Wow now it's documented 1ohm stable (They always ran at 1ohm you just have to be careful).*The New 2500 you have has 50a fuses and the older one has 30a. The Razor is worth every Penny.Thanks for the upload.
Excellent equipment to buy for someone interested in car audio,especially those that want to turn things after you install it followed by dont touch or turn these settings. Glad to see it put those numbers out but such a small power input. Excellent review as always ty sir for sharing Hope you're having a wonderful Sunday 🤞
Not a bad deal. When I got back into car audio 3 or 4 years ago, I would have been all over this. You could do some pretty wild budget builds with these
I have the older version of this amp at least 6 years old on two Polk mm 10s and it gets down. My starting ohm load is like 1.33 and it doesn’t bother the amp at all. My only problem with the amp was the 25 amp fuses were not enough and would blow 1 of hem all the time so I switched them to 30 maybe 40 amp fuses and never had an issue since then and I push it hard for hours on end. They are small little heavy bricks.
I have the older model, well had. Its been through three cars and is currently residing in my sons ride on a few old 8's. Id buy these amps 100x over most sub $100.00 amps. Not only are they decent for the price (regardless of the "max" rating/marketing), they take the abuse of NON-bassheads like no other. If you look at marketplace youll likely see these and Kicker subs all the time in ALL states of condition (mostly horrible). People hate on "Wal-Mart audio" brands, but they are perfect for a person that doesnt need 5,000 watts on every component in their system, and/or the casual bass-heads. The remote isnt great though like someone said in another comment. It being plastic doesnt matter, no matter how much big D or anyone else may complain, its just the pot/control is practically worthless until around 10/11 o'clock position. Also, if by chance you DO destroy it as a casual/unknowing bass enthusiast, Wal-Mart will take it back within reason and /warranty/replace it. Also, if i remember correctly, the "warranty void" sticker doesnt mean anything as of a few years ago. Happy Fathers Day, and keep up with the good dynos!
Back when I first started getting into car audio again I got a skar rp2000 and had to warranty it 3 times cuz they had a permanent protect issue back then. While I waited I got one of these from Walmart to use till I got my other one back. They were 2 ohm stable but I wired to 1 ohm and must have had enough rise cuz it would run non stop no prob. It would get a bit hot, but did the trick. I was pretty impressed! Still returned it tho 😂
How did they warranty it? Did they do repairs on the same amp each time and never fixed the issue? Or did they swap it out and that model amp just had a design flaw?
I've got the slightly older 2-ohm version 2500. The only thing that bugs me is the bass knob sensitivity. All the adjustment is from 9 o'clock to 11 o'clock. I swapped it out for an audio taper 2K and added a 20 ohm resistor so it doesn't completely turn off. That works pretty good, not perfect, but way better than the stock 20K.
Another issue I came across is that it can't really handle more than 6 volts RMS even on the high level input. My sub impedance only drops down to about 3.7 which is well within range. If I turn the volume up the louder bass notes would cut out. I noticed the protect light would come on for second then go out. Adjusting the gain had no effect so I knew it had to be the input. I checked the signal on an oscope to make sure it wasn't getting a clipped. It was fine. My high level output does 8.0 volts clean. It just doesn't like input voltages above 6. I swapped it over from high-level to a 2 volt low level RCA input and it's doing fine.
As these eventually make their way to the used market, other than the 50 amp fuses how can someone tell the difference between the 1 ohm model and the older 30 amp model?
Quite a few good D class amplifiers are getting extremely efficient nowadays. The 10x fuse rating is getting to be a low baller estimate at dynamic levels. But there is skepticism about how accurate the DD1 is. Not questioning your results or integrity.See Parker the bass head latest video. AMM1 almost doubled the numbers at clipping, going by the other metering product. I am keeping my mind open about this.
2500 is made just for walmart its not even on PA website. its a budget banger though. i had the older 2ohm version of the 2500 and ran at 1ohm just fine.
I just wish you would run this amplifier to a lower ohm on your dyno test ? Several people has this amplifier right here and run it to a half a ohm !... I would like to know what can of power it puts out total ! ...
@@stereomojo chances are it’s deff a half bridge if it’s Korean made but they have made FB Amps but it’s rare and I think it’s been quite some time since they did
All i see immediately is its 1 ohm stable,i use the previous one at 2 ohm on 2 r2d2 10in rockfords and its pretty decent for a total of 200 bucks worth of bass
I was thinking that the 5000w SoundXtreme amp was going to be small .... It takes up one side of a loveseat! It's gotta be 2.5 feet long.... The mail lady tried handing it to me out the window.... haha nah wasn't happening
If those 2 thin aluminum based fuses can handle 100 amps of current being only about 16awg each then, 8awg copper is more than a sufficient input lead wire for this amp to perform at its rated potential.
The way i see it, youre showing us if the amp is legit. If it does what the box advertises, then more people will go to walmart and buy it. Youre giving the amp publicicity. No problem if you return it.
@@stereomojo the only thing they changed was the name,fuses it comes with and the ability to be stable at 1 ohm. But like I said mine start at 1.33 or something like that below 2 and it works fine but with the 25 amp fuses I blew two of them both the same one in the amp in like 5 minutes for each one. I put two bigger ones in I had and it was fine and made me happier about the purchase knowing the old rule of fusing and power. I bought the amp on an emergency when the one I was using took a crap during a road-trip. Mine was really old and a friend gave it to me so this amp was an upgrade but the little Walmart I stopped at had only couple options and I literally chose this amp over the others because of price to weight of box ratio. At the time there was no info at all on the actual output and I knew it wasn’t 2500 but it was heavy. Let me tell you what when I opened the box and saw that little thing I was pissed like man I got screwed but I tried it anyways and it was hot out in the parking lot in Texas summer in a 68 Camaro with no a/c so I just wanted to get going so I put it in and glad I did.
Pre-2000's Power Acoustik Made their power. Same company that bought PPI bought Power Acoustik, Now only specific models of PPI makes rated Power and a tad more, the Black Ice amps are fair, and decent Power for the price.
@djkeys415s they really don't need to what? Make stated power? Sure they do CEA 2006 is a compliance act, if the box has that Label it must pass advertised numbers or what is stated in the manual. Manufacturers need to start being held accountable just as everyone else. If that label isn't on the box then it's just False advertisement.
I don’t understand why monoblock dynos take up 90+% of the spaces’ videos. Ya gotta do what the majority approves of. Hit the like and subscribe button!
@@stereomojo I’d like to see more more of 6 channel amps. I may be different. I love to find ways to put lots of speakers in many places in to a vehicle. I’m also more SQ than SPL.
@@stereomojo there may be things I don’t understand. I was under the impression that resistors are added to the channels not being connected to the dyno. Giving a more realistic work on all channels.
Glad it makes "rated power", but naming it 1.2500 and saying on the box its 2500w is still misleading and shady. It shows their "quality" and target consumer. Pro tip: never buy a product that list "Max Power" on its packaging.
Wow now it's documented 1ohm stable (They always ran at 1ohm you just have to be careful).*The New 2500 you have has 50a fuses and the older one has 30a. The Razor is worth every Penny.Thanks for the upload.
Thanks for the support!
great video! and thanks for using SMD products! I really appreciate you for that!
Wow, what an honor! Thanks Steve!
Excellent equipment to buy for someone interested in car audio,especially those that want to turn things after you install it followed by dont touch or turn these settings.
Glad to see it put those numbers out but such a small power input.
Excellent review as always ty sir for sharing
Hope you're having a wonderful Sunday 🤞
Yes, very true! Thanks UN!
Congratulations on the 2 years & happy Father's Day! 👏🏼👏🏼🤘🏻
Thanks Chris!
Great vid , and Happy Father's day !!!
Thanks WD! Happy Father’s Day!
Happy father day man, love your videos! God speed!
Thanks Chicago! Thanks for the support!
Keep up the great work ..God bless you and your family ❤
Thanks for the support Marco!
Not a bad deal. When I got back into car audio 3 or 4 years ago, I would have been all over this. You could do some pretty wild budget builds with these
Yeah, it’s actually good power for the money.
I like the wire protection. Perfect for under the seat..
That’s true. Those end pieces would do a good job of protecting the wires. Good point! Thanks!
Very cool 😎! Test those Hyanker under seat subs!!!
@@tatialo37 thanks Ruben! That would be fun!
I had one of these on my c109 motorcycle.Nice small amp.
Oh wow! That’s pretty cool!
I have the older version of this amp at least 6 years old on two Polk mm 10s and it gets down. My starting ohm load is like 1.33 and it doesn’t bother the amp at all. My only problem with the amp was the 25 amp fuses were not enough and would blow 1 of hem all the time so I switched them to 30 maybe 40 amp fuses and never had an issue since then and I push it hard for hours on end. They are small little heavy bricks.
That’s awesome. I love to see amps that are built tough!
I have the older model, well had. Its been through three cars and is currently residing in my sons ride on a few old 8's. Id buy these amps 100x over most sub $100.00 amps. Not only are they decent for the price (regardless of the "max" rating/marketing), they take the abuse of NON-bassheads like no other. If you look at marketplace youll likely see these and Kicker subs all the time in ALL states of condition (mostly horrible).
People hate on "Wal-Mart audio" brands, but they are perfect for a person that doesnt need 5,000 watts on every component in their system, and/or the casual bass-heads. The remote isnt great though like someone said in another comment. It being plastic doesnt matter, no matter how much big D or anyone else may complain, its just the pot/control is practically worthless until around 10/11 o'clock position. Also, if by chance you DO destroy it as a casual/unknowing bass enthusiast, Wal-Mart will take it back within reason and /warranty/replace it.
Also, if i remember correctly, the "warranty void" sticker doesnt mean anything as of a few years ago.
Happy Fathers Day, and keep up with the good dynos!
Man, what a great comment! I agree with everything you said! Happy Father’s Day!
Are Power Acoustik amps worth the chance to try them? I have seen a bunch of product reviews and people say PA is trash
This amp appears to be an awesome budget banger. 1000 watts for 98 bucks at my local Walmart. I'd like to get 2 of them to push 2 12 inch subs.
Back when I first started getting into car audio again I got a skar rp2000 and had to warranty it 3 times cuz they had a permanent protect issue back then. While I waited I got one of these from Walmart to use till I got my other one back. They were 2 ohm stable but I wired to 1 ohm and must have had enough rise cuz it would run non stop no prob. It would get a bit hot, but did the trick. I was pretty impressed! Still returned it tho 😂
How did they warranty it? Did they do repairs on the same amp each time and never fixed the issue?
Or did they swap it out and that model amp just had a design flaw?
Why is fraud funny to you?
Returning it doesn't necessarily mean fraud. There are all kinds of reasons justifiable to return an item as long as it is within the return window.
@@Dingleberry1856 oh jeez 🤦♂️
@JasonWW2000 they kept swapping them. Eventually I got one that worked and still got it to this day. Haven't used it in like 3 or 4 yrs tho lol.
I've got the slightly older 2-ohm version 2500.
The only thing that bugs me is the bass knob sensitivity. All the adjustment is from 9 o'clock to 11 o'clock.
I swapped it out for an audio taper 2K and added a 20 ohm resistor so it doesn't completely turn off. That works pretty good, not perfect, but way better than the stock 20K.
Another issue I came across is that it can't really handle more than 6 volts RMS even on the high level input.
My sub impedance only drops down to about 3.7 which is well within range. If I turn the volume up the louder bass notes would cut out. I noticed the protect light would come on for second then go out. Adjusting the gain had no effect so I knew it had to be the input. I checked the signal on an oscope to make sure it wasn't getting a clipped. It was fine. My high level output does 8.0 volts clean.
It just doesn't like input voltages above 6. I swapped it over from high-level to a 2 volt low level RCA input and it's doing fine.
Hmmm, that’s interesting. Thanks Jason!
As these eventually make their way to the used market, other than the 50 amp fuses how can someone tell the difference between the 1 ohm model and the older 30 amp model?
I searched for this amp, found it on walmart app but its whowing old version still.. thinking maybe they havent updated specs??
Quite a few good D class amplifiers are getting extremely efficient nowadays. The 10x fuse rating is getting to be a low baller estimate at dynamic levels. But there is skepticism about how accurate the DD1 is. Not questioning your results or integrity.See Parker the bass head latest video. AMM1 almost doubled the numbers at clipping, going by the other metering product. I am keeping my mind open about this.
Hey ! I cant find this model for 1ohm stable model.. though rz1 2500d shows 2ohm stable on their website too. Where did you get it ?
@@smopsaz I got it at my local WM
2500 is made just for walmart its not even on PA website. its a budget banger though. i had the older 2ohm version of the 2500 and ran at 1ohm just fine.
Hmmm, that’s interesting
I did also. 2yrs no problem
ive got the same amp and mine only says 4 or 2ohm stable so whats up with that, its the rzr1-2500d
I just wish you would run this amplifier to a lower ohm on your dyno test ? Several people has this amplifier right here and run it to a half a ohm !... I would like to know what can of power it puts out total ! ...
Yeah, I don’t do that so much anymore. I’ve blown a few doing that. The last one cost me a little over $400 out of my pocket.
What model skars are those and what is it at two ohm cause I have my skars with this amp at series parallel for 2 omhs
@@stormtrooperjetta9585 they are Skar SDRs. They’re dual 4, so 1 ohm, parallel parallel
@@stereomojo so there the sdr1x12d2
@@stormtrooperjetta9585 no, mine are the d4
2300..had 25×2 fuses
That looks like a single inductor which makes it a half bridge amp.
Oh wow, that would be impressive if it’s actually a half bridge.
It's half bridge. Same internals as the soundstream Picasso Nanos I believe
@@stereomojo chances are it’s deff a half bridge if it’s Korean made but they have made FB Amps but it’s rare and I think it’s been quite some time since they did
@6:48 that amp looks exactly like a vhs tape (vcr) that's crazy
I have some amplifiers you can test if you want, some .very intriguing ones.
Cool! What do you have? You can send me an email to stereomojo@yahoo.com if you’d rather communicate that way.
All i see immediately is its 1 ohm stable,i use the previous one at 2 ohm on 2 r2d2 10in rockfords and its pretty decent for a total of 200 bucks worth of bass
I was thinking that the 5000w SoundXtreme amp was going to be small .... It takes up one side of a loveseat! It's gotta be 2.5 feet long.... The mail lady tried handing it to me out the window.... haha nah wasn't happening
That’s funny. Do you have the 5k monoblock?
If those 2 thin aluminum based fuses can handle 100 amps of current being only about 16awg each then, 8awg copper is more than a sufficient input lead wire for this amp to perform at its rated potential.
Yeah, I’m sure you’re right. Especially if the length of wire isn’t ridiculously long.
Yea the other version was 2 ohm stable but ppl ran that at 1 ohm anyways
I wonder if they made any changes?
Anyone think this would be too much for p1s
What’s the rms rating on those? Also, how many ohms are they?
The way i see it, youre showing us if the amp is legit. If it does what the box advertises, then more people will go to walmart and buy it.
Youre giving the amp publicicity. No problem if you return it.
I’m sure you’re right about that. Free advertising for them. I’ve got it on MP, but if it would’ve blown, I would’ve taken it back.
They been 1 ohm stable !!!!
none of these were 1 ohm except the 3500.1d
I only ran the 2500.@1ohm not the 2300
Same as the 2300 inside.
Yeah, that’s what I was wondering
@@stereomojo the only thing they changed was the name,fuses it comes with and the ability to be stable at 1 ohm. But like I said mine start at 1.33 or something like that below 2 and it works fine but with the 25 amp fuses I blew two of them both the same one in the amp in like 5 minutes for each one. I put two bigger ones in I had and it was fine and made me happier about the purchase knowing the old rule of fusing and power. I bought the amp on an emergency when the one I was using took a crap during a road-trip. Mine was really old and a friend gave it to me so this amp was an upgrade but the little Walmart I stopped at had only couple options and I literally chose this amp over the others because of price to weight of box ratio. At the time there was no info at all on the actual output and I knew it wasn’t 2500 but it was heavy. Let me tell you what when I opened the box and saw that little thing I was pissed like man I got screwed but I tried it anyways and it was hot out in the parking lot in Texas summer in a 68 Camaro with no a/c so I just wanted to get going so I put it in and glad I did.
@@Thumper68 lol! I know what you mean about the size of it. I was surprised when I opened the box. They’re smaller than they look in videos.
Got to use your EARS AND BRAIN..and you will be ok!!!!
No power Acoustic amp has ever made rated power
That’s a shame
This one did. 1,000 watts while only rated at 900.
Pre-2000's Power Acoustik Made their power.
Same company that bought PPI bought Power Acoustik, Now only specific models of PPI makes rated Power and a tad more, the Black Ice amps are fair, and decent Power for the price.
They realy dont need to
@djkeys415s they really don't need to what? Make stated power? Sure they do CEA 2006 is a compliance act, if the box has that Label it must pass advertised numbers or what is stated in the manual.
Manufacturers need to start being held accountable just as everyone else. If that label isn't on the box then it's just False advertisement.
Dont think they changed the amp just the box
the old 2500 only did 630 rms
@@charlieknoll1269 not @1ohm you mean the2300
it's half bridge Korean not full bridge. I was eating for someone to do this amp. :)
Wow, I didn’t expect it to be a half bridge! Thanks Johnny! Where you been lately?
I don’t understand why monoblock dynos take up 90+% of the spaces’ videos. Ya gotta do what the majority approves of. Hit the like and subscribe button!
Yeah, true. They’re my favorite to do, but I like to see other stuff too. Like 2ch and 4ch. What do you like to see the most?
@@stereomojo I’d like to see more more of 6 channel amps. I may be different. I love to find ways to put lots of speakers in many places in to a vehicle. I’m also more SQ than SPL.
@@Dominancelogistics that’s pretty cool. I wish I had enough amm1s to do a multi channel like that. That would be awesome!
@@stereomojo there may be things I don’t understand. I was under the impression that resistors are added to the channels not being connected to the dyno. Giving a more realistic work on all channels.
@@Dominancelogistics they are, but they are also added to the channels that are being tested. All channels loaded down the same way.
2300 did bout 700
Yeah, I believe that’s about what it does
Glad it makes "rated power", but naming it 1.2500 and saying on the box its 2500w is still misleading and shady. It shows their "quality" and target consumer.
Pro tip: never buy a product that list "Max Power" on its packaging.
Agreed! Thanks Mark!