listening and watching your description of detail about how you were able to avoid dropping the oil pan was the best part. I am beginning a cam and lifter change tomorrow on a 2011 ram 1500 4WD that has a bad cam lobe on cyl #3 and I was wishing there was a workaround of dropping the pan which I was dreading. Your extra detail (that nobody else mentioned anywhere) about turning the oil pump clockwise slightly allowing pickup tube bolt access was golden. You get the golden buzzer $$$$$$$$$$#$$$$$$$$$#############$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$###################### Great video
great video well explained I like how you laid out the parts on the table and clearly explained the extraction of the parts and bolts and the timing excellent job a bit of advice get better lighting thanks man
Good Video. Saved me much time. I was considering pulling oil pan on RAM 1500 to get the cam out. It occurs to me this technique may also work on a Chevy LS motor as well. Nearly the exact same setup with the oil pump.Again. Great vid.
Excellent video! Exact same catastrophic engine failure (cam lobe & lifter) and symptoms on #3 cylinder on my '09 Durango Hemi LTD 4WD, 103K odometer, meticulously maintained, full synthetic oil & filter changes every 3K miles, I am the only owner after the owner of a Dodge dealership in Lansing, Michigan, drove it for 9 months. Solution: About $9K out of pocket for R & R with remanufactured Jasper long block engine with 3 year/100K mile warranty, with all new accessories (water pump, hoses, etc.). Both shops I conferred with stated that you need to thoroughly flush the engine, replace the old oil pump, replace or professionally flush the intake manifold & verify with camera, replace any external oil cooler & plumbing, all new bearings, etcetera, etcetera.... must get all the metal shavings out of the engine and all accessories and oil system plumbing in order to really do it right. Dodge was zero help, refused to acknowledge the problem, and even refused my request to just sell me a new replacement hemi crate engine at cost!
Yes, ideally what you did was best. It also took 9k to do it that way. I was willing to risk $500 in parts and 10 hours of my labor time. Would I do a cam swap without a full teardown for a customers car, no.
Awsome video man I got a 2011 ram 1500 going to do this and was thinking of putting in a new chain but didn't want to drop the oil pan. This is a big help!
There are three of these engines in our family and all are trucks. No issues as of yet. The trucks range from 40,000 miles up to 130,000 miles. Running zddp additive in the oil... Bumped the viscosity up one also. The engines are definitely quieter. Apparently either you get one of these engines that will go half a million miles or it will start having problems at low mileage. Best thing you can do is run a top-grade synthetic, and put zddp in your oil I think will help. Don't let them idle for very long in hot weather as the oil becomes too thin for good lubrication and protection against heat buildup in the tiny rollers in the roller lifters. I am a die-hard Mopar man 100% oh, but I have read so many of these problems with the 5.7... Chrysler obviously isn't standing back of it which is very sad to me. But if you go online also looking at the other brands and their problems you will see similar BS. So it seems all of us are just going to have to face these issues no matter what brand we have, although rate from go, the 5.7 and 6.4 seem to be the worst of all of them. What a pity
I don't know if it's helping my Hemi's lifespan, but I'm doing 5000 mile oil changes with Royal Purple 5w20. The head is so clean you can eat off it. I don't hear any ticking, it runs smooth, but it's only got 42000 miles. Maybe I'm doing it a favor. It used to tick with conventional oil from the dealer.
Same thing on my 2011 Charger RT. #5 looks just like that. Two other rollers feel like they were about to do the same. That's just on the one side I got the head off. Still have the other head to get off. But I only had the cylinder 5 misfire. I am doing mine with the engine still installed too. Tight fit on sides. I took the driver side motor mount off to jack it up to make space on the right and let it down to make room on the left. Had to remove motor mount just to get the heat shields off the exhaust manifold. Big job, but so much cheaper doing it yourself. Around $1,000 in parts, changing water pump and a idler pulley too. Changing the timing chain too, but very difficult getting the oil pump loose with the pan still on. Hope I can get that bolt back on without removing the pan. Used a magnetic tip to help turn the bolt loose. Got the cam out just now. Hmm, I thought it looked like a coating that wore out, but now that I got even a closer look with my phone camera and zoomed in, I see putting. What would cause putting in the metal? The water pump was working fine. The bearing on that felt really good, but the aluminum looks like abrasive material was eroding bits of the water pump housing. So I had to replace the water pump. The timing chain cover, that the water pump bolts on to, has it too, but not really bad. That part was $450 and out of stock.
T Rock no prob. I don’t even bother pulling the oil pump anymore, I just unbolt it and rotate. It’s a big job, last one I did was 9 hours. I also don’t bother pulling the bumper bar or discharging the air. Pull the water pump, then fan, front bumper and radiator from the engine side. Leave the condensor and other coolers, there is room to wiggle the cam out with it still attached by maneuvering the co sensor a little.
Are there any small ball bearing sets on the 5.7 valve train or oil pump system? Changed the oil and in the bottom of the drain were 2 small steel balls. Theres a possibility that they came from my motorcycle that I changed the oil the night before.. Thanks
See Uncle Tony’s video: Design Flaw in Hemi splash oiling system. At idle no splash is getting to rollers. Use Schaefer oil and zinc additive. Idle as little as possible.
Had a 5.7L Ram come in the shop with ~80k miles, misfire, and it would randomly pour oil smoke out the exhaust. Think it was second cylinder on the drivers side. Checked for spark, fuel, etc had all that. Can't remember what the compression test showed but I ended up taking the valve cover off and cranking it over, no movement of the intake valve. Checked the cylinder deactivation when cruising system, that particular cylinder was not one that was capable of shutting down. The owner took it to the dealer and they put a new engine in it. Then just this week a 5.7L Ram comes in with 305k, burns coolant occasionally. I put a reman Jasper engine in that. I assumed it was a head gasket and at that mileage it wasn't worth putting head gaskets on it. So they can go far sometimes, other times not so much. The second instance was in a 3500 dually.
Interesting on the first one. What year? I had an older 5.7l hemi (2006 Charger)with a misfire/no compression and HEAVY smoke on cylinder 5. Pulled the head, the valve seat dropped and poked holes in that piston. It then spread metal into the intake manifold and around to other cylinders. I put a used engine from a Ram truck into that car. Stripped it down to a long block and it dropped right in without modifications. I had to power wash/flush/soak out the plastic intake manifold to get all the metal out, a new one was around $500 and every used one I found was full of metal like mine. In all honesty, did Dodge/Chrysler make any good gasoline engines in the past 10 years?
The Ram was a 2010 I believe. Man that's some carnage, lots of valve problems with these. Haven't personally seen one that bad but I'm sure I will at some point.
Yeah, overheat a 4.7l or 5.7l and your dropping seats. Vwdarren had a Dodge Magnum he did last summer or the summer before with the same issue, dropped seat/blew a hole in a piston and sent metal everywhere.
Exact same problem on the same cylinder on my 2011 Dodge Ram 1500 Sport 5.7 Hemi, 103,000 miles. No oil coming out of cylinder 5 intake rocker, been seeing TONS of these videos on every non-MDS cylinder, bad Hemi flaw! Chrysler not taking any responsibility for thier poor design. Getting ready to pull and replace the motor with aftermarket parts to try and avoid this issue again!
You can leave the pump guide and tensioner on the car. Set tdc. Loosen the phaser. Mark the chain drop the phaser down. Take the chain off. Install your new cam. Line it back up. Removing the pump is wasted time.
No hablo ingles pero por la descripción del vídeo creo que se trata del mismo problema que tengo en un charger, después de arrancarlo por la mañana a la 10 minutos de calentar se empieza a escuchar un chasquido parecido a los lifters y a medida que pasa el tiempo se hace mas intenso, creo que empezaré a desarmar tal como lo describes. Gracias.
Been with chrysler for a lil over 2 years and gotta say this is very common! We have this problem on our 5.7l, 6.4l, and 6.2l hellcat supercharged, we get to see this at least once a month its sad that chrysler hasnt found a fix to this yet have seen them go out at as lil as 30k miles
So I had a compression issue on my car but my valve seat just gave out cuz the car got hot and I shut it off and turn it back on due to a faulty water pump that I just switched out and now I don't know if my Cam's good or bad but that's good to know about the compression issue the valency I didn't think that would be I thought it was just the lifters
Hello. I just had the exact problem with my 2011 GC 5.7 Hemi. The #5 intake lifter did exact thing. I have a local dealer doing the work. This is the quote I got from him today as I was suppose to pick it up "We have run into a little bit of a problem with the Jeep. We started it up and there was a knocking type noise so we turned it right off. The technician wants to re check the timing, he thinks there might be something wrong with it that might be a tooth or 2 off" Sounds like timing was off. Question is what kind of damage could have they done? BTW - Replaced cam and all lifters with new Mopar dealer parts.
curious where is all that steel that came off the camshaft lobe? why is this not an issue with babott bearings? after putting 1/4lb of hardened metal dust in the oil what could possibly go wrong.
Fantastico,. me estoy preparando para cuando me toque abrir a ver que es la causa del sonido de Mi Ram 3ra generation 5.7 hemi 2006 tiene un sonido de taquetes o buzos botadores como les llamen, suena en el 1er encendido en las mañanas unas veces dura 1 minuto, otras veces no suena,. pero solo hasta que cargan. Que podra ser? que me recomiendan hacer antes q me salga mas caro el daño? si tengo que cambiar arbol de leva y botadores, q me recomiendan hacer aprovechando que ya desarmé el.motor. ojo tiene ya 300 mil km y esta standar.
It's got a cop motor, a three hundred ninety two cubic inch Hemi plant. It's got the cop camshaft, cop lifters, cop pushrods, It's been running 15,400 hours at idle with no oil so the cam lobes are flat. What do you say? Is the new Mopar Hemi crap?
A police car, hemi is worn out in around 100k. Time for a long block. I currently have an awd hemi 2015. It’s a very fun car to drive with the awd and winter tires
Gordon Welcher that’s uncle Tony’s theory. I have seen quite a few police chargers with lower hours, like 6000 total hours with wiped out cams. Rollers on the lifters lock up and do the cams in. Other police cars do the same thing though, like Tahoe’s and caprices. The Ford non turbo 3.7l holds up pretty well engine wise
@@mph5896 Thats where I got this from. It is true it is his theory only. What else do you think it could be? The Bluesmobile with the 440 probably doesn't have this problem but is doesn't have roller lifters.
It’s just a hypothesis he came up with. Nothing to back it up. He could be correct, or it could be a lifter manufacturing issue, poor design, or just use from high amount of hours. Or something else?
Just did a 6.4 cam swap in our '09 Charger. Same price cam as 5.7, 82.00. Dirt cheap! hopefully your bearings are ok, please post an update of your status.
I was quite surprised how cheap the cam was, I paid $65 for a new OEM one. Its all back together and runs/drives perfectly. I have over 1000 miles on it.
This was 5 years ago. I have since done them differently. Bumper reinforcement does not need to come out and condenser can be moved to get the cam out with the lines attached.
Its an 8 year old truck. Dodge warranties the truck for a certain period of time. If the warranty runs out and you fail to buy a new one all repair costs are your responsibility. Dodge has 0 responsibility to fix your truck outside of warranty even if its a common problem.
Twoleggedkumulava not understanding that last sentence, but you are right about Chrysler knowing about design flaw in that motor, better quality lifters and cam would go a long way to restore customer confidence, or we can go to another manufacturer
@@firebreathinggarage2117 No, I was not concerned with metal shavings in the oil pan. Its a slower wear process creating finite metal particles that are picked up by the oil filter. My opinion is engine replacement with oil cooler replacement would be best practice.
@@mph5896 yes most of the wear would be fine metal, but along the edge of the lifter cutting the valley out in the cam lobe, on the sides of the lifter which leaves long slivers of metal that fall of the cam lobe. Hope your works ends well. The oiling on the cam of these engine's is terrible almost noon existent at low Rpms.
you should always be concerned. Maybe use a spray wand and clean it out from the hole, flush and refill... The dealer MUST drop the pan. They require it, but the problem is the lifter quality and mds/vvt (high lift). Thankfully the incidence gets smaller and smaller as years go up, they got it wrapped up in 18 it looks like. Seems like 11--14 was the bad years. th-cam.com/video/PAuNSYqOQjk/w-d-xo.html
Hi guys, when engine rebuilders rebuild their engines they use a ZINK additive with the oil to prevent premature failure. Why not try and use oil with zink additive as standard oil when driving??
2012 ram 1500 LH pump doesn't turn. The chain guide is longer than the one in the video making it imposable to remove without the pump coming off (Tensioner came off easy) and the pickup tube is keeping the pump from turning the correct way in order to remove the pickup tube. I can almost get the pump to turn far enough but the bolt hits the oil pan if I try to pull it out. Good video though was worth the try.
Is it possible to set the crank timing 180 degrees off and still be at the marks? Just did a cam/lifter job, hesitates to start and sounds loud, I did turn it by hand before hand and it turned fine
Excessive idling is the culprit here. You can change your oil every 3k but if you idle many many hours during that 3k miles your oil will be worn out before you get to 3k.
Hmm sounds like my problem! 90k miles on my 03 5.7 Hemi ram.. cyl 5 misfire code, low, kinda rough idle.. to diagnose would u suggest removing the cover & looking for play on the rockers like you mentioned? wonder if it’s even worth it seems to be running kinda OK minus the rough/ chugging idle.
Jonathan Cooksey 08 and down usually don’t wear out camshafts. Saw it once but that was a super high idle hour police car. The 08 and down Hemis drop valve seats, they bang around in the head and poke a hole in the piston. Do a compression check and see what you have to work with
2007 Magnum R/T.. 145,000 miles, just bought it pulls like a freight train.. Just oil changed, now have what sounds like a tap in valve cover pass side. No sound at idle, lightly taps when rpm's go up... 55lbs oil cold at idle, 25-30 at idle hot... Diablo tuner, 91 tune..no codes, runs great... Any ideas? And how were the cam bearings in that car you fixed? thanks
retaining clip that holds 4 lifters each..I wonder if after I put the new lifters in if a can judge by seeing if there's play in the valve still..because if the cam lobe was worn it would still cause the valve not to open fully with new lifter right? my hemi tick is only on cold start
I was able to inspect the cam with it in place once the lifters were pulled. I used a mirror and flashlight. You could also use a bore scope (the camera scope).
If I disable the MDS on my 2014 hemi, will it prolongs the issue from occurring. Reading online that to prevent this you can disable MDS since it a major player in this catastrophic engine seize
+007 007 I believe you will. My personal feeling was from the beginning that this failure was caused by the massive change in thrust forces exerted on the timing chain when the engine changes from 4 cylinder to 8 cylinder operation. Basically when the engine transitions from 4 to 8 it pumps four lifters back up so they begin opening and closing valves. That pressure causes the chain to slap the tensioner which causes the early black plastic tensioners to snap which then allows the chain to slap around even worse which ultimately causes the chain to snap. The replacement guide set is made of white nylon and the guide shoe is now aluminum backed. I don't have a 5.7 but ever since they started having issues I decided to never use MDS in my 6.4 Hemi even though there haven't been any widespread failures in the 6.4's.
+brett248vista excellent reply sir. same here, i've the jeep grand cherokee 5.7 hemi and also non of these issues have been recorded on the jeeps. only 300s, chargers and challengers. but i'm disabling mine, dont want to wait until i discover if the issue is present on jeeps.
+007 007 If you don't have a tuner to disable MDS, you can also use your gear selector to disable MDS. If you toggle the gear selector to your highest gear, it will not modify your shifting but ultimately keeps the MDS from kicking on. It will be something you have to do each time you get in the car/truck however its a work around if desired. I actually did this in my truck to test how much MDS actually saved on fuel. I also did it during warm up to prevent uneven metal expansion in the engine. Some may argue with me on my reasoning during warm up however I think justified. Depending on your morning drive, half your engine could be doing a majority of the warming up, which mine would have been.
I have an 05 300c with 151k miles, should I disable mds with a tuner to help prevent this from happening? It runs really good. No check engine lights or anything.
Bryson Wells no confirmation that MDS is the culprit, failures are also occurring in NON MDS motors. Do whatever you like but both MDs and non MDs lifters are known to fail
How many miles on that engine? 5 years old would still be under warranty if you can prove you changed the oil.Also,i have seen oil companies pay for engines with valve train damage.
I have to replace a few lifters on my 09' hemi because of the p3400 code..is there a way to check if the camshaft needs to be replaced too after taking the retaining clip out with out have to take more stuff apart
What retaining clip? You could pull the valve cover and compare how much a valve is opening compared to another. In order to get the lifters out and get a visual the head/s will have to come off.
I'm trying to set the timing on my 2011 Ram 1500 and having a hell of a time. I moved the pistons after I had the cam out and now have the heads back on, how can I get back to top dead center? I put a rod in 1st cylinder driver's side and then rotated the engine until it was at the top. So I believe that puts the pistons to correct location then I put cam mark to 12 :00. then I put timing chain on with the marking in the correct location. Can someone tell me where I'm going wrong?? Any and all help is much appreciated. Thanks Eric
M ph.... 1st thanks for the video and 2nd thanks for getting back to me. I'll watch the video again and see if I messed up some where. I've taking the front off the motor 5 times now and can't seem to get the timing right. Wish me luck!!!!! Cheers Eric
M ph Thanks for the help.... I ended up bending the push rods. So I must have had the timing wrong the 1st turn over and when I got the correct it was to late. Which means I didn't do enough research........ So I'm back to square one, once I get the new rods in. I know I can put #1 at TDC by having the key way at 2 o'clock and the dot at 6 o'clock on the crank shaft, because it only makes one rotation. But when it comes to the Camshaft I'm not sure if I'm at TDC on the cam because I believe?? it rotates 4 times to the 1 rotation on the crank. So I believe there's 4 times that the dot on the cam can be at 12 o'clock. What I need to know is how to make sure it's the right time it's at 12 o'clock. If you or anyone else knows how to do this, any and all help is must appreciated. Thanks Eric
just rebuilt the top end of a 2.7 she developed a knock found a cam cap bolt had come out with the threads . have you had this isssue before? can I over boar the cap hole and go 1/4 20
I have a 2005 Dodge Ram with a 5.7 Hemi. The engine cranks slowly will not start and seems to crank erratically. Could this be a Bad Timing Chain. Vehicle has about 85,000 MIles on it and has been well maintained and not driven hard.
Trucks, the oil pump has a pickup that is different. If the oil pump needs to come off, the oil pan needs to be dropped. I have pulled cams in the pst while leaving the oil pump in place though. A little tricky.
@@terryplummer7650 I have no idea whats wrong with your truck. It needs to be properly diagnosed in order to give you an answer. I can't do this over the internet. Thanks for your reply.
Your timing description in the video is 180 off. Supposed to be 2 links straddle the crank mark @ 6 single link on cam @12. Keyhole at 2.. ive been cranking this thing for an hour!!!
actually, i have the P0016 code un my 2011 ram 5.7 The engine run but with reduced performance and Fuel efficiency is not very good, at times a sound similar to the friction of the timing chain, the pressure already at nominal temperature is 16psi and 20mph from 43psi to 44psi ......What do you think it could be?
If you wanted to diagnose it without pulling it apart you will need to get a scope wave form of the cam/crank signal and compare it to a known good waveform. Or you could pull the front cover and have a look since you stated you heard "timing chain noise"
I have the same problem with my 2012 Dodge Ram 1500 HEMI. And I'm just wondering if you have any recommendation for a good mechanic to do the job and how much it cost.....I'm afraid that I cant afford much for the work :(
I am currently experiencing this same issue with a 2012 300 6.4 hemi, misfire in cylinder 5, we replaced spark plugs, coil pack, and injector. I definielty believe it's a bad lifter now
Do you have the part numbers and quantity of each part # for the lifters? I am a bit confused about MDS and non MDS. If I look up lifters on RockAuto, It is not clear what they mean. One is non-MDS and one is with MDS. I was under the impression that they are all MDS lifters and the quantity would be (2pcs) 5038785AC (front) and (2pcs) 5038786AC (rear) with each having 4 lifters in its composite holder. Is that right? Can you confirm that? 2011 Ram 1500 5.7 with MDS
4 of the cylinders have MDS lifters, 4 have standard lifters. The front/rear refer to the lifters sold in the plastic case. Not sure on the part numbers.
I got engine apart today, however, the 4 bolts are removed from the oil pump, pump does not rotate at all. Will it rotate only after I remove the chain tensioner and guide? Just seems like maybe the pickup tube is anchored in an additional place in center of engine maybe? This is a 2011. Only you might know this. Cam is out, 4th lobe from front (intake lobe of cylinder 3) is almost fully round, lifter roller bearing failed and dropped off center.
Its been almost 2 years since I did this job, don't remember all the details. You may need to drop the oil pan on your application since its a Ram instead of a Charger like this car if it will not rotate.
Yes, I see the difference. The 2010 charger Hemi has an oil pickup tube that is short and is only attached with a fastener at the oil pump only, the Ram has a second attachment point about 6 or 7 inches in. I may skip replacing the chain. The oil pan adds like 5 hours.
since i see it wore down the cam quite a bit how did you flush the motor out to prevent any further damage. and approximately how much did this rebuild cost?
Only thing I did was change the oil/filter, no flushing done. Cost, Camshaft was only like $70, gaskets $100, head bolts $60-80?, timing set $100, bank of lifters $100, oil/filter $35, coolant $15, spark Plugs $60 I suppose you could tear down the entire motor and go through it all. You could also put a new long block in. I figured the oil filter kept contaminated oil from reaching the bearings. You could also pull the motor the rest of the way and drop the oil pan and clean it up with the pickup screen.
I just replaced 4 lifters (only 1 was bad). They sell them in multiples of 4 with the plastic retainer. Front Bank Left/Rear Bank Left, Front Bank Right/Rear Bank Right. 4 lifters with the plastic retainer runs $100. So $400 to replace all the lifters in the entire engine. Each bank has 2 MDS lifters and 2 standard lifters. I did this on a tight budget replacing only what really needed to be done. Worked out just fine. The "Best" way would be to swap in a long block. Whats that, $3K plus labor?
Got a 14 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a V8 in it and they said I have a couple of failed lifters. Would you know what that would cost to get fixed because I’m hearing $1,000 to $5,000 and that’s a big gap in price.
Whats it doing, Misfire, noise, CEL with what codes? Hard to say without taking it apart. In order for the lifters to be replaced the cylinder heads need to come off. That means you need head gaskets/head bolts, intake manifold gasket, coolant/oil, valve cover gaskets. If the cam needs replacement I would do a timing chain/tensioner/oil pump at the same time. For $1000 at a shop you may get them to pull 1 head and replace 1 bank of lifters (there are 4 banks total in these engines). For all new mopar lifters/camshaft, timing chain/tensioner, oil pump, all materials I would be thinking $4-5k. I did a cam job last month in a Charger, parts alone were $800 and I skimped. Camshaft price has gone up since from about $70 to just under $300.
m ph at idle it seems like it’s about to die but I can hear a little different noise coming from the engine. The guy I take my vehicles do basically works on every ting but engines and transmissions because of how’s vehicles are made he basically stopped but he pulled it apart and just said two lifters are bad and not getting compression. I’ve had not but trouble out of the piece of shit and Jeep does nothing but want to charge 5 times more than everybody else. My wife let the oil go over about 3,000 miles too so I have no clue. Thought I’d get an opinion from someone on here.
Without looking at it its hard to say. Without pulling the lifters you won't know if the camshaft is damaged unless the cam is really bad. No compression on a cylinder could be a bunch of things, broken valve spring, leaky valve, leaky piston, bent pushrod, broken connecting rod, deactivated lifters.
Couple tips, take the belt off and see if it will turn over. An accessory could be locked up. Pull all 8 spark plugs, then see if you can turn it over (hydrolocked). If neither of those work, time for the engine to come apart.
No. I have done a dozen of these now and have yet to replace that. I just replace the lifters, camshaft and timing chain tensioner. 2 head gaskets, timing cover gasket, water pump gasket, and oil/filter/coolant. I reuse the valve cover gaskets and intake gaskets. The last couple I have cleaned and reused the head bolts.
@@mph5896 I'm in the process of doing this to my 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee, Im ending up replacing the oil pump, timing chain and tensionor and follower. Going to reuse the cam VVT sprocket, engine has very little wear but my follower has some play in it. When you installed the timing cover, did you immediately install water pump afterwards? I didn't as I'm having to do this when I have the time, so I stopped after I installed timing cover and torqued the 6 bolts down, left water pump off for now, do you see any issues with timing cover gasket failure by doing this?
Ey sir so i my truck no hwy at 40 miles/h the msd kiks on and it is making a loud ticky noise but i just replace the timing changes,tensioner and the mds solenoids ,lifters and vvt solenoid to an is making the same sound . It could be that is the vvt sprocket ? I did a visual check on the cam and it was ok . Note: on Tow-Haul or manual shift is not making the ticky sound
It just cost me $490 Cnd to find out that I have this issue with my 2012 Super Bee, (from the dealer). The car only has 69,000 KMS that's less than 43k miles!!! They say it will cost $4500 Cnd to fix it and that it "may not fix it". Does this fix the issue? My misfire is on cylinder 8. Should I bother fixing it or will I just have the issue reappear in another 43k miles? I'm so upset right now with this. There is a guy with a 2006 5.7L Hemi for sale locally, (12,000 kms on it), and he only wants $2,000 for it... will that bolt right up in place of the 6.4?
No the 2006 engine is quite different. Plus its a smaller displacement. 2009+ has quite a few different changes to the engine. IT is possible your old engine is not fixable. Ideally you would install a reman engine. In my case a new cam/lifters solved the problem.
did you have any issues with oil passages for the MDS solenoids? I have a 5.7 in my bays right now that it looks like the oil passages to the #1 cylinder are clogged. :( I also suspect wiped cam lobes. I am very disappointed in this engine design. Between broken valve springs and lifter issues... Thanks for the video!
On this one no. Had one earlier this year, MDS solenoid had an issue and threw an MDS code. The engine misfired and shut the injector down to cylinder 1 to prevent the cat from cooking. It was ticking/knocking pretty good, replaced the MDS solenoid and blew compressed air around where the MDS solenoid sits. The MDS solenoid came out VERY hard and in pieces. Put it all back together, disconnected the battery/cleared codes and that fixed the problem. Noise went away along with the misfire. MDS makes these engines quite problematic, same thing in other MDS engines such as the 5.3l Chevy. Crappy system that costs tons just to save a small amount of fuel.
Buccshot 132 i have a 2011 too ticks or clanks on cold start and quiets down after it fully warms up , did u find a solution? Iam going to replace thr lifters
If you believe it's internal, make sure the lifter rollers and cam are not damaged and making the noise. I'm doing an engine at the moment. 2010 ram with a bad lifter/ cam, and metal in the oil not worth repairing With the chance of Deeper damage from the metal in the oil
Car was sold a week or two after it was fixed. Not sure on a permanent fix on these. It will more than likely go bad again. Maybe a high volume oil pump would improve longevity???
My 2012 ram 1500 has the same thing just cylinder 6. Can’t believe the number of people that have the same issue and dodge dose nothing about it. Repair cost-$3500 about $600 if you can do it yourself
crissakes! after watching a dozen of these vids i am totally in lovr with my v12 jag. it has none of these fucked up flaws. 25 years old and still pulls 170 mph+ ;->
think again...dynoed at 477 at the rear wheels. it;s been breathed on quite a bit over stock and started life as a 6litre engine circa 1994.it would pull 158 in stock trim with only breather and exhaust mods. also...nigel now tops at 173 mph through the traps...1 mile run clocked. again....far from stock trim and lovingly taken care of and gets driven at least four days a week although i am no longer doing the commuter thing. when a jag engine tosses its usually because its owner spends more time polishing it than doing the proper services required but that is the cost of classic car motoring. not everyone can afford to have them worked on or have the know how to do it themselves. my xjs has been a labour of love and quite the sleeper as it turns out which is no end of entertainment. i imagine that the 5.7 engine owners that have had these failures don't properly take care of their rides or treat them properly like ensuring proper engine warm up times....shutting them directly off after a hard run or overheating ...running them low on oil but when i look at the cam drive arrangement,that skinny chain and some of the other parts used i cant help but think the engine was raped by cost accountants. at any rate...v12\s are what we do and xjs's are what we run. you can contact us at jaguar.racing.us at gmail dot com for pics.processes and parts ranging from suspension components to hand built and programmed ecu's glad to see at least some of the 5.7\s have turned out well.
ok thank you for the update i just bought a new challenger and was hoping that this was not a common problem with this engines... but from your statement this was a somewhat high mileage motor .... is this your own car ? the reason why i am asking wondering the service history on this engine ... because is see tons of people who do not change their oils wondering if this was a contributing factor
thank you for the update .... going to use fully synthetic oil for my 2016. would you happen to know if they corrected these problems for the 2016 models
Depends on how in depth you go. If you do all new OEM lifters 16/cam, timing chain, gaskets, exc prob $1200-1500. You could use aftermarket stuff for $800-1000
All OEM dodge stuff I would probably say at least 1500-2000, maybe more. Don’t forget you need all new head bolts and head gaskets and all that as well
it is what happens when you build an engine out of parts made on a printer. disappointed to see this problem is not rare. so much for getting a hemi car.
The 2009+ Hemi engines have their issues. When they run correctly they are a lot of fun. Mind you this is a 150K engine with an estimated 12000 POLICE hours on it so its TIRED.
2009 thru 2011 5.7 hemis have a recall on timing set go to mopar website click on MY VEHICLE-----> RECALLS---> VIN# enter your vin and scroll down to see if there are any open recalls on your car. No questions. Dealer will honor it. Just brought my recently acquired RT 225K miles. they did the recall. now I also did not know about until I had a p0305 code which turned out to be bad lifter/cam
you need to take your car to your local dodge dealership to see if your is cover under p01 recall dealing with the engine timing chain/tenisoner /guide
I own a 2010 Dodge Charger with the 5.7L Hemi engine with 67K miles. I keep this car in mint condition and on the recommended (dealership) maintenance schedule. Just had this happen in April 2016 on a normal drive from Columbia, SC to Birmingham, AL. Had the vehicle repaired for four thousand seven hundred ($4700.00) dollars at Hendrick Chrysler Dodge dealership in Birmingham, AL. The dealership made no mention of RECALL P01. I submitted my receipt to FCA on July 7th 2016 over seventy (70) days ago for reimbursement. Sadly, they'd only begun to take action after I called four (4) times to customer service. Customer service offed me an apology and approximately one hundred seventy ($170.00) dollars. I rejected the offer from customer service and my case #29655953 has been assigned to a case manager .... I'm a former Jeep Grand Cherokee, Stratus (both limited editions) and now a Charger owner..... hmmmm can a brutha' get a break :-(
listening and watching your description of detail about how you were able to avoid dropping the oil pan was the best part. I am beginning a cam and lifter change tomorrow on a 2011 ram 1500 4WD that has a bad cam lobe on cyl #3 and I was wishing there was a workaround of dropping the pan which I was dreading. Your extra detail (that nobody else mentioned anywhere) about turning the oil pump clockwise slightly allowing pickup tube bolt access was golden. You get the golden buzzer $$$$$$$$$$#$$$$$$$$$#############$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$######################
Great video
Kevin Huttenlocher I'm doing an 09 for the same failure and the pump doesn't turn so if you haven't done it yet just be ready for that.
How’d your replacement go I have an 2009 want to start replacement soon any other tips?
WOW!! YOU ARE THE FUCKEN MAN FOR THIS ONE! That oil pump,, NOT ONE PERSON HAD THE ANSWER TO REMOVE IT. THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR MAKING THIS VIDEO.
I really like the way you explain yourself because most mechanics don't awesome video Sir
It was funny that you had everything set up like it was in the car but great video.. Detailed instructions also.. Thanks
great video well explained I like how you laid out the parts on the table and clearly explained the extraction of the parts and bolts and the timing excellent job a bit of advice get better lighting thanks man
Thank you. Plan on doing some work on my 5.7 hemi later this year and this will help.
Good Video. Saved me much time. I was considering pulling oil pan on RAM 1500 to get the cam out. It occurs to me this technique may also work on a Chevy LS motor as well. Nearly the exact same setup with the oil pump.Again. Great vid.
Excellent video! Exact same catastrophic engine failure (cam lobe & lifter) and symptoms on #3 cylinder on my '09 Durango Hemi LTD 4WD, 103K odometer, meticulously maintained, full synthetic oil & filter changes every 3K miles, I am the only owner after the owner of a Dodge dealership in Lansing, Michigan, drove it for 9 months. Solution: About $9K out of pocket for R & R with remanufactured Jasper long block engine with 3 year/100K mile warranty, with all new accessories (water pump, hoses, etc.). Both shops I conferred with stated that you need to thoroughly flush the engine, replace the old oil pump, replace or professionally flush the intake manifold & verify with camera, replace any external oil cooler & plumbing, all new bearings, etcetera, etcetera.... must get all the metal shavings out of the engine and all accessories and oil system plumbing in order to really do it right. Dodge was zero help, refused to acknowledge the problem, and even refused my request to just sell me a new replacement hemi crate engine at cost!
Yes, ideally what you did was best. It also took 9k to do it that way. I was willing to risk $500 in parts and 10 hours of my labor time. Would I do a cam swap without a full teardown for a customers car, no.
Awsome video man I got a 2011 ram 1500 going to do this and was thinking of putting in a new chain but didn't want to drop the oil pan. This is a big help!
Ryan v I heard from other people the oil pan needs to come off on the rams. Different oil pump pickup setup on them
@@mph5896 Damn. Oh well good to know now before I start. Thanks for the heads up. Maybe I wont be changing the timing chain haha
@@mph5896 Yes you are correct, the Ram pan does have to come off. Just finished a cyl #3 failure from lifter.
About to have to do this on my buddies 5.7 hemi 1500 truck .. think we will go with aftermarket lifters and oil pump .
There are three of these engines in our family and all are trucks. No issues as of yet. The trucks range from 40,000 miles up to 130,000 miles. Running zddp additive in the oil... Bumped the viscosity up one also. The engines are definitely quieter. Apparently either you get one of these engines that will go half a million miles or it will start having problems at low mileage. Best thing you can do is run a top-grade synthetic, and put zddp in your oil I think will help. Don't let them idle for very long in hot weather as the oil becomes too thin for good lubrication and protection against heat buildup in the tiny rollers in the roller lifters. I am a die-hard Mopar man 100% oh, but I have read so many of these problems with the 5.7... Chrysler obviously isn't standing back of it which is very sad to me. But if you go online also looking at the other brands and their problems you will see similar BS. So it seems all of us are just going to have to face these issues no matter what brand we have, although rate from go, the 5.7 and 6.4 seem to be the worst of all of them. What a pity
I don't know if it's helping my Hemi's lifespan, but I'm doing 5000 mile oil changes with Royal Purple 5w20. The head is so clean you can eat off it. I don't hear any ticking, it runs smooth, but it's only got 42000 miles. Maybe I'm doing it a favor. It used to tick with conventional oil from the dealer.
Curious why Royal Purple?
Same thing on my 2011 Charger RT. #5 looks just like that. Two other rollers feel like they were about to do the same. That's just on the one side I got the head off. Still have the other head to get off. But I only had the cylinder 5 misfire. I am doing mine with the engine still installed too. Tight fit on sides. I took the driver side motor mount off to jack it up to make space on the right and let it down to make room on the left. Had to remove motor mount just to get the heat shields off the exhaust manifold. Big job, but so much cheaper doing it yourself. Around $1,000 in parts, changing water pump and a idler pulley too. Changing the timing chain too, but very difficult getting the oil pump loose with the pan still on. Hope I can get that bolt back on without removing the pan. Used a magnetic tip to help turn the bolt loose. Got the cam out just now. Hmm, I thought it looked like a coating that wore out, but now that I got even a closer look with my phone camera and zoomed in, I see putting. What would cause putting in the metal? The water pump was working fine. The bearing on that felt really good, but the aluminum looks like abrasive material was eroding bits of the water pump housing. So I had to replace the water pump. The timing chain cover, that the water pump bolts on to, has it too, but not really bad. That part was $450 and out of stock.
kudos. thx for 2:47 oil pump removal much needed tip. plastic tensioner sucks: doesnt even have a secondary like the 4.7Ls.
Two-timing this job tomorrow with another tech, thanks for posting it.
T Rock no prob. I don’t even bother pulling the oil pump anymore, I just unbolt it and rotate. It’s a big job, last one I did was 9 hours. I also don’t bother pulling the bumper bar or discharging the air. Pull the water pump, then fan, front bumper and radiator from the engine side. Leave the condensor and other coolers, there is room to wiggle the cam out with it still attached by maneuvering the co sensor a little.
@@mph5896 we took the entire front end off, condenser etc. No deadline so we took our time. Runs like a beast now.
Has anyone filed a class action lawsuit against Chrysler...seeing that this is a common and reoccurring problem in their Hemi engines?
It’s an actual design flaw to boot. The cam and lifters do not get oiled until around 2000 rpms. So do not idle these too long. And use good oil.
@@melplishka-se8bf wrong... oiling is fine, its quality control on lifters and higher lift(MDS/VVT) from 2009-2017
One acronym, NAFTA.
@@lynnchelo4727 lifters were being made various places. most i see are German made(daimler...)..
Darth Hemi aaaaah no when you have the heads off take a look you’ll see the problem. If you can’t then you have no idea what you talking about.
Are there any small ball bearing sets on the 5.7 valve train or oil pump system? Changed the oil and in the bottom of the drain were 2 small steel balls. Theres a possibility that they came from my motorcycle that I changed the oil the night before.. Thanks
I find it hard to believe there is no law suit being filed from any state attorney general!
Great did! Thanks for the tips!
Looks like a lot of fun have to do timing chain in Gears tensioners in my pickup soon
See Uncle Tony’s video: Design Flaw in Hemi splash oiling system. At idle no splash is getting to rollers. Use Schaefer oil and zinc additive. Idle as little as possible.
I saw that video. Thats a hypothesis on the situation. No testing done to prove it though. Its an interesting theory though.
Had a 5.7L Ram come in the shop with ~80k miles, misfire, and it would randomly pour oil smoke out the exhaust. Think it was second cylinder on the drivers side. Checked for spark, fuel, etc had all that. Can't remember what the compression test showed but I ended up taking the valve cover off and cranking it over, no movement of the intake valve. Checked the cylinder deactivation when cruising system, that particular cylinder was not one that was capable of shutting down. The owner took it to the dealer and they put a new engine in it.
Then just this week a 5.7L Ram comes in with 305k, burns coolant occasionally. I put a reman Jasper engine in that. I assumed it was a head gasket and at that mileage it wasn't worth putting head gaskets on it.
So they can go far sometimes, other times not so much. The second instance was in a 3500 dually.
Interesting on the first one. What year?
I had an older 5.7l hemi (2006 Charger)with a misfire/no compression and HEAVY smoke on cylinder 5. Pulled the head, the valve seat dropped and poked holes in that piston. It then spread metal into the intake manifold and around to other cylinders. I put a used engine from a Ram truck into that car. Stripped it down to a long block and it dropped right in without modifications. I had to power wash/flush/soak out the plastic intake manifold to get all the metal out, a new one was around $500 and every used one I found was full of metal like mine.
In all honesty, did Dodge/Chrysler make any good gasoline engines in the past 10 years?
The Ram was a 2010 I believe.
Man that's some carnage, lots of valve problems with these. Haven't personally seen one that bad but I'm sure I will at some point.
Yeah, overheat a 4.7l or 5.7l and your dropping seats. Vwdarren had a Dodge Magnum he did last summer or the summer before with the same issue, dropped seat/blew a hole in a piston and sent metal everywhere.
Exact same problem on the same cylinder on my 2011 Dodge Ram 1500 Sport 5.7 Hemi, 103,000 miles. No oil coming out of cylinder 5 intake rocker, been seeing TONS of these videos on every non-MDS cylinder, bad Hemi flaw! Chrysler not taking any responsibility for thier poor design. Getting ready to pull and replace the motor with aftermarket parts to try and avoid this issue again!
Rocker oil is unrelated, as is MDS.
There should be a recall on these or lifetime warranty if they go bad
You can leave the pump guide and tensioner on the car. Set tdc. Loosen the phaser. Mark the chain drop the phaser down. Take the chain off. Install your new cam. Line it back up. Removing the pump is wasted time.
My 2011 charger 120k miles has same problem on #5. Think sitting idle doesn't provide enough lube.
bingo
No hablo ingles pero por la descripción del vídeo creo que se trata del mismo problema que tengo en un charger, después de arrancarlo por la mañana a la 10 minutos de calentar se empieza a escuchar un chasquido parecido a los lifters y a medida que pasa el tiempo se hace mas intenso, creo que empezaré a desarmar tal como lo describes. Gracias.
Con este coche tuve un fallo de encendido del cilindro (sacudida del motor). Más aún al ralentí. También el motor tuvo un ligero golpe.
Been with chrysler for a lil over 2 years and gotta say this is very common! We have this problem on our 5.7l, 6.4l, and 6.2l hellcat supercharged, we get to see this at least once a month its sad that chrysler hasnt found a fix to this yet have seen them go out at as lil as 30k miles
Did the early models in 2003 have this problem too, I only have 40,000 miles on a rebuilt motor
MrLIFEISTOOSHORT
Wow, that means as late as 2015 models still have this problem.
Shame on Chrysler. In a way they deserve to go bankrupt for their laziness.
MrLIFEISTOOSHORT my 5.7 ram longhorn lifter failure,/ worn camshaft 70,000 miles
hornedawg86 dang, sorry to hear. What year was it?
So I had a compression issue on my car but my valve seat just gave out cuz the car got hot and I shut it off and turn it back on due to a faulty water pump that I just switched out and now I don't know if my Cam's good or bad but that's good to know about the compression issue the valency I didn't think that would be I thought it was just the lifters
Hello. I just had the exact problem with my 2011 GC 5.7 Hemi. The #5 intake lifter did exact thing. I have a local dealer doing the work. This is the quote I got from him today as I was suppose to pick it up "We have run into a little bit of a problem with the Jeep. We started it up and there was a knocking type noise so we turned it right off. The technician wants to re check the timing, he thinks there might be something wrong with it that might be a tooth or 2 off"
Sounds like timing was off. Question is what kind of damage could have they done?
BTW - Replaced cam and all lifters with new Mopar dealer parts.
My moms car has the same moter with the same problem. Jim Click said it’s the camshaft. And gonna cost like 3800 to fix it.
Hey man how has everything been going/working since you did the repair? What parts/brand did you end up using?
thank you for your video it helps me a lot
thanks for the tips brother
curious where is all that steel that came off the camshaft lobe? why is this not an issue with babott bearings? after putting 1/4lb of hardened metal dust in the oil what could possibly go wrong.
Replace the camshaft and cross your fingers or put a long block in it. Its your choice and your wallet.
Fantastico,. me estoy preparando para cuando me toque abrir a ver que es la causa del sonido de Mi Ram 3ra generation 5.7 hemi 2006 tiene un sonido de taquetes o buzos botadores como les llamen, suena en el 1er encendido en las mañanas unas veces dura 1 minuto, otras veces no suena,. pero solo hasta que cargan. Que podra ser? que me recomiendan hacer antes q me salga mas caro el daño? si tengo que cambiar arbol de leva y botadores, q me recomiendan hacer aprovechando que ya desarmé el.motor. ojo tiene ya 300 mil km y esta standar.
Mine's number 5 also, I've seen it be number 5 cylinder at a like 3 to 1 ratio.
It's got a cop motor, a three hundred ninety two cubic inch Hemi plant.
It's got the cop camshaft, cop lifters, cop pushrods,
It's been running 15,400 hours at idle with no oil so the cam lobes are flat.
What do you say? Is the new Mopar Hemi crap?
A police car, hemi is worn out in around 100k. Time for a long block. I currently have an awd hemi 2015. It’s a very fun car to drive with the awd and winter tires
@@mph5896 A police car with 100K probably has a lot of idle hours.
On the Hemi the cam and lifter oil flow is low at idle.
Gordon Welcher that’s uncle Tony’s theory. I have seen quite a few police chargers with lower hours, like 6000 total hours with wiped out cams. Rollers on the lifters lock up and do the cams in. Other police cars do the same thing though, like Tahoe’s and caprices. The Ford non turbo 3.7l holds up pretty well engine wise
@@mph5896 Thats where I got this from.
It is true it is his theory only.
What else do you think it could be?
The Bluesmobile with the 440 probably doesn't have this problem but is doesn't have roller lifters.
It’s just a hypothesis he came up with. Nothing to back it up. He could be correct, or it could be a lifter manufacturing issue, poor design, or just use from high amount of hours. Or something else?
Just did a 6.4 cam swap in our '09 Charger. Same price cam as 5.7, 82.00. Dirt cheap! hopefully your bearings are ok, please post an update of your status.
I was quite surprised how cheap the cam was, I paid $65 for a new OEM one. Its all back together and runs/drives perfectly. I have over 1000 miles on it.
Why did you take the bumper out and discharge a/c. There’s tons of room with the rad out ?.
This was 5 years ago. I have since done them differently. Bumper reinforcement does not need to come out and condenser can be moved to get the cam out with the lines attached.
Its an 8 year old truck. Dodge warranties the truck for a certain period of time. If the warranty runs out and you fail to buy a new one all repair costs are your responsibility. Dodge has 0 responsibility to fix your truck outside of warranty even if its a common problem.
Twoleggedkumulava not understanding that last sentence, but you are right about Chrysler knowing about design flaw in that motor, better quality lifters and cam would go a long way to restore customer confidence, or we can go to another manufacturer
great video thanks a lot very informative on the oil pump deal
So you weren't worried about the metal shavings in the oil pan?
What metal shavings in the oil pan?
@@mph5896 , so the metal off the cam lobe and lifter just vaporized? What metal did you think I was referring to?
@@firebreathinggarage2117 No, I was not concerned with metal shavings in the oil pan. Its a slower wear process creating finite metal particles that are picked up by the oil filter. My opinion is engine replacement with oil cooler replacement would be best practice.
@@mph5896 yes most of the wear would be fine metal, but along the edge of the lifter cutting the valley out in the cam lobe, on the sides of the lifter which leaves long slivers of metal that fall of the cam lobe. Hope your works ends well. The oiling on the cam of these engine's is terrible almost noon existent at low Rpms.
you should always be concerned. Maybe use a spray wand and clean it out from the hole, flush and refill... The dealer MUST drop the pan. They require it, but the problem is the lifter quality and mds/vvt (high lift). Thankfully the incidence gets smaller and smaller as years go up, they got it wrapped up in 18 it looks like. Seems like 11--14 was the bad years. th-cam.com/video/PAuNSYqOQjk/w-d-xo.html
Hi guys, when engine rebuilders rebuild their engines they use a ZINK additive with the oil to prevent premature failure. Why not try and use oil with zink additive as standard oil when driving??
2012 ram 1500 LH pump doesn't turn. The chain guide is longer than the one in the video making it imposable to remove without the pump coming off (Tensioner came off easy) and the pickup tube is keeping the pump from turning the correct way in order to remove the pickup tube. I can almost get the pump to turn far enough but the bolt hits the oil pan if I try to pull it out. Good video though was worth the try.
BTW My repair is for cyl 8 misfire( cam failure due to seized lifter roller.)
Is it possible to set the crank timing 180 degrees off and still be at the marks? Just did a cam/lifter job, hesitates to start and sounds loud, I did turn it by hand before hand and it turned fine
Excessive idling is the culprit here. You can change your oil every 3k but if you idle many many hours during that 3k miles your oil will be worn out before you get to 3k.
Dodge Rams are wiping out the cams like crazy as well. Crummy design.
Hmm sounds like my problem! 90k miles on my 03 5.7 Hemi ram.. cyl 5 misfire code, low, kinda rough idle.. to diagnose would u suggest removing the cover & looking for play on the rockers like you mentioned? wonder if it’s even worth it seems to be running kinda OK minus the rough/ chugging idle.
Jonathan Cooksey 08 and down usually don’t wear out camshafts. Saw it once but that was a super high idle hour police car. The 08 and down Hemis drop valve seats, they bang around in the head and poke a hole in the piston. Do a compression check and see what you have to work with
2007 Magnum R/T.. 145,000 miles, just bought it pulls like a freight train.. Just oil changed, now have what sounds like a tap in valve cover pass side. No sound at idle, lightly taps when rpm's go up... 55lbs oil cold at idle, 25-30 at idle hot... Diablo tuner, 91 tune..no codes, runs great... Any ideas? And how were the cam bearings in that car you fixed? thanks
retaining clip that holds 4 lifters each..I wonder if after I put the new lifters in if a can judge by seeing if there's play in the valve still..because if the cam lobe was worn it would still cause the valve not to open fully with new lifter right? my hemi tick is only on cold start
I was able to inspect the cam with it in place once the lifters were pulled. I used a mirror and flashlight. You could also use a bore scope (the camera scope).
Ok cool, I figured I could do it that way. Thanks man
If I disable the MDS on my 2014 hemi, will it prolongs the issue from occurring.
Reading online that to prevent this you can disable MDS since it a major player in this catastrophic engine seize
+007 007 I believe you will. My personal feeling was from the beginning that this failure was caused by the massive change in thrust forces exerted on the timing chain when the engine changes from 4 cylinder to 8 cylinder operation. Basically when the engine transitions from 4 to 8 it pumps four lifters back up so they begin opening and closing valves. That pressure causes the chain to slap the tensioner which causes the early black plastic tensioners to snap which then allows the chain to slap around even worse which ultimately causes the chain to snap. The replacement guide set is made of white nylon and the guide shoe is now aluminum backed.
I don't have a 5.7 but ever since they started having issues I decided to never use MDS in my 6.4 Hemi even though there haven't been any widespread failures in the 6.4's.
+brett248vista excellent reply sir.
same here, i've the jeep grand cherokee 5.7 hemi and also non of these issues have been recorded on the jeeps. only 300s, chargers and challengers.
but i'm disabling mine, dont want to wait until i discover if the issue is present on jeeps.
+007 007 If you don't have a tuner to disable MDS, you can also use your gear selector to disable MDS. If you toggle the gear selector to your highest gear, it will not modify your shifting but ultimately keeps the MDS from kicking on. It will be something you have to do each time you get in the car/truck however its a work around if desired. I actually did this in my truck to test how much MDS actually saved on fuel. I also did it during warm up to prevent uneven metal expansion in the engine. Some may argue with me on my reasoning during warm up however I think justified. Depending on your morning drive, half your engine could be doing a majority of the warming up, which mine would have been.
I had the same issue with the cam on a 2010 Ram 2500. It doesn't have MDS. Many times the lifter roller locks up and eats the lobe off the cam.
It's a lifter issue, not a design issue. New lifters were issued beginning July of 2016, and the timing/guide issue was solved mid 2013.
I have an 05 300c with 151k miles, should I disable mds with a tuner to help prevent this from happening? It runs really good. No check engine lights or anything.
Bryson Wells no confirmation that MDS is the culprit, failures are also occurring in NON MDS motors. Do whatever you like but both MDs and non MDs lifters are known to fail
Nice breakdown
Thanks fornthe oil pump trick
How many miles on that engine? 5 years old would still be under warranty if you can prove you changed the oil.Also,i have seen oil companies pay for engines with valve train damage.
I have to replace a few lifters on my 09' hemi because of the p3400 code..is there a way to check if the camshaft needs to be replaced too after taking the retaining clip out with out have to take more stuff apart
What retaining clip? You could pull the valve cover and compare how much a valve is opening compared to another. In order to get the lifters out and get a visual the head/s will have to come off.
I'm trying to set the timing on my 2011 Ram 1500 and having a hell of a time. I moved the pistons after I had the cam out and now have the heads back on, how can I get back to top dead center? I put a rod in 1st cylinder driver's side and then rotated the engine until it was at the top. So I believe that puts the pistons to correct location then I put cam mark to 12 :00. then I put timing chain on with the marking in the correct location. Can someone tell me where I'm going wrong?? Any and all help is much appreciated. Thanks Eric
Line the dots/slashes up. In the video this is described @ 2:00 mark for cam and 3:20 for crank. Not sure how to describe it any easier than that?
M ph.... 1st thanks for the video and 2nd thanks for getting back to me. I'll watch the video again and see if I messed up some where. I've taking the front off the motor 5 times now and can't seem to get the timing right. Wish me luck!!!!! Cheers Eric
M ph
Thanks for the help.... I ended up bending the push rods. So I must have had the timing wrong the 1st turn over and when I got the correct it was to late. Which means I didn't do enough research........ So I'm back to square one, once I get the new rods in. I know I can put #1 at TDC by having the key way at 2 o'clock and the dot at 6 o'clock on the crank shaft, because it only makes one rotation. But when it comes to the Camshaft I'm not sure if I'm at TDC on the cam because I believe?? it rotates 4 times to the 1 rotation on the crank. So I believe there's 4 times that the dot on the cam can be at 12 o'clock. What I need to know is how to make sure it's the right time it's at 12 o'clock. If you or anyone else knows how to do this, any and all help is must appreciated.
Thanks
Eric
No, camshaft turns 1 time. crank shaft turns 2 times. Line up the dots like I said and you are good.
just rebuilt the top end of a 2.7 she developed a knock found a cam cap bolt had come out with the threads . have you had this isssue before? can I over boar the cap hole and go 1/4 20
I have a 2005 Dodge Ram with a 5.7 Hemi. The engine cranks slowly will not start and seems to crank erratically. Could this be a Bad Timing Chain. Vehicle has about 85,000 MIles on it and has been well maintained and not driven hard.
Could be lots of different things. May want to bring it somewhere and have it diagnosed.
Is the process the same as in a pick up truck I have a 2500 I’m doing this weekend
Trucks, the oil pump has a pickup that is different. If the oil pump needs to come off, the oil pan needs to be dropped. I have pulled cams in the pst while leaving the oil pump in place though. A little tricky.
m ph this truck won’t start, I’m thinking it has really bad damage. Can a new cam and lifters be put in if he drove it around like that for awhile
@@terryplummer7650 I have no idea whats wrong with your truck. It needs to be properly diagnosed in order to give you an answer. I can't do this over the internet. Thanks for your reply.
Your timing description in the video is 180 off. Supposed to be 2 links straddle the crank mark @ 6 single link on cam @12. Keyhole at 2.. ive been cranking this thing for an hour!!!
Description in video is perfect. You did something wrong if it won't start.
actually, i have the P0016 code un my 2011 ram 5.7 The engine run but with reduced performance and Fuel efficiency is not very good, at times a sound similar to the friction of the timing chain, the pressure already at nominal temperature is 16psi and 20mph from 43psi to 44psi ......What do you think it could be?
If you wanted to diagnose it without pulling it apart you will need to get a scope wave form of the cam/crank signal and compare it to a known good waveform. Or you could pull the front cover and have a look since you stated you heard "timing chain noise"
can u put flat lifters in it
I have the same problem with my 2012 Dodge Ram 1500 HEMI. And I'm just wondering if you have any recommendation for a good mechanic to do the job and how much it cost.....I'm afraid that I cant afford much for the work :(
Parts cost for cam, all lifters, gaskets, timing components $1200-1500. Prob a 3-5000 job at a shop. I don't have any recommendations.
m ph if its still under warranty will the charge?
I am currently experiencing this same issue with a 2012 300 6.4 hemi, misfire in cylinder 5, we replaced spark plugs, coil pack, and injector. I definielty believe it's a bad lifter now
Do you have the part numbers and quantity of each part # for the lifters? I am a bit confused about MDS and non MDS. If I look up lifters on RockAuto, It is not clear what they mean. One is non-MDS and one is with MDS. I was under the impression that they are all MDS lifters and the quantity would be (2pcs) 5038785AC (front) and (2pcs) 5038786AC (rear) with each having 4 lifters in its composite holder. Is that right? Can you confirm that? 2011 Ram 1500 5.7 with MDS
4 of the cylinders have MDS lifters, 4 have standard lifters. The front/rear refer to the lifters sold in the plastic case. Not sure on the part numbers.
I got engine apart today, however, the 4 bolts are removed from the oil pump, pump does not rotate at all. Will it rotate only after I remove the chain tensioner and guide? Just seems like maybe the pickup tube is anchored in an additional place in center of engine maybe? This is a 2011. Only you might know this. Cam is out, 4th lobe from front (intake lobe of cylinder 3) is almost fully round, lifter roller bearing failed and dropped off center.
Its been almost 2 years since I did this job, don't remember all the details.
You may need to drop the oil pan on your application since its a Ram instead of a Charger like this car if it will not rotate.
Yes, I see the difference. The 2010 charger Hemi has an oil pickup tube that is short and is only attached with a fastener at the oil pump only, the Ram has a second attachment point about 6 or 7 inches in. I may skip replacing the chain. The oil pan adds like 5 hours.
since i see it wore down the cam quite a bit how did you flush the motor out to prevent any further damage. and approximately how much did this rebuild cost?
Only thing I did was change the oil/filter, no flushing done. Cost, Camshaft was only like $70, gaskets $100, head bolts $60-80?, timing set $100, bank of lifters $100, oil/filter $35, coolant $15, spark Plugs $60
I suppose you could tear down the entire motor and go through it all. You could also put a new long block in. I figured the oil filter kept contaminated oil from reaching the bearings. You could also pull the motor the rest of the way and drop the oil pan and clean it up with the pickup screen.
+m ph when you say a bank of lifters you just did the lifters that failed correct and the cam so not all lifters were replaced?
I just replaced 4 lifters (only 1 was bad). They sell them in multiples of 4 with the plastic retainer. Front Bank Left/Rear Bank Left, Front Bank Right/Rear Bank Right. 4 lifters with the plastic retainer runs $100. So $400 to replace all the lifters in the entire engine. Each bank has 2 MDS lifters and 2 standard lifters.
I did this on a tight budget replacing only what really needed to be done. Worked out just fine. The "Best" way would be to swap in a long block. Whats that, $3K plus labor?
+m ph How did you drop the oil pan to remove the pickup tube? That's the only thing i need to make sure of
Unsure on how to drop the oil pan, never did it on this car.
i really need help. When I push the start button on my car it just turns but no kick off to crank. What could be the problem?
Take it somewhere and have it diagnosed
Got a 14 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a V8 in it and they said I have a couple of failed lifters. Would you know what that would cost to get fixed because I’m hearing $1,000 to $5,000 and that’s a big gap in price.
Whats it doing, Misfire, noise, CEL with what codes?
Hard to say without taking it apart. In order for the lifters to be replaced the cylinder heads need to come off. That means you need head gaskets/head bolts, intake manifold gasket, coolant/oil, valve cover gaskets. If the cam needs replacement I would do a timing chain/tensioner/oil pump at the same time.
For $1000 at a shop you may get them to pull 1 head and replace 1 bank of lifters (there are 4 banks total in these engines). For all new mopar lifters/camshaft, timing chain/tensioner, oil pump, all materials I would be thinking $4-5k.
I did a cam job last month in a Charger, parts alone were $800 and I skimped. Camshaft price has gone up since from about $70 to just under $300.
m ph at idle it seems like it’s about to die but I can hear a little different noise coming from the engine. The guy I take my vehicles do basically works on every ting but engines and transmissions because of how’s vehicles are made he basically stopped but he pulled it apart and just said two lifters are bad and not getting compression. I’ve had not but trouble out of the piece of shit and Jeep does nothing but want to charge 5 times more than everybody else. My wife let the oil go over about 3,000 miles too so I have no clue. Thought I’d get an opinion from someone on here.
Without looking at it its hard to say. Without pulling the lifters you won't know if the camshaft is damaged unless the cam is really bad. No compression on a cylinder could be a bunch of things, broken valve spring, leaky valve, leaky piston, bent pushrod, broken connecting rod, deactivated lifters.
m ph great. It basically sounds like I’m fucked.
Its going to be an expensive repair.
On a 2003 Dodge 1 ton with a 5.7 Hemi engine locked up didn't make a noise what would it be
Couple tips, take the belt off and see if it will turn over. An accessory could be locked up.
Pull all 8 spark plugs, then see if you can turn it over (hydrolocked).
If neither of those work, time for the engine to come apart.
Did you end up replacing the camshaft sprocket as well!!!
No. I have done a dozen of these now and have yet to replace that. I just replace the lifters, camshaft and timing chain tensioner. 2 head gaskets, timing cover gasket, water pump gasket, and oil/filter/coolant. I reuse the valve cover gaskets and intake gaskets. The last couple I have cleaned and reused the head bolts.
@@mph5896 how much does a job like this cost. How much would you charge?
@@mph5896 I'm in the process of doing this to my 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee, Im ending up replacing the oil pump, timing chain and tensionor and follower. Going to reuse the cam VVT sprocket, engine has very little wear but my follower has some play in it. When you installed the timing cover, did you immediately install water pump afterwards? I didn't as I'm having to do this when I have the time, so I stopped after I installed timing cover and torqued the 6 bolts down, left water pump off for now, do you see any issues with timing cover gasket failure by doing this?
Have the same issue so after replacing cam and rocker their is a tap.
Thats not good.
Ey sir so i my truck no hwy at 40 miles/h the msd kiks on and it is making a loud ticky noise but i just replace the timing changes,tensioner and the mds solenoids ,lifters and vvt solenoid to an is making the same sound . It could be that is the vvt sprocket ? I did a visual check on the cam and it was ok . Note: on Tow-Haul or manual shift is not making the ticky sound
Does the same thing for me I've got almost 200,000 miles on it haven't worried about it
These plastic parts. I have same issue to tune of 4390 from dealer. Is it better to buy better set up?
I use OEM parts. Only thing thats plastic is tensioner. The lifter surround is plastic, but there is no issues with them.
It just cost me $490 Cnd to find out that I have this issue with my 2012 Super Bee, (from the dealer). The car only has 69,000 KMS that's less than 43k miles!!! They say it will cost $4500 Cnd to fix it and that it "may not fix it". Does this fix the issue? My misfire is on cylinder 8. Should I bother fixing it or will I just have the issue reappear in another 43k miles? I'm so upset right now with this. There is a guy with a 2006 5.7L Hemi for sale locally, (12,000 kms on it), and he only wants $2,000 for it... will that bolt right up in place of the 6.4?
No the 2006 engine is quite different. Plus its a smaller displacement. 2009+ has quite a few different changes to the engine.
IT is possible your old engine is not fixable. Ideally you would install a reman engine. In my case a new cam/lifters solved the problem.
did you have any issues with oil passages for the MDS solenoids? I have a 5.7 in my bays right now that it looks like the oil passages to the #1 cylinder are clogged. :( I also suspect wiped cam lobes. I am very disappointed in this engine design. Between broken valve springs and lifter issues... Thanks for the video!
On this one no. Had one earlier this year, MDS solenoid had an issue and threw an MDS code. The engine misfired and shut the injector down to cylinder 1 to prevent the cat from cooking. It was ticking/knocking pretty good, replaced the MDS solenoid and blew compressed air around where the MDS solenoid sits. The MDS solenoid came out VERY hard and in pieces. Put it all back together, disconnected the battery/cleared codes and that fixed the problem. Noise went away along with the misfire.
MDS makes these engines quite problematic, same thing in other MDS engines such as the 5.3l Chevy. Crappy system that costs tons just to save a small amount of fuel.
I have a 2011 charger pursuit with 130k miles. ticking noise when I on the gas goes away when I let go . noise goes away after 20 min of driving
Buccshot 132 i have a 2011 too ticks or clanks on cold start and quiets down after it fully warms up , did u find a solution? Iam going to replace thr lifters
Ahmed Mohammed at 137k miles now .haven't been to the shop . not sure what the issue is
Buccshot 132 could be an lazy lifter or exhaust manifold leak
If you believe it's internal, make sure the lifter rollers and cam are not damaged and making the noise. I'm doing an engine at the moment. 2010 ram with a bad lifter/ cam, and metal in the oil not worth repairing With the chance of Deeper damage from the metal in the oil
Branden, what did you do instead of a rebuild on your RAM? I'm having the same issue with my 2010 RAM R/T with only 81k miles..
what cam and lifter did you replace with the part numbers please
Oem, unsure part #
is it holding up I worry about replacing with same part number that went bad hope dosge has the part fixed now
Car was sold a week or two after it was fixed. Not sure on a permanent fix on these. It will more than likely go bad again. Maybe a high volume oil pump would improve longevity???
How were the cam bearings?
was it throwing a code for a camshaft position sensor
No camshaft position sensor error code. Misfire code P0303, slight engine knock and misfire at idle.
yeeah it all adds up, i,m doing a 91 350 heads and by the time u get all the parts, it gets expensive. both heads getting worked, 250.00
My 2012 ram 1500 has the same thing just cylinder 6. Can’t believe the number of people that have the same issue and dodge dose nothing about it. Repair cost-$3500 about $600 if you can do it yourself
If its under warranty they will fix it.
What was the milage on the motor?
I wonder if these engines will make 200.000 with the plastic timing chain tensioners.
Doing my lifters now at 211k miles. Cylinder 5 missfire worn cam lobe. 1 owner all original. Replacing with mopar parts. Only used penzoil platinum.
lets see the combustion chamber on the head , people have said it is not a true hemispherical chamber?
I made a special video for you showing the combustion chamber. Posted on my channel.
m ph Thank You Sir . First one I have ever seen
DID IT TURN OUT OK? HOW MUCH DID YOU SPEND?
Turned our just fine, this was some time last year. In the $400-500 range for parts
upgrade anything?
Went from a 7 cylinder to an 8
Greatest Comment EVER! LOL!
crissakes! after watching a dozen of these vids i am totally in lovr with my v12 jag. it has none of these fucked up flaws. 25 years old and still pulls 170 mph+ ;->
think again...dynoed at 477 at the rear wheels. it;s been breathed on quite a bit over stock and started life as a 6litre engine circa 1994.it would pull 158 in stock trim with only breather and exhaust mods. also...nigel now tops at 173 mph through the traps...1 mile run clocked. again....far from stock trim and lovingly taken care of and gets driven at least four days a week although i am no longer doing the commuter thing. when a jag engine tosses its usually because its owner spends more time polishing it than doing the proper services required but that is the cost of classic car motoring. not everyone can afford to have them worked on or have the know how to do it themselves.
my xjs has been a labour of love and quite the sleeper as it turns out which is no end of entertainment. i imagine that the 5.7 engine owners that have had these failures don't properly take care of their rides or treat them properly like ensuring proper engine warm up times....shutting them directly off after a hard run or overheating ...running them low on oil but when i look at the cam drive arrangement,that skinny chain and some of the other parts used i cant help but think the engine was raped by cost accountants.
at any rate...v12\s are what we do and xjs's are what we run. you can contact us at jaguar.racing.us at gmail dot com for pics.processes and parts ranging from suspension components to hand built and programmed ecu's glad to see at least some of the 5.7\s have turned out well.
How many miles on engine ?
150K. This seems like a common issue with these engines with high mileage.
ok thank you for the update i just bought a new challenger and was hoping that this was not a common problem with this engines... but from your statement this was a somewhat high mileage motor .... is this your own car ? the reason why i am asking wondering the service history on this engine ... because is see tons of people who do not change their oils wondering if this was a contributing factor
Old police car, original engine. Oil was changed every 5-6k, unsure on weather synthetic/blend or conventional.
thank you for the update .... going to use fully synthetic oil for my 2016.
would you happen to know if they corrected these problems for the 2016 models
+maldo72 Yes, new lifters beginning July of 2016, new timing chain/guide package was mid 2013
how much did parts cost
Depends on how in depth you go. If you do all new OEM lifters 16/cam, timing chain, gaskets, exc prob $1200-1500. You could use aftermarket stuff for $800-1000
All OEM dodge stuff I would probably say at least 1500-2000, maybe more. Don’t forget you need all new head bolts and head gaskets and all that as well
Going rate for basic repair at dealership is $4700+
is way more easy to work with engine off from transmission housing i take them off in a hour
I am always up for faster and easier ways to do things. Please make a video of your method so we can see how its done
mom Ramos: Please show us how you do that in an hour!!!
it is what happens when you build an engine out of parts made on a printer. disappointed to see this problem is not rare. so much for getting a hemi car.
The 2009+ Hemi engines have their issues. When they run correctly they are a lot of fun. Mind you this is a 150K engine with an estimated 12000 POLICE hours on it so its TIRED.
If anybody needs any info or help with their Hemi, feel free to ask me. I know a lot about them and I’m currently rebuilding one.
Make a video
You mean the common issues is bad lifters.
2009 thru 2011 5.7 hemis have a recall on timing set go to mopar website click on MY VEHICLE-----> RECALLS---> VIN# enter your vin and scroll down to see if there are any open recalls on your car. No questions. Dealer will honor it. Just brought my recently acquired RT 225K miles. they did the recall. now I also did not know about until I had a p0305 code which turned out to be bad lifter/cam
you need to take your car to your local dodge dealership to see if your is cover under p01 recall dealing with the engine timing chain/tenisoner /guide
its a 150K engine. Already fixed
I own a 2010 Dodge Charger with the 5.7L Hemi engine with 67K miles. I keep this car in mint condition and on the recommended (dealership) maintenance schedule. Just had this happen in April 2016 on a normal drive from Columbia, SC to Birmingham, AL. Had the vehicle repaired for four thousand seven hundred ($4700.00) dollars at Hendrick Chrysler Dodge dealership in Birmingham, AL. The dealership made no mention of RECALL P01. I submitted my receipt to FCA on July 7th 2016 over seventy (70) days ago for reimbursement. Sadly, they'd only begun to take action after I called four (4) times to customer service. Customer service offed me an apology and approximately one hundred seventy ($170.00) dollars. I rejected the offer from customer service and my case #29655953 has been assigned to a case manager .... I'm a former Jeep Grand Cherokee, Stratus (both limited editions) and now a Charger owner..... hmmmm can a brutha' get a break :-(
No way I would put that engine together without putting the block in a machine shop to clean all the metal from the cam and lifter.
I hear ya, BUT dealers are doing this as a repair under warranty like this
Thanks to NAFTA! 😤
30,000 for a 80,000 mile truck,, just sad, very sad.
no abia k desarmar todo el frente puñetas
Dodge 5.7 hemi is the biggest piece of shit ever built. Absolutely disgusting. Never ever will dodge will be in my garage. Never.
Ha, don't disagree. I buy them broken for 10 cents on the dollar.