You need to add piston ring clearance for turbo applications. There is calculation for added gap. Top ring, Bore size x .005" Bottom ring, bore x .0055" and min gap .015" on oil rings.
What is the deal in all these youtube comments with people and their "coffee"? Nobody gives a rats ass if you're drinking coffee! Really,why do you feel the need to mention coffee? Genuinely curious to your thought process
@@royhenson3379 wow great reply. Seeing how your mind works more every second. Guess you might actually think someone cares if you're drinking coffee🤣🤣🤣
Liking the build. I saw one other comment about changing it to a draw through system. Make ur life(and build) so much simpler by changing setup to a draw thru system. Mount carb on intake side of turbo. That way u wont issue of bent needle from boost slamming into it. U just tune it normally..(just a little richer) no fuel pump or regulator needed!! Do a little research on draw thru setups and u will see its cheaper and simpler. Good luck with build. I really want to see that 400 blowing by 450's!
My opinion, go with a big bore port and polish the head, big cam and racing pipe, you will get a lot of power. Not sure if a turbo is the way to go?? Idk 😄 great stuff tho, thanks for the videos.
I would do all of that with the turbo besides the bore bc of heat, but the higher the level of cam installed, the more overlap it will have which means lower compression ratio, & that will be safer for a turbo build, while also having more lift & more duration to make use of the boost.
@@mixxedboyybuilds8273 The big bore heat issue is more of a problem with water cooled engines. The bigger cylinder takes away space from the water jacket, leading to less cooling ability. This engine is air cooled so that doesn't apply to this one
@@kshepthedrummer I see what you're saying but that definitely does apply to these 400s as the oil cooling isn't really adequate for that big of a bore. You can easily make them unreliable by stepping up the bore size that far. I couldn't count on all my hands & toes how many times I've seen trashed 440 too ends on these machines.
Thanks for sharing your build here, don’t give up on it. I run a aeromotive A1000 fuel reg on my turbo 150cc single, look em up they work spot on for a carby. You can get away easy with a Chinese type fuel pump that makes 40 psi. To run the pump on my bike I have a dc to dc adjustable step down module that keep the pump running at 3 amps max with also helps keep fuel system pressure down. Get yourself a air/fuel gauge and 02 sensor, it would have been running lean when it was trying to boost past fuel pump pressure which looks like it killed it. I can’t remember from your other videos if your using a a pitot tube in the charge pipe or not , I’ll go back again and watch it. Good luck man. You’ll be stoked with it when it’s sorted.
Yeah I think the guys right about the carb. I just watched a guy on TH-cam that has a yamaha 700 raptor, turboed. That thing is amazing. No problems with it at all. He's exhaust is really short. Maybe 8 inches long and just comes out the side
Ring gap is very important as boost increases the rings expand, oil has to feed from top or it will pool and get sucked in through the o-ring seal into the intake side of the turbo, a wide band O2 sensor will let you know if you are leaning out your mixture. Good luck with your project
It's winter so in the summer the fan would absolutely be needed but at colder temperatures there really shouldn't be a fan needed. He should feed the turbo from the return line of the motor not the feed line, when you grab oil from the feed line before it gets in the motor you will starve the motor for oil that's why the crank got hot!!🔥
Was that fun! Now me n the mad scientist will have to change the piston rings you fried. Lol. This series is the best one yet with all the experimenting and learning. We all learning with you bro and it's amazing how quickly you're working this all out. She's gunna be a sic beast and you will be a pro. 😎👍
Forged piston, I would definitely upgrade to head studs, maybe a multi layer head gasket, in your previous videos you said something about back pressure, doesn’t apply to turbocharged vehicles what so ever because of the turbo. The faster you can get the air out of the engine on a turbocharged engine the better, I would also look into a wideband O2 sensor to monitor air fuel ratios, would definitely make tuning easier instead of plug chopping. You’re close man don’t give up yet
Couple of things. Maybe try a different style spark plug that you can change the gap on, make the gap lower incase it was blowing out the spark. Also I’d run a lot more oil in the system. Probably wouldn’t hurt if it’s overfilled. After you clock the turbo correctly putting a small muffler on it might help with back pressure too.
Overfilling oil does hurt. The crank ends up sloshing the oil around causing it to airate it(foams up). And that no longer lubricates properly 100% will kill a motor.
Nice job on the build man! you have to larger ring gap when adding power boosters like turbo - the extra heat causes the rings to expand more than normal and weld themselves into the piston or causes the piston to crack or lift off.
That's what happens to an engine run lean gets to hot and that's the results. That bent needle is prob a big part of it lol. Cud have been worse. Keep it going man u will get it ur doing good. Ur learning. Good luck
Hey brother I totally dig what your doing and I'd personally like to see this happen! I knew you were going to have issues with the engine at some point and the head studs were your weakest link. If you would like some help with your build, I specialize in the 400ex engine. I can help you with your head stud installation and any other machine work you may need with this project.
I don't know if you tried this bot convert the carb to blow through just cover the air fuel hole on the inlit of the carb with rtv. Love the vids by the way
I worked with blowers on the drag strips with high buck engines....usually Mopar hemis and BBC. One thing you NEVER DO is let and engine go lean as it leads to a one-piece motor and various pieces you can use for ash trays...I don't smoke. Much better to "sneak up" on the tune. I didn't see if the kit you used had some sort of a waste gate...that would be nice to keep cylinder pressures where you need them. The blued crank is not to be trusted, either.
to stop it from over heating i recommend a oversized oil tank they are like $300 and they help keep the 400ex cooler with cooling the oil done alot more than just the oil ooler
Hey man , 1st i want to say i love what you do here and all the content and i'm sure i'll be the only one to say this but put it back to stock and enjoy it. it's a mint 400
Once you have the turbo core in the right position I'd put a restrictor in the turbo oil feed line because it seems to me it's not getting full oil pressure . My xr600 had the same looking failer and was due to the oil pump its self was worn out
Go power sports sells a self learning fuel injection throttle body that slip in right where carb would be and I think that would save you so much headache on trying to make the blow through set up work
You need a blowoff valve between the turbo and the carb or you will continue to bend the needle. When you close the throttle all of the boost slams into the slide and those parts cannot handle that pressure. Keep working you will get it.
Hey dude. This video's content was awesome! I've never hooked up a turbocharger on anything so I really find this shit more interesting than a mofo! Keep up the good work and please keep explaining things as there's a great many of us learning a lot from your videos. Thank you sir!!
If I were you, I'd see about a new piston & rings, especially if the rings were stuck in the grooves like that. Cheap insurance and your bore should hone out just fine. You may want to use just a touch of blue Loctite on the needle retainer screws.
Maybe worth investigating if im not wrong most turbos had slightly reduced compression so turbo has space to work ? and being a single cylinder they will have quite high compression ? Wonder if any one has doubled base gasket ? and is that enough? id guess cam is the right way to do it ,not as high lift ? I LOVE THEM ENGINES TOO ,my favourite old bike was an xr400 and it was bullet proof nigh on . Hope you get it sussed it would be good to see it boost better .
Hey Joe, love your videos! I just bought a 2006 raptor 350 with a blown starter clutch, Just wondering, what you would recommend and if you've done 1 of these. Keep up the great videos!! Thanks
Hey man, i've noticed that you have a random spark coming from under the tube of the compression reader in the chassis.. you can see the sparking @9:20! Btw keep up the good work man!
Looks like it's a bad spark plug cap I had to look really close cuz I was watching it on my phone but the spark plug cap is sitting right there next to the frame so two things could be happening it could have such strong spark that it's just jumping from the end of the cat out but it looks like it might have a crack in it because the spark is coming from up further where it shouldn't be
You can clock the hot and cold sides of the turbo to get the oil in/out and piping to your liking. Check the ring gap before you toss a bunch of boost at it. It’s likely to tight and why the rings got seized. A rough estimate would be around 16 to 20 thou on the top and 18 to 22 thou on the middle. Oil rings need more if they got hot enough to seize up like that. Like I said “rough estimate” here. I didn’t look up the specs of the 400EX bore.
You do alot of 4 wheelers on the channel would love to see more bike content . Your good at what you do . I'm from the UK and currently own a KTM 200 exc 2004
I have that same go-cart welded a 1985 185 suzuki three wheeler to the back of it made a shifter cart out of it ,next I want to add a fourwheeler front end to it
@@morganvincent687 I'm just doing mine for some thing to beat around the property, I have a 700 king quad and a Honda 300 two wheel drive I am rebuilding the 300
I really think the engine got starved for oil because you got the oil from main oil line! You should make the turbo oil have its own oil tank and pump. Plus you know what running lean does. It's gets everything very hot!!
Detonation is this engine’s BIGGEST enemy…along with heat…. I buildt literally hundreds of these 400ex motors for woods. Mx, dunes you name it. Not on expert on turbocharging, but I do know my way around a 400ex. Head studs: if you haven’t, upgrade to 12mm studs-imperative. There are only four studs… 250X/300EX have SIX…I’ve ran those little guys to 15:1 compression and they love it…400’s don’t like a lot of timing, but the better you build it, the more timing you can feed it. Crank/rod… the stock rod will not tolerate a lot of boost…. Invest in a good aftermarket crank with an H-beam rod. Timing chain-run a 2000 CRF450 bike camchain. Much heavier and not prone to stretching. I know these mods aren’t cheap… but neither is a rod popping through the front of the cases. Good luck I’ll be following!
Also that fuel jet you added looks like it's on the float bowl over flow port. That means it only gets fuel if the fuel level is above that long tube in the bowl.
Might need a oversized rad turbos make your engine run a bit hotter, or just ride it faster lol my yz 250 overheats in the summer if I’m not going fast enough, judging by piston wash your jetting is ok main may be tad bit lean so shouldn’t have been a lean problem
You gotta make sure the carb screws are in there tight because my 2020 apollo sniper sport 125cc atv carb chock screw went loose and went inside the cylinder bent the valve and scratch they cylinder and have a small dent on the pistin and I have to buy a new valve and cylinder and pistin so about $130+ for a new one so make sure your carb screws are on there tight
Run your oil feed for the turbo off a seperate tank and cooler. I’m assuming the oil got to hot from the turbo and it wasn’t able to keep the motor cool, if the bike was liquid cooled I don’t think this issue would of happened
I recommend you update your oil system if you are going to continue using this turbo setup as for the pressed air from the turbo is drying out the cylinder from oil i would fatten up your oil system so it can flow the oil faster and better
the top of the Piston looks like there was detonation which to help it wont prevent it but if you run high test gas i dont know if you have 91 or 93 around you but the higher test gas you run for turbo applications the better
My 400ex had the same thing happen to the carburetor where the two screws fell off the piston the needle is in, the qaud wouldn’t rev out at all past 1/2 thottle so that could have been the problem with the qaud running bad the hole time
Yeah mine barely ran because when the carburetor would normally pull the needle up when you give it throttle it didn’t so it couldn’t get enough fuel, have you seen the grind hard plumbing co videos of them super charging there barby jeep, they ended up using a car carburetor from I think a Volkswagen and it fixed all there problems with fueling
It’s definitely detonating under boost, higher octane fuel is needed hotter intake air temp + air coooled + increased cylinder pressure all equals more heat, making it way more prone to detonation, prob why the top ring was a little sticky
Efi swap is key to make the turbo work carb will not work and buying a blow through carb would be crazy expensive and I dont even think they make them for small engines so it's either efi swap or get rid of the turbo
For rings to stick in such a short time, does that mean the piston lands closed up under boost or heat ? Presume you can measure to check before re-using the piston.
You need to add piston ring clearance for turbo applications. There is calculation for added gap. Top ring, Bore size x .005"
Bottom ring, bore x .0055" and min gap .015" on oil rings.
this is what i was talking about in the first vid.. I had same issue when i did mine...and same results cut them rings
He needs a forged piston
+1
haha i was just going to say that!
@@MrATOMBOMB420 on a motor that can’t produce any more than 5-7 psi?? Proper fueling is all this thing needs
I love having my coffee in the morning watching a 2vintage video. New videos dropping every other day.. Killing It Joe.. Good Job.
Thanks for watching!
What is the deal in all these youtube comments with people and their "coffee"? Nobody gives a rats ass if you're drinking coffee! Really,why do you feel the need to mention coffee? Genuinely curious to your thought process
@@Mizman76 Just worry about yourself bud.
@@royhenson3379 wow great reply. Seeing how your mind works more every second. Guess you might actually think someone cares if you're drinking coffee🤣🤣🤣
Liking the build. I saw one other comment about changing it to a draw through system. Make ur life(and build) so much simpler by changing setup to a draw thru system. Mount carb on intake side of turbo. That way u wont issue of bent needle from boost slamming into it. U just tune it normally..(just a little richer) no fuel pump or regulator needed!! Do a little research on draw thru setups and u will see its cheaper and simpler. Good luck with build. I really want to see that 400 blowing by 450's!
My opinion, go with a big bore port and polish the head, big cam and racing pipe, you will get a lot of power. Not sure if a turbo is the way to go?? Idk 😄 great stuff tho, thanks for the videos.
I would do all of that with the turbo besides the bore bc of heat, but the higher the level of cam installed, the more overlap it will have which means lower compression ratio, & that will be safer for a turbo build, while also having more lift & more duration to make use of the boost.
@@mixxedboyybuilds8273 The big bore heat issue is more of a problem with water cooled engines. The bigger cylinder takes away space from the water jacket, leading to less cooling ability. This engine is air cooled so that doesn't apply to this one
@@kshepthedrummer I see what you're saying but that definitely does apply to these 400s as the oil cooling isn't really adequate for that big of a bore. You can easily make them unreliable by stepping up the bore size that far. I couldn't count on all my hands & toes how many times I've seen trashed 440 too ends on these machines.
Big bores kill 400ex's along with high compression, they blow head gaskets very easy with high compression. Keep them stock and they run forever!
Don't give up on it I love this series it's my favorite project you've done !!
Thanks for sharing your build here, don’t give up on it.
I run a aeromotive A1000 fuel reg on my turbo 150cc single, look em up they work spot on for a carby.
You can get away easy with a Chinese type fuel pump that makes 40 psi.
To run the pump on my bike I have a dc to dc adjustable step down module that keep the pump running at 3 amps max with also helps keep fuel system pressure down.
Get yourself a air/fuel gauge and 02 sensor, it would have been running lean when it was trying to boost past fuel pump pressure which looks like it killed it.
I can’t remember from your other videos if your using a a pitot tube in the charge pipe or not , I’ll go back again and watch it.
Good luck man. You’ll be stoked with it when it’s sorted.
Yeah I think the guys right about the carb. I just watched a guy on TH-cam that has a yamaha 700 raptor, turboed. That thing is amazing. No problems with it at all. He's exhaust is really short. Maybe 8 inches long and just comes out the side
For starters Joe, about 5-7psi is all you should be running on a stock engine. You also should be running at least 93 octane fuel.
And a forged piston
@@MrATOMBOMB420 yeah I was also going to mention a forged piston is definitely needed
Winter riding is a blast! If we ever start getting more snow here in Ohio I would.
I dreamed of having a turbo on my 400 ex years ago and you pulled it off and as well as a new sub awesome 👌 job
Ring gap is very important as boost increases the rings expand, oil has to feed from top or it will pool and get sucked in through the o-ring seal into the intake side of the turbo, a wide band O2 sensor will let you know if you are leaning out your mixture.
Good luck with your project
YOU WORK ON IT THATS WHAT WENT WRONG!
I agree with a fan on the oil cooler to cool the temps down because an Air cooled / oil cooled engine + boost = melt30
It's winter so in the summer the fan would absolutely be needed but at colder temperatures there really shouldn't be a fan needed. He should feed the turbo from the return line of the motor not the feed line, when you grab oil from the feed line before it gets in the motor you will starve the motor for oil that's why the crank got hot!!🔥
I agree and I would add a external oil pump
You are doing a hell of a job though it's exciting to see someone breath new life into an iconic quad!!
nice vid, when u were trying to start it 9:25 i just saw a spark in the background, so it’s just sparking everywhere. 😁
Was that fun! Now me n the mad scientist will have to change the piston rings you fried. Lol. This series is the best one yet with all the experimenting and learning. We all learning with you bro and it's amazing how quickly you're working this all out. She's gunna be a sic beast and you will be a pro. 😎👍
Forged piston, I would definitely upgrade to head studs, maybe a multi layer head gasket, in your previous videos you said something about back pressure, doesn’t apply to turbocharged vehicles what so ever because of the turbo. The faster you can get the air out of the engine on a turbocharged engine the better, I would also look into a wideband O2 sensor to monitor air fuel ratios, would definitely make tuning easier instead of plug chopping. You’re close man don’t give up yet
Wiseco racer elite piston kit!
Just got off work and what do ya know another banger vid keep ‘em flowing 🙏
Get a lectron carb! Or a smart carb. Maybe one of those will work better. 🤔 great video! I am excited for the next video on this quad!
Couple of things. Maybe try a different style spark plug that you can change the gap on, make the gap lower incase it was blowing out the spark. Also I’d run a lot more oil in the system. Probably wouldn’t hurt if it’s overfilled. After you clock the turbo correctly putting a small muffler on it might help with back pressure too.
Overfilling oil does hurt. The crank ends up sloshing the oil around causing it to airate it(foams up). And that no longer lubricates properly 100% will kill a motor.
LOVE this content! That fuel pump and regulator will make all the difference once you get that sorted out.
Yeah im hoping so!
Nice job on the build man! you have to larger ring gap when adding power boosters like turbo - the extra heat causes the rings to expand more than normal and weld themselves into the piston or causes the piston to crack or lift off.
That's what happens to an engine run lean gets to hot and that's the results. That bent needle is prob a big part of it lol. Cud have been worse. Keep it going man u will get it ur doing good. Ur learning. Good luck
Fax bro I’m usually never one of the first but was posted at the perfect times, live yee videos bro been watching forever 💯💯
Fucking thing is sick , i wanna see a turbo charged quadzilla
like a 2t with a turbo? 😂
Good info, to keep an eye on this rig you should grab an aem o2 wideband
Hey brother I totally dig what your doing and I'd personally like to see this happen! I knew you were going to have issues with the engine at some point and the head studs were your weakest link. If you would like some help with your build, I specialize in the 400ex engine. I can help you with your head stud installation and any other machine work you may need with this project.
Porting the head is almost pointless on a turbo engine just Crank the boost up
You'll get it going. Just some improvements. It's not as easy as plumbing a turbo in like everyone thinks!! Great job!
also a bigger oil cooler and fan will definitely prolong the piston, rings and bearings
Got it rolling another day !!
PULL UP YOUR DRESS AND GET A PAIR!!
love this series keep up the good work
Put an oil cooler on it with a fan like I did mine and the oil stays cool and thin
I don't know if you tried this bot convert the carb to blow through just cover the air fuel hole on the inlit of the carb with rtv. Love the vids by the way
I worked with blowers on the drag strips with high buck engines....usually Mopar hemis and BBC. One thing you NEVER DO is let and engine go lean as it leads to a one-piece motor and various pieces you can use for ash trays...I don't smoke. Much better to "sneak up" on the tune. I didn't see if the kit you used had some sort of a waste gate...that would be nice to keep cylinder pressures where you need them. The blued crank is not to be trusted, either.
to stop it from over heating i recommend a oversized oil tank they are like $300 and they help keep the 400ex cooler with cooling the oil done alot more than just the oil ooler
There’s a few sparks like on fan said at 9:20 look close right behind the tube. Definitely ground issues
Hey man , 1st i want to say i love what you do here and all the content and i'm sure i'll be the only one to say this but put it back to stock and enjoy it. it's a mint 400
Once you have the turbo core in the right position I'd put a restrictor in the turbo oil feed line because it seems to me it's not getting full oil pressure . My xr600 had the same looking failer and was due to the oil pump its self was worn out
I figured he lost some oil pressure from adding another line.
Go power sports sells a self learning fuel injection throttle body that slip in right where carb would be and I think that would save you so much headache on trying to make the blow through set up work
You should also tighten to Gao on the spark plug boost will blownout the spark if gap is to high. Most car engine that run booat do .25
make sure you get a boost reference regulator
Yep I have one oreded up
Yes another Sunday video!
Trial and error my friend keep up the good work and keep posting the videos bro
You need a blowoff valve between the turbo and the carb or you will continue to bend the needle. When you close the throttle all of the boost slams into the slide and those parts cannot handle that pressure. Keep working you will get it.
cool that air down with an intercooler. that will bring down temps in the combustion chamber
I remember when this channel had 15k
Awesome quad! Love the rims
Don't go over 5 pounds of boost any higher for that size motor
See that go kart in the back !! What do you have in store !!
Keep up the work love your video
I'm actually learning something from you good work
Hey dude. This video's content was awesome! I've never hooked up a turbocharger on anything so I really find this shit more interesting than a mofo! Keep up the good work and please keep explaining things as there's a great many of us learning a lot from your videos. Thank you sir!!
If I were you, I'd see about a new piston & rings, especially if the rings were stuck in the grooves like that. Cheap insurance and your bore should hone out just fine.
You may want to use just a touch of blue Loctite on the needle retainer screws.
Hey man watch that crank just as a FYI it took over 575 degrees to be able to get that blue color so think about that
Hell yeah, don't think I've been this early to any of your vids
Ring gap should be larger than normal when adding boost
you need to put the carb on the air intake of the turbo, otherwise your going to have constant fuel/lean issues when it makes boost.
Maybe worth investigating if im not wrong most turbos had slightly reduced compression so turbo has space to work ? and being a single cylinder they will have quite high compression ? Wonder if any one has doubled base gasket ? and is that enough? id guess cam is the right way to do it ,not as high lift ? I LOVE THEM ENGINES TOO ,my favourite old bike was an xr400 and it was bullet proof nigh on . Hope you get it sussed it would be good to see it boost better .
Hey Joe, love your videos! I just bought a 2006 raptor 350 with a blown starter clutch, Just wondering, what you would recommend and if you've done 1 of these. Keep up the great videos!! Thanks
Coffee and 2vintage is awesome
Hey man, i've noticed that you have a random spark coming from under the tube of the compression reader in the chassis.. you can see the sparking @9:20! Btw keep up the good work man!
Looks like it's a bad spark plug cap I had to look really close cuz I was watching it on my phone but the spark plug cap is sitting right there next to the frame so two things could be happening it could have such strong spark that it's just jumping from the end of the cat out but it looks like it might have a crack in it because the spark is coming from up further where it shouldn't be
You can clock the hot and cold sides of the turbo to get the oil in/out and piping to your liking.
Check the ring gap before you toss a bunch of boost at it. It’s likely to tight and why the rings got seized. A rough estimate would be around 16 to 20 thou on the top and 18 to 22 thou on the middle. Oil rings need more if they got hot enough to seize up like that.
Like I said “rough estimate” here. I didn’t look up the specs of the 400EX bore.
Just my opinion but I would throw that ebay turbo in the trash and rebuild the four wheeler and have a nice 400ex to ride.
Put it back to standard 👍 , keep up the good work , can we see more bike vids
Almost bought a bike the other day but guy sold it on me
You do alot of 4 wheelers on the channel would love to see more bike content . Your good at what you do . I'm from the UK and currently own a KTM 200 exc 2004
I have that same go-cart welded a 1985 185 suzuki three wheeler to the back of it made a shifter cart out of it ,next I want to add a fourwheeler front end to it
@Mark Deaton thier was a go cart in the back ground ,I have the same one
@ronaldrecord that frames has a bigger motor
@@morganvincent687 I'm just doing mine for some thing to beat around the property, I have a 700 king quad and a Honda 300 two wheel drive I am rebuilding the 300
@Ronald record that sounds like fun
I really think the engine got starved for oil because you got the oil from main oil line! You should make the turbo oil have its own oil tank and pump. Plus you know what running lean does. It's gets everything very hot!!
When he started his turbo project since day I've been saying to file the rings for gap clearance but I guess he never read my comments...
my favorite channel
Detonation is this engine’s BIGGEST enemy…along with heat…. I buildt literally hundreds of these 400ex motors for woods. Mx, dunes you name it. Not on expert on turbocharging, but I do know my way around a 400ex. Head studs: if you haven’t, upgrade to 12mm studs-imperative. There are only four studs… 250X/300EX have SIX…I’ve ran those little guys to 15:1 compression and they love it…400’s don’t like a lot of timing, but the better you build it, the more timing you can feed it. Crank/rod… the stock rod will not tolerate a lot of boost…. Invest in a good aftermarket crank with an H-beam rod. Timing chain-run a 2000 CRF450 bike camchain. Much heavier and not prone to stretching. I know these mods aren’t cheap… but neither is a rod popping through the front of the cases. Good luck I’ll be following!
Also that fuel jet you added looks like it's on the float bowl over flow port. That means it only gets fuel if the fuel level is above that long tube in the bowl.
Might need a oversized rad turbos make your engine run a bit hotter, or just ride it faster lol my yz 250 overheats in the summer if I’m not going fast enough, judging by piston wash your jetting is ok main may be tad bit lean so shouldn’t have been a lean problem
This thing would be sweet with a lectron carb on it
I’m handicapped and used to ride I love everything about motorcycles
I think the extra boost was pushing on the slide and needle hard enough to bend it
You gotta make sure the carb screws are in there tight because my 2020 apollo sniper sport 125cc atv carb chock screw went loose and went inside the cylinder bent the valve and scratch they cylinder and have a small dent on the pistin and I have to buy a new valve and cylinder and pistin so about $130+ for a new one so make sure your carb screws are on there tight
But I ended up buying a brand new 125cc lifan motor fir $600
Run your oil feed for the turbo off a seperate tank and cooler. I’m assuming the oil got to hot from the turbo and it wasn’t able to keep the motor cool, if the bike was liquid cooled I don’t think this issue would of happened
I recommend you update your oil system if you are going to continue using this turbo setup as for the pressed air from the turbo is drying out the cylinder from oil i would fatten up your oil system so it can flow the oil faster and better
You're basically creating a jet engine inside of that cylinder is getting super hot you need an intercooler!!
the top of the Piston looks like there was detonation which to help it wont prevent it but if you run high test gas i dont know if you have 91 or 93 around you but the higher test gas you run for turbo applications the better
My 400ex had the same thing happen to the carburetor where the two screws fell off the piston the needle is in, the qaud wouldn’t rev out at all past 1/2 thottle so that could have been the problem with the qaud running bad the hole time
Yeah im not sure when it happened but it probably was part of the reason it ran poorly.
Yeah mine barely ran because when the carburetor would normally pull the needle up when you give it throttle it didn’t so it couldn’t get enough fuel, have you seen the grind hard plumbing co videos of them super charging there barby jeep, they ended up using a car carburetor from I think a Volkswagen and it fixed all there problems with fueling
You also need a little more fuel pressure than boost pressure
boost the carb vents or put carb in a pressurized box
Was waiting for this video
Another great video, sir! I really enjoy watching these tear downs and rebuilds.
It’s definitely detonating under boost, higher octane fuel is needed hotter intake air temp + air coooled + increased cylinder pressure all equals more heat, making it way more prone to detonation, prob why the top ring was a little sticky
Do you still have the 400ex with the 440 kit? You should race them
Get a double-sided sharp tail hex socket wrench. Comes in real handy for loosening tight bolts
main jet needs to be way bigger need a boost reference regulator and a pump with pressure higher than boost
Great video man
do a raptor or yfz 450or 700 and do everything slowling and right
Efi swap is key to make the turbo work carb will not work and buying a blow through carb would be crazy expensive and I dont even think they make them for small engines so it's either efi swap or get rid of the turbo
Link for that compression tester please, I cannot find it anywhere!
Do your research about right gaps with a turbo engine and you should able to modify those rings so that they run properly with the turbo....
Sounds like the battery is a little low mine doesn't like to start if the juice
is low.
I love it 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻. Great idea
I don't know much about turbos but maybe it ran to lean because the turbo was supplying more air and there wasn't enough fuel intake.
My guess is under boost it lifted the head n blew the head gasket
Do you know why my ltz400 idles high when warm but idles perfect when cold
For rings to stick in such a short time, does that mean the piston lands closed up under boost or heat ? Presume you can measure to check before re-using the piston.