Good tips about using Dura Ace shifter cables. I have a 2015 Emonda with Dura Ace 9000 group set. Will definitely use the OEM cables next replacement time.
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad Just some basic stainless steel. Yes it’s winter where I live but temps can swing all over the place. Agreed, need to change the cable’s now.
My recommendation is to use good cable/housing for the rear, especially if it is a full housing system. Then when the going gets rough on the rear, change the rear cables into the front. If you need to replace both, i start by using mid tier stuff rather than the top tier. If results are sub par, i start looking for other options, but in the case you shown i think i would look into the 'ProblemSolvers' catalog to see if they have a solution for that. (Perhaps the Cross Clamp could be the pinnacle of what you are looking for)
I had sram red 10 speed cabled on my bike. Could never get the shifting right with the high tension required. Didn't really notice a different in cables either. Have to be careful if its routed under the bb with that high of tension it will eat thru the cable housing which was probably part of the issue in the bike design being that it was built for shimano originally as a pro replica. I was lucky enough this never happened but in past bike shop I used a combination of very liquid lubricants they run thru the cable before inserting it. Seemed to work well. Now on my gravel bike I just squirt some silicone spray lube into the housing near the rear derailleur and seems to help that area where the housing bends around.
Those cables are AWESOME! I used to use the standard stainless shift cables on all my bikes, and had to replace the front derailleur cable on my Ultegra 6800/105 5700 bike. Broke down and bought the polymer coated cable, and even before I connected it to the FD it ran so smoothly thru the housing. After adjusting the derailleur, shifts are super crisp and fast with the 5700 FD. Best front shifting I ever had. I would definitely buy again. Will this work on a SRAM Apex 1X11 drivetrain too?
I don’t know if it will work with SRAM. These cables are so slick if the anchor nut/washer combination aren’t good enough the cable will slip through. Shimano doesn’t recommend them on all their groups because of this slipping issue.
Having been in a hurry, I used the cheapest galvanised steel cable for my Ultegra 8000 front mec a couple of months ago. What can I say, works flawlessly and very smoothly so far, so that I felt a little stupid having ordered the 15€ Polymer cable while the other one was 23 cents.
The galvanized cable will show corrosion depending on where you live and ride. At the very least you should use Stainless Steel cables or even a coated cable from someone other than Shimano and cable grease. But for superior performance Shimano recommends the polymer cable. You do you as long as your happy with the shifting performance of your bike we can’t say peep about it 😊
I'd like to see a comparison between the Dura ace cable and the likes of jagwires or for really cheap fibrax die drawn cables witch don't rely on coatings but the die drawn process makes them smoother
Very timely topic. I just put that very Dura-Ace cable on my 105-7020 bike. The Shimano 105 cable was only a year old and it shifted great. However, I installed new carbon aero handlebars (yeah, I know 🤕) and needed new cable to thread through the frame. I snagged the Dura Ace cable on sale. I just rode the bike for the first time off the trainer on Sunday. With the new Dura Ace cable, I couldn't believe how much faster the shifting is when going down the cassette. It was just Bang! Bang! Bang! superfast. I really didn't notice it being easier shifting up the cassette. But that's probably because I'm a guy with reasonably strong hands. Much to my surprise, the Dura Ace cable shifts noticibly quicker going down the cassette. And there wasn't anything wrong with the 105 cable I took off.
I have a ten year old Tarmac with 9100 shifters and the left hand requires a lot of effort. I’ve tried several shifters and several iterations of cable routing. But I’ve never tried a coated cable. I’m gonna give this a try!
I've always used Campy cables with my Chorus setup...partially because I've seen on a number of forums "Campy gets Campy" when people talk about replacing cables. Never had any problems. I've also heard that if you use non-Campy cables, within 3 days the ghost of Tulio will attack you with a giant corkscrew...🧟
The shimano polymer cable set are the absolute best. Nothing even comes close to the lightness of shifting (and braking for that matter). Don’t worry about the “fur” that comes off the cables they do not effect performance.
I’ve found that Jagwire outer cables can contribute this - I’ve changed to using the Shimano SP41 polymer coated outers with Stainless Steel slick cables…
I still use those cables on my Colnago along with the white cable grease that Shimano makes. That Jaguar housing isn't doing you any favors either. In a pinch I would use a regular stainless Shimano cable/housing and coat the cable in the Shimano white grease. It will give you a similar result.
The bikes with only the hole never have these problems because the cable itself will cut the frame into the shape of how it comes up to the Front derailleur so the cable is more free to move. In all my bikes all the cables are pre wrapped in a thin coat of white lithium grease so that once they go in from the shifters they go in smoother but also have less issues on bends against plastic parts ( the guides under the bike for example). The hole for the front derailleur cable needs to be wide enough so the cable housing does not kink the inner cable, the angle needs to be checked and hole adjusted for that angle. On that FD the angle is much greater so either greased or slicker cable is required.
This cable guide is a hard plastic guide. The more flexible tubing allows a little deviation in the cable line from bottom bracket hole to the FD. Yes I agree with you 100% Thanks for watching
Actually I use Teflon coated cables and they are great. The cables are dipped in Teflon almost like paint, not like the DuraAce cables. They're only $6 and I'm not switching
I recently used Jagwire for rim brakes. They seem really good. I thiught they were also polymer coated? I don't know about cables for shifting, my road bikes have Di2 and my gravel bike with GRX is pretty new.
I don't think they make that much of a difference for brakes since there is a lot of leverage and the cable is fatter But for shifting I am a believer now! lol
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad I think the braking performance improved with Jagwire compared to whatever I had before, which was definitely not DuraAce level. With Ultegra calipers and with top end Reynlods pads for carbon wheels the performance = my disc brake bike (in dry conditions] and is certainly good enough when wet.
@@stuartdryer1352 Awesome! I use the stainless steel cables from Jagwire. I also have coated cables from Jagwire. I switched to the Dura-Ace cable because I needed to rule everything out before calling Shimano to help me lol!
My R9000 Felt road bike shifted incredibly when I first built it with the supplied polymer coated setup-kabam kabam kabam-light action, instant shift for over a year. Rear I’m mostly talking. Switched it out with a stainless wire…. OMG it sucks!! Shifting up the cluster it’s fine, back down it drags and hangs up badly. Going back to the polymer coated wire ASAP.
Yep people don’t like the fuzz 😂 On some bikes you can get away with using stainless steel cables but on others it is strongly recommended that if the lever push is too hard then use the Dura-Ace cable.
Polymer cables combined with SP41 housing seems to make a difference when you have continuous very tight internal routing, cables going through the headset, and tight bend at the rear derailleur. At work I see plenty of SP41 and Jagwire housings that shift fine. On my own bikes I run jagwire lex sl housing and lube it with cable magic or triflow and use a regular die drawn/slick stainless cable and it works great. Pretty much anything will work for 9speed or less. I am not convinced Shimano cable grease doesn't pick up contamination, and contribute to friction. Some advantages of a lighter dry lube like triflow, dri slide, or cable magic here, with unsealed ferules. I.e SRAM tells you to not used sealed ferules.
Good to know! They are considered Ultegra/105 level. But if it works for you with no difference you still have an upgraded cable from stainless steel and not spending the big bucks for the Dura-Ace cable
Polymer coated cables are a non brainer for any mechanical shifter or rim brake in my opinion and they don't need to be Dura Ace branded. You can get them from Decathalon and Alixpress. I have an old bike with outside cables too so a modern bike with internal cables really do need them. A spray with PTFE dry lube is good too.
I have a cheaper diamondback commuter ebike with internal cable routing. the rear 9 spd derailleur will often not play nice around the middle of cassette. properly adjusted on both ends, but it will stick and not shift near the middle, then double shift on the next click. RD Was an Altus and it had a bit of play on the main pivot, so i replaced with a Deore unit i had on hand in good condition- less play, stronger springs and it STILL did the same thing with a very slight/minor improvement. I suspect there are some rather tight bends in the shifter cable and im thinking this deserves to pull the motor and inspect the entire cable path. Short of saying screw it and routing externally (ugly) - do you think upgrading the cable will make a difference?
It might help. Internal routing of cables is a stupid idea. External cables are always a better, simple and elegant for everything - shifting, inspection, troubleshooting, maintenance, packing your bike for travel.
Without digressing too much. My front right Shimano Ultegra STI 10 speed RS 6800 mech. shifters, (yes I know I still run 10 speed) the shifting is delayed and sloppy. They are getting a bit old. On a Ultegra 10 speed Ultegra, should I replace my STI shifters or move to 11 speed RS 7000 STI shifters instead? I want to improve the speed and tactile response of my shifting. Angle of cable from BB looks good. Should I replace all of my cables with Shimano Polymer coated cables instead. I ride Bianchi 928 race Carbon 53 cm frameset, Celeste of course.
R6800 shifts really good, definitely not delayed or sloppy under normal conditions. Over time the inner steel cables can start getting shredded and frayed inside the shifters which causes sloppy shifting. I’d take it to your LBS and have them take a look, a clean and lube on the shifters and mechs and new cables would most likely resolve it all.
Hello Stephanie! How old are you cables? When was the last time you replaced them? gokays advice is sound. There is nothing wrong with still running 10 speed. Over time I see that it will get phase out of top or middle end support. For example, with your 10 speed they only make one chain now the CN-HG6701 which is Ultegra no more 105 and no more Dura-Ace. I really think the R7000 shifters are nicer than 6800. The shape of the shifters is nicer less pressure points. The actual rubber of the hoods is nicer. The shifts are better as well. But do you really want to buy a new groupset? Here is a video I shot relating to this situation exactly 6800 vs R7000 th-cam.com/video/f03HIePw8GM/w-d-xo.html Lastly -- Celeste of course!
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad Excellent advice. I think I will buy new STI R7000 shifters for my Bianchi 928 and my Focus Cayo. Good question on whether to buy new group set. Probably not right now. Will take your advice and buy new Shimano cables as you had mentioned in your video. Thank you. Great fan of your YT channel.
I need them for my mechanical brakes on my Domane that's really meant for hydraulic only. It still sucks and I have assist springs on my Spyres but it's the only way it'll work
I gave Shimano’s advice for top tier components, specifically Dura-Ace R9000 and R9100. This was a real world experience which required the polymer coated cable to provide the shifting expected and designed into the Dura-Ace system. The stainless steel cable just didn’t work well enough. Did you mean coated? Or did you mean to say colored? I’m confused what you are calling colored cables. I’m also confused about you “attention grabbing… commuter” comment. Huh? 😂
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad sorry I should’ve worded it differently it is a bit off-topic, but I am referring to the external housing. High/ mid tier cable’s come in different color options, which can look visually appealing, but will have the side effect of people going up to the bike looking at it trying to figure out what it is. Why it looks different. Messing with shifter’s. Picking it up etc, That’s why it’s not great for a commuter bike people will break things.
@@johnbay1234 thank you for clarifying. I have a completely different perspective on your comment now 😂 Personally I’m not a fan of colored housing. I think it looks bad even when freshly installed. But a few months later anything colored starts looking grey. Black housing for the win. FYI - I don’t like people just walking up and picking up my bikes 😂 whether it’s my steel bikes to see how “heavy” it is or my carbon bikes to see how “light” they are 😂
Making the shifting cable smooth requires greasing between plastic and metal. This is what silicon grease is good at. The hardware store kind one. No shimano shmano teflon space technology required.
I get a lot of women in my shop because other shops ignore them or they are condescending towards them. They also like that I take my time explaining the repairs I’m doing and that I teach them how to do little things. Thanks for watching please consider subscribing
Good tips about using Dura Ace shifter cables. I have a 2015 Emonda with Dura Ace 9000 group set. Will definitely use the OEM cables next replacement time.
What cables are you running now? And if this is your winter then this is the time to change them before spring and summer are in full swing,
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad Just some basic stainless steel. Yes it’s winter where I live but temps can swing all over the place. Agreed, need to change the cable’s now.
My recommendation is to use good cable/housing for the rear, especially if it is a full housing system. Then when the going gets rough on the rear, change the rear cables into the front. If you need to replace both, i start by using mid tier stuff rather than the top tier. If results are sub par, i start looking for other options, but in the case you shown i think i would look into the 'ProblemSolvers' catalog to see if they have a solution for that. (Perhaps the Cross Clamp could be the pinnacle of what you are looking for)
Thank You
I had sram red 10 speed cabled on my bike. Could never get the shifting right with the high tension required. Didn't really notice a different in cables either. Have to be careful if its routed under the bb with that high of tension it will eat thru the cable housing which was probably part of the issue in the bike design being that it was built for shimano originally as a pro replica. I was lucky enough this never happened but in past bike shop I used a combination of very liquid lubricants they run thru the cable before inserting it. Seemed to work well. Now on my gravel bike I just squirt some silicone spray lube into the housing near the rear derailleur and seems to help that area where the housing bends around.
Thank you Sheldon! I have never been a fan of SRAM Front Derailleurs. I just don't think they were designed well. I like your silicone trick :-)
Those cables are AWESOME! I used to use the standard stainless shift cables on all my bikes, and had to replace the front derailleur cable on my Ultegra 6800/105 5700 bike. Broke down and bought the polymer coated cable, and even before I connected it to the FD it ran so smoothly thru the housing. After adjusting the derailleur, shifts are super crisp and fast with the 5700 FD. Best front shifting I ever had. I would definitely buy again. Will this work on a SRAM Apex 1X11 drivetrain too?
I don’t know if it will work with SRAM. These cables are so slick if the anchor nut/washer combination aren’t good enough the cable will slip through. Shimano doesn’t recommend them on all their groups because of this slipping issue.
Do you lube the cables with anything before they go into the housing?
@@rarebreed1984 the whole idea is that they are pre-lubricated.
Having been in a hurry, I used the cheapest galvanised steel cable for my Ultegra 8000 front mec a couple of months ago. What can I say, works flawlessly and very smoothly so far, so that I felt a little stupid having ordered the 15€ Polymer cable while the other one was 23 cents.
The galvanized cable will show corrosion depending on where you live and ride. At the very least you should use Stainless Steel cables or even a coated cable from someone other than Shimano and cable grease. But for superior performance Shimano recommends the polymer cable. You do you as long as your happy with the shifting performance of your bike we can’t say peep about it 😊
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad👍next one will definitely be at least a stainless steel one!
@@veithweissnich SS and silicon grease is the way to go.
I'd like to see a comparison between the Dura ace cable and the likes of jagwires or for really cheap fibrax die drawn cables witch don't rely on coatings but the die drawn process makes them smoother
That would be awesome comparison. Along with any other coated cable as well. And then throw in the Nikon and Elite cable set.
Very timely topic. I just put that very Dura-Ace cable on my 105-7020 bike. The Shimano 105 cable was only a year old and it shifted great. However, I installed new carbon aero handlebars (yeah, I know 🤕) and needed new cable to thread through the frame. I snagged the Dura Ace cable on sale. I just rode the bike for the first time off the trainer on Sunday. With the new Dura Ace cable, I couldn't believe how much faster the shifting is when going down the cassette. It was just Bang! Bang! Bang! superfast. I really didn't notice it being easier shifting up the cassette. But that's probably because I'm a guy with reasonably strong hands. Much to my surprise, the Dura Ace cable shifts noticibly quicker going down the cassette. And there wasn't anything wrong with the 105 cable I took off.
I love these success stories! Thank you for chiming in!!
I have a ten year old Tarmac with 9100 shifters and the left hand requires a lot of effort. I’ve tried several shifters and several iterations of cable routing. But I’ve never tried a coated cable. I’m gonna give this a try!
Hello Rich I was surprised myself that the coated cable did the trick!
They are super awesome, see my comments above. Works great with my 105 bike.
I've always used Campy cables with my Chorus setup...partially because I've seen on a number of forums "Campy gets Campy" when people talk about replacing cables. Never had any problems.
I've also heard that if you use non-Campy cables, within 3 days the ghost of Tulio will attack you with a giant corkscrew...🧟
😁😁😁😁😁
hahaha!
I have always used Dura Ace cables abd have always been happy.
Now, I do would like to try Jagwire Elite one day and see how they work.
Let us know what you discover.
I agree the Dura ace cables&housing make a huge difference on the front mech, not so much on the rear mech.
Yes that has definitely been my experience as well.
The shimano polymer cable set are the absolute best. Nothing even comes close to the lightness of shifting (and braking for that matter). Don’t worry about the “fur” that comes off the cables they do not effect performance.
So don't worry about the fuzzies? 🤣
Actually I don't but some customers think the cables are corroded when they see the brownish cable 🤣
I’ve found that Jagwire outer cables can contribute this - I’ve changed to using the Shimano SP41 polymer coated outers with Stainless Steel slick cables…
Thank You Dominic! I will keep that in mind on the hard to shift/dial-in bikes.
I've used the polymer cable with my Sora groupset & they've been shifting like an Ultegra 👌
Ha ha that’s a very economical way to upgrade your components!
I still use those cables on my Colnago along with the white cable grease that Shimano makes. That Jaguar housing isn't doing you any favors either. In a pinch I would use a regular stainless Shimano cable/housing and coat the cable in the Shimano white grease. It will give you a similar result.
Rangle! He lives! Thank You for the tip sir
The bikes with only the hole never have these problems because the cable itself will cut the frame into the shape of how it comes up to the Front derailleur so the cable is more free to move. In all my bikes all the cables are pre wrapped in a thin coat of white lithium grease so that once they go in from the shifters they go in smoother but also have less issues on bends against plastic parts ( the guides under the bike for example). The hole for the front derailleur cable needs to be wide enough so the cable housing does not kink the inner cable, the angle needs to be checked and hole adjusted for that angle. On that FD the angle is much greater so either greased or slicker cable is required.
This cable guide is a hard plastic guide. The more flexible tubing allows a little deviation in the cable line from bottom bracket hole to the FD. Yes I agree with you 100%
Thanks for watching
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad Yep I add a flex type on my bikes. Always enjoy your videos filled with detailed information.
@@danfuerthgillis4483 just like your comments always helpful with granular detailed misses by others. Thank you for contributing!
Actually I use Teflon coated cables and they are great. The cables are dipped in Teflon almost like paint, not like the DuraAce cables. They're only $6 and I'm not switching
Which cable is that Ric?
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad MEC 1.1mm Teflon Slick Stainless Steel Gear Cable (MEC is the Canadian equivalent of REI)
I recently used Jagwire for rim brakes. They seem really good. I thiught they were also polymer coated? I don't know about cables for shifting, my road bikes have Di2 and my gravel bike with GRX is pretty new.
I don't think they make that much of a difference for brakes since there is a lot of leverage and the cable is fatter But for shifting I am a believer now! lol
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad I think the braking performance improved with Jagwire compared to whatever I had before, which was definitely not DuraAce level. With Ultegra calipers and with top end Reynlods pads for carbon wheels the performance = my disc brake bike (in dry conditions] and is certainly good enough when wet.
@@stuartdryer1352 Awesome! I use the stainless steel cables from Jagwire. I also have coated cables from Jagwire. I switched to the Dura-Ace cable because I needed to rule everything out before calling Shimano to help me lol!
My R9000 Felt road bike shifted incredibly when I first built it with the supplied polymer coated setup-kabam kabam kabam-light action, instant shift for over a year. Rear I’m mostly talking. Switched it out with a stainless wire…. OMG it sucks!! Shifting up the cluster it’s fine, back down it drags and hangs up badly. Going back to the polymer coated wire ASAP.
Yep that’s why Shimano designed Dura-Ace with the polymer cables. Thanks for watching please consider subscribing
rubbing issues aside, do you think these dura-ace cables will extend service life?
Yes........yes they will.
Yes they will Princess
I asked my lbs and got two different answers 🤷🏻♂️
And here I was all ready to change out my fuzzy cables to stainless steel. Hmmm….
Yep people don’t like the fuzz 😂
On some bikes you can get away with using stainless steel cables but on others it is strongly recommended that if the lever push is too hard then use the Dura-Ace cable.
Polymer cables combined with SP41 housing seems to make a difference when you have continuous very tight internal routing, cables going through the headset, and tight bend at the rear derailleur. At work I see plenty of SP41 and Jagwire housings that shift fine. On my own bikes I run jagwire lex sl housing and lube it with cable magic or triflow and use a regular die drawn/slick stainless cable and it works great. Pretty much anything will work for 9speed or less. I am not convinced Shimano cable grease doesn't pick up contamination, and contribute to friction. Some advantages of a lighter dry lube like triflow, dri slide, or cable magic here, with unsealed ferules. I.e SRAM tells you to not used sealed ferules.
@@emilycs8823 thank you for chiming in. I always like hearing from other mechanics.
The green Shimano OptiSlick cables work great for about half the price. I had the DuraAce version and felt no difference.
Good to know! They are considered Ultegra/105 level. But if it works for you with no difference you still have an upgraded cable from stainless steel and not spending the big bucks for the Dura-Ace cable
Polymer coated cables are a non brainer for any mechanical shifter or rim brake in my opinion and they don't need to be Dura Ace branded. You can get them from Decathalon and Alixpress. I have an old bike with outside cables too so a modern bike with internal cables really do need them. A spray with PTFE dry lube is good too.
Thank You for watching!
I have r7000 on 2 bikes and it only works well on the one with a cable stop in the middle of the bottom bracket
Maganda rin ba yung Shimano na shift cable plastic kaysa sa box
Are those quick change split tubes any good
I’m not sure what tubes you’re asking about
I have a cheaper diamondback commuter ebike with internal cable routing. the rear 9 spd derailleur will often not play nice around the middle of cassette. properly adjusted on both ends, but it will stick and not shift near the middle, then double shift on the next click. RD Was an Altus and it had a bit of play on the main pivot, so i replaced with a Deore unit i had on hand in good condition- less play, stronger springs and it STILL did the same thing with a very slight/minor improvement. I suspect there are some rather tight bends in the shifter cable and im thinking this deserves to pull the motor and inspect the entire cable path.
Short of saying screw it and routing externally (ugly) - do you think upgrading the cable will make a difference?
It might help. Internal routing of cables is a stupid idea. External cables are always a better, simple and elegant for everything - shifting, inspection, troubleshooting, maintenance, packing your bike for travel.
hello, I want to ask. for installing Shimano polymer cables. Did you add oil or grease before installation?
No
Thanks for watching please consider subscribing
Without digressing too much. My front right Shimano Ultegra STI 10 speed RS 6800 mech. shifters, (yes I know I still run 10 speed) the shifting is delayed and sloppy. They are getting a bit old. On a Ultegra 10 speed Ultegra, should I replace my STI shifters or move to 11 speed RS 7000 STI shifters instead? I want to improve the speed and tactile response of my shifting. Angle of cable from BB looks good. Should I replace all of my cables with Shimano Polymer coated cables instead. I ride Bianchi 928 race Carbon 53 cm frameset, Celeste of course.
R6800 shifts really good, definitely not delayed or sloppy under normal conditions. Over time the inner steel cables can start getting shredded and frayed inside the shifters which causes sloppy shifting. I’d take it to your LBS and have them take a look, a clean and lube on the shifters and mechs and new cables would most likely resolve it all.
@@gokaygs Great advice. Thanks.
Yes you should...
Hello Stephanie! How old are you cables? When was the last time you replaced them? gokays advice is sound. There is nothing wrong with still running 10 speed. Over time I see that it will get phase out of top or middle end support. For example, with your 10 speed they only make one chain now the CN-HG6701 which is Ultegra no more 105 and no more Dura-Ace. I really think the R7000 shifters are nicer than 6800. The shape of the shifters is nicer less pressure points. The actual rubber of the hoods is nicer. The shifts are better as well. But do you really want to buy a new groupset?
Here is a video I shot relating to this situation exactly 6800 vs R7000
th-cam.com/video/f03HIePw8GM/w-d-xo.html
Lastly -- Celeste of course!
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad Excellent advice. I think I will buy new STI R7000 shifters for my Bianchi 928 and my Focus Cayo. Good question on whether to buy new group set. Probably not right now. Will take your advice and buy new Shimano cables as you had mentioned in your video. Thank you. Great fan of your YT channel.
Do you lube these optislick cables before they go into the housing?
I have in the past. For example, when I’m not using the Polymer coated cables. Not necessary but a nice touch.
I need them for my mechanical brakes on my Domane that's really meant for hydraulic only. It still sucks and I have assist springs on my Spyres but it's the only way it'll work
What is Spyres is that Tektro?
@George Vargas yes, not a fan of the hood shapes for hydraulic levers which is why I have a super expensive build with mechanical brakes.
My advice avoid the fancy colored cables. It’s attention grabbing not great for a commuter. but it does make a bike look all dressed up.
I gave Shimano’s advice for top tier components, specifically Dura-Ace R9000 and R9100. This was a real world experience which required the polymer coated cable to provide the shifting expected and designed into the Dura-Ace system. The stainless steel cable just didn’t work well enough.
Did you mean coated? Or did you mean to say colored? I’m confused what you are calling colored cables.
I’m also confused about you “attention grabbing… commuter” comment. Huh? 😂
As you can tell I’m all confused with your post 😂
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad sorry I should’ve worded it differently it is a bit off-topic, but I am referring to the external housing. High/ mid tier cable’s come in different color options, which can look visually appealing, but will have the side effect of people going up to the bike looking at it trying to figure out what it is. Why it looks different.
Messing with shifter’s.
Picking it up etc, That’s why it’s not great for a commuter bike people will break things.
@@johnbay1234 thank you for clarifying. I have a completely different perspective on your comment now 😂
Personally I’m not a fan of colored housing. I think it looks bad even when freshly installed. But a few months later anything colored starts looking grey. Black housing for the win.
FYI - I don’t like people just walking up and picking up my bikes 😂 whether it’s my steel bikes to see how “heavy” it is or my carbon bikes to see how “light” they are 😂
I dunno man. I'm strong and young never felt a difference
Good boy! 😂 my customers are mainly women 60+ I like giving them the best shifting efficiency possible.
low friction high performance= logical=Logos
Making the shifting cable smooth requires greasing between plastic and metal. This is what silicon grease is good at. The hardware store kind one.
No shimano shmano teflon space technology required.
Ok
Easy fix, just go di2 🤷🏻♂️😂😂😂
Ha ha for some easy fix for others they don’t like Di2 just one more piece of technology to go bad 😢
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad anything can go bad these days, soon though I’ll get di2 on my dogma 🤷🏻♂️
@@seraphimcombat4884 enjoy
just hotwax it like a chain.
Nice! Thanks for watching please consider subscribing
interesting so many of your customers are women, is this typical for bikes shops?
I get a lot of women in my shop because other shops ignore them or they are condescending towards them. They also like that I take my time explaining the repairs I’m doing and that I teach them how to do little things. Thanks for watching please consider subscribing