very helpful, thank you! My driver board is wpc95, but a revision where they replaced the bridges with 20 diodes. Im about to recap the whole thing for the long term, and this gave me a little peace of mind.
Question on the repair to the eyelets: you just sand away the green mask to expose copper trace? What grade sanding paper? and then use a narrow gauge wire to stitch the original hole? And finally, what do you solder the legs of the new cap to if there is no longer an eyelet? thankyou
I use a fiberglass pen to strip the solder mask. Found these things years ago and just love them. www.amazon.com/Prep-Pen-FBA_Prep-pen-Adjustable/dp/B000J18RT6. If you clean the mask on both sides and connect with a small gauge wire you can easily flow the solder around it and onto the trace.
What about a hot air station for removing them. That way you don't have to worry about sucking the solder off the pins. The only question I would have is, what temperature is acceptable on that board since it's 20 years old. I work with new boards (in game consoles) that are mostly copper so I can go up to 425C for short periods.
Great video, thank you.. I have connectors for 115 and 120 with burn and some repair in the past. Id like to sort them. I guess I should replace the 8 caps at the same time regardless, as I don't know of they are good. They don't "puffy" but I guess who knows!
"Puffy" is not always a good indicator. Assuming they are all original, I think if you check the value of the 15,000uf you will most likely find they are 50% or more out of value.
@@tipsfromthetechbench4589 I would need to test them out of the circuit? I think I will bow to your far far superior experi nice and do the lot. Do the bridges too?
@@robllewellyn Usually bridges are either good or bad but they can break down with load or heat. I've gotten to a point that I just replace them as part of the rebuild process. Most cap testers will give a more accurate reading out of circuit. I use the Sencore LC-102 however the next model up, the LC-103 professes to be accurate for in circuit testing.
very helpful, thank you!
My driver board is wpc95, but a revision where they replaced the bridges with 20 diodes. Im about to recap the whole thing for the long term, and this gave me a little peace of mind.
Great! - and nice demo at the end - much appreciated!
Good Job! I can`t believe your using that old soldering iron....I know they are good for larger pads etc but wow are they awkward.
Can you tell me if c6 connects to something on both sides of board ?
Question on the repair to the eyelets: you just sand away the green mask to expose copper trace? What grade sanding paper? and then use a narrow gauge wire to stitch the original hole? And finally, what do you solder the legs of the new cap to if there is no longer an eyelet? thankyou
I use a fiberglass pen to strip the solder mask. Found these things years ago and just love them. www.amazon.com/Prep-Pen-FBA_Prep-pen-Adjustable/dp/B000J18RT6. If you clean the mask on both sides and connect with a small gauge wire you can easily flow the solder around it and onto the trace.
@@tipsfromthetechbench4589 Great video. And thanks for the link!
What about a hot air station for removing them. That way you don't have to worry about sucking the solder off the pins. The only question I would have is, what temperature is acceptable on that board since it's 20 years old. I work with new boards (in game consoles) that are mostly copper so I can go up to 425C for short periods.
Thank you for this video! Very helpful.
thank you very much for this vid!
Excellent!
Excellent
Great video, thank you.. I have connectors for 115 and 120 with burn and some repair in the past. Id like to sort them. I guess I should replace the 8 caps at the same time regardless, as I don't know of they are good. They don't "puffy" but I guess who knows!
"Puffy" is not always a good indicator. Assuming they are all original, I think if you check the value of the 15,000uf you will most likely find they are 50% or more out of value.
@@tipsfromthetechbench4589 I would need to test them out of the circuit? I think I will bow to your far far superior experi nice and do the lot. Do the bridges too?
@@robllewellyn Usually bridges are either good or bad but they can break down with load or heat. I've gotten to a point that I just replace them as part of the rebuild process.
Most cap testers will give a more accurate reading out of circuit. I use the Sencore LC-102 however the next model up, the LC-103 professes to be accurate for in circuit testing.
@@tipsfromthetechbench4589 I have a Fluke 114 for testing so I don't have a huge amount of advanced kit. But have a solder sucker and some chip quik!