Machine Knitting - Pattern Knitting on Silver Reed punchcard models
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 ก.ย. 2024
- This video explains how to use the punchcards to perform stitch pattern knitting. It is filmed on a standard gauge machine, but the basic principles will apply equally to the 12 stitch SK155 chunky model, and also the 30 stitch fine gauge machines.
Fairisle and Tuck stitches are demonstrated, but the same method will apply to other forms of pattern knitting such as slip stitch and punch lace.
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Thankyou SO much for your videos. I just got a sk228 and am a visual learner. I truly appreciate these wonderful videos ❤️
Your videos are invaluable for me! Can't thank you enough!
Amazing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I just bought a Singer 260k and this tutorial was perfect!!!!! I’m going to check out all your other videos! ❤
Excellent videos! Thank you so much for taking the time to share your knowledge. You've inspired me to pull out my SK580 and all of the accessories (well, not the AG50 Electronic Instarsia Carriage, as that hadn't been released when I bought my set up in 1988).
It took me a bit to realize that you're using a tilt-front table to hold your machine, as well as the great ribber bed covers.
Cheers!
Thank you Leon, glad you like them and that I have inspired you to get out your machine. Yes, the tilt front table is very useful for filming.
Hi Sally, thank you for posting your videos. The tutorials are incredibly useful. But I just wish you spoke a bit louder, as I have trouble hearing your voice, even when my computer volume is on max.
Can you try using headphones?
Sally thank you for the videos that you make so we can learn how to use the machine. One request, can you make a video how to make a Garment, like a sweater for example
And thank you again!!! ❤❤
Hi, I already have lots of videos on how to knit complete garments on Facebook. This is because I can include documents with notes and the patterns, as well as videos, which I can’t do on TH-cam. If you ask to join the Machine Knitting Beginners and Returners Circle, all of my patterns are in the Guides. They are called KALs = knitalongs. There are also other easy patterns from other contributors in there.
@@sallybutcherskalamundakrafts
Thanks
Nice sharing
You such a saver 😊 thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thank You
Hi Sally, thanks for your videos, I just have a question, I have made my own punchcard design and I’m using 4-ply pure wool but the edges of the design are turning out with ladders and small holes, do you have any recommendations on how I could solve this… I have tried a few different tensions but they don’t make much difference.
Ladders and holes often occur if you have long floats and straight vertical lines. The art of a good design is to include “infill” to minimise floats, and perspective or positioning to avoid long vertical lines. If you have repeating motifs, think about reversing them on the second row, and/or shunting the position half a block left or right so that they intersperse the row below. Look at lots of pattern books to see what I mean. Iris Bishop is an expert in this art!
Thanks so much!
THANK YOU!!!! With your Tuck Card 3 example on the Singer machine regular carriage you don't need to use Edge Pins or have setup the needles in any sort of orientation prior to starting tuck? With Card 2 new friends had advised the need to transfer stitches to neighbors prior to doing the first actual pattern row (ensuring both outside needles are needles holding two stitches)
For most tuck cards you don’t need any kind of prior set up (exception is tuck lace). The edge pins are only for use with the lace carriage. I recommend putting 1 or 2 edge needles on both sides, every row out to D position. This stops them tucking, but you have to do this manually on the Silver Reed machines. The reason I think you were recommended to transfer stitches when starting to use Card 2, is because this card is not normally used for tuck, as it’s a 2x2 pattern, ie two neighbouring needles are tucking. And this could cause problems at the dges. I know you can - with care - work tuck with Card 2, but it’s not usual.
Hi Sally, is there a fast way to transfer punchcard patterns to electronic digital patterns? Love your videos all very helpfull to a new knitter like me. ❤
You can do it if you have the DAK program and a scanner. You can import the punchcard image and digitise it. Whether there is another way, I don’t know.
Much appreciate it many thanks
I have a 360 Singer. I have tried knitting #4 worsted yarn on every second needle which works beautifully. I was wondering if punch card patterns will turn out when using every second needle. Have you tried doing that?
No I haven’t tried it, but using card designs intended for the 12 stitch repeat 155 machine will work on an alternate needle arrangement.
I have a drawing I f a boat. Is it possible to punch a card for this boat? I'm not sure how to do it. Also I need to know how to change the size of the boat. I have a sk860
Your SK860 is an electronic machine that doesn’t use punchcards. Have you got an EC1 Mylar sheet reader? Or do you use DAK software?
What type of yarn are you using? And where can I buy it! Thanks
Will a sk280 caridge work on a model 360/260 beds
Yes it will.
i looked forward to watching your video on punchcards unfortunately I could not hear what you were saying you came across mumbling which from comments from others it does not happen can you speak up louder or increase the volume of your microphone I do want to learn the use of punchcards I am also a beginner
Unfortunately, I cannot alter the videos afterwards. On some of my earlier ones, I didn’t have a microphone. You might be able to hear it better with headphones.
Hi Sally Thankyou for the videos. When you say information or spread sheets are in the files where should I be looking?
They are in the files or guides of the Machine Knitting Beginners and Returners Circle group on Facebook. These videos are cross posted, hence the references.
Hello, please teach the texture of a single flower, too. Thank you.😘😘🙏🌹
Please look for my video on single motif knitting.
Hi Sally wonder if you can help, I have a Empisal knitmaster 323 but when I follow your instruction for single yarn pattern I keep getting these results, see below, any ideas as to what's wrong please, tried twenty times with the same result,
Sorry, can’t see any pictures. Can you contact me via Facebook? Kalamunda Krafts - follow and message.
My Toyota (which uses similar selection as Brother) has failed me, I once tried a KM machine but got really confused with the diagrams and all the levers on the carriages and the sinker plate (it was a 700). I did find the Knitmaster HK160 much easier to use though and the patterning much smoother - and am toying with either returning to Brother or trying Knitmaster again. What is is you prefer about these machines rather than the Brother/Toyota ones?
Hi Jason, I suppose I prefer the Knitmaster machines overall because I started machine knitting on them, so I’m used to them! Over the years I’ve just acquired a deeper knowledge of how the machine works, so those levers aren’t so daunting and confusing. There is actually a lot of logic behind it all! I also think the engineering on the drum patterning method is more robust, but that’s my opinion. Once you’ve got your head round how the operating tables work, it is very easy to follow new stitch patterns, ribbing, the colour changer and so forth. I found the brother instruction books muddled and confusing. People moan that the Knitmasters haven’t got a garter carriage. So what! There are 1000s of things it can do, I’d rather focus on that, instead of the one thing it can’t do! I’d trade that any day for the LC2 lace carriage and the weaving arm. The Knitmaster carriages are smoother, and it’s not so noisy. But at the end of the day, it’s like asking someone why they prefer a Merc to a BMW.
@@sallybutcherskalamundakrafts Thanks for your reply that’s really informative. I have never really bothered with a garter carriage so that’s not a problem for me. The one thing I have never been able to understand is that why have two russell levers for putting each half of the carriage in hold as opposed to just one hold button which means the whole carriage is in hold...? If you forget to put both levers on it means that it will hold on one direction but as soon as you knit back it will knit the needles back... which then means the needles won’t hold..?
@@countkostaki I’m sure there is a scenario where have one Russell lever on, and one off is necessary, but it escapes me at the minute! I saw your comment on Irene’s post - that package is a steal.
@@sallybutcherskalamundakrafts Thanks. I ended up buying it from her. I'm really sorry to bombard you with all these questions - the transfer carriage you've used in the neckband video, is this the only type that is available for the KM machines and if so does it just work for 1x1 rib or does it do other types too?
@@countkostaki I think that was a fantastic deal from Irene. Hope you enjoy it. The RT1 can be used to transfer any rib stitch combination, even full needle rib as it will add the rib stitch to the knit stitch already on the needle, and just skips any empties. You need to make sure the ribber is on full pitch and the alignment spot on.
Hi I’m in the uk just wondering where you get coned yarn from. Thankyou for the videos
Hi Jules, I buy my coned yarn from various suppliers: Woolyknit, Yeoman Yarns, Uppingham Yarns are the ones I use most. But there are several others too. The magazine Machine Knitting Monthly carries adverts for a lot of them, as well as having nice patterns and useful articles.
Sally, would you go for the SK840 electronic in preference to punch card. I keep looking at other videos of yours and am not sure.
Well, I have both machines and guess which one stays in its box the most? Yup, the 840. The electronic is a lot more money, then you have to buy the software separately. I think it’s harder to learn. Maybe it’s my age!! Unless you are going to be really serious about selling and designing, or have a burning desire to knit reams of double bed jacquard, I - personally - would not buy the electronic. The punchcard is still an extremely versatile piece of kit and you could knit for a lifetime and not exhaust it’s capabilities. The three designers and knitters I admire the most all use basic punchcard models.
@@sallybutcherskalamundakrafts Sally, thank you so much for your very helpful reply and I will take your advice. I must admit thought if the 830 was still around and affordable I would have gone for that as most of the knitwear I personally wear is finer yarns or occasional cashmere (my sister) and thin cottony type yarn and I understand that the 280 and 840 don’t manage that. However I am now excited to look for a secondhand machine and there happens to be one on e-bay. Thank you again and also for your really clear videos. I am going to find a couple of patterns to look at now to see if i can understand them with things like shaping armholes and getting a punchcard pattern to run the whole wide thing of a garment.
Hi can you please tell me what kinda of yarn is The white yarn and the red yarn next to your machine and where do you get them and what gauge are they
They are both a U.K. 100% acrylic 4 ply yarn, which in US terms is a lightweight #1 fingering or sock weight yarn. I buy from various U.K. suppliers such as Woolyknit, Yeoman Yarns, Uppinghams among others. The average gauge will come out at 7 stitches and 9-10 rows per inch in stocking stitch.
Es währe schön , wenn die Beiträge auf deutsch wären
I have an electronic sk860
Where exactly do I find a copy of the tension sheet for different rulers?
it is available via Facebook on the Machine Knitting Beginners and Returners Circle
@@sallybutcherskalamundakrafts Thank you.
How many ply of yarn you have been using ?
I most often use a U.K. 4 ply yarn, which is a fingering or sock weight in the USA #1 on their thickness chart.
Thank you very much😊
Hw mch the price 120 brother kniting machen
I am not a machine seller or dealer.
Pp
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