Great techniques to know! I love your ribber videos especially, as I have just gotten my SK-280 ribber, which I've been really struggling with, and your tips are so helpful!
Thank you so much! I've just unboxed my Silver Reed SK280 and- as you described- was struggling with getting an even tension by manually e-wrapping. Your technique is far easier.
Thank you so much for taking the time to post this. You truly are a very talented lady and so generous sharing with us. Thank you again and wishing you a very happy Christmas 😍😍
I adore this carriage e-wrap cast on. Thank you for sharing this very clear video. Assuming we work only here with our project yarn not our scrap yarn?
I dont understand how the scrap works. I used it but then i had scrap at the end of the jumper and nobody shows what to do to get rid of the scrap!! Also it rips if i put a weight on it it ravels upwards in ladders. I have a machine called a bush ideal which doesnt use weights it has a skate thats supposed to push the stitches down but it doesnt work very well. And i cant be arsed doing the e shape thing and then laying the yarn over the latches as i have only managed that once although it was very good and locked. But the scrap yarn i cant comprehend when the stiches start going well and i change to my working yarn how to i get rid of the crap at the bottom without the first line of dtickes then being open? How do i close the bottom edge? Thanks if either of can help. @sallybutcherskalamundakrafts
Thank you for the lesson Sally. I have been machine knitting since 1960 and I have never seen that technique with the slip setting. I don't think I would use the cast on (I like crochet cast on) but the cast off looks good and genuinely easier than hand cast off.
Hi Sally, I am enjoying your videos and your easy to follow instructions. Unfortunately I am having a problem using the carriage cast on using my Silver Reed. It starts off great and then I notice that one or two of the knitted stitches have come off the needle! I have tried to so it several times now (carriage cast off is great though) and it is never the same needle. I do find it fiddly doing it manually and would love to be able to d9 this properly. Any suggestions please. Many thanks.
Hi, it may be that your overhead tension/stitch size are a bit loose, allowing the stitches to "bounce off". Or the yarn might be quite springy, waxing it might help. Otherwise you could try holding on a ravel cord between the stitches and the sinker posts to keep them in place. Clip it together with a clothes peg or clip to hold it down. That's all I can suggest!
Hi Sally. I've just started knitting and follow my manual for guidance. The casting on I've been shown is by laying the yarn across needles in d position and pulling the carriage across with the weave knob on. Is there a reason why this wouldn't be as good as the method you show? I will ofcourse be by trying it out though. So much to learn!
Hi Nana, the method you describe is the weaving cast on, which is not a fully finished edge. The method I describe using the carriage, is a form of e-wrap cast on, which gives a finished edge. They both have their uses and advantages, it depends what you are making. There is no point spending time doing a closed, finished edge on something that is temporary, or practice, for example. Yes, lots to learn!
@@sallybutcherskalamundakrafts well I didn't know that thankyou for the info. Idve been happily knitting away at my designer jumpers with an inferior finish!
Ok thats just reducing a stitch isnt it? My carriage doesnt have slip but it has know up and know down...know down is for knit and nob up is for doing cast on where it takes the é cast on with a thread layed over the hooks through which maybe is slip?
Hello Sally please please please will you tell me why the yarn gets tangled in brushes. I have got plastic but brushes protrude slightly. I am a new machine knitter and have had machine for a few weeks. Thank you for any help you give
Honestly? it’s a beginner thing and will go away as you improve. Your overhead tension could be slightly off so that the yarn slackens off then catches, your yarn could be a bit fluffy, the brushes could have a wonky bristle or two. Try to get into the habit of holding the yarn above the carriage just as you start to knit the row, to stop it looping. You can also use the yarn separators (Silver Reed only) which will keep the yarn travelling through the arm instead of underneath it.
I am thinking of getting a knitting machine. Looking at silver reed. Is there any benefit to the 820 over the 250 please. Is it easy to knit a pattern as all I have seen is swatch knitting in demos. For instance doing armhole shaping automatically.?
There is no advantage of one machine over another when it comes to basic knitting techniques. No domestic machine can do automatic armhole shaping, increasing, decreasing, casting on or off - this is always manual. The differences are whether the machine can knit stitch patterns such as fairisle, lace and tuck automatically and whether it knits those by means of a punchcard system or electronics from a computer. The cheapest, basic machines have no automatic patterning systems and any fancy stitches are done by hand manipulation. They usually don’t even have ribbers. The punchcard patterning machines are very versatile but cost more, but they are easier to learn than the computer driven models. Decide which thickness of yarn you are most likely to use, as no machine will cover them all. I have four gauges of machine for this reason! And decide your budget.
Hello I bought a second hand sk280 machine with SRP60n. The set is already attached. I don't understand how to detach or work with the main machine to simply train in jersey before starting the dimensions with the SRP60n. Have you ever made this video. I see that you have a cover on the SRP60N but I don't have one on my machine. How can I buy one?
Underneath the ribber on both sides are levers that drop it down from the main bed. You do not have to remove it to knit stocking stitch. I have videos on TH-cam on knitting rib, and transferring to the main bed. The ribber covers are no longer made, so you’d have to search for a second hand pair. In the meantime, use a pillowcase and pegs to hold it in place.
@@sallybutcherskalamundakrafts thank you very much for your your prompt response and your help. I succeeded in dropping down the ribber😃. Thank for letting me know for covers.
Generally, on my standard gauge machine, I use a U.K. 4 ply yarn, which is quite fine - on hand knitting needles it’s 3.25mm. I sometimes use a finer 3 ply, but DK is too thick for it.
Hi Sally, I am presently casting off 200 stitches on my 360 and this works so well. Thank you soooo much for sharing it.
Great techniques to know! I love your ribber videos especially, as I have just gotten my SK-280 ribber, which I've been really struggling with, and your tips are so helpful!
Thank you! This is brilliant, I have been knitting on Silver Reed for over 20 years and did not know about this! I must try it for my next project.
Very useful Sally. Thank you
Great video! I love the trick with the ravel cord. Thanks!
Thank you!
Thank you so much!
I've just unboxed my Silver Reed SK280 and- as you described- was struggling with getting an even tension by manually e-wrapping. Your technique is far easier.
Thanks for these great tips !! Can't wait to try them !!
Thank you so much for taking the time to post this. You truly are a very talented lady and so generous sharing with us. Thank you again and wishing you a very happy Christmas 😍😍
Thank you for this! It even works on my LK 150.
Thanks for the video. Have tried it on my SK 860, an electronic, and it functions.
I adore this carriage e-wrap cast on. Thank you for sharing this very clear video. Assuming we work only here with our project yarn not our scrap yarn?
Yes, I would say it’s main yarn only. A closed cast on is just a waste of time in waste yarn!
I dont understand how the scrap works. I used it but then i had scrap at the end of the jumper and nobody shows what to do to get rid of the scrap!! Also it rips if i put a weight on it it ravels upwards in ladders. I have a machine called a bush ideal which doesnt use weights it has a skate thats supposed to push the stitches down but it doesnt work very well. And i cant be arsed doing the e shape thing and then laying the yarn over the latches as i have only managed that once although it was very good and locked. But the scrap yarn i cant comprehend when the stiches start going well and i change to my working yarn how to i get rid of the crap at the bottom without the first line of dtickes then being open? How do i close the bottom edge? Thanks if either of can help. @sallybutcherskalamundakrafts
Thank you for the lesson Sally. I have been machine knitting since 1960 and I have never seen that technique with the slip setting. I don't think I would use the cast on (I like crochet cast on) but the cast off looks good and genuinely easier than hand cast off.
Thank you Gail, it's something I only found out about a few years ago, I never came across it back in the 1980's when I learned to machine knit
Very helpful! Thank you Sally!
Hi Sally, I am enjoying your videos and your easy to follow instructions. Unfortunately I am having a problem using the carriage cast on using my Silver Reed. It starts off great and then I notice that one or two of the knitted stitches have come off the needle! I have tried to so it several times now (carriage cast off is great though) and it is never the same needle. I do find it fiddly doing it manually and would love to be able to d9 this properly. Any suggestions please. Many thanks.
Hi, it may be that your overhead tension/stitch size are a bit loose, allowing the stitches to "bounce off". Or the yarn might be quite springy, waxing it might help. Otherwise you could try holding on a ravel cord between the stitches and the sinker posts to keep them in place. Clip it together with a clothes peg or clip to hold it down. That's all I can suggest!
Sally do you have a video for doing fair isle on the 360 singer machine ?
Yes, I have done one on punchcard knitting, tuck and Fairisle.
Thank you very much for your explanation.
Can you start like this on a Silver Reed 840?
No, I don’t think you can, because the cam lever on the electronic overrides the side levers, which is a right pain the ****!!
@@sallybutcherskalamundakrafts
Thanks for your explanation.❣️
Hi Sally. I've just started knitting and follow my manual for guidance. The casting on I've been shown is by laying the yarn across needles in d position and pulling the carriage across with the weave knob on. Is there a reason why this wouldn't be as good as the method you show? I will ofcourse be by trying it out though. So much to learn!
Hi Nana, the method you describe is the weaving cast on, which is not a fully finished edge. The method I describe using the carriage, is a form of e-wrap cast on, which gives a finished edge. They both have their uses and advantages, it depends what you are making. There is no point spending time doing a closed, finished edge on something that is temporary, or practice, for example. Yes, lots to learn!
@@sallybutcherskalamundakrafts well I didn't know that thankyou for the info. Idve been happily knitting away at my designer jumpers with an inferior finish!
How do you not get the rest of the needles on the row knitted up when doing this slip stitch cast off? My sk155 just knits across the row
When the carriage is set to slip it should only work the stitch in D position? Check your side levers are forwards on the circle.
@@sallybutcherskalamundakrafts thanks for bringing this to my attention Sally! Your demonstrations are very helpful and inspiring for me
Ok thats just reducing a stitch isnt it? My carriage doesnt have slip but it has know up and know down...know down is for knit and nob up is for doing cast on where it takes the é cast on with a thread layed over the hooks through which maybe is slip?
Hello Sally please please please will you tell me why the yarn gets tangled in brushes. I have got plastic but brushes protrude slightly. I am a new machine knitter and have had machine for a few weeks. Thank you for any help you give
Honestly? it’s a beginner thing and will go away as you improve. Your overhead tension could be slightly off so that the yarn slackens off then catches, your yarn could be a bit fluffy, the brushes could have a wonky bristle or two.
Try to get into the habit of holding the yarn above the carriage just as you start to knit the row, to stop it looping.
You can also use the yarn separators (Silver Reed only) which will keep the yarn travelling through the arm instead of underneath it.
I am thinking of getting a knitting machine. Looking at silver reed. Is there any benefit to the 820 over the 250 please. Is it easy to knit a pattern as all I have seen is swatch knitting in demos. For instance doing armhole shaping automatically.?
There is no advantage of one machine over another when it comes to basic knitting techniques. No domestic machine can do automatic armhole shaping, increasing, decreasing, casting on or off - this is always manual.
The differences are whether the machine can knit stitch patterns such as fairisle, lace and tuck automatically and whether it knits those by means of a punchcard system or electronics from a computer. The cheapest, basic machines have no automatic patterning systems and any fancy stitches are done by hand manipulation. They usually don’t even have ribbers. The punchcard patterning machines are very versatile but cost more, but they are easier to learn than the computer driven models.
Decide which thickness of yarn you are most likely to use, as no machine will cover them all. I have four gauges of machine for this reason! And decide your budget.
Can you please explain how the tension works?
Hello I bought a second hand sk280 machine with SRP60n. The set is already attached. I don't understand how to detach or work with the main machine to simply train in jersey before starting the dimensions with the SRP60n. Have you ever made this video. I see that you have a cover on the SRP60N but I don't have one on my machine. How can I buy one?
Underneath the ribber on both sides are levers that drop it down from the main bed. You do not have to remove it to knit stocking stitch. I have videos on TH-cam on knitting rib, and transferring to the main bed. The ribber covers are no longer made, so you’d have to search for a second hand pair. In the meantime, use a pillowcase and pegs to hold it in place.
@@sallybutcherskalamundakrafts thank you very much for your your prompt response and your help. I succeeded in dropping down the ribber😃. Thank for letting me know for covers.
That’s brilliant thank you !!
Help my carriage stark the needles are not moving
What is price this machine please 🙏
It is not for sale.
Can I buy the video
@@patparker8166 sorry, no, I don’t sell the videos, as they are all freely available
THANK YOU!
Hi. Which size of yarn do you use?
Generally, on my standard gauge machine, I use a U.K. 4 ply yarn, which is quite fine - on hand knitting needles it’s 3.25mm. I sometimes use a finer 3 ply, but DK is too thick for it.
Thanks
Thank you Sally my
Just tried this (several times) on Silver Reed 840 and I end up with a triangle because all of the stitches knit each time.?..
Hi Valerie, one of the disadvantages of the electronic - you don’t have control of the side levers! The machine thinks it can think for you!
@@sallybutcherskalamundakrafts does this mean that I can’t use this method. I’ve learned so much from your videos, thank you.
@@valerieroscamp5891 what do the side levers do when you move the cam to the slip setting?
@@sallybutcherskalamundakrafts they go back.
@@valerieroscamp5891 then this method won’t work on the electronic, as the side levers need to be forward. Sorry.
I mean thats way longer than latchooking them because youre doing the same one off and also dragging the carriage back and forth.
@@serendipidus8482 I did say it’s not quick! But it’s another option.
@@sallybutcherskalamundakrafts you actually said it doesn't take any longer than latchooking. That's why I commented that it is longer.
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