I'm an engineer, both mechanical and light current electronics, and a Bosch qualified fuel injection technician. You have my respect because your analysis is thorough and complete. Thank you.
@@Vera_and_Christian Im an engineer with Cummins and I think the same thing as Alpha Omega. Pretty good explanation on your failure mode analysis, and unlike the usual 3 hour FTA on a regular work day, this one was fun lol :)
In Australia, Penrite 5w40. High zinc, suits my 400k TDV6 beautifully. 6000km changes with OEM oil filter. I would never miss LR Time; only wish I had Christian’s expertise!
Dear user anf friends of disco. I drive a discovery 3, from 2007.i have luck to get without DPF, but green label. I talk with intern staff of landrover! The answer by using the dpf the system burn routine with overloaded diesel at highest turn. This brings the diesel into oil and distroy the oil reception and the engine fix immediately. The engine is very good but the dpf is a very big problem. So if you have one with dpf change every short time the oil. I try to buy a 'geschmiedete' but nobody wants to deliver. Hopefully drives and owners can use this.
@@Dave5843-d9m This is sort of a fact of life with modern diesels, all you can do is clean it as routine maintainance. Funnily enough it was also an issue in early motorcars, so much so that removing the head to 'decarbonise' the valves was considered a normal part of a service.
Excellent video. After 12 years of owning at least one d3/4 at a time, (at times I owned 2 at the same time) I’ve finally walked away from them for good. I’m now daily driving my 300tdi defender. It may not be any more reliable, but failures are easily fixable in my humble workshop and I’m yet to hear of a snapped crank in a tdi.
Hi there this is the first time I saw a such good explanation of all the LR discovery issues. I love this type of car and I consider them very capable off-road especially the Disco 1 and 2 which I have owned personally but it cost me a lot of money and patience to going through all their problems. I finally give it and I bought the mistubishi pajero (montero in EU) and although the car more than 20 years old she drive like a dream without 0 issues.
@@KoDeMondoI know where your coming from , I had the disc mark 1 years ago and yes it was amazing off road but it didn’t last long , I remember climbing into the boot and my foot went through the floor it was only the carpet that stopped it hitting the chassis 😂 , I know one thing for sure it was more reliable then the L322 V8 diesel Range Rover.. now that was the most unreliable car I’ve ever owned but what a lovely car to drive , such a shame.
Thank you both for all your time & effort to share and so clearly explain this information. I’m sure like myself, there are many D4 owners / followers of your channel right now out there feeling a huge sense of relief at finally understanding the actual issues and causes of the crank weaknesses plus your advice on actions to mitigate. Its a great service you’ve done. Btw- I actually do have a mint condition ‘89 W124 M103 E Class now 335k as my back up car, inherited from my father in 2001. Ballarat, Australia
A good friend of mine has a '89 W124 OM606 E300 (with some E500 parts on it) and the thing had ~400k km on the clock when he threw a bigger turbo and injectors on it. The extra power cost him the rear differential once but besides that the car is still running just perfetct. That was like 5 years ago now he's close to 600k and the thing is still running just perfect. "They don't build em like that anymore." Sadly.
being an owner of an D3 ('2005, 200k miles) and D4 ('2015, 120k miles), I watch all your videos with great interest (and get inspiration to do my own repairs where possible). However, this one tops everything done so far. it is systematic, logical and really well illustrated. Have you ever considered giving lectures to engineering students (Maschinenbau), as an externally invited/contracted guest speaker? I have nothing to do with engineering, but considering the very high didactic value of your videos and specifically this one, such lectures could add significant value to the curriculum. [of course, students can just subscribe to your channel...]
Wow, best video ever describing the TDV6 engine. Mine failed at 375000KM on a 2008 LR3, did what you said to prolong life. 1 thing to add are the failing glow plugs that add cranking time in cold weather and accelerate wear. So make sure they are working tip-top.
Wow just wow!!! Finally the most logical explanation to all the problems I have heard, thank you for all the effort you put into this...and Landrover take no responsibility for there failures, so many people were financially bankrupted by this vehicle
@@ericjohnson6802 I don't think we need to take him literally - it's the extreme injustice he's trying to get across. I'd consider myself as having been robbed (literally this time) if I had to pay £6000 for a new engine (french friend's 2005 D3 with unsuccessful 3rd party engine which finally led the garage to accidentally set fire to car to get him out of a complete loss situation). Or £10000 in late 2021 for a new LR engine on my nephew's D4 (2017!!). In this case, because it was 'recent' with fsh, he finally (v hard negotiating) got 25% from LR and 25% from TP warranty. I've been lucky so far (2005 D3) with an ultra-reliable vehicle unlike the TD5 before it. Love them both though despite their faults - you have to see it as a marriage rather than car ownership!
The reason for the destruction of the crankshaft is not explained. The crankshaft is destroyed by the loads caused by torsional vibrations. Gradually, cracks appear in it, which lead to destruction. On the F-150, the crankshaft does not destroy, it is modernized. But on the F-150, the torsional vibration damper is more powerful. To eliminate it, it is necessary to avoid rotation resonance of torsional vibrations, eliminate uneven fuel injection (injector balance) and install an additional vibration damper.
In my humble opinion I think your best video to date. I have owned my 2013 Discovery 4 HSE since new and love the car but am nervous about the engine issues. You explained the details perfectly, a great pity you were not on the original design team! Keep up the great work.
To avoid destruction of the crankshaft, it is necessary to avoid the speed range at which there is a resonance of torsional vibrations, eliminate uneven fuel injection (injector balance) and install an additional vibration damper. The balance of the injectors is very important, as imbalance creates forces that cause torsional vibrations. On a LR with a 3l engine, the injectors can only be checked at the stand and new correction codes for each injector can be registered in the car. A good option is to preventively replace the crankshaft and bearings with parts from the F-150, they are similar in size and fit the Land Rover.
There are likely lots of excellent engineers at LR. they will be controlled by LR management and will be cursing the stupidity of the management team. every. single. day.
Had to stop the video half way to comment how amazing this episode is. Your insight into the engine is a pleasure to watch. I have a new found respect for the engineering department. Please do more content like this!
What an excellent in depth review. I’ve owned my XJ350 Jag for over 10 years. Bought with 48k miles on the clock and now at 183k miles. Still runs as sweet as a nut, but will be vigilant to follow steps as described to protect the engine. Absolutely love the car and it’s not going anywhere soon, so I hope I don’t live to regret it…..
@@callumhardy50982006 but not sure re. engine oil. I have it regularly serviced and maintained at an independent Jaguar specialist. They use a Mobil diesel specific oil but not sure what grade. I always drive in sport mode and keep revs above 2k to prevent issues with DPF filter and EGR valves. I also never use kick-down and use manual override as my preferred driving method. Now on 192k and going strong. I hope this continues 😬
Outstanding. I've been reading up and trying to find a definitive guide to this problem for a while now for my 2011 TDV6 and this is it. Brilliantly explained, thank you!
By far 100% the best automotive videos by any other couple, so easy to understand and both of you are naturally funny which makes it even better to watch and it makes learning fun
Love the video as usual. Quite interesting. I had total engine failure in my wife's Toyota a few months ago. brand new battery installed and all was good
Hi Guys, well that was, without doubt the best 40 mins I've ever invested in learning how engines are designed and built. Your delivery Christian was at a measured pace, with just the right amount of detail, backed up with lots of source material and above all, LOGIC. This is probably not only your best ever video but one of THE BEST EVER technical videos I have watched and absorbed. Whilst watching this, I kept imagining how many viewers were preparing their court cases against LR for negligence. Very, very well done, you deserve a big pat on the back for such fine work. "Helmets on, ready to receive the shells of discontent..."
Oh my God, thank you all for all this valuable information that we cannot get except through experts who share the results with everyone for the benefit of the community. You are more than wonderful. The explanation is more than wonderful and simple to understand for the community. I wish I had known about your channel a long time ago.
Awesome video. This the best technical engine failure analysis on youtube. Christan & Vera the clearity of the technical presentation, vidoreography setup would the bbc.
About 4 years ago I nearly “upgraded” my 190k miles 2005 D3, that I have owned from new, to a D4! Glad I stayed with my D3 and continue to do my own servicing. Also very pleased to find this channel. Well done.
Exactly the same story for me.....didn't want that overcomplicated, over-stretched engine and all the bling ('luxury' everyone considers it) that comes with the D4. Having now de-oranged all lighting, I prefer the old grill and boxy looks, but that's obviously a personal opinion.
Just excellent, irrespective of the engine manufacturer, your explanation of engine design tolerances and potentials for failure are the best I have ever heard. Just superb, thank you.
By far, and I mean it, the best documented and well explained video on these engines. I'm pretty happy to get rid off my former 2011 Disco 4 sdv6 4 years ago knowing a few of these issues. But now i'm even happier since I didn't suspect so many design flaws. Many thanks!
Another amazing video, thanks both. My Jaguar XJ engine suffered catastrophic failure after 5 years and 35k miles. It was out of warranty but I was lucky, I wrote to JLR's boss at the time and they agreed to 100% fund a replacement engine. Another issue I've read about elsewhere is oil dilution... Basically, the engine takes your 5W Dumbass and gradually dilutes it with diesel, which makes it even thinner. With the new engine I'm doing oil and filter changes every 5k miles and I'm a little more cautious with my right foot. I just hope I haven't got a Monday morning crankshaft 😮
Imagine owning a car where you can't even drive it properly and treat it like a princess 🤦♂️. No way would i ever buy one of these ticking time bombs.
What an epic video. Your presentation skills, technical knowledge and ability to explain it IN ANOTHER language is fantastic. Then add in your humour and your lovely wife's fantastic support, the result is glorious. I can't wait to watch some more and learn lots.
I must agree with others, this was a brilliant video, the best yet. I liked the design history part, the explanation of common failures and what you can do to minimise the problems. In all I loved it, 10/10!
That was one of the best videos I’ve seen in a long time. I’m no engineer, but thanks to both of you I feel like I could grasp all the points and I’ve learnt a very great deal. The style and dynamic between you both is amazing! Thank you and I’ll keep watching!
Fascinating!! I have just bought a Disco 4 with 226,000km on the clock. it's not leaking oil....yet! After watching this video I am going to have another glass of Drambuie! I've subscribed!
Wow, what a great point of discussion. I really appreciated your explanation of the 3.0L Lion engine crankshaft design and failure modes along with your thoughts on possible preventative measures. I have owned my 2011 Discovery 4 SDV6 since new. The SDV6 engine reliability is an issue that sits uncomfortably in the back of my mind, and given the distances that I travel it has me a little concerned. Many years ago an old mechanic friend said to me that "new oil is cheap maintenance" and that comment has stuck with me and has been literally applied to every vehicle and motorcycle I have owned, consequently the engine in my D4 has had the benefit of oil and filter changes every 7,500km for the entire life of the vehicle. The D4 is now approaching 340,000km on the odometer. I still use the 5W 30 oil in my discovery 4 but and am now wondering about a change to the 5W 40. That said, I am not sure of the benefit given the age of the engine and and the work it has already done? I must now go back and watch your comment on the oil issue! Anyhow thanks again for your well considered and excellent explanation.
I bought a 2012 Discovery 4 SDV6 (it was in fact one of the press demonstrators for the upgraded car - it appeared in numerous reviews). Absolutely fabulous car, but, with a massive massive but!!! I soon discovered the propensity for the crank to fail. A local indy where I had it serviced always had several of these engines in for rebuild. Not just an occasional one, but always two other three at any one time. And that's just the ones that could be rebuilt - probably one in three that failed. The Indy had no reason to hide problems unlike your average LR dealers. It was with great reluctance that I quickly sold it on, a decision accelerated by the fact that LR's warranty would not cover this mode of failure. Not just a worry unloaded but, as a Land Rover owner for many years, the cause of loss of trust with LR themselves. A potential bullet dodged!
In Kosovo we say that there is no bad diesel engine. There is just poor maintained diesel engine. In my village people say that if you want your engine to last long change oil TWICE a year or on maximum 5000Km. Actually Japanese car manufacturers mention that in their manuals (in Japanese web site you could read that). I was stunned when I have discovered that Japanese recommend oil change on non turbo engines driven in harsh condition (city drive, highway drive, driving on salty roads lots of idling etc) oil change interval is 5000Km or maximum 6 months, but on Turbocharged engines the interval is 2500Km or three months. That was insane for me but it seems that Japanese manufacturers are right in order to have trouble free engine operation. Shell did a research and confirm that max interval for engine oil is 200 Engine hours !! So the story of cnaging engine oil every 10000Km or 15000Km is not good for overall engine life. Kosovo is the poor country with excellent mechanics (not as good as pakistani ones), but at least we are keeping our cars long time. Our favourite is VW Golf Mk 2 1.6 D
Maybe a second channel as automotive research scientist? Absolutely amazing in depth information on the TDV6. I was lucky and covered 160, 000 miles without this issue. Thanks for listing this video and sharing this essential information, there are a lot of owners who will benefit immensely from your research, on behalf of them thank you.
Similar boat, I had around 220k on mine with no issues on an 08 L320 RRS. Air suspension problems yes, but no engine issues. Edit: Halfway through the video I believe we always ran 15w-40 fwiw. It's all that was available in full synthetic.
I am from the Caribbean it's hot my buddy uses golf 15w 40 oil no problem. I am looking to get a land rover my self I learn a lot from you guys the best on TH-cam..
This fabulous engine is also in the Aussie Ford Territory. Which is funny, that car has the worst diesel engine and also the best ever petrol engine. Fun video! :)
I've been in the motor trade on the tools for about 34 years now but this video is tremendous on the information, very very few people that have this level of knowledge are willing to share it. brilliant😊
Your passion shines through about these vehicles. Your amazing in-depth knowledge is truly something to be very proud of. Unfortunately , I just couldn't commit to buying any lr product. I havn't the time for all that maintenance. Keep up the fantastic work 👏 👏👏
Oh well done. That is by far the tech best video you have made. Very informative and yes I learnt a bit about the design ethos, not sure I understood it, but that is for another rabbit hole when I get out of my current warren :) I'm also going to try to remember to not kick it down so hard when I have to do my fast overtakes to change position at work escorting Convois Exceptionnels, but drop 4 or 5 gears with the paddle first. I do sometimes use the paddles to change down before letting the torque rip on fast overtakes, but that's more when I'm driving in manual mode and S with a 20mm suspension drop, in a 'spirited manner' on some beautiful Spanish twisty roads. Now I have to explain why certain people in the garage trade continue to recommend 5w30. It's the oil LR spec for the UK market. If a garage that a customer pays to service their car uses a different grade than which is specified, and the crank fails, then some customers will blame it on the wrong oil and come back to claim on the garage who did it. If a garagiste goes public on the internet saying to use a different spec oil then there is a possibility that some dumbass could take legal action against them. We know such madness happens. 'he told the world on FaceAche it was ok to put 5w40 in my engine, and he's a professional garagiste, and then 2 days or 2 years later my reved from cold, low oil level engine snapped its crank, so I'm going to sue him because he expressed a professional opinion'. If I were to take my car for an oil change, (I cannot imagine any circumstance for this :) I would specify in writing what oil to use. Then they're in the clear, and I get the oil I want. Long ago I did the research on the oil, and like you, found the Citroen specifications. My 2.7 has run on 40 ever since. I've not yet run the 3.0 on it as it's been difficult to find a 40 C1 or C2, but now 5w40 C3 oils are becoming common, and the difference between C1, C2 and C3 is in the soot level and HTHS, with C3 being slightly less in favour of fuel consumption and slightly better in terms of bearing face protection. C2 and C3 oil is slightly sootier than C1 so the DPF needs to regenerate more often which also slightly increases the fuel consumption. As you so eloquently put it, the tests were designed to reach the conclusion required because the 5w30 gives just enough of a better fuel consumption under test conditions to enable the manufacturer to claim a certain fuel figure, and the engine will probably last the warranty period. The reason for this is to pander to the big leasing companies, as is the ridiculously long oil change interval. The leasing companies are not interested in the car after the 3 or 4 year lease as it's made them their money and they put it out to the 2nd hand market, so they want a minimum of servicing that they have to pay for while being just enough to meet any service requirements for warranty claims. My advise, as a D3 and D4 owner driver and DIYer is: I prefer to get the best engine protection I can for a reasonable cost. I can live with slightly increased fuel consumption and I care not a jot about the emissions because I don't run the vehicle under strict test conditions to meet a prescribed consumption, and they easily run clean enough to meet the legal emissions limits. 5w40 C3 oils are now coming to the mass market for 3.0 engines with DPF. 5w40 A3/A5 oils have been available for non DPF 2.7s for a long time now. The engine was designed over 20 years ago and the oils specced with the reasons explained above. In the real world, the engine spec remains the same (or gets slacker as seen in the 3.0 workshop manual) and the oil technology continues to evolve. Embrace that, get the best protection you can at a price level you are happy with, but make your own decision, and don't put the blame on someone else if it all goes wrong. Gruff 2023
Well yes..but no. Toyota 3.0 D4D KD-FTV after Euro 3 and higher has piston crack problems.. Thats why i have Mitsubishi Pajero 3.2Di-D.. which has only few minor problems.
Some serious information to take in guys and thanks for taking the time to produce these quality video's......biggest bit that gets me is the fact LR wont take responsibility for the failures.
And now they're under different ownership and Tata industries which have their own problems don't want to take responsibility for what decisions Ford made before they bought Land Rover in 2008 was it?
Amazing, I never thought in my life to watch a video on youtube for 40 minutes with interest, and I don't have a TDV6, but a TD5, but I followed a friend with a TDV6 with the crankshaft broken, congratulations for this video, I was ecstatic.
Thanks for the video. I can listen to you all day. All you are putting out here is loads of experience that would take anyone so many years to get. Thanks.
Incredible video. I own my D3 for 4 years. In the very beginning I performed a preventive maintenence - bearings, sealing, oil pump etc were changed. From then I change the oil every 160 hours (distance per average speed) and it's 5w40 certainly
That was an outstanding video. Very informative and your examples and explanations made it very easy to understand. Thank you for the effort that both of you put in to these productions. 👍🏻👌🏻
That was awesome!!! Going to change from 5W30 to 5W40 immediately! I love my L4 but the engine problems scares me. Understand that it could break anyway but I will follow your 3 recommendations and hope...
First off, Happy New Year. I am new (last 6 months) to the channel, but I never miss an episode and always look forward to each one. As much for the knowledge as for the humor while informing us! I've also gone back through the catalog and viewed many others. Which brought me to this one! I have a 2016 L405 TDv6 that has 144K miles on it! It has been maintained properly from day one and never presented a real problem of any kind (I know, amazing!) I should say here that I live in the US and this is my 5th LR/RR since 1998. I've owned Gen 2 and Gen 3s as well as a an LR3 Disco. I bought this Gen 4 because I wanted the diesel and they don't bring the V8 to our shores, so I bought it without realizing I had just rolled the dice! In any event two things have cropped up. One was a small coolant line in the rear of the engine and the second is an apparent oil leak in the same general area that causes some burn off and light smoking under the hood! I'm thinking maybe the turbocharger oil feed pipe is leaking at the flexible part and running down the pipe and dripping onto the manifold? I also had a look at the knuckles. They seem fine and there's no recall notice of any kind here, so I may need to dig deeper and her sure they are sound!
An absolutely, brilliantly presented, thoroughly researched, most informative video you guys! A really great piece of work, most definitely will be watching this one a few times over, as it's too much for my non-engineer brain to capture all in one sitting.
As a UK Automotive Engineer, I also 100% agree with your assessment of the LR V6 diesel engine, I would suggest that the diesel Injection system also needs to be in good health to ensure engine reliability. The Common Rail Injectors need to be calibrated and balanced to ensure that no engine cylinder runs at higher combustion pressure than the other cylinders. Especially important is the use of Good Quality Diesel fuel Shell, BP or similar which is to the EN 590 spec and add a diesel fuel additive like 2-EHN to improve the cetane number of the fuel which improves combustion, emissions, power and reliability. Good Video ..............👍
@@shughumphrey Any Diesel pump injector specialist Like Merlin UK will check injectors and ensure they are spraying the correct pattern and quantity of fuel. 3.0 d v6 injectors have a calibration code label on each injector that must be coded into the engine ecu.
fascinating discussion, love the detail. The engineering analysis of the crankshaft design and lubrication requirements is invaluable to engine longevity for anyone how has a TDV6. Great work.
If the V6 diesel (AJD-V6) 2.7 or 3.0 engine has a concern with oil pressure, which may appear as a rough running sound, then before going to a bigger problem (e.g. bearings), you should check the condition of the outlet valve at the bottom of the oil filter leg. The exhaust valve is a rubber cone that is attached to a metal cylinder that acts as a spring with only a small nut. When the filter rises up, the valve opens, causing the oil in the filter to drain into the sump and not around the engine. You should always press the new filter directly onto the leg and not onto the plastic cover, because when rotating in place, the filter can easily be swept by the lateral force onto the bottom of the valve leg, which is only resting on the nipple. (and the nipple is the one that touches the filter first) An open exhaust valve wastes about 1/3 of the oil pressure, which is not a good thing at all. The rubber valve may also harden from the wrong oils, causing it to fall out of place on its own when the filter is changed.
Great video thanks. Having stripped down a few engines in the past I am well aware of oil delivery problems & wear etc, I also never floored my D3 from any revs :) Luckily I was a member of the LR3 website & learned about the auto gearbox linkage issue as well. That linkage will sieze up & immobilse the box. I read a few people have been subject to gearbox stripdowns when that stuck linkage was just the issue.
Brilliant video. Have a D4 and because it’s under warranty I’m stuck with getting it serviced at the dealer. However I run it for a few thousand km on the 5w dumbass before doing another interim service myself and change to 5w40 magnatec. Have done a lot of research myself but the internet is a hard place to find the truth. Really interesting to see that one main bearing feeds two others but essentially cuts off half the time! Very sobering! You’ve earned your Patreon fee this month 😂. Keep up the good work
Great analysis. I've often wondered why they don't design an electric pre-pump arrangement for start-up on all engines. My old BMW bike is designed with a flooded pump and very low oil filter and the engine lasts for ever on any old oil.
Just read your comments about a pre-start lubrication pump. I made the same sudjustion, but I wouldn't want ant rubber hoses. Solid pipe, stainless or copper, as you wouldn't want lubrication hose to bust. Even if it was a manual pump, for extreme cold starts, or been sitting a long time with no oil in top end.
Hey, me too - the irony is that my D3 TDV6 has been the most reliable of all of them!! That, and the fact that the D4 and subsequent models are too sophisticated and bling, is why I've kept it....
Hi Christian and Vera. Brilliant delivery on a sore subject. I'm looking to change my Range Rover to a D4, i.e. from petrol to diesel. Very worrying subject, but is it possible to minimise the main bearing oil delivery problems at least, by trying the following: 1. Relocating the oil filter to a lower position using a remote filter? 2. Using a top cap main bearing in place of the bottom cap? I suspect they use different materials, but at least the channel provides oil to the bottom of the crank. 3. Use a regulated electric oil pump to pre-charge the oil galleries. That then raises the oil pressure to near 1 bar at engine start up and idle.
Excellent video on the technical aspects of the Ford (and LR) V6 diesel. In regard to oil grade and the current, nearly standardized, spec for 10w-30 or even 10w-20, I wholeheartedly agree. Both my BMWs and Volvos (still looking for a decent Disco 3 here in Nova Scotia) go thru that same "noise" about approved grades in their owner's manuals, showing 10w-40 only as an extreme service application. I use, and have used, 10w-40 religiously over the last 15 years or so and have achieved 300K+ kms on multiple engines (all petrol). On all these engines, I have had no noticeable oil loss due to wear, no smoke, no plug deposits, etc. So absolutely 10w-40 or 0w-40 is the way to go on nearly all modern automotive engines. BTW, is Christian the same Christian Muth that holds a dozen plus patents involving balancing of rotating shafts? If so, you might want to mention that in these kinds of vids. I've been around car stuff for over 50 years now, and it is clear to me that Christian can speak to these subjects with authority. But to some these days, they need to "see the paperwork". Anyway, great content! Thank you.
I'm afraid there is one huge error in Christans analysis being that since these engines were all built at Ford's diesel plant at Bridgend in South Wales the problem is rugby, not football.
Thank you both for an informative and entertaining video. Having worked for a subsidiary of a German Automotive company for many years I also came across instances where Management Directives overruled design principles! Christian sounds very much like my old works colleagues, which makes the video more enjoyable. Oil technology is very interesting and not just about SAE grades. Different oil manufacturers/blenders use different friction modifiers and other additives which makes a difference between brand performance. Castrol is one of the best, in my opinion.
Very interesting talk about the Ford Lion. Although scary, the reasons for an engine failure applies to any make of engine, with a second hand vehicle you never know how it's been treated. Shame Ford didn't spend a bit more time on it 😉. look forward to next Sunday, take care.
In the past, I really wanted a LR4 but after finding out how many problems they have, I am glad I never got the chance to buy one. High blood pressure galore, and stress by the score with this heap would have been the case. Nice vehicle design, capable vehicle, but crap. I ended up going to a Toyota Landcruiser, and missed out on a big, big smorgasbord of failure and expense. Fate stopped me making the worst mistake I could make. Fate was truly kind to me. Fantastic video, and exemplary explanation of Ford's big R&D flop.
We must chat .... I was the lubrication component engineer at ford during the batch 1 development phase of the lion v6, after the concept was handed over from Aachen. I was responsible for the oil pump, oil filter, pickup pipe and dipstick and a good friend of mine was the system engineer at the time. Also that whole thing about the idler boss on the pump body ...
@@arnoldoduor Well that's just the thing, they're not seen as flaws at the time, they're issues to resolve and compromises to be made as best as we can with the evidence we can get, to get to a released design which meets all the requirements. The tensioner boss looked quite different at batch 1 when I was responsible and the FEA at the time showed it would work, based on the loads from the primary drive team.
There is just poor maintained diesel engine. In my village people say that if you want your engine to last long change oil TWICE a year or on maximum 5000Km. Actually Japanese car manufacturers mention that in their manuals (in Japanese web site you could read that). I was stunned when I have discovered that Japanese recommend oil change on non turbo engines driven in harsh condition (city drive, highway drive, driving on salty roads lots of idling etc) oil change interval is 5000Km or maximum 6 months, but on Turbocharged engines the interval is 2500Km or three months. That was insane for me but it seems that Japanese manufacturers are right in order to have trouble free engine operation. Shell did a research and confirm that max interval for engine oil is 200 Engine hours !! So the story of cnaging engine oil every 10000Km or 15000Km is not good for overall engine life. Kosovo is the poor country with excellent mechanics (not as good as pakistani ones), but at least we are keeping our cars long time. Our favourite is VW Golf Mk 2 1.6 D
Absolutely brilliant, sat here chuckling at the reference to the Monday morning syndrome. As a retired life long engineer I can relate to every instance of the accountants or marketing managers ‘re engineering ‘ what already was a crap design into a disaster waiting to happen. We also had anachronism for all makes of machines, Ford was fix or repair daily...
Such a thorough analysis... I can listen to you for ages! In my honest opinion the correlation between crankshaft failures in TDV6 2.7L and how much towing was done with the rig is linear. Recently people are ditching the TDV6 in favor of the TDV8s (from range rover sport/vouge) I'd love to hear comparable analysis between these two if possible of course. Out of curiosity, have you considered adding an additional auxiliary oil pump which sprays oil before first cracking of the engine ?
I own a tdv8 (rrs) and it stills runs as a dream. Owned it for 5yrs now and still no problems with the engine to date. I did had to change the rubber pads for the cornering bar, and a wheel bearing but that’s about it. Fuel consumption is not higher then a tdv6 imo.
@Deceuninck I am almost 90% sure that the V8 doesn't have the starvation problem that the V6 has because the V8 is only fitted longtitdal in the RRS only. Apart from that if/when I put the V8 I will show off for sure :D
That engine MR LR works very well in the Peugeot and Citroen C6 , of which I both owned for ten years, but as you say when it is in a saloon body car the stresses on the crank and the demands are almost negligible
Just saying... If you would like to do a full series of lectures breaking down the D3/4 designs and engine construction, I would pay good money to see it! Truly amazing job. This level of detail whilst remaining consumable is a rare thing these days. Thank you both!
You want to know more? There's a guy near Cardiff that has a you tube channel called 'piston broke' where he clearly explains the high number of crankshaft breakages on these and does a full rebuild on one for a customer.Shows full removal,rebuild and reinstall.
Bravo, well put! Wonder if LR knew about this form the start on. My early Discovery3 would often sound one of it’s confusing ‘bongs’ just after starting, if the oil pressure had any delay in extinguishing the warning light. Annoyingly, no message ever appeared to say why the ‘bong’. I suspected it related to slow oil pressure and varied with oil changes. It had had the oil pump replaced but it was very fussy on the oil used. There may have been a software upgrade to remove this feature as I haven’t heard anyone mentioning it. The engine never failed, to my knowledge, but I traded it in at 110kmiles for its weekly attention seeking fault routine. Great truck, but their engineering suffers from accountant interference.
Brilliant analysis Christian !!! Everyone in Europe should use 5w 40 c3 , like you explained in a previous video , and i would recommend that you change the oil & filter atleast twice per year , with 5000 or 6000 miles max between each oil service service . Great video
This is just outstanding, easily your best video ever. You've just completely cured my desire to replace my 300,000km (still smooth) 4.4v8 with a late model sdv6. My problem now is finding a vehicle that remotely compares to the comfort and practicality of the DISCO 3/4.
The fuel economy is a key figure in design. More bearings gives higher stiffness and also higher dynamic friction. The "extra" bearings takes up space so the distance between pistons goes up and the weight for the engine block, which again cause lower fuel economy. Also modern engine you see in Audi consume a lot of oil due to sloppy piston rings so the the fuel economy can be improved.
Great watch as usual . Land Rover must be embarassed that a you tuber can deduce the failings of their engine . Cannot wait till C & V start looking at the Ingenium engine
I won't buy a Land Rover, it's not practical for my long commute to work but I still found this video fascinating and informative. That's quite an achievement by you two - entertaining and educating someone who has no real connection the subject matter. Great video.
Sir , you are great. There is no words to describe how much I admire your dedication towards the LR 3& 4 engines. Every detail are meticulously explained . I don’t understand why the LR managers and engineers plus the entire company test this crankshaft is strong enough to last . I can believe that they were totally ignorant of the fact that this will break. They are irresponsible and should be sued for their failure and negligence. They did not even bother to resolve the problem and recall the vehicles to replace the engines.
I love this channel. I am a mechanical development engineer (non automotive environment) but can completely relate to the management pressures that the engineers are forced to work within. Very good points raised about the simulation software (FEA) too - Garbage In / Garbage out. Excellent review of major concern points. I did some homework before I bought my Range Rover Sport - decided the TDV6 was problematic and avoided it. I went with the 3.6 litreTDV8, oil change every 5000 miles or less. A 2008 car - still going strong and brilliant to drive. Keep up the good work.
I had a 2010 RR Sport TDV8 from new, for almost six years. A cracker of an engine and never had any problems. I test drove the TDV6 (3.0L) and TDV8 (3.6L) before purchase. The TDV6 with its twin sequential turbo set-up just had more lag and bogged down in low revs compered to the parallel twin turbo on the TDV8 that "jumped" out of corners. I had done research beforehand (being an Engineer I had to), and read about the issues with the V6 before purchase but the V8 just drove better and just could not beat that glorious V8 sound!
Great video! It was nice seeing how enthusiastic and knowledgeable couple you are. You have earned a subscriber! I wish you could have a look at Volvo’s B5254T4 engine which was installed in S60R and V70R cars. It would also be interesting to see what the new VEA engines are hiding in Volvo’s new line of engines…
Sorry, going to have to nominate the Ingenium Diesel 2.0L 4 cylinder engine when installed in just about any Land Rover. The D150/180 variants in the original Discovery Sport and Evoque, plus the D240 when used in the Discovery 5. Even *if* you do regular oil changes i.e. double the recommended number, after as little as 40k miles you may be in trouble with snapped timing chains. Mine now booked for it's chain to be replaced (74k miles) and currently have my fingers crossed that when they do the compression test before they start the work, that it doesn't change from new chain to new engine... It's making the Lion V6 crank snapping lottery look like a worthwhile game! Love your content and humour, Sunday just wouldn't be Sunday now without LR Time 👏
I own the evoque with the D180 ingenium engine and have no option but to do a oil change every 6 months due to oil dilution , its a joke never had such issue on older diesels , don't think I will ever buy another diesel engine due to issues with DPF/EGR and oil dilution its not like we never do long journeys
The issue with the timing chain is more of an issue with the plastic chain guides on early production models being inadequate and breaking up. It has long been rectified on the production line with modified parts which can be retro-fitted to older engines as long as the job is done when the chain becomes noisy but before the component fails and the timing is lost. The issue with fuel contamination of sump oil is intrinsically linked to the failure of the DPF to regenerate during driving. This was due to a design and installation fault where in transverse engine vehicles, and only those, there was no room to fit the DPF at the exit of the turbocharger due to the bulkhead [firewall] being too close to the engine. This required and eventually got a redesign of the body so that a close coupled DPF could be fitted. End of problem. It was an issue that should have been foreseen before the changing of the old Ford engines for the new Ingenium JLR motors. It is most unfortunate that the same engines that have the timing chain issue also have the DPF/fuel-contamination issue. Avoid that age range of transverse Ingenium engine vehicles like the plague.
@@hedydd2 early fiat/gm diesel cars with DPFs suffered from that issue. You'd think with the knowledge out there that JLR was on to pain putting the DPF so far down the exhaust. Even wrapping the exhaust in heat wrap solves the problem!
@@jimgough8603 They had not thought about the Ingenium when they designed their transverse platform and almost certainly thought they could get away with the remote DPF at least for a while, until the revised body was introduced especially to accommodate the close-coupled DPF. No more issues. That doesn’t help the people stuck with the early models though.
Even as a non Discovery owner I knew about the oil pump issue before watching this video but not the oil starvation issue. Fascinating insight, vielen danke.
Had a '80 400 Ford in a 4x4, blueprinted, but with notorious oil pressure problem by design. A restriction kit to the upper cam gallery saved oil for the mains, and HV trw pump gave me "H" reading even at idle. Hi-Po cam, shaved heads (060), rod reman, ARP fasteners, 9.5:1comp, pol chamb. Blew a few a/t's and axles, but couldn't kill the engine. Truck lasted 150km, even with pedal on the floor most of the time, tach @55c. Ran QS 5W-40 for most of the year. Your design knowledge is spot on. Excellent video!
I wonder if the heads on this engine would allow a volume reduction. They are not known to fail. Good point and idea you mentioned there. Thanks. Christian
@@Vera_and_Christian I wanted the 4 in. stroke no matter what. Attention to detail was everything on heads: valve train shims everywhere, ARP head studs, valve clearances within spec, 290* Engle cam advanced 2.5 deg. (intake shaved too). Bottom end torque was bone jarring. Volume reduction for the over-size chambers was tricky. Switching to E-petrol minimized cyl press issues at wot, and water/methanol inj at the throttle helped on high spark advance. 3.5k rpm turned 4 x 35" locked tires in mud on 2nd Low gear, the "sweet spot." Other than oiling issues, the engine design was superb and built to last.
Been running 10w40 in my 1st gen discovery (with the rover t-16 4 cylinder petrol) doing oil changes every 6000km, original factory engine running from '93 with 270k km (sat in a field for 10 years too). Only issue with the engine itself was the blown head gasket. Valves, cams, (guess is the crank too) are all with minimal additional wear. They really don't make them like they used to.
Bad Monday morning crankshaft failure! 😂 Love the humor. Here in Australia the Lion 2.7V6 only made it into local cars by 2012. Here they seem to hold up reasonably well. Love the Toyota reference, but even they struggle to make a bulletproof engine (KD series with pistons cracking). However L series, 1HD and 1HZ is king and probably will never be surpassed is reliability and simplicity.
Hello from NZ! I have the 4.4 Petrol V8 Discovery 3 so most of the engine related issues don’t apply to me but I still watch all of your videos as they’re informative and entertaining, keep up the great work!
I'm an engineer, both mechanical and light current electronics, and a Bosch qualified fuel injection technician. You have my respect because your analysis is thorough and complete. Thank you.
🙏👍🙋♀️Vera
Your a mechanic
@@Vera_and_Christian Im an engineer with Cummins and I think the same thing as Alpha Omega. Pretty good explanation on your failure mode analysis, and unlike the usual 3 hour FTA on a regular work day, this one was fun lol :)
@@Misselfilmen 👍😀🙏🙋♀Vera
@@Vera_and_Christianis the Land Rover Defender (2016) 2.2 TD engine a bag of trouble too?
I don't even own a LR Discovery but I've learned more about engine mechanics in 40 minutes than I ever did at school. Bravo!
In Australia, Penrite 5w40. High zinc, suits my 400k TDV6 beautifully. 6000km changes with OEM oil filter. I would never miss LR Time; only wish I had Christian’s expertise!
Dear user anf friends of disco. I drive a discovery 3, from 2007.i have luck to get without DPF, but green label. I talk with intern staff of landrover! The answer by using the dpf the system burn routine with overloaded diesel at highest turn. This brings the diesel into oil and distroy the oil reception and the engine fix immediately. The engine is very good but the dpf is a very big problem. So if you have one with dpf change every short time the oil. I try to buy a 'geschmiedete' but nobody wants to deliver. Hopefully drives and owners can use this.
I have a Fiat 1.3 JTD diesel. At 120,000 miles the inlet side was clogged with carbon
@@Dave5843-d9m This is sort of a fact of life with modern diesels, all you can do is clean it as routine maintainance. Funnily enough it was also an issue in early motorcars, so much so that removing the head to 'decarbonise' the valves was considered a normal part of a service.
That mileage is as good as any Toyota
Install a catch can and run 15w 50 …. Perfect for towing and the tropics.
Excellent video.
After 12 years of owning at least one d3/4 at a time, (at times I owned 2 at the same time) I’ve finally walked away from them for good. I’m now daily driving my 300tdi defender. It may not be any more reliable, but failures are easily fixable in my humble workshop and I’m yet to hear of a snapped crank in a tdi.
This is by far one of the best engine explanations I ever saw. Thank you very much for putting your time and effort into this.
Design by committee is the problem, money saving is the only thing a committee can all agree on. Simple.
Nothing to do with saving money it's to do with making money
Hi there this is the first time I saw a such good explanation of all the LR discovery issues. I love this type of car and I consider them very capable off-road especially the Disco 1 and 2 which I have owned personally but it cost me a lot of money and patience to going through all their problems. I finally give it and I bought the mistubishi pajero (montero in EU) and although the car more than 20 years old she drive like a dream without 0 issues.
@@KoDeMondoI know where your coming from , I had the disc mark 1 years ago and yes it was amazing off road but it didn’t last long , I remember climbing into the boot and my foot went through the floor it was only the carpet that stopped it hitting the chassis 😂 , I know one thing for sure it was more reliable then the L322 V8 diesel Range Rover.. now that was the most unreliable car I’ve ever owned but what a lovely car to drive , such a shame.
Thank you both for all your time & effort to share and so clearly explain this information.
I’m sure like myself, there are many D4 owners / followers of your channel right now out there feeling a huge sense of relief at finally understanding the actual issues and causes of the crank weaknesses plus your advice on actions to mitigate. Its a great service you’ve done.
Btw- I actually do have a mint condition ‘89 W124 M103 E Class now 335k as my back up car,
inherited from my father in 2001.
Ballarat, Australia
335k! Just nicely run in then. A supremely smooth unit. I have an '87 300TE.
A good friend of mine has a '89 W124 OM606 E300 (with some E500 parts on it) and the thing had ~400k km on the clock when he threw a bigger turbo and injectors on it. The extra power cost him the rear differential once but besides that the car is still running just perfetct. That was like 5 years ago now he's close to 600k and the thing is still running just perfect.
"They don't build em like that anymore." Sadly.
No its number 2...
No.1 is also a Ford...
The 6.0 Powerstroke.
being an owner of an D3 ('2005, 200k miles) and D4 ('2015, 120k miles), I watch all your videos with great interest (and get inspiration to do my own repairs where possible). However, this one tops everything done so far. it is systematic, logical and really well illustrated. Have you ever considered giving lectures to engineering students (Maschinenbau), as an externally invited/contracted guest speaker? I have nothing to do with engineering, but considering the very high didactic value of your videos and specifically this one, such lectures could add significant value to the curriculum. [of course, students can just subscribe to your channel...]
WOW! As an ex-master tech, I was riveted by this! I would watch one of these technical break downs on every single engine ever built.
Brilliant!
Wow, best video ever describing the TDV6 engine. Mine failed at 375000KM on a 2008 LR3, did what you said to prolong life. 1 thing to add are the failing glow plugs that add cranking time in cold weather and accelerate wear. So make sure they are working tip-top.
I don't have a LR, but I do have an old diesel and sometimes in winter I'll give the glow plugs 2-3 goes before cranking, to get them nice and warm.
Wow just wow!!! Finally the most logical explanation to all the problems I have heard, thank you for all the effort you put into this...and Landrover take no responsibility for there failures, so many people were financially bankrupted by this vehicle
According to Land Rover the disintegrating crankshaft is a myth..according to Land Rover 🤐🗣
Really.^many bankrupted"..surely not!
@@ericjohnson6802 I don't think we need to take him literally - it's the extreme injustice he's trying to get across. I'd consider myself as having been robbed (literally this time) if I had to pay £6000 for a new engine (french friend's 2005 D3 with unsuccessful 3rd party engine which finally led the garage to accidentally set fire to car to get him out of a complete loss situation). Or £10000 in late 2021 for a new LR engine on my nephew's D4 (2017!!). In this case, because it was 'recent' with fsh, he finally (v hard negotiating) got 25% from LR and 25% from TP warranty. I've been lucky so far (2005 D3) with an ultra-reliable vehicle unlike the TD5 before it. Love them both though despite their faults - you have to see it as a marriage rather than car ownership!
The reason for the destruction of the crankshaft is not explained. The crankshaft is destroyed by the loads caused by torsional vibrations. Gradually, cracks appear in it, which lead to destruction.
On the F-150, the crankshaft does not destroy, it is modernized. But on the F-150, the torsional vibration damper is more powerful.
To eliminate it, it is necessary to avoid rotation resonance of torsional vibrations, eliminate uneven fuel injection (injector balance) and install an additional vibration damper.
In my humble opinion I think your best video to date. I have owned my 2013 Discovery 4 HSE since new and love the car but am nervous about the engine issues. You explained the details perfectly, a great pity you were not on the original design team! Keep up the great work.
To avoid destruction of the crankshaft, it is necessary to avoid the speed range at which there is a resonance of torsional vibrations, eliminate uneven fuel injection (injector balance) and install an additional vibration damper. The balance of the injectors is very important, as imbalance creates forces that cause torsional vibrations. On a LR with a 3l engine, the injectors can only be checked at the stand and new correction codes for each injector can be registered in the car.
A good option is to preventively replace the crankshaft and bearings with parts from the F-150, they are similar in size and fit the Land Rover.
There are likely lots of excellent engineers at LR. they will be controlled by LR management and will be cursing the stupidity of the management team. every. single. day.
@@simonr23 to be fair it's a ford engine
@@ВикторМанаков-к1ъ"resonance of torsional vibrations" would this be when the engine is a low revs and maybe towing ?
Had to stop the video half way to comment how amazing this episode is. Your insight into the engine is a pleasure to watch. I have a new found respect for the engineering department. Please do more content like this!
What an excellent in depth review.
I’ve owned my XJ350 Jag for over 10 years. Bought with 48k miles on the clock and now at 183k miles. Still runs as sweet as a nut, but will be vigilant to follow steps as described to protect the engine.
Absolutely love the car and it’s not going anywhere soon, so I hope I don’t live to regret it…..
What year? And what oil are you using?
@@callumhardy50982006 but not sure re. engine oil. I have it regularly serviced and maintained at an independent Jaguar specialist. They use a Mobil diesel specific oil but not sure what grade. I always drive in sport mode and keep revs above 2k to prevent issues with DPF filter and EGR valves. I also never use kick-down and use manual override as my preferred driving method.
Now on 192k and going strong. I hope this continues 😬
Outstanding. I've been reading up and trying to find a definitive guide to this problem for a while now for my 2011 TDV6 and this is it. Brilliantly explained, thank you!
By far 100% the best automotive videos by any other couple, so easy to understand and both of you are naturally funny which makes it even better to watch and it makes learning fun
Love the video as usual. Quite interesting. I had total engine failure in my wife's Toyota a few months ago. brand new battery installed and all was good
Lol 😂🏆👌👍💪 Christian
Danke, gut gebrummt von beiden, alles richtig gut rübergebracht!
You have my sympathies, being off the road for 15 minutes must have been devastating! Toyota owners really do suffer!
The great tragedy that keeps Toyota owners up at night.
What is the world coming to!
Hi Guys, well that was, without doubt the best 40 mins I've ever invested in learning how engines are designed and built.
Your delivery Christian was at a measured pace, with just the right amount of detail, backed up with lots of source material and above all, LOGIC.
This is probably not only your best ever video but one of THE BEST EVER technical videos I have watched and absorbed.
Whilst watching this, I kept imagining how many viewers were preparing their court cases against LR for negligence.
Very, very well done, you deserve a big pat on the back for such fine work.
"Helmets on, ready to receive the shells of discontent..."
Thanks. The raw footage was 136 minutes. Poor Vera. Her arm fell off. LOL. Christian
You beat me to this comment. Utterly agree how informative and entertaining these guys are. I'm totally hooked and subscribed..
Oh my God, thank you all for all this valuable information that we cannot get except through experts who share the results with everyone for the benefit of the community. You are more than wonderful. The explanation is more than wonderful and simple to understand for the community. I wish I had known about your channel a long time ago.
Awesome video. This the best technical engine failure analysis on youtube.
Christan & Vera the clearity of the technical presentation, vidoreography setup would the bbc.
About 4 years ago I nearly “upgraded” my 190k miles 2005 D3, that I have owned from new, to a D4! Glad I stayed with my D3 and continue to do my own servicing. Also very pleased to find this channel. Well done.
Exactly the same story for me.....didn't want that overcomplicated, over-stretched engine and all the bling ('luxury' everyone considers it) that comes with the D4. Having now de-oranged all lighting, I prefer the old grill and boxy looks, but that's obviously a personal opinion.
Just excellent, irrespective of the engine manufacturer, your explanation of engine design tolerances and potentials for failure are the best I have ever heard. Just superb, thank you.
By far, and I mean it, the best documented and well explained video on these engines. I'm pretty happy to get rid off my former 2011 Disco 4 sdv6 4 years ago knowing a few of these issues. But now i'm even happier since I didn't suspect so many design flaws. Many thanks!
I do love the way that you are so factual and explain things in a way that everyone can understand whilst also being sarcastic and funny with it.
It's amazing how much of this advice also applies to the Mazda 2.2 turbo diesel engine. Thanks so much for the insights guys.
Ford has always had bean counter's
Another amazing video, thanks both.
My Jaguar XJ engine suffered catastrophic failure after 5 years and 35k miles. It was out of warranty but I was lucky, I wrote to JLR's boss at the time and they agreed to 100% fund a replacement engine.
Another issue I've read about elsewhere is oil dilution... Basically, the engine takes your 5W Dumbass and gradually dilutes it with diesel, which makes it even thinner.
With the new engine I'm doing oil and filter changes every 5k miles and I'm a little more cautious with my right foot. I just hope I haven't got a Monday morning crankshaft 😮
Imagine owning a car where you can't even drive it properly and treat it like a princess 🤦♂️. No way would i ever buy one of these ticking time bombs.
What an epic video. Your presentation skills, technical knowledge and ability to explain it IN ANOTHER language is fantastic. Then add in your humour and your lovely wife's fantastic support, the result is glorious. I can't wait to watch some more and learn lots.
I must agree with others, this was a brilliant video, the best yet. I liked the design history part, the explanation of common failures and what you can do to minimise the problems. In all I loved it, 10/10!
😊🙏🙋♀️Vera
That was one of the best videos I’ve seen in a long time. I’m no engineer, but thanks to both of you I feel like I could grasp all the points and I’ve learnt a very great deal. The style and dynamic between you both is amazing! Thank you and I’ll keep watching!
Fascinating!! I have just bought a Disco 4 with 226,000km on the clock. it's not leaking oil....yet! After watching this video I am going to have another glass of Drambuie! I've subscribed!
Wow, what a great point of discussion.
I really appreciated your explanation of the 3.0L Lion engine crankshaft design and failure modes along with your thoughts on possible preventative measures.
I have owned my 2011 Discovery 4 SDV6 since new. The SDV6 engine reliability is an issue that sits uncomfortably in the back of my mind, and given the distances that I travel it has me a little concerned.
Many years ago an old mechanic friend said to me that "new oil is cheap maintenance" and that comment has stuck with me and has been literally applied to every vehicle and motorcycle I have owned, consequently the engine in my D4 has had the benefit of oil and filter changes every 7,500km for the entire life of the vehicle.
The D4 is now approaching 340,000km on the odometer.
I still use the 5W 30 oil in my discovery 4 but and am now wondering about a change to the 5W 40. That said, I am not sure of the benefit given the age of the engine and and the work it has already done? I must now go back and watch your comment on the oil issue!
Anyhow thanks again for your well considered and excellent explanation.
5W-40 is popular in Australia because of the high summer temperatures of up to 45C and it still performs in our winter temperatures eg -7C.
I bought a 2012 Discovery 4 SDV6 (it was in fact one of the press demonstrators for the upgraded car - it appeared in numerous reviews). Absolutely fabulous car, but, with a massive massive but!!! I soon discovered the propensity for the crank to fail. A local indy where I had it serviced always had several of these engines in for rebuild. Not just an occasional one, but always two other three at any one time. And that's just the ones that could be rebuilt - probably one in three that failed. The Indy had no reason to hide problems unlike your average LR dealers. It was with great reluctance that I quickly sold it on, a decision accelerated by the fact that LR's warranty would not cover this mode of failure. Not just a worry unloaded but, as a Land Rover owner for many years, the cause of loss of trust with LR themselves. A potential bullet dodged!
oil change every 5000 km max and your engine will lasts forever !!
In Kosovo we say that there is no bad diesel engine. There is just poor maintained diesel engine. In my village people say that if you want your engine to last long change oil TWICE a year or on maximum 5000Km. Actually Japanese car manufacturers mention that in their manuals (in Japanese web site you could read that). I was stunned when I have discovered that Japanese recommend oil change on non turbo engines driven in harsh condition (city drive, highway drive, driving on salty roads lots of idling etc) oil change interval is 5000Km or maximum 6 months, but on Turbocharged engines the interval is 2500Km or three months. That was insane for me but it seems that Japanese manufacturers are right in order to have trouble free engine operation. Shell did a research and confirm that max interval for engine oil is 200 Engine hours !! So the story of cnaging engine oil every 10000Km or 15000Km is not good for overall engine life.
Kosovo is the poor country with excellent mechanics (not as good as pakistani ones), but at least we are keeping our cars long time. Our favourite is VW Golf Mk 2 1.6 D
Absolutely brilliant !! Outstanding analysis and explanation, and always entertaining. Thank you both very much.
Maybe a second channel as automotive research scientist? Absolutely amazing in depth information on the TDV6. I was lucky and covered 160, 000 miles without this issue. Thanks for listing this video and sharing this essential information, there are a lot of owners who will benefit immensely from your research, on behalf of them thank you.
Similar boat, I had around 220k on mine with no issues on an 08 L320 RRS. Air suspension problems yes, but no engine issues.
Edit: Halfway through the video I believe we always ran 15w-40 fwiw. It's all that was available in full synthetic.
I am from the Caribbean it's hot my buddy uses golf 15w 40 oil no problem. I am looking to get a land rover my self I learn a lot from you guys the best on TH-cam..
Christian, this is the best video on TH-cam about problems on a Ford-LR V6 engine. Thank you very much.
This is probably the best video I have seen analysing issues with an engine - so logical and well explained. Thank you Christian and Vera!
This fabulous engine is also in the Aussie Ford Territory. Which is funny, that car has the worst diesel engine and also the best ever petrol engine. Fun video! :)
Spot On! I was going to say the same thing! My mechanic has replaced the engine in some Territory's 16K AU$ for a second hand engine!
Sounds a lot like Vauxhall - great petrol engines, shitty diesel engines!😄
I've been in the motor trade on the tools for about 34 years now but this video is tremendous on the information, very very few people that have this level of knowledge are willing to share it. brilliant😊
Your passion shines through about these vehicles.
Your amazing in-depth knowledge is truly something to be very proud of.
Unfortunately , I just couldn't commit to buying any lr product.
I havn't the time for all that maintenance.
Keep up the fantastic work 👏 👏👏
The jokes are even better then the technical information delivery process... which is magnificent.
Wunderbar!
Oh well done. That is by far the tech best video you have made. Very informative and yes I learnt a bit about the design ethos, not sure I understood it, but that is for another rabbit hole when I get out of my current warren :) I'm also going to try to remember to not kick it down so hard when I have to do my fast overtakes to change position at work escorting Convois Exceptionnels, but drop 4 or 5 gears with the paddle first. I do sometimes use the paddles to change down before letting the torque rip on fast overtakes, but that's more when I'm driving in manual mode and S with a 20mm suspension drop, in a 'spirited manner' on some beautiful Spanish twisty roads.
Now I have to explain why certain people in the garage trade continue to recommend 5w30. It's the oil LR spec for the UK market. If a garage that a customer pays to service their car uses a different grade than which is specified, and the crank fails, then some customers will blame it on the wrong oil and come back to claim on the garage who did it. If a garagiste goes public on the internet saying to use a different spec oil then there is a possibility that some dumbass could take legal action against them. We know such madness happens. 'he told the world on FaceAche it was ok to put 5w40 in my engine, and he's a professional garagiste, and then 2 days or 2 years later my reved from cold, low oil level engine snapped its crank, so I'm going to sue him because he expressed a professional opinion'.
If I were to take my car for an oil change, (I cannot imagine any circumstance for this :) I would specify in writing what oil to use. Then they're in the clear, and I get the oil I want.
Long ago I did the research on the oil, and like you, found the Citroen specifications. My 2.7 has run on 40 ever since. I've not yet run the 3.0 on it as it's been difficult to find a 40 C1 or C2, but now 5w40 C3 oils are becoming common, and the difference between C1, C2 and C3 is in the soot level and HTHS, with C3 being slightly less in favour of fuel consumption and slightly better in terms of bearing face protection. C2 and C3 oil is slightly sootier than C1 so the DPF needs to regenerate more often which also slightly increases the fuel consumption.
As you so eloquently put it, the tests were designed to reach the conclusion required because the 5w30 gives just enough of a better fuel consumption under test conditions to enable the manufacturer to claim a certain fuel figure, and the engine will probably last the warranty period. The reason for this is to pander to the big leasing companies, as is the ridiculously long oil change interval. The leasing companies are not interested in the car after the 3 or 4 year lease as it's made them their money and they put it out to the 2nd hand market, so they want a minimum of servicing that they have to pay for while being just enough to meet any service requirements for warranty claims.
My advise, as a D3 and D4 owner driver and DIYer is: I prefer to get the best engine protection I can for a reasonable cost. I can live with slightly increased fuel consumption and I care not a jot about the emissions because I don't run the vehicle under strict test conditions to meet a prescribed consumption, and they easily run clean enough to meet the legal emissions limits. 5w40 C3 oils are now coming to the mass market for 3.0 engines with DPF. 5w40 A3/A5 oils have been available for non DPF 2.7s for a long time now. The engine was designed over 20 years ago and the oils specced with the reasons explained above. In the real world, the engine spec remains the same (or gets slacker as seen in the 3.0 workshop manual) and the oil technology continues to evolve. Embrace that, get the best protection you can at a price level you are happy with, but make your own decision, and don't put the blame on someone else if it all goes wrong.
Gruff 2023
"for our Toyota viewers we have to explain what's an engine failure..."
They have plenty don't worry.....all companies have them
unless its my rav4 lol
Well yes..but no. Toyota 3.0 D4D KD-FTV after Euro 3 and higher has piston crack problems.. Thats why i have Mitsubishi Pajero 3.2Di-D.. which has only few minor problems.
Lots of engine failures in Toyota land these days.
@@plenex problem is quite rare. Injectors should be changed after 200k
Some serious information to take in guys and thanks for taking the time to produce these quality video's......biggest bit that gets me is the fact LR wont take responsibility for the failures.
LR didnt manufacture the engines.
And now they're under different ownership and Tata industries which have their own problems don't want to take responsibility for what decisions Ford made before they bought Land Rover in 2008 was it?
@@alexvassilev9586 life is 80 k then,like sealed for life crap bearings
Amazing, I never thought in my life to watch a video on youtube for 40 minutes with interest, and I don't have a TDV6, but a TD5, but I followed a friend with a TDV6 with the crankshaft broken, congratulations for this video, I was ecstatic.
Thanks for the video. I can listen to you all day. All you are putting out here is loads of experience that would take anyone so many years to get. Thanks.
This is an excellent video. It contains many engineering principles which apply equally to cars from other manufacturers.
Incredible video. I own my D3 for 4 years. In the very beginning I performed a preventive maintenence - bearings, sealing, oil pump etc were changed. From then I change the oil every 160 hours (distance per average speed) and it's 5w40 certainly
That was an outstanding video. Very informative and your examples and explanations made it very easy to understand. Thank you for the effort that both of you put in to these productions. 👍🏻👌🏻
That was awesome!!! Going to change from 5W30 to 5W40 immediately! I love my L4 but the engine problems scares me. Understand that it could break anyway but I will follow your 3 recommendations and hope...
First off, Happy New Year. I am new (last 6 months) to the channel, but I never miss an episode and always look forward to each one. As much for the knowledge as for the humor while informing us! I've also gone back through the catalog and viewed many others. Which brought me to this one! I have a 2016 L405 TDv6 that has 144K miles on it! It has been maintained properly from day one and never presented a real problem of any kind (I know, amazing!) I should say here that I live in the US and this is my 5th LR/RR since 1998. I've owned Gen 2 and Gen 3s as well as a an LR3 Disco. I bought this Gen 4 because I wanted the diesel and they don't bring the V8 to our shores, so I bought it without realizing I had just rolled the dice! In any event two things have cropped up. One was a small coolant line in the rear of the engine and the second is an apparent oil leak in the same general area that causes some burn off and light smoking under the hood! I'm thinking maybe the turbocharger oil feed pipe is leaking at the flexible part and running down the pipe and dripping onto the manifold? I also had a look at the knuckles. They seem fine and there's no recall notice of any kind here, so I may need to dig deeper and her sure they are sound!
There is a recall in the US, check out this video here th-cam.com/video/KSjzIL1FE9k/w-d-xo.htmlsi=N-KffBVht0wQD4tQ Happy New Year 🤗🙏🙋♀️Vera
An absolutely, brilliantly presented, thoroughly researched, most informative video you guys!
A really great piece of work, most definitely will be watching this one a few times over, as it's too much for my non-engineer brain to capture all in one sitting.
As a UK Automotive Engineer, I also 100% agree with your assessment of the LR V6 diesel engine, I would suggest that the diesel Injection system also needs to be in good health to ensure engine reliability. The Common Rail Injectors need to be calibrated and balanced to ensure that no engine cylinder runs at higher combustion pressure than the other cylinders. Especially important is the use of Good Quality Diesel fuel Shell, BP or similar which is to the EN 590 spec and add a diesel fuel additive like 2-EHN to improve the cetane number of the fuel which improves combustion, emissions, power and reliability.
Good Video ..............👍
Thank you. Luckily the Diesel quality in Germany is quite good. Christian
How should one go about calibrating the injectors?
@@shughumphrey Any Diesel pump injector specialist Like Merlin UK will check injectors and ensure they are spraying the correct pattern and quantity of fuel. 3.0 d v6 injectors have a calibration code label on each injector that must be coded into the engine ecu.
@@shughumphrey Manufacturer recommends calibration at every 100000km.
fascinating discussion, love the detail. The engineering analysis of the crankshaft design and lubrication requirements is invaluable to engine longevity for anyone how has a TDV6. Great work.
If the V6 diesel (AJD-V6) 2.7 or 3.0 engine has a concern with oil pressure, which may appear as a rough running sound, then before going to a bigger problem (e.g. bearings), you should check the condition of the outlet valve at the bottom of the oil filter leg. The exhaust valve is a rubber cone that is attached to a metal cylinder that acts as a spring with only a small nut. When the filter rises up, the valve opens, causing the oil in the filter to drain into the sump and not around the engine.
You should always press the new filter directly onto the leg and not onto the plastic cover, because when rotating in place, the filter can easily be swept by the lateral force onto the bottom of the valve leg, which is only resting on the nipple. (and the nipple is the one that touches the filter first)
An open exhaust valve wastes about 1/3 of the oil pressure, which is not a good thing at all.
The rubber valve may also harden from the wrong oils, causing it to fall out of place on its own when the filter is changed.
Great video thanks. Having stripped down a few engines in the past I am well aware of oil delivery problems & wear etc, I also never floored my D3 from any revs :) Luckily I was a member of the LR3 website & learned about the auto gearbox linkage issue as well. That linkage will sieze up & immobilse the box. I read a few people have been subject to gearbox stripdowns when that stuck linkage was just the issue.
Brilliant video. Have a D4 and because it’s under warranty I’m stuck with getting it serviced at the dealer. However I run it for a few thousand km on the 5w dumbass before doing another interim service myself and change to 5w40 magnatec. Have done a lot of research myself but the internet is a hard place to find the truth. Really interesting to see that one main bearing feeds two others but essentially cuts off half the time! Very sobering! You’ve earned your Patreon fee this month 😂. Keep up the good work
Great analysis. I've often wondered why they don't design an electric pre-pump arrangement for start-up on all engines. My old BMW bike is designed with a flooded pump and very low oil filter and the engine lasts for ever on any old oil.
Just read your comments about a pre-start lubrication pump. I made the same sudjustion, but I wouldn't want ant rubber hoses. Solid pipe, stainless or copper, as you wouldn't want lubrication hose to bust. Even if it was a manual pump, for extreme cold starts, or been sitting a long time with no oil in top end.
I can remember my aunt in the late 60s religously hand cranking her Austin A30 for 5 turns before getting in and starting it as normal🤔
The only thing I can say is "Awesome video".... thank you Christian from someone that's been driving Land Rovers since 1977
Hey, me too - the irony is that my D3 TDV6 has been the most reliable of all of them!! That, and the fact that the D4 and subsequent models are too sophisticated and bling, is why I've kept it....
Great presentation both super informative and entertaining. Love your synergy and humor.
Note, I have the TD5 engine in my LR. It's absolutely marvellous and now 23 years of service life to date.
Hi Christian and Vera. Brilliant delivery on a sore subject. I'm looking to change my Range Rover to a D4, i.e. from petrol to diesel. Very worrying subject, but is it possible to minimise the main bearing oil delivery problems at least, by trying the following:
1. Relocating the oil filter to a lower position using a remote filter?
2. Using a top cap main bearing in place of the bottom cap? I suspect they use different materials, but at least the channel provides oil to the bottom of the crank.
3. Use a regulated electric oil pump to pre-charge the oil galleries. That then raises the oil pressure to near 1 bar at engine start up and idle.
Excellent video on the technical aspects of the Ford (and LR) V6 diesel. In regard to oil grade and the current, nearly standardized, spec for 10w-30 or even 10w-20, I wholeheartedly agree. Both my BMWs and Volvos (still looking for a decent Disco 3 here in Nova Scotia) go thru that same "noise" about approved grades in their owner's manuals, showing 10w-40 only as an extreme service application. I use, and have used, 10w-40 religiously over the last 15 years or so and have achieved 300K+ kms on multiple engines (all petrol). On all these engines, I have had no noticeable oil loss due to wear, no smoke, no plug deposits, etc. So absolutely 10w-40 or 0w-40 is the way to go on nearly all modern automotive engines.
BTW, is Christian the same Christian Muth that holds a dozen plus patents involving balancing of rotating shafts? If so, you might want to mention that in these kinds of vids. I've been around car stuff for over 50 years now, and it is clear to me that Christian can speak to these subjects with authority. But to some these days, they need to "see the paperwork". Anyway, great content! Thank you.
Another interesting and very informative episode! Thank you Christian and Vera 👏🏼
Watched barely 2 mins….loved the delivery, humour and creativity of the video so much that instantly liked, saved and subscribed!!
I'm afraid there is one huge error in Christans analysis being that since these engines were all built at Ford's diesel plant at Bridgend in South Wales the problem is rugby, not football.
🙏 thank you 🙏. And was it the Monday production which got effected? I was speculating there too… 🤔 Christian
Thank you both for an informative and entertaining video. Having worked for a subsidiary of a German Automotive company for many years I also came across instances where Management Directives overruled design principles! Christian sounds very much like my old works colleagues, which makes the video more enjoyable. Oil technology is very interesting and not just about SAE grades. Different oil manufacturers/blenders use different friction modifiers and other additives which makes a difference between brand performance. Castrol is one of the best, in my opinion.
Great video keep them coming. Love the references to what we need for our mall crawlers down here in Australia.
Very interesting talk about the Ford Lion. Although scary, the reasons for an engine failure applies to any make of engine, with a second hand vehicle you never know how it's been treated. Shame Ford didn't spend a bit more time on it 😉. look forward to next Sunday, take care.
In the past, I really wanted a LR4 but after finding out how many problems they have, I am glad I never got the chance to buy one. High blood pressure galore, and stress by the score with this heap would have been the case. Nice vehicle design, capable vehicle, but crap. I ended up going to a Toyota Landcruiser, and missed out on a big, big smorgasbord of failure and expense. Fate stopped me making the worst mistake I could make. Fate was truly kind to me. Fantastic video, and exemplary explanation of Ford's big R&D flop.
I don't have a Land Rover but as a DIY mechanic i enjoyed the in depth explanations, instant subscriber 👍🏾
This analysis is superb. Thank you
Lets not forget the fact that you guys are the goal for being a couple. Vera you are hilarious as ever 🤣🤣🤣🤣
We must chat .... I was the lubrication component engineer at ford during the batch 1 development phase of the lion v6, after the concept was handed over from Aachen. I was responsible for the oil pump, oil filter, pickup pipe and dipstick and a good friend of mine was the system engineer at the time. Also that whole thing about the idler boss on the pump body ...
Please shed more light here, would love to get more insights on these design flaws.
@@arnoldoduor Well that's just the thing, they're not seen as flaws at the time, they're issues to resolve and compromises to be made as best as we can with the evidence we can get, to get to a released design which meets all the requirements. The tensioner boss looked quite different at batch 1 when I was responsible and the FEA at the time showed it would work, based on the loads from the primary drive team.
You find my email in the channel description. Thanks for your comment. Christian
There is just poor maintained diesel engine. In my village people say that if you want your engine to last long change oil TWICE a year or on maximum 5000Km. Actually Japanese car manufacturers mention that in their manuals (in Japanese web site you could read that). I was stunned when I have discovered that Japanese recommend oil change on non turbo engines driven in harsh condition (city drive, highway drive, driving on salty roads lots of idling etc) oil change interval is 5000Km or maximum 6 months, but on Turbocharged engines the interval is 2500Km or three months. That was insane for me but it seems that Japanese manufacturers are right in order to have trouble free engine operation. Shell did a research and confirm that max interval for engine oil is 200 Engine hours !! So the story of cnaging engine oil every 10000Km or 15000Km is not good for overall engine life.
Kosovo is the poor country with excellent mechanics (not as good as pakistani ones), but at least we are keeping our cars long time. Our favourite is VW Golf Mk 2 1.6 D
Brilliant video! Knowledge, experience and great humour! Also hello from South Africa!
Absolutely brilliant, sat here chuckling at the reference to the Monday morning syndrome. As a retired life long engineer I can relate to every instance of the accountants or marketing managers ‘re engineering ‘ what already was a crap design into a disaster waiting to happen. We also had anachronism for all makes of machines, Ford was fix or repair daily...
Such a thorough analysis... I can listen to you for ages!
In my honest opinion the correlation between crankshaft failures in TDV6 2.7L and how much towing was done with the rig is linear.
Recently people are ditching the TDV6 in favor of the TDV8s (from range rover sport/vouge) I'd love to hear comparable analysis between these two if possible of course.
Out of curiosity, have you considered adding an additional auxiliary oil pump which sprays oil before first cracking of the engine ?
George, is that to say owners swapping out broken 2.7’s for the V8 ?
If so, that sounds very interesting, and most likely a complicated job.
I own a tdv8 (rrs) and it stills runs as a dream. Owned it for 5yrs now and still no problems with the engine to date. I did had to change the rubber pads for the cornering bar, and a wheel bearing but that’s about it.
Fuel consumption is not higher then a tdv6 imo.
@James Rebbechi yep. I am particularly more in favor of the M57 but the tdv8 has less things to modify in order to fit in
@Deceuninck I am almost 90% sure that the V8 doesn't have the starvation problem that the V6 has because the V8 is only fitted longtitdal in the RRS only. Apart from that if/when I put the V8 I will show off for sure :D
@@georgidaskalov8389 lol I've the 4.2 Supercharged V8 petrol and I show off every time I start it up !
That engine MR LR works very well in the Peugeot and Citroen C6 , of which I both owned for ten years, but as you say when it is in a saloon body car the stresses on the crank and the demands are almost negligible
Just saying... If you would like to do a full series of lectures breaking down the D3/4 designs and engine construction, I would pay good money to see it! Truly amazing job. This level of detail whilst remaining consumable is a rare thing these days.
Thank you both!
You want to know more? There's a guy near Cardiff that has a you tube channel called 'piston broke' where he clearly explains the high number of crankshaft breakages on these and does a full rebuild on one for a customer.Shows full removal,rebuild and reinstall.
I really cannot believe LR TIME only has 83k subscribers.
That is one of best and informative videos about engines I have ever seen. You have a great talent to explain complex problems.
Brilliant video, very informative and easy to understand. Thank you!
Bravo, well put! Wonder if LR knew about this form the start on. My early Discovery3 would often sound one of it’s confusing ‘bongs’ just after starting, if the oil pressure had any delay in extinguishing the warning light. Annoyingly, no message ever appeared to say why the ‘bong’. I suspected it related to slow oil pressure and varied with oil changes. It had had the oil pump replaced but it was very fussy on the oil used. There may have been a software upgrade to remove this feature as I haven’t heard anyone mentioning it. The engine never failed, to my knowledge, but I traded it in at 110kmiles for its weekly attention seeking fault routine. Great truck, but their engineering suffers from accountant interference.
Veras car also has the misterious extra bong on start. No clue why. We looked at everything. Christian
Brilliant analysis Christian !!!
Everyone in Europe should use 5w 40 c3 , like you explained in a previous video , and i would recommend that you change the oil & filter atleast twice per year , with 5000 or 6000 miles max between each oil service service .
Great video
100% ^^^^
This is just outstanding, easily your best video ever.
You've just completely cured my desire to replace my 300,000km (still smooth) 4.4v8 with a late model sdv6.
My problem now is finding a vehicle that remotely compares to the comfort and practicality of the DISCO 3/4.
With a 4.4 V8, you don'T have these problems. 😅👍🙋♀️Vera
@@Vera_and_Christian but you have A HUGE FUEL consumption ! Like Scania R500. Prove me wrong
@@abdulaiabdurahmani2913 The purchase price + servicing costs means about 300,000km of driving before break even. it's not like diesel is free!
I learnt a lot..key lesson..don’t floor your vehicle when you start it from cold..
The fuel economy is a key figure in design. More bearings gives higher stiffness and also higher dynamic friction. The "extra" bearings takes up space so the distance between pistons goes up and the weight for the engine block, which again cause lower fuel economy. Also modern engine you see in Audi consume a lot of oil due to sloppy piston rings so the the fuel economy can be improved.
Great watch as usual . Land Rover must be embarassed that a you tuber can deduce the failings of their engine . Cannot wait till C & V start looking at the Ingenium engine
I won't buy a Land Rover, it's not practical for my long commute to work but I still found this video fascinating and informative. That's quite an achievement by you two - entertaining and educating someone who has no real connection the subject matter. Great video.
I loved your Analysis of the Failed every other day TDV6 engine. You are a credit to TH-cam and Auto industry.
Sir , you are great. There is no words to describe how much I admire your dedication towards the LR 3& 4 engines. Every detail are meticulously explained . I don’t understand why the LR managers and engineers plus the entire company test this crankshaft is strong enough to last . I can believe that they were totally ignorant of the fact that this will break. They are irresponsible and should be sued for their failure and negligence. They did not even bother to resolve the problem and recall the vehicles to replace the engines.
I love this channel. I am a mechanical development engineer (non automotive environment) but can completely relate to the management pressures that the engineers are forced to work within. Very good points raised about the simulation software (FEA) too - Garbage In / Garbage out. Excellent review of major concern points. I did some homework before I bought my Range Rover Sport - decided the TDV6 was problematic and avoided it. I went with the 3.6 litreTDV8, oil change every 5000 miles or less. A 2008 car - still going strong and brilliant to drive. Keep up the good work.
I would like that engine too but it’s not available in the Discovery 3 or 4. Christian
I had a 2010 RR Sport TDV8 from new, for almost six years. A cracker of an engine and never had any problems. I test drove the TDV6 (3.0L) and TDV8 (3.6L) before purchase. The TDV6 with its twin sequential turbo set-up just had more lag and bogged down in low revs compered to the parallel twin turbo on the TDV8 that "jumped" out of corners. I had done research beforehand (being an Engineer I had to), and read about the issues with the V6 before purchase but the V8 just drove better and just could not beat that glorious V8 sound!
Great video! It was nice seeing how enthusiastic and knowledgeable couple you are. You have earned a subscriber!
I wish you could have a look at Volvo’s B5254T4 engine which was installed in S60R and V70R cars. It would also be interesting to see what the new VEA engines are hiding in Volvo’s new line of engines…
Thanks.
Sorry, going to have to nominate the Ingenium Diesel 2.0L 4 cylinder engine when installed in just about any Land Rover. The D150/180 variants in the original Discovery Sport and Evoque, plus the D240 when used in the Discovery 5.
Even *if* you do regular oil changes i.e. double the recommended number, after as little as 40k miles you may be in trouble with snapped timing chains. Mine now booked for it's chain to be replaced (74k miles) and currently have my fingers crossed that when they do the compression test before they start the work, that it doesn't change from new chain to new engine... It's making the Lion V6 crank snapping lottery look like a worthwhile game!
Love your content and humour, Sunday just wouldn't be Sunday now without LR Time 👏
I agree with this ... the 4cyl Ingenium engine in Jaguar 2015 to 2018 has an appalling failure record
I own the evoque with the D180 ingenium engine and have no option but to do a oil change every 6 months due to oil dilution , its a joke never had such issue on older diesels , don't think I will ever buy another diesel engine due to issues with DPF/EGR and oil dilution its not like we never do long journeys
The issue with the timing chain is more of an issue with the plastic chain guides on early production models being inadequate and breaking up. It has long been rectified on the production line with modified parts which can be retro-fitted to older engines as long as the job is done when the chain becomes noisy but before the component fails and the timing is lost.
The issue with fuel contamination of sump oil is intrinsically linked to the failure of the DPF to regenerate during driving. This was due to a design and installation fault where in transverse engine vehicles, and only those, there was no room to fit the DPF at the exit of the turbocharger due to the bulkhead [firewall] being too close to the engine. This required and eventually got a redesign of the body so that a close coupled DPF could be fitted. End of problem. It was an issue that should have been foreseen before the changing of the old Ford engines for the new Ingenium JLR motors. It is most unfortunate that the same engines that have the timing chain issue also have the DPF/fuel-contamination issue. Avoid that age range of transverse Ingenium engine vehicles like the plague.
@@hedydd2 early fiat/gm diesel cars with DPFs suffered from that issue. You'd think with the knowledge out there that JLR was on to pain putting the DPF so far down the exhaust. Even wrapping the exhaust in heat wrap solves the problem!
@@jimgough8603
They had not thought about the Ingenium when they designed their transverse platform and almost certainly thought they could get away with the remote DPF at least for a while, until the revised body was introduced especially to accommodate the close-coupled DPF. No more issues. That doesn’t help the people stuck with the early models though.
Even as a non Discovery owner I knew about the oil pump issue before watching this video but not the oil starvation issue. Fascinating insight, vielen danke.
Had a '80 400 Ford in a 4x4, blueprinted, but with notorious oil pressure problem by design. A restriction kit to the upper cam gallery saved oil for the mains, and HV trw pump gave me "H" reading even at idle. Hi-Po cam, shaved heads (060), rod reman, ARP fasteners, 9.5:1comp, pol chamb. Blew a few a/t's and axles, but couldn't kill the engine. Truck lasted 150km, even with pedal on the floor most of the time, tach @55c. Ran QS 5W-40 for most of the year. Your design knowledge is spot on. Excellent video!
I wonder if the heads on this engine would allow a volume reduction. They are not known to fail. Good point and idea you mentioned there. Thanks. Christian
@@Vera_and_Christian I wanted the 4 in. stroke no matter what. Attention to detail was everything on heads: valve train shims everywhere, ARP head studs, valve clearances within spec, 290* Engle cam advanced 2.5 deg. (intake shaved too). Bottom end torque was bone jarring.
Volume reduction for the over-size chambers was tricky. Switching to E-petrol minimized cyl press issues at wot, and water/methanol inj at the throttle helped on high spark advance. 3.5k rpm turned 4 x 35" locked tires in mud on 2nd Low gear, the "sweet spot." Other than oiling issues, the engine design was superb and built to last.
Been running 10w40 in my 1st gen discovery (with the rover t-16 4 cylinder petrol) doing oil changes every 6000km, original factory engine running from '93 with 270k km (sat in a field for 10 years too). Only issue with the engine itself was the blown head gasket. Valves, cams, (guess is the crank too) are all with minimal additional wear. They really don't make them like they used to.
Bad Monday morning crankshaft failure! 😂 Love the humor. Here in Australia the Lion 2.7V6 only made it into local cars by 2012. Here they seem to hold up reasonably well. Love the Toyota reference, but even they struggle to make a bulletproof engine (KD series with pistons cracking). However L series, 1HD and 1HZ is king and probably will never be surpassed is reliability and simplicity.
Toyota d4d piston failures were a supplier issue... not engineering design disasters like these lemons!
I’ve got a 2010 D4 with a 2.7.
Great insight into the workings of the auto industry 👏
Hello from NZ! I have the 4.4 Petrol V8 Discovery 3 so most of the engine related issues don’t apply to me but I still watch all of your videos as they’re informative and entertaining, keep up the great work!
Without doubt best forensic on an engine. Very impressive. Clear and to the point. Excellent analysis. Thank you.