I can see why you would want to pull the body for a job like that, having a 2018 f150 eco boost myself ,that was very educational ,thanks guys well done!
I did an engine and transmission swap in my 2001 SuperCrew. Pulling the body off was definitely the way to go. The body bolts on the 10th Gen are pulled from the inside of the cab, but even with that added inconvenience it's the way to go for serious work. Plus it gies you the space to do additional cleaning and painting on the frame and suspension.
My dad has a 2014 Ecoboost and i have a 2010 Silverado. Chevy is definitely easier to work on, but not by much LOL . Gone are the good ol days when you and a buddy could swap a motor in your pickup in your front yard on a Saturday afternoon.
Definitely tech choice, myself working at a ford dealer I started pulling cabs for timing jobs and removal of engines on these f150s, after doing a few started loving having all the room and putting less strain on my back, either way great video 👍🏻
I have a question for you. When these motors are replacing a motor are they put back together well? I have an ‘18 that has a relatively bad tap and my dealership has offered to try and get a new motor.. my concern is that although the motor will be new will the having all that work haunt me down the road. I appreciate your thoughts. All warranty work. They don’t want to dig in any deeper to try and diagnose the problem. I’m not sure why. I assume it just cheaper to replace it.
Great video. Just did a motor job in a 2018 F150 2.7L twin turbo. Took bout 2hrs to pull cab (1st time doin it). Was not bad at all, no issues. Got a re-man motor from Ford. We did the turbo's 2 months ago, and then the belt broke the drives the oil pump. Crazy design, but did have 250k miles on it with lots of sludge. Found lots of metal in the intercooler replaced that as well. Got done , test drove truck, really weird noise. Found the new motor from Ford had reversed the PCV valve with the breather. So the PCV was on the L/S valve cover and breather was on the R/S valve cover. Straight vacuum going to the crankcase!!!! Called Ford and let them know, didn't seem to care. Anyway your video's are awesome. BTW I've never seen an engine with so much "stuff" bolted to it as the 2.7L ecoboost. WOW
I remember I used to do this like crazy... the 3 valves had bad injectors in 2006 (If I remember correctly) after Ford switched the vendor for the injectors... These ones would stick open and shrink rods on startup. I ended up replacing short blocks as the repair, and eventually had it down to a 9-10 hour job because the cab/body would come off in about 50 minutes to an hour, depending on the configuration.
With regards to not scratching the truck body on the truck bed during cab off procedures, once the body is a couple inches off the frame, I like to roll the chassis back a couple of inches to provide more clearance so there is no chance for contact.
Always pretty cool to see the cab off, I work for a diesel shop, and the mid 2000 6.0l , the 6.4l and the 6.7l, if a head or turbo, even fuel pump, the cab must come off, and a engine change of course. We have 6.7l with the cab of getting a engine change.
This was really cool to see! Appreciate you sharing this procedure. Everything is much more accessible and also improves the quality of the repair. Be safe and well!
There was a channel that the guy worked mainly on diesels. He would do the same thing and remove the bodies. Said it was 10 times easier to work on the engines. He was able to remove the bodies sometimes in like 2 hours. That's how many times he removed the bodies and got good at knowing all the points he had to work on to remove them. If I remember correctly they were mostly Fords he worked on. The only thing that would mess him up was the aftermarket stuff too. I think your son is doing a great job learning from you!! You're doing a great job showing him your expertise!! Now please move to New Jersey so you can work on my Ford truck lol!!
Maybe DieselTechRon, he was awesome. Unfortunately he was killed in a car crash in 2016, he was not at fault. I believe there are still videos on TH-cam.
I appreciate what you are doing. It just reinforces my opinion on keeping my 92 Flareside. Mine has 300,000 and counting. Not 200,000 and going through this.
Friend of mine just bought a 1234y a/c machine from snap on, $17000. It does 134 also. Traded in their year old machine and got full price that they payed last year. Only the second shop on our side of town to have one. The other shop gets $500 for vacuum and charge. $70 a pound is his price for Freon. I understand why you’re working around the compressor.
Its not necessary to work around the compressor just because it has yf. The first thing you do on most big jobs like this if evacuate the system. AC lines run all around the engine compartment. The receiver/drier, expansion valve, condenser, etc..., are all under the hood, as well. You have to evacuate the system for any of those parts. Its a closed system that holds pressure. That said, its not an issue on this particular job. If the ac compressor is still bolted to the motor, and the body is up on a lift, its already been done. You can't remove the body without breaching the system at some point.
I recently did a 2016 with out removing cab, really wasn't that bad and not much different then pulling a 5.4, gotta take the intake off but with doing that none of the bellhousing bolts were even difficult or tricky to get too
I'm anxious to find out if the all aluminum pan will fit. Great video. BMW started using plastic oil pans and I've changed out of few of them for an all aluminum one because the plastic ones leak.
I find it hard to believe that ford engineers or BMW engineers didn’t know that would happen. I mean I feel like that was common sense they should have known it would leak
I have done a long block replacement on this engine before from a plastic oil pan to the aluminum oil pan. There was a service bulletin to replace the transmission oil cooler lines with an updated set and modify the wire harness to fit the new oil pan. It was really simple to do, especially cab off.
Something I just found out if you dont have that whiz bang parking brake tool, there are cut outs on either side of the capture sleeve you can work a flat head screwdriver into to work that captured end out.
So, this past Tuesday I was at Star Ford/Lincoln in Glendale CA getting my 2019 Lincoln Nautilus serviced. The service department was packed with cars and since I already had an appointment and was driving a Lincoln the service tech came right out and took my car for servicing. I guess age and status, whatever that is, has it advantages. When I was leaving about an hour or so later, I had to leave via the service department which was packed with cars getting repaired and when I looked to my right what do I see but a Ford F series with It’s body lifted and chassis on the ground getting it engine replaced. The same way that Brian was doing in this video. They must be watching your videos. Wish I stopped and got a picture.
Funny thing, it is easier to remove body mount bolts than you think unless the frame is severely rusted. Disconnect the hoses, tubes and wires and you got instant access to the engine. The downside is you need a hoist. The other way is to take the front end apart and may require more parts and fasteners to be removed.
I've seen posts online where people say pulling body is the way to go for a timing job too. I mean I did a 2012 a couple years ago and I just did it bent over the grill and it was a terrible job to do that way.
Hell yeah. New tucks are way too high as well as interest rates. Also in Texas insurance rates are ridiculous! My 2013 went up $30 a month supposedly because claims in Texas are high. I told my agent that my truck is 10 years old and should be getting cheaper not higher.
I had an 18 f150 super crew with a 5.0 that consumed 2.75 quarts of oil every 5,000 miles. After almost a year Ford agreed to replace the engine at 50,000 miles. Our dealership had it for 10 weeks to do the swap, 3 days after getting it back from the dealership my wife was doing 70 mph down the highway and the steering totally locked up. The truck left the hwy and struck a huge tree totaling the truck. Ford said they sent out an investigator to the tow yard and said they didn't see anything wrong with the steering other than what the accident caused. I will never buy a new Ford again.
My $50,000 fatory ordered 2019 Transit had a grinding steering noises right from the factory. Local Ford service department wanted my only work vehicle for 3-4 weeks to do this and replace the entire steering system! I told them thats nut and couldn't afford to be without a work vehicle that long. They wouldn't offer a loaner either. 4 years and 35K miles later, its still running and making the same grinding noise🤷♂️
I just did a 3.5 EcoBoost engine swap with the body on on my F-150 in the back of a storage facility lot on jack stands. Its the first engine I have ever pulled and installed in my life. And I dont hang around shops. Easy to do. Editing video. Will release in June.
People that have never lifted a body off or dropped an engine and transmission out the bottom of a vehicle think that it’s like the 8th wonder of the world or just absolutely crazy to do it like that but for professionals honestly it’s faster. Like I do a lot of gmc Acadia timing, engine and transmission jobs and I drop it all down out the bottom and I can do this in 45 minutes then I can sit on a chair and do the job with a ton of room. I can have the job done before someone doing it in the car can even get the timing cover off. Same thing with Subaru head gaskets I can have the engine out in less then an hour and on an engine stand and then you actually don’t even need to take as much apart you can leave the intake and everything on the engine just un bolt heads and intake from heads
Some of the most brutally painful engine work I ever did was on a 7.4L 3/4 ton 1988 Suburban. Horrific back pain. Those big iron heads weighed a lot, and I was in a bent over position, due to the height of the truck, the entire time. Just one, in a line of vehicles, that made me swear off of GM, long ago.
Hey! You make some great videos! I have a quick question: what is the part number for the one piece aluminum oil pan? I have a 2017 XLT 3.5L EB w/ the same leaking plastic pan and would like to switch it out for the aluminum pan. Thank you in advance!
I know guys who pull the cooling pack for phaser jobs but for long block replacement, I much prefer cab off if I can. My shop has some in-ground lifts so can’t cab off with those.
Thanks for another educational video. So along the manufacturers warranty line. I have 500 miles on my 04 Ford 5.4 3v factory rebuilt engine swap. Decision to swap at 200k in lieu timing job, roller followers ect was based on being educated here. Long story short. I was bummed out at the uncreating to see 5-20 on the oil fill cap. Motor has 3 yrs unlimited miles warranty w service documentation required. I was expecting to see 5-30 on the cap because Ford installed all the "latest and greatest" parts for the 5 4 3. Issue now is if I run 5-30 it will void my warranty. Bought it new in 04, not in a position to test FMC warranty. I did grow up in Dearborn, Mi. and used to crawl thru the fence and swim in the lake on the property until security showed up then run like hell😅
@@gregbaehring1656 I feel yah. I’m a younger guy (24 years old) so laying over the engine bay isn’t an issue but the older guys don’t bother with doing those kinds of jobs. I’ll always get at least 1 phaser job a month from one of the senior techs since he’s got a bad back. But yea, those coworkers that were removing the cab realized it was still more work than just doing it over the engine bay and it wasn’t any faster. So they stopped doing it that way.
This makes me appreciate my mid-90's Ranger with a 2.3 and a 5 speed. Along with the 300 straight 6. Those are the best engines Ford ever produced. IMHO
I found a 2013 ford focus with a full tank of gas at the auction lol it was listed as mechanic damage. Thanks for you video!!!! Lol I saved thousands like 5,000
I have pulled mine off my 2004 Super duty a couple of times. The trucks are designed to have the bodies pulled for major repair or replacement. Its really not that to do. Nice job teaching he kid.
When the bean counters get control over quality control, its a lose/lose when plastic gets involved to save a couple of bucks. After seeing this, I will never complain about my 5.4 again.
YO - I could use a small amount of advice - I performed a cab off on my truck 2013 F150 3.5 ecoboost. I absolutely ws careful on all of the detachments and clearance while removing and placing, but since I put it all back together, I have many codes. I had NO codes to start with, just a HOWLING torque COnverter. Since the cab was off I did the timing set, and both pumps, all the seals. The issue is that I have Advance trac error, downhill assist error, BCM comm issues, ABS comm issues, Power Steering comm issues, inlet air temp high range. I performed the fluid fill of the trans multiple times so the fluid should be gtg, the engine runs fine, except when the errors kick off. I pulled every plug that was involved, cleaned with QE Electrical Parts cleaner, then applied dilectric grease. All connections clicked and no pins are bent. I cannot see how so many systems are messed up. Do I need to clear the ECM with the grounded jumper method to reset things? Im a tad reserved about that reset without guidance, as the situation is already shight. I cleaned every sensor for the turbos and intake. I havent checked or changed the wheel speed sensors yet, nor made sure the transfer case was perfectly filled. Can I get some ideas? Love the channel, wouldnt have dome the timing set without you. ALSO the small chain tensioners and guides werent in the parts list. Thanks for everything,.
Who is the manufacture for the new engine? I have to have reman put into my 2013 f150 3.5 ecoboost, it has 115000 miles with changing the oil every 4000 miles with valoline full syntheic oil. It still runs great and lots of power. The dealer found metal glitter in the engine oil.
Hey body great video . Question on 2019 raptor I will do the timing chain and phaser based on your experience wich is best for me take the front off or light the cabin
Smart owner if you going to change the engine. It makes sense to change all hoses turbos and essential accessories. Then you won’t have any problems. Don’t forget to transmission, differential, transfer case, brake flushes.
I love that you are going to CLEAN things after the engine is out. That was my biggest disappointment with the lincoln dealer that replaced my 2013 5.0 engine. Then didn't clean anything on the frame. If would have taken very little effort to roll the body out of the shop and pressure wash the exposed frame so its at least a bit cleaner going back together.
You don’t want to roll the frame out of position too much If you do then it’s going to be a lot more work lining up the body mounts. If the mounts are off center to the right or left then you’re in even more trouble.
They do repairs, not restorations. Never have a new engine installed. They will use all the old hoses, old turbos, old motor mounts etc. etc. Makuloco is doing a restoration!
@kurthoush9945 true, but when I had the Lincoln dealer put my new engine in, I gave them all the parts too. All new hoses, lines, fasteners, sensors. anything that could be a wear part.
What would be a good method of lifting the body if you don't have a lift? I'm planning to do a body off frame restore and fix rusty rockers and subframe connectors on the cab of my Explorer along with rust proofing the chasis and frame.
That was bada$$! Look at all the things you can get to that’s usually such pain to get at. I could somewhat see why someone would do it for a timing job, not sure which would be the most work since I’ve never pulled a body off.
Solid work... side note - Thanks for pointing it out but it's a shame 1234yf refrigerant is so expensive that just that alone is a good reason to lift the body, unless you have a recovery and recharge system!
Great video! However, I would highly recommend removing that tool box out from under the air handler.. Condensate leak will inevitably happen on a weekend off hours and just dump condensate all over that box. Just some advice from an HVAC tech.
Unfortunately looks like I have to do this to my 2018 3.5EB. I have access to a shop with lift and basic tools. I’m pretty mechanically inclined, but have never took a cab off or pulled an engine like this before. Dealer wants over $7k in labor and is backed up for months. Should I attempt this? Any tips or suggestions for someone who has never done this? Any tool’s recommended? Thanks.
I'm about to do this to a 2016 2.7EB. Did you have tackle this job? It does look to hard. My best recommendation would be to get the Ford Service Manual. It will walk you through everything. Just take your time and know it's going to take much more time than you think.
Do you thing you could do this with the MaxJax 2-post lift? Do you think the MaxJax would give you enough clearance to R&R the exhaust manifolds/turbos and properly fix/repair Turbo coolant lines that go to the back of that engine? Or is it simply easier to do that job via the wheel well?
I've never been able to get a fuse out with the supplied puller on any brand car 😅😅😅. I just go straight to needle nose pliers. The 15 amp fuse was probably missing because the littlest thing can make cig lighters blow a fuse and it was already used for such.
I looked online every night for 2 weeks until I found an f150 with the 5.0 liter v-8 and bought it. Screw those ecoboost v-6 turds. Real men want a v-8. My truck sounds like a muscle car , not a shop vac. Lol 😂
Back in the day you just had to remove the hood on engine swaps. These daze, take the radiator cap off and drive a New truck underneath it.
Then make sure you change the radiator cap soon!
Ain’t that the truth
Alex seems like a great apprentice, very vigilant.
Lota work to remove the body, but WOW! SO much easier to work on or replace the engine. Great video Brian!
That's how you know your channel is solid. When you don't have to apologize for common bodily functions or edit them out :P
Lol came outta nowhere.
@@FordTechMakuloco could have been worse. Could have come out the other end. I speak from experience
😂 yeah... he could be taking a shxt with door open ,,yelling "keep raising it"
@@FordTechMakuloco What is the recommended service intervals for cleaning those ecoboost intake valves?
@@happywrenching33 300K
I can see why you would want to pull the body for a job like that, having a 2018 f150 eco boost myself ,that was very educational ,thanks guys well done!
I did an engine and transmission swap in my 2001 SuperCrew. Pulling the body off was definitely the way to go. The body bolts on the 10th Gen are pulled from the inside of the cab, but even with that added inconvenience it's the way to go for serious work. Plus it gies you the space to do additional cleaning and painting on the frame and suspension.
Got rid of my f150 but still watch these videos, very informative !! 👍🏽
My dad has a 2014 Ecoboost and i have a 2010 Silverado. Chevy is definitely easier to work on, but not by much LOL . Gone are the good ol days when you and a buddy could swap a motor in your pickup in your front yard on a Saturday afternoon.
Definitely tech choice, myself working at a ford dealer I started pulling cabs for timing jobs and removal of engines on these f150s, after doing a few started loving having all the room and putting less strain on my back, either way great video 👍🏻
Are you properly compensated for those jobs?
@@peted5217 you know the answer. It’s a car dealer not a private jet service.
The video creator mentions that ford has guides/lists for removing the cab. Is there a place a "civilian" can get access to those?
I have a question for you. When these motors are replacing a motor are they put back together well? I have an ‘18 that has a relatively bad tap and my dealership has offered to try and get a new motor.. my concern is that although the motor will be new will the having all that work haunt me down the road. I appreciate your thoughts. All warranty work. They don’t want to dig in any deeper to try and diagnose the problem. I’m not sure why. I assume it just cheaper to replace it.
Cool, Thanks for the video
It's nice to see your son working with you now..my boy is 16 now and works with me and it's a great feeling..makes a guy proud..
Great video. Just did a motor job in a 2018 F150 2.7L twin turbo. Took bout 2hrs to pull cab (1st time doin it). Was not bad at all, no issues. Got a re-man motor from Ford. We did the turbo's 2 months ago, and then the belt broke the drives the oil pump. Crazy design, but did have 250k miles on it with lots of sludge. Found lots of metal in the intercooler replaced that as well. Got done , test drove truck, really weird noise. Found the new motor from Ford had reversed the PCV valve with the breather. So the PCV was on the L/S valve cover and breather was on the R/S valve cover. Straight vacuum going to the crankcase!!!! Called Ford and let them know, didn't seem to care. Anyway your video's are awesome. BTW I've never seen an engine with so much "stuff" bolted to it as the 2.7L ecoboost. WOW
thats crazy.the best advertisement for an 1985 f250 ive ever seen.
I'm liking my 92 Flareside this much more.
Plus the look on the customer's face and the crowd it draws is priceless. I've done them both ways and like pulling the cab too.
It's officially over for a common working man to own and operate a new truck when a simple set of hoses run for $1600
That's why you get the 5.0 lol
Dude it had $400,000 miles on it I’m sure it beats the cost of a new truck lol
I remember cars and pick-up trucks that I could climb into the engine compartment and work away!Not so now!!! CHEERS from HERE!!!
Awesome job as always!!! Your son is learning from the best!!!
I use to work at a ford dealership, and see this for the first time was so cool.
Very cool to see you teaching a younger generation of techs.
I remember I used to do this like crazy... the 3 valves had bad injectors in 2006 (If I remember correctly) after Ford switched the vendor for the injectors... These ones would stick open and shrink rods on startup. I ended up replacing short blocks as the repair, and eventually had it down to a 9-10 hour job because the cab/body would come off in about 50 minutes to an hour, depending on the configuration.
I hope you’re going to do a second part to this video. I’m loving it.
Never mind you say it as the video continues.
Thank you sir
This is another great reason why I'm KEEPING MY '95 F250 5.8l. I'm going to drive it into the ground (so to speak).
Would love to see more of what you are going to do taking the old engine out and replacing with the new one.....
Fords are pure garbage,,,! Just pure cold hard fact,,,!
These designers never swapped an engine in a dirt driveway on a Saturday afternoon and it shows!
I know thats right!!!
One of the best ever !
Enjoyed your presentation so much, MotorTrend is truly loosing out !
With regards to not scratching the truck body on the truck bed during cab off procedures, once the body is a couple inches off the frame, I like to roll the chassis back a couple of inches to provide more clearance so there is no chance for contact.
Always pretty cool to see the cab off, I work for a diesel shop, and the mid 2000 6.0l , the 6.4l and the 6.7l, if a head
or turbo, even fuel pump, the cab must come off, and a engine change of course. We have 6.7l with the cab of
getting a engine change.
I’ve did a lot of engine swaps on all the above without pulling the cab. It can be done
I'm also interested if the all aluminum pan works out okay! Great work!👍
This was really cool to see! Appreciate you sharing this procedure. Everything is much more accessible and also improves the quality of the repair. Be safe and well!
There was a channel that the guy worked mainly on diesels. He would do the same thing and remove the bodies. Said it was 10 times easier to work on the engines. He was able to remove the bodies sometimes in like 2 hours. That's how many times he removed the bodies and got good at knowing all the points he had to work on to remove them. If I remember correctly they were mostly Fords he worked on. The only thing that would mess him up was the aftermarket stuff too. I think your son is doing a great job learning from you!! You're doing a great job showing him your expertise!! Now please move to New Jersey so you can work on my Ford truck lol!!
Think your talking about Powerstroke tech talk with A-Rod
I don't think that's his son!
Maybe DieselTechRon, he was awesome. Unfortunately he was killed in a car crash in 2016, he was not at fault. I believe there are still videos on TH-cam.
I appreciate what you are doing.
It just reinforces my opinion on keeping my 92 Flareside.
Mine has 300,000 and counting.
Not 200,000 and going through this.
That was cool to see. Never seen the body removal process. Great work sir keep it up.
Hey Brain and Alex great work that’s why I hate to miss any of your videos peace n love
Nice job kid!!! You have the BEST FOR THE JOB HAS A TEACHER! Take advantage of everything dad has to teach. Great Team!!
Friend of mine just bought a 1234y a/c machine from snap on, $17000. It does 134 also. Traded in their year old machine and got full price that they payed last year. Only the second shop on our side of town to have one. The other shop gets $500 for vacuum and charge. $70 a pound is his price for Freon. I understand why you’re working around the compressor.
Its not necessary to work around the compressor just because it has yf. The first thing you do on most big jobs like this if evacuate the system. AC lines run all around the engine compartment. The receiver/drier, expansion valve, condenser, etc..., are all under the hood, as well. You have to evacuate the system for any of those parts. Its a closed system that holds pressure.
That said, its not an issue on this particular job. If the ac compressor is still bolted to the motor, and the body is up on a lift, its already been done. You can't remove the body without breaching the system at some point.
I recently did a 2016 with out removing cab, really wasn't that bad and not much different then pulling a 5.4, gotta take the intake off but with doing that none of the bellhousing bolts were even difficult or tricky to get too
I'm anxious to find out if the all aluminum pan will fit. Great video. BMW started using plastic oil pans and I've changed out of few of them for an all aluminum one because the plastic ones leak.
I find it hard to believe that ford engineers or BMW engineers didn’t know that would happen. I mean I feel like that was common sense they should have known it would leak
@@timschultes6467 yea cause plastic and metal expand at different rates and then Ford will use silicone with plastic 🙄
I have done a long block replacement on this engine before from a plastic oil pan to the aluminum oil pan. There was a service bulletin to replace the transmission oil cooler lines with an updated set and modify the wire harness to fit the new oil pan. It was really simple to do, especially cab off.
@@ghostwrench2292 yea usually when I order a new engine it’ll come with an aluminum pan as it should have been from the beginning 😂
Definitely waiting to see the fitment!
Something I just found out if you dont have that whiz bang parking brake tool, there are cut outs on either side of the capture sleeve you can work a flat head screwdriver into to work that captured end out.
So, this past Tuesday I was at Star Ford/Lincoln in Glendale CA getting my 2019 Lincoln Nautilus serviced. The service department was packed with cars and since I already had an appointment and was driving a Lincoln the service tech came right out and took my car for servicing. I guess age and status, whatever that is, has it advantages. When I was leaving about an hour or so later, I had to leave via the service department which was packed with cars getting repaired and when I looked to my right what do I see but a Ford F series with It’s body lifted and chassis on the ground getting it engine replaced. The same way that Brian was doing in this video. They must be watching your videos. Wish I stopped and got a picture.
You impress me more with every video,you have a great skill set. Thanks for sharing.
Funny thing, it is easier to remove body mount bolts than you think unless the frame is severely rusted. Disconnect the hoses, tubes and wires and you got instant access to the engine. The downside is you need a hoist. The other way is to take the front end apart and may require more parts and fasteners to be removed.
I've seen posts online where people say pulling body is the way to go for a timing job too. I mean I did a 2012 a couple years ago and I just did it bent over the grill and it was a terrible job to do that way.
All that cost and it's still cheaper than a new truck. Though I am surprised they didn't just trade it in when it started having issues
Like you said, it’s a lot cheaper than a new truck. Especially when the truck is so well taken care of.
Hell yeah. New tucks are way too high as well as interest rates. Also in Texas insurance rates are ridiculous! My 2013 went up $30 a month supposedly because claims in Texas are high. I told my agent that my truck is 10 years old and should be getting cheaper not higher.
I had an 18 f150 super crew with a 5.0 that consumed 2.75 quarts of oil every 5,000 miles. After almost a year Ford agreed to replace the engine at 50,000 miles. Our dealership had it for 10 weeks to do the swap, 3 days after getting it back from the dealership my wife was doing 70 mph down the highway and the steering totally locked up. The truck left the hwy and struck a huge tree totaling the truck. Ford said they sent out an investigator to the tow yard and said they didn't see anything wrong with the steering other than what the accident caused. I will never buy a new Ford again.
good reason to have a camera facing the driver.
200k miles isn't enough for what these vehicles cost. Should get at least 300k
Agree brother. My 2012 5.0 is around 215K with just basic oil changes. Hope I can hit 300K
My $50,000 fatory ordered 2019 Transit had a grinding steering noises right from the factory. Local Ford service department wanted my only work vehicle for 3-4 weeks to do this and replace the entire steering system!
I told them thats nut and couldn't afford to be without a work vehicle that long. They wouldn't offer a loaner either. 4 years and 35K miles later, its still running and making the same grinding noise🤷♂️
I just did a 3.5 EcoBoost engine swap with the body on on my F-150 in the back of a storage facility lot on jack stands.
Its the first engine I have ever pulled and installed in my life. And I dont hang around shops.
Easy to do.
Editing video. Will release in June.
Still planning to release the video? Cheers
Please show engine removal and install of new engine, great video!
People that have never lifted a body off or dropped an engine and transmission out the bottom of a vehicle think that it’s like the 8th wonder of the world or just absolutely crazy to do it like that but for professionals honestly it’s faster. Like I do a lot of gmc Acadia timing, engine and transmission jobs and I drop it all down out the bottom and I can do this in 45 minutes then I can sit on a chair and do the job with a ton of room. I can have the job done before someone doing it in the car can even get the timing cover off. Same thing with Subaru head gaskets I can have the engine out in less then an hour and on an engine stand and then you actually don’t even need to take as much apart you can leave the intake and everything on the engine just un bolt heads and intake from heads
Really great video Brian. Well done
Can you replace those 2 piece oil pans with the aluminum one without pulling the motor?
Love to see the rest of the job if possible, at minimum the new engine start and overview! Thanks for the good content
I wanna see that, too!
Well done Brian, that’s a lot of stuff to keep track of.
So you did the updated oil pump on the new motor! the melling oil pump? Are there any updates to the turbos a better flow a better cooling?
There is no updated hi volume oil pump available from Melling.
Your able to see it all and have no mistaakes bud youll be fine get it done my brother
Really enjoyed this video! Can’t wait for more of it!
Hello, great video. Can we get a parts list added to the video description?
s
Some of the most brutally painful engine work I ever did was on a 7.4L 3/4 ton 1988 Suburban. Horrific back pain. Those big iron heads weighed a lot, and I was in a bent over position, due to the height of the truck, the entire time. Just one, in a line of vehicles, that made me swear off of GM, long ago.
They should just start making pickups like big rigs,noise of truck one piece of fiberglass, like the GMC TopKick
Hey! You make some great videos!
I have a quick question: what is the part number for the one piece aluminum oil pan?
I have a 2017 XLT 3.5L EB w/ the same leaking plastic pan and would like to switch it out for the aluminum pan.
Thank you in advance!
Keep us updated. I like these types of videos
Just did this job just pulling off the cooling module, aka entire core support and grille. Not too bad, paid 22 hours because 4x4
I know guys who pull the cooling pack for phaser jobs but for long block replacement, I much prefer cab off if I can. My shop has some in-ground lifts so can’t cab off with those.
Can you post an update regarding the new designed engine, if you had an issue with that screw bolt location? Thanks.
Part 2 tomorrow
@@FordTechMakuloco Waiting patiently 😉
Im not saying not pull the cab off the truck, but it's super easy to pull the front clips off these body styles, verses the older ones
Thanks for another educational video. So along the manufacturers warranty line. I have 500 miles on my 04 Ford 5.4 3v factory rebuilt engine swap. Decision to swap at 200k in lieu timing job, roller followers ect was based on being educated here.
Long story short. I was bummed out at the uncreating to see 5-20 on the oil fill cap. Motor has 3 yrs unlimited miles warranty w service documentation required. I was expecting to see 5-30 on the cap because Ford installed all the "latest and greatest" parts for the 5 4 3. Issue now is if I run 5-30 it will void my warranty. Bought it new in 04, not in a position to test FMC warranty. I did grow up in Dearborn, Mi. and used to crawl thru the fence and swim in the lake on the property until security showed up then run like hell😅
Some of my coworkers at my shop got carried away when they learned how to pull the cabs easily. They’d pull the cab just to do phasers at one point. 😂
That makes sense, ergonomics alleviate potential back injuries .
@@gregbaehring1656 I feel yah. I’m a younger guy (24 years old) so laying over the engine bay isn’t an issue but the older guys don’t bother with doing those kinds of jobs. I’ll always get at least 1 phaser job a month from one of the senior techs since he’s got a bad back.
But yea, those coworkers that were removing the cab realized it was still more work than just doing it over the engine bay and it wasn’t any faster. So they stopped doing it that way.
I'm a 53 year old tech. Trust me, do everything you can to save your back, neck and shoulders . Arthritis and crushed disc suck 🏀🏈 ⚾'s
@@mikes9117 63 year old retired tech here. My back is toast
@@deansapp4635 34 year old tech….same lol
Seen a 3.0 duramax with cab off for some belt that's on back of the engine.
This makes me appreciate my mid-90's Ranger with a 2.3 and a 5 speed. Along with the 300 straight 6. Those are the best engines Ford ever produced. IMHO
makes having to take the top part of the intake off to change half of the plugs seem like child's play.
@@vector6977 I have never pulled the intake to put plugs and wires on an EFI 2.3 ;) Been doing this for 36 years now. I know a shortcut.
I found a 2013 ford focus with a full tank of gas at the auction lol it was listed as mechanic damage. Thanks for you video!!!! Lol I saved thousands like 5,000
I have pulled mine off my 2004 Super duty a couple of times. The trucks are designed to have the bodies pulled for major repair or replacement. Its really not that to do. Nice job teaching he kid.
When the bean counters get control over quality control, its a lose/lose when plastic gets involved to save a couple of bucks. After seeing this, I will never complain about my 5.4 again.
Thanks for the video Brian what a great lesson for your Son ❤️❤️👍 it, well done. Take care of yourself and family and be Blessed ❤️❤️.
YO - I could use a small amount of advice - I performed a cab off on my truck 2013 F150 3.5 ecoboost. I absolutely ws careful on all of the detachments and clearance while removing and placing, but since I put it all back together, I have many codes. I had NO codes to start with, just a HOWLING torque COnverter. Since the cab was off I did the timing set, and both pumps, all the seals. The issue is that I have Advance trac error, downhill assist error, BCM comm issues, ABS comm issues, Power Steering comm issues, inlet air temp high range. I performed the fluid fill of the trans multiple times so the fluid should be gtg, the engine runs fine, except when the errors kick off. I pulled every plug that was involved, cleaned with QE Electrical Parts cleaner, then applied dilectric grease. All connections clicked and no pins are bent. I cannot see how so many systems are messed up. Do I need to clear the ECM with the grounded jumper method to reset things? Im a tad reserved about that reset without guidance, as the situation is already shight. I cleaned every sensor for the turbos and intake. I havent checked or changed the wheel speed sensors yet, nor made sure the transfer case was perfectly filled. Can I get some ideas? Love the channel, wouldnt have dome the timing set without you. ALSO the small chain tensioners and guides werent in the parts list. Thanks for everything,.
Who is the manufacture for the new engine? I have to have reman put into my 2013 f150 3.5 ecoboost, it has 115000 miles with changing the oil every 4000 miles with valoline full syntheic oil. It still runs great and lots of power. The dealer found metal glitter in the engine oil.
I have 2017 3.5 ecoboost and I put aluminum pan on with new oil pickup tube due to failed dealer repair. It is not easy but works ok.
🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥,, PLEASE USE A LASER POINTER, it would really help me and others to focus on what your pointing out.
Hey body great video .
Question on 2019 raptor I will do the timing chain and phaser based on your experience wich is best for me take the front off or light the cabin
8:54 👍 Lol! And you’re technical info is great too!
Smart owner if you going to change the engine. It makes sense to change all hoses turbos and essential accessories. Then you won’t have any problems. Don’t forget to transmission, differential, transfer case, brake flushes.
Your boy has a great teacher
I love that you are going to CLEAN things after the engine is out. That was my biggest disappointment with the lincoln dealer that replaced my 2013 5.0 engine. Then didn't clean anything on the frame. If would have taken very little effort to roll the body out of the shop and pressure wash the exposed frame so its at least a bit cleaner going back together.
You don’t want to roll the frame out of position too much If you do then it’s going to be a lot more work lining up the body mounts. If the mounts are off center to the right or left then you’re in even more trouble.
What D said also if you have everything electrical unplugged and start pressure washing it you’re going to have a bad day.
They do repairs, not restorations. Never have a new engine installed. They will use all the old hoses, old turbos, old motor mounts etc. etc. Makuloco is doing a restoration!
@kurthoush9945 true, but when I had the Lincoln dealer put my new engine in, I gave them all the parts too. All new hoses, lines, fasteners, sensors. anything that could be a wear part.
very interesting, but I can see how it makes removal/replacement of the engine more straightforward.
What would be a good method of lifting the body if you don't have a lift? I'm planning to do a body off frame restore and fix rusty rockers and subframe connectors on the cab of my Explorer along with rust proofing the chasis and frame.
A hot air balloon? JK....
I would really like to see you do the entire install as well !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Nice Job Alex 😀😮😮😀 I’ve Done a Few Cadillac Northstar Engines In My Day Not a Lot of Room too Work
DD13 also has the poly oil pans which the mounting bolt insulators fail the pan leaks.
Very interesting guys, thanks!
Any ideas what the cab weighs there up on the hoist??
That was bada$$! Look at all the things you can get to that’s usually such pain to get at. I could somewhat see why someone would do it for a timing job, not sure which would be the most work since I’ve never pulled a body off.
You can run R134a in place of R1234. They are 100% compatible. R134 actually runs a little cooler. You jslust bed an adapter
Solid work... side note - Thanks for pointing it out but it's a shame 1234yf refrigerant is so expensive that just that alone is a good reason to lift the body, unless you have a recovery and recharge system!
HUGE EFFORT
Great video! However, I would highly recommend removing that tool box out from under the air handler.. Condensate leak will inevitably happen on a weekend off hours and just dump condensate all over that box. Just some advice from an HVAC tech.
The lid acts like a roof
Unfortunately looks like I have to do this to my 2018 3.5EB. I have access to a shop with lift and basic tools. I’m pretty mechanically inclined, but have never took a cab off or pulled an engine like this before. Dealer wants over $7k in labor and is backed up for months. Should I attempt this? Any tips or suggestions for someone who has never done this? Any tool’s recommended? Thanks.
How many miles you at?
I'm about to do this to a 2016 2.7EB. Did you have tackle this job? It does look to hard. My best recommendation would be to get the Ford Service Manual. It will walk you through everything. Just take your time and know it's going to take much more time than you think.
Do you thing you could do this with the MaxJax 2-post lift? Do you think the MaxJax would give you enough clearance to R&R the exhaust manifolds/turbos and properly fix/repair Turbo coolant lines that go to the back of that engine? Or is it simply easier to do that job via the wheel well?
Talk about Ford Experts!✌🏽☮️
With similar new trucks costing $60k, it makes sense these days to do these types of overhauls.
What about swapping a coyote engine
These Daz (since 2020) an F250 or higher with LS big bore clone 7.3 Godzilla ICE might be the best way to go
What do you look for in auction engines? Which auction did you use? Looking for a 2.7 and would like it to look clean like that
I've never been able to get a fuse out with the supplied puller on any brand car 😅😅😅. I just go straight to needle nose pliers. The 15 amp fuse was probably missing because the littlest thing can make cig lighters blow a fuse and it was already used for such.
I looked online every night for 2 weeks until I found an f150 with the 5.0 liter v-8 and bought it. Screw those ecoboost v-6 turds. Real men want a v-8. My truck sounds like a muscle car , not a shop vac. Lol 😂
If you’ve raced your 5.0 against a 3.5 Ecoboost you know very well the sound of its exhaust since it’s leaving you in its dust! 😂