Track Saw vs Table Saw - which is faster in my workshop?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ก.ย. 2024
- I'm often asked when setting up a joinery business what should you buy first - a track saw or a table saw? Today I'm putting my trusty DeWalt DW745 table saw up against my workhorse Festool TS55 track saw. Two identical cuts and you'll see why the table saw wins for speed but the track saw wins hands down for versatility.
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DeWalt DW745 Table Saw
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Festool TS55 Track Saw
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Freud Pro LP40M 60 Tooth 250mm Saw Blade
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Freud Diablo D1060X 60 Tooth 10" Saw Blade
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#TrackSaw #Woodworking #TableSaw
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A couple of folk have mentioned that they think this test is unfair. Just to confirm, here's a link to where you can buy joinery related merchandise: teespring.com/stores/gosforthhandyman
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A couple of people have mentioned the test is unfair.yep here’s a link to my t shirts 😂😂😂😂
Best response ever! 😆👍
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I think some of the commenters have forgot or no idea of the "measure twice cut once rule". Obviously the fence to blade on the table saw once it's set up is a single measurement. Track saw you have to measure, mark and check the piece.
@@gileslaycock-brown7603 I think you are correct. And let's not forget also that many commenters have their heads in their asses when they make their comments.😲
A very timely video for me as I want to buy a saw. Thank you. Thank you for all the points you mentioned especially the safety aspect. An open bench saw accident would be horrendous, very painful and possibly life changing.
Time spent isn’t always an issue, if one’s not working professionally on a job. Sometimes its nice to the take time to just enjoy the process. A small workshop is an issue for me so a track saw wins there too. Thanks again.
Now cut that from an 8'x4' of 1" board...The tracksaw would beat on time, safety & quality every time
That depends entirely on the size of the table saw. The ones we have at work are sized to handle full 8'x4' sheets. :)
On the other hand, try ripping an 8" board to 4x 1 1/2" strips with a track saw. Trust me, you will have to get VERY creative (been there, done that, went out and bought a table saw)...
You right , safety first. Track saw is more safer for DIYs.
Nice evaluation! I do think that the table saw is better for small pieces. Final cuts shorter than a couple of feet (609.0 MM for you over the pond). Cutting down large sheets of course is easier and probably safer with the track saw. Having both is really the ideal. Thank Andy!
Sheet goods > Track Saw. Smaller manageable pieces or repeat cuts > Table saw
I think you've done a solid comparison of the strengths and weaknesses of both saws. Individuals will have to determine which tool best meets their needs and budgets, but you've given all of the information they need to make an informed decision. Several folks (Peter Millard, Izzy Swan) are showing what the low cost track saws can do, so for those just starting out the low cost track saw may be the best way to get going.
Thank you Kevin - great comment. 👍👊
This was really helpful, many thanks!
Time is not a big issue for me (I'm a hobbyist), but I also have limited workshop space. I was thinking of getting a circular saw, a table saw and a small jointer, but thanks to your video and other demos realised that most jobs can be handled by a good track saw. Dado joints will be a thing to solve, but this video was super helpful, so thanks for sharing your expertise!
Track saw first, and that is not how I did it, but 35 years ago, there were no track saws, only table saws. If you had a track saw, you made it. Love your channel and I am a Texan, so your info is good round the world. Something else I thought of was cutting stacked layers of plywood or mdf. The track saw will cut multiple layers while a table saw is one at a time unless you are daft as you would say. Thanks again for all the content.
Haha I'm with ya on the track saw. Used a plywood home made track for a good few years but the versatility of a good track saw in tight spaces ya can't beat.
excellent concise summary. I bought a circular saw as one of my first tools as i started dipping my toe in the woodworking game (as a hobby). I ended up getting an adapter so it will run along a track like a track saw. It doesn't plunge like yours but it does the job well. I had wondered if i should get a table saw but as i have a small shed to work out of i didnt. I think you have just confirmed for me that i still don't need a table saw, so thanks!
When i first started i bought a circular saw, it was pretty versatile to say the least, but the tavle saw opened up so many possibilities and made the job so much faster and much more accurate. I now only use my circular saw when i have really big boards or when i have no straight edge as a reference. Life is so much easier with the table saw
Same here. If whatever I'm cutting is narrower than about 70mm after the cut is made, I can't clamp the track to it, making the cut sketchy at best. That is where the table saw truly shines, making rip cuts on narrow stock.
The table top on my assembly table was made by 42 42mm strips of reclaimed 21mm formwork plywood from work with the hard surface removed on a thickness planer, ripped down to 40mm after being glued together 3-4 at a time and then glued together for a finished top that's 84x124cm. Each pair of 60-80mm sections were alligned with 5 10x40mm dowels to make the final glue-up easier to control. After sanding it down, it got 5 coats of satin clear flooring laquer.
It was one heck of a tedious job making that table top, but the finished result looks absolutely amazing, every single ply being visible on the full width of the top. :)
It would have been nearly impossible to make with a track saw.
I haven't turned on my cabinet saw for a while now. Most of the times track saw works better and it's a lot less intimidating. Table saws shine when making some special cuts especially when combined with jigs. For cabinet making I prefer track saws. Repeatability isn't an issue if you have parallel guides.
Hi Andy, I have been doing DIY for as long as I can remember and track saws weren't even invented when I started. I have only recently bought a track saw and I now use them both for different uses. As you said you cannot beat a track saw for breaking up full sheets of plywood but I still prefer a table saw for other cuts unless I am not in my workshop as the track saw is so portable.
I DID get the track saw first, well kind of, I got a Bosch GKS 18V-Li cirkular saw and matching traks (FSN 140 / FSN 70). All was fine and well, until I needed to rip some 200mm boards to 40mm strips for a project. As soon as the board gets narrower than the track, or at least narrower than needed to clamp the track safely to the board, it becomes extremely hard to make the cut safely. The project mentioned before was the reason why I decided to buy a table saw in the first place (I also ended up with a Dewalt DW745), and it has proven invaluable to me on numerous occasions since.
When timing the first cut on the table saw, I also have to factor in the time it takes me to move my assembly table out of the way, move my Metabo sliding mitre saw (sitting on one of those portable stands with folding legs), release the locks on the casters on the table for the saw, pull it out in the middle of the garage, lock the casters, move the trolley with my shop vac and cyclonick seperator into possition, plug the power cord of the shop vac to an outlet, attach the hose from the shop vac to the table saw and plug the table saws cord to the shop vac.
Setting up the rip fence takes only a couple of seconds, as I have the scale calibrated, so no need to fiddle around with a tape measure.
That being said, I still use the Bosch for cuts that exceeds the table saws capacity, and for straightening edges before running the boards through the table saw. :)
Aaaand the mitre saw takes care of the cuts that neither of the others does well, at least without a jig.
Oh, and the clamps I use for the tracks are from Makita. Also, I had to replace the splinter guard on the tracks, and being the old model, the original from Bosch is no longer sold in Denmark, so the new ones are from Festool, matches the original in width and thicknes, and were fairly cheap and in stock at the local hardware store. :)
Haha. Bit of fun. Unfair since using table saw as permanent installation; track saw all packed away. Could just as well have had track saw as permanent set up and table saw packed for van. So, the lesson is..
...whichever option you take, if you have to go one way or t'other, have a permanent set up in a well arranged workshop with separate tools for site work
I have looked and listened to several comparisons, this one is the top one for me.
I agree with you that a jointer is almost redundant with good saw blades.
I mostly do casework it would be impossible without a table saw and a hand held circular saw.
I do not currently have a track saw, it walked off, currently use a handheld circular saw with cutting guides.
I did something similar except the track saw was faster to use. That's because I have a jobsite saw, a Hitachi, that is kept up against the wall in it storage mode. The track saw is a Festool and is kept in its systainer. Both use the Festool CT36 I have. So when I start from that position for both the track saw is way faster to use. Thanks for a great video.
Its fair to say that a tracksaw that is intended for workshop use only (not onsite), would be ready to go: set up as part of a system, perhaps with parallel guides, and a few MFT tables, with more integrated overhead power & dust extraction and perhaps not all packed up.
For this reason including set up time and pack down for the tracksaw isn't really equivilent.
Morning Andy if you pulled your saw away from the wall it would cut 613mm, mine does, 😊. I tend to use my tracksaw for the big cuts and cut the more manageable sizes on the table saw also rebates and grooves are easier on the 745. I had 2 1400 tracks but bought a 2700 then cut 1 of the smaller tracks down to 800 and 600. Great vid.
It's not hitting the wall! I could move the guide pins closer to the edge of the aluminium bit but I think the official limit is about 500mm. Cheers bud! 👍😀
Perhaps your saw is older than mine, it has 2 rulers for the fence and 2 guide pins and you move the fence to the second pin and then use the second rule to get 600+ mm.
Gagh, sorry Ian - I'm reading the US specs (20") - you're right - 610mm! That was me looking online since I couldn't be bothered to find the instruction manual . This was the one I glanced at...
www.dewalt.com/products/power-tools/saws/table-saws/10-in-compact-job-site-table-saw-with-sitepro-modular-guarding-system/dw745
This is the correct one...
products.dewalt.co.uk/powertools/productdetails/catno/DW745/ 😂👍
I've only had a table saw for most of my career. Finally decided to invest in a Makita cordless track saw and I was wow! Where have you been all my life! I find it a lot faster than a table saw for most tasks. Especially when trying to cut a 16" or so wide rip down an 8' sheet of ply. Usually would have to incorporate a helping hand to do that at a jobsite, but can be performed effortlessly by myself with the track saw. The track saw is an ecosystem and you'll need several size tracks, clamps, and an array of accessories to fully utilize it's benefits, so the cost of entry is high. If you're just starting out you can get a decent table saw for under $200 and a pretty good one for $500 to $600. Also, in my humble opinion any carpenter worth his salt should have mastered using a table saw. Plus you'll appreciate the nuances of the track saw when you graduate to one.
I'm just a homeowner who just started out building a patio dining table using pocket holes. I really enjoyed the process and would like to start building more things around the house. In researching this very table saw vs. track saw topic, I settled on a track saw (space concerns and breaking down sheet goods) and I was able to get the Makita cordless + bonus 39" track for $429 at HD. I now realize that I think I'd end up needing a table saw also for ripping smaller pieces and for the other advantages it has. I probably would use it more than the track saw I think. So my question is: Should I keep the Makita and buy a lower end table saw ($200-400) or get a good jobsite table saw ($500-600) like the Dewalt and get a budget track saw like the Wen? I still haven't opened up the Makita so I can still return it and pay the difference for a table saw.
Interesting comparison, not quite sure how fair the time methodology was, if you've got room for a table saw you've got room for a permanently set up TS55, so the time difference is a bit unfair, but on the whole pretty much in agreement, wonder what mmmmmmdf will think!
That's Mr MmmmmDF to you, Peter! 😂
Personally I would never leave my TS55 set up. Just too much risk of tripping over the cable / dust hose and dropping the thing on the floor. Happened once - luckily no damage. Peter - out of a matter of interest do you have yours out and ready all the time? ...so to speak.
If I'm using it for a big project yes, but otherwise its in a systainer, similarly the table saw is put to one side unless I'm using it for a particular big job, hence the comments regarding setting up. I have, however got all my plugs up high on the wall behind the bench, so tripping is less of a worry Manor Wood used to have a shoe on the end of his MFT lifting rail that parked the saw when not in use. - One other thing I have found with the tracksaw is that the tracks can slide slightly unless you're directly over the saw, as you note the table saw is more consistently accurate.
the small shed I agree with you 100% that comparison was so fishy. I don’t trust this video
I sometimes recycle used/castoff wood furniture/cabinets. The track saw shines there. Much of the wood in that furniture, including the plywood is much better quality than what I can buy today and the tracksaw makes easy work of it once you've done some disassembly. I might use a table saw to do repetitive cuts once it's all broken down, depending on the use. Most of my shop furniture was made from recycled.
My tracksaw is set up on a table (going to make a parf top soon) with the dust collection right next to it. I'd rather use it whenever possible. Main reason is safety and flexibility.
I’ve just started my own joinery business. I do own an old table saw, but it scares the life out of me. I was making do with a circular saw and a home made see guide. After watching your videos on making the display pedestal, I splashed out on a cheap variable speed track/plunge saw. Ain’t looked back, its so easy to cut perfectly straight and on the mark. Perhaps the correct tool for the job is to watch your videos, for which I’m eternally grateful. Especially the painting, my god was I getting annoyed with painting MDF till I watched those videos. Thanks again, you’ve put me so far in front of where I was.
Thanks for the kind words bud - best of luck! 👊👍
When I was at my old house with a separate workshop I used my cabinet saw constantly I didn’t use the festoon tracksaw much, but I moved into a smaller home and since space was an issue I was
Forced to sell my cabinet saw and kept my tracksaw and I don’t regret it. Though I will invest in the mft 3 here shortly. Since it can be folded up when not in use
I have both of the exactly the same two you have and I couldn’t be without either of them
👍👊
I’ve just purchased the Bosch tracksaw. Mafell would have been nice but the cost!!!!
It’s accuracy and cut quality are essential when it comes to worktops, doors etc.
Done a couple of doors today and was so pleased I’d moved to the tracksaw saw.
Time saved, clean cuts and the job done.
I love em.
Keep the tracks clean. Give the grip rubbers a wipe to clear any dust or resin and clamping shouldn’t be needed.
Yup - air gun works great for cleaning the tracks. 👍
Great point on safety. Track saws are way safer, even if you know what you are doing with a table saw.
Cant agree with that. My wife works where they rebuild people, mainly hands and facial injuries, and she cannot recall an injury due to a table saw...same can’t be said for saws that are held in the hand tracksaws, jigsaws, etc all send people to have pieces reattached or repaired regularly. One guy managed to chop off privates with a circular saw....ouch!
Don't know about where you are but in the UK according to HSE tablesaws account for over 50% of serious injuries to woodworkers.
Craig Hastie yes but the hse only reports on workplace injury, where saw bench is going to be widely used over hand helds, and most of those accidents were put down to missing guards/riving knives in which case negligence and stupidity are playing the major role rather than the machine itself. Here in France i’ve noticed that companies take their employee safety more seriously.
@@marquisbois990 circular saw is not a track saw. In circular saw the blade is always exposed except for that annoying guard that in practice is often defeated anyway. In track saw you have to actively push the saw down (and you need something to push against, cannot be done mid air) to expose the blade. As soon as you either stop applying force or lose whatever you are pushing it against (e.g. dropping the saw) the blade retracts in a fraction of a second. In fact many manfacturers like mafell and makita don't even put riving knife on the track saw because the plunge mechanism is so much superior safety feature and a riving knife would make it harder and less reliable.
Basically the injury you are referring to is very hard to imagine happening with track saw.
Yup - not saying it can't happen but you'd have to make a really sustained effort to injure yourself with a track saw. 👍
I think its safe to say they both have there likes and dislikes,closet organizers ruff cut with a track saw ,final cut with a table saw ,in north America,ruff cut with a circular saw /final cut with a table saw ,but like with any tool you buy ,it has to pay for itself other wise it will just sit there gathering sawdust ,and i havent seen anybody cut an arch with either saw ( track or table saw) where as ive seen /cut a few myself with a circular saws ,if you ve got the room and the need ,well they all make life easier and less time consuming,which means more profit in the end ,have you ever had or tried Rockwell's 4 1/2 inch circular saw yet,small but works pretty good in tight spots and you can plunge cut just as easy as a track saw , great video Ghostford Handyman : )
I have both machines and love them both , just fitted a kitchen and the track saw was brilliant for cutting out openings for the sink and hob .
It's awesome for that. 👍
I was just about to say: build an MFT as you said it! I made my own copy of the UJK Parf system from metre rules and a 3d printed plate for my router, which was a pain in the ass. Its definitely worth buying a ready made parf-guide setup from Axeminster.
Did pretty much the same thing except I laser cut my router template. Ruined a big 1200 board LOL (stack errors due to pretty much unnoticeable angle error on laser) so bit the bullet and bought a 'seconds' parf guide on fleabay from axminster - absolutely dead nuts on and saved 40 quid just because the 'gold' anodising was a $hite colour :-) ! I also have a great dw475 - came with a free hernia lol.
Yup - defo on my to do list for next year. 👍
Hi Andy, Yep the track saw would be my first choice, having seen this comparison. I would have a table - a little bigger than the table saw - with the foam, track, saw and dust collection all set up, I expect it would be as quick as the table saw then. As it is I got the Table saw first!
Not knocking any of your comments as I agree its horses for courses. I also own a job site saw, track saw and circular saw for rough cross cuts using a framing or speed square. As you can guess I'm not a beginner but I only went all in on joinery and woodturning about 3 years ago.
However for a startup it's also a good idea if you don't plan on being mobile and you have space (large garage for example). It's easy to make a cabinet makers grade table saw from a site saw and you learn a lot along the way building the bench and underneath storage. My first shop saw was made from a site saw and I simply built around the job site saw. Then made my own fence system and so on. Later I bought a cabinet saw and well...………. I sold it a few weeks later as the one I built was more accurate. Yes it involved a lot of work and problems being ironed out including completely rebuilding the site saw several times to align the blade with the mitre slots and remove slop in the factory build probably learned more from building my own saw than I've learnt since in such a short space of time. The same saw still lives in my home shop and used for big rip cuts when breaking down sheet goods due to the (L)4ft x (W)8ft outfeed I built (outfeed is also the assembly table too as and when needed).
Yes they are by far more dangerous however they can be more versatile than a track saw as you can make custom sleds etc to fulfill special jobs or just to replace the need to have a sliding mitre saw (Notice I didn't say compound mitre saw). It's also hard to get hold of special blades for the smaller saws whereas its easy if you do your homework to buy specialist blades for a table saw (NOT Dado stacks I'm not opening that can of worms). Blades such as a finishing blade as we call them in the UK or a flat grind in the USA for example for trenching work using a crosscut sled do the same job and better in my opinion. Again it's not a one size fits all when it comes to setting up your workshop or mobile platform. Keep up with the videos look forward to them each week on both channels.
Kind regards. Giles.
Really depends what you're doing but good comment 👍. Gaagh... you mentioned dado stacks!!! ... 😜😜
I bought my track saw then later a table saw. For simple straight cuts a track saw is more versatile. For example trimming the bottom of a door. If you get more into joinery then the amount if jigs you can make for a table saw is endless.
Great vid,i have both and its like you say they both have there own positives and negatives i had my table saw first which suited my needs and track saw came later and its great o have both
Yup - same here 👍
Brilliant comparison mate, I have the excellent TS55 and I have a SIP 10 cast iron table saw, both simply wonderful machines however as I sometimes asked to go to site I have been thinking of the DeWalt745 so your video was very helpful, thanku for taking the time and putti g together a very insightful and clever comparison, keep up the great work, kind regards Louie from Northern Ireland Ulster Workshop
This seems like a totally backwards conclusion. I understand that the two saws are very similar when ripping sheet goods and making large pieces into medium pieces. But using a table saw does so much more than that. I use my table saw to rip long boards, say 10' of 1x4 into 1/2" strips (pardon the imperial measurements). That's what I use my table saw most for; ripping. You can't viably rip narrow stock with a track saw. I mean, you can, but it's really not ideal.
The track saw is perfect for some things, but a circular saw + table saw will get you there. Track saw alone will be limited. To me a track saw's best feature is work outside of the shop. I use it in the shop plenty, but I could do without it in that setting.
But what REALLY makes the table saw the winner is all the secondary uses. Crosscut sleds, miter sleds, dados, box joints. I like the video, I just disagree with the conclusion. Table saw is a must have for any carpenter of any kind. It is the first and most important power tool tied with a drill and circ saw.
Every carpenter I know would say the same about cross cut sleds - that they are pretty ruddy useless for anything other than trimming very short pieces. You are never going to be able to handle a 5.7 metre length of skirting board on a sled - piece of cake on an SCMS, however
A track saw cutting station can allow you to do narrow ripping.
Neither quickly, nor with the same repeatability in my experience. There's also a limit as to the length of work you can get under a track.
For example about 3 years ago or so we needed to make-up our own softwood split battens (French cleats) to carry decorative panels which were to be hung around an atrium. Four sides, 20 x 5 metres opening, two cleats all round, over 3 floors (so about 300 linear metres of bevel cutting). That's a lot of split batten. We were on a tight schedule due to other trades needing access after us but we had sufficient stock on hand of ex-3x2 PSE softwood on site to do the job, all in 6.1 metre lengths - our timber merchant was quoting 4 to 5 days turnaround minimum to deliver. I cut the lot in two long hard mornings with the assistance of our labourer on the DW745. Having used a track saw or about 20 years now (since my first Hilti) I know that would not have been achievable with a track saw. There are tasks like that where a table saw is just so much better
@@jobandknock427 That's why I have all 3, they each does a certain kind of job much better than the others.
And none of them will drill holes, that's why I also have a drill press. ;)
As a bespoke cabinet maker I can say I love both, the track saw really feels right when resizing sheet material, but repeated lengths are faster and more accurate via my table saw. If you can a place for both machines deserve their place within your workshop.
Ever tried Woodpecker guides?
@@mpbootcamp7009 I have never used the woodpecker guides, they are very well made and pretty accurate, I like to use the festiol long rail and then if possible rely on the extreme accuracy of the cabinet saw, both used together right results in highly accurate cuts and joinery buddy.
@@louiesworkshop2023 I dont have room for a huge cabinet saw; also dont have 2 or 3 phase power. i think huge cabinet saws are overpriced for what they do.
@@mpbootcamp7009 They do indeed require alot of space, I really do not have a large workshop so I had to place the saw carefully as to maximise its use, for example plenty of feed room in and out, are they overpriced? I would have to agree, effectively it's really only a cast bed, induction motor and a sliding fence but over the years I have found that what you pay for is what you get! The saw is very heavy so offers a very stable platform even with long heavy stock, the saw is powerful and when ripping oak this becomes very important, and let's not forget the fence, a good fence offers great accuracy! I have been blessed to have a few cabinet saws and my verdict as an owner and user is a very necessary practical and accurate machine that makes life alot easier, offers repeatable solutions and stability, over priced? Maybe, Nice to have, Yes! As I live in the U.K we have as standard 240ampa at single phase so,the saw runs happily on this power supply, so 3 phase is not really necessary, Hope this helps mate. Regards Louie
Track saw 1st in my estimation. I have both the Festool 55 and 75 and absolutely would go to the 75 1st. The power and capabilities are better than the 55. I also have a Powermatic 65B table saw. I use it on occasion. I don't own a jointer and I don't see any use for one. My track saw does an absolutely great job. I just got done gluing up a 40"x80" table top and the boards came together just great without the jointer, and that was from rough cut lumber straight from the saw mill. I highly recommend buying the Festool TS 75 as your 1st saw. Very pricey, but worth every penny you spend.
I started out with a cirkular saw that supported tracks (Bosch GKS 18V-Li), but soon realized its limitations. Try ripping an 8" (200mm) board to 4 strips of 1 9/16" (40mm), you'll see what I mean.
Been there, done that, went out and bought a table saw. Kept the Bosch for breaking down larger pieces of sheet goods...
The table saw is obviopsyt the best and fastest.
But you could have done without the sawdust catcher on the tracksaw!
I love the split screens - well done!
And the music is good too.
Great video Andy, so many less than positive comments, must have you scratching your head. A huge benefit to the tracksaw is the ability to do a tapered cut easily, that last piece of flooring, door bottom, work tops, filler strips, and on. Bevel the strike side of a door, fit it into an old opening....how did I live without it
Ha ha, was always going to be a contentious one - table saw lovers and track saw lovers! 😀👍
One other consideration is space. for a table saw you need at least double the length of your work piece plus the width of the blade, for the track saw you only need enough space for the work piece plus enough at either end for the saw.
Thanks for the interesting video. I would agree with you on most points especially the higher level of safety with the track saw. But there are two glaring exceptions. You are comparing the accuracy of the cut by measuring the width of the cut piece. In the case of both the table saw and the track saw, human error can lead to inaccuracies - in the case of the table saw, if the work piece is not kept pressed against the fence all through the cut and in the case of the track saw, if the track is not aligned perfectly to the line along which the cut should be made. So, it's unfair to say that the track saw was less accurate.
The second point is the way you measure the time taken for the whole operation with the two saws. Here again, you are unfair to the track saw.
Of course, you do mention that each has its place and ideally, you should have both.
Track saw was only 0.2mm less accurate. 😂👍
Good video, i have both also, for breaking down full sheets its the tracksaw all day, but like you say for smaller pieces i like the table saw.
Horses for courses i suppose!
Indeedy! 👍
Interesting. The quickness seemed to be more due to the track saw not having been setup prior to the cut. Price being of not concern, and knowing that I'll be working on my own, I would want to know which tool would be better. It seems to me that the track saw would be the way to go. I'm not sure what other pieces of equipment you would need to go with the track saw. But, it seems to me that the track saw is great for saving space, even if a bit cumbersome to use. There are some really great tables out now that are "saw-friendly", as well. I think you sold me on the track saw. It's just me in my own DIY setup, cutting plywood. GREAT video. Thank you for taking the time 👍
Hi ya Andy totally agree with you
I have both the table saw and track saw .I have had the table saw now for 3yrs and used it loads in my job as a kitchen fitter in Newcastle but this year got my self a track saw and to be honest the table saw has been left in the corner of the van unused ...of the two if I had to choose it would be the track saw all day long ..looking forwards to the next vid
Andy
I'm convinced. Track saw for me
I have the dewalt 7491rs it's a beast for ripping anything. It falls on its face for cross cutting. A cross cut sled adds little to the width you can cut. For me the track saw is the answer for very wide cross cuts for example I can rip a 4x4 sheet to 34.5 inches but I need a cabinet panel so now I have to cross cut 34.5 x 48 to 34.5 x 24 you can't safety cross cut that on the dwe7491rs. Even with a large cross cut sled the infeed is just to shallow
To make the track saw cut more accurate, instead of marking the piece and laying the track to the marks, lay the track and measure to the track edge. It’s faster too. Also consider using track clamps.
Good tips! See the vid I did about repeat cuts. 👍
I was so happy when you said 'millimetres'! Finally, I've found someone using the metric system (which obviously made sense knowing you're from the UK)! I'm from Malaysia (Commonwealth Country) so I can never understand the imperial system, especially when they use fractions! Anyway I've just bought a Stanley table saw and I'm trying my best to watch as many related videos as possible before using it. I've discovered your channel when I've watched your video about Table Saw safety. Such a great content. I've also wondered about using it on the side but I've never seen any TH-camr do that...Just one question, I saw you using a self-made PUSH BLOCK which looks huge, can you make a video about it? Couldn't find a video about that from your channel though. THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THE SAFETY LESSONS!!
I think of the track saw as mostly being for breaking down 4x8 sheets of material safely by myself.
Thanks to it & a 12" sliding compound miter saw, the table saw has fallen to a niche role, for me. The good thing is now I don't have to keep the table saw in the middle of a large room.
Excellent video but you took about 20 seconds to set the distance from the fence on the table saw, it only takes me 5 seconds on my table saw with a built in adhesive tape. Also, no one has mentioned dado cuts which work brilliantly on a table saw with a good dado set so if you only had a track saw you would need a router and/or router table but where the track saw comes into its own is ripping long stock and cross cutting wide stock. Even with a good crosscut sled the most you could crosscut on a table saw is about 500 to 600mm whereas on a track saw you are only limited by the length of your track and work bench. While you achieved reasonable parallelism on the track saw I find marking two independent pencil marks problematical. Some sort of jig or 3rd party parallel guides would be better to ensure parallel cuts. I would therefore say the opposite of your conclusion and advise get a table saw, larger than yours, before a track saw and like in my case get the timber yard to roughly cut it to manageable pieces first and then fine tune those cuts on your table saw. They are more accurate but if you are constantly needing to do long rips and wide crosscuts then get a track saw or preferably both.
Table saw is better for repeating cuts but...
1. your table saw was allready hoocked on electricity and vacum cleanner...
2. you dont put the rail and saw on the wood before measuring... so thats for video " how not to use TS 55"
3. why you didnt take out cabel and hose ffrom dewalt when you finish the job? xD ...we dont pack our track saw every time when we cut a board
4. buy Festool CS50 set...
5. there you go... have a nice day :)
And what about the average home handyman.
What should they buy, considering the cost and the space.
Thanks for posting this Gosforth. I’d like to see this again with plywood.
I use these saws a lot for cutting ply - they're both great! 👍
While I like your suggestion to get a track saw, I think the comparison was very flawed.
1. It took you 1:34 to get the track saw connected up, once you did it took nearly the same amount of time to do the cut. If you have room for a table saw, why not leave the track saw set up and on a hanger?
2. On the track saw you fiddle, fiddle, fiddle. Use a clamp on one end, or an MFT, or drill holes and make the equivalent out of your workbench.
3. Regardless of the significant utility of the track saw, you can do things on a table saw with a cross cut sled that would be a real challenge with a track saw, again, unless you have or fake an MFT. Even then I think I'd want the crosscut sled.
Good discussion of some points at the end, but quite a misleading "race". If someone doesn't watch the entire video they'll come away with the wrong conclusion.
Respect your channel enough to subscribe to your Patreon page... great business advice buddy. Agreed with 90% of comments here, especially stating the set up times a bit unfair and you'd need to move a tad faster if you were working with me 😂 I have an 8'x4' table built in centre of workshop with 1" insulation board to protect worktable surface from cuts from my TSC55. Expensive track saw but as others have mooted, 'tis so adaptable and if if left out its extraction attached, it's nowhere near as slow to use as your experiment showed. Regardless great vid, great patreon business downloads... more power to your elbow mate 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I could work quicker but the cuts would be less accurate. If I left mine out and connected up it would end up in pieces on the floor. If you've got the space though! 👍👊
Great video and very useful, but think I’m still going to need both lol I still can’t decide, thanks for sharing 👍
Really enjoyed this Andy. The time comparison was fair as setup time is a factor and like you my table saw waits patiently with everything set from the last cut. I’ve only recently begun using a track saw and love the versatility. You can’t easily safely make half the cuts where your using the plunge cut on a table saw. Like you if I was starting again a track saw would be my first purchase. I’m not sure if you mentioned it but you were comparing tools of a similar cost. I’m not sure a cheaper table saw would have produced a similar cut to a cheaper track saw. Cheerio.
Cheers bud! 👍
Great Vs video Andy,
back in the day, I only had one saw for ripping, it was my Distin Rip Handsaw.
No cordless drills, it was a Milly hand drill, brace and bits, and a Yanky screwdriver 😄
@Jim Hope ....and they didn't have t'interweb either... and everything was black & white !
I know this because TV showed me !
😅😅😅😅😅
Actually me dad was a cabinet maker & I remember him leanin into that Distin too... loved hangin around the bench as a kid, then went on to make a livin in engineering, 4 boys & 5 girls & no one followed in his footsteps 😔 .... its only in the last 5 years I've got into the woodworkin, better late (60y.o.) than never... 😅
Re. Andys vid here ? Unless u have a "real" cabinet saw , I think there's not much difference in the tracksaw / contractors saw.. 😞
I have both.... but....
I WANT a cabinet saw !!! 😣
( but I don't really need one ... 😏)
Greetings from the West of Ireland 👍😎☘
Cheers Gary! Ripping with a handsaw is a killer. 😂👍
aye Jim, those were the days you would use a hammer to put a nail in 🔨😄
Pleasure to to "meet" a craftsman with genuine "tools".
Thanks Andy - I've just unpacked a DeWalt 745 now the price has dropped below £400 (well only by a penny, but that's good enough for me !) I've struggled along without one for too long. The ratio of times in the video reflects my experience with long guides and hand-held circular saw. I don't have room for a MFT anyway.
Great stuff - take care with it! 👍
Well your table saw was all set up.. and for those doing work on site.. have to set up a table saw takes a lot longer and you need to make a support system such as an out feed table for big sheet materials.. you still need a table/flat surface for the track saw to work.. like you mentioned the track saw is a huge help for large cuts! I think that's where it shines. Plus you don't need as much space for a track saw..
The Dewalt DW745 fits in the back of my Yaris. My 1400mm tracks doesn't. ;)
That being said, I do all my woodworking in my garage, so portability isn't an issue, and my Dewalt sits secured in a table with a router extension. :)
I held off on purchasing a Festool track saw for this very reason.
Couldn’t deal with the cord and hose, so I waited until they came out with T55 cordless. No hose, no power cable, no hassle.
If you couple that with a TSO product GRS 16 crosscut jig, I believe this cut with the track saw would take less than 30 seconds.
Make one tick mark, lay the track down, instant perfect square alignment, and cut.
The TSO Square has eliminated the need for a cross cut sled in my shop.
Don’t give me wrong, I have a Dewalt tablesaw in my shop for cutting thin strips, but it mostly gathers dust. Plus, when breaking down large sheet goods, the safety, accuracy and chip free cuts on the Festool track saw are amazing.
The progression in hoseless dust extraction is amazing. Sorry, couldn't resist... 😂👍
Very good informative video Andy, but unfair set up time. I have the same Dewalt 745 saw but the TS55 is way out of my reach of my budget so I bought a cheap version of track saw from Rutland's a month ago for £68.00 (special offer) best money I have spent this year!!!! and an mft top for £45.00 now I feel a whole new world has opened up to me. You are absolutely right both is great.
Don't think set-up time is unfair as I always keep my TS55 in the box - so this is 'as is' for me. 😀👍
I have to cut some boards stuff around the house. A tracksaw is much more benefiacial for me, since I'm not a carpenter and I wouldn't like wasting space to set a tablesaw up. For DIY projects or very rare use I say tracksaw is better.
Great test and good topic to talk about! ,But you can get a dewalt table saw that can now cut up to over 620mm so you can now cut any size of a sheet, Also if you do alot of finishing work i would suggest the track saw , I mostly build extensions which is mostly roughing work which I find the table saw great for cutting rafters and plywood, But I do use the track saw for cutting MDF doors and worktops( I have the dewalt), Hope this helps someone , I would say they are both critical pieces of equipment if you are a builder!
Great video! I need to cut drawer fronts for my kitchen in the same height as my old ones. Being a beginner doing research I feel like a table saw, no matter how inferior to track saw, is the best for that specific job. Cutting repeated same size boards. Am I thinking right?
Great video as allways and yes versatile tracksaw wins, but Tablesaw was Cheating...Had dust collection on already...!
PS:
Festool track is 185mm.
(All measurements in mm)
Board 380
Measurement: 380-185=195.
Measure 195 from alu-Back on track to get precise setup and cut.
PPS:
Cutting long thin pieces Off a sheet, where the Offcut is used:
Measure from Alu-Front edge of track, rubber edge is not precise.
Rubber edge + sawblade = 5
Strip: 20
Measurement: 20+5=25
Measure 25 from alu-front.
PPPS: Idea for a new video...?!
Weekend greetings from chill Denmark...Jakob
I do this but I use hultafors talmeter instead of regular tape measure which would require separate readings, insane accuracy. I actually cut my splinter guard completely with router because it is so useless method to get accurcate cuts.
Yes, me too Petka...! The Talmeter tape is best for most work. Old original Talmeter has slightly better base.
Cheers and big welcome to Denmark! Very rainy in Newcastle today. 👍🌧🌂
Actually from your video if i want to be faire i got 1:25 for the tracksaw and 1:25 also for the tablesaw.
On table saw you start the timer when you arive with the tape measur. On the tracksaw side you arive with the tapemeasur at 1:40
Then when you finish the cut with the tracksaw for me the timer should top when you put the saw away (I usally tend to take the rail out with the saw on it so it would take about the same time than puting just the saw away) So that ends the cut at 3:05. ==> Tracksaw time = 1:25
So it's about a draw game here :c)
Although it would be diferent if you had to make ten of them. Well unles you set up a gig on your track ... So not that clear.
Gagh... you're making me watch the video again... 😫
Ha ha, OK OK... yes defo, once I have my new improved 'central hanging dust collection' you could knock off the time for putting the hoses away. I don't think you can knock off the set-up time at the start though. 👍😀
Great video. Lots of useful information. Great accuracy from both saws, but the table saw should always win because you are setting the cut at one reference point. With the tracksaw you are setting the cut from two reference points, not withstanding your point that the workpiece needs to have a straight edge to get an accurate cut on the tablesaw. Wish I could afford a TS55...
Really enjoyed that, as I’m just starting out this sort of video really helps and has confirmed the track saw is the way to go for me!
Jason Hook me too, going to start with an mft/track saw combo in my new shed/shop
dalailager yeah totally agree, Peter Millard at the 10 minute workshop uses that setup and it seems really great! just need lots of £££££ now 🙄
All the best 👍
Defo the best starting point. Live with just the track saw for a while and see if you can live without the table saw. 👍
Are you sure it wouldn't have been fairer to also run to the store to buy the track saw and the vacuum system and compare that to a table saw with height and dust collection already set up?
Each tool has its pluses and minuses for the table saw if you need to do a large cat say and 800 mil part on a full sheet of ply that table saw would be quite awkward and that's where you would need the track saw when you need to cut a bit of 2 x 4 down the middle that's where the table saw is better
Indeed, rip cuts on narrow stock is nearly impossible to do (at least safely) with a track saw / cirkular saw.
Thank you for this review. I would endorse your comments re safety. I had a Dewalt 745 and I found it quite terrifying . It had so much torque and I had kick back on a number of occasions. I lost it when I had a fire in my workshop and it is a tool I am hesitating about replacing. Hence my interest in your views. I think I am going to go for a track saw with an MFT/Parf top set up
If you ever experience kickback on a table saw, it's because you have done something wrong, or the saw wasn't set up properly. I urge you to head over to Stumpy Nubs and watch a few of James' videos on table saw safety.
The only time I have ever experienced kickback on my own DW745, was when I tried to use a scrap piece of plywood as a sacrificial push stick. When the stick hit the blade, it was ripped out of my hand, flying through my garage. I know now why it happened, and I will NEVER make that mistake again! Now I have a PROPER push stick. :)
@@HepauDK thank you.
I will take a look.
Great comparison review, there mate👍
As you say, they both have differing advantages, and in the end, you'll end up with both anyways...👌
Cheers Bill! 👍👊
Right tool for the right job 😉
EDIT: Very informative video overall. Thanks.
However, the time comparison is unfair because you only a give single total time for each. The ratio would be much different if you were making multiple cuts due to setup and teardown being a smaller portion of the time. You should've quantified [setup + teardown] times separately from [per cut] times.
Great video. I agree, they are both good tools. I use edgebanding for zero clearance and saw small stock on my 745.
👍👊
Very good comparison, its swings and roundabouts on that one for me, I don't have a tracksaw (and not a festool at the price!) I made a jig for my Circular saw in different lengths (see youtube) and I always use a steel rule (have 3 in different lengths) against a speed square (I just think they are more accurate than a tape measure, tough one to call
Nice comparison. Thanks.
One difference, for folks just setting up - cost - there are cheap plunge saws that'll do a pretty good job, esp. with a blade change. Table saws, it's a different story - most of the cheaper end of the market are cr@p (cropped fences a terrible idea!). Haven't met many people who've had unlimited budgets when setting up, so cost should be a consideration. Better to wait and get a decent T/saw, P/saw will plug that gap if necessary, as well as being useful of themselves.
Great video. Plenty of content. Well-presented. Not too long. Way to go!
Sorry why are you not fixing the dust extraction to the table saw to be a fare and pluging it in or have the plung saw all ready connected to the dust extraction and pluged in.?
Beautiful absolutely beautiful
Excellent comparison and video, thanks.
Cheers Mark! 👍👊
Started with table saw, then got a track saw, and at that point realised that I should have begun with a sliding mitre saw. If your main material is dimensional lumber and sheet goods, track & mitre saw is the way to go if you are in a budget or have little space. I use table saw and mitre saw the most, and track saw mainly to break down larger sheets.
Forgot to say, great video 👍 Noticed you were tape measuring on the table saw, I have the same model and have recently calibrated the fence so that I can actually trust the reading off the saw directly- does trusting this make you nervous? Found it to be very reliable now.
I've never found the in-built measure accurate enough - keep meaning to have another look at it but don't think I could get stuff accurate to sub 1mm. 👍
How about you try that again with the jobsite saw packed up on the floor or at least the ts55 set up ready too go......
i wonder how long it would take if you actually compare them head to head. You've struggled with vacuum and power with festool, while they were fixed with the dewalt.
I have to agree, track saw more useful unless you have a big workshop and huge table saw and outfeed to handle full sheets. I recently bought a dewalt table saw for a big project but didn't end up using a great deal, but for the things I did do it was excellent. Repeat strips and small thin cuts.
👍
Table saw is quite dangerous and intimidating especially for a beginner. Track saw looks relatively safe.
I've got some 100mm wide boards that I want to edge joint to make a tabletop. I was wondering, is it possible to 'joint' the edges with the tracksaw? Or are they too narrow? Thanks.
I like a penal saw if I have the space and money but track saw with parallel festool guide is doing very good repeating cut you can cut up to toe mm strips
Sure it would be a crime NOT to have one... 😂😂
Track saw all the way I have a table saw and only used it a few times it scares the crap 💩 out of me.track saw is lot more portable and safer to use.👍
i never thought about that, so now the track saw is off my wish list, Thank you so much.
??? because of this nonsense????? So you will take your saw out of the systainer before every cut and install the dust collection, and after every cut vice versa? I would recommend to look for a different hobby...
@@fiddleronthebike 1. I'm pretty sure the guy said "The TRACK saw is off his list." and 2. Did you even watch the comparison of the cut, and then the recommendation afterwards, saying to buy a track saw? It doesn't take 4 minutes to set up a track saw, like he demonstrated, it took him a minute to plug the tool in for christ's sake, if you're that slow you are the one who needs a different hobby. And if you are going to rely on a track saw instead of a tablesaw, it would already be at the ready! You don't set up a dust collection system just for one cut that isn't generating much dust! Der, if it were a real hobby you'd be making more cuts than that and again, the saw would be at the ready because it's replacing the tablesaw, not being used as a secondary tool. The tablesaw takes up more space than a tracksaw that is ready to cut.
Sometimes ya need the tracksaw to get a straight edge on a piece, so that ya can use yer table saw!
Exactly! 👍
Excellent review. You have certainly helped to make up my mind. Thank you
I have both but to be honest my workshop isn't set up correctly for either. I'm intending to do a refit, build a new bench etc and because of space I will have to design and build around either the table saw or track saw, at the moment I think it will be the track saw.
Thanks Andy great video as usual.
Cheers Graham! 👍
You can have both. I have my table saw (same one) and router on a wheeled base. An MFT lookalike (like MFT/3 but a bit bigger) top fits over the top of this. Best of both worlds, and takes no more space than either. Takes 30 seconds to swap.
This is not a fair comparison. The table saw had the extractor and power cable plugged in. The track saw should have had the extractor and power cable also plugged in.
The other thing about the Dewalt is that its table is anything but flat, which will have you scratch your head a few times when you realize how it affects accuracy. But then again it's _only_ a jobsite saw, made for rougher work.
If you really need table saw for the shop, and you have the space for it, put a bit more money in it and get one that has a precision milled cast iron table and is easily adjustable for squareness (unlike most jobsite table saws). It's one of those things which after you start using it for a while you curse yourself for having waited so long to get one.
Mine is perfectly flat but I've heard of others that aren't. The 745 is a *very* accurate saw. 👍
@@GosforthHandyman It seems to depend on when you bought it. Unfortunately on the one I had (bought in spring 2015) the middle part (between the two T-tracks) had a slope on both sides of the blade towards it. With a straight edge on top I could easily pass a 0.9mm shim between the table and the edge (=~1° per 50mm). So if I referenced my blade of that part of the table, only one side would be square. If I then needed to cut a piece that was spanning across the whole table then again the cut would not be square. I also had trouble with the T-tracks being narrower in some spots, making it harder for miter sliders to run smoothly. I had to use a file to remove those spots. I ended up selling it and breaking the bank for a Hammer.
Interesting! Mine's 2014. You're not the first to mention this though! 😥
Including setup time is kind of nonsense - you could choose to leave the track saw out saving space, and you could choose to put the table saw neatly away
My first power saw was a Makita sidewinder. I bought a simple aluminum straight edge guide. Nowhere as good as either option here, but I was able to build hundreds of projects... I then bought a cheep table saw. It would work but the fence was hard to setup, and it was underpowered. I up-graded to a better table saw... i would love to have a really good track saw, but I haven't broken down and bought one yet. I make do with my battery powered circle saws and my 25 year old cutting guide.