I sold my best build to a friend who lost his car... I was asking for $700 ( what I put into the bike)... I got $300 2 weeks later he called me and asked for his money back and I told him okay.... I got the bike back and it's so messed up that it's going to cost me $200 to bring it back to life.... SMH..... It's hard to have good honest friends.... Got the bike back and deleted his number.... Oh and told him to never call me again....!!!! I'm so hurt to see my pride and joy in such bad condition.... Specially when I can't afford to fix it right now do to very little income due to covid... But I'm holding my head up high and fixing it half ass just to get it running again.....!! I enjoy watching your videos....it takes away my anger towards him and gives me hope to ride once again....!!! HAPPY NEW YEAR....!!
Nestor Mamarian Just get as mush AMC stock and you'll be financially happy when the stock gets to 1000+. 45 -50 at this time is a great buy and won't stay there for long before heading up. This is a no brainer - Trust me.
UPDATE: Thanks to information in the comments, I can now say with confidence that the cylinder is not deflective, and the damage was my fault. 1: Stock ring in an iron sleeve = Bad 2: Need more oil when using stock rings 3: I should have sanded the ring's edges
the break in was too harsh , go slow in break in , literally slow i used to go soooo slow during break in like real slow , like traffic slow , literally. and i used to give motor breaks used it only locally and did oil change after 300 km
YES! I got one a few months ago and it needs ALOT of grinding!! I'm still working on it in fact. Now that I've seen more of the vid, I see yours is much different than mine- mine was basically an old style jug with no bridges however, The iron sleeve was completely offset with the rest of the cylinder in every port, outlet and inlet so I am having to take like 3-4mm out of all ports and the transfers, which h were the closest match however they need a bit of cutting as well.
U don't just jump on a new motorcycle & go u let it run & get warm up & get the oil flowing before u put a load on it. I bet 2 stroke ports ( ernest would say the same )
Iron sleeve with iron rings... Friction combo. I'll look around the net for steel or Molly rings. I'm sure they're out there somewhere! Another top notch video LA. Thanks man.
I miss my 2 stroke. She died earlier this year. Float got stuck, flooded out the whole engine and popped an oil seal loop. Thought I had it drained completely when I put new seal in but I didn't and it popped the piston clips and seized up. Oh well, I still have my 49cc 4 stroke bike, still running strong. Got that on a Kent Ridgeland with Kenda Kwest tires now, the original tires wore out at 1300 miles.
Beings these scratches happened, I reccommend trying out the CDH Power big bore 49mm kit. It is also iron sleeve but comes with it's own piston and rings matched to the iron sleeve. It works perfectly with long rod engines such as the Triple 40, and I have one on mine. I can say that after removing the junk from the ports, it is the torquiest and most responsive engine I have ever put together, and infact bored it out to 75cc! It's $40 with free shipping on Amazon.
chrome cylinders are the way to go. there so cheap, if they break who cares. you can rev them up after 15 seconds of idle. they'll last over 5,000 miles if you care for your motor and dont let it get an air leak...
Just ordered the steel cylinder. Your assembly tips . Cool, I learned something. I do port match,opennings and gaskets. In winter I run 87 w/ Stehl Chainsaw oil at 25 to 1. Summertime I use 94 with the same oil. For the breakin of the new cylinder I think I'll add 2 oz of 30 weight regular oil. for the first 2 1/2 gallons, then run 25 -1. I'm working on Stehl chainsaw carburetor for the added benefit of having High and Low needle adjustment.
I have a iron sleeve on my bike. I did not do brake in period oil. Since the bottom crank case is already broken in. No problems. 2.6 oz to the gallon and runs fast.
Thanks for the info.I have that cylinder waiting for the day it's needed.I do gap the rings,and used a very fine file to take the sharpness off their edges.Guess that's why the chromes holding so far.Happy New Year everyone.
What about honing the cylinder walls before installing a brand new piston & rings , in automotive that's a must do , honing helps the new rings seat better also perhaps using engine assembly lubricant , to negate any initial start up damage , spread it on the cylinder walls .
I ran my standard aluminum cylinder a little too hard during break in and it is about as bad as this one as far as I can tell, but I made the mistake of just running 40:1 for the first run and this would've been fine if I didn't run it hard (I think) buuut of course I found myself DEEEP in the upper power band like somewhere near the end of the first tank. I check on the liner pretty frequently and it seems to not be getting much worse and it runs alright.
longer than 2 mins is not practical in my opinion... not when a g4 only takes about 30 seconds on a cold day... and a cold day for us is about 40 degrees.
Have you taken 1500 sandpaper around the edges of the rings sometimes you have to do that the rings aren't completely smooth I've had some rings come in rough
What’s the best aftermarket spark plug replacement for a Z4C plug? I’m still using a the stock plug I got with my kit a while back. I’m running 35 : 1 but next tank I’m moving to 40 for a bit more power. I bought an NGK B-6L plug, but the engine seems to be lacking power on it, especially at higher RPMS. The idle is also a bit rougher when it’s cold. For now, I’ve been using the stock plug as it runs nicer and makes more power than the replacement. When it finally fouls though, I want to know the best replacement for my engine. It’s about 6 Celsius where I live. I’ve also ordered a fat belly pipe. Other than that, the engine is stock. Love the video! Thanks, Everet
Sometimes to much air flow is bad for the motor I ones had a crack I didn't see my motor was struggling to keep up one day i decided to check the motor is when I realized it had a small crack that was causing the motor to struggle
sumtimes you can time the ports a little better by putting thicker or thinner gaskets under the foot of the cilinder raising the flushingports, and exhaust cutting some of the skirt of the piston near the intake port to have it open sooner sumtimes helps too , you need to experiment a little as sumtimes the rpm vs torque range changes as for the damage on the exhaust side : could it be that the exhaust is too short and maibe theres some junk in there that gets reflected back intoo the cilinder ? on a two stroke the exhaust pulse reflects back toward the exhaust port preventing the fresh intake gas from exiting straight out the exhaust before it closes , making a custom exhaust calculated to the size of the engine and the rpm where it should run can help a LOT allso check where the ring gaps are placed , if there to close to a port they could grab the edge of it it could allso be that broken off bits from a sharp edge on the exhaust port gets picked up and sticks in between the rings scoring the cilinder , you said you beveled those edges so those should be ok but you could take a look at the edge to see if there chunks missing under a magnifying glass the rings are usually lapped so they seal perfectly and you shouldnt bevel the edges (except maibe debur the ends a tiny bit), the rings should be (coated with) a harder material than the cilinder , cast iron rings will gouge on the cast iron cilinder , hardchromed cilinder and cast iron rings work fine when i ran a 2 stroke moped we put 1:50 mix in there (this was allso available as pumpgas) , we used 2stroke oil meant for outboards in there as it burned off better and gave less residue in the exhaust
A cast iron lower end,like the high smilage Volvo 240series,would be cheaper & very reliable. When is Honda or Yamaha going to step up and give us a solid product.?
Maybe but iron needs more oil soak & pre lube. Like a car. No ethanol. It's not as smooth as chrome. So it needs more oil 2 soak the pourise metal so it's slick enough need 2 hone it 2 fit rite 2. Just like a car. U need 2 start off with richer oil 2 soak it with plenty of oil. Iron is tougher butt not as as smoth. No syn oil. So it will break in properly. Like a new 4 stroke engine.
Hello I watch your videos all the time , but I have questions for my second build, well actually my second motor that I'm rebuilding top end on , and its a lot of stuff I need to ask . I have a Zeda Firestorm 80 I believe that's the triple 40 , I want to keep it stock except for the exhaust and carb (for slight performance , any suggestions ? and ty
Cool video. Have you had any experience with the “hp” 2 stroke carborator. I got on in the mail and ran like crap. I read some things on the internet and they said to put the stock jet in it. I did and played with the idle screw and it still sucked on power. Any suggestions?
UPDATE engine is locked up....took me 3 hours to unlock it....the jug has deep scratches....I think he ran it with no oil.... I gave him a quart of options ($25l) never got it back.... fuel cap missing and rust in tank.... smh... everything is rusted out...lesson learned...don't sell bikes to friends....
Ahhh shit! I was so excited to see this since I have purchased a steel sleeve cylinder and piston from ebay and was expecting no wear on yours...I haven't installed mine yet as it is winter here and I am waiting till spring...also got a flex exhaust and trigger lock clutch lever,, It doesn't make sense, a steel cylinder should be more durable than chrome lined aluminum one...not happy with this result so far...confusing...
Update: Summer is here and I have installed the iron sleeve cylinder, dozen or so hard rides at very high rpm (new tune) and so far so good...it came with the better kind of wrist pin clips (last piston/cylinder dead due to shitty clip) I run 40:1 Redline Racing oil with break in being 1 tank easy riding. Flex exhaust on and promptly broke off its mounting bracket...
So I’m building a motorized bike right now and I was wondering if it ok if the carburetor is closer to the head of the motor than normal and if it’s ok if the carb is tilted slightly. Also is it ok if I remove the piece that guides the clutch wire so I can fit the carb in my bike?
So long as it's not touching the head you can mount it as close as you want. They can also tolerate a little bit of tilt and still run fine. Anything past 30 degrees may start to have issues with flooding, leaking, and performance.
@@LAHover and what about the little piece that guides the clutch wire? It’s usually under the carb but I took it off so the carb could fit is that fine?
I’m new to these motors can someone please give me links I need a new cylinder and piston may someone please give me links on the the best one and the piston that fits it
Can I send you a crazy ported cylinder and shaved piston to try on your engine for me ? I won’t be riding my bike for a while so parts are sitting and I’d rather see them in a video experiment because No one will buy them
I sold my best build to a friend who lost his car... I was asking for $700 ( what I put into the bike)... I got $300
2 weeks later he called me and asked for his money back and I told him okay.... I got the bike back and it's so messed up that it's going to cost me $200 to bring it back to life....
SMH.....
It's hard to have good honest friends....
Got the bike back and deleted his number....
Oh and told him to never call me again....!!!!
I'm so hurt to see my pride and joy in such bad condition....
Specially when I can't afford to fix it right now do to very little income due to covid...
But I'm holding my head up high and fixing it half ass just to get it running again.....!!
I enjoy watching your videos....it takes away my anger towards him and gives me hope to ride once again....!!!
HAPPY NEW YEAR....!!
Sounds like he was never really a friend to start out with. Sorry to hear that man :( Good luck in 2021
Watch when you fix it you’ll come back stronger the before I
Nestor Mamarian Just get as mush AMC stock and you'll be financially happy when the stock gets to 1000+. 45 -50 at this time is a great buy and won't stay there for long before heading up. This is a no brainer - Trust me.
I don't own a motorized bicycle but I love watching your videos. You are clear and calm and it's very enjoyable.
UPDATE: Thanks to information in the comments, I can now say with confidence that the cylinder is not deflective, and the damage was my fault.
1: Stock ring in an iron sleeve = Bad
2: Need more oil when using stock rings
3: I should have sanded the ring's edges
My suggestion: jaguar cdi, raising 1 mm the exhaust then jetting should do the work
the break in was too harsh , go slow in break in , literally slow
i used to go soooo slow during break in like real slow , like traffic slow , literally.
and i used to give motor breaks used it only locally and did oil change after 300 km
But u need the rest 2. Like ur truck it would need less repair & last longer if u give it more time 2 warm up when it's cold.
YES! I got one a few months ago and it needs ALOT of grinding!! I'm still working on it in fact. Now that I've seen more of the vid, I see yours is much different than mine- mine was basically an old style jug with no bridges however, The iron sleeve was completely offset with the rest of the cylinder in every port, outlet and inlet so I am having to take like 3-4mm out of all ports and the transfers, which h were the closest match however they need a bit of cutting as well.
U don't just jump on a new motorcycle & go u let it run & get warm up & get the oil flowing before u put a load on it. I bet 2 stroke ports ( ernest would say the same )
Ooooohh interesting! Very interested in this thank you! Reliability is a definite plus.
Iron sleeve with iron rings... Friction combo. I'll look around the net for steel or Molly rings. I'm sure they're out there somewhere!
Another top notch video LA. Thanks man.
Thanks! ya I had no idea about the stock rings :( If I find better rings I'll retest it with a new G5
@@LAHoverso if stock rings can’t be used with the iron sleeve, then where could I find compatible piston rings. I’m so confused now
I miss my 2 stroke. She died earlier this year. Float got stuck, flooded out the whole engine and popped an oil seal loop. Thought I had it drained completely when I put new seal in but I didn't and it popped the piston clips and seized up. Oh well, I still have my 49cc 4 stroke bike, still running strong. Got that on a Kent Ridgeland with Kenda Kwest tires now, the original tires wore out at 1300 miles.
Beings these scratches happened, I reccommend trying out the CDH Power big bore 49mm kit. It is also iron sleeve but comes with it's own piston and rings matched to the iron sleeve. It works perfectly with long rod engines such as the Triple 40, and I have one on mine. I can say that after removing the junk from the ports, it is the torquiest and most responsive engine I have ever put together, and infact bored it out to 75cc! It's $40 with free shipping on Amazon.
@@MikeNBikes mind you that this was 2 years ago and I assure u that they did at least at some point. I measured.
You should make a video on how to maintain a motorized bike like cleaning,greasing, things to look for ECT... For new builders
"Marian"?....do you mean maintain?
He did.
@@bryduhbikeguy what vid
I think he did partially because of your comment
Good thing about that tho is it’s steel sleeved so you should beable to to rehone it and it should be good as new
Still sleeve is way too thin
chrome cylinders are the way to go. there so cheap, if they break who cares. you can rev them up after 15 seconds of idle. they'll last over 5,000 miles if you care for your motor and dont let it get an air leak...
Just ordered the steel cylinder. Your assembly tips . Cool, I learned something. I do port match,opennings and gaskets. In winter I run 87 w/ Stehl Chainsaw oil at 25 to 1. Summertime I use 94 with the same oil. For the breakin of the new cylinder I think I'll add 2 oz of 30 weight regular oil. for the first 2 1/2 gallons, then run 25 -1. I'm working on Stehl chainsaw carburetor for the added benefit of having High and Low needle adjustment.
I have a iron sleeve on my bike. I did not do brake in period oil. Since the bottom crank case is already broken in. No problems. 2.6 oz to the gallon and runs fast.
Good to hear! I some times wonder if we over think break in stuff lol. Ride safe builder!
@@LAHover thanks man.
Thanks for the info.I have that cylinder waiting for the day it's needed.I do gap the rings,and used a very fine file to take the sharpness off their edges.Guess that's why the chromes holding so far.Happy New Year everyone.
Don't use the stock rings like I did. I needed softer rings for iron sleeves.
It needs a good heavy pre lube. Like a 4 stroke. Like when build a car engine.
What do you mean? Pre lube what, the cylinder wall?
@@BEEBEE159 yes molly engine prelube. Like u do a truck engine. I f u don't it'll burn the engine up
Reliability with iron sleeves are world class it also easy to cool
I think that iron liner would reduce the ringing noise a bit.
Thank-you LA Hoover you've been a big help
What about honing the cylinder walls before installing a brand new piston & rings , in automotive that's a must do , honing helps the new rings seat better also perhaps using engine assembly lubricant , to negate any initial start up damage , spread it on the cylinder walls .
Probably a good idea. With as cheap as these are any little bit helps.
I ran my standard aluminum cylinder a little too hard during break in and it is about as bad as this one as far as I can tell, but I made the mistake of just running 40:1 for the first run and this would've been fine if I didn't run it hard (I think) buuut of course I found myself DEEEP in the upper power band like somewhere near the end of the first tank. I check on the liner pretty frequently and it seems to not be getting much worse and it runs alright.
I sort of knew I was making a mistake when I was mixing the gas but uhh yeah.
If you go to a G2 Reed valve you can get 32 mm intake tube to hook your oko
Love the ride dude
Good video.... great lesson learned 👍👌
I just stay with the engine with the 3x3 dots on one side and the 2x3 on the other which is the g4 cylinder
U should do more warm up than that 4 ur truck. Especially in the winter. That's a killer 4 any engine
longer than 2 mins is not practical in my opinion... not when a g4 only takes about 30 seconds on a cold day... and a cold day for us is about 40 degrees.
Love your videos, Greetings from Mexico
Awesome! Thank you!
Try a chromoly cylinder I've got no damage no no scratches or anything inside of my jug
I’m getting a motor with a ceramic cylinder. How old is your jug?
@@Jeff_Green new
@@Jeff_Green zada firestorm they come with all the kits
@@Jeff_Green no chrome flake
@@Jeff_Green I have some videos posted over there nice on my channel it's under Willard Buchanan showing with the inside cylinder looks like
You may need to look at your jetting in carb. Little more fuel will cool it down some. Need to read the spark plug to tell you how it’s running.
It's running rich. The issue was pinned in the comments if you are interested.
Have you taken 1500 sandpaper around the edges of the rings sometimes you have to do that the rings aren't completely smooth I've had some rings come in rough
Nope, I forgot to do this...
Spray glue apiece of 220 to a piece of glass and reduce the deck of your cylinder to reduce your squish band
Use wet & dry 220 then go up to 400. With some light oil.
What’s the best aftermarket spark plug replacement for a Z4C plug? I’m still using a the stock plug I got with my kit a while back. I’m running 35 : 1 but next tank I’m moving to 40 for a bit more power. I bought an NGK B-6L plug, but the engine seems to be lacking power on it, especially at higher RPMS. The idle is also a bit rougher when it’s cold. For now, I’ve been using the stock plug as it runs nicer and makes more power than the replacement. When it finally fouls though, I want to know the best replacement for my engine. It’s about 6 Celsius where I live. I’ve also ordered a fat belly pipe. Other than that, the engine is stock. Love the video! Thanks, Everet
NGK B5HS most of the year, B6HS if your winters stay below freezing.
@@LAHover Sounds good, I’ll try that. Thanks for the quick response.
Sometimes to much air flow is bad for the motor I ones had a crack I didn't see my motor was struggling to keep up one day i decided to check the motor is when I realized it had a small crack that was causing the motor to struggle
sumtimes you can time the ports a little better by putting thicker or thinner gaskets under the foot of the cilinder raising the flushingports, and exhaust
cutting some of the skirt of the piston near the intake port to have it open sooner sumtimes helps too , you need to experiment a little as sumtimes the rpm vs torque range changes
as for the damage on the exhaust side : could it be that the exhaust is too short and maibe theres some junk in there that gets reflected back intoo the cilinder ?
on a two stroke the exhaust pulse reflects back toward the exhaust port preventing the fresh intake gas from exiting straight out the exhaust before it closes ,
making a custom exhaust calculated to the size of the engine and the rpm where it should run can help a LOT
allso check where the ring gaps are placed , if there to close to a port they could grab the edge of it
it could allso be that broken off bits from a sharp edge on the exhaust port gets picked up and sticks in between the rings scoring the cilinder , you said you beveled those edges so those should be ok but you could take a look at the edge to see if there chunks missing under a magnifying glass
the rings are usually lapped so they seal perfectly and you shouldnt bevel the edges (except maibe debur the ends a tiny bit), the rings should be (coated with) a harder material than the cilinder , cast iron rings will gouge on the cast iron cilinder , hardchromed cilinder and cast iron rings work fine
when i ran a 2 stroke moped we put 1:50 mix in there (this was allso available as pumpgas) , we used 2stroke oil meant for outboards in there as it burned off better and gave less residue in the exhaust
A cast iron lower end,like the high smilage Volvo 240series,would be cheaper & very reliable.
When is Honda or Yamaha going to step up and give us a solid product.?
Maybe but iron needs more oil soak & pre lube. Like a car. No ethanol. It's not as smooth as chrome. So it needs more oil 2 soak the pourise metal so it's slick enough need 2 hone it 2 fit rite 2. Just like a car. U need 2 start off with richer oil 2 soak it with plenty of oil. Iron is tougher butt not as as smoth. No syn oil. So it will break in properly. Like a new 4 stroke engine.
Hey for your Zeda 100 have you thought about making scoops for the sides to funnel more air to it? I'm unable to ride due to the 1+ft of snow we got.
I like the idea.
eBay sells a 48mm silver g4 cylinder high Piston by MZ Miami 35 dollars + 11.65 shipping.bigger Piston more power
Hello I watch your videos all the time , but I have questions for my second build,
well actually my second motor that I'm rebuilding top end on , and its a lot of stuff I need to ask . I have a Zeda Firestorm 80 I believe that's the triple 40 , I want to keep it stock except for the exhaust and carb (for slight performance , any suggestions ? and ty
To much for a comment. Hit me up on discord, or ask some of the builders in the discord server.
For carb look into arbeo 15.15 get the real one not a fake and also get a dirtbike pipe and send it to Steve Luenz he will make it work for your bike
Cool video. Have you had any experience with the “hp” 2 stroke carborator. I got on in the mail and ran like crap.
I read some things on the internet and they said to put the stock jet in it. I did and played with the idle screw and it still sucked on power. Any suggestions?
I have not used one yet sorry.
The air filter that comes with the hp carb is too restrictive
UPDATE
engine is locked up....took me 3 hours to unlock it....the jug has deep scratches....I think he ran it with no oil.... I gave him a quart of options ($25l) never got it back.... fuel cap missing and rust in tank.... smh... everything is rusted out...lesson learned...don't sell bikes to friends....
I prefer the iron sleeve it has enough meat you can hone it back down.
Maybe put a low hole Piston on that engine so it sits higher in the cylinder so more compression cheaper than a hi comp head.
replace the piston and rings and bead hone the cylinder
that piston should be fitted to the cylinder in the honing process
Can you touch base on what kind of (quality) oil to run on one of these !
I'm not picky, but Lucas is solid. Also keep an eye out for brands that put fuel stabilizer in their oil. That can pay off when you are not riding :)
Can i ask from what material you make the gasket?(bottom)
insert sleave of ss42 grade harden steal and enjoy this little engine life long
Ahhh shit! I was so excited to see this since I have purchased a steel sleeve cylinder and piston from ebay and was expecting no wear on yours...I haven't installed mine yet as it is winter here and I am waiting till spring...also got a flex exhaust and trigger lock clutch lever,, It doesn't make sense, a steel cylinder should be more durable than chrome lined aluminum one...not happy with this result so far...confusing...
Update: Summer is here and I have installed the iron sleeve cylinder, dozen or so hard rides at very high rpm (new tune) and so far so good...it came with the better kind of wrist pin clips (last piston/cylinder dead due to shitty clip) I run 40:1 Redline Racing oil with break in being 1 tank easy riding. Flex exhaust on and promptly broke off its mounting bracket...
So I’m building a motorized bike right now and I was wondering if it ok if the carburetor is closer to the head of the motor than normal and if it’s ok if the carb is tilted slightly. Also is it ok if I remove the piece that guides the clutch wire so I can fit the carb in my bike?
So long as it's not touching the head you can mount it as close as you want. They can also tolerate a little bit of tilt and still run fine. Anything past 30 degrees may start to have issues with flooding, leaking, and performance.
@@LAHover and what about the little piece that guides the clutch wire? It’s usually under the carb but I took it off so the carb could fit is that fine?
Mabe since it is an iron cylinder really needed 16/1 cause the ironiss porous
more oil=leaner fuel mix. I think he needed to go 40:1 out the gate.
you need more oil with iron Zelda. 40:1 would have likely left me walking home.
That's what I was thinkin,maybe sharp edged rings.Good luck
Thank you
Also love the videos.
I’m new to these motors can someone please give me links I need a new cylinder and piston may someone please give me links on the the best one and the piston that fits it
sorry for the late reply. do you know if you have the high hole, or low hole piston?
The piston rings are also made from iron. Typically, the highest quality metal that exists in a bike kit.
Chinese cylinders needed to phase windows , and dose of fuel need to be higher because iron worst gives back a temperature
sorry for my english
Scratches on only the exhaust means it ran lean
very cool dude
Thanks!
Invest in a G2 Reed valve it's a perfect match
I do not know where it is maintained in Egypt and I do not understand the videos because I speak Arabic 😥
Good video cuz I thought a iron would work and take way more
Bgf is good stuff I got g4 cylinder
Its steel. Ethan made a point of the difference. Iron sleeves r more expensive from what ive seen.
Are you sure it's not a G4
You tell me
www.amazon.com/BGF-Upgraded-Cylinder-Include-2-Stroke/dp/B082QV5KZN
And no it “not being broken in enough” is out of the question it gets broken in by the first 3 heat cycles
@@JDBajaBlast I’m not even going to argue with dumbasses at this point
Can I send you a crazy ported cylinder and shaved piston to try on your engine for me ? I won’t be riding my bike for a while so parts are sitting and I’d rather see them in a video experiment because No one will buy them
Send me a DM on Discord. I'd be happy to turn them into a video :)
My cylinder my G4 is ceramic no chrome flaky
Im curious about this. Ive never heard of ceramic, isn't thats like the best skate board bearing material?
@@christianscottsuzuki it's a new threat it's a new cylinder they release this last summer spring it works just fine
@@christianscottsuzuki it's only available on The Firestorm 80cc
@@christianscottsuzuki and then you cylinder is a 48 mm and you'll need a 48 mm piston
@@christianscottsuzuki it has open transport since there's a square ones
I also run 32 : 1 ratio Lucas synthetic smokeless oil
Here is the second video on trimming wrist pin clip ears th-cam.com/video/KFWcA08aTCM/w-d-xo.html
Damm😭
That sucks