This is my truck. First off, I want to express my gratitude to those who advised me to contact my insurance company. I followed your advice, and Travelers Insurance paid me $5100 since the issue turned out to be water-related. Huge shout out to Travelers! Now, the general consensus around here is that all this safety equipment is unnecessary. However, for me personally, I find the BLISS system quite enjoyable. Living in the Chicago area means dealing with wide tollways, around 4-5 lanes in each direction, where people speed at 80 MPH. But here's the catch, that same 80 MPH traffic can randomly slow down or even come to a halt. I find checking my blind spot monitor on my mirror much safer than looking completely behind me. I would personally be willing to pay $5000 for that extra safety. If I still lived in southwest Missouri, my place of origin, I might skip this particular feature. Driving is less of an extreme sport there, and a simple fender bender wouldn't turn into a gun fight the way it very well could in the Chicago area. I must say, having Brian as my technician is a true blessing. Just two months ago, the folks at the local Ford dealer (HAWK FORD) told me that my truck needed a new front differential. However, Brian correctly diagnosed it as a front wheel bearing issue. Brian undercharges for his expertise, and FORD dramatically overcharges for taillights.
So BOTH lamps had the water intrusion - are the new ones an improved design or is this just a few rainstorms away from paying this again? Direct replacement seems so risky. I think I'd have you try to dry it out and get it working well enough to trade it in and buy something else with repair costs like that. Sorry you had so much trouble but glad to hear insurance covered most of it.
Another issue with these tail lamps is that they also get stolen. Make sure you make it difficult to remove the lamps. change the 8mm screws to safety torx and make each one a different size. or your paying 5600 all over again
I wouldn't pay 5000 for an entire car even though I can afford a new truck like yours :) Glad you were able to pass the cost onto the insurance though!
I hear you there. Fellow independent tech for the last 18 years now. Drive a carb'd ram with a 5 speed, in perfect shape as my work truck. 97 ram sport 1500 i retrofitted. Kept enough of the wire harness for the o2 sensors and gauges but slapped a carb and a classic distributor on it. I live in a free state.
@@doughurt297905 Taurus as the daily driver. But have a 73 Fleetwood with a 472 and positraction and a 79 sedan DeVille with a 425 in the driveway. Besides the body and trim, completely interchangeable parts as they're both using the 372/425/472/500 Cadillac engine block and th400 trans
I have an 02 sequoia with 245k and runs like a champ.I came across a 351w and a ZF6 speed I plan to put in a bull nose pickup. Def want a truck that is all analog. At least I’ll be able to repair it myself without having to worry about computers.
My truck is 25 years old, the thought of getting something 'modern' is terrifying. Everything in our system today is designed to squeeze the customer dry. He paid more for these taillights then I paid for my whole truck.
I recently rebuilt my transmission on 2000 Silverado for 1700. When dealing with transmission shops never say rebuild it say replace the worn parts. Unfortunately my truck has 311, 563 miles so everything was worn out. In a few years I will probably need an engine, but if I do it now I can get a crate engine installed for 1200. My tires cost 225 for 4 tires can't beat these costs with a stick. Today a scratched up pickup truck with 300k miles is worth 3k, but a repaint, new driver seat, new tinted windshield, tint the other glass, install power windows in a standard truck, $600 white letter tires, front end replaced, rear rebuilt and a new transmission is worth 7k for a 23 year old pickup.
to much uneeded garbage in modern vehicles, all distracting to regular commuters and even drivers. keep it simple cnuts, designing these things for terminators?
I totally agree. I'm even looking into hoarding some donor trucks for spare parts before things get too crazy. I went Cummins diesel and will never look back.
Imagine thinking an authority is going to communicate with another authority that some tiny little consumer has an issue they want them to fix. Total the car and buy something you can pop the hood and fix yourself. Tons of videos breaking down cars simply.
Hundreds of vehicles need to start appearing with this issue for a recall to be ordered. The BLIS module is not a legally-required function. If the water causes the taillight to malfunction, that is a legal issue, however not recall-worthy. I wonder if the water intrusion occurred from the weld of the lamp or the seal on the bracket for the BLIS module. If within the warranty window, a dealer would replace this free of charge. That's why extended warranties are so key on modern vehicles, especially ones with loads of features.
No, it's absolutely ok. Meaning most of the work is already done at development of diagnostics, workplace setup and part procurement. This is how it happens in real sector. It is the total value still being a problem.
@peek5548 you know you kinda contradict yourself here, right? If the labor is expensive, but the sum is small - means work did not take long. Must be good, right? Or would you rather work your a$$ off for a taillight instead of something useful? Now that is "not ok, but you do you" situation here.
That reminds me of the Chrysler Lebaron Convertible and it's electrical nightmares! Back in the day, Chrysler(Much deserved) got lots of flak for their electrical design faults. Ford shouldn't be given a pass as well, there should be no way a tail light could've caused this much damage. That's just not right at all. FordTechMakuloco is a serious lifesaver!
My daughter’s 2016 King Ranch just had this issue. Thank you for sharing information on this! I was able to dry everything out and then ran the sensor and the taillight through our LEM dehydrator at 100 degrees for a few hours to completely dry everything out. Cleaned up the connector pins and added some dielectric grease on all connections and gaskets. I was stunned that it was enough to resolve the issue. I disconnected the battery overnight also hoping to reset everything I could. Everything came back online! I almost cried. What a relief. Automatic running boards, air conditioning fan and buttons, radio controls, side mirror controls, seat memory buttons, driver door front window controls, seat massager, oh and the blind spot monitor. Insane what is so intermangled. It’s basically a modern computer network. If there is ever an EMP event these vehicles are down.
Yes it is a modern computer network in your car, and that is complete nonsense. They went to the moon in 1969 with a lot of Analog computing power. You could virtually beat it with a hammer and it would still work. Now it takes nothing to disrupt Digital Equipment. Just some noise in the power supplies voltage output to the computer can cause a failure.
I have a 2015 king ranch. RH tail light has moisture, blind spot and cross traffic faults. Dealer wants $2k to replace it. I'm going to try something similar to what you've shared here. If that doesn't work maybe buy parts and do the job myself. Some programming required with Forscan. Thanks for sharing!
As a former Ford dealership gas and diesel driveability guy, much respect to you for sharing all that you do. If I had a dollar for every time someone assumed a scan tool “told” a mechanic how to fix a vehicle….. you proved why there’s a difference between a technician and a parts changer.
And this is why all my cars are over 20 years old. As my grandpa used to say that's just more stuff to go wrong. Side note: You've saved me thousands in repairs over the years sir, thanks for doing what you do 👍🏻
Me as well. I see more vehicles less than 5 years old either going up in flames on the side of the road or hooked up to a tow truck heading to a shop/dealership.
I disagree. The problem is old vehicles suck. Theres a line between old and still capable and super affordable, compared to old and worn out. Do you really want to trust 20+ year old airbags to cushion your head and prevent brain injury.
@@censored4christ162 Super affordable? Yeah no.... I'll take my air bagless 91 c1500 and 92 silverado over anything that you consider super affordable thats going to need to be replaced at less than 150k miles....
I worked on diesels, will not trade in my 2003 dodge Cummins. Much less emissions, 3200 rpm diesel. Detroit diesel 6-71 and 8-92's had 2100 max rpms. Million mile engines, we're not uncommon.
That is why you should always look at the cost of the sales package items prior to buying that “high end” vehicle. When I was looking for my new 2017 F-150 I stayed away from the upper level trucks. The fancy light option was $4600. That tells you how much the replacement parts will cost.
The more expensive the parts the more expensive to replace; the more complex the part the more points of failure. There's really no way around this unless you're getting even more expensive parts with better durability and testing along with warranty.
Just price out any electrical light bulb for a modern vehicle/ as compared to the old days. Yes. But they are so much better today. Yes. look at the price and the potential money pit you could wind up in. High tech/ high cost.
As an experienced technician myself, since 1995, I concur this sentiment but, still wager it’s all relative, in the bigger picture of how things tend to be.. take for example, damned near any vehicles made during the 1950’s that offered bells & whistle exotic features like, Wonderbar Auto-Tuner Radio, Autronic Eye auto dimming system, Air Conditioning, Cruise Control, etc., etc.. it’s been somewhat a rare occurrence to even come across these vehicles WITH these options/features but, incredibly rare for ANY of these options/features to STILL BE FUNCTIONAL, as whenever those originally had issues, customers back in the day, most often just ignored getting them fixed, when told how much repairs would cost them then. Big obvious difference tho of course, one could continue operating those vehicles for decades later, without any of those problems affecting the running/driving of the cars… this “integration” factor, seemed to become more seeded in with the auto industry @ 1993-on; gradually becoming what it is these days. I need a PHD to diagnose these modern things! Have considered implementing the word, “Practice” in shop name! 😂🤪
I smashed a tail light on my '09 Pilot (barely 100k miles) and replaced it in 5 min with a $35 complete assembly. I would never buy a new truck. I drive in L.A. and haven't needed ten computers telling me what's in my mirrors.
Yup! Lots of vehicles getting written off at our bodyshop with minor looking damage but due to over complication will go to autowrecker. How is that saving the environment, if that's the road they say we're on? We'll all be riding donkeys again soon 😂
But, new cars are so gentle on the environment. Like the coal powered Teslas that must be grasped by large fossil fueled powered machine claws and plopped into a semi trailer sized aquarium of water for days after they catch on fire. Very practical.
Ford Truck LTD owner:" My truck doesn't start! Can you fix it?" Ford Mechanic: "Absolutely! We just need to change your taillights - that'll be $5600 please." No shade thrown at Brian - he located the fault and provided the fix. It just ridiculous at how expensive it has become to fix these technological terrors. Thanks for the 'enlightening' video good Sir!
@@williamchristenbury1774 : I had a "97 Safari that broke every time I used it. Back in about 2003, the fuel pump went low pressure. No problem. It's inside the gas tank, and was only $842, in a box. I did the labour. The water pump started leaking, followed by the alternator failing, which took the battery with it. I noticed the brakes were making noise. The front rotors wore down to the point where they couldn't be turned, followed by the rear brakes having the fiction material break loose. ( riveted, in '97?)The rear doors leaked. The power windows failed, withing days of each other. The rear heater failed. The front blower failed. Of course the armrest wore out. There were likely other failures too. I had much better luck with a LADA. At least when it broke, you could get to the parts, and they were cheap. Oh, and it was the last GM I'll own.
This is exactly why I took my 2007 Silverado off the road and bought a ‘93 Ram W250, Cummins 5-speed. Wasn’t cheap to buy, but it’s cheap to repair and easy to fix. Might not be the fastest or most comfortable thing out there, but it WORKS. A win-win in my book.👍
@@agger838This! I have an 04 Tahoe. The parts are dirt cheap!! The most expensive part is a new engine for $2500. I also have an 02 Expedition. The parts are also cheap!
@@agger838 To have the transmission built CORRECTLY - as in, will last longer than 100k miles - it cost me almost $5k. To build the rear end correctly - to make that last more than 97k miles - that cost me $1,200. Not what I would call, "cheap" ...
I remember buying parts at reasonable prices with my dad for our cars and it was always a nice little bonding moment for us. Can you guys imagine a kid watching their dad realizing the repair cost is something so unimaginable that the cost is insane and is more than what it costs to work on it. I think where the automotive industry is heading towards is not good at all.
We are already there and deeper than many realise. In the future a car will be written off/junked on previously considered no big deal like windscreen, keys, bumper and computer module etc.
Two things to say 1) Boy, am I ever glad that I retired and don't have to deal with crap like this. 2) Boy am I ever glad that I retired and don't have to deal with stuff like this. I want to buy a new truck, I no longer have the confidence to go out and spend more then what I paid for my house to buy problems like this.
This is why no matter the cost repairs on my old vehicles it's worth fixing. This one repair cost almost as much as the vehicle I've had for the last 8 years. I don't have all these fancy gadgets but I save tons over vehicles like this
100%! My old Ram is ugly, but if I keep it maintained, it will keep running. It will be a treasured antique long after these modern vehicles have been recycled.
@@jamesgizassonever check what those "old" Rams are selling for? My old 87 Power Ram in good condition, others asking about $25k for it. Mine isn't for sale.
Why didn't he buy all the parts from a quality auto dismantler as they would have been about 25% of the price of new??? Okay, the taillight lens would have cost up to 50% of the price of new if they were in perfect condition...
Don't know about this Ford truck but with a lot of cars now electronic parts off another car will not work even if same year, make, model. Friend of mine owns a shop and customer bought a headlight off eBay that worked on the bench but would not work in the car because only the dealer can program the car to accept the new parts and they won't do that unless you bought the parts from them. Because "liability." Edit: I forgot to mention one headlight from the dealer was $3500 and his eBay headlight cost $800.
My '98 Ranger XLT 4.0 supercab with the automatic and AC was under 20k out the door. That included a deluxe color matched cap and some other bits. Wish I had bought two of them and stashed one.
The truck was $68,000. I still have the window sticker. I’ve enjoyed the truck. I can afford the truck. It’s unclear why people are angry at me for driving a F-150. 😂🤷
Last July I had a 2015 F-150 in the shop. The radio was not operating, the climate controls were dead, and the power windows would not operate. Same thing, one of the tail lamps had water in it, killed the communication bus. Ended up being a $3000 repair as well.
You got away light! Get a tube of electrical grease and do every connection you can find/ and then the hard ones you cant see. Then keep your fingers crossed and hope like hell.
People say this all the time, but it's wrong. FRE 407 prohibits subsequent remedial measures from being introduced as evidence of culpability or negligence.
Not a mechanic but I worked for a Ford Dealership and I would deliver parts to shops locally. One day I'm delivering a tail lamp and im looking at the invoice and I couldn't believe just the housing was shy of $1000 dollars for ONE.
@@jamalblack8973my great uncle bought one. Why? I have no earthly clue. $94000. His final vehicle possibly and he went all out. He sold his travel trailer though. He had no clue about diesel dpf and thought DEF was cheap.. 😳
Have seen an invoice for a range rover taillight guard, not the light, just the black plastic fake bars over tge top....$800 aussie dollars in about 1995.
I am now 66 years old, and have been watching tons of car crash videos, and while doing so became shocked at seeing many cars being simply written off due to ridiculous repair costs. What would cost say $100 in my younger days, could be up $10,000 today. Ah yes, I also recall way back when, that you could even purchase a Honda Civic for $2,000 CAD.
$100 from 1963 is worth about $1000 in todays money. So yeah, even accounting for the ~900% price increase due to inflation from then this type of repair would still be 5 1/2 times more expensive than back then.
Back when there were no safety crash standards. Yes all you would need was a new bumper for $100, but you weee in the hospital for a week from injuries sustained in the crash. Today the vehicle takes all the damage and you walk away un injured
The real problem is Ford using an inferior tail lamp that leets rain water in. My 2016 Lariat was having the same issues. I was lucky, my cost was $0. My diagnosis was to unplug the white connector under the truck near the spare tire. All the warnings shut off. You cannot drive it because you have no tail lights with that unplugged. I took off my rear passenger tail lamp, shook all the water out of it, left it in the sun for 12 hours, made sure everything was good and dry. Put back together and works perfectly. I did do something’s to stop the water, but Ford needs better parts. I remember when Quality Was Job 1.
What you just experienced is one of the main reasons so many of my customers are willing to spend so much money keeping there older cars on the road. As far as diagnosing it , you did not just fall into it, you kept it simply and used common sense. For all the scanners ,scopes, special tester I own and use , a little common sense, experience and using the brain has led me to the answer faster then anything else.
I have a one ton diesel Ford. In two different shops, they diagnosed the Allison tranny sensor as "defective" because it was saying the transmission temp was (if I remember right) negative -49°. At the second shop, I had it replaced. There of course were still issues. A third shop in Greencastle PA corrected the world by advising that the negative -49° sensor reading is actually the common code translated to say; OPEN CIRCUIT. And not a faulty sensor errantly reading tranny temperatures at a -49° American mechanics can be all over the place, leading us down a very expensive parts chasing+replacing rabbit hole. Too much guesswork going on at the consumers' expense.
@@williamrobinson6680 I work in parts industry and mechánics just throw parts at vehicles today , order a part that they ( think ) it is and then if new one don't fix it , put that part back in the box , ( to lazy to even clean the part they just hogged up with greasy hands ) and they send it back as a ( new part ) , many times I have to Damage out the part if it can't be cleaned , can't tell you how much a year we damage out over this..
The shared network stuff is crazy to me. A while back I fixed a newer dodge ram that wouldn't start because the TPMS module (mounted behind the front bumper) had failed and was shorting a network line to 12v. I think the critical stuff like ECU, TCU and key module should be on their own network. Your vehicle shouldn't die because an unnecessary module near the exterior was damaged!
That shared network is a good thing, it's easy too use, and diagnose things, in most cases.... the stupid way they design things to fail is what is crazy, they probably knew exactly what will happen, and designed it too fail way after warranty... and probably this same thing will be in their next car too.
Yes it should. It's another Money Maker! If you think $80,000 is all the money Ford wants to make on each Raptor Truck they sell your dreaming. $80,000 is just the start!
I think I will look for a 1995 model year for my next F150. I've had problems with the PATS in my 2010 F150 XLT. Ford is obviously hiring former F35 design engineers to put all of this technology in their vehicles. Unfortunately most of us owners don't have almost unlimited funds to keep our vehicles running like the military spends on the F35. Water getting into a taillight housing is not exactly an unexpected occurrence but obviously the engineers who designed it never thought it could happen.
Won't do any good. Ford won't honor their recalls. December of 2021 and July of 2022 my wife's 2017 Ford Edge had grommet failures on the shift linkage. The recall came out right after I had the same 2nd repair done by a local transmission shop. I had rental car fees, plus the cost of the tranny shop repairs. I spoke with our local Ford dealership about the repairs in October of 2022 and they said, bring in the receipts and will forward them too Ford headquarters, they will reimburse you. This October will be 1 year and I haven't heard 💩💩!! Also, August of last year she had a recall on the flex plate for cracking or breaking. The deadline was March 1st of this year to get it checked. We took it in February 2nd, because the wife said it was making the noise the recall paperwork described? I don't drive her car, unless she points something out. I heard the noise, took it too the same dealership I mentioned above. Their mechanic said that's normal sound coming from the vehicle??? Wtf?? Anyways, I blame myself for not going to another dealer or transmission shop. March 2023, came and went. In April we made a trip down too Cincinnati, Ohio from Michigan and thankfully made it back! The Edge was making such a loud clanking noise, you couldn't hear yourself think. Got home, took it too the same dealership. They wanted $5K to replace the flex plate?? I said, we had it here back in February because it was starting to make a slight noise & you said it was normal. Here I am with your normal broken noise now!! They said, sorry, recall won't cover that. It was just a generous recall they sent out. That's why it had a deadline. I was pissed!! I had it hauled to the transmission shop where I had the grommet fixed. They charged me $1500.00 dollar's. I was pleased with that. They fixed the flex plate, but now the auto start/stop doesn't work anymore. Anyways, Ford doesn't stand behind their vehicles.
@@antcrow7424You really didn't have to pay anyone to do the shifting linkage recall. It only takes a couple of minutes. An oil change is more complicated. Either way, I'll show you how to get some leverage if your dealer is playing games with you. You need to take your vehicle in for something. It doesn't mater what it is. Take it in for an oil change, or complain about a rattle that would be covered under warranty. The main goal is to get the dealer to print a new RO for whatever you take your vehicle in for. Every time a new RO is printed, a survey is automatically triggered with Ford. The dealer can't do anything about it. Sometimes its a phone survey, or email, or whatever. Its the ones where the salesperson is always begging you to give 10's on, if you were happy with how you were treated. You would not believe how serious they take these surveys. Even one bad survey is a really big deal. I've seen them close the entire service department down in the middle of the day, and they gather every employee in a big room, and management starts yelling at everyone. Not every dealer gets treated the same way. For example, if the dealer screws up, Ford can make things more difficult by making the pre approval process on certain jobs more difficult. The point is, there are all kinds of things that go on internally, that the customers are never aware of. These surveys tie into all that. There are 2 levels you can take it. Threating to give a bad survey would have most likely been enough to get your transmission fixed. The next level is more serious. If the dealer tampers with the survey process in order to hide things from Ford, its a big deal. If you don't get a new RO (or any RO) every time you go in, that's a problem. Sometimes they keep the RO's open and use the same number for several visits, or give you better pricing for a high score. Anything like that is survey tampering. The last time I saw someone get caught tampering, it was a 50 thousand dollar fine. There should be enough information in this post for you to come up with something so you don't continue to get screwed over by a dealer. Also, unfortunately all dealers are different. You will not get the same answer at every dealer you go to. Sometimes a dealer will want a certain type of job, where another won't. If you think you are not getting the right answer, try different places. You can take you F150 to any dealership in the country, including a Lincoln only shop. Most of my time with Ford has been at Lincoln. You just get better service. They have higher standards. We get a lot of Mustangs, and similar types of Ford branded vehicles because they don't want a bunch of kids at a quick lane fooling with their cars.
This is why I stick to old Gen reliable models of ford, these new vehicles are such problems with so many sensor and so expensive. It's just more money for ford
That truck is 5 years old with 95,000 miles on it. I would be willing to bet that truck was upwards of $80,000 plus when it was new. To spend $5,600.00 on taillights? Certainly does add meaning to the term 'stealership." I guess the ol' Marquis is going to need to run forever. Great video!
I had this happen on my truck and fixed it for $200. The OEM LED taillights are known to crack and let in moisture which causes all electronics to go haywire. I ordered a set of aftermarket lights on eBay, plugged them in, and unprogrammed BLIS and rear cross traffic alert via forscan. Do NOT plug in the BLIS modules to your new aftermarket tails. Worked perfect and much better than spending $7,000 Canadian.
@pbear216 all these auto makers order parts from the same people. This is why everything has electric power steering, the modules are made by the same companies. This was proven while TFL was messing around with awd systems on small suv's. It's all junk nowadays, they just look slightly different.
I retired after 12+ years, from managing test labs at the biggest IT company on the planet, Before that I did 26+ years as a certified master mechanic, Diagnosis and test methodologies are my thing, either in the lab, the shop or at the race track. No doubt these sensors add safety and peace of mind in brain numbing traffic of today, but the cost to repair one failed items is also why I make bank restoring and building older vehicles for customers. I add in many modern items like fuel injection, brake systems and audio/video systems to give some of the bells and whistles these new rides have but without all the CAN-BUSS headaches that, like this issue can cascade through-out the other systems. I must tip my hat to Brian - he really earns his pay! Techs like him are hard to find and keep, Hope you all appreciate the effort he has put into becoming a fantastic FoMoCo (and I bet many others makers rides) technician! Well Done Sir-- WELL DONE!
Definitely have repaired this exact concern lots of times. I keep telling my customers. Fancy packages carry some pretty extreme repair costs. Thanks for posting!
If I had one of those I'd pull the tail light and pull that BLIS module to make sure the seal isn't corroded and there is no water, then I'd grease that seal with silicone type grease to keep further corrosion from happening. Pretty poor design, that is not made to last... can't seal corroded aluminum.
@@sl4983 You only get the LED taillights on high spec truck packages - if this wasn't a platinum F-150 it would have $3 incandescent bulbs still and it would be a much cheaper part to replace. I wonder if he could have downgraded and saved some cash - might have to replace a harness because the connectors are different but probably a lot cheaper fix.
This is exactly why I drive a 2000 Lexus ES300 and a 1996 Ford E250 with an I6. I literally couldn’t afford a new vehicle, let alone the repairs! I’m only 25 and I could already see the writing on the wall with newer cars as time went on. Absolutely tragic. Pretty soon the car market is going to look like the farmer’s tractor market. Old tractors you can work on go for twice as much as new tractors with failing computers.
@@Smokeythewelder pushin 20 years and I dread the thought of having to "upgrade" someday. They've been putting out some real garbage for a long time now.
Thank you for your work, man! There are cases in US called “right to repair”. I guess it was connected with Apple and John Deere. In both cases the manufacturer over complicated to ability to repair their product. USA is a great country for protecting customer against those practices, so I guess in the future more cases like yours will appear with many products. So eventually consumers and fair craftsman like you will be protected from mess like this. We just need to make those problems public. Like you do. So you are not only repairing a truck, you are changing the future. So thank you!
Great advice to use the silicone dielectric grease. I do NO electrical repairs without stuffing all connectors with this grease. Not only does it deny oxygen and moisture access to the contact plating, it also lubricates the contacts to prevent mechanical plating erosion from vibration.
But at the metal to metal contact between the two surfaces of the plug and connector there isn’t dielectric grease, otherwise it would block the electrical current. Correct?
@@jasonborne5724 Absolutely correct. The contact is metal to metal at the molecular level and the grease would insulate the contact *if it could*. What happens is that the dielectric grease gets pushed aside at the contact point(s) but surrounds the contact points with a barrier that excludes air, moisture, and any contaminates.
I put dielectric grease recently on an Audi TT led rail lamp in an effort to prevent corrosion and 2 weeks later it came back with the tail lamp not working! Had to clean the connectors off for it to work again.
I retired from my auto repair business in 2011 and glad I did. Module Hell today ! Thank you for for all you show us. Saved my butt a few times 🙏👍🏻 Always enjoy your videos !
As one of my instructors once said "Believe it or not, having a ton of issues when it comes to electrical usually means you have a single common problem, making it easier to solve."
"locate fees" sounds like one hell of a racket, especially when they now won't stock these replacement parts, i wouldn't be surprised if a stealerships answer is "just buy a new one"
I'm assuming the locate fee was from a third party that does that kind of thing. There are places that will try to find parts from places like salvage yards for a fee. I think the dealer would just tell you sorry they are on back-order and we can order them but can't tell you when or if we'll actually get them in. Fee or not they aren't going to find them for you they'll just tell you tough luck.
@@bubba99009 Some dealers I've heard like to hoard certain items that are on backorder, I heard about it with Chevrolet's 5.3/6.2 lifter issues. I'm not sure how FORD is but I believe GM has the ability for one dealership to check the inventory of the entire lot of nationwide dealerships as far as I am aware, and then you can request/buy parts from another dealership through their parts department. Not so for FORD?
true diag ? not a mechanic. by name, a mechanic fixes mechanical things. this is electrical/computer engineering. not the same thing. theyve taken it all away from the mechanics, and handed it over to the computer nerds. good luck with that.
Had almost the same problem with an F-150. HS network was down so you can imagine how many modules that was. Spent an absurd amount of time trying to figure out which module was causing it until I finally started unplugging everything one by one, it ended up being the ABS module. The unplug method, works every time.
I went through this exact issue. The idea of a little water taking down the entire truck is insane. I love my 2017 F150 Platinum but this almost made me sell it. For those wondering, disconnecting the battery for half a day, cleaning drying, and greasing several 20 pin connectors (relating to the tailight) and replacing the entire tailight including the BLIS module finally fixed it. I also drilled a tiny weep hole in the lens of the new light so water couldn't collect in there and work it's way into the BLIS module - used a clear caulk to seal the module into the taillamp body too. It was insane gremlins all over the truck till I fixed it. Utter bullshit! I really appreciate you making this video. There is a lot of confusion out there on this issue.
Uncle Tony sent me. You would think for all the money that Ford charges for these vehicles, they could do a better job of sealing the tail lights and electrical connectors! That's just horrible ☹️
The new vehicles are so expensive because they are sticking mini datacenters in there. With manufacturers knowing that you would think that weatherproofing would be more of a concern, but then again you won't get to sell as many parts. Well executed and methodical troubleshooting on your part!
Anything involving a vehicle, the prices are out of control. That's what makes your videos so invaluable to average income people, people who $5600 is not sensible to fix tail lights of all things. Thanks for doing what you do.
Right to repair doesn’t mean you know how to repair. They’re making them so complicated you have to be a computer/electronics expert to understand. Late model vehicles are being totaled out due to outrageous parts cost or inability to diagnose
For the price of these parts the electronics should be bomb proof. Of course the manufacturer only cares about getting through the warranty period, nothing these days is built to last much past that
I worked at a high line dealership when HID headlights first came out. A customer would come in with a burned out headlight and expect it to be a $5.00 bulb. When the bulb would short out it would take out the bulb, ballast and igniter in the headlamp. To get to the headlamp out to repair you had to remove bumper and replace the parts. It was sticker shock to the customer to know it was going to cost $1000 to get the headlight working. The repair cost was mostly parts.
I think most people need to see what a repair bill for all this fancy stuff costs before they buy a top trim new car. If they did, let's just say I don't think as many people would loom down on then for buying a low trim model or a used car instead.
Yep, went to change the headlamp on my car and discovered I had to take off the bumper. Talk about BS designs. These vehicles are ridiculous. Soon enough everyone will essentially swap out cars as often we do phones because nobody can afford to fix them (won’t be worth the cost).
I have HIDs in both my cars and I get replacement bulbs for $10 and I have never known anyone to have a ballast go. You sure you weren't just ripping your customers off? Removing a bumper usually only takes a few minutes too.
@@idahodiy Igniter 33102-S0k-A01 $285.31 Ballast 33144-S0K-A01 $506.59 Bulb 33116-S0A-J11 $304.29 Labor 2hrs @ $100 an hour circa 1999 The bulbs were not readily available aftermarket in 1999. Still cost around $100 aftermarket from autozone.. Seen a ton of them go out on Acura TL's when they first came out.
This is why I like my simple basic plain 2005 F250 XL. The only electrical problem I’ve had was a bad alternator, failed blower resistor and a camshaft position sensor. All ez to troubleshoot & repair and parts didn’t cost an arm & leg.
I really miss my '96 Bronco. 155k, engine, trans, trans case all trouble free. But body rot, dead leaf springs, and other deteriorating body parts made me give it up.
@J.W.W. I think platinum and limited are great if you get a new truck every year. If you keep for decades at a time, go with the one that has less systems that may fail
I’ll stick with my 2014 Tundra that has 169k miles on it and has never been in the shop. It doesn’t tell me when someone is beside me, that’s what the $350 mirrors are for. I grew up driving in the 80’s. I know to stay between the lane lines. I know not to get too close to other objects. I guess growing up in the modern world is kinda tough.
My wife got into an accident going about 20mph in our Ford CMax Energy 2017. It had a crinkle in the hood, cracked bumper cover, damage to the crash bumper, core support, snap in replaceable radiator post, and the headlight was cracked. The car was totaled. They wrote me a check for $13k after taking some off so I could keep the car. A new headlight was a $1200-2000 depending on where it came from. I bought a used one with a broken mounting tab for $500, bought a core support for $60 shipped, crash bumper $70 shipped, $15 for the radiator post, straightened out the hood myself, scraped off the cracked paint, sanded the bare metal and feathered the sanding into the good paint and then hit it with touch up spray paint. I gave the bumper cover zip tie stitches and then bought a car bra for $100 the bra covers all the damaged areas. Also the paint cracked on the fender at the edge so I had to sand that down and hit it with touch up paint. Luckily it was only 20mm X 5mm area so it doesn’t look awful. I spent less than $1000 to get it back on the road and about 20HRs of time. I will be on the lookout for a used gray front bumper cover and hood but am in absolutely no rush. If it takes me 5 years to find them then it takes 5 years.
I have a Toyota Avalon. I hit a deer a few years ago. Total repair bill was &10,976. The deer strike took out the radar for the cruise control. The radar module was $900.00. The windshield also got cracked, that was another $970 because of the lane departure camera.
funny wife just had the windshield replaced in the Avalon 2018 I think it was $1100 covered by insurance glass coverage. But we had to bring it directly to the shop as they said the lane keeping needed to be recalibrated. had to take everything out of the car as they said it needed to be stock weight for the calibration, so car seats out and empty trunk...
Imagine all the added tension & excitement for air passengers, if aircraft electrical systems were designed this way. Something as random as a passenger toilet extractor fan not working, might be a serious enough reason to request an emergency landing 😊
A couple years ago I had a similar issue on my platinum 2016 F150. I took the taillights off, dried them, and used silicone caulk to reseal the tail lights. Everything has worked great ever since. I was lucky to find a forum post where someone described the problem and solution.
Thank you sincerely for taking the time to make this and a couple of more associated videos. It saved be a lot of money. Bushings were $7.00 from Auto Zone and the few hours of my own time saved $600 from the local wrench's estimate to replace the complete shifter tube. I smoothed out the tube where the bushings are located under the clamps, removing the casting marks and rough spots which helped chew up the original bushings. I also applied a little White Lithium grease on the tube where the bushings ride and it shifts like new.
13 years ago I purchased a 1991 Toyota Hi-Ace Diesel 4WD for $5500NZ. It is still running. I have spent around $5000 in repairs. (Mostly rust, as I take it on the beach). I will never sell it. No question, it is the best vehicle I have ever owned. The tail-lights are original.
Question are you able to buy the newer Hi-Aces over 2011 model? Here in Europe the 2011+ "pollute too much" so we don't have them I know they make them in Japan. However Toyota has paired up with PSA Peugeot and Citroen to rebadge a Partner and call it the "Pro Ace" just a French Shitbox IMO with Toyota badges, a disgrace many customers say they buy Toyota because of quality, and they get a French car, talk about a scam. Also a side note Volvo, people buy them because of "Quality" little do people know after 1999 Ford bought them and Shitboxes yet again, however now China has Volvo it is just Shitboxes with big wheels. If you did not know, "Stellantis" is a auto conglomerate made up of the Crappiest car companies ever to exist destined to make the ultimate shitbox, can't wait to screw over more people with stupid repair bills.
@@heisenfeis yeah-the crappy Stellantis car, the Alfa-Romeo Giulia, was for a long time the fastest 4-door car in the Nordschleife, faster than many supercars.
It is hard to believe, but there are enough people with money, and they are ready to pay to drive the modern car with 400 hp engine, 10 airbags, leather, climate control, bose music and good brakes.
I've got 2 vehicles a 2012 and 2009. If I can't do the work myself myself repair costs creep up to $2-3,000. Outrageous! Your videos are my 1st line of defense before I take them to the shop. Thanks for what you do.
Chevys have the same problem side detection takes the high speed network down you get random symptoms every time a lot of no starts and no power steering type stuff unplug the harness and they come right back
Time is money, dont buy stuff that you cant afford, like a lot of idiots out there popping out mistakes that they cant afford, all they need to learn is how to use a condom.
We see this frequently in the southeast where we have a huge amount of rainfall that comes down in short durations. It is so common if you come in with MS-CAN bus faults, that's become our starting point. I've also seen the equivalent failure in Rams. I'm not sure why this hasn't come up as a recall issue, especially considering other saftey related components that have such as the 360 degree camera system. If cameras warrant a recall, why don't blind spot dectection systems?
I have the same truck same year and the same issue luckily it was still under warranty.The dealer replaced everything including sensors over 5000$ in parts alone also had to have the timing chain and cam phasers replaced at 60,000 miles that was 4000$ unbelievable they did warranty everything but still ridiculous
I drive a forklift, in the plant that built that tail lamp (and headlamp). That was the P-552 program, which is now a service program. So, we only run them occasionally, when required to fill service orders. That's a High Series rear lamp, with LED's and the BLIS module. We are currently running the P-702 program, getting close to changing to MCA. By the way, that lamp was built by Ventra Lighting, (Flex-N-Gate) Sandusky, Ohio.
It would be wise to refrain from using a pressure washer on any light fixtures when washing your vehicle. Body parts okay but not on plastic parts because they eventually allow water inside the components.
It would be wiser to design and manufacture a vehicle that will not be forced into self-destruct mode when water gets in the vicinity of the tail lamps.
I bought a 2001 F150 XLT in 2000. It now has over 285000 miles on it. It hasn't been trouble free but no major issues. I live in SE Texas so salt corrosion is not an issue as long as I stay off the beach. My son-in-law thinks I should buy a new truck. This has convinced me not to do that.
Morimoto makes an awesome set of LED tail lights compatible with BLIS. I just tossed them on my f150 lariat. Nothing was wrong with my OEM set, I just wanted a more modern look and brighter lights. Typically, have sales. I paid $500, and they bought my OEM set for $240. So, $260 for the set. This is for the Gen 2 in red. Highly recommended.
My 2004 FX4 had a leak in the rear window seal that got my security module wet. $30 for a used module, and $150 to reseal the rear window. That's about my speed when it comes to repair costs. Still running strong after 200,000 miles.
My 03 did the same thing but just ruined my aftermarket amplifiers and rear window motor. My security module I think is in my dash, they must have realized it wasn't going to get wet enough there so they moved it by the leak prone back window when they redesigned them in 04!🙂. At 20 years old and being out in the Florida sun, all the seals are drying out. I just had to re-seal the windshield as the sealant had dried out in one spot and was dripping. Can't really complain with how old it is and the climate it's in. My 2014 Grand Cherokee already had rubber parts rotting off of it about 10 minutes after the 3 year bumper to bumper warranty ran out. Windshield squirters flew off and rubber strip on the cowl dried out and started making farting noises at highway speeds until it disintegrated. The Grand cost nearly 2x what the F150 did and it's been in the shop more times in the first couple of years than the F150 has in 20. Too much plastic and too many corners cut. The new ones are quiet, smooth and get better mileage, but that does you no good on the side of the road!
Great video - give yourself more credit, the move to cycle the key and check for difference is a skilled intuitive gesture, I've watched other tech's chase their tails without getting to a common point of fault. I once spent well over 20 hours looking for an intermittent fault on a Range Rover, ultimately found a chafed wire for one of the injectors intermittently grounding as the engine torqued up on the rev range, the rocking motion tightened the harness enough to initiate contact and immediate ground resulting in full fuel dump to that cylinder. That point of contact was allowed due to the convolute tubing split - the split was directly on top of an intake manifold bolt, the wire over 3 thousand miles wore down to direct contact creating full ground and max spray as in wide open throttle on the one cylinder only happening under real load, 4 wheels on the ground and actual driving conditions. On the lift, there wasn't enough resistance on the drive train to re-create the dynamic action of torque applied by the contact on the road to reproduce the grounding fault. This one was a rough process.
I hear ya!! What I've learned over the years of being a tech is that most times it's easier to forget what you think you know and dont tunnel vision on the issue.....instead start at the very most basic.....battery voltage,wiring etc. It's amazing how many electrical faults I've discovered just by moving wires around. I got s good one for ya though....I was working on a brand new electric forklift one time that would shut down intermittently. In the end, it turned out that one pin was bent in one of the modules which would short to the one beside it. It was an unused pin and the connector still pushed on but "felt" ever so slightly different than the rest of the connectors. Your story reminded me of that one.
A most excellent tracking to the fault and perfect logic… when bean counters get to alter designs this is surely what happens to us as consumers… the manufacturers have been undersizing wires for years!!!
I’m a Ford tech at a dealer. If I’m dealing with any type of network or communications issues, the very first thing I do is have a walk around the vehicle and make sure there isn’t a bunch of water in the tail lamps. I can’t even count how many times I’ve seen issues like this. It’s not just F150’s either. I’ve seen it on explorers and expeditions with the SOD-L/R behind the bumper covers too.
They usually don’t just leak on their own. But any little crack in the lens will cause them to leak. And it doesn’t take much to crack them. They are a very brittle plastic.
@@maciejrudolfIt's plastic. Sun, heat, time, and general pollution are it's enemies. It gets brittle over time and any bump or even the vibration of the vehicle can cause cracks. Auto manufacturers are in a rough position. They don't want to use components that fail too quickly. But have to use recyclable or biodegradable materials. Getting the balance isn't easy. It could also be the seals. I've seen several that are warped or cracked. Not enough to be noticable, but enough to let air and moisture in. In areas with high humidity or constant rain this can cause water to build up. Better seals can be used, but they cost more. When a $1.50/unit will work fine, but a $3.00 that works better is available they'll go with the first. It doesn't seem like much but they spread that out over a couple hundred thousand cars per year and it adds up.
I just bought an 2008 F150 (FX4) with 200k miles pretty cheap and am watching all of your videos to wrap my head around what I need to do to get some good years out of it. Thanks for making these videos!
The lens and housing are two pieces bonded together. They will almost always leak and I've resealed plenty of ford headlights and taillights over past 30+ years. From fox body mustangs to all year ford trucks it's been a problem for decades. I run a bead of silicone sealer around the inside lip where the two pieces meet. Easy fix.
@@sl4983a vehicle with alot of options and accessories installed. Led lights, panoramic sunroof, power liftgate, safety features, expensive drivetrain
My 2016 has basically the same taillight assembly with the vehicle sensors. 2 years ago I noticed some inner condensation in the housings. I pulled both off and removed the radar sensors, blasted them with a heat gun on low for an hour to remove all moisture. Re-sealed all the seams with clear rtv silicone. Sealed around the screw posts (they tend to hairline crack). I had the same random everything issues. Caught mine before any corrosion. Zero issues since.
Very well done explaining the situation. Everybody owning the newer cars need to understand the complexity of the technical bells and whistles, in the event of failure, it will be $$$$ to have the issues resolved. I would go back to basic model’s. I mean if I could find them.
And, of course, being a 2018, it’s out of warranty, even though somebody at the factory probably forgot to seal something up, which is why it leaked in the first place! As much as I like the features in the newer vehicles, for the price of those two tail lights I can go find myself a decent early 80s bullnose F150 and a pack of $.99 bulbs for the tail lights!
I've actually seen this at a shop I Managed about a year and half ago. The customer, fortunately was only out a deductible with having extended warranty coverage. I was SHOCKED that warranty coverage it.
Electrical/Mechanical Sherlock Holmes at work👍 and I sure hope the owner of this truck realizes how fortunate he is to have this guy as a local mechanic.
That is friggin ridiculous! I'm going to have to research my next car to find out how much tail lights, head lights and other "small" items are before I buy one
Interestingly enough, a vendor outfitting some vehicles for us had the same issue. No HVAC/erratic drive ability issues. They pulled the bed to install side boxes and never transferred the harness. Once they did, all was good. Crazy.
Excellent job! It's amazing how a bad connection or module or two can bring down the whole network. A Can-Bus circuit must have a terminating resistor at either end, and sometimes those resistors are built into modules, or sometimes they appear to be unused harness pigtails. If shorted or open those resistors can also cause severe network issues. When diagnosing multiple problems like on this F-150, always look to see if the issues are are on the same network as you did.
Hey, love your channel. Yes, automotive repair costs are out of control. I'm fortunate enough to have worked in the aviation industry as a PowerPlant and avionics tech and have worked with CAN systems for the past 24 years, one definitely needs a good electrical back ground in order to understand these new vehicles and be able to fix them. Plus the equipment/ tooling required. I've also owned my own auto repair shop and much prefer aviation, lol. Anyway, keep up the great work, and thanks for all your great info.
Great video Brian. Hands down best Ford Tech on TH-cam. Everyone Else only dreams to be as good. Don't waste your time with anyone else. This further reinforces my desire to only buy vehicles that have little to no driver assist features. For sure doesnt make vehicles more reliable.
Crazy to think I paid exactly the same amount for a near mint 2011 Ford Focus with 55K miles 6 years ago as one F150 tail lamp! Currently at 165K trouble free miles with minimal maintenance done as my daily beater car. Everything is overly complicated these days.
I'm not a mechanic, but every vehicle I've worked on I've never seen grease in the connectors. Definteky need to do that to the Transit since Ford is so smart to direct the water flow right on top of the main harness connection. Never Ford again
Auto makers these days are all about building a vehicle as cheaply as possible, while selling it for the highest possible price. Nothing else matters to them.
@@albowrx As a now retired aircraft electrical systems guy, who did side jobs in automotive shops from time to time, dialectric grease on electrical connections to prevent corrosion on electrical connections with the potential for moisture exposure used to be the norm for aircraft and motor vehicles. Now the car manfactures seem to have forgone using it. They tend to seal things a little better than they used too, but corrosion is still an issue quite often. Other than cost I have no idea why things have changed in the automotive industry.
Wow...just unbelievable. Just saw a 67 Ford custom with a 427 and a 4 speed... Beautiful simplicity. Gotta ask yourself, what the hell are these auto makers doing lately
Auto makers are putting unneeded BS into cars since consumers demand every damned thing and because of big brother in Washington DC. This is why I have a hatred for modern vehicles, as someone who is Gen Z, wouldn’t loose too much sleep if all modern vehicles suddenly went to the crusher tomorrow. Modern vehicles really are pieces of ****.
we own a 20 expedition. We hit a small bird on the front headlight while traveling. We waited six weeks for a new unit, that was the good news, bad news was $1,900 for the headlight plus labor. At least we aren't driving a triton anymore.
You are a phenomenal technician and I am glad you have been able to build an awesome business on your own. Also, seeing issues like this does not give me any confidence in vehicle technology moving forward. And this is also why I generally stay away from higher trim level vehicles. We keep ours for a long time and like to avoid any extra gadgetry that is only present on those higher trims.
@@TrashLeftiesI've been telling people those new trucks won't last ten years, blessed if they did. Crazy that I once had a mechanic tell me those new ones are built better to last.....they can last 200k miles but the risks of expensive issues is too ridiculous.
Great video! I agree, new car/truck repairs even for the DYI is absurdly expensive. Modules/Computers belong in your phone or PC not cars and trucks. I deal with this often on HD Trucks, too many modules that affect everything.
This is my truck. First off, I want to express my gratitude to those who advised me to contact my insurance company. I followed your advice, and Travelers Insurance paid me $5100 since the issue turned out to be water-related. Huge shout out to Travelers!
Now, the general consensus around here is that all this safety equipment is unnecessary. However, for me personally, I find the BLISS system quite enjoyable. Living in the Chicago area means dealing with wide tollways, around 4-5 lanes in each direction, where people speed at 80 MPH. But here's the catch, that same 80 MPH traffic can randomly slow down or even come to a halt. I find checking my blind spot monitor on my mirror much safer than looking completely behind me.
I would personally be willing to pay $5000 for that extra safety. If I still lived in southwest Missouri, my place of origin, I might skip this particular feature. Driving is less of an extreme sport there, and a simple fender bender wouldn't turn into a gun fight the way it very well could in the Chicago area.
I must say, having Brian as my technician is a true blessing. Just two months ago, the folks at the local Ford dealer (HAWK FORD) told me that my truck needed a new front differential. However, Brian correctly diagnosed it as a front wheel bearing issue.
Brian undercharges for his expertise, and FORD dramatically overcharges for taillights.
So BOTH lamps had the water intrusion - are the new ones an improved design or is this just a few rainstorms away from paying this again? Direct replacement seems so risky. I think I'd have you try to dry it out and get it working well enough to trade it in and buy something else with repair costs like that. Sorry you had so much trouble but glad to hear insurance covered most of it.
Another issue with these tail lamps is that they also get stolen. Make sure you make it difficult to remove the lamps. change the 8mm screws to safety torx and make each one a different size. or your paying 5600 all over again
@@ian3580 I was wondering the same thing since they were replaced with OEM units.
I'm so sorry for you
I wouldn't pay 5000 for an entire car even though I can afford a new truck like yours :) Glad you were able to pass the cost onto the insurance though!
This is an incredibly compelling case to avoid modern vehicles.
im currently driving a 1000$ suburban with a 454, gas price is ok since I got it so cheap and fix myself
Amen to that
@@TheInsultInvestorAnd on top of that, you're not paying thousands for a tail light repair
@@jisezer That's an excuse to enable dealerships. Just because you can afford something doesn't mean it's a worthwhile product.
@@jisezer Watching this makes having an 86 Dodge D100 still more reasonable.
Been a shop owner for 50 something years, ive watched this coming. The very reason i drive a 95 bronco, and a 74 f100. Truly out of control....
50 YEARS!!!! Hat's off to you, I bet you have stories to tell.
I hear you there. Fellow independent tech for the last 18 years now. Drive a carb'd ram with a 5 speed, in perfect shape as my work truck. 97 ram sport 1500 i retrofitted. Kept enough of the wire harness for the o2 sensors and gauges but slapped a carb and a classic distributor on it. I live in a free state.
I'm with you. I drive a 1993 Crown Victoria & a 2000 F250 7.3L I can and do fix them myself in the driveway!🔧
@@doughurt297905 Taurus as the daily driver. But have a 73 Fleetwood with a 472 and positraction and a 79 sedan DeVille with a 425 in the driveway. Besides the body and trim, completely interchangeable parts as they're both using the 372/425/472/500 Cadillac engine block and th400 trans
I have an 02 sequoia with 245k and runs like a champ.I came across a 351w and a ZF6 speed I plan to put in a bull nose pickup. Def want a truck that is all analog. At least I’ll be able to repair it myself without having to worry about computers.
My truck is 25 years old, the thought of getting something 'modern' is terrifying. Everything in our system today is designed to squeeze the customer dry. He paid more for these taillights then I paid for my whole truck.
The customer paid as much for one taillight cover that I paid for my car.
I recently rebuilt my transmission on 2000 Silverado for 1700. When dealing with transmission shops never say rebuild it say replace the worn parts. Unfortunately my truck has 311, 563 miles so everything was worn out. In a few years I will probably need an engine, but if I do it now I can get a crate engine installed for 1200. My tires cost 225 for 4 tires can't beat these costs with a stick. Today a scratched up pickup truck with 300k miles is worth 3k, but a repaint, new driver seat, new tinted windshield, tint the other glass, install power windows in a standard truck, $600 white letter tires, front end replaced, rear rebuilt and a new transmission is worth 7k for a 23 year old pickup.
telecommunications
to much uneeded garbage in modern vehicles, all distracting to regular commuters and even drivers. keep it simple cnuts, designing these things for terminators?
I totally agree. I'm even looking into hoarding some donor trucks for spare parts before things get too crazy. I went Cummins diesel and will never look back.
This should be reported to NHTSA and at minimum there should be a recall.
indeed. if that knocks the can bus out mid driving you can lose control of your vehicle.
Imagine thinking an authority is going to communicate with another authority that some tiny little consumer has an issue they want them to fix. Total the car and buy something you can pop the hood and fix yourself. Tons of videos breaking down cars simply.
Oh there likely will be a recall.
@@mikenismogtr As was done to Max Hastings in 2013. RIP.
Hundreds of vehicles need to start appearing with this issue for a recall to be ordered. The BLIS module is not a legally-required function. If the water causes the taillight to malfunction, that is a legal issue, however not recall-worthy. I wonder if the water intrusion occurred from the weld of the lamp or the seal on the bracket for the BLIS module. If within the warranty window, a dealer would replace this free of charge. That's why extended warranties are so key on modern vehicles, especially ones with loads of features.
You know something is wrong when labor/diagnoses costs are the smallest charge on the repair bill!!!
😄
No, it's absolutely ok. Meaning most of the work is already done at development of diagnostics, workplace setup and part procurement. This is how it happens in real sector.
It is the total value still being a problem.
@peek5548 you know you kinda contradict yourself here, right?
If the labor is expensive, but the sum is small - means work did not take long. Must be good, right?
Or would you rather work your a$$ off for a taillight instead of something useful? Now that is "not ok, but you do you" situation here.
I can imagine the look on a customers face when they are told their truck won’t start because their tail lights are bad 😂
That reminds me of the Chrysler Lebaron Convertible and it's electrical nightmares! Back in the day, Chrysler(Much deserved) got lots of flak for their electrical design faults. Ford shouldn't be given a pass as well, there should be no way a tail light could've caused this much damage. That's just not right at all. FordTechMakuloco is a serious lifesaver!
@@ftffighter worse part is reliability is rapidly declining
@@zachbruner481while prices increase exponentially. Utterly ridiculous.Fix Or Repair Daily. But Chevy/GMC and Dodge/Chrysler are no different.🙄
@@malekodesouza7255They are now.
They got filled up with blinker fluid
My daughter’s 2016 King Ranch just had this issue. Thank you for sharing information on this! I was able to dry everything out and then ran the sensor and the taillight through our LEM dehydrator at 100 degrees for a few hours to completely dry everything out. Cleaned up the connector pins and added some dielectric grease on all connections and gaskets. I was stunned that it was enough to resolve the issue. I disconnected the battery overnight also hoping to reset everything I could. Everything came back online! I almost cried. What a relief. Automatic running boards, air conditioning fan and buttons, radio controls, side mirror controls, seat memory buttons, driver door front window controls, seat massager, oh and the blind spot monitor. Insane what is so intermangled. It’s basically a modern computer network. If there is ever an EMP event these vehicles are down.
Yes it is a modern computer network in your car, and that is complete nonsense. They went to the moon in 1969 with a lot of Analog computing power. You could virtually beat it with a hammer and it would still work. Now it takes nothing to disrupt Digital Equipment. Just some noise in the power supplies voltage output to the computer can cause a failure.
I have a 2015 king ranch. RH tail light has moisture, blind spot and cross traffic faults. Dealer wants $2k to replace it. I'm going to try something similar to what you've shared here. If that doesn't work maybe buy parts and do the job myself. Some programming required with Forscan. Thanks for sharing!
As a former Ford dealership gas and diesel driveability guy, much respect to you for sharing all that you do. If I had a dollar for every time someone assumed a scan tool “told” a mechanic how to fix a vehicle….. you proved why there’s a difference between a technician and a parts changer.
Stealerships are completely useless today, most can barely do a oil change 🙄
@@ginog5037 Yet they get $150/hr to do so poorly.
@@ljprep6250 Absolutely paying some kid who couldn't care less about your $30-100k ride...
It would be so much easier to change a SIMPLE part.
A precomputer truck would have just blown away fuse when the bulb socket got wet.
And this is why all my cars are over 20 years old. As my grandpa used to say that's just more stuff to go wrong. Side note: You've saved me thousands in repairs over the years sir, thanks for doing what you do 👍🏻
Me as well. I see more vehicles less than 5 years old either going up in flames on the side of the road or hooked up to a tow truck heading to a shop/dealership.
I disagree. The problem is old vehicles suck. Theres a line between old and still capable and super affordable, compared to old and worn out. Do you really want to trust 20+ year old airbags to cushion your head and prevent brain injury.
@@censored4christ162 Super affordable? Yeah no.... I'll take my air bagless 91 c1500 and 92 silverado over anything that you consider super affordable thats going to need to be replaced at less than 150k miles....
I worked on diesels, will not trade in my 2003 dodge Cummins.
Much less emissions, 3200 rpm diesel.
Detroit diesel 6-71 and 8-92's had 2100 max rpms.
Million mile engines, we're not uncommon.
Pray 1990, before OBaD. The hard part is rust, many old cars were rust buckets. Find a barn car in Kansas, but they're getting scarce.
That is why you should always look at the cost of the sales package items prior to buying that “high end” vehicle. When I was looking for my new 2017 F-150 I stayed away from the upper level trucks. The fancy light option was $4600. That tells you how much the replacement parts will cost.
The more expensive the parts the more expensive to replace; the more complex the part the more points of failure. There's really no way around this unless you're getting even more expensive parts with better durability and testing along with warranty.
Just price out any electrical light bulb for a modern vehicle/ as compared to the old days.
Yes. But they are so much better today. Yes. look at the price and the potential money pit you could wind up in. High tech/ high cost.
As an experienced technician myself, since 1995, I concur this sentiment but, still wager it’s all relative, in the bigger picture of how things tend to be.. take for example, damned near any vehicles made during the 1950’s that offered bells & whistle exotic features like, Wonderbar Auto-Tuner Radio, Autronic Eye auto dimming system, Air Conditioning, Cruise Control, etc., etc.. it’s been somewhat a rare occurrence to even come across these vehicles WITH these options/features but, incredibly rare for ANY of these options/features to STILL BE FUNCTIONAL, as whenever those originally had issues, customers back in the day, most often just ignored getting them fixed, when told how much repairs would cost them then. Big obvious difference tho of course, one could continue operating those vehicles for decades later, without any of those problems affecting the running/driving of the cars… this “integration” factor, seemed to become more seeded in with the auto industry @ 1993-on; gradually becoming what it is these days. I need a PHD to diagnose these modern things! Have considered implementing the word, “Practice” in shop name! 😂🤪
how else can u severely blind anyone else not in a big ass truck
@@seanbatiz6620 yes
1157 lamps used to cost $.65 and were easily replaced. Sure miss those days.
I smashed a tail light on my '09 Pilot (barely 100k miles) and replaced it in 5 min with a $35 complete assembly. I would never buy a new truck. I drive in L.A. and haven't needed ten computers telling me what's in my mirrors.
Ditto that. and the amber ones were #1156 if i remember correctly.
@MarkoS1952 lol... just bought some for my old jeep the other day. Two Phillips head screws... pop them in, done.
👍🏾
Lmao I still buy them and they haven't been 65 cents in decades
So buy something old. Or can you not live without heated mirrors and butt massager?
Nice work diagnosing! Now I know why they are getting totaled with minor damage! Absolutely insane!!!
Yup! Lots of vehicles getting written off at our bodyshop with minor looking damage but due to over complication will go to autowrecker. How is that saving the environment, if that's the road they say we're on? We'll all be riding donkeys again soon 😂
That's part of the reason. Over the years insurance companies (technically insurance boards) changed the defintion of what "totaled" means.
Yup. It seems like insurance companies no longer fix cars. They just total everything out
But, new cars are so gentle on the environment. Like the coal powered Teslas that must be grasped by large fossil fueled powered machine claws and plopped into a semi trailer sized aquarium of water for days after they catch on fire. Very practical.
@@Amor1990 Especially with an EV. One tiny rupture in a battery could mean an entire condo goes up in flames.
Ford Truck LTD owner:" My truck doesn't start! Can you fix it?"
Ford Mechanic: "Absolutely! We just need to change your taillights - that'll be $5600 please."
No shade thrown at Brian - he located the fault and provided the fix. It just ridiculous at how expensive it has become to fix these technological terrors. Thanks for the 'enlightening' video good Sir!
This just reinforces my decision to keep my 2011 F150.
@williamchristenbury1774 exactly right I'm staying with the 04, that 3 valve
Imagine being told that 20 years ago, that TAIL LIGHTS caused a no crank...
Insane.
@@williamchristenbury1774my 2011 5.0 just hit 300k miles im keeping it too
@@williamchristenbury1774 : I had a "97 Safari that broke every time I used it. Back in about 2003, the fuel pump went low pressure. No problem. It's inside the gas tank, and was only $842, in a box. I did the labour. The water pump started leaking, followed by the alternator failing, which took the battery with it. I noticed the brakes were making noise. The front rotors wore down to the point where they couldn't be turned, followed by the rear brakes having the fiction material break loose. ( riveted, in '97?)The rear doors leaked. The power windows failed, withing days of each other. The rear heater failed. The front blower failed. Of course the armrest wore out. There were likely other failures too.
I had much better luck with a LADA. At least when it broke, you could get to the parts, and they were cheap.
Oh, and it was the last GM I'll own.
This is exactly why I took my 2007 Silverado off the road and bought a ‘93 Ram W250, Cummins 5-speed. Wasn’t cheap to buy, but it’s cheap to repair and easy to fix. Might not be the fastest or most comfortable thing out there, but it WORKS. A win-win in my book.👍
Buy new seats, it’ll be comfortable then.
@@5400bowen Honestly, the thing actually ain’t that bad for a solid axle vehicle.
A 07 Silverado is pretty cheap to fix stuff
@@agger838This! I have an 04 Tahoe. The parts are dirt cheap!! The most expensive part is a new engine for $2500.
I also have an 02 Expedition. The parts are also cheap!
@@agger838 To have the transmission built CORRECTLY - as in, will last longer than 100k miles - it cost me almost $5k. To build the rear end correctly - to make that last more than 97k miles - that cost me $1,200. Not what I would call, "cheap" ...
I remember buying parts at reasonable prices with my dad for our cars and it was always a nice little bonding moment for us. Can you guys imagine a kid watching their dad realizing the repair cost is something so unimaginable that the cost is insane and is more than what it costs to work on it. I think where the automotive industry is heading towards is not good at all.
Small cars are still cheap to fix but everyone wants a 70,000$ vehicle they can hardly afford to drive.
We are already there and deeper than many realise.
In the future a car will be written off/junked on previously considered no big deal like windscreen, keys, bumper and computer module etc.
Two things to say
1) Boy, am I ever glad that I retired and don't have to deal with crap like this.
2) Boy am I ever glad that I retired and don't have to deal with stuff like this.
I want to buy a new truck, I no longer have the confidence to go out and spend more then what I paid for my house to buy problems like this.
Just buy a 2007 honda accord sedan with a v6
So nice, you had to say it twice.
@Stratoliner5that's what I've decided to do. I'm not a Ford guy but you can't get something as simple and easy to work on than the Panther cars.
Yessir!! I’ll stick with my 72 , 87 models!!
This is why no matter the cost repairs on my old vehicles it's worth fixing. This one repair cost almost as much as the vehicle I've had for the last 8 years. I don't have all these fancy gadgets but I save tons over vehicles like this
And at the end of day it accomplishes the same goal; IT GETS YOU FROM POINT A TO POINT B.
Amen
100%! My old Ram is ugly, but if I keep it maintained, it will keep running. It will be a treasured antique long after these modern vehicles have been recycled.
Same here.
@@jamesgizassonever check what those "old" Rams are selling for? My old 87 Power Ram in good condition, others asking about $25k for it. Mine isn't for sale.
Those parts prices are criminal. Unbelievable.
Why didn't he buy all the parts from a quality auto dismantler as they would have been about 25% of the price of new???
Okay, the taillight lens would have cost up to 50% of the price of new if they were in perfect condition...
Don't know about this Ford truck but with a lot of cars now electronic parts off another car will not work even if same year, make, model. Friend of mine owns a shop and customer bought a headlight off eBay that worked on the bench but would not work in the car because only the dealer can program the car to accept the new parts and they won't do that unless you bought the parts from them. Because "liability." Edit: I forgot to mention one headlight from the dealer was $3500 and his eBay headlight cost $800.
My '98 Ranger XLT 4.0 supercab with the automatic and AC was under 20k out the door. That included a deluxe color matched cap and some other bits. Wish I had bought two of them and stashed one.
$100,000 for a pickup truck is a stupidity test.
The truck was $68,000. I still have the window sticker.
I’ve enjoyed the truck. I can afford the truck.
It’s unclear why people are angry at me for driving a F-150. 😂🤷
good luck finding a guy like him to work on it.!!!!!!!!!!
Last July I had a 2015 F-150 in the shop. The radio was not operating, the climate controls were dead, and the power windows would not operate. Same thing, one of the tail lamps had water in it, killed the communication bus. Ended up being a $3000 repair as well.
You got away light!
Get a tube of electrical grease and do every connection you can find/ and then the hard ones you cant see. Then keep your fingers crossed and hope like hell.
What's sick to me, is Ford might even refuse to update the part because that would be some admission of guilt and initiate a recall.
That would only be the 45th recall this month by ford, why would that be a problem 😂
It sounds like all it would really take is some dialectric grease on all the connectors......
People say this all the time, but it's wrong. FRE 407 prohibits subsequent remedial measures from being introduced as evidence of culpability or negligence.
@@bigpatty823 You have taught me something today and I am grateful you took the time to do so.
They will update it but then not say anything about it.
Not a mechanic but I worked for a Ford Dealership and I would deliver parts to shops locally. One day I'm delivering a tail lamp and im looking at the invoice and I couldn't believe just the housing was shy of $1000 dollars for ONE.
The Luxury cars are bad $5,000 for one headlight housing
Nowadays, that's a cheap tail light.
Try the Chevy tail lights on the junk silverados. My was charge 1100 dollars for on on his high country
@@jamalblack8973my great uncle bought one. Why? I have no earthly clue. $94000. His final vehicle possibly and he went all out. He sold his travel trailer though. He had no clue about diesel dpf and thought DEF was cheap.. 😳
Have seen an invoice for a range rover taillight guard, not the light, just the black plastic fake bars over tge top....$800 aussie dollars in about 1995.
As a tech, I appreciate that you appreciate the walk through of your diagnosis. I love that you help others learn and grow through your channel!
I am now 66 years old, and have been watching tons of car crash videos, and while doing so became shocked at seeing many cars being simply written off due to ridiculous repair costs. What would cost say $100 in my younger days, could be up $10,000 today. Ah yes, I also recall way back when, that you could even purchase a Honda Civic for $2,000 CAD.
$100 from 1963 is worth about $1000 in todays money. So yeah, even accounting for the ~900% price increase due to inflation from then this type of repair would still be 5 1/2 times more expensive than back then.
Back when there were no safety crash standards. Yes all you would need was a new bumper for $100, but you weee in the hospital for a week from injuries sustained in the crash. Today the vehicle takes all the damage and you walk away un injured
The real problem is Ford using an inferior tail lamp that leets rain water in. My 2016 Lariat was having the same issues. I was lucky, my cost was $0. My diagnosis was to unplug the white connector under the truck near the spare tire. All the warnings shut off. You cannot drive it because you have no tail lights with that unplugged. I took off my rear passenger tail lamp, shook all the water out of it, left it in the sun for 12 hours, made sure everything was good and dry. Put back together and works perfectly. I did do something’s to stop the water, but Ford needs better parts. I remember when Quality Was Job 1.
profit in the short term is job number 1 now. @@jackylsmith8138
@@jackylsmith8138you won't be in a crash because your newer car with all these crap electronics can't be started at all
What you just experienced is one of the main reasons so many of my customers are willing to spend so much money keeping there older cars on the road. As far as diagnosing it , you did not just fall into it, you kept it simply and used common sense. For all the scanners ,scopes, special tester I own and use , a little common sense, experience and using the brain has led me to the answer faster then anything else.
I have a one ton diesel Ford. In two different shops, they diagnosed the Allison tranny sensor as "defective" because it was saying the transmission temp was (if I remember right) negative -49°. At the second shop, I had it replaced. There of course were still issues. A third shop in Greencastle PA corrected the world by advising that the negative -49° sensor reading is actually the common code translated to say; OPEN CIRCUIT. And not a faulty sensor errantly reading tranny temperatures at a -49°
American mechanics can be all over the place, leading us down a very expensive parts chasing+replacing rabbit hole.
Too much guesswork going on at the consumers' expense.
@@williamrobinson6680 I work in parts industry and mechánics just throw parts at vehicles today , order a part that they ( think ) it is and then if new one don't fix it , put that part back in the box , ( to lazy to even clean the part they just hogged up with greasy hands ) and they send it back as a ( new part ) , many times I have to Damage out the part if it can't be cleaned , can't tell you how much a year we damage out over this..
The shared network stuff is crazy to me. A while back I fixed a newer dodge ram that wouldn't start because the TPMS module (mounted behind the front bumper) had failed and was shorting a network line to 12v. I think the critical stuff like ECU, TCU and key module should be on their own network. Your vehicle shouldn't die because an unnecessary module near the exterior was damaged!
That shared network is a good thing, it's easy too use, and diagnose things, in most cases.... the stupid way they design things to fail is what is crazy, they probably knew exactly what will happen, and designed it too fail way after warranty... and probably this same thing will be in their next car too.
@@UmbraWeisstoo many points of failure in these Trash 🚙 vehicles
Yes it should. It's another Money Maker! If you think $80,000 is all the money Ford wants to make on each Raptor Truck they sell your dreaming. $80,000 is just the start!
This is why i drive beaters.
I think I will look for a 1995 model year for my next F150. I've had problems with the PATS in my 2010 F150 XLT. Ford is obviously hiring former F35 design engineers to put all of this technology in their vehicles. Unfortunately most of us owners don't have almost unlimited funds to keep our vehicles running like the military spends on the F35. Water getting into a taillight housing is not exactly an unexpected occurrence but obviously the engineers who designed it never thought it could happen.
I got a 96 ford f150 2wd standard shift 300cid
Hard to believe he'd be the only one. I would tell him to keep the receipt in case a safety recall gets issued .
Won't do any good.
Ford won't honor their recalls. December of 2021 and July of 2022 my wife's 2017 Ford Edge had grommet failures on the shift linkage. The recall came out right after I had the same 2nd repair done by a local transmission shop. I had rental car fees, plus the cost of the tranny shop repairs. I spoke with our local Ford dealership about the repairs in October of 2022 and they said, bring in the receipts and will forward them too Ford headquarters, they will reimburse you. This October will be 1 year and I haven't heard 💩💩!!
Also, August of last year she had a recall on the flex plate for cracking or breaking. The deadline was March 1st of this year to get it checked. We took it in February 2nd, because the wife said it was making the noise the recall paperwork described? I don't drive her car, unless she points something out. I heard the noise, took it too the same dealership I mentioned above. Their mechanic said that's normal sound coming from the vehicle??? Wtf?? Anyways, I blame myself for not going to another dealer or transmission shop. March 2023, came and went. In April we made a trip down too Cincinnati, Ohio from Michigan and thankfully made it back! The Edge was making such a loud clanking noise, you couldn't hear yourself think. Got home, took it too the same dealership. They wanted $5K to replace the flex plate?? I said, we had it here back in February because it was starting to make a slight noise & you said it was normal. Here I am with your normal broken noise now!! They said, sorry, recall won't cover that. It was just a generous recall they sent out. That's why it had a deadline. I was pissed!! I had it hauled to the transmission shop where I had the grommet fixed. They charged me $1500.00 dollar's. I was pleased with that. They fixed the flex plate, but now the auto start/stop doesn't work anymore. Anyways, Ford doesn't stand behind their vehicles.
i have sent Ford a few letters. Do you think they would answer a pee ant like me. That would be a hell no.
@@antcrow7424You really didn't have to pay anyone to do the shifting linkage recall. It only takes a couple of minutes. An oil change is more complicated.
Either way, I'll show you how to get some leverage if your dealer is playing games with you. You need to take your vehicle in for something. It doesn't mater what it is. Take it in for an oil change, or complain about a rattle that would be covered under warranty. The main goal is to get the dealer to print a new RO for whatever you take your vehicle in for. Every time a new RO is printed, a survey is automatically triggered with Ford. The dealer can't do anything about it. Sometimes its a phone survey, or email, or whatever. Its the ones where the salesperson is always begging you to give 10's on, if you were happy with how you were treated. You would not believe how serious they take these surveys. Even one bad survey is a really big deal. I've seen them close the entire service department down in the middle of the day, and they gather every employee in a big room, and management starts yelling at everyone.
Not every dealer gets treated the same way. For example, if the dealer screws up, Ford can make things more difficult by making the pre approval process on certain jobs more difficult. The point is, there are all kinds of things that go on internally, that the customers are never aware of. These surveys tie into all that.
There are 2 levels you can take it. Threating to give a bad survey would have most likely been enough to get your transmission fixed. The next level is more serious. If the dealer tampers with the survey process in order to hide things from Ford, its a big deal. If you don't get a new RO (or any RO) every time you go in, that's a problem. Sometimes they keep the RO's open and use the same number for several visits, or give you better pricing for a high score. Anything like that is survey tampering. The last time I saw someone get caught tampering, it was a 50 thousand dollar fine.
There should be enough information in this post for you to come up with something so you don't continue to get screwed over by a dealer. Also, unfortunately all dealers are different. You will not get the same answer at every dealer you go to. Sometimes a dealer will want a certain type of job, where another won't. If you think you are not getting the right answer, try different places. You can take you F150 to any dealership in the country, including a Lincoln only shop. Most of my time with Ford has been at Lincoln. You just get better service. They have higher standards. We get a lot of Mustangs, and similar types of Ford branded vehicles because they don't want a bunch of kids at a quick lane fooling with their cars.
This is why I stick to old Gen reliable models of ford, these new vehicles are such problems with so many sensor and so expensive. It's just more money for ford
@anthonycrowder7424 you need to STOP going to that dealership and find another. Even if it's an inconvenient for you.
That truck is 5 years old with 95,000 miles on it. I would be willing to bet that truck was upwards of $80,000 plus when it was new. To spend $5,600.00 on taillights? Certainly does add meaning to the term 'stealership." I guess the ol' Marquis is going to need to run forever. Great video!
Highly doubt it was $80,000 in 2018. In 2018 I bought a brand new Denali 2500 Duramax for $74,900. I highly doubt a gasser cost more than a diesel.
FK 80k for a Truck
Its not the dealerships that are the problem here. Its the damned engineers who design this junk.
@@stevenwestfall7638yes, these technicians are beating their heads against a wall trying to repair these over engineered vehicles
@@MilesIzHigh5280 in 2018 this was probably 40-50k Things have doubled in price since 2018. Well, everything but wages.
I had this happen on my truck and fixed it for $200. The OEM LED taillights are known to crack and let in moisture which causes all electronics to go haywire. I ordered a set of aftermarket lights on eBay, plugged them in, and unprogrammed BLIS and rear cross traffic alert via forscan. Do NOT plug in the BLIS modules to your new aftermarket tails. Worked perfect and much better than spending $7,000 Canadian.
Love FORSCAN I got it for my 13 F150 totally worth it.
Smart man 😊
To much money man
Better yet, just don't buy Ford junk!
@pbear216 all these auto makers order parts from the same people. This is why everything has electric power steering, the modules are made by the same companies. This was proven while TFL was messing around with awd systems on small suv's. It's all junk nowadays, they just look slightly different.
I retired after 12+ years, from managing test labs at the biggest IT company on the planet, Before that I did 26+ years as a certified master mechanic, Diagnosis and test methodologies are my thing, either in the lab, the shop or at the race track.
No doubt these sensors add safety and peace of mind in brain numbing traffic of today, but the cost to repair one failed items is also why I make bank restoring and building older vehicles for customers. I add in many modern items like fuel injection, brake systems and audio/video systems to give some of the bells and whistles these new rides have but without all the CAN-BUSS headaches that, like this issue can cascade through-out the other systems. I must tip my hat to Brian - he really earns his pay!
Techs like him are hard to find and keep, Hope you all appreciate the effort he has put into becoming a fantastic FoMoCo (and I bet many others makers rides) technician! Well Done Sir-- WELL DONE!
Definitely have repaired this exact concern lots of times. I keep telling my customers. Fancy packages carry some pretty extreme repair costs. Thanks for posting!
If I had one of those I'd pull the tail light and pull that BLIS module to make sure the seal isn't corroded and there is no water, then I'd grease that seal with silicone type grease to keep further corrosion from happening.
Pretty poor design, that is not made to last... can't seal corroded aluminum.
Exactly 💯 💯
What do you mean fancy packages? Newer cars??
@@sl4983 You only get the LED taillights on high spec truck packages - if this wasn't a platinum F-150 it would have $3 incandescent bulbs still and it would be a much cheaper part to replace. I wonder if he could have downgraded and saved some cash - might have to replace a harness because the connectors are different but probably a lot cheaper fix.
@@bubba99009 Oh ok thanks. Are you a mechanic btw?
This is exactly why I drive a 2000 Lexus ES300 and a 1996 Ford E250 with an I6.
I literally couldn’t afford a new vehicle, let alone the repairs!
I’m only 25 and I could already see the writing on the wall with newer cars as time went on. Absolutely tragic. Pretty soon the car market is going to look like the farmer’s tractor market. Old tractors you can work on go for twice as much as new tractors with failing computers.
I will not drive a vehicle less than 15 years old… ever.
@@Smokeythewelder pushin 20 years and I dread the thought of having to "upgrade" someday. They've been putting out some real garbage for a long time now.
It’s insane how complicated things have become
Gotta have all those fancy cab luxuries 🙄
They force you to want them
@@xlargetophat it used to be, power steering/brakes, a/c auto tranny were all u need(its all i need).
@@oldcarnocar yeah. A new EV with 1 motor.. no AC or heater. No sensors. Just battery management and battery cooling.
Ram 1500 classic simple truck no problems 😊 🛻👍
Thank you for your work, man! There are cases in US called “right to repair”. I guess it was connected with Apple and John Deere. In both cases the manufacturer over complicated to ability to repair their product. USA is a great country for protecting customer against those practices, so I guess in the future more cases like yours will appear with many products. So eventually consumers and fair craftsman like you will be protected from mess like this. We just need to make those problems public. Like you do. So you are not only repairing a truck, you are changing the future. So thank you!
Great advice to use the silicone dielectric grease. I do NO electrical repairs without stuffing all connectors with this grease. Not only does it deny oxygen and moisture access to the contact plating, it also lubricates the contacts to prevent mechanical plating erosion from vibration.
But at the metal to metal contact between the two surfaces of the plug and connector there isn’t dielectric grease, otherwise it would block the electrical current. Correct?
@@jasonborne5724 Absolutely correct. The contact is metal to metal at the molecular level and the grease would insulate the contact *if it could*. What happens is that the dielectric grease gets pushed aside at the contact point(s) but surrounds the contact points with a barrier that excludes air, moisture, and any contaminates.
I put dielectric grease recently on an Audi TT led rail lamp in an effort to prevent corrosion and 2 weeks later it came back with the tail lamp not working! Had to clean the connectors off for it to work again.
@@powayimports4175 I've seen they happen when the plating is already compromised. Change the socket and anything that comes in contact with it.
@@powayimports4175
Now everything is run by computer modules if water get in through the light the car or trucks won be running. that is crazy.
I retired from my auto repair business in 2011 and glad I did. Module Hell today ! Thank you for for all you show us. Saved my butt a few times 🙏👍🏻 Always enjoy your videos !
Just unbelievable… both the costs… AND your abilities!!!
You describe it all so well, and your honesty is the best part!!!
When I asked my insurance company why my premiums are skyrocketing this was one of the reasons. I have no tickets for 15 years
As one of my instructors once said "Believe it or not, having a ton of issues when it comes to electrical usually means you have a single common problem, making it easier to solve."
When there are a lot of issues, look for what they have in common.
JAGUAR HAS ENTERED THE CHAT
Aunt cracked her 2017 Ram rear taillight, cost about 3k to fix, those sensors are worthlessly expensive.
"locate fees" sounds like one hell of a racket, especially when they now won't stock these replacement parts, i wouldn't be surprised if a stealerships answer is "just buy a new one"
Yeah, that’s the first I have heard of that😂.
If honestly tell them where to put that locate fee after buying an $80k vehicle that gets disabled in the rain
Especially since inventory is all electronic now. License to steal basically.
I'm assuming the locate fee was from a third party that does that kind of thing. There are places that will try to find parts from places like salvage yards for a fee. I think the dealer would just tell you sorry they are on back-order and we can order them but can't tell you when or if we'll actually get them in. Fee or not they aren't going to find them for you they'll just tell you tough luck.
@@bubba99009 Some dealers I've heard like to hoard certain items that are on backorder, I heard about it with Chevrolet's 5.3/6.2 lifter issues. I'm not sure how FORD is but I believe GM has the ability for one dealership to check the inventory of the entire lot of nationwide dealerships as far as I am aware, and then you can request/buy parts from another dealership through their parts department. Not so for FORD?
Showing this video to my high school auto shop students in our electrical unit. True diag separates the technician from the mechanic. Well done.
true diag ? not a mechanic. by name, a mechanic fixes mechanical things. this is electrical/computer engineering. not the same thing. theyve taken it all away from the mechanics, and handed it over to the computer nerds. good luck with that.
Had almost the same problem with an F-150. HS network was down so you can imagine how many modules that was. Spent an absurd amount of time trying to figure out which module was causing it until I finally started unplugging everything one by one, it ended up being the ABS module. The unplug method, works every time.
Classic fault isolation technique.
I went through this exact issue. The idea of a little water taking down the entire truck is insane. I love my 2017 F150 Platinum but this almost made me sell it.
For those wondering, disconnecting the battery for half a day, cleaning drying, and greasing several 20 pin connectors (relating to the tailight) and replacing the entire tailight including the BLIS module finally fixed it. I also drilled a tiny weep hole in the lens of the new light so water couldn't collect in there and work it's way into the BLIS module - used a clear caulk to seal the module into the taillamp body too. It was insane gremlins all over the truck till I fixed it. Utter bullshit!
I really appreciate you making this video. There is a lot of confusion out there on this issue.
*weep hole* was my comment on Louis Rossmann channel. that's why i'm here. Louis posted the story i came to see story
Built Ford tough
Fix Or Repair Daily
......... never goes out of style@@87wxdiaz
Ford should be on the hook for this. Bad design
1995 and older for me from now on..........emissions can go to hell. Its MY vehicle, I WILL keep it running affordably.
Uncle Tony sent me. You would think for all the money that Ford charges for these vehicles, they could do a better job of sealing the tail lights and electrical connectors! That's just horrible ☹️
They’re in the business of selling parts too.
I think I'd be drilling some drain holes in the new lights.. 😂
@@peterfitzpatrick7032 Yes, for sure.
@@peterfitzpatrick7032 I once did that for both tail lights on an ‘85 Plymouth Reliant wagon, and had no problems after that.
They all do the same. It has become legal extortion.
The new vehicles are so expensive because they are sticking mini datacenters in there. With manufacturers knowing that you would think that weatherproofing would be more of a concern, but then again you won't get to sell as many parts. Well executed and methodical troubleshooting on your part!
Anything involving a vehicle, the prices are out of control. That's what makes your videos so invaluable to average income people, people who $5600 is not sensible to fix tail lights of all things. Thanks for doing what you do.
I think.... prices like that is why Right to Repair is SOO important.
Right to repair doesn't counteract the $1,200 tail lamp housing cost.
Right to repair doesn’t mean you know how to repair. They’re making them so complicated you have to be a computer/electronics expert to understand. Late model vehicles are being totaled out due to outrageous parts cost or inability to diagnose
For the price of these parts the electronics should be bomb proof. Of course the manufacturer only cares about getting through the warranty period, nothing these days is built to last much past that
Right to repair allows you to take it where you wish.
Especially when they are 700 for a pair of you buy them off google
I worked at a high line dealership when HID headlights first came out. A customer would come in with a burned out headlight and expect it to be a $5.00 bulb. When the bulb would short out it would take out the bulb, ballast and igniter in the headlamp.
To get to the headlamp out to repair you had to remove bumper and replace the parts. It was sticker shock to the customer to know it was going to cost $1000 to get the headlight working. The repair cost was mostly parts.
I think most people need to see what a repair bill for all this fancy stuff costs before they buy a top trim new car.
If they did, let's just say I don't think as many people would loom down on then for buying a low trim model or a used car instead.
Gm product is my guess...maybe a caddy?
Yep, went to change the headlamp on my car and discovered I had to take off the bumper. Talk about BS designs. These vehicles are ridiculous. Soon enough everyone will essentially swap out cars as often we do phones because nobody can afford to fix them (won’t be worth the cost).
I have HIDs in both my cars and I get replacement bulbs for $10 and I have never known anyone to have a ballast go. You sure you weren't just ripping your customers off? Removing a bumper usually only takes a few minutes too.
@@idahodiy
Igniter 33102-S0k-A01 $285.31
Ballast 33144-S0K-A01 $506.59
Bulb 33116-S0A-J11 $304.29
Labor 2hrs @ $100 an hour circa 1999
The bulbs were not readily available aftermarket in 1999. Still cost around $100 aftermarket from autozone..
Seen a ton of them go out on Acura TL's when they first came out.
This is why I like my simple basic plain 2005 F250 XL. The only electrical problem I’ve had was a bad alternator, failed blower resistor and a camshaft position sensor. All ez to troubleshoot & repair and parts didn’t cost an arm & leg.
Boy am i glad my 18 xlt dosen't have all the bells and whistles... Incandescent bulbs suddenly become cool again. 😂
2019 XLT here also, smarter buy than the platinum and limited long term!
I think the issue is from the BLIS modules in particular that require can bus... but yes.
Regular striped work stx / LT trucks are looking very cool. Its just a truck. Dont need all the bells n whistles. Just work.
I really miss my '96 Bronco. 155k, engine, trans, trans case all trouble free. But body rot, dead leaf springs, and other deteriorating
body parts made me give it up.
@J.W.W. I think platinum and limited are great if you get a new truck every year. If you keep for decades at a time, go with the one that has less systems that may fail
I’ll stick with my 2014 Tundra that has 169k miles on it and has never been in the shop.
It doesn’t tell me when someone is beside me, that’s what the $350 mirrors are for.
I grew up driving in the 80’s. I know to stay between the lane lines. I know not to get too close to other objects.
I guess growing up in the modern world is kinda tough.
My wife got into an accident going about 20mph in our Ford CMax Energy 2017. It had a crinkle in the hood, cracked bumper cover, damage to the crash bumper, core support, snap in replaceable radiator post, and the headlight was cracked. The car was totaled. They wrote me a check for $13k after taking some off so I could keep the car. A new headlight was a $1200-2000 depending on where it came from. I bought a used one with a broken mounting tab for $500, bought a core support for $60 shipped, crash bumper $70 shipped, $15 for the radiator post, straightened out the hood myself, scraped off the cracked paint, sanded the bare metal and feathered the sanding into the good paint and then hit it with touch up spray paint. I gave the bumper cover zip tie stitches and then bought a car bra for $100 the bra covers all the damaged areas. Also the paint cracked on the fender at the edge so I had to sand that down and hit it with touch up paint. Luckily it was only 20mm X 5mm area so it doesn’t look awful.
I spent less than $1000 to get it back on the road and about 20HRs of time.
I will be on the lookout for a used gray front bumper cover and hood but am in absolutely no rush. If it takes me 5 years to find them then it takes 5 years.
I have a Toyota Avalon. I hit a deer a few years ago. Total repair bill was &10,976. The deer strike took out the radar for the cruise control. The radar module was $900.00. The windshield also got cracked, that was another $970 because of the lane departure camera.
Did you go through your car insurance?
funny wife just had the windshield replaced in the Avalon 2018 I think it was $1100 covered by insurance glass coverage. But we had to bring it directly to the shop as they said the lane keeping needed to be recalibrated. had to take everything out of the car as they said it needed to be stock weight for the calibration, so car seats out and empty trunk...
That module on a Ford escape is almost 3 grand! Stupid!!
Imagine all the added tension & excitement for air passengers, if aircraft electrical systems were designed this way. Something as random as a passenger toilet extractor fan not working, might be a serious enough reason to request an emergency landing 😊
or water in a navigation light.
And to think there are people entertaining the idea of an all electric airplane these people don't know what they're dealing with!!!
Or worse yet, flushing the toilet and the entire jet explodes in mid-air.
A couple years ago I had a similar issue on my platinum 2016 F150. I took the taillights off, dried them, and used silicone caulk to reseal the tail lights. Everything has worked great ever since. I was lucky to find a forum post where someone described the problem and solution.
Thank you sincerely for taking the time to make this and a couple of more associated videos. It saved be a lot of money. Bushings were $7.00 from Auto Zone and the few hours of my own time saved $600 from the local wrench's estimate to replace the complete shifter tube. I smoothed out the tube where the bushings are located under the clamps, removing the casting marks and rough spots which helped chew up the original bushings. I also applied a little White Lithium grease on the tube where the bushings ride and it shifts like new.
13 years ago I purchased a 1991 Toyota Hi-Ace Diesel 4WD for $5500NZ. It is still running. I have spent around $5000 in repairs. (Mostly rust, as I take it on the beach). I will never sell it. No question, it is the best vehicle I have ever owned. The tail-lights are original.
Question are you able to buy the newer Hi-Aces over 2011 model? Here in Europe the 2011+ "pollute too much" so we don't have them I know they make them in Japan.
However Toyota has paired up with PSA Peugeot and Citroen to rebadge a Partner and call it the "Pro Ace" just a French Shitbox IMO with Toyota badges, a disgrace many customers say they buy Toyota because of quality, and they get a French car, talk about a scam.
Also a side note Volvo, people buy them because of "Quality" little do people know after 1999 Ford bought them and Shitboxes yet again, however now China has Volvo it is just Shitboxes with big wheels.
If you did not know, "Stellantis" is a auto conglomerate made up of the Crappiest car companies ever to exist destined to make the ultimate shitbox, can't wait to screw over more people with stupid repair bills.
@@heisenfeis yeah-the crappy Stellantis car, the Alfa-Romeo Giulia, was for a long time the fastest 4-door car in the Nordschleife, faster than many supercars.
It is hard to believe, but there are enough people with money, and they are ready to pay to drive the modern car with 400 hp engine, 10 airbags, leather, climate control, bose music and good brakes.
Cool life story, bro. But try to stay on topic.
Thanks for the education on new vehicles, and the motivation to keep my '95 longer.
I've got 2 vehicles a 2012 and 2009. If I can't do the work myself myself repair costs creep up to $2-3,000. Outrageous! Your videos are my 1st line of defense before I take them to the shop. Thanks for what you do.
Chevys have the same problem side detection takes the high speed network down you get random symptoms every time a lot of no starts and no power steering type stuff unplug the harness and they come right back
Good luck finding a tech who can diagnose this as well as Brian can. Most won’t be able to do it, just costing the customer money for nothing.
Time is money, dont buy stuff that you cant afford, like a lot of idiots out there popping out mistakes that they cant afford, all they need to learn is how to use a condom.
We see this frequently in the southeast where we have a huge amount of rainfall that comes down in short durations. It is so common if you come in with MS-CAN bus faults, that's become our starting point. I've also seen the equivalent failure in Rams. I'm not sure why this hasn't come up as a recall issue, especially considering other saftey related components that have such as the 360 degree camera system. If cameras warrant a recall, why don't blind spot dectection systems?
My 2010 king ranch, is in great shape inside and out. 220k miles. I keep up all maintenance on a schedule. Can't and won't pay 80K+ for a new one.
I have the same truck same year and the same issue luckily it was still under warranty.The dealer replaced everything including sensors over 5000$ in parts alone also had to have the timing chain and cam phasers replaced at 60,000 miles that was 4000$ unbelievable they did warranty everything but still ridiculous
I drive a forklift, in the plant that built that tail lamp (and headlamp). That was the P-552 program, which is now a service program. So, we only run them occasionally, when required to fill service orders. That's a High Series rear lamp, with LED's and the BLIS module. We are currently running the P-702 program, getting close to changing to MCA. By the way, that lamp was built by Ventra Lighting, (Flex-N-Gate) Sandusky, Ohio.
So what are they doing different now to prevent water infiltration into the housings. This was the root cause of the problem.
@@steadyeddie7453 I have no idea what they may be doing, to prevent water infiltration. I'm not an engineer, I'm a forklift driver.
@@672macknasby7aww, come on now, we know you know more than you say. You're a CERTIFIED forklift operator! Lol
It would be wise to refrain from using a pressure washer on any light fixtures when washing your vehicle. Body parts okay but not on plastic parts because they eventually allow water inside the components.
Should be a sticker hand wash only.
It would be wiser to design and manufacture a vehicle that will not be forced into self-destruct mode when water gets in the vicinity of the tail lamps.
@@foxwithtubesox1075Inconceivable expectations you're throwing out there 😂
Or maybe just buy a quality built vehicle? Used to be FORD but not sure anymore
Or just never take it out of the environmentally controlled garage. 😂
I bought a 2001 F150 XLT in 2000. It now has over 285000 miles on it. It hasn't been trouble free but no major issues. I live in SE Texas so salt corrosion is not an issue as long as I stay off the beach. My son-in-law thinks I should buy a new truck. This has convinced me not to do that.
Morimoto makes an awesome set of LED tail lights compatible with BLIS. I just tossed them on my f150 lariat. Nothing was wrong with my OEM set, I just wanted a more modern look and brighter lights. Typically, have sales. I paid $500, and they bought my OEM set for $240. So, $260 for the set. This is for the Gen 2 in red. Highly recommended.
My 2004 FX4 had a leak in the rear window seal that got my security module wet. $30 for a used module, and $150 to reseal the rear window. That's about my speed when it comes to repair costs. Still running strong after 200,000 miles.
My 03 did the same thing but just ruined my aftermarket amplifiers and rear window motor. My security module I think is in my dash, they must have realized it wasn't going to get wet enough there so they moved it by the leak prone back window when they redesigned them in 04!🙂. At 20 years old and being out in the Florida sun, all the seals are drying out. I just had to re-seal the windshield as the sealant had dried out in one spot and was dripping. Can't really complain with how old it is and the climate it's in.
My 2014 Grand Cherokee already had rubber parts rotting off of it about 10 minutes after the 3 year bumper to bumper warranty ran out. Windshield squirters flew off and rubber strip on the cowl dried out and started making farting noises at highway speeds until it disintegrated. The Grand cost nearly 2x what the F150 did and it's been in the shop more times in the first couple of years than the F150 has in 20. Too much plastic and too many corners cut. The new ones are quiet, smooth and get better mileage, but that does you no good on the side of the road!
Great video - give yourself more credit, the move to cycle the key and check for difference is a skilled intuitive gesture, I've watched other tech's chase their tails without getting to a common point of fault. I once spent well over 20 hours looking for an intermittent fault on a Range Rover, ultimately found a chafed wire for one of the injectors intermittently grounding as the engine torqued up on the rev range, the rocking motion tightened the harness enough to initiate contact and immediate ground resulting in full fuel dump to that cylinder. That point of contact was allowed due to the convolute tubing split - the split was directly on top of an intake manifold bolt, the wire over 3 thousand miles wore down to direct contact creating full ground and max spray as in wide open throttle on the one cylinder only happening under real load, 4 wheels on the ground and actual driving conditions. On the lift, there wasn't enough resistance on the drive train to re-create the dynamic action of torque applied by the contact on the road to reproduce the grounding fault. This one was a rough process.
I hear ya!! What I've learned over the years of being a tech is that most times it's easier to forget what you think you know and dont tunnel vision on the issue.....instead start at the very most basic.....battery voltage,wiring etc. It's amazing how many electrical faults I've discovered just by moving wires around. I got s good one for ya though....I was working on a brand new electric forklift one time that would shut down intermittently. In the end, it turned out that one pin was bent in one of the modules which would short to the one beside it. It was an unused pin and the connector still pushed on but "felt" ever so slightly different than the rest of the connectors. Your story reminded me of that one.
A most excellent tracking to the fault and perfect logic… when bean counters get to alter designs this is surely what happens to us as consumers… the manufacturers have been undersizing wires for years!!!
I had a Corolla that would turn on the oil light at idle in drive. Same type of deal. Thought I was into an engine at first.
I’m a Ford tech at a dealer. If I’m dealing with any type of network or communications issues, the very first thing I do is have a walk around the vehicle and make sure there isn’t a bunch of water in the tail lamps. I can’t even count how many times I’ve seen issues like this. It’s not just F150’s either. I’ve seen it on explorers and expeditions with the SOD-L/R behind the bumper covers too.
Why are they not sealing these lights better? That is a horrible design flaw.
They usually don’t just leak on their own. But any little crack in the lens will cause them to leak. And it doesn’t take much to crack them. They are a very brittle plastic.
@@alexpuls8219 Then they should make the plastic stronger it's a pickup truck not an ornament
@@maciejrudolfIt's plastic. Sun, heat, time, and general pollution are it's enemies. It gets brittle over time and any bump or even the vibration of the vehicle can cause cracks.
Auto manufacturers are in a rough position. They don't want to use components that fail too quickly. But have to use recyclable or biodegradable materials. Getting the balance isn't easy.
It could also be the seals. I've seen several that are warped or cracked. Not enough to be noticable, but enough to let air and moisture in. In areas with high humidity or constant rain this can cause water to build up. Better seals can be used, but they cost more. When a $1.50/unit will work fine, but a $3.00 that works better is available they'll go with the first. It doesn't seem like much but they spread that out over a couple hundred thousand cars per year and it adds up.
I just bought an 2008 F150 (FX4) with 200k miles pretty cheap and am watching all of your videos to wrap my head around what I need to do to get some good years out of it. Thanks for making these videos!
Curious how the water is getting in in the first place ….. and how that can be prevented within the new lights
yea...gonna leak again?
Drill 2 holes in the bottom and 2 holes in the top for draining and ventilation in each taillight assembly
The lens and housing are two pieces bonded together. They will almost always leak and I've resealed plenty of ford headlights and taillights over past 30+ years. From fox body mustangs to all year ford trucks it's been a problem for decades.
I run a bead of silicone sealer around the inside lip where the two pieces meet.
Easy fix.
Really.........lol..............Z
This is why extended warranties are a must for loaded vehicles.
What's a "loaded vehicle"?
They’d find a reason to deny it.
@@sl4983 One that has $5,600.00 tail lights!!
@@sl4983a vehicle with alot of options and accessories installed. Led lights, panoramic sunroof, power liftgate, safety features, expensive drivetrain
@@sl4983car with all the options. It’s like a loaded baked potato. The more options you have the more things that can break.
My 2016 has basically the same taillight assembly with the vehicle sensors. 2 years ago I noticed some inner condensation in the housings. I pulled both off and removed the radar sensors, blasted them with a heat gun on low for an hour to remove all moisture. Re-sealed all the seams with clear rtv silicone. Sealed around the screw posts (they tend to hairline crack). I had the same random everything issues. Caught mine before any corrosion. Zero issues since.
Very well done explaining the situation. Everybody owning the newer cars need to understand the complexity of the technical bells and whistles, in the event of failure, it will be $$$$ to have the issues resolved.
I would go back to basic model’s. I mean if I could find them.
And, of course, being a 2018, it’s out of warranty, even though somebody at the factory probably forgot to seal something up, which is why it leaked in the first place!
As much as I like the features in the newer vehicles, for the price of those two tail lights I can go find myself a decent early 80s bullnose F150 and a pack of $.99 bulbs for the tail lights!
I've actually seen this at a shop I Managed about a year and half ago. The customer, fortunately was only out a deductible with having extended warranty coverage. I was SHOCKED that warranty coverage it.
Makes me hug my single bulb Excursion taillight housing!
Congratulations to Brian, top tech who knows how to diagnose a failure rather than sending it back to the dealer, 👍
Electrical/Mechanical Sherlock Holmes at work👍 and I sure hope the owner of this truck realizes how fortunate he is to have this guy as a local mechanic.
Brian, Copious amounts of dielectric grease are your best friend in this case. I use it every time I pull connectors apart or change bulbs. It works.
Yep, I agree, no matter what I pull apart, if it’s electrical or electronic , I get out the dielectric grease and lube it up well!!
Too much can cause resistance
That is friggin ridiculous! I'm going to have to research my next car to find out how much tail lights, head lights and other "small" items are before I buy one
Interestingly enough, a vendor outfitting some vehicles for us had the same issue. No HVAC/erratic drive ability issues. They pulled the bed to install side boxes and never transferred the harness. Once they did, all was good. Crazy.
Excellent job! It's amazing how a bad connection or module or two can bring down the whole network. A Can-Bus circuit must have a terminating resistor at either end, and sometimes those resistors are built into modules, or sometimes they appear to be unused harness pigtails. If shorted or open those resistors can also cause severe network issues. When diagnosing multiple problems like on this F-150, always look to see if the issues are are on the same network as you did.
Hey, love your channel. Yes, automotive repair costs are out of control. I'm fortunate enough to have worked in the aviation industry as a PowerPlant and avionics tech and have worked with CAN systems for the past 24 years, one definitely needs a good electrical back ground in order to understand these new vehicles and be able to fix them. Plus the equipment/ tooling required. I've also owned my own auto repair shop and much prefer aviation, lol. Anyway, keep up the great work, and thanks for all your great info.
Great video Brian. Hands down best Ford Tech on TH-cam. Everyone Else only dreams to be as good. Don't waste your time with anyone else. This further reinforces my desire to only buy vehicles that have little to no driver assist features. For sure doesnt make vehicles more reliable.
Crazy to think I paid exactly the same amount for a near mint 2011 Ford Focus with 55K miles 6 years ago as one F150 tail lamp!
Currently at 165K trouble free miles with minimal maintenance done as my daily beater car. Everything is overly complicated these days.
A good idea is to go through and apply electrical grease to all connectors. Looks like they didn't do that at the factory.
I'm not a mechanic, but every vehicle I've worked on I've never seen grease in the connectors. Definteky need to do that to the Transit since Ford is so smart to direct the water flow right on top of the main harness connection. Never Ford again
@@albowrx Back in the old days they used to put grease on everything, especially lightbulbs. These days automakers cheap out on everything.
Auto makers these days are all about building a vehicle as cheaply as possible, while selling it for the highest possible price. Nothing else matters to them.
@@albowrx As a now retired aircraft electrical systems guy, who did side jobs in automotive shops from time to time, dialectric grease on electrical connections to prevent corrosion on electrical connections with the potential for moisture exposure used to be the norm for aircraft and motor vehicles. Now the car manfactures seem to have forgone using it. They tend to seal things a little better than they used too, but corrosion is still an issue quite often. Other than cost I have no idea why things have changed in the automotive industry.
@@SmittySmithsonite But hey! they saved 19 cents per vehicle by not doing that, so big win.
Thanks so much for explaining the daily complications of modern-day vehicles to the public.
Wow...just unbelievable. Just saw a 67 Ford custom with a 427 and a 4 speed... Beautiful simplicity. Gotta ask yourself, what the hell are these auto makers doing lately
Just like the government.
Ripping you off ... slowly. Death by a thousand cuts goes the saying.
Auto makers are putting unneeded BS into cars since consumers demand every damned thing and because of big brother in Washington DC. This is why I have a hatred for modern vehicles, as someone who is Gen Z, wouldn’t loose too much sleep if all modern vehicles suddenly went to the crusher tomorrow. Modern vehicles really are pieces of ****.
we own a 20 expedition. We hit a small bird on the front headlight while traveling. We waited six weeks for a new unit, that was the good news, bad news was $1,900 for the headlight plus labor. At least we aren't driving a triton anymore.
You are a phenomenal technician and I am glad you have been able to build an awesome business on your own. Also, seeing issues like this does not give me any confidence in vehicle technology moving forward. And this is also why I generally stay away from higher trim level vehicles. We keep ours for a long time and like to avoid any extra gadgetry that is only present on those higher trims.
10 years from now it's olsolete and unfixable. Still be 70s 80s 90s trucks running though.
@@TrashLeftiesI've been telling people those new trucks won't last ten years, blessed if they did. Crazy that I once had a mechanic tell me those new ones are built better to last.....they can last 200k miles but the risks of expensive issues is too ridiculous.
Good reason to buy an older car and keep up on the maintenance. My old Suburban is still going strong. An added bonus is that it's paid for!
This is why I keep my 2000 Expedition. The 2V 4.6 will probably outlive me. 297 000 miles and runs great.
I have an 02 E.B Expedition. It's a tank with 158k on the clock.
As long as you keep oil in it, that 4.6 will last forever 😂 I ain't even a Ford guy but those are hella reliable enginea
@secondgensilverado8752 Amen ....I've been good with the fluid changes and so far so good. Still the original transmission too!
A good honest mechanic like you is hard to find nowadays
Im Germany the repairshops take 375 Euro per hour wage
Great video! I agree, new car/truck repairs even for the DYI is absurdly expensive. Modules/Computers belong in your phone or PC not cars and trucks. I deal with this often on HD Trucks, too many modules that affect everything.