Giving me the itch to throw down my crutches and head to the shop... of course with the surgery I had yesterday I’d be left laying on the floor staring at the bench. Gotta hand it to you, much of what i do comes from watching you. My inspiration loves you while my wallet cries. Keep it up! sparky on!
are these finishes food safe? I intend to use my counters to knead bread, pasta, pie crusts etc and I want to make sure that I'm not accidentally poisoning myself or my family Thanks
Is it appropriate to use one of Arm-r-seal's water based finished for a countertop? I'm doing a large countertop that has to be done onsite and want to keep the fumes down.
I've been using General Finishes' Arm-R-Seal for a long time, from bookshelves to fruit bowls. I've found it is really convenient to add a little stain to the first coat, like 50/50 mix, when one wants to darken the wood a bit.
After watching this video I bought a pint of this stuff for an oak 32” round table top. I’m now a believer! It’s really easy to apply and yields a great finish that is as good as any from a top furniture maker.
Used satin arm r seal on my kitchen island/countertop refinish. It's a dream. Put six or seven coats on the top 5 on the underside. It's so durable it is easily cleaned with light soapy water and even withstood a bit of blistering from a hot pan my wife set on it.
I used this to coat a laminate wood wall decal, put probably 30 coats on, wet sanded with 2000 grit, buffed with auto polish, looked like a sheet of glass, loved it
Arm-R-Seal is a good choice. However, in this case, I would have been tempted to go with walnut oil. Walnut oil, like tung oil and boiled linseed oil, is a 'hardening' or 'curing' oil. That is, with exposure to oxygen, walnut oil polymerizes into a durable finish. You can speed up curing with heat. On the lathe, I like to wet sand with walnut oil. The heat from sanding helps the oil to cure. Usually, within a couple of days, an item is cured enough to be put to use. Arm-R-Seal has the advantage of being a more durable finish than walnut oil. So, why would I have been tempted to use walnut oil? It's self-repairing. If a portion of the finish is worn through, there's no need to sand the old finish back before applying a new coat of walnut oil. Simply clean the clean the area and wipe on some walnut oil. Let the oil soak in and, after 30 minutes or so, wipe off any excess. That ease of maintaining the finish would have been very attractive. Besides, I just like the idea of walnut countertops being finished with walnut oil!
I've heard of some streaking on large projects with Arm-R-Seal Satin so it was really useful to get your tip to frequently stir it to keep the flatteners dispersed. Thanks so much for this video. For me, it was perfect information and perfect timing.
I did a tub surround in Wenge. I was going to coat it in West Systems epoxy but that made the surface very dark like Ebony. I ended up using Safecoat gloss and Safecoat satin water-based polyurethane. I have found that no matter what the manufacture instructions from any H2O PU, application with foam brushes work the best at minimizing bubbles. I ended up applying 12 coats (admittedly I was done at 10 but the surface wasn't blemish free until 12). It has been Installed 2 years now with no water stains, or blushes. One thing I did differently when finishing this piece was more sanding than I ever would have done in the past. I used the 3M sanding sheet that is elastic over felt pad and I blocked the surface until it was completely flat. This, in fact, took most of the first through third coats off. It was filling in the grain which made a great base for the next layers to build on. I usually think that it takes 3 coats of H20 PU to equal 1 coat of oil. I let it cure at least 12 hours but generally 24 between coats, then I left it for a week to harden. After that 0000 steel wool to break the sheen and the waxed with paste wax.
If you are also using a wood counter for a cutting board, I would recommend a food safe finish such as mineral oil, same as butcher's block oil but cheaper. I built a 6 foot cutting board style counter in my kitchen with a bar sink in it and the mineral oil is holding up fine, just have to wipe on a coat when it starts looking dry.
I used Arm-R-Seal on several tables I made . One was Cherry the other was Maple had to apply five to six coats before it stopped soaking into the wood and it's a great finish
@@daveerickson5313 It's held up great with the daily use from 10 people eating 3 meals a day . We do use place mats and thick not pads under the hot pans
After watching several videos, I like what you are doing. Great attention to detail, and I love the reasoning and explanation. I am going to apply this to a Maple Desk I am making.
Waterlox is also great! Though it is pretty noxious until the solvents evaporate. It's nice to also have a second option. Have you tried this for flooring?
I have to restore my dining room table. My kids spill so much water and leave it for hours. The table is ruined. I guess I'll be gluing porcelain tiles on the table. Lol.grout it with Sikaflex. Cheers from Australia just subbed.nice tutorial. Thanks heaps
We used Rubio Monocoat for our oak butcher block countertop. Been 11 years without a re-coat, tho those would have probably been worthwhile. Only issue is long term contact w water (e.g. someone leaving a wet glass on the surface overnight).
I love my wood butcher block counter top. It's a great surface and adds a lot of warmth and character to the kitchen. But, I went a different route for a finish... I have birch wood, and the finish I chose was Waterlox Satin finish. It came out a beautiful golden color, AND it's truly water proof, and VERY stain resistant (this last part was a happy surprise). Standing water/liquids do not affect it at all. The biggest thing to keep in mind is that you can not put hot items on the counter top. You have to use a hot pad, but it's an easy habit to form. But toasters, toaster ovens, and such are not an issue. As for dents, dings as the years go on, they add character. But the Waterlox will slowly re-flow any slight surface finish dings over time. But if it's to deep, it's easy to get out the sand paper and sand the spots and reapply the finish. Personally I haven't had the need to do it, yet. I like the dings and such. As for sealing the underside, it is HIGHLY recommended to seal the underside of the wood above a dishwasher. Just extend the sealing coat a foot or so on each side of the dishwasher to the underside the counter top. Some people tend to open the dishwasher after the cycle has run to let things dry out. This lets out a lot of steam, that can affect unsealed wood.
I used Waterlox on my butcher block countertops and I wish I had done the underside where the dishwasher and the sink are. The countertop has started to de-laminate and an 18" section between the sink and the stove, has actually bowed. Oh, and it will stain. One of my offspring jiggled a full coffee mug and it overflowed. They didn't clean it up right away and it left a very noticeable stain that will not come off without serious sanding and re-coating.
Thanks for getting back to me so quick on the water and drink glass stain. I'm going to attempt a kitchen counter including a kitchen sink. The wood I have chosen mostly because of Colour but it is extremely dense is Purple Hart . And don't have a heated shop and live on the Northwest coast so I have many concerns 😟 LOL
Thanks for the video. Answered a lot of my questions for my next build. one questioned left. Do you finish the mitere joint before or after the joint is assembled? any cracking of finish with movement?
Thanks for this countertop video series! I just put a wood countertop in my kitchen. I didn’t have time or space to finish with a more durable product, so I’m going with mineral oil and food safe wax/conditioner for now. I’m hoping to put something lower maintenance on in the future. . Can this be used on a countertop that’s already been soaked with oil? 30 days is a long time to not use a countertop already in place. Do you have any alternative suggestions?
I've used both, but Waterlox is the most indestructible counter funish there is. It withstands decades of abuse before needing a refresher coat. It doesn't keep in the can though. Buy only what you need.
I purchased unfinished butcher block countertops and cut them to fit. I was told that Waterlox was one of the best finishes you could buy. I followed the instructions very closely and they looked great for awhile. A few years in, not decades, the finish dulled, even on the side of the kitchen that didn't have water. In areas near the sink, the wood started to de-laminate. A section between the sink and the stove, about 18" wide, actually bowed. I'm guessing that water got between the sink and the countertop and the bottom of the countertop got wet. I doubt this was due to the material or the Waterlox, but was related to my sink install. The dulling, however wasn't due to the installation.
I just turned down a job to repair a maple top that had horrible stains around the faucet and cracks above the dishwasher. The client said the C top maker was a jerk because he refused to fix it again. They said they had two spare tops that were slightly damaged that he left in the basement... I left. I agree with JusBidniss... Granite it is.
Arm-R-Seal is my 2nd favorite finish! I use 1 coat then do a wet sand with every coat after, usually stop around 3. I use this finish on wood pieces that I want to stay looking like plain wood. Thanks for the video, I'll try out your method.
Hey James, have you ever heard of Odies Oil? I used that on my 13.5' x 4' solid walnut countertop and it is amazing. I had a tung oil finish on it before and did not like it so I switched to the Odies. Might want to check them out, great finish for all wood projects, even turnings.
I’m getting ready to finish a plaque I made for a gift. It’s made out of a nice piece of cherry wood. I routed out a strip on 1 side, and put a piece of walnut veneer in the strip. Sanded it down to flush and it is beautiful. I then used a wood burner to burn in a nice heartfelt saying. Once again, sanded over the burnt area to clean it up. I plan on using Waterlox as a coating. But have never used it before. I enjoyed your videos on Waterlox, and think it will really bring out the beauty of the cherry and walnut veneer. Question 1 (most importantly): Can Waterlox spontaneously combust? Question 2: Do you think the Waterlox will react well with the burnt wood writing? Question 3: My workshop is in my basement, and not ventilated at all. It’s pretty cold outside. Should I move up to the garage for applying the Waterlox? It will still be cold in the garage (around 50 degrees). I could always bring temp up in the garage, apply, then open up for ventilation afterwards. Thoughts?
Thanks for all the good advice. Would this work on a Pastry Board. I need to make a new one for a client and there are almost too many options. If I allow this to cure for 30 days, or completely, will it be a good choice. I have used different finishes in the past with okay results. I really wish to find a finish that will hold up to making bread and things like that. However, I would like something that would hold up as long as a sharp tool isn't used to cut the dough.
I like Arm R Seal. I applied it to a baltic birch subwoofer I built for my brother, who has 3 young kids. It's held up well so far. Very easy to apply. My biggest complaint is that the nearest dealer is a 45 minute drive from me.
I'm going to redo our kitchen counters using hickory and remembered seeing your walnut tops which were absolutely, unbelievably, amazingly, stunningly beautiful. I was wondering what type of finish to apply so I naturally searched youtube for your tops and, voila! Thank you so much for all the help and advice. I am a subscriber but never seem to get any alerts. What is wrong?
You did't show this in the video but I think it would be a good idea to put the same finish on the underside this way changes in humidity won't cause cupping.
James had to watch this a second time to catch the "poly-urinate" slight. On your recommendation, I tried Arm-R-Seal and love it. Question, have you tried any ceramic coatings such as Black Forest over Arm-R-Seal? Found a couple of You Tubers that swear by it but thought I would check with the "Expert" first.
Im making a black walnut bar top and really love how shellac looks but need some protection. Can I apply this over shellac to get the depth and protection I need?
I've watched this video several times in preparation to seal my butcher block counter tops with Arm R Seal. What I'm most hesitant about is that they have been treated several times over the past 4 years with Howard's Butcher block conditioner. Really after about a month that stuff seems to be pretty ineffective at repelling water, but I have been reading some not so encouraging blogs about the difficulty in removing the conditioner before applying Arm R Seal. I've read that they might need many cleanings with Naptha, and even a lot of scraping to rid the wood of the oil and wax. But then another video said that the conditioner doesn't even really penetrate that deeply. The guy at my woodworking shop, where I got the Arm R Seal seems to think that a good wiping with mineral spirits will do the trick. So.... I've started with the tops (I have 6 separate areas totaling 85 sq ft) that I've treated the least, and the longest ago. For two tops that I haven't treated that much, I just sanded with 300 grit. A third one I sanded starting with 80 grit up to 300 grit, and then wiped it down with mineral spirits before applying the fist coat of Arm R Seal. It looked like raw wood after the sanding. I couldn't feel any oiliness. That was just an hour ago, so fingers crossed! Any advice for proceeding with the counter around the sink where I have used the most conditioner, and the last treatment was about a month ago??? Please help!
Why not get some scraps of wood, apply some conditioner, let it dry and then put the Arm R Seal on it. See what happens? Arm R Seal is an oil-based product. If your conditioner is oil based, there may not be a problem. Mineral spirits will dissolve wax, which may be the reason he said to try removing it with that. I suspect mineral spirits is a main ingredient in Arm R Seal as well.
Thanks! I want to finish a 1.5" thick butcher block-style table top like this. Do I have to finish both sides at the same time? Or can I finish one side, let it cure for 30 days, and then do the other side? Thanks!
I'd do at least one or two coats on the underside as you go. Put a coat on the underside first, then flip it over onto some painter's pyramids (amzn.to/49rx0bo) while you work on top side. When everything is dry, repeat for the next coat, again starting on the underside so it is always the one on the painters pyramids, in case they leave marks.
Very informative thank you. Do you have any recommendations of what type of "varnish" or sealer to use on a new pine floor. I was think of 2 coats BLO and one coat thinned out polyurethane which I got from your oil video. Would this be durable enough for pine flooring?
naturally we can't get armour seal in nz. though i see they call it a wiping urathane. i have found in nz, a good way to finish counter tops, as there really isn't a big choice, is to use flooring urethane. when it sets it, is a very resistant finish.
Hi Stumpy, I had a custom dining room table and the end result was pathetic. Since they are in Canada getting them to correct the issues doesn't really work. The issue is that when they applied the oil, many areas kept soaking up the oil and they didn't bother to keep applying. Then they applied wax and a ceramic liquid. The end result is areas of "dry" wood. I believe you are right that Arm-R-Seal is the way to go. My question is what is the smartest way to remove what they did and then apply Arm-R-Seal? Thanks for your time. Bill
I really enjoy watching your videos.ive made desk tops out of plywood and I’m about to tackle my counter tops but is there a golden rule against using like a maple plywood as a top instead of solid wood?beside having to use solid wood on the edges would that be a mistake?
Thanks Stumpy. Can you recommend a wood finish for red oak in the bath/ shower area? The arm r seal looks interesting but maybe too wet an area for it.
General Finishes' Arm-R-Seal is not available in Australia. However I use Osmo and found it to be very good. It is also applied in almost the same way. I believe Osmo is available in most countries.
Totally agree on the finish. Looks great on our maple top. Ditto on a coat on the underside too. One thing I noticed using the titebond 3 is the color of glue (brownish) actually shows up on maple so titebond 2 may be better for lighter woods?
Question what is the best way to attach a butcherblock top to the cabinet base or if you are going to attach butcherblock to a table skirt for a table top as well?
James, I just put together some butcher block countertops, I've been looking all over for the best finish for it, it's a rental property and I want something that's durable that doesn't require a lot of maintenance and recoating. What would be your absolute number one go to for this? Would it still be the arm-r-seal? I have seen some videos where people are swearing by the waterlox sealer/finish followed with their second coat product. And then you have fiddi's hard wax oil.. just wondering what you think since you're arm-r- seal video is 4 years old if you would still go that way.
Be careful with it for 30 days. Don't set drinks on it and leave a ring. Wipe up liquids quickly. If you have small appliances (a blender, toaster, etc) put a soft cloth under them.
OMG! I would never have considered wood for a kitchen counter top.....but that was an absolutely gorgeous addition to that kitchen. I have never used Arm-R-Seal. I’ve watched numerous videos espousing it’s virtues and ease of use, but this is the first one I’ve seen that’s going to “push me over the edge” to use it. I’m restoring a turn of the century walnut breakdown armoire.....I think Arm R Seal is going to be its finish. I just finished restoring a Gunn barrister bookcase (in mahogany and oak)....due to water damage, I had to restore the color with oil stain. Can Arm-R-Seal be applied over stain? As an aside, my best friend is Sailor, my Australian Shepherd. Was that an Aussie puppy in your video? Her/his colors (same as mine) accentuated that counter top perfectly!! Bravo-Zulu, Stumpy.....another great video!
Arm R Seal can be applied over any oil based stain.... We have a Mini Australian Shepherd. She wasn't quite a year old in this video, but that's about as large as they get. She replaced a full sized Aussie that passed away a year and a half ago.
Stumpy Nubs Thank you for that quick reply! Regarding the loss of your Aussie a year and a half ago....that must have been hard! This breed has a way of “connecting” that I’ve not seen in many other breeds....and losing any family dog is never easy.....so I am sorry for your family’s loss. It’s funny - as in coincidently funny - I just told my wife the other day, that at 65, after 45 years of stress-filled military and law enforcement careers, I probably don’t have it in me to train another full size Aussie.....and that I’d like to consider a miniature Aussie (we’ve heard of a good breeder of mini-Aussies here in western Massachusetts). So we will see. Again, thank you, sir.....and I really do enjoy your videos and your unique presentation! Take care....and I wish you and your family a most happy, safe and healthy Independence Day!
Your countertops are lovely! We are waiting for our butcher blocks to arrive so we can begin the Armor Seal process. I wonder if you would tell me what router bits you used to create the edge profile? I quite like yours, but I have not yet found a bit or combination of bits to match what you did. My husband and I very much enjoy your videos. Very informative!
If I could do it again, I'd do a profile without sharp edges. They wear easily and you have to touch up the finish on them often. Choose a rounded, simpler profile.
Ok, thanks so much for that tip. Good to know that before we start edging and finishing ours, which just arrived yesterday. Happy dance! We are excited to get started.
Beautiful! I have Hickory wood countertops but I hand rubbed stain on them with 4 coats of polyurethane 5 years ago. They are starting to show the use and abuse. What can I put on the finish to protect it & take the dullness out of them?
A couple of choices. Lightly sand it down with high grit, 600 or more, sand paper and repoly it or get some wax, like Mother's car wax and an electric buffer and buff them. I've had good results with both choices.
If those are the only three choices, I would go with the MDF because it is the least expensive when it needs to be replaced (as all sheet goods will if you use them for a bench top). MDF is also dense and heavy, something that a benchtop will benefit from. But I would put hardwood edge banding on the front edge to protect it.
Hi James. I’ve been enjoying your videos for a long time.I’m loving this series on the countertop and have one question.I have a butcherblock countertop which was finished with raw linseed oil. Would the finish you just used on the walnut be able to go over the top of the linseed oil as a new finish or would I need to plane it down?
I'd contact General Finishes on that one, but I'm guessing you're kinda stuck with the oil finish from here on out since it penetrates the wood. It'd be difficult to get it all out, making adhesion of a new finish such as Arm-R-Seal risky.
In any case if you have a true end-grain butcher block, you'd be better off with a non-hardening finish such as mineral oil anyway, as a film finish could chip and crack when you cut on your butcher block. If you have a long-grain surface like shown in the video, see my previous response.
For a butcher block, cutting board, or other surface that will contact food, I recommend a stable oil that is edible. Grape seed oil or walnut oil come to mind.
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Giving me the itch to throw down my crutches and head to the shop... of course with the surgery I had yesterday I’d be left laying on the floor staring at the bench. Gotta hand it to you, much of what i do comes from watching you. My inspiration loves you while my wallet cries. Keep it up! sparky on!
are these finishes food safe? I intend to use my counters to knead bread, pasta, pie crusts etc and I want to make sure that I'm not accidentally poisoning myself or my family
Thanks
Is it appropriate to use one of Arm-r-seal's water based finished for a countertop? I'm doing a large countertop that has to be done onsite and want to keep the fumes down.
@stumpynubs would you recommend this for a table? I’m trying to find a finish that won’t leave a ring when I put a coffee mug on it
@@LoneWolfRanging Yes I would. This will not leave a ring.
I just wanted you to know how much your straight forward knowledge and skills are appreciated.
I've been using General Finishes' Arm-R-Seal for a long time, from bookshelves to fruit bowls. I've found it is really convenient to add a little stain to the first coat, like 50/50 mix, when one wants to darken the wood a bit.
I always appreciate your thoroughness. Very helpful. No gimmicks or schticks like I see a lot of videos.
Your presentation and teaching skills are something to be marveled at. Nice work man.
After watching this video I bought a pint of this stuff for an oak 32” round table top. I’m now a believer! It’s really easy to apply and yields a great finish that is as good as any from a top furniture maker.
I wish I could hand around you and watch you work, absolute fountain of knowledge! Great video as always!
Used satin arm r seal on my kitchen island/countertop refinish. It's a dream. Put six or seven coats on the top 5 on the underside. It's so durable it is easily cleaned with light soapy water and even withstood a bit of blistering from a hot pan my wife set on it.
I used this to coat a laminate wood wall decal, put probably 30 coats on, wet sanded with 2000 grit, buffed with auto polish, looked like a sheet of glass, loved it
Arm-R-Seal is a good choice. However, in this case, I would have been tempted to go with walnut oil. Walnut oil, like tung oil and boiled linseed oil, is a 'hardening' or 'curing' oil. That is, with exposure to oxygen, walnut oil polymerizes into a durable finish. You can speed up curing with heat. On the lathe, I like to wet sand with walnut oil. The heat from sanding helps the oil to cure. Usually, within a couple of days, an item is cured enough to be put to use.
Arm-R-Seal has the advantage of being a more durable finish than walnut oil. So, why would I have been tempted to use walnut oil? It's self-repairing. If a portion of the finish is worn through, there's no need to sand the old finish back before applying a new coat of walnut oil. Simply clean the clean the area and wipe on some walnut oil. Let the oil soak in and, after 30 minutes or so, wipe off any excess. That ease of maintaining the finish would have been very attractive. Besides, I just like the idea of walnut countertops being finished with walnut oil!
I love arm-r-seal. Used it on steps and some custom speakers.
Love love love arm-r-seal! Very forgiving to apply and looks like a million bucks when you are done.
I've heard of some streaking on large projects with Arm-R-Seal Satin so it was really useful to get your tip to frequently stir it to keep the flatteners dispersed. Thanks so much for this video. For me, it was perfect information and perfect timing.
I love Arm-R-Seal! Nice tips about the differences in 3 coats and brown paper bag.
Great advice about sanding between coats and limiting the number of coats. We are all tempted to add many many coats. Great vid. :-)
I did a tub surround in Wenge. I was going to coat it in West Systems epoxy but that made the surface very dark like Ebony. I ended up using Safecoat gloss and Safecoat satin water-based polyurethane. I have found that no matter what the manufacture instructions from any H2O PU, application with foam brushes work the best at minimizing bubbles. I ended up applying 12 coats (admittedly I was done at 10 but the surface wasn't blemish free until 12). It has been Installed 2 years now with no water stains, or blushes. One thing I did differently when finishing this piece was more sanding than I ever would have done in the past. I used the 3M sanding sheet that is elastic over felt pad and I blocked the surface until it was completely flat. This, in fact, took most of the first through third coats off. It was filling in the grain which made a great base for the next layers to build on. I usually think that it takes 3 coats of H20 PU to equal 1 coat of oil. I let it cure at least 12 hours but generally 24 between coats, then I left it for a week to harden. After that 0000 steel wool to break the sheen and the waxed with paste wax.
Very thorough and thoughtful. thank you.
Thank you. I always learn something from watching your videos. Awesome job.
Countertop looks amazing James! I love arm r seal haven't used anything else on my furniture builds since I found out about it 7 years ago
another great video. If I ever build a house it will have wood countertops. I'm sold on that
If you are also using a wood counter for a cutting board, I would recommend a food safe finish such as mineral oil, same as butcher's block oil but cheaper. I built a 6 foot cutting board style counter in my kitchen with a bar sink in it and the mineral oil is holding up fine, just have to wipe on a coat when it starts looking dry.
I do not see how this guy gets anything done with such a slim tool selection… definitely needs a sponsor.
He is brilliant! His quality of work is a reflection of talent, a tradesman never blames his tools.
@@pinksalt1057 I believe that was sarcasm. The wall behind him is covered in woodworking tools
R/whoosh
I am a long time follower and subscriber and I love your TH-cam channel! Always lots of ideas and smart advice - thank you!
I used Arm-R-Seal on several tables I made . One was Cherry the other was Maple had to apply five to six coats before it stopped soaking into the wood and it's a great finish
Kenneth Kolman how did it wear over time?
@@daveerickson5313 It's held up great with the daily use from 10 people eating 3 meals a day . We do use place mats and thick not pads under the hot pans
After watching several videos, I like what you are doing. Great attention to detail, and I love the reasoning and explanation. I am going to apply this to a Maple Desk I am making.
Waterlox is also great! Though it is pretty noxious until the solvents evaporate. It's nice to also have a second option. Have you tried this for flooring?
Simple instructions, but it does need a lot of dedication to do it right.
great tips, thanks. I didn't know you should keep mixing satin finishes like that.
what gets me is they charge more for a gloss finish, yet satin is just gloss with dullers. satin should therefore cost more.
@@TaylerMade Shhhhh!
Great video! Very informative and well explained. Exactly what I was looking for as I'm about to use Arm-R-Seal for the first time.
I have to restore my dining room table. My kids spill so much water and leave it for hours. The table is ruined. I guess I'll be gluing porcelain tiles on the table. Lol.grout it with Sikaflex. Cheers from Australia just subbed.nice tutorial. Thanks heaps
We used Rubio Monocoat for our oak butcher block countertop. Been 11 years without a re-coat, tho those would have probably been worthwhile. Only issue is long term contact w water (e.g. someone leaving a wet glass on the surface overnight).
Thanks James, I always learn something worthwhile from your videos. And those counters look great.
I love my wood butcher block counter top. It's a great surface and adds a lot of warmth and character to the kitchen. But, I went a different route for a finish... I have birch wood, and the finish I chose was Waterlox Satin finish. It came out a beautiful golden color, AND it's truly water proof, and VERY stain resistant (this last part was a happy surprise). Standing water/liquids do not affect it at all.
The biggest thing to keep in mind is that you can not put hot items on the counter top. You have to use a hot pad, but it's an easy habit to form. But toasters, toaster ovens, and such are not an issue.
As for dents, dings as the years go on, they add character. But the Waterlox will slowly re-flow any slight surface finish dings over time. But if it's to deep, it's easy to get out the sand paper and sand the spots and reapply the finish. Personally I haven't had the need to do it, yet. I like the dings and such.
As for sealing the underside, it is HIGHLY recommended to seal the underside of the wood above a dishwasher. Just extend the sealing coat a foot or so on each side of the dishwasher to the underside the counter top. Some people tend to open the dishwasher after the cycle has run to let things dry out. This lets out a lot of steam, that can affect unsealed wood.
I used Waterlox on my butcher block countertops and I wish I had done the underside where the dishwasher and the sink are. The countertop has started to de-laminate and an 18" section between the sink and the stove, has actually bowed. Oh, and it will stain. One of my offspring jiggled a full coffee mug and it overflowed. They didn't clean it up right away and it left a very noticeable stain that will not come off without serious sanding and re-coating.
Thanks for getting back to me so quick on the water and drink glass stain. I'm going to attempt a kitchen counter including a kitchen sink. The wood I have chosen mostly because of Colour but it is extremely dense is Purple Hart . And don't have a heated shop and live on the Northwest coast so I have many concerns 😟 LOL
I've not used Arm-R-Seal before but I will try it now on other projects. Thanks for the instructions.
Always enjoy you videos!! Would you recomend semi-gloss or gloss on the countertop?
Thanks for the video. Answered a lot of my questions for my next build. one questioned left. Do you finish the mitere joint before or after the joint is assembled? any cracking of finish with movement?
Thanks for this countertop video series! I just put a wood countertop in my kitchen. I didn’t have time or space to finish with a more durable product, so I’m going with mineral oil and food safe wax/conditioner for now. I’m hoping to put something lower maintenance on in the future. .
Can this be used on a countertop that’s already been soaked with oil? 30 days is a long time to not use a countertop already in place. Do you have any alternative suggestions?
I've used both, but Waterlox is the most indestructible counter funish there is. It withstands decades of abuse before needing a refresher coat. It doesn't keep in the can though. Buy only what you need.
I purchased unfinished butcher block countertops and cut them to fit. I was told that Waterlox was one of the best finishes you could buy. I followed the instructions very closely and they looked great for awhile. A few years in, not decades, the finish dulled, even on the side of the kitchen that didn't have water. In areas near the sink, the wood started to de-laminate. A section between the sink and the stove, about 18" wide, actually bowed. I'm guessing that water got between the sink and the countertop and the bottom of the countertop got wet. I doubt this was due to the material or the Waterlox, but was related to my sink install. The dulling, however wasn't due to the installation.
Thank you for sharing!
I just turned down a job to repair a maple top that had horrible stains around the faucet and cracks above the dishwasher. The client said the C top maker was a jerk because he refused to fix it again. They said they had two spare tops that were slightly damaged that he left in the basement... I left. I agree with JusBidniss... Granite it is.
Arm-R-Seal is my 2nd favorite finish!
I use 1 coat then do a wet sand with every coat after, usually stop around 3.
I use this finish on wood pieces that I want to stay looking like plain wood.
Thanks for the video, I'll try out your method.
Hey James, have you ever heard of Odies Oil? I used that on my 13.5' x 4' solid walnut countertop and it is amazing. I had a tung oil finish on it before and did not like it so I switched to the Odies. Might want to check them out, great finish for all wood projects, even turnings.
Thanks
Gonna try this on some mesquite.
Thanks for the video. They look great. What do you think of General Finishes High Performance vs Arm R Seal?
This is perfect as I'm preparing to build my counter-tops out of hickory. Thank you!
I’m getting ready to finish a plaque I made for a gift. It’s made out of a nice piece of cherry wood. I routed out a strip on 1 side, and put a piece of walnut veneer in the strip. Sanded it down to flush and it is beautiful. I then used a wood burner to burn in a nice heartfelt saying. Once again, sanded over the burnt area to clean it up.
I plan on using Waterlox as a coating. But have never used it before. I enjoyed your videos on Waterlox, and think it will really bring out the beauty of the cherry and walnut veneer.
Question 1 (most importantly): Can Waterlox spontaneously combust?
Question 2: Do you think the Waterlox will react well with the burnt wood writing?
Question 3: My workshop is in my basement, and not ventilated at all. It’s pretty cold outside. Should I move up to the garage for applying the Waterlox? It will still be cold in the garage (around 50 degrees). I could always bring temp up in the garage, apply, then open up for ventilation afterwards. Thoughts?
Great tips from a Pro!!🤙🏼
Thanx
Outstanding video!!!...."Polyurintate".....I damn near spit up my coffee!!!!...An informative video with a touch of humor...Well done!
Thanks for all the good advice. Would this work on a Pastry Board. I need to make a new one for a client and there are almost too many options. If I allow this to cure for 30 days, or completely, will it be a good choice. I have used different finishes in the past with okay results. I really wish to find a finish that will hold up to making bread and things like that. However, I would like something that would hold up as long as a sharp tool isn't used to cut the dough.
Awesome series
I like Arm R Seal. I applied it to a baltic birch subwoofer I built for my brother, who has 3 young kids. It's held up well so far. Very easy to apply. My biggest complaint is that the nearest dealer is a 45 minute drive from me.
Is there a video of yours that describes how to glue up such wide counters?
Thanks for the video!
Thanks James I always learn something new watching your video's
Is it possible to apply this with a paint sprayer?
Maybe during the first couple of coats?
I'm going to redo our kitchen counters using hickory and remembered seeing your walnut tops which were absolutely, unbelievably, amazingly, stunningly beautiful. I was wondering what type of finish to apply so I naturally searched youtube for your tops and, voila! Thank you so much for all the help and advice. I am a subscriber but never seem to get any alerts. What is wrong?
TH-cam stopped sending out email alerts a couple years ago.
@@StumpyNubs So, what do I do now?
@@blakedozier1131 You have to check your subscriptions page
@@StumpyNubs Found it, I think. Didn't even know I had one.
You did't show this in the video but I think it would be a good idea to put the same finish on the underside this way changes in humidity won't cause cupping.
That's the underside you see being finished near the beginning of the video. You can tell from the sapwood and flaws.
James had to watch this a second time to catch the "poly-urinate" slight. On your recommendation, I tried Arm-R-Seal and love it. Question, have you tried any ceramic coatings such as Black Forest over Arm-R-Seal? Found a couple of You Tubers that swear by it but thought I would check with the "Expert" first.
I was like, "did he say poly-urinate"? Lol
Great quality video as always. We are about to replace our old counter tops and this is good information.
Any suggestions on alternatives to this product? Shellac maybe?
Damn Stumpy! Looks good
Great video Stumpy, I wanted to try this finish, thanks for the instruction
What is a good light blonde colored hardwood for a countertop? something that might hold up better against cuts
I'm not a fan of wood counter tops but your procedure will certainly be appropriate for any wood surface. Thank you.
Hi I'm new at this learning more and more every day but I have a big ? Can I use American classic walnut water based wood stain on chipping board's.
Im making a black walnut bar top and really love how shellac looks but need some protection. Can I apply this over shellac to get the depth and protection I need?
Would you recommend this for a bar top?
Awesome looking countertop. Thanks for sharing.
Okay ... I've got a birch counter top and will give this a try !!! Along the same lines, can you recommend a finish for an ash T&G floor?
Will this adhere if a coat of linseed oil is applied first?
I want to burn would and make it into a countertop, would everything still apply? Also do I have to worry about food grade with the sealant?
Is it a good idea to have Arm-R-Seal Oil Based Topcoat over dewaxed (Garnet) Shellac finish? This is for Kitchen cabinets. If not, what is your go to?
I've watched this video several times in preparation to seal my butcher block counter tops with Arm R Seal. What I'm most hesitant about is that they have been treated several times over the past 4 years with Howard's Butcher block conditioner. Really after about a month that stuff seems to be pretty ineffective at repelling water, but I have been reading some not so encouraging blogs about the difficulty in removing the conditioner before applying Arm R Seal. I've read that they might need many cleanings with Naptha, and even a lot of scraping to rid the wood of the oil and wax. But then another video said that the conditioner doesn't even really penetrate that deeply. The guy at my woodworking shop, where I got the Arm R Seal seems to think that a good wiping with mineral spirits will do the trick. So.... I've started with the tops (I have 6 separate areas totaling 85 sq ft) that I've treated the least, and the longest ago. For two tops that I haven't treated that much, I just sanded with 300 grit. A third one I sanded starting with 80 grit up to 300 grit, and then wiped it down with mineral spirits before applying the fist coat of Arm R Seal. It looked like raw wood after the sanding. I couldn't feel any oiliness. That was just an hour ago, so fingers crossed! Any advice for proceeding with the counter around the sink where I have used the most conditioner, and the last treatment was about a month ago??? Please help!
Why not get some scraps of wood, apply some conditioner, let it dry and then put the Arm R Seal on it. See what happens? Arm R Seal is an oil-based product. If your conditioner is oil based, there may not be a problem. Mineral spirits will dissolve wax, which may be the reason he said to try removing it with that. I suspect mineral spirits is a main ingredient in Arm R Seal as well.
Thanks! I want to finish a 1.5" thick butcher block-style table top like this. Do I have to finish both sides at the same time? Or can I finish one side, let it cure for 30 days, and then do the other side? Thanks!
I'd do at least one or two coats on the underside as you go. Put a coat on the underside first, then flip it over onto some painter's pyramids (amzn.to/49rx0bo) while you work on top side. When everything is dry, repeat for the next coat, again starting on the underside so it is always the one on the painters pyramids, in case they leave marks.
Ok James, so when you're going to use a word like "polyurinate" you really need to give us a heads up that it's coming. I was drinking coffee!
I caught that too... my brother and I both did a “double take” when we heard that hahaha
As an older guy, I am very accustomed to this.
Ya, that drew a snicker outa me.
@@sar4x474 Gettin' old ain't for sissies, Brother. Testify!
And he says it with such a straight face!
Very informative thank you. Do you have any recommendations of what type of "varnish" or sealer to use on a new pine floor. I was think of 2 coats BLO and one coat thinned out polyurethane which I got from your oil video. Would this be durable enough for pine flooring?
Thanks for the ideas
Great series James!
naturally we can't get armour seal in nz. though i see they call it a wiping urathane. i have found in nz, a good way to finish counter tops, as there really isn't a big choice, is to use flooring urethane. when it sets it, is a very resistant finish.
Hi Stumpy, I had a custom dining room table and the end result was pathetic. Since they are in Canada getting them to correct the issues doesn't really work. The issue is that when they applied the oil, many areas kept soaking up the oil and they didn't bother to keep applying. Then they applied wax and a ceramic liquid. The end result is areas of "dry" wood. I believe you are right that Arm-R-Seal is the way to go. My question is what is the smartest way to remove what they did and then apply Arm-R-Seal? Thanks for your time. Bill
I really enjoy watching your videos.ive made desk tops out of plywood and I’m about to tackle my counter tops but is there a golden rule against using like a maple plywood as a top instead of solid wood?beside having to use solid wood on the edges would that be a mistake?
Thanks Stumpy. Can you recommend a wood finish for red oak in the bath/ shower area? The arm r seal looks interesting but maybe too wet an area for it.
General Finishes' Arm-R-Seal is not available in Australia. However I use Osmo and found it to be very good. It is also applied in almost the same way. I believe Osmo is available in most countries.
Thank you for sharing, super useful! You are v good at explaining and making it sound easy!
Question: Once you have stained the walnut countertop, can you seal it with epoxy? Will this protect it and still leave the glossy look?
If you want it to look like plastic, by all means, use epoxy. Arm-R-Seal looks WAY better, in my opinion.
I want o do a butcher block center island with Arm-rSeal would you use the same process as you did on you counter tops
What are your thoughts of using 600 or 660 sandpaper between layers?
Totally agree on the finish. Looks great on our maple top. Ditto on a coat on the underside too. One thing I noticed using the titebond 3 is the color of glue (brownish) actually shows up on maple so titebond 2 may be better for lighter woods?
You know it’s gonna be a good video when you see this style of intro in 2020
Question what is the best way to attach a butcherblock top to the cabinet base or if you are going to attach butcherblock to a table skirt for a table top as well?
James, I just put together some butcher block countertops, I've been looking all over for the best finish for it, it's a rental property and I want something that's durable that doesn't require a lot of maintenance and recoating. What would be your absolute number one go to for this? Would it still be the arm-r-seal? I have seen some videos where people are swearing by the waterlox sealer/finish followed with their second coat product. And then you have fiddi's hard wax oil.. just wondering what you think since you're arm-r- seal video is 4 years old if you would still go that way.
Just watched your great video, thanks. Did you say leave it it for 30 days??!!
Be careful with it for 30 days. Don't set drinks on it and leave a ring. Wipe up liquids quickly. If you have small appliances (a blender, toaster, etc) put a soft cloth under them.
If I used a satin finish first, and changed my mind and wanted a higher gloss, could I apply high gloss over satin?
Yes, but if the original finish is fully cured, you may have to scuff it us with some sandpaper to make sure the fresh coat binds to it.
OMG! I would never have considered wood for a kitchen counter top.....but that was an absolutely gorgeous addition to that kitchen. I have never used Arm-R-Seal. I’ve watched numerous videos espousing it’s virtues and ease of use, but this is the first one I’ve seen that’s going to “push me over the edge” to use it. I’m restoring a turn of the century walnut breakdown armoire.....I think Arm R Seal is going to be its finish. I just finished restoring a Gunn barrister bookcase (in mahogany and oak)....due to water damage, I had to restore the color with oil stain. Can Arm-R-Seal be applied over stain? As an aside, my best friend is Sailor, my Australian Shepherd. Was that an Aussie puppy in your video? Her/his colors (same as mine) accentuated that counter top perfectly!! Bravo-Zulu, Stumpy.....another great video!
Arm R Seal can be applied over any oil based stain.... We have a Mini Australian Shepherd. She wasn't quite a year old in this video, but that's about as large as they get. She replaced a full sized Aussie that passed away a year and a half ago.
Stumpy Nubs Thank you for that quick reply! Regarding the loss of your Aussie a year and a half ago....that must have been hard! This breed has a way of “connecting” that I’ve not seen in many other breeds....and losing any family dog is never easy.....so I am sorry for your family’s loss. It’s funny - as in coincidently funny - I just told my wife the other day, that at 65, after 45 years of stress-filled military and law enforcement careers, I probably don’t have it in me to train another full size Aussie.....and that I’d like to consider a miniature Aussie (we’ve heard of a good breeder of mini-Aussies here in western Massachusetts). So we will see. Again, thank you, sir.....and I really do enjoy your videos and your unique presentation! Take care....and I wish you and your family a most happy, safe and healthy Independence Day!
Your countertops are lovely! We are waiting for our butcher blocks to arrive so we can begin the Armor Seal process. I wonder if you would tell me what router bits you used to create the edge profile? I quite like yours, but I have not yet found a bit or combination of bits to match what you did.
My husband and I very much enjoy your videos. Very informative!
If I could do it again, I'd do a profile without sharp edges. They wear easily and you have to touch up the finish on them often. Choose a rounded, simpler profile.
Ok, thanks so much for that tip. Good to know that before we start edging and finishing ours, which just arrived yesterday. Happy dance! We are excited to get started.
If your wooden countertop gets a dent, would you also recommend trying the un-dent trick with a clothes iron and some water before re-sealing it?
It would be unlikely to work since the finish will prevent the fibers from absorbing the moisture needed to swell back up.
Beautiful! I have Hickory wood countertops but I hand rubbed stain on them with 4 coats of polyurethane 5 years ago. They are starting to show the use and abuse. What can I put on the finish to protect it & take the dullness out of them?
A couple of choices. Lightly sand it down with high grit, 600 or more, sand paper and repoly it or get some wax, like Mother's car wax and an electric buffer and buff them. I've had good results with both choices.
which is the best top for a workbench . oak plywood or MDF or melomine all 3/4 thick
If those are the only three choices, I would go with the MDF because it is the least expensive when it needs to be replaced (as all sheet goods will if you use them for a bench top). MDF is also dense and heavy, something that a benchtop will benefit from. But I would put hardwood edge banding on the front edge to protect it.
Nice tnx. Do you need to coat 2 sides of the wood if we are making a cupboard or other furniture out of it so that it does not bend over time?
Hi James. I’ve been enjoying your videos for a long time.I’m loving this series on the countertop and have one question.I have a butcherblock countertop which was finished with raw linseed oil. Would the finish you just used on the walnut be able to go over the top of the linseed oil as a new finish or would I need to plane it down?
I'd contact General Finishes on that one, but I'm guessing you're kinda stuck with the oil finish from here on out since it penetrates the wood. It'd be difficult to get it all out, making adhesion of a new finish such as Arm-R-Seal risky.
In any case if you have a true end-grain butcher block, you'd be better off with a non-hardening finish such as mineral oil anyway, as a film finish could chip and crack when you cut on your butcher block. If you have a long-grain surface like shown in the video, see my previous response.
For a butcher block, cutting board, or other surface that will contact food, I recommend a stable oil that is edible. Grape seed oil or walnut oil come to mind.