Torque wrench readings: stiction. A bolt that moves until 5 Nm will always show higher readings when you try to move it again because static friction is higher than moving friction.
@@robertmcfadyen9156 The one I use at work is bolted to a bench, so it's not likely to be dropped. It's a Gedore Dremotest, which is about $1k. Not something you buy and use in your garage, sure, but not THAT expensive.
Love the video. Bit…. Testing a torque wrench by checking the torque to move the fastener already torqued fails to take into account static friction. It always takes a little extra to get the fastener moving again. A better way would have been to connect the test wrench to the park beam torque wrench using a 1/4” hex bit and simply compare measurements on the scales.
The toopre derailleur hanger alignment tool can be adjusted to take the play out by tightening the detent on the black rod that screws to the hanger using the allen key that comes in the kit.
The torq wrench one is incorrect. When you retighten a bolt with the same Nm setting, it does not stay at the set adjustment, as you are retightening it. The only thing you are achieving is increasing the tightness. There’s an interesting article on Pinkbike that explains it. That’s why it is recommended that once the torque wrench indicates that you’ve reached the set force, you should leave it and not recheck, because all you’re doing is tightening it more.
About 25 years ago i needed to break open a cassette with no access to a cassette tool so i made one out of a socket with an angle grinder. I still have it to this day and even use it occasionally lol.
I made a cone key, or whats it called, with my grinder. Weird thing it was cheaper to destroy a normal wrench and buy a new one than to buy the one for cones...
@@Kumek01 Yep, and a ground down wrench works better than most cone wrenches outside the good Park or Pedro's ones. Same for my motorcycle, i could pay like $100 for a rotor puller wrench or i could just heat up and bend an old 1 1/8" open end into a funky L shape for basically free.
Hi Seth, just a tip for comparing torque wrenches. Tighten with the first one, use a marker to note the relative position, untighten, and tighten with the second torque wrench. That way static friction doesn't throw you off.
On the tubing cutter, if you align the larger roller to the inside of the bar, it will minimize the external burr as it will roll the kept edge down as it cuts.
The cable cutters look very similar to the ones I got at Decathlon. The latch works without a problem and I've been using them for two years without a problem.
I have the same exact, red handled cable cutters. I'll chime in saying that the little nub that holds the cable cutters closed quickly wore out and would pop open very easily. I wouldn't write home about all of them as a whole, so soon. They are fantastic cutters though and I see myself using them for a long time.
As an independent bike mechanic (I provide services), I've personally used the Toopre HAG but the steel version (I was afraid that the aluminum version wasn't strong enough). The retaining set screw on the hanger side is easily adjustable and there is very little to no play. Granted, the probe rod is very barebones but all the essential functions and requirements are fulfilled and it almost has the same finish as the park tool one.
Hey Seth. I am a 14 year old and I’ve been saving all the money I could for the last few years and today I’m finally spending it on something. I Am deciding to get a 2023 Pivot Mach 4 SL v2 and I can’t wait to see how fast it is. I’ve been training on a Enduro canon that is 40 pounds for the last year or so. I hope I start to get close to that podium. And your channel is awesome so keep up the great and entertaining work 😄
As an amateur bike mechanic with a wide range of Park Tools, I really have enjoyed this series. I don't mind paying a fair price for good tools, but some of them are just too costly for the amateur mechanic who only sees the problem once every few years. Those expensive tools are the ones I am interested in seeing. I'd also like to see a comparison of mechanic's bike stands as I am not happy with the one I have been using for 20+ years. Too fiddly.
One additional advice, don't buy bearings at the bike shop. They are standardised and you get them much cheaper from specialised shops. At least here in germany you get an entire set of bearings for the price of a single one at the bike shop.
@@Vallecaucanisimo That markup comes with 1 day delivery and a no questions asked return / replacement warranty. Well worth it when you can call the company, In the same country you are in, and get service immediately.
For pivot bearings and wheel bearings, definitely! As a bike mechanic, the one exception, IMHO, would be pressfit BB bearings (Trek BB90 especially). Many of the delrin casings around pressfit BB's (ie PF30) are not dimensionally stable enough to handle direct bearing replacement. With BB90 in particular, there is a non-zero chance that the frame has been wallowed out and needs a +.01 or higher oversize bearing to prevent further damage. Specialized BB's in certain vintages also have this problem with OsBB. Less of an issue for headset bearings, but often those are harder to find. headset bearings can have a few different angles on the axial surfaces where they are preloaded, and knowing exactly which ones to get is annoyingly hard, even in a bike shop with the knowledge on where to find them. Bike "standards" are really just a way to not have to pay a patent holder for the right to use their design, even if it is clearly better.
I have one of those bearing presses and have used it a ton. The only recommendation i have is for people to grease the thread just to prevent rust. I don't think you missed anything with an extractor. I got one separately that was a POS but did the job. But I've been blown away by how well machined the parts are and how accurate the actual solid aluminium bearimg presses are as well.
6:56 there’s a little problem here, you see when we torque down a bolt it’s moving but here when you test the accuracy the bolts a still and except for clutch material every two materials have a higher breaking free friction than the moving friction (not sure what the correct words are in English 😂) so a bolt that’s torqued to perfect 5 ft-lb would turn a little if the next torque wrench is set to 5,5 or 6 ft-lb…hope this makes sense 😂
I just added half these tools to my AliExpress cart. Many I had already, or different versions that have been working well for the past couple years. I've found that if I end up using the tool a LOT, then when it wears out or breaks, I will spend the money on the Park Tool. It's a good gauge on how much you will use the tools too, and gets you into fixing stuff on the cheap. Great video, I love ali express review vids for hobbies!
cheap cheap tools certainly have a place in every toolbox, especially if its a tool that works, but isnt needed often, no reason to spend high dollar for a tool that is gonna just sit and collect dust. i certainly have my share of cheap jungle site tools, and they work for the task just fine.
Thats correct! I use them very little since I dont have a shop, I just do mechanics to my own bike, but for frequently used tools (besides my bike) i like to spent as much as i can since it helps you work better and faster.
it is amazing what you can do with sketch tools. but... for bike specific tools looks for tools make by people involved in the bike industry. sure they cost a bit more, but they also designed it themselves and did just rip of someones design.
Seth, you can take the play out of the derailleur alignment gauge with a wipe of grease on the shaft of the attachment bolt where it goes through the "head" of the arm. Since it's aluminum on aluminum, it'd be a good idea to grease it anyway.
I got that bearing press kit _with_ the box. It's legit and one of the best values for a tool I've ever found. But yeah, you aren't missing anything: no expanding ring-style extractors were included. But...depending on the flange in which the bearing is seated you might be able to get away with using a smaller drift to push against only the inner bearing race/ring from the other side. You'd need an appropriate sized "cup" to brace against and catch the bearing (and those cups are not included either). If you're throwing away the bearing anyway because it's trashed, pushing only on the inner race is probably fine.
I have exactly the same one he got, got all the bearings out by pushing the inner race except for one which exploded and the outer was stuck in the swingarm. Tool was 100% worth it.
@@pilotsevendoes I've been hoping for links to a lot of this stuff he's reviewed in these videos so I know I'm at least buying the same thing as when I've looked up some of this stuff I found multiple results.
Oh man... what timing! I've spent what feels like an eternity over the last few weeks trying to figure out if that exact budget bearing press is worth it (If can actually do what it says it does). Im actually glad to hear that an extractor system don't seem to be included, as in the end I went with the kit from Alt/Alt. Thanks as always, Seth!
Like the other guy said about the bearing press - put a cup on the other side of what you're removing that the bearing can fall into and then tighten it up so that it pulls it out into the hollow space of the cup.
I'm from China. I can tell you that the Toopre brand is definitely a legit tool brand in China and I got most of my special bike tools from them. They have worked very well so far. So I guess the derailuer hanger tool is probably a defect that sliped pass QC.
I recently bought one from a brand Lebycle, the orange one. It's looks the same as this toopre one but the rotating shaft fits into the bushing with very tight fit having zero play so I guess it's more accurate the the toopre. The shaft has a spring-loaded ball adjusted by a grub screw and it clicks when you insert the sahft. I suppose this also contributes to the tight fit. The tool also came with an adapter that allows you to install it into the headset starnut in place of the headset cap to be able to align the brake levers and/or brofters, but I found it inaccurate.
These are great for the home mech wanting to learn how to work on bikes and someone doing limited maintenance and repairs, like someone who maybe pulls a BB once every two years. I'm an avid rider and haven't had to pull my cranks in five years.
I have been using this pipe cutter, it's been going about 3 years now and been absolutely perfect! Just cut my new Burgtec bars with it and hardly a burr on it! For 12 bucks its been a winner Wostore Tubing Cutter Pipe Cutting Copper,Plastic,Aluminum,Brass and Stainless Steel,1/8"-1-5/8" (3-35mm) Tube Cutter
I'm so glad someone reviews these tools honestly I've got loads from Ali now to do my home mechanic works and it can be a real magical mystery tour of what works and what doesn't but it has significantly lowered the barrier to entry so I can do this stuff at home without breaking the bank.
For extracting just use a larger bearing on outside edge of bearing recess and use it to pull out. For derailleur hanger you may be able to add a washer ro take out the free play.
Hi Seth, great work on these vids! I am, as you say, a home mechanic myself and do as much as possible of my own repairs and maintenance on my bike. Recently i started saving up and buying parts to build my first complete mtb from the frame up. I soon found out i needed a lot more specialty tools then i thought and have, so i also started looking at aliexpress. Your vids are a very good reference for, thanks a lot! Greetings from a Belgian fan!
When replacing bearings on trick scooter wheels, it’s important to press the bearings in evenly to maximize their life. Hammered in bearings last about 2 months, where bearings pressed in (i use an arbor press) last 6 months or more. Not to mention so much easier to press them in. Pressing in bike bearings versus hammering them in will likely have similar 3x life length results.
Yep. I hammer old (worn) bearings out but only ever press them in with a tool. Hammering them in deforms them during install, which means you've basically ruined them before you've started.
I bought the same bearing press kit a year ago, mine was much darker blue and came in the case you mentioned. It's a tremendous value, when I was running the service department at the local LBS I bought the Wheels MFG version of the same thing and our cost(well below MSRP) was about $300 Cdn and also had no extractors lol(no hate against Wheels MFG, their product has a much nicer press and top notch finish). Ran into a similar situation when our owner grabbed an Enduro branded blind bearing puller for ~$200 cost ($360 MSRP). I liked it so much I looked later that month for a personal blind puller set for cheap on Amazon... I found the EXACT same set, case and all for $80. All that was missing was the Enduro sticker and price gouge.
Not only did I buy that cable cutter for 5.80, but this video helped me realize you could secure the handles together. To top it off, my secure mechanism actually works no problem, I feel like I just won everything
I use park tool stuff when it's for a common tool (spoke wrench), I compined that press tool you have with a 2nd one for bottom brackets and can do everything.
I have the same bearing press set and it's done a fantastic job so far when i need to press a new bottom bracket once yearly. Even with the case it's cheaper than paying for a service in the bike shop. Still needed to buy an extractor tool separately though.
Isn’t there a way to use the press itself as an extractor by somehow putting the press disc inside the bearing and another larger one on the other side and then threading it the other way?
@@bcrides6717 if it can do bottom bracket bearings it should be able to do headset bearings too, there's quite a few different size discs. For extracting I got the one you have to use a hammer to take bearings out - as I won't use it often I'm not spending more on a fancy one (looks vaguely like BBT-90.3 from park tool)
Thanks for the "third hand". I've never seen one before - self taught. That'll save me from an oily stab on someone else's ratty cables. Best of all though... new tool to buy.
lets go baby. i barely even use my bike but love budget tools so i'm a fan of seeing you compare these to the real deal. Would also love seeing more comparisons to the budget options for your average joe
I have those hex wrenches. Love them. First time they sent Torxs, They called them plumb wrenches. I kept them because they look so good. I like that you get to know the size by the colour.
I’m using the bearing tool you’ve tested. I’m using a proper extraction tool. So far so good. Btw I’m a hobby mechanic and I’m loving it. So do the neighbors 😀
I bought the cable cutter @1:16, used to cut 2 cable houses, worked well. I had no problem with the locking latch. The manufacturing quality is probably inconsistent, thus some don't lock properly. Thanks for showing the fix! I feel your pain about the derailleur alignment tool @13:46 (didn't try). When appearances raise the expectations, but the essence is missing...
I have had that press set for around 4 years now and done over 20 sets of bearings on mine and friends bikes and it's been great. For an extractor iv always found Sockets work in a pinch
I really enjoy these Ali Express videos because you find some rare gems and a lot of crazy stuff and junk too but you show us the junk and the Diamonds in the rough. That is cool.
@@not-a-raccoon Its just someone elses product with a "brand" stamped on them by some person who happened to watch a "you can make millions on amazon" video.
I have those cable cutters (or something that looks exactly like). I use them in my workshop for cutting 3/32 braided stainless steel aircraft cable. They cut really cleanly. I've been using them for about 10 years and they are still really sharp and cut really cleanly. For bike cables and housings, I only use Park. They are pretty perfect for bike stuff, and that's all they get used for.
Love these kinds of videos, thanks. Are you going to make a video of all the tools you bought from Ali Express that you like, once you have enough to make a video?
bolt tightening is its own art form. How the joint is lubricated has a big effect and the tool used also has an effect. I don't remember giving the standards as a toss, but it's significant. Torque wrenches usually go to 2% accuracy
For a cheap cable cutter pedros was my option. I have had them for 4 years now and used them for everything from picture wire, zipties, copper wiring, and of course bike housings and wire. Still just as good as the day I got them
The way Seth explains how things work is the way I needed my teacher to explain math to me to understand it 😂 12 years of school met maybe 1 twacher during summer school that taught like that and I understood 😅
Those third hands and life saver's! Especially with working on disc brakes, It keeps my hand away from the disk and keeps me from getting cut. -Shop owner/tech
I bought this bearing press with the box at Amazon for $39. Works amazing. And I actually did the same ending up sockets 😂. Now I’m using pvc couplers (1”) which don’t scratch the frame
I bought an identical bearing press on Amazon a few years ago, and it came with the case. A quick search there shows you can get one (with case) for $35. And it'll probably get to your house in an hour. Safety tip: don't get smart like me and think you can press in two bearings at once, one on each side of that link. I bent mine and had to get a replacement.
I have that bearing press kit. I managed to get the boxed one though. To extract bearings you use a smaller die and a socket as you've suggested to push them out. Worked well on my Trek Slash bearing set. I also did get a bearing puller kit with slide hammer but none of the puller heads actually stayed in the bearings when trying to yank them out. Ended up just pulling the puller head through the bearing inner. Reverted to the press kit as above.
If there's a cup to fit over the bearings that's what you'd use as an extractor and on the other side would be the same size of the bearing but little bit longer to push it through. The cup would be slight bigger than the bearing, that's where all the force is to hold the tool in place so the press can work to push the bearing into the cup.
Tbf, my Chinese bearing press kit has saved me a fortune. Cost me £40 3 years ago and done about 7 bikes so far. I’ve used on to push out car bushes too!
Those Toopre cable cutters are available under a zillion different brands, and they're OK without being spectacular. Certainly decent quality for the price. The Ice Toolz cable puller is great, I've been using that for a while with no complaints. The cheapo cable puller I had before used to slip sideways and mash cables, but the Ice Toolz version is, as you said, clearly superior.
The problem with your torque test is that it won't work the way you think. When you start to tighten an already tightened bolt, you must first overcome friction/sticktion. Meaning, the second torque wrench will nearly always 'click' at a slightly higher torque while trying to overcome tension from mating surface friction. To prove this, you can do an experiment by reversing the order of wrenches used (and using different wrenches). They all should behave Simmerly being the second wrench.
To use the oress as a removal tool you use one of the tools that matches the OD of the internal surface of the bearing rather than outter surface. The catch is it only works on single bearing locations. Not sure if i explained the properly .
I read about a mechanic that used feeling to torque. And would occasionally use a torque wrench to recalibrate his feeling. To make sure his judgement was correct.
We got that cable cutters from topre for a couple of years, stop hook grinded down and now not working, spring flies down as soon as you stop the pressure on the handles
6 years and running on Zitto's bb30 outboard bearings+ tool for removing and installing! 14€ + 5€ for shipping! Good value,and long lasting! Greetings from Croatia 😎
The Ztto stuff is pretty good usually. You need to know what you’re looking for but they have some good stuff. For example a pretty neat dropper lever, with a ball bearing
Topree have two different types of derailleur hanger tools, the beautiful cheap aluminum one that you have tested and an ugly stainless steel one which is double the price. I would suggest giving that one a shot in the next video.
Canyon provides a cheaper version of the torque meter. The numbers and hash lines aren't even painted and it definitely doesn't have extra bits. Made it fun to try to read during assembly. Eventually I put sharpie lines on the numbers I needed.
Torque wrench readings: stiction. A bolt that moves until 5 Nm will always show higher readings when you try to move it again because static friction is higher than moving friction.
Was about to comment this. You cant test a torque wrench like this. You need a proper tester
stiction baby ;)
@@Skracken I always just connected 2 torque wrenches ends togheter and checked when they clicked / failed
@@SkrackenUnless the calibrator has been dropped or knocked . Then you have to buy an expensive new one . Two to ten thousand dollars .
@@robertmcfadyen9156 The one I use at work is bolted to a bench, so it's not likely to be dropped. It's a Gedore Dremotest, which is about $1k. Not something you buy and use in your garage, sure, but not THAT expensive.
Love the video. Bit…. Testing a torque wrench by checking the torque to move the fastener already torqued fails to take into account static friction. It always takes a little extra to get the fastener moving again. A better way would have been to connect the test wrench to the park beam torque wrench using a 1/4” hex bit and simply compare measurements on the scales.
The most accurate way to calculate torque is to measure fastener stretch. That would be the better test 🤘
It also really depends how you hold the torque wrench
He’s not torque test channel 🤦🏻♂️
But if you do it the other way, first fasten with the expensive one, then use the cheaper one... You should have the same result, due to friction
So true! If you disagree, you don't understand mechanics and probably won't get right torque with any wrench.
The toopre derailleur hanger alignment tool can be adjusted to take the play out by tightening the detent on the black rod that screws to the hanger using the allen key that comes in the kit.
🙌
This is common across super b and park etc.
But
Often it then becomes hard to rotate
I have the same tool, I can confirm it has no play once u adjust it properly, is a great tool to have at home.
Its also possible to just keep it under tension the whole time while measuring, it's how I got by with mine for a while.
glad to be known that
The torq wrench one is incorrect. When you retighten a bolt with the same Nm setting, it does not stay at the set adjustment, as you are retightening it. The only thing you are achieving is increasing the tightness. There’s an interesting article on Pinkbike that explains it. That’s why it is recommended that once the torque wrench indicates that you’ve reached the set force, you should leave it and not recheck, because all you’re doing is tightening it more.
About 25 years ago i needed to break open a cassette with no access to a cassette tool so i made one out of a socket with an angle grinder. I still have it to this day and even use it occasionally lol.
I made a cone key, or whats it called, with my grinder. Weird thing it was cheaper to destroy a normal wrench and buy a new one than to buy the one for cones...
@@Kumek01 Yep, and a ground down wrench works better than most cone wrenches outside the good Park or Pedro's ones.
Same for my motorcycle, i could pay like $100 for a rotor puller wrench or i could just heat up and bend an old 1 1/8" open end into a funky L shape for basically free.
“Looks legit, but it’s a piece of $…” 😂 omg had me rolling. Great video Seth!
Right? I thought this was an ad at first.
Totally caught me off guard lmao, should have cut to a "We'll be right back!" screen
this also had me in stitches hahaha. It was so unexpected. love it
Hi Seth, just a tip for comparing torque wrenches. Tighten with the first one, use a marker to note the relative position, untighten, and tighten with the second torque wrench. That way static friction doesn't throw you off.
as a frequent aliexpress shopper, love this series.
nice to see what can be trusted on there.
On the tubing cutter, if you align the larger roller to the inside of the bar, it will minimize the external burr as it will roll the kept edge down as it cuts.
this!!
Also, you don't want to cut very deep. The deeper the cut each time around, the bigger the burr.
The cable cutters look very similar to the ones I got at Decathlon. The latch works without a problem and I've been using them for two years without a problem.
Yes they are almost identical
Same here, I love them, and they are 100% in the same china workhouse made, the decathlon ones probably just have a bit more quality control
Yeah, I have one from Decathlon and I feel like it comes from the same factory as the one from AliExpress
I got the exact same set off chain reaction years ago and they have worked perfectly including the locking mechanism.
I have the same exact, red handled cable cutters. I'll chime in saying that the little nub that holds the cable cutters closed quickly wore out and would pop open very easily. I wouldn't write home about all of them as a whole, so soon. They are fantastic cutters though and I see myself using them for a long time.
As an independent bike mechanic (I provide services), I've personally used the Toopre HAG but the steel version (I was afraid that the aluminum version wasn't strong enough). The retaining set screw on the hanger side is easily adjustable and there is very little to no play. Granted, the probe rod is very barebones but all the essential functions and requirements are fulfilled and it almost has the same finish as the park tool one.
Hey Seth. I am a 14 year old and I’ve been saving all the money I could for the last few years and today I’m finally spending it on something. I Am deciding to get a 2023 Pivot Mach 4 SL v2 and I can’t wait to see how fast it is. I’ve been training on a Enduro canon that is 40 pounds for the last year or so. I hope I start to get close to that podium. And your channel is awesome so keep up the great and entertaining work 😄
that bike will be lightning fast!
Congratulations. You did go hard with the pivot; do everything, do it better 💪😂
🐐
Hi Seth, regarding the bearing press, it's just a bearing press. I've used it to change pivot bearings on my bike. It works very well!
As an amateur bike mechanic with a wide range of Park Tools, I really have enjoyed this series. I don't mind paying a fair price for good tools, but some of them are just too costly for the amateur mechanic who only sees the problem once every few years. Those expensive tools are the ones I am interested in seeing. I'd also like to see a comparison of mechanic's bike stands as I am not happy with the one I have been using for 20+ years. Too fiddly.
One additional advice, don't buy bearings at the bike shop. They are standardised and you get them much cheaper from specialised shops. At least here in germany you get an entire set of bearings for the price of a single one at the bike shop.
True! I would also advise don’t buy then at McMasterCarr either since the markup is quite steep.
@@haemmertime good advice. Just look on the seal, there should be a standardized number. Just Google and buy.
@@Vallecaucanisimo That markup comes with 1 day delivery and a no questions asked return / replacement warranty. Well worth it when you can call the company, In the same country you are in, and get service immediately.
For pivot bearings and wheel bearings, definitely!
As a bike mechanic, the one exception, IMHO, would be pressfit BB bearings (Trek BB90 especially). Many of the delrin casings around pressfit BB's (ie PF30) are not dimensionally stable enough to handle direct bearing replacement. With BB90 in particular, there is a non-zero chance that the frame has been wallowed out and needs a +.01 or higher oversize bearing to prevent further damage. Specialized BB's in certain vintages also have this problem with OsBB.
Less of an issue for headset bearings, but often those are harder to find. headset bearings can have a few different angles on the axial surfaces where they are preloaded, and knowing exactly which ones to get is annoyingly hard, even in a bike shop with the knowledge on where to find them.
Bike "standards" are really just a way to not have to pay a patent holder for the right to use their design, even if it is clearly better.
agreed
I have one of those bearing presses and have used it a ton. The only recommendation i have is for people to grease the thread just to prevent rust.
I don't think you missed anything with an extractor. I got one separately that was a POS but did the job.
But I've been blown away by how well machined the parts are and how accurate the actual solid aluminium bearimg presses are as well.
6:56 there’s a little problem here, you see when we torque down a bolt it’s moving but here when you test the accuracy the bolts a still and except for clutch material every two materials have a higher breaking free friction than the moving friction (not sure what the correct words are in English 😂) so a bolt that’s torqued to perfect 5 ft-lb would turn a little if the next torque wrench is set to 5,5 or 6 ft-lb…hope this makes sense 😂
I just added half these tools to my AliExpress cart. Many I had already, or different versions that have been working well for the past couple years. I've found that if I end up using the tool a LOT, then when it wears out or breaks, I will spend the money on the Park Tool. It's a good gauge on how much you will use the tools too, and gets you into fixing stuff on the cheap. Great video, I love ali express review vids for hobbies!
cheap cheap tools certainly have a place in every toolbox, especially if its a tool that works, but isnt needed often, no reason to spend high dollar for a tool that is gonna just sit and collect dust. i certainly have my share of cheap jungle site tools, and they work for the task just fine.
Cheap tools for the travel tool box. Leave the good stuff at home where most of the wrenching is done.
Thats correct! I use them very little since I dont have a shop, I just do mechanics to my own bike, but for frequently used tools (besides my bike) i like to spent as much as i can since it helps you work better and faster.
it is amazing what you can do with sketch tools.
but...
for bike specific tools looks for tools make by people involved in the bike industry. sure they cost a bit more, but they also designed it themselves and did just rip of someones design.
Seth, you can take the play out of the derailleur alignment gauge with a wipe of grease on the shaft of the attachment bolt where it goes through the "head" of the arm. Since it's aluminum on aluminum, it'd be a good idea to grease it anyway.
Congrats on 1 million keep up the great great great work
I got that bearing press kit _with_ the box. It's legit and one of the best values for a tool I've ever found. But yeah, you aren't missing anything: no expanding ring-style extractors were included.
But...depending on the flange in which the bearing is seated you might be able to get away with using a smaller drift to push against only the inner bearing race/ring from the other side. You'd need an appropriate sized "cup" to brace against and catch the bearing (and those cups are not included either). If you're throwing away the bearing anyway because it's trashed, pushing only on the inner race is probably fine.
Can you link it
I have exactly the same one he got, got all the bearings out by pushing the inner race except for one which exploded and the outer was stuck in the swingarm. Tool was 100% worth it.
@@pilotsevendoes I've been hoping for links to a lot of this stuff he's reviewed in these videos so I know I'm at least buying the same thing as when I've looked up some of this stuff I found multiple results.
lol yes, "extractor" is a flat screw driver 99% of the time. altaltbike sells actual expanding ones
@@funky-phantom yeah you probably won't - just as likely to get a QC reject or something that skipped any quality checks altogether
Oh man... what timing! I've spent what feels like an eternity over the last few weeks trying to figure out if that exact budget bearing press is worth it (If can actually do what it says it does). Im actually glad to hear that an extractor system don't seem to be included, as in the end I went with the kit from Alt/Alt. Thanks as always, Seth!
For the bearings, I just use a headset press with a socket from my Stanley set that fits whatever bearing I need.
Like the other guy said about the bearing press - put a cup on the other side of what you're removing that the bearing can fall into and then tighten it up so that it pulls it out into the hollow space of the cup.
I'm from China. I can tell you that the Toopre brand is definitely a legit tool brand in China and I got most of my special bike tools from them. They have worked very well so far. So I guess the derailuer hanger tool is probably a defect that sliped pass QC.
the ZTTO one has a little screw on top to fix that part, works pretty well and lowers the tolerances needed for a functional tool
I recently bought one from a brand Lebycle, the orange one. It's looks the same as this toopre one but the rotating shaft fits into the bushing with very tight fit having zero play so I guess it's more accurate the the toopre. The shaft has a spring-loaded ball adjusted by a grub screw and it clicks when you insert the sahft. I suppose this also contributes to the tight fit. The tool also came with an adapter that allows you to install it into the headset starnut in place of the headset cap to be able to align the brake levers and/or brofters, but I found it inaccurate.
Or QC just put it in the "failed; send to the US" bucket.
These are great for the home mech wanting to learn how to work on bikes and someone doing limited maintenance and repairs, like someone who maybe pulls a BB once every two years. I'm an avid rider and haven't had to pull my cranks in five years.
I have been using this pipe cutter, it's been going about 3 years now and been absolutely perfect! Just cut my new Burgtec bars with it and hardly a burr on it! For 12 bucks its been a winner
Wostore Tubing Cutter Pipe Cutting Copper,Plastic,Aluminum,Brass and Stainless Steel,1/8"-1-5/8" (3-35mm) Tube Cutter
Bearing press works great. Have one and have used it countless times on hubs, shock hardware , headset and BBs and linkages.
Can you remove/install bushings with it?
Congrats on the 1 million.
I'm so glad someone reviews these tools honestly I've got loads from Ali now to do my home mechanic works and it can be a real magical mystery tour of what works and what doesn't but it has significantly lowered the barrier to entry so I can do this stuff at home without breaking the bank.
The "Toopre" torque wrench looks very similar to the "Topeak" one (I have it). That is very handy design. 😄
For extracting just use a larger bearing on outside edge of bearing recess and use it to pull out. For derailleur hanger you may be able to add a washer ro take out the free play.
I use those hose cutters work great! Love the ZTTO brand too!
Hi Seth, great work on these vids!
I am, as you say, a home mechanic myself and do as much as possible of my own repairs and maintenance on my bike. Recently i started saving up and buying parts to build my first complete mtb from the frame up. I soon found out i needed a lot more specialty tools then i thought and have, so i also started looking at aliexpress. Your vids are a very good reference for, thanks a lot! Greetings from a Belgian fan!
My favorite series on the channel!❤
I was looking at the cable cutters a few days ago and figured i would wait until you tried them out eventually. Thanks, I'll get them.
When replacing bearings on trick scooter wheels, it’s important to press the bearings in evenly to maximize their life. Hammered in bearings last about 2 months, where bearings pressed in (i use an arbor press) last 6 months or more. Not to mention so much easier to press them in.
Pressing in bike bearings versus hammering them in will likely have similar 3x life length results.
Yep. I hammer old (worn) bearings out but only ever press them in with a tool. Hammering them in deforms them during install, which means you've basically ruined them before you've started.
That torque wrench in exactly the same a those supplied by Canyon when you buy a bike from them.
I bought the same bearing press kit a year ago, mine was much darker blue and came in the case you mentioned. It's a tremendous value, when I was running the service department at the local LBS I bought the Wheels MFG version of the same thing and our cost(well below MSRP) was about $300 Cdn and also had no extractors lol(no hate against Wheels MFG, their product has a much nicer press and top notch finish). Ran into a similar situation when our owner grabbed an Enduro branded blind bearing puller for ~$200 cost ($360 MSRP). I liked it so much I looked later that month for a personal blind puller set for cheap on Amazon... I found the EXACT same set, case and all for $80. All that was missing was the Enduro sticker and price gouge.
That “third hand” tool blew my mind. I had no idea that was even a tool which existed. I need one!
Can you use a nut, bolt, fender washers and 3D printed parts to press bearings?
@@Rickmakes sure, but this kit is $30 so juice may not be worth the squeeze
As a DIY home bikemachanic, I changed my hub bearings with threaded rod, two nuts and two bits from 3D printer - worked just fine as bearingpress 🙂
Not only did I buy that cable cutter for 5.80, but this video helped me realize you could secure the handles together. To top it off, my secure mechanism actually works no problem, I feel like I just won everything
I use park tool stuff when it's for a common tool (spoke wrench), I compined that press tool you have with a 2nd one for bottom brackets and can do everything.
About the derailleur hanger tool, you have to adjust the spring loaded grub screw to fix the play.
Great day when theres a bearm peak express video!! 🎉 congrats on 1mill
I have the same bearing press set and it's done a fantastic job so far when i need to press a new bottom bracket once yearly. Even with the case it's cheaper than paying for a service in the bike shop. Still needed to buy an extractor tool separately though.
Isn’t there a way to use the press itself as an extractor by somehow putting the press disc inside the bearing and another larger one on the other side and then threading it the other way?
what extractor do you use? im considering buying this press but can it do headset bearings too? or do i need another one?
@@bcrides6717 if it can do bottom bracket bearings it should be able to do headset bearings too, there's quite a few different size discs. For extracting I got the one you have to use a hammer to take bearings out - as I won't use it often I'm not spending more on a fancy one (looks vaguely like BBT-90.3 from park tool)
I have that same press, actually worked super well replacing bearings on my rear hub
Thanks for the "third hand". I've never seen one before - self taught. That'll save me from an oily stab on someone else's ratty cables. Best of all though... new tool to buy.
lets go baby. i barely even use my bike but love budget tools so i'm a fan of seeing you compare these to the real deal. Would also love seeing more comparisons to the budget options for your average joe
I have those hex wrenches. Love them. First time they sent Torxs, They called them plumb wrenches. I kept them because they look so good. I like that you get to know the size by the colour.
Never clicked so fast on a Video.
Fr
Fr
Yassss broo
Fr
Not fair I was out riding 😅
I’m using the bearing tool you’ve tested. I’m using a proper extraction tool. So far so good. Btw I’m a hobby mechanic and I’m loving it. So do the neighbors 😀
I bought the cable cutter @1:16, used to cut 2 cable houses, worked well. I had no problem with the locking latch. The manufacturing quality is probably inconsistent, thus some don't lock properly. Thanks for showing the fix!
I feel your pain about the derailleur alignment tool @13:46 (didn't try). When appearances raise the expectations, but the essence is missing...
I have had that press set for around 4 years now and done over 20 sets of bearings on mine and friends bikes and it's been great. For an extractor iv always found Sockets work in a pinch
Ive had a ZTTO dropper lever and chain checker,and both were Quality...Would highly recommend their products so far..ha!!
Please do a biketstand and bleedkit. Maybe even a chainchecker. Love the video!!!
I really enjoy these Ali Express videos because you find some rare gems and a lot of crazy stuff and junk too but you show us the junk and the Diamonds in the rough. That is cool.
Mzyrh pedals are one of them. Can definitely recommend.
@@not-a-raccoon yea thanks not-a-racoon
@@not-a-raccoon Its just someone elses product with a "brand" stamped on them by some person who happened to watch a "you can make millions on amazon" video.
@@Azzysdesignworks ...and?
I have those cable cutters (or something that looks exactly like). I use them in my workshop for cutting 3/32 braided stainless steel aircraft cable. They cut really cleanly. I've been using them for about 10 years and they are still really sharp and cut really cleanly. For bike cables and housings, I only use Park. They are pretty perfect for bike stuff, and that's all they get used for.
Love these kinds of videos, thanks.
Are you going to make a video of all the tools you bought from Ali Express that you like, once you have enough to make a video?
The new bottom bracket tool for press fit ones, the version that has oval things to pull bearings out, is very nice. Has adaptors for all sizes.
How about a comparison between cheap and expensive spoke tension meters?
I have the hose cutter, and the bearing set. Glad to see that i wasnt missing something so just bought a seperater bearing extractor
Can you link the press
bolt tightening is its own art form. How the joint is lubricated has a big effect and the tool used also has an effect. I don't remember giving the standards as a toss, but it's significant. Torque wrenches usually go to 2% accuracy
Seth you should do a bikepacking video with the a cargo bike!
For a cheap cable cutter pedros was my option. I have had them for 4 years now and used them for everything from picture wire, zipties, copper wiring, and of course bike housings and wire. Still just as good as the day I got them
The way Seth explains how things work is the way I needed my teacher to explain math to me to understand it 😂 12 years of school met maybe 1 twacher during summer school that taught like that and I understood 😅
Those third hands and life saver's! Especially with working on disc brakes, It keeps my hand away from the disk and keeps me from getting cut.
-Shop owner/tech
You showed a trek marlin, another flip bike video coming up👀???
I bought this bearing press with the box at Amazon for $39. Works amazing.
And I actually did the same ending up sockets 😂. Now I’m using pvc couplers (1”) which don’t scratch the frame
Same! I bought pvc caps and drilled holes in them.
I bought an identical bearing press on Amazon a few years ago, and it came with the case. A quick search there shows you can get one (with case) for $35. And it'll probably get to your house in an hour.
Safety tip: don't get smart like me and think you can press in two bearings at once, one on each side of that link. I bent mine and had to get a replacement.
I have that bearing press kit. I managed to get the boxed one though. To extract bearings you use a smaller die and a socket as you've suggested to push them out. Worked well on my Trek Slash bearing set. I also did get a bearing puller kit with slide hammer but none of the puller heads actually stayed in the bearings when trying to yank them out. Ended up just pulling the puller head through the bearing inner. Reverted to the press kit as above.
Toopre makes some really solid tools. Their hydraulic hose barb tool is really nice
If there's a cup to fit over the bearings that's what you'd use as an extractor and on the other side would be the same size of the bearing but little bit longer to push it through. The cup would be slight bigger than the bearing, that's where all the force is to hold the tool in place so the press can work to push the bearing into the cup.
Always a good day when Seth uploads 💪🏼🔥
Tbf, my Chinese bearing press kit has saved me a fortune. Cost me £40 3 years ago and done about 7 bikes so far.
I’ve used on to push out car bushes too!
Congrats on 1 mil. Great video as always.
Those Toopre cable cutters are available under a zillion different brands, and they're OK without being spectacular. Certainly decent quality for the price. The Ice Toolz cable puller is great, I've been using that for a while with no complaints. The cheapo cable puller I had before used to slip sideways and mash cables, but the Ice Toolz version is, as you said, clearly superior.
If you want a pipe cutter - get one at HomeDepot, Lowes, Ace, etc. They have removable cutting wheels and can be used elsewhere.
The problem with your torque test is that it won't work the way you think. When you start to tighten an already tightened bolt, you must first overcome friction/sticktion. Meaning, the second torque wrench will nearly always 'click' at a slightly higher torque while trying to overcome tension from mating surface friction. To prove this, you can do an experiment by reversing the order of wrenches used (and using different wrenches). They all should behave Simmerly being the second wrench.
To use the oress as a removal tool you use one of the tools that matches the OD of the internal surface of the bearing rather than outter surface. The catch is it only works on single bearing locations.
Not sure if i explained the properly .
I read about a mechanic that used feeling to torque.
And would occasionally use a torque wrench to recalibrate his feeling. To make sure his judgement was correct.
little filing or machining should get that deralier alignment tool working perfect.
I love Ztto stuff man, their actual bike parts are really good.
Hey Seth, I have those housing cutters and my latch works perfectly! Decent cutters that work on 1/4 inch stainless cable just fine
I bought a full R7000 105 groupset from Aliexpress, took 4 days to arrive and is exactly as described
Finally a new video from Seth !!
We got that cable cutters from topre for a couple of years, stop hook grinded down and now not working, spring flies down as soon as you stop the pressure on the handles
6 years and running on Zitto's bb30 outboard bearings+ tool for removing and installing! 14€ + 5€ for shipping!
Good value,and long lasting!
Greetings from Croatia 😎
1 million baby!!!!!!!!
that's a lot of babies
i was thinking of buying that derailer hangar aligner from toopre, thank you so very much for testing. greetings from Germany
ZTTO seems to just make good affordable tools. Seth liked their grips as well.
The Ztto stuff is pretty good usually. You need to know what you’re looking for but they have some good stuff. For example a pretty neat dropper lever, with a ball bearing
I've got a cheap DH adjuster that I got on Amazon. It has the same frustrating problem with play, but it does work.
Topree have two different types of derailleur hanger tools, the beautiful cheap aluminum one that you have tested and an ugly stainless steel one which is double the price. I would suggest giving that one a shot in the next video.
Canyon provides a cheaper version of the torque meter. The numbers and hash lines aren't even painted and it definitely doesn't have extra bits. Made it fun to try to read during assembly. Eventually I put sharpie lines on the numbers I needed.
Love these videos. Would also love to see some Temu products. I’ve had decent luck with them and it usually ships much faster
I’m enjoying these Ali Express videos. Keep them coming.
You could get lucky and save money for occasional use tools. For more frequently used tools, get known quality.
Thanks for being the R & D tester.