Minus the lack of parts availability you really can’t fault dji for not making these easier to disassemble as they fight to pack so much in such a light package.
@@Matanumimaybe because they put so much more inside the drone. Along with heavier parts from the upgrade from mini 2 to mini 3. Every sensor that gets added adds weight
I repaired my own broken DJI drone and posted it on my TH-cam but nobody watches them. That is why, i will just go back to my Solar Power training videos then. Thanks Mate for your great video.
Nah man keep making videos, I may need to use your gimbal gimbal tutorial one day. It’s the algorithm. This stuff isn’t popular with most people, but companies that do this stuff can pay for advertising.
Late to the party but you missed one of the best parts, the S1 “Sparrow” chip. It’s a custom ARM Cortex M that handles the 2.4/5Ghz radio chip, specifically the SDR for Occusync. Its firmware is in /etc/sparrow-firmware on a squashfs in the 0100 module. Encrypted of course.
Anyone know if you could remove the lens and replace it - there are some oem lens available now. In know it is heated unlike the pro version, but is it possible to just remove it and glue a new one?
I was looking for a teardown video in order to find out if maybe i can hide an Airtag somewhere in the drone. What do you think, is it possible? Would make finding the drone in case of a crash or maybe even theft much easier! I already have an Airtag hidden in the drone bag, but i think a second one in the drone itself would be a good idea (even if it means it is technically over 250g afterwards).
You did an amazing job at NOT SHOWING the rear arms being removed as they’re completely different than the front 🤦🏻♂️😤 ifixit usually does a much more detailed video, specially on something the host even admits is more challenging than a typical repair. So that being said, does anyone have any tips as to removing the rear arms that appear to just have a pin thru them??
Thank You. Today my Mini 3 run RTH on 21% battery during i stering to land on my hand... I dons see 9s countdown and no any audio alarm. Just run on full throttle up. And crash on wall and 2 front arms broken like dry ice cream wafer XD Ofc all 8 preopllers too destroyed. Gimbal survived :D Relly so crap durability. Especially mounting fron arm on 1mm tiny very crunchy plastic washer. I think some glue and carbon insert in arm can easy repair. But i have DJI 2 y care and maybe i send for replace.
Too bad they are so difficult to repair. I am seriously thinking of just buying a cheap $100 brushless for fun then building a good cine-drone for photography…
Its Nifty and such but I dont understand why they cant do this in a more Hobby friendly way. YOu can have these for the people who are ot Hobby people who enjoy repair and soldering or modifications.. It would be nice to see one of these on a more open style frame similar to a FPV freestyle frame. Something we can swap motors and such out on to play with. Something we can swap the Air 03 unit in and out of ect... They could definitely do one in a more Hobby Centric way and bring a ton mroe money in as well as prop up a struggling (but inevitable to eventually explode in a good way) industry.
Mini 3 has longer flight time than the mini 3 and 4 pro has the same camera flys better range about 3 miles doesnt over heat like te 3 and 4 pro which causes the drone to land as far as the sensors dont work at night flights or seeing wires cost is cheaper
I think tech youtubers, and especially you, should be more rigorous in criticizing companies that don't supply spare parts. At the moment everyone's reaction is very passive, very "oh, too bad". It is of absolutely no use for a device to be easy to open, easy to remove a part, easy to disconnect something, if in the end you have nothing to put in its place.
Your video was informative, but offers little to no technique to actually remove panels and disassemble, there was a split second shot of you using a spudger to free the one board, that’s what I’m looking for video of.
Are there alternatives that can take comparable footage and send live footage back to goggles or a controller/screen with comparable quality? I don’t like the price but I find their video transmission hardware so tough to beat. Building something custom that’s comparable has, at least in my research, seemed like it would cost far more due to the lack of integration.
@@steve-adams All DJI builds are streamlined copies of builds other people have made. The one advancement they had was the digital FPV protocol, but now there are several cheap digital VTX modules that do the same, and without the compatibility issues DJI built into their hardware. You can build a high end arducopter based drone for about $300 and it not only will have longer flight time than the DJI, but a lot more lifting power as well. Personally I don't like gimbals because I like seeing the FOV move when the drone moves to get an idea on my latency but there are many designs for that as well. DJI is for the guy who doesn't want to learn anything about drones and just wants to fly a few times before shelving it. It's a necessary market especially for commercial applications like inspection, but most people will be better off building their own.
@@DaveSmith-cp5kj Which VTX systems should I look into? I built a drone since I left that comment, but haven't gone a far as the VTX aspect. It's really just waiting on that, and I haven't had the time to follow through on research. Some tips would be appreciated!
@@steve-adams Caddex Walksnail is currently the best. You can get it for sub $100, although I would get the HD Pro kit for $150 as the camera has a much better night vision than DJI (not sure about the newest models though, my Mavic is about 4 years old). The transmitter is basically a copy of DJI exactly as the company is from former DJI employees. Personally what I would suggest though is to use an analog camera and mount a nicer camera on that. The reason is that analog gets about 3x more range than digital options. All the long range digital videos you see like with DJI are with line of sight, such as launching from a hilltop or across a flat surface like a desert or over a forest. Most applications you won't have LOS so digital usually only gives you a few hundred yards before the image suddenly drops. This benefit of analog is why you don't need the collision avoidance (although arducopter can have that added) because you shouldn't ever be left headless with analog like you will with digital. In both analog and digital your range will be reduced based on your connections. Electrical noise can cause both systems to have feedback during flight maneuvers that can be corrected in various ways, check youtube vids and forum posts about this. Usually the main fix is the use of a capacitor. Also for the battery you are going to want to use 21700 cells as this is far more efficient than 18650 that used to be used. Also don't buy a frame, 3D print them. FDM ender 3 Printers are so cheap they are basically the same price as a frame. Being able to print a frame means you can easily make big and small frames and tailor the flight characteristics to exactly what you want. There really isn't any engineering that goes into frame design, so you can also make your own from scratch. If you have never done CAD I would suggest designspark. It's probably the fastest program out there because it is a click and drag modeling system vs a coordinate style system. Although it is not as powerful as say Fusion360, but unless you are making auto engines you shouldn't hit any barriers.
Minus the lack of parts availability you really can’t fault dji for not making these easier to disassemble as they fight to pack so much in such a light package.
Much harder to fix then mini 2
@@Matanumimaybe because they put so much more inside the drone. Along with heavier parts from the upgrade from mini 2 to mini 3. Every sensor that gets added adds weight
Parts are plenty go to cloud city is all
Congrats on 1 million subs!!
I repaired my own broken DJI drone and posted it on my TH-cam but nobody watches them. That is why, i will just go back to my Solar Power training videos then. Thanks Mate for your great video.
Nah man keep making videos, I may need to use your gimbal gimbal tutorial one day. It’s the algorithm. This stuff isn’t popular with most people, but companies that do this stuff can pay for advertising.
Late to the party but you missed one of the best parts, the S1 “Sparrow” chip. It’s a custom ARM Cortex M that handles the 2.4/5Ghz radio chip, specifically the SDR for Occusync. Its firmware is in /etc/sparrow-firmware on a squashfs in the 0100 module. Encrypted of course.
What is the size of the fuselage screws?
How do you remove the top cover so easily?
same resolution camera now
This video is so relaxing
there's also a GPS antenna on the squishy board?
What size is the screwdriver for the top cover? Thanks
i wonder the same thing?
Haha! Loved seeing the cameo shots of SLO!
Thanks for your sharing
anyone here knows where the micro speaker piece located, i am reffering for ,when you power ON the power button you will hear the DJI beep sound.
Anyone know if you could remove the lens and replace it - there are some oem lens available now. In know it is heated unlike the pro version, but is it possible to just remove it and glue a new one?
Can it run doom
I had a crash that broke the arm of my Mini 3. I would like to fix it myself. Would you say this video can cover the Mini 3?
Is this not the mini 3
Why not mini 3 Pro?
Brilliant. Thank you. Very helpful.
Teardown of 2 se?
I was looking for a teardown video in order to find out if maybe i can hide an Airtag somewhere in the drone. What do you think, is it possible? Would make finding the drone in case of a crash or maybe even theft much easier!
I already have an Airtag hidden in the drone bag, but i think a second one in the drone itself would be a good idea (even if it means it is technically over 250g afterwards).
Very unlikely
You did an amazing job at NOT SHOWING the rear arms being removed as they’re completely different than the front 🤦🏻♂️😤 ifixit usually does a much more detailed video, specially on something the host even admits is more challenging than a typical repair. So that being said, does anyone have any tips as to removing the rear arms that appear to just have a pin thru them??
where is 4 pro teardown
Thank You.
Today my Mini 3 run RTH on 21% battery during i stering to land on my hand... I dons see 9s countdown and no any audio alarm. Just run on full throttle up.
And crash on wall and 2 front arms broken like dry ice cream wafer XD Ofc all 8 preopllers too destroyed. Gimbal survived :D
Relly so crap durability. Especially mounting fron arm on 1mm tiny very crunchy plastic washer.
I think some glue and carbon insert in arm can easy repair. But i have DJI 2 y care and maybe i send for replace.
Those are fake sensor ports on the front?! Thought they'd have ultrasonic sensors at least😢
Yah it's misleading. Serves same purpose as a wing on a Mazda 3.
How do I get downward vision sensor cable for my dji mini 3 non pro?
You'll need to buy a broken drone and salvage the part or see if anyone on eBay is parting out their drone.
@@iFixitYourself mahn can u give me that cable ? It’s been like 5 months I’m still dead inside my house without flying and searching for the cable….
@@iFixitYourself could u pls help me….
you dint get a rear arm off
Too bad they are so difficult to repair. I am seriously thinking of just buying a cheap $100 brushless for fun then building a good cine-drone for photography…
When it comes to drones, building is always the way to go. Even buying a build someone made is better in the long term.
Its Nifty and such but I dont understand why they cant do this in a more Hobby friendly way. YOu can have these for the people who are ot Hobby people who enjoy repair and soldering or modifications.. It would be nice to see one of these on a more open style frame similar to a FPV freestyle frame. Something we can swap motors and such out on to play with. Something we can swap the Air 03 unit in and out of ect... They could definitely do one in a more Hobby Centric way and bring a ton mroe money in as well as prop up a struggling (but inevitable to eventually explode in a good way) industry.
I asked myself the same question, but I am also an engineer (and kind of knew the answer already).
Weight (
" emotional support" lol
Mini 3 has longer flight time than the mini 3 and 4 pro has the same camera flys better range about 3 miles doesnt over heat like te 3 and 4 pro which causes the drone to land as far as the sensors dont work at night flights or seeing wires cost is cheaper
Super❤
"stream yourself into a tree"
May as well be Greek as a new owner.
If you crash a Dji something wrong with you
if you dont crash you dont fly much in low altitude
This doesn't have the collision avoidance, it's very easy to crash this unlike their usual product lineup.
I think tech youtubers, and especially you, should be more rigorous in criticizing companies that don't supply spare parts. At the moment everyone's reaction is very passive, very "oh, too bad". It is of absolutely no use for a device to be easy to open, easy to remove a part, easy to disconnect something, if in the end you have nothing to put in its place.
It’s easier to diffuse a b00mb 😅
Your video was informative, but offers little to no technique to actually remove panels and disassemble, there was a split second shot of you using a spudger to free the one board, that’s what I’m looking for video of.
What a total nightmare to fix that pile of overpriced rubbish, if you can get the parts.
Are there alternatives that can take comparable footage and send live footage back to goggles or a controller/screen with comparable quality?
I don’t like the price but I find their video transmission hardware so tough to beat. Building something custom that’s comparable has, at least in my research, seemed like it would cost far more due to the lack of integration.
@@steve-adams All DJI builds are streamlined copies of builds other people have made. The one advancement they had was the digital FPV protocol, but now there are several cheap digital VTX modules that do the same, and without the compatibility issues DJI built into their hardware. You can build a high end arducopter based drone for about $300 and it not only will have longer flight time than the DJI, but a lot more lifting power as well. Personally I don't like gimbals because I like seeing the FOV move when the drone moves to get an idea on my latency but there are many designs for that as well.
DJI is for the guy who doesn't want to learn anything about drones and just wants to fly a few times before shelving it. It's a necessary market especially for commercial applications like inspection, but most people will be better off building their own.
@@DaveSmith-cp5kj Which VTX systems should I look into? I built a drone since I left that comment, but haven't gone a far as the VTX aspect. It's really just waiting on that, and I haven't had the time to follow through on research. Some tips would be appreciated!
@@steve-adams Caddex Walksnail is currently the best. You can get it for sub $100, although I would get the HD Pro kit for $150 as the camera has a much better night vision than DJI (not sure about the newest models though, my Mavic is about 4 years old). The transmitter is basically a copy of DJI exactly as the company is from former DJI employees.
Personally what I would suggest though is to use an analog camera and mount a nicer camera on that. The reason is that analog gets about 3x more range than digital options. All the long range digital videos you see like with DJI are with line of sight, such as launching from a hilltop or across a flat surface like a desert or over a forest. Most applications you won't have LOS so digital usually only gives you a few hundred yards before the image suddenly drops. This benefit of analog is why you don't need the collision avoidance (although arducopter can have that added) because you shouldn't ever be left headless with analog like you will with digital.
In both analog and digital your range will be reduced based on your connections. Electrical noise can cause both systems to have feedback during flight maneuvers that can be corrected in various ways, check youtube vids and forum posts about this. Usually the main fix is the use of a capacitor.
Also for the battery you are going to want to use 21700 cells as this is far more efficient than 18650 that used to be used.
Also don't buy a frame, 3D print them. FDM ender 3 Printers are so cheap they are basically the same price as a frame. Being able to print a frame means you can easily make big and small frames and tailor the flight characteristics to exactly what you want. There really isn't any engineering that goes into frame design, so you can also make your own from scratch. If you have never done CAD I would suggest designspark. It's probably the fastest program out there because it is a click and drag modeling system vs a coordinate style system. Although it is not as powerful as say Fusion360, but unless you are making auto engines you shouldn't hit any barriers.
Ah yes, because we definitely want a drone that expensive to not avoid fucking killing itself
T
WAIT just a minute..... The DRONE has a 32 bit CPU, BUUTTT their android software doesn't support 32 bit CPUs... WTH?
At 01:32 I see 2 pins, "Vbat and Gnd," Could I power some leds from these pins?
Can some one corfirm? what voltage those pins give? are they always powered or only when you start the drone?
Heyyyy I need ur help
Super bad helpppppoo how do I contact uuuuuuu