof coat) into the side you are pulling through then offer up the glass and bed half to two thirds of it in first, then while gently pushing the glass into place pull the cord out round the peice and it will pop in no drama.
If you could weld a piece of pipe on the end of the pin and big enough ID to fit it hammer chisel gun in it! Heat the pin up, red hot and let it cool down and heat it up again and hammer chisel in on the end of the pin! It should start moving! I’ve never seen spraying it with penetrating oil on a hot pin does any good! It just smokes and burns off! If you have time heat it and let it cool then spray it and let it sit for a night and then heat the hell out of it and drive it! Just a procedure I’ve used in the past! But we always had porta power hydraulic jacks!
A couple of ideas on your track. I would pressure wash the link joints first to get rid of any packed dirt, etc. keep using your penetrating oil. Try cutting a 12-16” diameter section of hardwood log and set it up to run over it at the bad links to force them up. Probably be able to lift the front far enough off the ground to set it under the track. Might be able to put a section pipe between the sprockets and the links to force them out. If you had a backhoe or excavator, you could use that to push and pull on the links. You can also have a HD equipment shop come out and push your pins out and push them back in. $165.00/hrs. in upstate NY last time I checked. Most likely more now. On a safety note, you probably want to drop your blade when you get out of any dozer. Just not a good idea leaving it up when you’re working on it. Good luck. Interested in seeing how you guys make out on it.
In old equipment I will generally put in T4. I feel like the detergents in the full synthetic will blow out all the build up around the seals and make them leak later. I put T6 in all my new equipment. It's expensive oil but I want the equipment to out live me.
Many “content makers” are changing to doing the work and narrating later so they don’t feel the need to fill the videos at the time… hope it helps you! Thanks for the videos
By the way with those track kinks. After you let the grease out and it loosened up, that would satisfy me that a bearing was not going to be overstressed.
On the track link I would use a track hoe to push down and then wrap a log chain around and use it to lift up and just keep pushing down lifting up pushing down lifting up
Dude, love your vids. Just a headsup: there's something wrong with your mic setup tho, I think it's stereo instead of mono for speech. It gets wonky on some devices if it's not mono.
@43:15 couldn't you just pull the two seized pins and lube the crap out of everything? Or is the prospect of getting them lined back up to reinsert it daunting enough to avoid at all costs? I realize you'd probably need to go grab a little excavator to lift it back into place etc.
Do you reckon running the track over something like a bit of bore pipe or a lump of concrete to focus localized load on the frozen links and thereby use the weight of the machine to work the pins free could work?
If link is froze, my idea would be to wait for extreme cold (below zero). Then go out and heat the outside while keeping inner pin cold. Then drive it, maybe wedge wood between track and spocket trying to get it break free. Good luck.
Try filling a grease gun from a 5 gallon bucket of grease! The farmer that I worked for as a teenager wouldn’t buy grease tubes! He was cheap and bought grease by the 5 gallon bucket! I had to haul that nasty 5 gallon bucket to grease in the back of my truck every day! But fill the grease gun from a bucket and then you have to burp the air out of it to use it! It sucks but I learned how to do it and I know others don’t know how! It takes a knack to fill it!
I see a air ark coming to blow those expensive pins out. Although that is going to require quite a large welder with air ark availability..... Quite the fight but a nice looking machine given its day in the sun. Must be someone who will want a winch setup like this... a very good video, and yes who ever made the mistake of putting a filter on backwards got lucky for you to not have had some kind of failure .... but stuff like this happens when the men doing that work have thirty hours plus on the clock doing work of two guys
@@dieseJL One of the reasons I do enjoy and when seeing you post, I immediately click onto, to enjoy seeing your growth on machinery. Your also kind enough to reply which makes it worth these comments we make. Happy to hear the machine is now a usable piece of equipment. You folks certainly have your work cut out for you. I think back on land cleared by people before, and then I was there years later to find that this same ground that looked pretty good for the people using it .... well mother nature had just taken it back to a point of not resembling anyone of being there before. You have a great little family started and seeing that portion is a reminder of me fifty years ago enjoying see my wife smile and bringing back some wonderful memories.
An oldtimer i knew said water seized them and water will free them, park it in a creek with those links submerged Another buddy had an IH250 loader with frozen links, ran it over concrete and they never freed up, made for a rough ride Yet another took to a track shop that still had a pin press
Did you notice that as soon as you were prepared for a mess with that pig mat you barely spilt a drop? When you aren't prepared.....gallons of filthy oil spilling everywhere. Never fails.
They were a nice machine in their day. As for those track pins I would just ignore them and run it. They will break loose eventually, might take a couple of full days work though. It's not going to do any damage and when they do loosen up they are not going cause you to throw a track which is probably the worst possible scenario.
@@dieseJL From what I can determine you have run that machine for a couple of hours over several months? That being the case I would be surprised that anything was showing significant wear at all, let alone "oddly". There could possibly a slight increase on tooth loading as those two stuck pins go over the sprocket and slightly increased wear at the pin to sprocket interface but those would only become relevant at hundreds of hours. The other possible issue would be slightly increased point loading as those links go over each roller. But that is irrelevant because that is the case every time you track over a rock. If there are alignment wear issues then that would not be caused by the stuck links so you would need to determine what is causing that. What you want to do is run that machine for a full day on hard rocky ground. The continued impacts will break them loose. To replace those links you will need a 70 to 100 ton track press which I assume you do not have on hand. That will allow you to fit new pins and bushes. To get the seized ones out would probably require 150 tons. If you are going to do that you would be better off cutting through the pin and bush so that you only have to press the cut pin out of one link not two which could possibly be done on a 30 to 40 ton press. You are not going to be able to do it with a sledge hammer or an air hammer that and you run the risk of belling the end of the pin which is only going to make it worse.
Idk I would have just run those pins for a while to see if they would loosen. I dont see how a stuck pin is any worse than the dirt and rocks that go through the chain and sprocket normally.
C&C equipment has all of your parts and tech-to rebuild any equipment machines,,, they are on TH-cam,and Clint is the onwer and the phone number is right on the channel, thanks BigAl California.
With the long metal bar, wedged in one link to the other, force it to bend. May even need longer bar that is stiff enough not to bend, but if you get 1/8 of an inch, repeat back and forth until totally free ?
I hate to say it but the only thing that track needed was you to start putting the power to the ground. Driving on perfectly smooth ground idling won’t do it but 15 minutes of pushing trees and piles of dirt she’d be happy and flexible. Those tracks will need tightening the second day you run it.
1:19:04 LOL. We would get along just fine. Pay a mobile welder to come out to carbon arc or lance the pins. Want to play with big equipment all the costs and tools increase exponentially. I have no doubt you guys will get it sorted out.
@@dieseJL Yup. It only takes one round to learn that lesson. I've let guys build wild jack fixtures. Still end up burning them out. Going after it with a torch is no fun either.
Just curious, is EVERYTHING (all the equipment behind the golf course) running now? There must be something in another set of weeds somewhere. I am looking forward to the next mechanical adventure!!!!
Kubota head cracks, definitely caused by some idiot putting cold coolant into a very hot engine that has been run to overheating temps. If you want the track pins to move with driving the machine forward and back, tighten the tracks more to force a bend after the bolt straightening procedure. You could try heat and cold quench as well with plenty of WD40.
If you’re going to punch the pins out, consider using exothermic. It isn’t difficult to use and only needs an oxygen and 12v battery. I’ve only used the Broco setup; it ran well.
If you don’t think we tried enough with the track pins watch my dad throw the kitchen sink at it at the very end of the video 🤣
I give you both credit for all you've tried but I myself would have used a pressure washer on the track pins from as many angles as possible to try and clean, loosen any rust or debris around or in the areas between each Link. Then blow out the pins and use the best penetrating oil you have. Tranny fluid works wonders but takes much longer, IMHO. A last ditch idea which I've never tried is to drill a small hole in the pins and then fill with penetration fluids. Make sure to weld the hole shut afterwards. You've got nothing to lose considering what replacement track parts cost plus finding a shop to install them. Didn't you get another NEW track with the Dozer??? Good luck. Thx for another great video guys.😊
@@mikesmith8952 LOL... Penetrating oil... transmission oil. Carbon arc gouge is the solution. No oil, or pressure washer is going to create clearance. Punch a hole through the pin try to get as close to the edge as possible. Guys at the mines use "penetrating oil" to wash their hands in the field.
PB blaster
I have never experienced this issue before, but I think I would try to dig a low spot for that section of track link to fit into. Then line the area with a thick mil plastic and through some of your pig mats below the plastic in case it punctures. Then fill the plastic reservoir with penetrating oil or trans fluid so the pins and links are submerged. Not sure if it would work but that's what I would try at this point, then let it sit submerged for a week or two. Goodluck.
Maybe plastic, pig mats and another layer of plastic...
IMO the track kink is not a big deal unless it's an everyday 10 hour machine. Replace the undercarridge parts only after they're 100% worn out and your bank account is very full.
It was wearing stuff in an abnormal way. Hate to try and save a few bucks now and have it cost us big in the long run
I really appreciate your videos. They very interesting and satisfying. I would love to tear things down, but I could NEVER do what you and your Dad do, putting everything back together. I especially liked the video where your Dad showed the empty cardboard box, showing that all the parts removed were put back into the machine!! Amazing. Looking forward to the next video.
Yes the filter was on backwards. You installed it correctly.
Kudos to the glass company for doing the right thing!
Put the track pad on and run it across some actual rocky terrain. The asymmetric loading of the chain left to right should break that link loose, if it still doesn't break loose then burn the pin out (or drill it) and replace the link. Running the chain on the ground without the grouser just pushes the chain in the ground and doesn't really do much for it. Also tighten the chain up properly, that will force the link to pivot around the wheel properly. One last idea, something that I was told by an old armor restorer. Get a good and hot fire going under that link and let the heat from the fire soak it the link and break it loose. Just hitting a piece of steel with that much mass behind it with a small sledge isn't going to do anything but make you tired.
Grab the next foam cushion you drive by on the side of the road it will save your knee's when you kneel on the tracks for when your 50 or older. Put a trash bag around it if you want to keep it from soaking up oil and such or throw it away. There are always more old couch/chair cushions on the side of the road.
Absolutely! I have several couch cushions to use for kneeling and also staying put when working on shingled roofs! I recently got one of the actual 'Husky' kneeling pads from Home Depot, those are nice for indoor work like furnace, under sink work, etc. Also I have a pair of Duluth Trading flex firehose pants with the knee pads you put into the double knee. I usually never wore kneepads cause the straps wear into the back of your leg, keep sliding down your leg, & are just uncomfortable and annoying af. But kneeling on pads & cushions is easy and much better in the long run, also cushions are useful for other things like leaning over core support to work on trucks, etc. 👍🏻👌🏻🛠️🔧🔩🚜🦺
The thing was charging. Ya'll never left the meter on long enough. I watched it rising perfectly.
The hour meter grounding thru an oil pressure switch is so that when the key switch is on but the engine isn’t running, you don’t rack up any hours. When the engine starts, the switch grounds the hourmeter.
High pressure hose to soften the dirt and wash it out. Tighten the track to force it.
sorry for the bad export @1:05:57 - skip ahead to 1:06:50 to let the fun continue!
Thought I had been hacked there for a second until I moved the mouse and seen the video was still running.....lol
I was going to say for preventative maintenance for the tracks use your heavier duty grease on them it'll prevent like dirt and keep debris out of it and it should help in the long run
I save my plastic grocery bags for funnel storage. I clean my funnels after use, wad up two or the bags and stuff them in the funnel then put the funnel another bag with the small end up then put another bag over that. Takes 15 - 20 seconds tops and the funnel is always clean.
I would have thought the track needs to be very tight in order to free up the link rather than slack, this will force it to follow the contour of the idler wheel, when slack there is no tension on it to force it to bend back and forth. Also drill a hole deep enough to see the pin, heat it up and fill the hole with pb blaster, repeat a few times till its freed up by running it, once done weld the hole up again being careful not to weld the pin in.
Drill. A. Hole. Iñ. It. Ha it. Is. As. Hard. AS. A. HARLETS. HEART
It rains on these tracks all there life..next time you have one that's froze from setting..park that locked up part of the track in a water hole for a night ...or two.....and zoom.your finished
Park that part of the track in a water hole over night and zoom your finish ed
Pull the pads off so you can get to the pins! Yall need a rose bud for your oxygen /Acetylene torch! Cutting tips don’t put out enough heat! To me it just needs to be used and oiled a lot!
Stay tuned 😬
Don't heat it, you cook the oil and the seals and stuff it completely, give it some work and it will free up.
Add a quart of Dexron ATF to your fuel tank when full. Raises cetane, and cleans and lubes internal fuel system parts.
Never heard of that. In Alaska we would 1 gal of gas to 55 gallons of diesel anti gel and easier to start in winter.
Good to see you and your dad working together again! I hope the rest of your family is doing well, Tyler! 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻❤️❤️
We are all doing great 👍🏻
On the kubota engine I guarantee it was over heated. The heads on those engines have thin water port casting. I have it a lot. Got to stay on top of the engine temps when he gets it back up and running. Literally one good over heat and you’ll be in the same boat. The engines are great engines. Last a long time and are really reliable. Just like anything else though proper maintenance and operator awareness is key. Machine was probably ran by an employee who just there for a pay check. You know how that is. It’s not theirs so it not ran and took care of as if it was.
Of course I watch Matt and Clint love your channel just as much try to never miss an episode
Thanks!
Enjoy seeing people bring back to life these dozers. Good job enjoyed the content!
Sometimes heating it up red hot with a rosebud and dousing it quickly with cold water will shock it to loosen rust by expansion and contraction.
Tried that 😓
It may sound stupid if you have a pond park the dozer with the stuck pins under water for a week or so. Water caused it to lock up
A lot of time water will break break the bond. I have learned that trick from a lot of 0ld timers . If you have to heat them up drive them back in the water . And let them soak
Works 90 % of the time
Happy days!
Man I have heard that a lot. Crazy but must work…
They always reckon one man’s trash is another man’s treasure and boy did you guys turn that into gold, what a beautiful old machine to save from the scrappers yard, boy some people never respect the value of old steel do they. Well done on this one, those track pins are mongrels of things aren’t they. Well done, great content, nice length of video to, thanks very much
Thanks for the support!
On your track problem would hydraulic bottle jacks help you get the links freed up? Maybe with some heat added into the mix...nice to see it saved from the scrap heap!
The winch is used for a counter weight to the blade, it improves your longitudinal weight balance
Fair
Heat the center piece of it Tyler and let it sit and oil it and let it sit , anything you do will help it to work the penetrating oil into the pin! It seems to be seized in the center piece, Tyler!
Man, I wish I knew this much about ANYTHING! You're one hell of a handy guy. Love your videos buddy
Thanks!
So I have noticed that you were heating the track pins. This would expand the pin and make the fit tighter. I would think that you would need to heat the chain, not the pin. This would expand the chain around the pin making the fit looser. I really don't know if this will make a whole lot of difference considering what y'all have done already. I am a 40-year DIY mechanic and that would be the strategy that I would use. Great video, I love the stuff you do. 0:03
Thanks! There’s a sleeve that the pin is loose in. That’s where it froze and where we were heating.
I think I saw Clint use carbon arc gouge to turn the stuck pins to liquid. CAN'T BE STUCK IF IT'S LIQUID. Also you could try putting a 1/2 inch shim under your square tubing and above the pin to force the pin to rotate in the links.
Tyler hasn't much tools and equipments and might have to truck the dozer to someone who has the carbon arc to replace the two pins.
If the track pin is stuck, you can only loosen it by pressing it out. chain is assembled with oil/or grease. If you heat it up you will burn the core and it will only get worse. squeeze out and clean? or put in a new one.
Those tracks are not SALT tracks (Sealed And Lubricated Tracks). They may have a seal in them to keep dirt out but it's unlikely. SALT tracks were just starting to become available when the 20E came out so while it could be fitted with SALT tracks those are not.
Guys, theres a Hoe attachment called a vibro plate. A vibratory compactor. Get one on a 225(Cat) sized machine and load the link up with rust busyer for a day or two and then set the viboplate on the link for a minute or two and it should be loose.
C & C equipment have a trackpin extractor, pin is rusted, seized , distorted.
He knows that C&C Equipment will always help him out with the correct solution
I really do need to hang out with Clint 🤔
how about chains and a bottle jack ? put the jack on the jammed link, chain the next 2 links, pass the chain over the jack and start jacking ?
On the 4500D we had the same problem they crack very easy they are shit do not add fluid when It is warm or it will crack again and check that clutch fan they will fail and not cool properly also keep checking the screen door for the rad they plug up fast when grass is dry
replace the glass with polycarbonate . cut onsite, cheap easy and strong. add a soft laminate for scratch protection.
Might be a good shot if you talked to C&C Equipment. Those guys deal regularly with dozer tracks that aren't behaving. They have a channel on TH-cam with very regular updates. Bull Dozers is equipment they buy and sell and repair.
🤦🏻♂️😅 Not sure if you watched the whole video but he's quite aware of them & was just talking about Clint mentioning the final drive lubrication check! 😅😅
Lol
The old way tried and tested way of putting in glass like that is to insert a long peice of woven nylon cord (like a waist band tie from an old waterproof coat) into the side you are pulling through then offer up the glass and bed half to two thirds of it in first, then while gently pushing the glass into place pull the cord out round the peice and it will pop in no drama.
Yeah roping-in the glass is how it's done. A little lubrication helps -dawn dish soap works well.
Did you see how this seal was two piece? I didn’t think it would work that way
Those darn track pins!!!
Stick a heavy pry bar in the sprocket tooth under the frozen pin and back it up over the bar
If you could weld a piece of pipe on the end of the pin and big enough ID to fit it hammer chisel gun in it! Heat the pin up, red hot and let it cool down and heat it up again and hammer chisel in on the end of the pin! It should start moving! I’ve never seen spraying it with penetrating oil on a hot pin does any good! It just smokes and burns off! If you have time heat it and let it cool then spray it and let it sit for a night and then heat the hell out of it and drive it! Just a procedure I’ve used in the past! But we always had porta power hydraulic jacks!
A couple of ideas on your track. I would pressure wash the link joints first to get rid of any packed dirt, etc. keep using your penetrating oil. Try cutting a 12-16” diameter section of hardwood log and set it up to run over it at the bad links to force them up. Probably be able to lift the front far enough off the ground to set it under the track. Might be able to put a section pipe between the sprockets and the links to force them out. If you had a backhoe or excavator, you could use that to push and pull on the links. You can also have a HD equipment shop come out and push your pins out and push them back in. $165.00/hrs. in upstate NY last time I checked. Most likely more now. On a safety note, you probably want to drop your blade when you get out of any dozer. Just not a good idea leaving it up when you’re working on it. Good luck. Interested in seeing how you guys make out on it.
In old equipment I will generally put in T4. I feel like the detergents in the full synthetic will blow out all the build up around the seals and make them leak later. I put T6 in all my new equipment. It's expensive oil but I want the equipment to out live me.
Thank you for sharing, another great video , i like your project 👍👍👍👍
Many “content makers” are changing to doing the work and narrating later so they don’t feel the need to fill the videos at the time… hope it helps you! Thanks for the videos
Thanks for the support!
I've been waiting for a new video! Wish u could upload more. 😊
I run T4 in my dodge it was good when it was new so good for me now
By the way with those track kinks. After you let the grease out and it loosened up, that would satisfy me that a bearing was not going to be overstressed.
Frozen links will never fix themselves. Heating with that welding tip not even close to enough heat rosebud! And a big one. But trackpress even better
Yeah I finally got myself a proper torch
How about air arc gouge them out? I've seen IC Weld do it. If you can find a guy with that equipment close by.
Yeah would be nice but you need welder power and big air. We just torched them out
Could you over tighten that track to put more pressure on the links as they pass over the sprocket and idler?
Yikes would put a lot of stress on the final. Could be much more expensive than a new track.
next time pour motor oil on the stuck track, then use a hydraulic jack from the undercarriage to chain to press them to move.
Dude! Love your work, but hook the belt over the bottom fin and "walk" it fin by fin onto its appropriate pulley!
It'll save you an aneurism!
🤠👍
Pops determined for sure!!!
On the track link I would use a track hoe to push down and then wrap a log chain around and use it to lift up and just keep pushing down lifting up pushing down lifting up
Exactly. And spraying Rust buster and Diesel on the pin as you go .
Put a pipe on the sprocket under the link ,drive it back and forth it will bend the link then straighten again repeat until lose .
Dude, love your vids. Just a headsup: there's something wrong with your mic setup tho, I think it's stereo instead of mono for speech. It gets wonky on some devices if it's not mono.
@43:15 couldn't you just pull the two seized pins and lube the crap out of everything? Or is the prospect of getting them lined back up to reinsert it daunting enough to avoid at all costs? I realize you'd probably need to go grab a little excavator to lift it back into place etc.
Do you reckon running the track over something like a bit of bore pipe or a lump of concrete to focus localized load on the frozen links and thereby use the weight of the machine to work the pins free could work?
Yes
She's a beauty you should be proud to own it.
An oil change on that engine is imperative if fuel is in it.Also a clear free flow air intake on that engine is critical.Don't skimp on air filters.
I did replace air filters with Wix. Not sure why it didn’t show.
If link is froze, my idea would be to wait for extreme cold (below zero). Then go out and heat the outside while keeping inner pin cold. Then drive it, maybe wedge wood between track and spocket trying to get it break free. Good luck.
I use T5 in my diesel truck when I had it.
It’s should be illegal to scrap something in such good condition like this machine.
Wondering if that was a military dozer. Those Packard electrical connectors are what all the military equipment use
I would helpled you with the glass, I did that for a living in the late 70's
laminated glass has to be cut on both sides as its two pieces of glass... The run could have happened after cutting but the " flaw" was in it....
Yeah that’s funny. That’s exactly what they said!
Try filling a grease gun from a 5 gallon bucket of grease! The farmer that I worked for as a teenager wouldn’t buy grease tubes! He was cheap and bought grease by the 5 gallon bucket! I had to haul that nasty 5 gallon bucket to grease in the back of my truck every day! But fill the grease gun from a bucket and then you have to burp the air out of it to use it! It sucks but I learned how to do it and I know others don’t know how! It takes a knack to fill it!
We did the same. No grease cartridges. Just pull the grease gun full from the bucket and get the trick to get the air out 😄
Wow
Don 't think grease tunes were available in the early 50s when I was working for a custom hay operator, plenty of 5 gallon buckets!
That thing is in amazing condition as far as clean goes
Stuck links… tension the track to tighter than normal… then go,for a drive. Breaks them free 99% of the time. Tension to spec and run with it.
Yeah I was saying this the whole time they were fighting it 😂
Love your channel!!!.....GO LIONS ONE PRIDE!
I see a air ark coming to blow those expensive pins out. Although that is going to require quite a large welder with air ark availability..... Quite the fight but a nice looking machine given its day in the sun. Must be someone who will want a winch setup like this... a very good video, and yes who ever made the mistake of putting a filter on backwards got lucky for you to not have had some kind of failure .... but stuff like this happens when the men doing that work have thirty hours plus on the clock doing work of two guys
We just torched them out. Thanks for the support!
@@dieseJL One of the reasons I do enjoy and when seeing you post, I immediately click onto, to enjoy seeing your growth on machinery. Your also kind enough to reply which makes it worth these comments we make. Happy to hear the machine is now a usable piece of equipment. You folks certainly have your work cut out for you. I think back on land cleared by people before, and then I was there years later to find that this same ground that looked pretty good for the people using it .... well mother nature had just taken it back to a point of not resembling anyone of being there before. You have a great little family started and seeing that portion is a reminder of me fifty years ago enjoying see my wife smile and bringing back some wonderful memories.
Well I never said it was fixed yet haha…
But thank you for the kind words and support!!
I just replaced the head on my Kubota L35, it had the same cracks at those little ports (not sure what they are) as yours did
Must’ve overheated
An oldtimer i knew said water seized them and water will free them, park it in a creek with those links submerged
Another buddy had an IH250 loader with frozen links, ran it over concrete and they never freed up, made for a rough ride
Yet another took to a track shop that still had a pin press
In Michigan apparently you just park it in Lake Huron.
1:17:10 the dozer almost looks like new now. 😆😉
Except for that track
Did you notice that as soon as you were prepared for a mess with that pig mat you barely spilt a drop? When you aren't prepared.....gallons of filthy oil spilling everywhere. Never fails.
Either way there wasn’t a huge mess haha
They were a nice machine in their day.
As for those track pins I would just ignore them and run it. They will break loose eventually, might take a couple of full days work though. It's not going to do any damage and when they do loosen up they are not going cause you to throw a track which is probably the worst possible scenario.
We’re not really comfortable with it it was wearing stuff oddly
@@dieseJL From what I can determine you have run that machine for a couple of hours over several months?
That being the case I would be surprised that anything was showing significant wear at all, let alone "oddly".
There could possibly a slight increase on tooth loading as those two stuck pins go over the sprocket and slightly increased wear at the pin to sprocket interface but those would only become relevant at hundreds of hours. The other possible issue would be slightly increased point loading as those links go over each roller. But that is irrelevant because that is the case every time you track over a rock.
If there are alignment wear issues then that would not be caused by the stuck links so you would need to determine what is causing that.
What you want to do is run that machine for a full day on hard rocky ground. The continued impacts will break them loose.
To replace those links you will need a 70 to 100 ton track press which I assume you do not have on hand. That will allow you to fit new pins and bushes. To get the seized ones out would probably require 150 tons. If you are going to do that you would be better off cutting through the pin and bush so that you only have to press the cut pin out of one link not two which could possibly be done on a 30 to 40 ton press. You are not going to be able to do it with a sledge hammer or an air hammer that and you run the risk of belling the end of the pin which is only going to make it worse.
Backwards filter for sure, that's nuts.
The poor trans 😓
Pig mats? A Funnel? Wow. Never thought I'd see the day...
Hey what can I say we do listen to you guys…
Heat those links and let them cool and do that a few times! It’ll loosen up after a while!
Idk I would have just run those pins for a while to see if they would loosen. I dont see how a stuck pin is any worse than the dirt and rocks that go through the chain and sprocket normally.
C&C equipment has all of your parts and tech-to rebuild any equipment machines,,, they are on TH-cam,and Clint is the onwer and the phone number is right on the channel, thanks BigAl California.
Thanks big Al!
That is so cool I love to have nice one in my yard.but I love thfem
You know you're in S.E. Michigan... the State (Orange & White) Road Tree is flourishing....
What if you put a bottle jack between the track adjuster frame and jacked the track up to get it to bend?
that is the same place I worked at about 5 years ago
Where
@@dieseJL that's easy king of cars AKA golf carts I used to work on Bernie before they permanently close them down
I think you might have to change the linkage out looks like the pin is stuck in the clip
With the long metal bar, wedged in one link to the other, force it to bend. May even need longer bar that is stiff enough not to bend, but if you get 1/8 of an inch, repeat back and forth until totally free ?
I’m not that strong 😬😬😬
just bolt a bucket upside down over the exhaust . and have it tipped a tiny bit away from the cab. no flapping/ banging.
Rose buds are awesome!!!!
I hate to say it but the only thing that track needed was you to start putting the power to the ground. Driving on perfectly smooth ground idling won’t do it but 15 minutes of pushing trees and piles of dirt she’d be happy and flexible. Those tracks will need tightening the second day you run it.
The link will fix it self. These pins are sealed. I don’t recommend heating them. Run it by digging with it. Just driving it is not enough.
These are not sealed and lubricated actually
1:19:04 LOL. We would get along just fine.
Pay a mobile welder to come out to carbon arc or lance the pins. Want to play with big equipment all the costs and tools increase exponentially. I have no doubt you guys will get it sorted out.
I just torched them out but it was a humbling experience. You will see on the next video. But… I learned a lot
@@dieseJL Yup. It only takes one round to learn that lesson. I've let guys build wild jack fixtures. Still end up burning them out. Going after it with a torch is no fun either.
ran over a good sized rock a few times...it worked....once
Lol
Just curious, is EVERYTHING (all the equipment behind the golf course) running now? There must be something in another set of weeds somewhere. I am looking forward to the next mechanical adventure!!!!
Pig mats are great! I'd use a putty knife rather then a screwdriver to scrape.
Tyler you have a awsome Dad
I do I do
Kubota head cracks, definitely caused by some idiot putting cold coolant into a very hot engine that has been run to overheating temps. If you want the track pins to move with driving the machine forward and back, tighten the tracks more to force a bend after the bolt straightening procedure. You could try heat and cold quench as well with plenty of WD40.
Yeah but if you spray them with some brake clean to clean them out!
I keep my funnels upside-down in a box..... normally with a rag over the whole
Good video guys your dads a cool guy!!!
Did you consider tracking those links over a boulder or log and using the weight of the machine to move them? Just a thought.
Man we tried a lot… seemed like we were wasting our time and they would never be right
If you’re going to punch the pins out, consider using exothermic. It isn’t difficult to use and only needs an oxygen and 12v battery. I’ve only used the Broco setup; it ran well.
Huh, I will have to google that
C&C Equipment’s latest video (Gravel in Engine 450G) has Clint using an exothermic oxy-lance…time stamp ~25:00.