Great work, Myles. I'm about to build an MPCNC V1 and, like you, I would like to use a larger spindle. I already have a 2.kw water cooled spindle with a VFD. I'm planning to build a 2' square machine so would be very grateful for your detailed advice as to what changes I should be making to the Burly version (which I believe is sturdier than the original). Many thanks for your time and many thanks for sharing your enthusiasm.
Thanks for your message Jim. It’s a very exciting journey and so much to learn! I think you should be ok with a 2.2kw spindle on a 2’ machine... the 2.2kw spindle is VERY heavy and be sure to get ridged tubes, other wise you will certainly get a dip in your center of your cutting area. Since the video I have also inserted a flat steel bar into my center tubes to stop horizontal flex and works really well without sacrificing cable management. I would also suggest keeping the machine short on z axis (no more than 4inches) to assist vertical stability. Besides that, the great part of the build is that you can always adjust later! Good luck with the build 👍
@@NEWTechCreative That flat steel bar idea is brilliant! Are they a snug fit or are they fastened inside the pipe somehow? And they remain horizontal while using the machine i.e. they don't move around? And are they only installed on sliding carriage pipes? Sorry for all the questions.
Hi Christopher. I must have missed your comment. I’m using a raspberry pi with a 7inch touch screen with the Pi OS and running universal gcode sender! I don’t have a video setup but read through the wiki and the should get you on the right track.
I know this is an older video, but FYI, IN SOLIDWORKS I COMPARED THE DEFLECTION OF 1" RAILS WITH DIFFERENT WALL THICKNESS AND SOLID. I FOUND THAT .25" WALL 1" DOM TUBE HAS 25% LESS DEFLECTION THAN A 1" SOLID RAIL. THE REASON FOR THIS IS THE 1" SOLID RAIL WEIGHS MORE CAUSING MORE SAG, THE 1/4" WALL DOM IS AVAIALBE FROM METAL SUPPLIES AND BALANCES THE MOST STRENGTH TO WEIGHT (STILL WEIGHING 2LBS PER FT SO VERY HEFTY) ENGINEERING SHOWS YOU GET MOST OF YOUR STRENGTH FROM YOUR OUTER DIAMETER AND WALL THICKNESS AND NOT THE CENTER CORE.
Great Videos... Many thanks for sharing your designs with the community which is very much appreciated. As I am in the middle of a MPCNC build and still not sure about my size, may I ask you for your X, Y and Z working space? Many thanks in advance and kind regards from northern Germany. Robi
Thank you for your kind comments Robi. My working area is 900mm x 550mm and z200mm. I built this way at first as I didn’t know exactly what size I would use mostly. I think I would still drop my z height as I don’t need so high. The x & y axis have been perfect for fitting standard 900mm boards from hardware shop and no need to cut down. Good luck with the build 👍😁
This is great video! Very informative. Can you elaborate on the solid bar you used on the outer rim? I'm just starting my build and that seems like something I should do right out of the gate.
Thanks for your message @Jim F . Good to see you doing your research before starting. As I have the Burly version (Old version) is assume the setup is the same for the new one. I purchase solid 25mm bar from the local steel shop and had them cut to size. I only used solid bar for the out slider rails and hollow for the x and y bar so I could pass through cables and reduce overall weight. It made a huge difference with overall ‘sag’ and general movement in all directions when cutting. When purchasing hollow tubes, place pressure half way down and check for amount of flex… a little flex is ok. The thicker the wall of tube the better. Hope I’ve helped. Good luck with the journey 😁😁
Surely the outer bars will only matter for Z axis rigidity - in each of the X and Y axis all of the load is on the middle bar and the two motors. Unless I'm missing something, the solid bars should be used for the middle bars?
Thanks for your comments Josh! Yes you are correct in saying that this is mainly for the z axis, however does assist also in the x and y to reduce what I call the bow and arrow effect when running at faster feed rates (bowing in the bar when pushing, then releasing when through material causing a ‘flick’ out). I could have used on the middle bars however I didn’t want to re-route all wires on the outside and consequently having cable chains around the entire perimeter.... if you chose to use all solid bar, I could imagine this would be a very sturdy machine!!!
Great question @Paul Bell . I’m really not sure sorry 😞 I haven’t built a primo to test out. I’m am doubtful, however I did see a similar one someone made for the primo… you might have to go on a hunt to find it! Hope your enjoying the CNC life!
Im a bit confused on the round stock. I just ordered about 25 feet of solid round stock for my cnc as I got the idea from your video. But I then listened closer and heard you said you kept some tubing so that you'd be Able to feed your wiring through? Would it not be possible to use solid stock all the way around? Thanks love the build!
@@NEWTechCreative awesome what about the legs? And I'm trying to figure out if the "outside" rails are the gantry rails or the slides. Because I know its not both but I just don't know which it is. Thanks again for the feedback!
Yes @Paulie Jueckstock , The legs I used were also solid bar. The only hollow tubing I used was the “moving” tubes that cross through the centre gantry/spindle z axis.
This is great work!!! All of the mods were well thought out. I’d love to see a comparison of quality to show how much more accurate your machine is now...that would be the icing on the cake for others
Unfortunately the link I purchased from is no longer available @Denis G. I would suggest finding your local online supplier and purchasing from them! Use the search ‘1.5kw air cooled spindle with vfd’. Thank you 😊
Hi ! I built a MPCNC Primo and I was looking for a vaccum shoe. Your is really intersting but doens'y fit my rail size (25mm) Koala Vac v2. I you have a step file of the top attachment or if anyone has already made one it's amazing
Thanks for your comment! The 25.4mm version will fit the 25mm as well, however this is not a product that I’ve had a chance to refine and needs some more adjustments to work effectively! You will need to make some type of gasket for the connection between the internal sliding piece! You are more then welcome to try out and provide feedback. Thank you 😁😁
Hi Myles, well done with this it's truly inspiring. GREAT BUILD!!! Because of this video I will also be attempting a MPCNC. I do have some experience with carbon fiber though and would like to hear your opinion on using carbon fiber rigid tubes in stead of mild steel or stainless.
Thank you for you kind words Deon! I’m please that it has inspired you. There is so much to learn through this project. I’m not that knowledgeable about carbon fiber tubing however I would check the product out in the shop if you can before hand. I tend to look down center hollow of tube with end touching floor then push in center of tube to see any variance in tubing. Good luck with the build and would love to hear how it goes.
@@NEWTechCreative Thanks, that is "solid" advise. Hahaha. I agree that it should be as rigid as possible. On another forum someone mentioned that the lighter the cross sections the more "outside interference" could react on it. (Basically the heavier the better for stability), I'm also interested in your electronic setup, since I'm also considering using an Arduino.
@@deonbotha1925I know this is an old comment and I don't know how far along you might be but for anyone 4lse that may come along and read this I thought I would add my experiences. I used EMT conduit for mine (north America) and I regret it. The galvanizing flakes off and the tubes flatten with wear because of the soft zinc galvenizing. Its not a huge deal but if I did it again I would use stainless tubes and get as thick and rigid as I could afford. As for the electronics, I used a RAMPS board on a Mega2560 and nearly gave up because of code issues and lost stpes. Switched to an SKR board and life was worth living again. Spend the extra on a powerful 32bit board...
Hi Gary! Fantastic. I have two spindle mounts on my Thingiverse... the newer one is more comparable with the koala vac if you end up using. Yes my grbl runs off an arduino uno and I use separate ST-M5045 stepper motor drivers for each axis... I designed this way as I wanted to upgrade to a larger machine one day and they can handle large amps if needed especially if working with nema23’s. I might do a video regarding some options when it comes to grbl setup. Enjoy and thanks for subscribing 👍
@@NEWTechCreative great thanks, I am reprinting a couple parts, cracked a few while putting together and also the roller plate I had the hole was to small,
Thanks for you comment @FreshAnton. I have just transferred all files to my thangs profile. Search NewTechcreative on thangs to access my downloads! Thanks for reminding me 😊 I’ll change links shortly 👍
I’m using a 1.5kw air cooled spindle and weighs around 2.8kgs. Yes the Nema17 never skipped a beat with this motor... I did have active cooling and set the amperage to 2Amps to get the most out of the motor. Hope that’s helped
It's a really great video and your constructions and your upgrades are also really great. I actually have two questions. How did you attach the brushes on the coala vac. What kind of spindle did you use? Thank you and greetings from bavaria
Thank you for your kind words! I purchased the dust cover brush online and just cut to size and attached with a hot glue gun. You could also 3D print bristles with flexible filament if you have available. I purchased a 1.5kw aircooled spindle with VFD from eBay. Hope this answers your questions! Thank you
Awesome upgrades, thank you! Subscribed. Love your vac attachment and stepper fan housings. My motors run super hot. Are you running independent power lines for all of your extra fans? Are you connecting these to your mainboard or to a separate power supply? Any specific fan suggestions?
Thanks Ruben! Yes I connected the fans to a separate 24v power supply so the run as soon as I turn the CNC on. I’m sure that they can also be run off an output from your chosen board, however check your voltage of fans and what supply the need. You can purchase a 12v and 24v versions online to match what you need. You could always connect a relay or switching component in you would like control from your board with an external power supply. Glad these could help out!!
Hi Adiv! I’m using a 1.5kw air cooled spindle with VFD. Works really well on the MPCNC, however I have gone to the effort of strengthening the frame to compensate for the extra weight.
That nema cooling can't be very effective as there's no outlets for airflow. Fans always need very big channels to work even remotely well. Unless using very noisy radial fans.
I only had great results with these and made a huge difference for cooling. There are outlets at the bottom of these and push air across the surface and out the base…. Very effective!!
👌 Auf meinem Kanal dokumentiere ich gerade in einem Mehrteiler den Bau meiner MPCNC. Wenn Du Interesse hast, schau gern vorbei. Viele Grüße von Michael 👍
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These are great improvements. Thanks for sharing. Great information for me to consider as I’m building my MPCNC.
Thanks Mike!! Good luck with the build 👍
Great work, Myles. I'm about to build an MPCNC V1 and, like you, I would like to use a larger spindle. I already have a 2.kw water cooled spindle with a VFD. I'm planning to build a 2' square machine so would be very grateful for your detailed advice as to what changes I should be making to the Burly version (which I believe is sturdier than the original). Many thanks for your time and many thanks for sharing your enthusiasm.
Thanks for your message Jim. It’s a very exciting journey and so much to learn! I think you should be ok with a 2.2kw spindle on a 2’ machine... the 2.2kw spindle is VERY heavy and be sure to get ridged tubes, other wise you will certainly get a dip in your center of your cutting area. Since the video I have also inserted a flat steel bar into my center tubes to stop horizontal flex and works really well without sacrificing cable management. I would also suggest keeping the machine short on z axis (no more than 4inches) to assist vertical stability. Besides that, the great part of the build is that you can always adjust later! Good luck with the build 👍
@@NEWTechCreative That flat steel bar idea is brilliant! Are they a snug fit or are they fastened inside the pipe somehow? And they remain horizontal while using the machine i.e. they don't move around? And are they only installed on sliding carriage pipes? Sorry for all the questions.
Absolutly great ideas
I got the Primo Version but its not ready yet
Thanks for sharing your knowledge
Cool mods, and a great video. Thanks for sharing!
This video is awesome very professional quality thanks heaps
Thank you!
Interesting solutions, thanks.
Great mods. I might use some in my rebuild. Thanks heaps for sharing.
Not a problem!! Good luck and enjoy the build 😄👍
Hi there buddy... i love your setup..! Do you have any videos on how you setup grbl and softwares worh your lcd..? What is your lcd btw? Thanks mate
Hi Christopher. I must have missed your comment. I’m using a raspberry pi with a 7inch touch screen with the Pi OS and running universal gcode sender! I don’t have a video setup but read through the wiki and the should get you on the right track.
I know this is an older video, but FYI, IN SOLIDWORKS I COMPARED THE DEFLECTION OF 1" RAILS WITH DIFFERENT WALL THICKNESS AND SOLID. I FOUND THAT .25" WALL 1" DOM TUBE HAS 25% LESS DEFLECTION THAN A 1" SOLID RAIL. THE REASON FOR THIS IS THE 1" SOLID RAIL WEIGHS MORE CAUSING MORE SAG, THE 1/4" WALL DOM IS AVAIALBE FROM METAL SUPPLIES AND BALANCES THE MOST STRENGTH TO WEIGHT (STILL WEIGHING 2LBS PER FT SO VERY HEFTY) ENGINEERING SHOWS YOU GET MOST OF YOUR STRENGTH FROM YOUR OUTER DIAMETER AND WALL THICKNESS AND NOT THE CENTER CORE.
Thanks Miles very useful to know as im about to begin a build
Great Videos... Many thanks for sharing your designs with the community which is very much appreciated. As I am in the middle of a MPCNC build and still not sure about my size, may I ask you for your X, Y and Z working space? Many thanks in advance and kind regards from northern Germany. Robi
Thank you for your kind comments Robi. My working area is 900mm x 550mm and z200mm. I built this way at first as I didn’t know exactly what size I would use mostly. I think I would still drop my z height as I don’t need so high. The x & y axis have been perfect for fitting standard 900mm boards from hardware shop and no need to cut down. Good luck with the build 👍😁
This is great video! Very informative. Can you elaborate on the solid bar you used on the outer rim? I'm just starting my build and that seems like something I should do right out of the gate.
Thanks for your message @Jim F . Good to see you doing your research before starting. As I have the Burly version (Old version) is assume the setup is the same for the new one. I purchase solid 25mm bar from the local steel shop and had them cut to size. I only used solid bar for the out slider rails and hollow for the x and y bar so I could pass through cables and reduce overall weight. It made a huge difference with overall ‘sag’ and general movement in all directions when cutting. When purchasing hollow tubes, place pressure half way down and check for amount of flex… a little flex is ok. The thicker the wall of tube the better. Hope I’ve helped. Good luck with the journey 😁😁
@@NEWTechCreative Thanks for the advice
Surely the outer bars will only matter for Z axis rigidity - in each of the X and Y axis all of the load is on the middle bar and the two motors. Unless I'm missing something, the solid bars should be used for the middle bars?
Fantastic video and great modifications btw :)
Thanks for your comments Josh! Yes you are correct in saying that this is mainly for the z axis, however does assist also in the x and y to reduce what I call the bow and arrow effect when running at faster feed rates (bowing in the bar when pushing, then releasing when through material causing a ‘flick’ out). I could have used on the middle bars however I didn’t want to re-route all wires on the outside and consequently having cable chains around the entire perimeter.... if you chose to use all solid bar, I could imagine this would be a very sturdy machine!!!
Hi Myles, does the Koala vac work on the MPCNC Primo version?
Great question @Paul Bell . I’m really not sure sorry 😞 I haven’t built a primo to test out. I’m am doubtful, however I did see a similar one someone made for the primo… you might have to go on a hunt to find it! Hope your enjoying the CNC life!
Im a bit confused on the round stock. I just ordered about 25 feet of solid round stock for my cnc as I got the idea from your video. But I then listened closer and heard you said you kept some tubing so that you'd be Able to feed your wiring through? Would it not be possible to use solid stock all the way around? Thanks love the build!
Thanks @Paulie Jueckstock ! I have the solid bar around the outer perimeter and hollow tubes on the cross bar axis to pass wires through!
@@NEWTechCreative awesome what about the legs? And I'm trying to figure out if the "outside" rails are the gantry rails or the slides. Because I know its not both but I just don't know which it is. Thanks again for the feedback!
Yes @Paulie Jueckstock , The legs I used were also solid bar. The only hollow tubing I used was the “moving” tubes that cross through the centre gantry/spindle z axis.
This is great work!!! All of the mods were well thought out. I’d love to see a comparison of quality to show how much more accurate your machine is now...that would be the icing on the cake for others
Thanks for your feedback!! Much appreciated. I’ll see how I go this week and create a follow up video 👍
What is the router that you use please ?
Thanks a lot for the video
Thanks for your comment. I’m using a 1.5lw spindle with vfd from China! 😁
@@NEWTechCreative Thanks a lot... if you have some time can you please post a link ?
Thanks again
Unfortunately the link I purchased from is no longer available @Denis G. I would suggest finding your local online supplier and purchasing from them! Use the search ‘1.5kw air cooled spindle with vfd’. Thank you 😊
Hi ! I built a MPCNC Primo and I was looking for a vaccum shoe. Your is really intersting but doens'y fit my rail size (25mm) Koala Vac v2. I you have a step file of the top attachment or if anyone has already made one it's amazing
Thanks for your comment! The 25.4mm version will fit the 25mm as well, however this is not a product that I’ve had a chance to refine and needs some more adjustments to work effectively! You will need to make some type of gasket for the connection between the internal sliding piece! You are more then welcome to try out and provide feedback. Thank you 😁😁
Id like the 23.5mm as well. Thanks.
All updated now on my thingiverse page! Enjoy :)
Excellent job! Do you have a link for the numeric keypad?
Hi Myles, well done with this it's truly inspiring. GREAT BUILD!!! Because of this video I will also be attempting a MPCNC. I do have some experience with carbon fiber though and would like to hear your opinion on using carbon fiber rigid tubes in stead of mild steel or stainless.
Thank you for you kind words Deon! I’m please that it has inspired you. There is so much to learn through this project. I’m not that knowledgeable about carbon fiber tubing however I would check the product out in the shop if you can before hand. I tend to look down center hollow of tube with end touching floor then push in center of tube to see any variance in tubing. Good luck with the build and would love to hear how it goes.
@@NEWTechCreative Thanks, that is "solid" advise. Hahaha. I agree that it should be as rigid as possible. On another forum someone mentioned that the lighter the cross sections the more "outside interference" could react on it. (Basically the heavier the better for stability), I'm also interested in your electronic setup, since I'm also considering using an Arduino.
@@deonbotha1925I know this is an old comment and I don't know how far along you might be but for anyone 4lse that may come along and read this I thought I would add my experiences. I used EMT conduit for mine (north America) and I regret it. The galvanizing flakes off and the tubes flatten with wear because of the soft zinc galvenizing. Its not a huge deal but if I did it again I would use stainless tubes and get as thick and rigid as I could afford.
As for the electronics, I used a RAMPS board on a Mega2560 and nearly gave up because of code issues and lost stpes. Switched to an SKR board and life was worth living again. Spend the extra on a powerful 32bit board...
Nice upgrades but can you use it as a plasma cutter?
Absolutely! If you search TH-cam for ‘plasma MPCNC’ you can find plenty of users with a plasma cutter. 😄
Do you have a video on the bluetooth keypad?
Great upgrades! I bought some 40mm fans and I'm printing the fan housings atm. Do you also have the stl for the Z fan housing on top?
Hi, great mods - going to do them to my MPCNC. Could you give details of your electronics/grbl setup. Looks a bit non standard....have subscribed
Hi Gary! Fantastic. I have two spindle mounts on my Thingiverse... the newer one is more comparable with the koala vac if you end up using. Yes my grbl runs off an arduino uno and I use separate ST-M5045 stepper motor drivers for each axis... I designed this way as I wanted to upgrade to a larger machine one day and they can handle large amps if needed especially if working with nema23’s. I might do a video regarding some options when it comes to grbl setup. Enjoy and thanks for subscribing 👍
Cool ideas, do you have a 23.5mm (3/4" EMT) design for the corner brackets and the cable chain bracket thing. thx
Thank you. I’ll upload within a day!
@@NEWTechCreative great thanks, I am reprinting a couple parts, cracked a few while putting together and also the roller plate I had the hole was to small,
All files are now updated and included on my links. Good luck with the build 👌
Is there an updated Thingyverse Link? :O Says 404 :(
Thanks for you comment @FreshAnton. I have just transferred all files to my thangs profile. Search NewTechcreative on thangs to access my downloads! Thanks for reminding me 😊 I’ll change links shortly 👍
@@NEWTechCreative Downloaded and start printing (fast before work :D )
which spindle ara you using? how much does the spindle weigh? does Z axis with nema 17 have the necessary torque to move that?
I’m using a 1.5kw air cooled spindle and weighs around 2.8kgs. Yes the Nema17 never skipped a beat with this motor... I did have active cooling and set the amperage to 2Amps to get the most out of the motor. Hope that’s helped
@@NEWTechCreative thanks! :)
It's a really great video and your constructions and your upgrades are also really great. I actually have two questions. How did you attach the brushes on the coala vac. What kind of spindle did you use? Thank you and greetings from bavaria
Thank you for your kind words! I purchased the dust cover brush online and just cut to size and attached with a hot glue gun. You could also 3D print bristles with flexible filament if you have available. I purchased a 1.5kw aircooled spindle with VFD from eBay. Hope this answers your questions! Thank you
@@NEWTechCreative thank you for the tips! I wasn't or still am not sure if the 1,5 kw spindle is to heavy. I'm looking forward to your next videos.
Can you do a video on your Bluetooth control setup?
No problem! I should have this video available in the next week or so!
Awesome upgrades, thank you! Subscribed. Love your vac attachment and stepper fan housings. My motors run super hot. Are you running independent power lines for all of your extra fans? Are you connecting these to your mainboard or to a separate power supply? Any specific fan suggestions?
Thanks Ruben! Yes I connected the fans to a separate 24v power supply so the run as soon as I turn the CNC on. I’m sure that they can also be run off an output from your chosen board, however check your voltage of fans and what supply the need. You can purchase a 12v and 24v versions online to match what you need. You could always connect a relay or switching component in you would like control from your board with an external power supply. Glad these could help out!!
Hey nice mpcnc. The pipes are not pipes? Are this full metal?
Yes that is correct!
NEWTech Creative nice but but they bent same as stainless steel pipes :-)
Have you used stainless steel or aluminium full metal pipes?
Robert Pitschmann I have read and talk so much about stretched full Metal
Felicitaciones, gran trabajo
For 25.4 version
Thanks.
I have now updated all files to with your requested size! Enjoy :)
I have now updated all files to with your requested size! Enjoy :)
What spindle/VFD do you have?
Hi Adiv! I’m using a 1.5kw air cooled spindle with VFD. Works really well on the MPCNC, however I have gone to the effort of strengthening the frame to compensate for the extra weight.
What control board do you use
I’m using an arduino uno with individual st-m5045 motor drivers with plans to upgrade stepper motors at a later stage.
thanks best peace!
i dropped a sub in the first two seconds of your video because I can already see you invested in quality recording equipment. Keep it going
Thank you Hunter! 😁
That nema cooling can't be very effective as there's no outlets for airflow. Fans always need very big channels to work even remotely well. Unless using very noisy radial fans.
I only had great results with these and made a huge difference for cooling. There are outlets at the bottom of these and push air across the surface and out the base…. Very effective!!
@@NEWTechCreative ok, looks like it's virtually completely blocked design
wow, mine looks like a ungy duckling, but it works so thats ok
👌 Auf meinem Kanal dokumentiere ich gerade in einem Mehrteiler den Bau meiner MPCNC. Wenn Du Interesse hast, schau gern vorbei.
Viele Grüße von Michael 👍