Great channel. I've binged watched this weekend and have to say ignore the armchair critics. I've been a brother of the brush for 25 years and I respect your methods to achieve the desired finish. I did invest (alot) in dustless sanding, spraying equipment and top notch new equipment atound 10 years ago but I still love the brush and roller and taking my time on a job. It isn't always about racing to the finish line, perfection takes time. Keep up the great work and I hope the channel goes from strength to strength. All the best.
Cheers Mate.. I've always gone for a neat tidy finish over getting home 5 minutes earlier... Also as soon as you try to rush or cut corners it bites back... Customers appreciate a good job.. and recommendations are what you need in this game..
I cant get how you managed to get that depth of finish in 1 coat. I did all my door frames in this stuff about 4 years ago. Used there 2 in 1 primer after spening hours sanding and degreasing over very old oil based gloss. Was a synthetic brush though as didnt know any better then. I had to do 3 top coats. I rememeber even ringing dulux for advice and followed their instructions to the letter. Really enjoy your vids
Do you ever use a conditioner/ Floetrol with your satinwood to help it stay open/flow ? I use a lot of the Dulux water base satinwood and find it helps keep it wet longer to work with ? Fantastic work as usual 👍
Great job as usual mate..........how long would that have taken you if you hadn't been stopping to film. One coat on the walls and woodwork looked fine but I always default to two. Never used the QD satinwood........is it okay over old oil based paints or does it need a barrier? Cheers Dave 👍👍
Roughly 2 maybe 2 and half days... usually do two coats myself but always down to what the customer wants... as long as its old gloss and degreased sanded down.. should be fine. need to block out yellowing stains e.g. nails or knots. thanks
Diamond satinwood is the better option mate. After prep use the Dulux quick dry undercoat. It’s a great adhesion promoting primer. Its just the Sikkens water based ( BL ) primer. Then two coats diamond satinwood. When it’s fully cured, few days, it’s rock solid. Try it.
Hi there just starting painting I know you use different size brushes for size of job but how many brushes can I get away with for emulsion and gloss also do I need different brushes for satinwood or can I use emulsion brushes, basically do I need different brush for different colours etc, long winded question but could you break it down for us as I’m finding the brush thing bit confusing thx?
We have different brushes for oil paints.. some for dark colours and some for whites and lighter colours.. but water based paints are different because you wash them out after every use.. oil brushes we keep in a pot of water.. we buy a selection box of brushes.... We also have both types synthetic and pure bristle... Thanks
Your better mixing the smallest amount just to see how they react with each other... As long as they are both water based it should be fine .. I tried mixing Zinsser 123... With Zinsser 123 plus... And it reacted and went solid... So best checking first .. thanks
It always amuses me when people use the argument when it comes to synthetic or pure bristle. "which one came first" like that means it will be better. It's like saying a car with wooden wheels from the 1900s is better than car now days, technology evolved. They evolved the paint to a water based wood work so they evolved the brush to suit it. To me it worked, i do find Pure bristle is better for oil and synthetic is better for water based. But at the end of the day a good painter and decorator can make both work, which you demonstrated.
I use more pure bristle brushes than synthetic... I prefer pure bristle.. they also don't go out of shape.. it amuses me how you can compare brushes and paints to cars.. sometimes things don't change for the better... Like I said depends what water based paints your using and what surface your applying your paint to . I have both types... Synthetic are cheap to produce... That's why they flood the market with them.. but I don't mind using them when I find it's necessary.. let's compare them to CDs. And vinyl records... More accurate... Cheers mate..
Them cheap hamiltom synthetic brushes r crap for woodwork, there's plenty of good soft synthetic brushes out there u just got pay up more for them,no need for pure bris brushes no more,
Every need for pure bristle and they will never die out trust me.. synthetic may get a little softer the more you pay but still not worth the money... That's why Hamilton are worth buying because they are cheap.. synthetic brushes are over priced and companies are making a killing on them... Can't beat a well made pure bristle more expensive to make... So on with the cheap easy way... People wil wake up to this at some point... Both types of brush are needed but they need to be priced accordingly. Cheers mate
I agree about the Hamiltons , not very good at all , i really like Staalmeester and find they're equally good in water and oil , still think pure bristle are excellent in oils though. On window cills i prefer to use a high quality Corona pure bristle for example.
Not tried them,just think Hamiltons r real old school back in 80s stuff,don't no any Dec's who Ave them any more,the stumpys were brilliant but they far too long new and take too much time to break in
I would never let a customer tell me whether to paint 1 coat or 2 coats.Its always 2 coats for water based paint. If a customer wants a cheap job then I'll use 1 coat of Dulux Once.
Great channel. I've binged watched this weekend and have to say ignore the armchair critics. I've been a brother of the brush for 25 years and I respect your methods to achieve the desired finish. I did invest (alot) in dustless sanding, spraying equipment and top notch new equipment atound 10 years ago but I still love the brush and roller and taking my time on a job. It isn't always about racing to the finish line, perfection takes time. Keep up the great work and I hope the channel goes from strength to strength. All the best.
Nice words from a fellow old skooler.
Cheers Mate.. I've always gone for a neat tidy finish over getting home 5 minutes earlier... Also as soon as you try to rush or cut corners it bites back... Customers appreciate a good job.. and recommendations are what you need in this game..
@@FlyingHigh99999 Thank you. 👍
An absolute master class. Thank you for sharing it.
@@tonyalways7174 you're welcome thank you.
I cant get how you managed to get that depth of finish in 1 coat. I did all my door frames in this stuff about 4 years ago. Used there 2 in 1 primer after spening hours sanding and degreasing over very old oil based gloss. Was a synthetic brush though as didnt know any better then. I had to do 3 top coats. I rememeber even ringing dulux for advice and followed their instructions to the letter. Really enjoy your vids
The painting of the skirting was a joy to watch. I'd end up with paint on the floor for sure!
Cheers mate .
This gentleman is great. Informative and educational. So thank you Sir
Thank you..
For getting rid of old dried runs and drips a skarsten blade beats anything.
Top job as usual mate 👍🏼🏴
Cheers mate..
quality work iam impressed with dulux satin definitely I give it a go love your video.
Thank you..
Do you ever use a conditioner/ Floetrol with your satinwood to help it stay open/flow ? I use a lot of the Dulux water base satinwood and find it helps keep it wet longer to work with ? Fantastic work as usual 👍
Thank you.. yes sometimes it does help.. also a drop of clean water can help.. just never contaminate the stock tin..
Well worth it, I also like a bit of owatrol in solvent gloss.
@@paulf2529 I never thin gloss with white spirit now , only use Owatrol , superb stuff.
Always thin wi turps our gaffer too tite to pay for good stuff
How much would you charge for this full room mate?
Great job as usual mate..........how long would that have taken you if you hadn't been stopping to film. One coat on the walls and woodwork looked fine but I always default to two. Never used the QD satinwood........is it okay over old oil based paints or does it need a barrier?
Cheers
Dave 👍👍
Roughly 2 maybe 2 and half days... usually do two coats myself but always down to what the customer wants... as long as its old gloss and degreased sanded down.. should be fine. need to block out yellowing stains e.g. nails or knots. thanks
Diamond satinwood is the better option mate. After prep use the Dulux quick dry undercoat. It’s a great adhesion promoting primer. Its just the Sikkens water based ( BL ) primer. Then two coats diamond satinwood. When it’s fully cured, few days, it’s rock solid. Try it.
Pure skill couldn't agree more👏
Cheers Mate
Hi there just starting painting I know you use different size brushes for size of job but how many brushes can I get away with for emulsion and gloss also do I need different brushes for satinwood or can I use emulsion brushes, basically do I need different brush for different colours etc, long winded question but could you break it down for us as I’m finding the brush thing bit confusing thx?
We have different brushes for oil paints.. some for dark colours and some for whites and lighter colours.. but water based paints are different because you wash them out after every use.. oil brushes we keep in a pot of water.. we buy a selection box of brushes.... We also have both types synthetic and pure bristle... Thanks
try johnstones aqua guard satin covers much better than dulux water based satins
Thanks will check some out.
Can I put Polly bond into weather shield paint?? Am painting railings and walls outside and the walls are all flakes!!
Your better mixing the smallest amount just to see how they react with each other... As long as they are both water based it should be fine .. I tried mixing Zinsser 123... With Zinsser 123 plus... And it reacted and went solid... So best checking first .. thanks
@@PaintingandDecorating Thanks very much for your reply most helpful 👍
It always amuses me when people use the argument when it comes to synthetic or pure bristle. "which one came first" like that means it will be better. It's like saying a car with wooden wheels from the 1900s is better than car now days, technology evolved. They evolved the paint to a water based wood work so they evolved the brush to suit it. To me it worked, i do find Pure bristle is better for oil and synthetic is better for water based. But at the end of the day a good painter and decorator can make both work, which you demonstrated.
I use more pure bristle brushes than synthetic... I prefer pure bristle.. they also don't go out of shape.. it amuses me how you can compare brushes and paints to cars.. sometimes things don't change for the better... Like I said depends what water based paints your using and what surface your applying your paint to . I have both types... Synthetic are cheap to produce... That's why they flood the market with them.. but I don't mind using them when I find it's necessary.. let's compare them to CDs. And vinyl records... More accurate... Cheers mate..
What brand of pure bristle brush do you find is the best?
Not sure of the best loads of different makes.. we use Harris or Hamilton.. but would like to try some others.. thanks
👍👍👍
Thank you.
Them cheap hamiltom synthetic brushes r crap for woodwork, there's plenty of good soft synthetic brushes out there u just got pay up more for them,no need for pure bris brushes no more,
Every need for pure bristle and they will never die out trust me.. synthetic may get a little softer the more you pay but still not worth the money... That's why Hamilton are worth buying because they are cheap.. synthetic brushes are over priced and companies are making a killing on them... Can't beat a well made pure bristle more expensive to make... So on with the cheap easy way... People wil wake up to this at some point... Both types of brush are needed but they need to be priced accordingly. Cheers mate
Afta agree to disagree mate
I agree about the Hamiltons , not very good at all , i really like Staalmeester and find they're equally good in water and oil , still think pure bristle are excellent in oils though. On window cills i prefer to use a high quality Corona pure bristle for example.
Not tried them,just think Hamiltons r real old school back in 80s stuff,don't no any Dec's who Ave them any more,the stumpys were brilliant but they far too long new and take too much time to break in
I would never let a customer tell me whether to paint 1 coat or 2 coats.Its always 2 coats for water based paint.
If a customer wants a cheap job then I'll use 1 coat of Dulux Once.
👍👍
Thank you..