WOW! I wish I had seen this two weeks ago before I refinished my table all wrong. Actually I did it wrong twice and just hated it. After seeing this video I sanded it down to bare wood AGAIN and did it this way and...magic. After 200 sanding pads and 3 different polyurethanes I finally have the table I will have for the rest of my life. I wish I could post a picture. Thank you so much.
Depends on your personal preferences… im I usually just sand, then stain and get started…. Some people use prestain conditioners, some people make sure to use tack cloths and such to clean of all the dust… Check out the follow up video I linked in the description for a little e information on it
@@PMKWoodworking help. I need to find part 2 of this video. I've been scrolling by can find it. Can you pm it to me... Sadly when you post a link here you can't click it so it doesn't take you anywhere. Thanks!
Strange… it is linked in the description and appears to be clickable. I just clicked on it and went to the video. You can also search PMK Woodworking tabletop Q and A and it usually pops up as one of the first couple of links. The thumbnail is a close up of a round dining table with flowers on it
I wanted to come back and tell you this is the last (wood finish poly) video I’ll ever watch because this method worked like a charm. We bought an antique oak French oval dining table off fb marketplace on the cheap because it was cracked, I repaired the crack and sanded it down and stained it np. Finishing wood was something I had only done once before, I used a $30 high end brush and it was a disaster I watched countless boring videos and read all kinds of things on forums THIS IS HANDS DOWN THE BEST METHOD!
I am not going to comment on the amazing video, but i will say that I have never seen a youtuber reply to EVERY comment like you do...THAT is amazing, thank for taking the time to answer the questions that people have, we viewers learn as much from those Q & A as from the videos!
Thank you so much! That's why I'm on here. I dont make ant money off TH-cam and very little off of Amazon and getting free stuff from sponsors and supporters, I am here to help spread knowledge and experience as well as learn from others. Thanks for watching!
Just wonderful, I been tryin to find out about "best wood to use for making a dining table" for a while now, and I think this has helped. You ever tried - Fenadelyn Esteemed Framework - (should be on google have a look )? It is an awesome one of a kind guide for discovering how to improve your woodworking skills without the hard work. Ive heard some decent things about it and my partner got cool success with it.
Thank you, Phil. I got into woodworking about 6 years ago and have been gun shy using poly since the few times I tried it, it was a disaster. I recently took on a commission piece ( a desk with a knotty pine top). I was researching on youtube the best way to get a good poly application when I came across your video. I must admit I was still very gun shy, as I had tried once on this top and it was horrendous once again. I sanded it all down re-stained and put your method to the test. It came out beautiful. I know you said you learned this method by combining the methods you had learned from TH-camrs and magazines. This is without a doubt my go-to method and has instilled in me the confidence that I no longer fear the dreaded polyurethane. You have definitely contributed to my journey of becoming a better woodworker. Thank you for sharing. PS: I notice you have 13k likes on this video and not one thumbs down. That is a feat in itself. It seems no matter how good a video, there will always be trolls. You reached 100% positivity with this video, congrats on that!
Thanks! I definitely love the support and I LOVE the success that my viewers and subscribers have had using this method! And yes, I’m absolutely not sure how I have not gotten the haters attacking me… I’m sure it will happen at some point😁😅😂
By reducing the urethane as much as you did (actually way over thinned) you have cut the driers in the product in half , far less driers than needed to properly dry a standard full coat . By applying the wipe coat method the reduced drier amount becomes a non issue . (in fact wipe application , unthinned, would be a bad idea). I learned finishing from several master finishers ~ 50 years ago (glad you use oil base) and it was standard to use sometimes 16 coats ( including a number of shellac 'wash' coats and very fine grain fillers to achieve a very deep epoxy like finish . (I have pieces done 40+ ago that look like ' done' yesterday ) Very viable approach !!
NICE! glad to hear from such a knowledgable source! I have a lot of beginners and DIYers who visit this channel as well as consummate professionals and dudes who really know their stuff, so I just consider it an honor to be able to play in the same sandbox! Thanks for watching!
What an education I just got. I don't know what drives you. Cannot be easy creating a video and the time it takes you. Never wrote to anyone on these DIY's but I was so impressed with your knowledge. Had to take a moment to thank you
You are our Hero! We have been using Old Masters oil based Polyurethane on our kitchen farm table. The instructions say not to thin it so we didn’t. We have tried several different methods - 6 coats of brush applying the poly and all of them left streaks. We just tried your paper towel application method and the table looks perfect! I wish we had seen this video before we spent $50 in brushes! Great informative video and technique!
Oh man! That sucks! Good news is, you can always send your table top smooth and simply apply two or three coats using my method if you’re unhappy with what you’ve already done.
This is exactly how we did it as professional residential painters when everyone was staining and putting poly on their kitchen cabinets. Stain, thin poly, put on and go back over to eliminate strokes, sand what is dried and go over up to a couple times more. Makes a beautiful finished product.
I'm 64 years old and never thought about using a paper towel to apply poly. I just tried it on a oak table top and used the 50/50 mix and was very pleased. It looks like I do a lot of the same type projects that you do and I am enjoying watching your videos.
I am in the middle of building my first table (9' x 3.5') and have spent hours searching online and watching videos for the most durable method of finishing that will not leave a glossy (epoxy) look once I have it stained. This has by far been the most helpful video I have found on this topic. I will be using your method in a couple weeks once I get to that step of the process. Thank you.
definately! for the best finish, make sure to get matte or satin polyurethane and STIIIIIIIIIIIIRRRRRRRRRR a lot, every time you go to use it, stir it making sure to get all the sediment off the bottom, and after stirring let it sit for about 10 minutes for any bubbles to dissipate and you;'ll get an amazing finish. Thanks for watching, and feel free to SHARE this video on social media for a chance to win a prize in my 3,500 sub giveaway!
Never knew about mixing mineral spirits with polyurethane. I just finished a painted bedroom set using a brush. The entire time, I was screaming in my head that wiping it on would seem so much easier. Well, thanks for clarifying!!
You might have saved me months of waiting time. I have to redo pretty much all of my furniture ( new house/ damaged during move) I have to match each room's color scheme but its taking forever I'm gonna try your method. fingers crossed and thanks for the idea...
I just finished stripping down and refinishing a tabletop that I finished a couple of years ago. Originally I finished it with a brush and was never happy with the results. This time I followed the steps in this video and the results were AMAZING. Not a single brush mark and I was able to complete it much faster than with a brush.
First started watching you thinking what is he doing with all of the Turps, then I watched in AWE, and the well all I can say it wow wow & wow, the end result says it all. Thank you for your video and tutorial, I have been procrastinating on how I can finish off a live edge slab that is going to be my kitchen bench top. And now I think this is the way I will go... Thanks again much appreciated
I refinished a 14 foot long table top (at a beach house overlooking the ocean in Delaware) and it took me a day and a half to sand the top through the grits. I used your finishing method, and I am thrilled with the results. I must’ve watched this video five or six times, just to get every little detail correct. I’m pretty good with creating furniture, but I’m a disaster typically, with painting and finishing it. I get impatient and I start glopping it on. With your super cool method, I have a smooth, even, professional looking finish, and I can’t thank you enough for this video. And I have to say, the two hour dry time was a pleasure with the view! I hope you and yours made it through the rough weather in Tennessee and you’re all good. Thank you!
THANK YOU so much! I'm glad it worked so well for you! I still use this technique on just about everything I do, AAAAAAANNNNND I just figured out that since this is pre_Mixed now, it is SUPER awesome to use in a HVLP sprayer! it is a little thin so you have to spray FAST! but you can easily spray a few coats in a day, wait till they dry, then sand and spray again for a great sprayed finish!!!
@@PMKWoodworking do you have a suggestion for which pre-mixed kind to purchase? I am staining my table top a gray-brown color and I want to make sure it doesn't get too yellow. Also, if i used this technique(pre mixed or the method in your video), can i spray on the last coat using regular spray-on poly?
I would not suggest using the premixed, because it is very overpriced for what it is... I would suggest mixing it like i show in the video, because it is great for wiping AND spraying all from the same can!
Best instructions on you tube man I wish I watched before I ruined my table top , I’m stripping now and re doing with confidence , I messed up my bread board so bad . Thanks For this video Sir
Hi Phil: I'm taking a moment to report back the results of my refinish project. Table top was solid oak. Sanded back to raw wood with first 80 and then 100 grit. Final sanding went from 180, 220 and last 320. Mixed floor grade oil based poly with oil based mineral spirits (why was it milky white? Never seen that before!). First medium coat wiped on with lint-free wiping cloth. Waited 3 hours, applied 2nd coat. Waited overnight. Light sanding with 400 grit. Third medium coat applied, waited 3 hours, 4th coat, over night, 400 grit light sanding, 5th coat applied and wiped to thin coat with new applicator cloth, waited 3 hours, 6th coat applied and wiped thin. Tomorrow morning I'll do a light sanding with 1000 grit, rub with brown paper sack and finish with Johnson paste wax. At this moment it looks AMAZING! Would you like a couple of pictures? Thanks for your fabulous contribution!
When u pour one gallon to the other to mix and stir and its correct to pour back and forth five or six times that is called "BOXING THEM TOGETHER " and it makes sure everything is mix properly but great way to show everyone how to mix it like a professional great job bro!!!!!
“And boom goes the dynamite!” 🤣🙌🏼Yes!! I throughly enjoy your videos, thank you for not being incredibly dull like a majority of the others out there. 🤙🏼 Many Thanks!!
Used this on a budget HD pine table top and I must say, this method is AWESOME! So much better than brushing it on. I’m glad I found this video. I think I’m a wipe-on convert for life now.
THATS AWESOME!!!! most people who watch my stuff are using HD construction grade pine and stuff like that, good thing is that this method works on literally ANY species!
PMK Woodworking absolutely, I can see why. I hope my comment didn’t come off as if this technique is “budget” or only suitable for cheap DIY projects. On the contrary, I think the fact that it works so well even on crappy wood speaks in its favor. If I had a $1000 dining table and wanted to finish it with poly, I would definitely be using this. I wish we could post photos here, I’d put up a photo of the table, just put the 6th coat on now. I think I may leave it at that, I’m getting impatient to get it out of my garage 😂
ha ha m not at all! Iget a good range of responses, but most seem to be in the "Holy CRAP! I cant believe i ve never seen this awesome technique!" range lol Hit me up on instagram and show me your final product. and also, DONT RUSH IT! go ahead and do like 4-6 more coats and sand between every 2-3 coats! you'll REALLY like the final result!
Thanks! Check out this follow up for more info and another mix using booked Lindseed oil. How To Finish Your Dining Table Professionally Q&A (BONUS NEW 3-2-1 MIX!)
A friend and I are making two country style kitchen tables for our wives and we were exploring how to finish - so glad I've found your channel (now have subscribed!) and your great instructional video on this subject. Thanks so much for sharing - you do great work!!!
Glad it was helpful! im going to be posting some long form and very boring videos on table top joinery and farmhouse table construction soon, so stay tuned!!!
Thank you, after 3 coats multiple sags, runs and the ugly plastic look. I sanded down my round stair rail and used your method. It came out perfect. Thanks again for your video. It works!
Great video! The only difference between Gloss, Satin, and Matte poly is the amount of "flattening agent" they add (usually zinc oxide). Plain old polyurethane dries glossy, so that's the cheapest to produce. You can always just use glossy for everything, and then sand it with 600 grit at the end to knock off some shine.
true, I think I covered this in the video, but if not... I usually do the opposite. I like to get Matte or Satin poly, and if I want it more glossy, I simply dont stir it. ^_^
The higher the sheen the greater the durability is. Higher the sheen the more solids left on surface after the vehicle evaporates. Have commonly applied full gloss on early coast and lower gloss on final aplications. Gives surface more durable finish.
Wowsers, this could work. After hours and hours of prep and covering with wood paint, I have a polyurethane varnish (Matt) to apply and I stumbled across this video at EXACTLY the right time. Cheers PMK from a real novice in the UK
That’s awesome! If you have any further questions feel free to hit me up on Instagram, and definitely check out this video! How To Finish Your Dining Table Professionally Q&A (BONUS NEW 3-2-1 MIX!)
Thanks for this, two attempts at refinishing with brush sanded back to base wood and tried your technique it’s working great! Wish I could return those $24 brushes
SUPER GLAD I could help! when you get to that final coat, you can also make sure to use a tack cloth to clean off the dust and get an absolutely flawless finish.
PMK Woodworking my final coat looks great. Should I use the tack cloth to try and polish it? I have some little bumps I normally use sandpaper but don’t want to dull final finish
@@PMKWoodworking I hear tackcloths getting mentioned a lot, I wipe with a dampened rag with white spirit, and that kinda works. Do you buy tackcloths, are they reusable, do they wash through? Sorry for the questions, but I love learning how to do things better.
A friend sent me this link and this meeting saved my bacon... Countless restarts using bushes and t shirts, could never get a nice look.. either streaks, waves,... The paper towel was magic.. perfect applicator... Thank you so much!!!!
Thank you so much! I sanded and recoated my hutch with a brush and a sponge brush getting nothing but streaks. I was so mad and about to give up. This was what I needed. Now, it’s perfect 😃
That’s so awesome! Just finished can definitely be used in multiple applications, but it’s a lot easier to apply to table tops😅 I’m glad it worked so well for you!
I’ve watched a pile of videos before finishing the table I built for my sailboat. Using the paper towel was a game changer. I was hesitant and worried about lint. I decided to try it. No need to clean brushes minimal waste and a smooth finish!
So glad it worked for you! That is the exact same reason why I use the Scott blue shop towels because they are lit free and extremely durable. I have had extremely good results of them not leaving bubbles or left behind and they hold up pretty well even on the rough coats before sanding
I just got done finishing a farm house table with this technique. It looks fabulous!! Is there anything you recommend doing after the last coat? Paste wax?
Nothing I recommend, the final coat should look awesome, but you can always feel free to add anything you like. Oil, paste wax, whatever you prefer. I personally do nothing, just make the last coat as perfect as possible, even if I have to wet sand and apply another coat.
Painter here.... If you would take a small screwdriver and punch three holes where your tape is on the inside rim, the product will drain back in. And it still seals with the lid. No mess. Love the information you provided. I going to try this on a old farm table.
Absolutely! I just learned that recently and now every time I do this mixture I drill a hole in the rim using a small drill bit. It really helps cleaning up the mess and prevents the canned from either ceiling itself or allowing air to enter in and dry everything out.
Awesome video. I'm from the UK, I have used the old solvent based poly when younger, and more recently use water based as it is cleaner with regards to brushstrokes, though still has issues. In the UK we are always trailing the US with regard to woodworking equipment, glues and wood finishing products. A new one on me, but I can see that wipe on poly is definitely the way to go for these types of surfaces, I'm so glad I know what wipe on polyurethane actually is now. Better still, I know I can mix it up myself in a similar way to mixing tung oil for its first coats on new wood. Many thanks.
Phil; YOU are an amazing man! You posted this video in 2018! I see you continue to respond to viewer comments as new as a week, 3 weeks, 4 weeks ago! Who does that? Absolutely AMAZING! By the way, remember that round oak table and 6 chairs my friend bought at thrift store for $40? (the one I applied 6 or 7 coats using the method you teach in this video).... They sold their home, moved a fair distance away and sold that table & chair set for $650.00! I think they did well! LOL They should send you some sort of commission to you because, without your re-finishing method you taught here, I seriously doubt they could not have done much more than simply making a donation to another thrift shop!
HA HA !!! Thats AWESOME!!! They should venmo me a cut! lol but actually there are a ton of people who do restorations like that for a living or as a hobby and they make those kind of sales! its insane! I'm so glad to hear they made some serious cash for such a little investment!
When working with new and existing cans of poly, you can take a nail or screwdriver and punch 3-4 holes into the slot where the lid goes. When you use the material or when you put the lid back on, the drippings (more of them) go back into the can then down the side or onto the workbench. I really like the idea of wiping the thinned poly onto the wood. Never thought about doing that. Thank you.
Very nice! How many coats do you recommend for the "thinned out" polyurethane on a dining table? My table is either maple or mahogany, not exactly sure.
Thanks! I talk about that a little bit more in my follow up video you can check out here: How To Finish Your Dining Table Professionally Q&A (BONUS NEW 3-2-1 MIX!)
Thanks for this video. I just refinished a white oak table using your methods and it came out FABULOUS! BTW I used 340 grit sand paper in between each coat to smooth out the finish and it was perfect. Thanks again!!
you did! lol I typically do 2-3 coats, then sand and repeat, do this 3-4 times for 12-16 coats, and finish off with a final sanding and final thin coat of poly.
@@PMKWoodworking I just bought a new dining table and want to use polyurethane on it. Would I sand it first, and if so what size sandpaper would I use?
probably should give it a good sanding, if your takihng the finish off and restarting, maybe start with 150 ad then 220. if your not taking the finish off start with 220 grit.
I'm a amateur/hobbyists (for a few months now) carpenter and I could never figure out how to get a really professional looking finish on my wood works. Thanks for this video!
Great tips. I’ll be finishing a mid sized farm house table this weekend. Question if I may. My client changed her mind on color from a white wash to now wanting a very light more natural look. My boards are not very consistent so I think I need to use something like a gel stain first then apply my poly. Would you agree or have a better suggestion?
first, make sure your client is PAYING for the change, if you have already done the whitewash. also, avoid gel stain or tinted poly at all costs for this type of finish. (you will easily get streaks and uneven coloring that CANT be fixed) just use traditional stain and before you apply the poly maybe consider this... in the past I have found two stains that are very close to one another ad in the same color family. I applied the darker of the stain to the lighter boards and the lighter looking stain to the darker boards and got a etter blend of colors. also let your client know that a "Natural" look is going to have much more variation than say a whitewash or a dark stained table top. then yes, apply your poly using the methods from this video ^_^
In the process of building tables for our friends coffee shop. Will be using this technique on some old red oak barnwood and well as new construction lumber. Can't wait to see what this method looks like on the final product. Thanks for sharing!
Just be VERY CAREFUL with the barnwood and plan on MANY layers! Red oak has very deep pores and the old barnwood usually has a lot of checks and fissures that are beautiful but THIRSTY! plan on about 3 coats then sand and repeat and ALWAYS use a tack cloth and air sprayer, and probably mineral spirits to clean the surface before the next coat of poly. if not your pores will turn white and get clogged with dust and ruin the finish. luckily this isn't a problem with pine, especially construction grade stuff. just use a heavy duty paper towel for both species and you should be good to go.
two quick questions. And I'm sorry if you already answered them. you have a lot of comments to go through :) 1- you mentioned you can do 3 coats in one day. How many coats do you do total? And 2- do you finish the base or legs to the table in the same way or is this just for the table tops? Thanks for the great video!
I typicallly do 12-16 coats. 3 rough, then sand, 3 smoother, then sand, three really thin and smooth, final sand and final coat, sometimes two coats depending on how the final coat finishes out. I DO finish the apron and legs the same way IF the table is one stain color. BUT I usually do MANY less coats because it is time consuming and lately I have been using the same premixed poly through my HVLP sprayer to apply two or three coats to the base without sanding if possible. Thanks for watching!
That is so awesome to hear! Definitely make sure you were using a high-end paper towel such as the “Scott brand” paper towels I link to in the description. They are much more durable and do not leave behind any lint
Hi would it be ok to use a blue lint free shop towel? Also what sanding grit to use between poly coats? Thank you. I loved this video and learned so much
yes, definitely apply poly to stained legs as well. I'm currently working on a dining table with stained top and stringers, but painted legs. I usually stain and apply two coats of poly to the legs, followed by a smooth sanding and one last coat of poly.
Stain wont seal the wood like paint does it only stains it, so if you left it only stained with no poly then dust will build up on the raw wood then start to discolor the stain.
I love applying polyurethane this way; it sure beats a brush. I have just noticed some fine scratches from sanding. I sand after every 3 coats; this is my second time to sand. (lightly with 400) I didn't notice the scratches before. Your thoughts on this?
You’re probably standing too much or pressing too hard, or… You might actually be catching some debris underneath your sandpaper... typically I apply three or four coats then do a light sanding and when I apply my next one or two coats you can sometimes still see the scratches but usually by the third or fourth coat the scratches go away. If you’re using 400 grit sandpaper try wet sanding with mineral spirits making sure to get rid of all the material and not to trap any debris underneath your sandpaper while sanding. This will give you a smoother surface and less chance of scratching. Then make sure you’re applying enough polyurethane to fill in the holes on your next three coats or when you apply your final coat.
thank you so much....your instructions were so clear anad percise....I am a novice to this...and starting out on a small project. I have watched other videos...but after watching yours...I feel confident I can do this with some sort of success. Thanks again
That’s awesome! Thanks for watching! Definitely read through the comments below as a lot of people have had a lot of questions but I have been able to answer. And make sure to pick up a roll of blue “Scott“ shop towels as they are the best paper towel out there for this process! You can find a link on my Amazon store and in the video description.
Thanks for posting this! I never had any luck applying a smooth finish with a brush. After watching this video, I made a mix of 40% mineral spirits/60% urethane and wiped it on a well-sanded table top using squares cut from an old t-shirt. I applied 6 coats in a row, one every two hours with minimal sanding with 600 grit after the third coat, and buffed the entire thing with #0000 steel wool after the finish had dried. The end result is a super-smooth finish, far superior to anything I've done in the past. There are some long, subtle streaks (they are hard to describe) that run the same direction as I applied the finish (with the grain of the boards). any idea what those might be or what caused them? They are not obvious enough to detract from the quality of the finish.
That is probably very simply the line where you were dragging the rag and it caused the finish to flatten out because of uneven pressure. I’ve had that happen before as well. Typically I simply apply a slightly thicker coat the next time so they will take a little bit longer to dry and the lines will not be visible when cured
I have this happen when its too dry or hot in regards to heat & humidity in shop especially with water based, the product starts to dry leaving an uneven sheen. iv learned you need to re-wet the hole thing and wipe faster or letting it be sand back down when dry, chasing it will cause blotchy streaks and may need fully stripped with suspended pigment hybrid stains..
Thanks for taking the time with the video. My oak table is sectioned off in squares with the grain in different directions (veneer I believe ) about 2x2 sections. I am concerned with working small sections “in grain” during the polyurethane step. (Had somewhat mixed results staining) seems like switching directions halfway across table could be problematic for the amateur I am. Also the table is huge with 2 leaves, wondering if doing half at a time may be smarter or cause more problems. Your opinions would be appreciated. (Photo available if description is lacking)
so... this may take a little "Artistic" skill, but if you mess up, just do it again! ^_^ Feel free to email me a photo: pmkwoodworking@gmail.com Personally, I would coat the whole table top using swirls like waxing a car. Then, fold the shop towel into quarters and dip it into the poly. Then without unfolding it, start to use it as a brush. Starting where the pieces meet at the corners start your application by pulling in the direction of the grainright next to the edge of the piece going a different direction, JUST like the breadboards at the end of the video. Repeat this for each square and any other edges of veneer you have opposing grain direction. also, do the leaves seperate. Hope that helps, and shoot me an email if you have any more questions or need more clarification.
PMK Woodworking .....good plan...I will report back, temperature dropped so will wait a day or two...did send a photo but Your response indicates you understand my plight ...thx again
aaahhh yes! after looking at the photo I see your problem, I still think what I said above stands. just work quickly so it doesnt start to tack up before you can drag with the wood grain.
Thankyou for your help today. I tried the thinning idea on some gloss varnish to finish my dining table. The results are stunning. Compared to the original consistency the thinned varnish is so easy to work with. And using a paper towel to apply is genius. No more brush marks. Perfect results every time. Thanks again. 😁😎
Timing is Key ! Great technique, and I was planning on doing this tomorrow anyway. Saw other vids where they use a thin initial layer, but I think your method makes more sense. Also, you mentioned using an oil based poly. What differences have you seen between the two?
If you take a very small flat screwdriver and punch through the bottom of the rim where the lid sits 4 or 5 times, your poly will drain through the holes back in the can. The can will still seal when replacing the lid. Nice job and well presented.
Thanks so much for making this video. Sooo good! My question is do I have to buy a Gallon of the polyurethane if I will only be applying it to the top of my kitchen table? I am trying to be as conservative on costs and realistically dont see me finishing anything else for a couple of years therefore no need to have a half gallon in reserve. Thanks again for doing this!
You do NOT have to purchase an entire gallon of both chemicals. In fact, if you can find a smaller container of mineral spirits you can definitely get a smaller container of polyurethane. Just make sure to mix them 50-50 based on volume
Nicely done! one tidbit, I would not sand 1st coat since it is so thin. It is more like a seal coat so after 2nd coat and each thereafter proceed with sand between coats and obviously don't sand final coat.
Not sure if it just didn’t come through in the video, but check out my follow up video here: How To Finish Your Dining Table Professionally Q&A (BONUS NEW 3-2-1 MIX!) And that’s when I talk about the sanding technique and I typically apply three coats, then sand, then apply three more coats, then sand, and continue repeating this until I get to the final finish I like.
I remember watching my Dad use this method when I was growing up. He always used a folded paper towel and he learned that from his Dad. I thought it was a standard way to refinish Wood, but after reading all of these comments I guess not many people knew about it. Cool video. I want to refinish my dinning room table and chairs but I’m too chicken shit to do it. Lol
DOOOOOOO IIIIITTTTT!!!!!!!!! here's a free tip: PAINT the chairs and base! Use a "Self Etching Primer like this one: amzn.to/38HvhjD and then paint them., Then you only have to sand and refinish the Table top and seats!!! Plus that color scheme is totally on trend right now. it'll save you a TON of frustration, sandpaper, hours, and strippers (the chemical kind) ^_^
So glad I watched this! This weekend I was going to brush the polyurethane and to be honest I was dreading it. Now I’m just going to wipe it on. Thanks
almost... if you actually WATCH the video, it can be applied with a good paper towel to avoid the brush strokes, and YES you can and SHOULD put more coats on. multiple thinner coats provides much more strength and much faster cure times!
To sum it up, 50/50 mix poly/mineral spirits, apply with rag with the grain, which he prefers over the look of brush on. Lots of filler info for those with the time to watch. Thanks for posting.
Good question! same technique except that you start your stroke on the edge and pull the paper towel up and over the die to the opposite end and run right off the edge, after youve donne all the faces, simply wipe the excess off of the end grain and youre done.
Thank you- am using this for my 10' dining table restoration. Just one Q: what is the sanding technique in between poly-mix coats? What grit level, etc? Thank you
So thankful for this! Haven’t started my table yet as I’m very intimidated, BUT I’m excited to get it done. For sure going to do this method once I’m done
@@PMKWoodworking I will! Just did my cuts today, and am planning to assemble tomorrow. Borrowing my uncles clamps to do my table top glue up. Crossing my fingers for success
Hey Man, just wanted to comment on your latest comment lol.. on another comment down the comment section more I saw you wrote every 2 poly coats (or was it between each coat lol) but that you use your orbital sander on the LOWEST SPEED/POWER, do you use 320 grit and go up or do you do as I heard you say in this video and use only 400 in between each coat… My orbital sander has one speed HIGH lol is that too much force? Also is it better to sand between coats by hand or orbital sander? Thanks man I made my first wood butcher block breakfast table with 2x4 prime pine and stained it (some pieces are only sanded/Unstained) It’s small 31”by 26”. Excited to use your process to finish it 🙏🏼
Typically I do two or three coats in between sanding. And I go up in grit usually starting with 220 for my first sanding, 220 wet for my second sanding, 400 wet for my third sanding I’m at leaves me with about 12 coats including my final coat. If your orbital sander does not have multiple speeds it is definitely too fast and will burn the polyurethane causing it to melt and make a little yellow pills all over and leave swirls ruining your finish. I would highly suggest you get the wood as smooth as possible before applying finish, then apply three coats, sand with 220, apply three more coats of sand with 220 again, apply three MORE coats and it should feel pretty smooth already, if it does you can go ahead and wet sand with mineral spirits and 400 grit and start applying your final coats.
Unfortunately no, spar can’t be thinned… for outdoor applications save yourself the heartache and get Total Boat Halcyon. amzn.to/2Yt6YWG This is what I use on my kayak and it is awesome!!!
Great video! I have a table that someone painted but the original finish was washed oak (I think.) I have other tables made by the same manufacturer, Thomasville. How would I figure out what type of matte finish is on them so I can match the now stripped table? Thanks so much for your help.
You would probably have to get in touch with the manufacturer to find out, but they usually pretty stingy about that information… If the table is already stripped I would say it wouldn’t really matter, just try to find a finish that is a similar level of Matt versus satin versus glossy and reapply.
First off thank you very helpful. A few questions. After that first pass with the wet cloth you where originally using. I think you used that same cloth to do the final wipe to even things out to level it per-say. Correct? And how long did you wait to do that second wipe? Thanks again your awesome
Great questions! I think I covered this a little bit in my follow up video with a link to a description. I typically DO use the same paper towel multiple times assuming it is not falling apart or has not got dirt in it or debris or anything else that would ruin the finish. But don’t feel like you need to save the world by saving and reusing paper towels, simply use it for one or two applications then throw it away. I’ve also had applications where I’ve use three or four paper towels because one will rip or I will drop it on the floor or something stupid will happen which makes me have to use an all new paper towel. I DO recommend when you start using a new towel you want to fully submerge it and squeeze out all the air bubbles a few times which will allow The polyurethane to fully penetrate the towel which will help reduce air bubbles and streaking later Depending on how accurate your mix is, relative humidity in your shop and in your area, and the temperature during drying, plus the relative humidity of the wood itself, you will end up with a dry time typically between 8 to 24 hours. If I’m in a hurry I will apply multiple thin coats in one day typically first thing in the morning, late afternoon, and possibly a third coat before closing the shop. However, you have to make sure you are PASSED the tacky stage even if you are not hard enough to sand. Let it sit at least overnight if not 24 hours before sanding then you can apply between 1 to 3 coats per day depending on how quickly it flashes out of the “tacky” stage.
First couple of coats should be gloss with the finish coat satin. Satin is a much softer finish. To get rid of the finish down in the groove put nail holes in the bottom of the groove and it will drain back into the can. Take a look at the Sam Maloof finish.
Thank you so much for this video. I used this method but there were streaks after my first coat dried. The whole surface was wet when I applied it, but when it dried, some parts were dull like they had no finish on, and some parts were satin looking, making the whole thing very streaky. Not sure what went wrong?
Give it another coat or two and see if this continues to happen. You may have slightly too much mineral spirits in your mixture which is perfectly fine, simply mix and stir your polyurethane but before the next application let it sit with the lid off for about 10 or 15 minutes before applying your polyurethane. Also, consider applying the coatjust a little bit thicker but having a slightly more wet paper towel. That’s typically how I solve the problem with streaking by allowing some of the solvent to evaporate off and applying a thicker coat making sure to wet the entire surface.
This video is super helpful! I’m using a water based varnish that I found instead, on a table with grains going a bunch of different ways. (Essentially 4 squares leading diagonally towards the center of the table, another another edge piece on the side) How do you recommend finishing that? Can I go one direction over all of it or should I tape off the different areas and go in the direction of the grain? Thanks!
Here’s how you do it: When you are over your paper towel you will need to edges that are kind of loose and two edges that are rounded over nicely. Did you essentially use smooth rounded over edge of the paper towel as a “chip brush“ you can run the polyurethane in the direction of the green for each individual piece without overlapping onto the other piece. It takes a little bit of an extra touch and a steady hand but it is doable! I’ve done it a few times. Take a look at the part in the video where I finish the “breadboard ends““ it is essentially the same technique, except that you will be starting your stroke on or near the edge of another piece of wood going in a different direction. Do you have to do the same thing for a herringbone pattern table. Essentially dragging the paper towel from the corner of each board all the way down to the corner of the next board for every single board going each different direction.. I DO recommend that you start by getting the entire people wet by making big giant squirrels with a wet towel soak in the mixture. Then gently ring out in the towel and start dragging your pattern with the grain of each board. (Or each section of boards.)
So , after you’ve done a fist coat of clear , an after it drys the wood has dry spots , not slick spots on it .. Do u just sand an reclear ? I’m doing a farmhouse table an have ran into this with the finish
Apply 3 coats of clear.. I sometimes get spots like that when the wood is very fresh and I don’t use conditioner. It will soak in pretty easily on the first coat or two but by the time I put the third coat on it sitting on the surface a lot better. Typically that point I sand it and apply three more coats. Give that a shot and let me know how it turns out
Great video. I just sanded down and stained my old walnut dining room table. But I am having a hard time figuring out the finish because it is inlaid squares of wood, so every 8" the woodgrain turns in the other direction. Would a wipe on polyurethane be my best bet? I'm concerned about brushstrokes going against the grain on every other inlay. Thanks for your input.
It would be, however, you will still have to follow the wood grain with your paper towel. The advantage is that you can fold your paper towel into a perfect square and use it to get into the corner and then drag along the wood grain. I have to do this on my herringbone pattern tables and Barn Door’s and you wind up wiping EVERY SINGLE BOARD along the wood grain.! Simply apply a coat of polyurethane over the ENTIRE table using a swirling motion to make sure you get it into every bit, then go back and pull the polyurethane across each individual board making sure to try to match the corners perfectly with the corner of your paper towel and follow along the wood grain. Good luck!
You are a patient man, enthusiastic instructor, articulate well and are unbelievably gracious to every person that leaves a comment (even those who deserve a simple hand gesture - you are very professional). I had a friend purchase from a Salvation Army store a round solid oak dining table (so heavy!) with 6 chairs - $40! A LOT of visible "hard" use on the table top. Sanding started with 80 grit, then 120 all by hand taking it to bare wood. Next, 180 then 220 with random orbital sander. No stain, but using your method here on the clean, dust free table top should, IMHO, create a beautiful solid (perhaps family heirloom quality) dining table... now, about those 6 chairs... spindles, round, feature rich, ugh! All by hand? (Sanding)?? Any suggestions on an easier way to get to bare wood on those chairs? Use you process on chairs as well? Thanks so much!
chairs SUCK!!! lol it can add up. but I would get a spray version of a heavy duty stripper. especially the foaming kind, sticks to all surfaces and goes to work. clean it off, lightly hand sad once dry, then stain like normal and finish using this method. its time consuming, but it works well.
@@PMKWoodworking Thanks so much for your response... good things never come easy, right? Out to buy a can of foam stripper (I must remember not to get any on me!) LOL
Thank you!. Will the same technique work for chairs and other carved wooden furniture?... I have a rococo style table and I wanted to use this technique...
Yes, it will… It also makes a lot easier to run it through an HVLP sprayer which is what I would choose to do for chairs and carved furniture, personally.
Thank you SO much for this video! I am new to wood working and your information is very helpful! I only wish I had found this sooner so my first few attempts would have turned out better!
This is sooo super helpful. I’m refinishing a table and chair set for my son (5 coats of paint removed-eye roll) and I’ve watched this video several times. I’ve purchased the poly and mineral spirits and I’m going to try your technique after I apply my stain. Fingers crossed 🤞. Thank you!!
Help! I don't know much but have a big project! Table, Buffett and cabinet to paint. I'm painting, staining and applying a top coat. I was going to glaze/antique the paint with the stain. Do I need to use oil bases paint, oil based stain and the poly for the top coat? Is poly oil based? Sorry I know nothing and I'm terrifyied! Love e this video!! I've watched TONS. Yours is the BEST!!
Hey, thanks! My first recommendation would be to look into a product called “antiquing glaze“. It is an amazing water-based product that you apply over paint and it gets into all the cracks and crevices and stains the paint making it look dirty and old without making it look like it was just applied with a brush. I typically select the “Jaffa Brown“ version at my local big box home store and brush it on with a synthetic hair brush made for water base paint. Once applied to the paint let it set just long enough to get it brushed into the main areas that you want to look antiqued then start wiping it away with fresh clean paper towels. Once you have a way most of the remaining glaze it will leave some streak marks and darken up the paint color to make it appear aged. You can also leave some of the glaze in the crevices And cracks of the piece which will give it even more character. Then, simply follow up with a water-based polyurethane topcoat. I would recommend either brushing it on and doing multiple layers sanding in between, or cut it 30% with water and apply multiple layers with a paper towel sanding every third coat. Keep going until the topcoat finish you want to satisfactory. Good luck! And hit me up on Instagram if you have any other questions, I’ll be happy to answer them and check out some of your photos.
great video, thank you! helpful and very clear. what do you think about using tung oil or teak oil before applying poly in this way? will the oil’s color/finish degrade over time, or will the poly seal it in. total noob here, working on my first reclaimed wood table.
I am so happy I found your video. I just finished staining a pine vanity my husband built for me and I'm scared to apply varnish and ruin it. Your video has given me some confidence. I gather from your answers to other comments to apply three coats and then sand. How many coats total do you recommend for top of the vanity? It will have a vessel sink on top. Thank you!
If there’s going to be any sort of water exposure I would make sure to definitely pre-cut the hole for the sink so that you can fill in the end grain with polyurethane. I would recommend probably 16 to 24 coats sanding every third or fourth coat. The more layers you have the more resistant it will be too water. Also, I would consider only doing one or two coats per day. Especially if there’s high humidity in your area I would apply one coat in the morning and one coat in the evening about 12 hours apart after your fourth coat wait an additional 12 hours and give it a light sanding before starting with your next, first coat… Hope that makes sense. The additional cure time will help prevent any micro moisture from getting trapped between the layers which will help provide for the hardest possible finish and prevent any chance of moisture ruining the finish. Obviously, with polyurethane you never want water to “sit“ on the surface… But a few drops here and there from using the sink regularly that are simply wiped up with a cloth will do just fine.
Hi Phil, I just wanted to let you know I'm up to my 14 coat of poly on the vanity and it is looking great. I followed your advice, doing two coats each day (am/pm) and then I sand lightly. I know you suggested sanding every 4th coat, but sanding every morning helps me to remember to do it...old brain..lol I do have a question: after the last coat, do you buff or polish? Thanks again. I will send you a pic when is all done.
No, you don’t need to do anything after the final coat. Typically I do a nice wet sand with mineral spirits before applying my final coat, if I’m not happy with it I typically just apply another final coat on top of it until I’m happy! LOL I break it down a little bit in my follow up video here: th-cam.com/video/J_6g4oGEJ5s/w-d-xo.html
I did everything you said to do and my oak table look beautiful . I have already given it 4 coats .but how many more coats do I need to give it . Thank you for all the information .Margie
Wow this is a great tutorial, now I feel ready to redone my farmhouse table, I just got it, not what I supposed to get, but stain color is not what I wanted so I will get it done myself, so thanks a lot for this great tutorial. Is just awesome 👌
Very interesting and helpful video. I have an island countertop that I built from reclaimed wood (late 1800's dug fir). I have covered it with epoxy to fill all the voids (my wife wanted a very smooth surface that so food and liquids wouldn't get trapped) but we want a matte or satin finish so I was going to apply polyurethane. I have put on a couple coats with roller (un-thinned) and it has more texture than I usually get from the product. Wondering if your technique would work over the epoxy and poly I have currently applied?
Yes it would. I highly suggest sanding BACK down all the way to the epoxy coating, then smooth sand and apply poly using this method. Add 3-4 coats and sand, repeat a few times to build up a good solid finish, then final sand and final coat.
I'm refinishing a table with two leaves that fit between the main part of the table and the breadboards at either end. Would you finish it with the breadboards closed or open? If open, how do you move up the table: go all the way off the end and then do the next row or do you slide up on the edge of the table? (In other words, if the table doesn't have breadboards, how do you move up to the next row?) Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
So, yes, I would finish them seperately. and yes' if you do it carefully you can stroke all the way OFF the edge and start again a fes inches down. just be careful to start RIGHT ON THE EDGE and pull PAST the opposite edge. it takes a little practice, but it works
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WOW! I wish I had seen this two weeks ago before I refinished my table all wrong. Actually I did it wrong twice and just hated it. After seeing this video I sanded it down to bare wood AGAIN and did it this way and...magic. After 200 sanding pads and 3 different polyurethanes I finally have the table I will have for the rest of my life. I wish I could post a picture. Thank you so much.
OMG! That is a HUGE compliment!
Hit me up on Instagram and I’ll feature your table!!! instagram.com/pmkwoodworking
Excellent however, pre-prep??
Depends on your personal preferences… im I usually just sand, then stain and get started…. Some people use prestain conditioners, some people make sure to use tack cloths and such to clean of all the dust…
Check out the follow up video I linked in the description for a little e information on it
@@PMKWoodworking help. I need to find part 2 of this video. I've been scrolling by can find it. Can you pm it to me... Sadly when you post a link here you can't click it so it doesn't take you anywhere. Thanks!
Strange… it is linked in the description and appears to be clickable. I just clicked on it and went to the video. You can also search PMK Woodworking tabletop Q and A and it usually pops up as one of the first couple of links. The thumbnail is a close up of a round dining table with flowers on it
I wanted to come back and tell you this is the last (wood finish poly) video I’ll ever watch because this method worked like a charm. We bought an antique oak French oval dining table off fb marketplace on the cheap because it was cracked, I repaired the crack and sanded it down and stained it np. Finishing wood was something I had only done once before, I used a $30 high end brush and it was a disaster I watched countless boring videos and read all kinds of things on forums THIS IS HANDS DOWN THE BEST METHOD!
OMG, thank you so much for the great compliment!!! I'm so glad I can help!
I am not going to comment on the amazing video, but i will say that I have never seen a youtuber reply to EVERY comment like you do...THAT is amazing, thank for taking the time to answer the questions that people have, we viewers learn as much from those Q & A as from the videos!
Thank you so much! That's why I'm on here. I dont make ant money off TH-cam and very little off of Amazon and getting free stuff from sponsors and supporters, I am here to help spread knowledge and experience as well as learn from others.
Thanks for watching!
Tanks
Just wonderful, I been tryin to find out about "best wood to use for making a dining table" for a while now, and I think this has helped. You ever tried - Fenadelyn Esteemed Framework - (should be on google have a look )?
It is an awesome one of a kind guide for discovering how to improve your woodworking skills without the hard work. Ive heard some decent things about it and my partner got cool success with it.
I'm impressed with his commenting also.
Thank you, Phil. I got into woodworking about 6 years ago and have been gun shy using poly since the few times I tried it, it was a disaster. I recently took on a commission piece ( a desk with a knotty pine top). I was researching on youtube the best way to get a good poly application when I came across your video.
I must admit I was still very gun shy, as I had tried once on this top and it was horrendous once again. I sanded it all down re-stained and put your method to the test. It came out beautiful. I know you said you learned this method by combining the methods you had learned from TH-camrs and magazines. This is without a doubt my go-to method and has instilled in me the confidence that I no longer fear the dreaded polyurethane. You have definitely contributed to my journey of becoming a better woodworker. Thank you for sharing.
PS: I notice you have 13k likes on this video and not one thumbs down. That is a feat in itself. It seems no matter how good a video, there will always be trolls. You reached 100% positivity with this video, congrats on that!
Thanks! I definitely love the support and I LOVE the success that my viewers and subscribers have had using this method!
And yes, I’m absolutely not sure how I have not gotten the haters attacking me… I’m sure it will happen at some point😁😅😂
By reducing the urethane as much as you did (actually way over thinned) you have cut the driers in the product in half , far less driers than needed to properly dry a standard full coat .
By applying the wipe coat method the reduced drier amount becomes a non issue . (in fact wipe application , unthinned, would be a bad idea).
I learned finishing from several master finishers ~ 50 years ago (glad you use oil base) and it was standard to use sometimes 16 coats ( including a number of shellac 'wash' coats and very fine grain fillers to achieve a very deep epoxy like finish . (I have pieces done 40+ ago that look like ' done' yesterday ) Very viable approach !!
NICE! glad to hear from such a knowledgable source! I have a lot of beginners and DIYers who visit this channel as well as consummate professionals and dudes who really know their stuff, so I just consider it an honor to be able to play in the same sandbox!
Thanks for watching!
What an education I just got. I don't know what drives you. Cannot be easy creating a video and the time it takes you. Never wrote to anyone on these DIY's but I was so impressed with your knowledge. Had to take a moment to thank you
😅. That’s so awesome!!! I feel honored. Thank you so much!
You are our Hero! We have been using Old Masters oil based Polyurethane on our kitchen farm table. The instructions say not to thin it so we didn’t. We have tried several different methods - 6 coats of brush applying the poly and all of them left streaks. We just tried your paper towel application method and the table looks perfect! I wish we had seen this video before we spent $50 in brushes! Great informative video and technique!
Oh man! That sucks! Good news is, you can always send your table top smooth and simply apply two or three coats using my method if you’re unhappy with what you’ve already done.
This is exactly how we did it as professional residential painters when everyone was staining and putting poly on their kitchen cabinets. Stain, thin poly, put on and go back over to eliminate strokes, sand what is dried and go over up to a couple times more. Makes a beautiful finished product.
Thanks! Love it!
I'm 64 years old and never thought about using a paper towel to apply poly. I just tried it on a oak table top and used the 50/50 mix and was very pleased. It looks like I do a lot of the same type projects that you do and I am enjoying watching your videos.
Awesome! Glad you liked it!
I am in the middle of building my first table (9' x 3.5') and have spent hours searching online and watching videos for the most durable method of finishing that will not leave a glossy (epoxy) look once I have it stained. This has by far been the most helpful video I have found on this topic. I will be using your method in a couple weeks once I get to that step of the process. Thank you.
definately! for the best finish, make sure to get matte or satin polyurethane and STIIIIIIIIIIIIRRRRRRRRRR a lot, every time you go to use it, stir it making sure to get all the sediment off the bottom, and after stirring let it sit for about 10 minutes for any bubbles to dissipate and you;'ll get an amazing finish.
Thanks for watching, and feel free to SHARE this video on social media for a chance to win a prize in my 3,500 sub giveaway!
Never knew about mixing mineral spirits with polyurethane. I just finished a painted bedroom set using a brush. The entire time, I was screaming in my head that wiping it on would seem so much easier. Well, thanks for clarifying!!
Absolutely!
You might have saved me months of waiting time. I have to redo pretty much all of my furniture ( new house/ damaged during move) I have to match each room's color scheme but its taking forever I'm gonna try your method. fingers crossed and thanks for the idea...
@@steeltoeboots9591 howd it go?
@@steeltoeboots9591 I just moved into my home too. I want to scream into a paper bag 😂 my boyfriend is probably over it haha 🤣
Thank you for doing all the research for us. This is by far the best method of applying poly.
Thank you for watching
I just finished stripping down and refinishing a tabletop that I finished a couple of years ago. Originally I finished it with a brush and was never happy with the results. This time I followed the steps in this video and the results were AMAZING. Not a single brush mark and I was able to complete it much faster than with a brush.
That’s so awesome to hear! I’m so glad this video was able to help you!
You have incredible talent giving instructions. Concise and only necessary information but very thorough. Thank you, very helpful!
Thank you very much!
This is a very thorough instruction; well-paced, and explained. It is simply an outstanding video.
Thank you VERY much
I just used this method for finishing my very first client project and am very happy with the results! Thank you!
That’s so awesome!!! I’m so glad it helped! Feel free to share the video so others can learn.!
First started watching you thinking what is he doing with all of the Turps, then I watched in AWE, and the well all I can say it wow wow & wow, the end result says it all. Thank you for your video and tutorial, I have been procrastinating on how I can finish off a live edge slab that is going to be my kitchen bench top. And now I think this is the way I will go... Thanks again much appreciated
SO glad to hear it!!! thanks for watching!!!
I refinished a 14 foot long table top (at a beach house overlooking the ocean in Delaware) and it took me a day and a half to sand the top through the grits. I used your finishing method, and I am thrilled with the results. I must’ve watched this video five or six times, just to get every little detail correct. I’m pretty good with creating furniture, but I’m a disaster typically, with painting and finishing it. I get impatient and I start glopping it on. With your super cool method, I have a smooth, even, professional looking finish, and I can’t thank you enough for this video. And I have to say, the two hour dry time was a pleasure with the view! I hope you and yours made it through the rough weather in Tennessee and you’re all good. Thank you!
THANK YOU so much! I'm glad it worked so well for you! I still use this technique on just about everything I do, AAAAAAANNNNND I just figured out that since this is pre_Mixed now, it is SUPER awesome to use in a HVLP sprayer! it is a little thin so you have to spray FAST! but you can easily spray a few coats in a day, wait till they dry, then sand and spray again for a great sprayed finish!!!
@@PMKWoodworking do you have a suggestion for which pre-mixed kind to purchase? I am staining my table top a gray-brown color and I want to make sure it doesn't get too yellow. Also, if i used this technique(pre mixed or the method in your video), can i spray on the last coat using regular spray-on poly?
I would not suggest using the premixed, because it is very overpriced for what it is... I would suggest mixing it like i show in the video, because it is great for wiping AND spraying all from the same can!
Best instructions on you tube man I wish I watched before I ruined my table top , I’m stripping now and re doing with confidence , I messed up my bread board so bad . Thanks For this video Sir
Thank you very much! Don’t forget to watch the follow up video linked in the description!
I must say that this technique is SUPERIOR! Super impressed with the results! THANK YOU!!!
thanks! dont forget to turn on those notifications for more!!!
Hi Phil: I'm taking a moment to report back the results of my refinish project. Table top was solid oak. Sanded back to raw wood with first 80 and then 100 grit. Final sanding went from 180, 220 and last 320. Mixed floor grade oil based poly with oil based mineral spirits (why was it milky white? Never seen that before!). First medium coat wiped on with lint-free wiping cloth. Waited 3 hours, applied 2nd coat. Waited overnight. Light sanding with 400 grit. Third medium coat applied, waited 3 hours, 4th coat, over night, 400 grit light sanding, 5th coat applied and wiped to thin coat with new applicator cloth, waited 3 hours, 6th coat applied and wiped thin. Tomorrow morning I'll do a light sanding with 1000 grit, rub with brown paper sack and finish with Johnson paste wax. At this moment it looks AMAZING! Would you like a couple of pictures? Thanks for your fabulous contribution!
Id LOVE to see it!!! hit me up on instagram @PMKWoodworking
Milky white is usually indicative of a water based finish. Was it a modified oil base finish?
When u pour one gallon to the other to mix and stir and its correct to pour back and forth five or six times that is called "BOXING THEM TOGETHER " and it makes sure everything is mix properly but great way to show everyone how to mix it like a professional great job bro!!!!!
Love it!!!
“And boom goes the dynamite!” 🤣🙌🏼Yes!! I throughly enjoy your videos, thank you for not being incredibly dull like a majority of the others out there. 🤙🏼 Many Thanks!!
Thank you ! I try to keep it interesting.😝
Used this on a budget HD pine table top and I must say, this method is AWESOME! So much better than brushing it on. I’m glad I found this video. I think I’m a wipe-on convert for life now.
THATS AWESOME!!!! most people who watch my stuff are using HD construction grade pine and stuff like that, good thing is that this method works on literally ANY species!
PMK Woodworking absolutely, I can see why. I hope my comment didn’t come off as if this technique is “budget” or only suitable for cheap DIY projects. On the contrary, I think the fact that it works so well even on crappy wood speaks in its favor. If I had a $1000 dining table and wanted to finish it with poly, I would definitely be using this. I wish we could post photos here, I’d put up a photo of the table, just put the 6th coat on now. I think I may leave it at that, I’m getting impatient to get it out of my garage 😂
ha ha m not at all! Iget a good range of responses, but most seem to be in the "Holy CRAP! I cant believe i ve never seen this awesome technique!" range lol
Hit me up on instagram and show me your final product. and also, DONT RUSH IT! go ahead and do like 4-6 more coats and sand between every 2-3 coats! you'll REALLY like the final result!
This is probably the best finishing video that I have found on youtube. Clear, clean, and effective. Great work. I will definitely be subscribing.
Thank you very much!!! PLease feel free to SHARE it on social media as well, and help me grow!!!
I just tried your method and its genius I will forever be doing this method and the money I'm gonna save on polyurethane Thank you so muchfor sharing
Thanks! Check out this follow up for more info and another mix using booked Lindseed oil.
How To Finish Your Dining Table Professionally Q&A (BONUS NEW 3-2-1 MIX!)
A friend and I are making two country style kitchen tables for our wives and we were exploring how to finish - so glad I've found your channel (now have subscribed!) and your great instructional video on this subject. Thanks so much for sharing - you do great work!!!
Glad it was helpful! im going to be posting some long form and very boring videos on table top joinery and farmhouse table construction soon, so stay tuned!!!
I have subscribed as well, thank u
Thank you, after 3 coats multiple sags, runs and the ugly plastic look. I sanded down my round stair rail and used your method. It came out perfect. Thanks again for your video. It works!
Thank you very much. !
Great video! The only difference between Gloss, Satin, and Matte poly is the amount of "flattening agent" they add (usually zinc oxide).
Plain old polyurethane dries glossy, so that's the cheapest to produce. You can always just use glossy for everything, and then sand it with 600 grit at the end to knock off some shine.
true, I think I covered this in the video, but if not... I usually do the opposite. I like to get Matte or Satin poly, and if I want it more glossy, I simply dont stir it. ^_^
The higher the sheen the greater the durability is. Higher the sheen the more solids left on surface after the vehicle evaporates. Have commonly applied full gloss on early coast and lower gloss on final aplications. Gives surface more durable finish.
Well Blow Me Down what about just knocking down the gloss of the last coat with a really fine grit sandpaper?
you can do that or 000 steel wool
@@mikesnyder815 just my method of madness. What ever meets you disire and services your needs. No two fiddles sound the same....🎻🎻🎻
Wowsers, this could work. After hours and hours of prep and covering with wood paint, I have a polyurethane varnish (Matt) to apply and I stumbled across this video at EXACTLY the right time. Cheers PMK from a real novice in the UK
That’s awesome! If you have any further questions feel free to hit me up on Instagram, and definitely check out this video! How To Finish Your Dining Table Professionally Q&A (BONUS NEW 3-2-1 MIX!)
Thanks for this, two attempts at refinishing with brush sanded back to base wood and tried your technique it’s working great! Wish I could return those $24 brushes
SUPER GLAD I could help! when you get to that final coat, you can also make sure to use a tack cloth to clean off the dust and get an absolutely flawless finish.
PMK Woodworking my final coat looks great. Should I use the tack cloth to try and polish it? I have some little bumps I normally use sandpaper but don’t want to dull final finish
I used a white super fine scotch pad looks great!
perfect! you can also use a brown grocery bag
@@PMKWoodworking I hear tackcloths getting mentioned a lot, I wipe with a dampened rag with white spirit, and that kinda works. Do you buy tackcloths, are they reusable, do they wash through? Sorry for the questions, but I love learning how to do things better.
A friend sent me this link and this meeting saved my bacon... Countless restarts using bushes and t shirts, could never get a nice look.. either streaks, waves,... The paper towel was magic.. perfect applicator... Thank you so much!!!!
That is awesome!
Just finished my dinning table with this method. It turned out amazing! Thanks for the great videos and answering questions about the process!
That is so awesome!!! Shoot me a picture on Instagram, I’d love to see the finished product!
Thank you so much! I sanded and recoated my hutch with a brush and a sponge brush getting nothing but streaks. I was so mad and about to give up. This was what I needed. Now, it’s perfect 😃
That’s so awesome! Just finished can definitely be used in multiple applications, but it’s a lot easier to apply to table tops😅
I’m glad it worked so well for you!
I watched this like 7 times in the last 3 days
Hope it helps!
I’ve watched a pile of videos before finishing the table I built for my sailboat. Using the paper towel was a game changer. I was hesitant and worried about lint. I decided to try it. No need to clean brushes minimal waste and a smooth finish!
So glad it worked for you! That is the exact same reason why I use the Scott blue shop towels because they are lit free and extremely durable. I have had extremely good results of them not leaving bubbles or left behind and they hold up pretty well even on the rough coats before sanding
I just got done finishing a farm house table with this technique. It looks fabulous!! Is there anything you recommend doing after the last coat? Paste wax?
Nothing I recommend, the final coat should look awesome, but you can always feel free to add anything you like. Oil, paste wax, whatever you prefer. I personally do nothing, just make the last coat as perfect as possible, even if I have to wet sand and apply another coat.
Painter here....
If you would take a small screwdriver and punch three holes where your tape is on the inside rim, the product will drain back in. And it still seals with the lid. No mess. Love the information you provided. I going to try this on a old farm table.
Absolutely! I just learned that recently and now every time I do this mixture I drill a hole in the rim using a small drill bit. It really helps cleaning up the mess and prevents the canned from either ceiling itself or allowing air to enter in and dry everything out.
Great video brother. Thank you. One small critique, had to kill the music many times as it was so intrusive.
will do
Brotha nice gentleman way of giving advice I agree also he def is good and explaining and showing 👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
Awesome video. I'm from the UK, I have used the old solvent based poly when younger, and more recently use water based as it is cleaner with regards to brushstrokes, though still has issues. In the UK we are always trailing the US with regard to woodworking equipment, glues and wood finishing products. A new one on me, but I can see that wipe on poly is definitely the way to go for these types of surfaces, I'm so glad I know what wipe on polyurethane actually is now. Better still, I know I can mix it up myself in a similar way to mixing tung oil for its first coats on new wood. Many thanks.
absolutely
Phil; YOU are an amazing man! You posted this video in 2018! I see you continue to respond to viewer comments as new as a week, 3 weeks, 4 weeks ago! Who does that? Absolutely AMAZING! By the way, remember that round oak table and 6 chairs my friend bought at thrift store for $40? (the one I applied 6 or 7 coats using the method you teach in this video).... They sold their home, moved a fair distance away and sold that table & chair set for $650.00! I think they did well! LOL They should send you some sort of commission to you because, without your re-finishing method you taught here, I seriously doubt they could not have done much more than simply making a donation to another thrift shop!
HA HA !!! Thats AWESOME!!! They should venmo me a cut! lol
but actually there are a ton of people who do restorations like that for a living or as a hobby and they make those kind of sales! its insane! I'm so glad to hear they made some serious cash for such a little investment!
When working with new and existing cans of poly, you can take a nail or screwdriver and punch 3-4 holes into the slot where the lid goes. When you use the material or when you put the lid back on, the drippings (more of them) go back into the can then down the side or onto the workbench. I really like the idea of wiping the thinned poly onto the wood. Never thought about doing that. Thank you.
I started doing this a few years ago after making this video and it is AMAZING!, no more wasted/dried poly!!!! thanks!
Very nice! How many coats do you recommend for the "thinned out" polyurethane on a dining table? My table is either maple or mahogany, not exactly sure.
Thanks! I talk about that a little bit more in my follow up video you can check out here:
How To Finish Your Dining Table Professionally Q&A (BONUS NEW 3-2-1 MIX!)
Thanks for this video. I just refinished a white oak table using your methods and it came out FABULOUS! BTW I used 340 grit sand paper in between each coat to smooth out the finish and it was perfect. Thanks again!!
Awesome! I’m glad it worked for you!
Don’t know if I missed it but do you do a light sand between coats and how many coats do you usually use
you did! lol I typically do 2-3 coats, then sand and repeat, do this 3-4 times for 12-16 coats, and finish off with a final sanding and final thin coat of poly.
PMK Woodworking p
@@PMKWoodworking I just bought a new dining table and want to use polyurethane on it. Would I sand it first, and if so what size sandpaper would I use?
probably should give it a good sanding, if your takihng the finish off and restarting, maybe start with 150 ad then 220. if your not taking the finish off start with 220 grit.
I'm a amateur/hobbyists (for a few months now) carpenter and I could never figure out how to get a really professional looking finish on my wood works. Thanks for this video!
Absolutely! Glad it helped you!
Great tips. I’ll be finishing a mid sized farm house table this weekend. Question if I may. My client changed her mind on color from a white wash to now wanting a very light more natural look. My boards are not very consistent so I think I need to use something like a gel stain first then apply my poly. Would you agree or have a better suggestion?
first, make sure your client is PAYING for the change, if you have already done the whitewash. also, avoid gel stain or tinted poly at all costs for this type of finish. (you will easily get streaks and uneven coloring that CANT be fixed) just use traditional stain and before you apply the poly maybe consider this... in the past I have found two stains that are very close to one another ad in the same color family. I applied the darker of the stain to the lighter boards and the lighter looking stain to the darker boards and got a etter blend of colors. also let your client know that a "Natural" look is going to have much more variation than say a whitewash or a dark stained table top. then yes, apply your poly using the methods from this video ^_^
In the process of building tables for our friends coffee shop. Will be using this technique on some old red oak barnwood and well as new construction lumber. Can't wait to see what this method looks like on the final product. Thanks for sharing!
Just be VERY CAREFUL with the barnwood and plan on MANY layers! Red oak has very deep pores and the old barnwood usually has a lot of checks and fissures that are beautiful but THIRSTY! plan on about 3 coats then sand and repeat and ALWAYS use a tack cloth and air sprayer, and probably mineral spirits to clean the surface before the next coat of poly. if not your pores will turn white and get clogged with dust and ruin the finish. luckily this isn't a problem with pine, especially construction grade stuff. just use a heavy duty paper towel for both species and you should be good to go.
Thought you did a good job presenting the material. Good clear audio. I like your method and will certainly give it a try.
Thanks for the positive review!
Me too, thank u
John Brkich I really appreciate the knowledge and ideas you shared on this video. I plan to use your methodology when I do a table next spring.
That’s awesome! Make sure to hit me up on Instagram when it’s done and I’ll feature you!
two quick questions. And I'm sorry if you already answered them. you have a lot of comments to go through :) 1- you mentioned you can do 3 coats in one day. How many coats do you do total? And 2- do you finish the base or legs to the table in the same way or is this just for the table tops? Thanks for the great video!
I typicallly do 12-16 coats. 3 rough, then sand, 3 smoother, then sand, three really thin and smooth, final sand and final coat, sometimes two coats depending on how the final coat finishes out.
I DO finish the apron and legs the same way IF the table is one stain color. BUT I usually do MANY less coats because it is time consuming and lately I have been using the same premixed poly through my HVLP sprayer to apply two or three coats to the base without sanding if possible.
Thanks for watching!
Used your paper towel method and, WOW WOW WOW. Worked like a charm.
That is so awesome to hear! Definitely make sure you were using a high-end paper towel such as the “Scott brand” paper towels I link to in the description. They are much more durable and do not leave behind any lint
Hi would it be ok to use a blue lint free shop towel? Also what sanding grit to use between poly coats? Thank you. I loved this video and learned so much
If the table legs were also made out of wood, would you also apply poly to them? Or would you just stain the legs and thats it?
yes, definitely apply poly to stained legs as well. I'm currently working on a dining table with stained top and stringers, but painted legs. I usually stain and apply two coats of poly to the legs, followed by a smooth sanding and one last coat of poly.
Stain wont seal the wood like paint does it only stains it, so if you left it only stained with no poly then dust will build up on the raw wood then start to discolor the stain.
agreed, sometimes when im feeling lazt i just spray on the poly with HVLP for the legs, makes for a smoother one coat application.
Very nice video sir! Can you tell me how many coat of poly would you recommend for a wooden door? Thanks in advance!
How To Finish Your Dining Table Professionally Q&A (BONUS NEW 3-2-1 MIX!)
Check out this follow up video or answer that in a couple of the questions.
After mixing the poly and mineral spirits, do I have to wait a day before applying to my table or only wait an hour?
10 minutes to an houor
Hi Phil, I tried your technique and it worked wonderfully on my latest desk project. Thank you so much.
I’m so glad to hear that! Hit me up on Instagram and I’ll feature you on my stories!
I love applying polyurethane this way; it sure beats a brush. I have just noticed some fine scratches from sanding. I sand after every 3 coats; this is my second time to sand. (lightly with 400) I didn't notice the scratches before. Your thoughts on this?
You’re probably standing too much or pressing too hard, or… You might actually be catching some debris underneath your sandpaper... typically I apply three or four coats then do a light sanding and when I apply my next one or two coats you can sometimes still see the scratches but usually by the third or fourth coat the scratches go away. If you’re using 400 grit sandpaper try wet sanding with mineral spirits making sure to get rid of all the material and not to trap any debris underneath your sandpaper while sanding. This will give you a smoother surface and less chance of scratching. Then make sure you’re applying enough polyurethane to fill in the holes on your next three coats or when you apply your final coat.
thank you so much....your instructions were so clear anad percise....I am a novice to this...and starting out on a small project. I have watched other videos...but after watching yours...I feel confident I can do this with some sort of success. Thanks again
That’s awesome! Thanks for watching! Definitely read through the comments below as a lot of people have had a lot of questions but I have been able to answer. And make sure to pick up a roll of blue “Scott“ shop towels as they are the best paper towel out there for this process! You can find a link on my Amazon store and in the video description.
Thanks for posting this! I never had any luck applying a smooth finish with a brush. After watching this video, I made a mix of 40% mineral spirits/60% urethane and wiped it on a well-sanded table top using squares cut from an old t-shirt. I applied 6 coats in a row, one every two hours with minimal sanding with 600 grit after the third coat, and buffed the entire thing with #0000 steel wool after the finish had dried. The end result is a super-smooth finish, far superior to anything I've done in the past. There are some long, subtle streaks (they are hard to describe) that run the same direction as I applied the finish (with the grain of the boards). any idea what those might be or what caused them? They are not obvious enough to detract from the quality of the finish.
That is probably very simply the line where you were dragging the rag and it caused the finish to flatten out because of uneven pressure.
I’ve had that happen before as well. Typically I simply apply a slightly thicker coat the next time so they will take a little bit longer to dry and the lines will not be visible when cured
@@PMKWoodworking is the paper towel better than a t-shirt material?
I have this happen when its too dry or hot in regards to heat & humidity in shop especially with water based, the product starts to dry leaving an uneven sheen. iv learned you need to re-wet the hole thing and wipe faster or letting it be sand back down when dry, chasing it will cause blotchy streaks and may need fully stripped with suspended pigment hybrid stains..
Thanks for taking the time with the video. My oak table is sectioned off in squares with the grain in different directions (veneer I believe ) about 2x2 sections. I am concerned with working small sections “in grain” during the polyurethane step. (Had somewhat mixed results staining) seems like switching directions halfway across table could be problematic for the amateur I am. Also the table is huge with 2 leaves, wondering if doing half at a time may be smarter or cause more problems. Your opinions would be appreciated. (Photo available if description is lacking)
so... this may take a little "Artistic" skill, but if you mess up, just do it again! ^_^
Feel free to email me a photo: pmkwoodworking@gmail.com
Personally, I would coat the whole table top using swirls like waxing a car. Then, fold the shop towel into quarters and dip it into the poly. Then without unfolding it, start to use it as a brush. Starting where the pieces meet at the corners start your application by pulling in the direction of the grainright next to the edge of the piece going a different direction, JUST like the breadboards at the end of the video.
Repeat this for each square and any other edges of veneer you have opposing grain direction. also, do the leaves seperate.
Hope that helps, and shoot me an email if you have any more questions or need more clarification.
PMK Woodworking .....good plan...I will report back, temperature dropped so will wait a day or two...did send a photo but Your response indicates you understand my plight ...thx again
aaahhh yes! after looking at the photo I see your problem, I still think what I said above stands. just work quickly so it doesnt start to tack up before you can drag with the wood grain.
@@PMKWoodworking Ha...quick is something I am usually good at :)
ha ha ha
I have watched many videos and think you have the best instructional one out there as to the mix and applying technique
Wow, thank you!
Thankyou for your help today. I tried the thinning idea on some gloss varnish to finish my dining table. The results are stunning. Compared to the original consistency the thinned varnish is so easy to work with. And using a paper towel to apply is genius. No more brush marks. Perfect results every time. Thanks again. 😁😎
That’s awesome!! Hit me up on Instagram to be featured!!!
Timing is Key ! Great technique, and I was planning on doing this tomorrow anyway. Saw other vids where they use a thin initial layer, but I think your method makes more sense. Also, you mentioned using an oil based poly. What differences have you seen between the two?
Glad it was helpful! The water based tends to leave more bubbles. the oils based can eventually "amber" over time
@@PMKWoodworking Is the "amber" an issue if you are covering dark gel stain?
If you take a very small flat screwdriver and punch through the bottom of the rim where the lid sits 4 or 5 times, your poly will drain through the holes back in the can. The can will still seal when replacing the lid. Nice job and well presented.
OMG!!! GREAT IDEA!
Thanks so much for making this video. Sooo good! My question is do I have to buy a Gallon of the polyurethane if I will only be applying it to the top of my kitchen table? I am trying to be as conservative on costs and realistically dont see me finishing anything else for a couple of years therefore no need to have a half gallon in reserve. Thanks again for doing this!
You do NOT have to purchase an entire gallon of both chemicals. In fact, if you can find a smaller container of mineral spirits you can definitely get a smaller container of polyurethane. Just make sure to mix them 50-50 based on volume
Nicely done!
one tidbit, I would not sand 1st coat since it is so thin. It is more like a seal coat so after 2nd coat and each thereafter proceed with sand between coats and obviously don't sand final coat.
Not sure if it just didn’t come through in the video, but check out my follow up video here: How To Finish Your Dining Table Professionally Q&A (BONUS NEW 3-2-1 MIX!)
And that’s when I talk about the sanding technique and I typically apply three coats, then sand, then apply three more coats, then sand, and continue repeating this until I get to the final finish I like.
I remember watching my Dad use this method when I was growing up. He always used a folded paper towel and he learned that from his Dad. I thought it was a standard way to refinish Wood, but after reading all of these comments I guess not many people knew about it. Cool video. I want to refinish my dinning room table and chairs but I’m too chicken shit to do it. Lol
DOOOOOOO IIIIITTTTT!!!!!!!!!
here's a free tip: PAINT the chairs and base! Use a "Self Etching Primer like this one: amzn.to/38HvhjD
and then paint them., Then you only have to sand and refinish the Table top and seats!!! Plus that color scheme is totally on trend right now. it'll save you a TON of frustration, sandpaper, hours, and strippers (the chemical kind) ^_^
PMK Woodworking
Thanks, I appreciate the tips!
Did he dilute the poly too? This is the first time I have seen either of these methods.
+cheryl Barry, yup
Do it
do it
do it
👏👍
So glad I watched this! This weekend I was going to brush the polyurethane and to be honest I was dreading it. Now I’m just going to wipe it on. Thanks
Absolutely! And Definately check out this follow up for more info! How To Finish Your Dining Table Professionally Q&A (BONUS NEW 3-2-1 MIX!)
I'm not a chemical engineer but my guess is if you thin your polyurethane you'll need more coats. Good brush and steel wool no strokes
almost... if you actually WATCH the video, it can be applied with a good paper towel to avoid the brush strokes, and YES you can and SHOULD put more coats on. multiple thinner coats provides much more strength and much faster cure times!
Poke small holes (using a nail or awl) in the slot that the lid fits into. This allows the material to drip back into the can without making a mess.
I just started doing this and it is a GAME changer!
I ran an ink lab for about 15 years. An old guy taught me that. Pass it on to your subscribers. Glad to have helped a little bit
Mixing by pouring one can into the other, over and over again...it was called 'boxing' by house painters back in the day!
Good to know! I'll have to remember that! thanks for watching!
ha ha ha
Ditto, Cheryl Barry! Amazing. Thank you, PMK. I’m just off to resend my table top. Brush strokes ugh!
Good luck!!!
To sum it up, 50/50 mix poly/mineral spirits, apply with rag with the grain, which he prefers over the look of brush on. Lots of filler info for those with the time to watch. Thanks for posting.
Thanks for watcing, Though.
Awesome video! Thank you! What do you do if the table does not have bread boards?
Good question! same technique except that you start your stroke on the edge and pull the paper towel up and over the die to the opposite end and run right off the edge, after youve donne all the faces, simply wipe the excess off of the end grain and youre done.
Nice video! This was super informative. Also, I liked the music... just play what you want!
Thanks, I try to make the music cohesive, but I really enjoy mixing it up.
Thank you- am using this for my 10' dining table restoration. Just one Q: what is the sanding technique in between poly-mix coats? What grit level, etc? Thank you
usually 220
Please turn down the background music
Nope
So thankful for this! Haven’t started my table yet as I’m very intimidated, BUT I’m excited to get it done. For sure going to do this method once I’m done
That sounds awesome! Hit me up on Instagram when you get it done so I can see the finished result!
@@PMKWoodworking I will! Just did my cuts today, and am planning to assemble tomorrow. Borrowing my uncles clamps to do my table top glue up. Crossing my fingers for success
Hey Man, just wanted to comment on your latest comment lol.. on another comment down the comment section more I saw you wrote every 2 poly coats (or was it between each coat lol) but that you use your orbital sander on the LOWEST SPEED/POWER, do you use 320 grit and go up or do you do as I heard you say in this video and use only 400 in between each coat… My orbital sander has one speed HIGH lol is that too much force? Also is it better to sand between coats by hand or orbital sander? Thanks man I made my first wood butcher block breakfast table with 2x4 prime pine and stained it (some pieces are only sanded/Unstained) It’s small 31”by 26”. Excited to use your process to finish it 🙏🏼
Typically I do two or three coats in between sanding. And I go up in grit usually starting with 220 for my first sanding, 220 wet for my second sanding, 400 wet for my third sanding I’m at leaves me with about 12 coats including my final coat.
If your orbital sander does not have multiple speeds it is definitely too fast and will burn the polyurethane causing it to melt and make a little yellow pills all over and leave swirls ruining your finish. I would highly suggest you get the wood as smooth as possible before applying finish, then apply three coats, sand with 220, apply three more coats of sand with 220 again, apply three MORE coats and it should feel pretty smooth already, if it does you can go ahead and wet sand with mineral spirits and 400 grit and start applying your final coats.
Clear, concise, useful information.
Thank you very much!
This same method will work for the helmsman spar urethane? I have to protect a table for outdoor.
This tutorial was the best!
Unfortunately no, spar can’t be thinned… for outdoor applications save yourself the heartache and get Total Boat Halcyon. amzn.to/2Yt6YWG
This is what I use on my kayak and it is awesome!!!
Great video! I have a table that someone painted but the original finish was washed oak (I think.) I have other tables made by the same manufacturer, Thomasville. How would I figure out what type of matte finish is on them so I can match the now stripped table? Thanks so much for your help.
You would probably have to get in touch with the manufacturer to find out, but they usually pretty stingy about that information… If the table is already stripped I would say it wouldn’t really matter, just try to find a finish that is a similar level of Matt versus satin versus glossy and reapply.
PMK Woodworking thanks- I plan to take a drawer from another of the same collection to Lowe’s and see if I can match it.
First off thank you very helpful. A few questions. After that first pass with the wet cloth you where originally using. I think you used that same cloth to do the final wipe to even things out to level it per-say. Correct? And how long did you wait to do that second wipe? Thanks again your awesome
Great questions! I think I covered this a little bit in my follow up video with a link to a description.
I typically DO use the same paper towel multiple times assuming it is not falling apart or has not got dirt in it or debris or anything else that would ruin the finish.
But don’t feel like you need to save the world by saving and reusing paper towels, simply use it for one or two applications then throw it away. I’ve also had applications where I’ve use three or four paper towels because one will rip or I will drop it on the floor or something stupid will happen which makes me have to use an all new paper towel. I DO recommend when you start using a new towel you want to fully submerge it and squeeze out all the air bubbles a few times which will allow The polyurethane to fully penetrate the towel which will help reduce air bubbles and streaking later
Depending on how accurate your mix is, relative humidity in your shop and in your area, and the temperature during drying, plus the relative humidity of the wood itself, you will end up with a dry time typically between 8 to 24 hours. If I’m in a hurry I will apply multiple thin coats in one day typically first thing in the morning, late afternoon, and possibly a third coat before closing the shop. However, you have to make sure you are PASSED the tacky stage even if you are not hard enough to sand. Let it sit at least overnight if not 24 hours before sanding then you can apply between 1 to 3 coats per day depending on how quickly it flashes out of the “tacky” stage.
First couple of coats should be gloss with the finish coat satin. Satin is a much softer finish. To get rid of the finish down in the groove put nail holes in the bottom of the groove and it will drain back into the can. Take a look at the Sam Maloof finish.
GOOD ADVICE' ILL DEFINATELY LOOK INTO THAT!
Thank you so much for this video. I used this method but there were streaks after my first coat dried. The whole surface was wet when I applied it, but when it dried, some parts were dull like they had no finish on, and some parts were satin looking, making the whole thing very streaky. Not sure what went wrong?
Give it another coat or two and see if this continues to happen.
You may have slightly too much mineral spirits in your mixture which is perfectly fine, simply mix and stir your polyurethane but before the next application let it sit with the lid off for about 10 or 15 minutes before applying your polyurethane.
Also, consider applying the coatjust a little bit thicker but having a slightly more wet paper towel.
That’s typically how I solve the problem with streaking by allowing some of the solvent to evaporate off and applying a thicker coat making sure to wet the entire surface.
This video is super helpful! I’m using a water based varnish that I found instead, on a table with grains going a bunch of different ways. (Essentially 4 squares leading diagonally towards the center of the table, another another edge piece on the side) How do you recommend finishing that? Can I go one direction over all of it or should I tape off the different areas and go in the direction of the grain? Thanks!
Here’s how you do it:
When you are over your paper towel you will need to edges that are kind of loose and two edges that are rounded over nicely. Did you essentially use smooth rounded over edge of the paper towel as a “chip brush“ you can run the polyurethane in the direction of the green for each individual piece without overlapping onto the other piece. It takes a little bit of an extra touch and a steady hand but it is doable! I’ve done it a few times. Take a look at the part in the video where I finish the “breadboard ends““ it is essentially the same technique, except that you will be starting your stroke on or near the edge of another piece of wood going in a different direction. Do you have to do the same thing for a herringbone pattern table. Essentially dragging the paper towel from the corner of each board all the way down to the corner of the next board for every single board going each different direction..
I DO recommend that you start by getting the entire people wet by making big giant squirrels with a wet towel soak in the mixture. Then gently ring out in the towel and start dragging your pattern with the grain of each board. (Or each section of boards.)
So , after you’ve done a fist coat of clear , an after it drys the wood has dry spots , not slick spots on it .. Do u just sand an reclear ? I’m doing a farmhouse table an have ran into this with the finish
Apply 3 coats of clear..
I sometimes get spots like that when the wood is very fresh and I don’t use conditioner. It will soak in pretty easily on the first coat or two but by the time I put the third coat on it sitting on the surface a lot better. Typically that point I sand it and apply three more coats. Give that a shot and let me know how it turns out
Great video. I just sanded down and stained my old walnut dining room table. But I am having a hard time figuring out the finish because it is inlaid squares of wood, so every 8" the woodgrain turns in the other direction. Would a wipe on polyurethane be my best bet? I'm concerned about brushstrokes going against the grain on every other inlay. Thanks for your input.
It would be, however, you will still have to follow the wood grain with your paper towel. The advantage is that you can fold your paper towel into a perfect square and use it to get into the corner and then drag along the wood grain. I have to do this on my herringbone pattern tables and Barn Door’s and you wind up wiping EVERY SINGLE BOARD along the wood grain.!
Simply apply a coat of polyurethane over the ENTIRE table using a swirling motion to make sure you get it into every bit, then go back and pull the polyurethane across each individual board making sure to try to match the corners perfectly with the corner of your paper towel and follow along the wood grain. Good luck!
You are a patient man, enthusiastic instructor, articulate well and are unbelievably gracious to every person that leaves a comment (even those who deserve a simple hand gesture - you are very professional). I had a friend purchase from a Salvation Army store a round solid oak dining table (so heavy!) with 6 chairs - $40! A LOT of visible "hard" use on the table top. Sanding started with 80 grit, then 120 all by hand taking it to bare wood. Next, 180 then 220 with random orbital sander. No stain, but using your method here on the clean, dust free table top should, IMHO, create a beautiful solid (perhaps family heirloom quality) dining table... now, about those 6 chairs... spindles, round, feature rich, ugh! All by hand? (Sanding)?? Any suggestions on an easier way to get to bare wood on those chairs? Use you process on chairs as well? Thanks so much!
chairs SUCK!!! lol it can add up. but I would get a spray version of a heavy duty stripper. especially the foaming kind, sticks to all surfaces and goes to work. clean it off, lightly hand sad once dry, then stain like normal and finish using this method. its time consuming, but it works well.
@@PMKWoodworking Thanks so much for your response... good things never come easy, right? Out to buy a can of foam stripper (I must remember not to get any on me!) LOL
Thank you!. Will the same technique work for chairs and other carved wooden furniture?... I have a rococo style table and I wanted to use this technique...
Yes, it will… It also makes a lot easier to run it through an HVLP sprayer which is what I would choose to do for chairs and carved furniture, personally.
that's exactly like I do it it does look great everytime, thanks
Absolutely! It’s definitely one of the best techniques I’ve ever found!
interesting technique. A question: Is there anything you do after the last finish is applied... like a lite sand and/or a wax?
Check out this follow up How To Finish Your Dining Table Professionally Q&A (BONUS NEW 3-2-1 MIX!)
Thank you SO much for this video! I am new to wood working and your information is very helpful! I only wish I had found this sooner so my first few attempts would have turned out better!
Glad you found me! Let me know if there’s anything in particular you’d like to see.
This is sooo super helpful. I’m refinishing a table and chair set for my son (5 coats of paint removed-eye roll) and I’ve watched this video several times. I’ve purchased the poly and mineral spirits and I’m going to try your technique after I apply my stain. Fingers crossed 🤞. Thank you!!
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Help! I don't know much but have a big project! Table, Buffett and cabinet to paint. I'm painting, staining and applying a top coat. I was going to glaze/antique the paint with the stain. Do I need to use oil bases paint, oil based stain and the poly for the top coat? Is poly oil based? Sorry I know nothing and I'm terrifyied! Love e this video!! I've watched TONS. Yours is the BEST!!
Hey, thanks! My first recommendation would be to look into a product called “antiquing glaze“. It is an amazing water-based product that you apply over paint and it gets into all the cracks and crevices and stains the paint making it look dirty and old without making it look like it was just applied with a brush. I typically select the “Jaffa Brown“ version at my local big box home store and brush it on with a synthetic hair brush made for water base paint. Once applied to the paint let it set just long enough to get it brushed into the main areas that you want to look antiqued then start wiping it away with fresh clean paper towels. Once you have a way most of the remaining glaze it will leave some streak marks and darken up the paint color to make it appear aged. You can also leave some of the glaze in the crevices And cracks of the piece which will give it even more character. Then, simply follow up with a water-based polyurethane topcoat. I would recommend either brushing it on and doing multiple layers sanding in between, or cut it 30% with water and apply multiple layers with a paper towel sanding every third coat. Keep going until the topcoat finish you want to satisfactory.
Good luck! And hit me up on Instagram if you have any other questions, I’ll be happy to answer them and check out some of your photos.
great video, thank you! helpful and very clear. what do you think about using tung oil or teak oil before applying poly in this way? will the oil’s color/finish degrade over time, or will the poly seal it in. total noob here, working on my first reclaimed wood table.
Not entirely sure. I believe you CAN apply it directly over the oil.
I am so happy I found your video. I just finished staining a pine vanity my husband built for me and I'm scared to apply varnish and ruin it. Your video has given me some confidence. I gather from your answers to other comments to apply three coats and then sand. How many coats total do you recommend for top of the vanity? It will have a vessel sink on top. Thank you!
If there’s going to be any sort of water exposure I would make sure to definitely pre-cut the hole for the sink so that you can fill in the end grain with polyurethane. I would recommend probably 16 to 24 coats sanding every third or fourth coat. The more layers you have the more resistant it will be too water. Also, I would consider only doing one or two coats per day. Especially if there’s high humidity in your area I would apply one coat in the morning and one coat in the evening about 12 hours apart after your fourth coat wait an additional 12 hours and give it a light sanding before starting with your next, first coat… Hope that makes sense.
The additional cure time will help prevent any micro moisture from getting trapped between the layers which will help provide for the hardest possible finish and prevent any chance of moisture ruining the finish. Obviously, with polyurethane you never want water to “sit“ on the surface… But a few drops here and there from using the sink regularly that are simply wiped up with a cloth will do just fine.
@@PMKWoodworking Thank you for the helpful advice!! Holes have been cut. I live in Texas and is summer, do I need to say more...
Hi Phil, I just wanted to let you know I'm up to my 14 coat of poly on the vanity and it is looking great. I followed your advice, doing two coats each day (am/pm) and then I sand lightly. I know you suggested sanding every 4th coat, but sanding every morning helps me to remember to do it...old brain..lol I do have a question: after the last coat, do you buff or polish? Thanks again. I will send you a pic when is all done.
No, you don’t need to do anything after the final coat. Typically I do a nice wet sand with mineral spirits before applying my final coat, if I’m not happy with it I typically just apply another final coat on top of it until I’m happy! LOL
I break it down a little bit in my follow up video here: th-cam.com/video/J_6g4oGEJ5s/w-d-xo.html
I did everything you said to do and my oak table look beautiful . I have already given it 4 coats .but how many more coats do I need to give it . Thank you for all the information .Margie
Good news! You only need to give it as many coats as YOU want to. If it looks great as is then you are done!
Wow this is a great tutorial, now I feel ready to redone my farmhouse table, I just got it, not what I supposed to get, but stain color is not what I wanted so I will get it done myself, so thanks a lot for this great tutorial. Is just awesome 👌
Awesome! Good luck on your project
Very interesting and helpful video. I have an island countertop that I built from reclaimed wood (late 1800's dug fir). I have covered it with epoxy to fill all the voids (my wife wanted a very smooth surface that so food and liquids wouldn't get trapped) but we want a matte or satin finish so I was going to apply polyurethane. I have put on a couple coats with roller (un-thinned) and it has more texture than I usually get from the product. Wondering if your technique would work over the epoxy and poly I have currently applied?
Yes it would. I highly suggest sanding BACK down all the way to the epoxy coating, then smooth sand and apply poly using this method. Add 3-4 coats and sand, repeat a few times to build up a good solid finish, then final sand and final coat.
I'm refinishing a table with two leaves that fit between the main part of the table and the breadboards at either end. Would you finish it with the breadboards closed or open? If open, how do you move up the table: go all the way off the end and then do the next row or do you slide up on the edge of the table? (In other words, if the table doesn't have breadboards, how do you move up to the next row?) Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
So, yes, I would finish them seperately. and yes' if you do it carefully you can stroke all the way OFF the edge and start again a fes inches down. just be careful to start RIGHT ON THE EDGE and pull PAST the opposite edge. it takes a little practice, but it works