The fuel line, is callled a "bump stop" it stops the bottom out effect where the rolling energy is increased by the bottoming out. You are basically adding an integrated bump stop, something that most decent coil over manufacturers on real cars do.
Most off-road shocks (King, Fox, Sway-away etc.), do not have an internal bump-stop. Since they don’t they rely on a separate bump stop and/or limit straps.
I know this video has been out a while but yes this helped out a ton now I can't even hardly get my slash to roll over. Thanks for the tip. And if people want to know I used 1/4 inch fuel line on each shock with 50w oil.
Cool upgrade.. I appreciate what you are doing for your sons. I did the same thing only I started then on Tamiya kits the way I did and that way they built the whole car. I got them their first nitro in 08 which was the Tmaxx and they were able to strip the car and rebuild without looking at the manual. I wanted them to understand the concept on an engineering standpoint before they got RTR that was race ready. I wish Traxxas had a kit but in today’s world where everyone’s busy they don’t have the time nor patience to truly learn the way I did in 1983 when I started. I’m my opinion if you want to teach your children mechanical inclinations then get them a Tamiya or Kyosho and when they are ready to race at that level then get them a Traxxas. Great video thanks for the tip!
For off-road on my 2wd vxl slash, I made the shocks more vertical, added some pre compression on the front and rear, sealed diff with diff fluid (but it seems to be not effective as fluid comes out of the casing super easily), lcg chassis, badlands tires, and it handles great on bumpy grass fields.
Awesome video, I've been playing around in this hobby for over 30 years and you not only helped my two wheel drive cars out, not just my Traxxas cars but I have been needing to figure out how to limit the travel of the rear shock for all of my RC motorcycles that I want to put piggyback car shocks in place of the stock motorcycle rear suspension. Thank you very much for making this video.
I just bought 2 Slash RWD cars for my daughter and I to start racing locally and since the class does not allow for any part upgrades, the shop said focus on tuning shocks. I bought heavier oil, but the half rebound seems like an incredible upgrade especially since these things just have insane amounts of body roll out of the box. I just rebuilt her Rustler (4x4) shocks, and I wish I would have found this video first. I might go back and set her shocks up like this. My E-Revo 2.0 VXL is the next on the list for some shock rebuild love.
Nicholas John i bet the guys in your area are already doing this and not telling anyone. Originally this class was designed to be cheap. Its still cheap with fuel line in your shocks ;)
I don't have any off road cars, I have the Losi 22s Summit Drag Camaro, and the Traxxas Drag Slash I got into R/C racing very recently because of the drag cars. But I have subbed to your channel because, of the enormous amount of information in your videos. I've heard of that shock trick before in one of the drag race videos, but I didn't know what it meant to have fuel line in your shocks. I knew there was oil in my shocks, but fuel line?? Well now I know what they meant, and how to do the upgrade. Thanks from a newbie to the R/C hobby.
The part I used to always break, is the drive shafts especially when I go 3s , and that’s mainly on the stampede 4x4 Vxl, but not any more I have steel mip cvds installed front and back
Did this to my 2wd rustler but I used the extra shock pistons and it worked perfectly. Also put the rpm 4x4 rear carriers on my rusty and they take a beating compared to the stockers
I was turned on to another cheap as nearly free upgrade to the 2wd Traxxas cars. Drill out the hole for the king pin in the caster block and steering knuckle to 1/8", use the rear axle pin as the new king pin. Haven't tried it myself yet, but sounds like it has some real potential. Aluminum caster blocks/steering knuckles are a worthwhile investment IMO, but not everyone wants to drop the cash on that. I'll have to give it a shot for testing purposes.
Lockdown spinning my setup is for both , I use a lcg chassis and in the shock i use one or two rod ends ball in the shocks . I drag race so it will bring your arm straight and make the car more stable.
When you first fill up the shock with oil it's said to be better to fill it half way so the bubbles get out more sufficient, and on the second time you fill it you do fill it all the way up..
Thanks for that. I have been wondering which oil weights I should be using when I rebuild my shocks. What do you use in the rear? If you dont mind me asking!!
My rear bearing carrier on my 2WD Rustler broke just the other day and this just so happens to show up in my recommended! I ended up replacing all 4 bearing carriers with aluminum parts from Atomik, so far so good!
the part about adjusting the rebound , something new to me and I think it could be very helpful I've been putting my shocks back together fully extended great tip thank you
Great channel ! My son Nate is a nut about Traxxas RC’s. He’s 9. I’m lucky to be his mechanic and enjoy doing it. He has a several different RC CARS, DRONES and others. Currently he’s running a Traxxas Rustler VXL 3500 brushless truck. My question to you is. Do you have any advice on much needed upgrades for best enjoyment? Your suggestion on tool manufacturers, tool set must haves? Most common part replacement? Parts to always have on hand? Best online store to order from? And lastly Your opinion/review on best choice RC for him Nate is also deaf, Autistic and ADHD. SO HIS SENSORIES are very elevated and his excitement is big time. He loves trying to jump it and burnouts. Oh yeah and of course speed! Hope you and yours have a very Merry Christmas
I have owned a Slash, Bandit, and I'm currently souping up my second Stampede. Not once have I broken a rear hub carrier. I have broken front steering and suspension components multiple times on each, however.
It’s called less droop and it allows more weight to be transferred to the front or rear of the car. Got my information from XXX Main Chassis Setup Guide.
roddas26 Na, Sag is how much drop in travel there is when the static weight of the car/person’s weight is on the chassis. The original comment is closer to what this mod is. Essentially limiting the overall travel of the shock.
Nice. Need to do that on 4x4 Rustler as well. I have it jacked up for all ways possible for clearance, and mad tight suspension for supercross jumps but now it just flips out at even the sight of a corner coming LOL.
So insane how similar to real racing this upgrade is !!! I do this same thing in my full size race car during practice to set up my car to specific tracks we call it Bump Stop !!! I have all different size pieces of rubber with also different compression rates of the rubber like softer or harder pieces in different sizes also ... I'm new to RC's and since ii finally have a son I'm just now getting into the hobby with my little man ! It's all the same concepts just on different scales ! Love it man great info . Knowledge is power sir 👍
I’ve done this to my Erevo V1 I make my shocks like yours. Me running on street and dirt no jumps. With the weight of the erevo what shock spring/oil would you recommend?
For those wondering, as o-rings have been mentioned- in the harbor freight oring multi-pack you’ll want the smallest o-ring A005 it’s 3/32”x15/64”x9/128” this will give a snug fit!
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I just got my 1st traxxas, rustler 2wd. Took it out for it's 1st test drive yesterday & noticed what you mentioned, easy to rollover when driving on the pavement. On the grass it performed excellent, no rollovers. But I prefer to ride on pavement, faster speeds & less clean up lol. Now, my traxxas came with this whole shock tuning kit. I believe that it has these little tube spacers that do that same function as the fuel line that you used. Unfortunately traxxas doesn't give you any additional information on what all these parts are & how to use them. But I definitely want to make this modification to the shocks. And thanks for the rebound tip, I wasn't aware of that. 👍 Update : So, I used those spacers inside the shocks, WOW!!! What a difference!!! Car stays flat on the ground & does 180° turns on the spot @ high speeds!! This mod lowered the height & stiffened the suspension. I was able reused the same stock oil, specially since the car is new. I believe traxxas uses 30W stock. Thanks a bunch, this mod made this car much more fun now. Still rides nice on grass too. Win win!! 👍
Yeah, that is a great mod, done to both mine and my son's Slashes, he gets the biggest benefit from this mod, as he doesn't modulate his throttle very well, and now doesn't roll nearly as much.
I have a slash 4x4 also, running the 4 pole valeneon motor and esc on 3s with big tires but I cant even drive but for maybe 10 minutes at the most before it over heats. Pretty sure the pinion gear is too big being as it's an 18/50. Just ordered a 12-16 tooth pinion gear set, hoping that will work. I literally FOUND a slash 4x4 and a ruckus ecx 2x4 along with two 3s lipo batteries, 2 nmhi batteries a spare set of tires and a bag full of replacement parts and pieces including a brand new spare valeneon motor and esc combo and a metal roll cage for the slash and 2 transmitters, IN THE DUMPSTER!!!! even found a nmh battery charger with it all also lol only money I have in all of it is some xt90 connectors, and a different TQI transmitter and a charger for the lipos.. I literally accidentally found a new hobby haha
No offense to this guy at all but what you are essentially doing is internally limiting the overall travel of the shock (on the rebound to be exact). This will indeed help with rollover since it makes the CG lower now. However, you’ve now got less overall travel. Also, for people asking if you can just add a spacer like the ones supplied for the outside of the shock: Yes, it will make for less body roll but you are now putting the CG higher making it even easier to rollover. Also, you now have stiffer suspension as a result (could be good or bad). The best thing to do is get the lower CG chassis or adjust where the shock attaches to the A-arm. This way you keep the most travel, you don’t have to change the spring-rate and you’re not trading one fix for the other. The truck to tuning is to isolate the “problem” and find a way to fix it without it affecting/effecting? Lol other characteristics in a negative way.
Thanks Mark, how did you come up with this solution? Just inerested in the story, i've heard of people putting the fuel line on the outside of the shock like a limiter, i think the stock 2wd has them on the rear shocks. Is this a different scenerio that im talking about?
Gotta have the droop though to properly use the physics of the suspension on jumps. The more throw a shock has, the more cusion it can provide on landing. Just thicken the oil on the car. It's way too light out of the box anyway. Then if that doesn't work you can get a sway bar kit for it or fashion one out of piano wire!😁
So the brakes cleaner will make the plastic look like new without the oil to attract dirt? And should you stay away from spraying it on anything specific..thanks and please respond
good tip. I think you actually mean it will "limit how far the shock will compress" not decompress. Compression is when the shock is under load, decompressed is when it is unloaded.
No actually he meant decompress. decompressed, the shock is shorter due to the fact that the piston cannot travel all the way to the bottom of the cylinder because of the hose on the shaft just below the valve. for it to work on the compression, the hose somehow would have to be put on the top of the shaft above the valve...but that does not make the shot shorter and does not help the problem of to much decompression on the inside wheel in a turn.
They have the blue frame that’s about $30 that make the handling better as well and these 2 together and be amazing. Also that antenna can be shorten to stay under the body and not stick out.
Do you do this to all your shocks? I have a traxxas slash 2wd myself and just bought some traxxas performance shocks the other day. Should I do this to them?🤔
I know there are so many SCTs out there but can a traxxas 4x4 race against the big dogs on a track and what must modification should be done to keep up/or beat them?
I was surprised when you revealed what breaks most often. As a 4x4 Slash owner, I was curious since I've been bashing mine for years. But I was surprised because those carriers have never been a problem on mine but mine came as a Platinum edition, meaning all four corners have Traxxas aluminum parts. Just figured I'd mention this if you don't mind laying out the coin, and want to fix it for good.
Personally, i have a 4x4 slash and i have never ever broke one of those and i have had mine for like 5 or so years. The gearbox tho, thats a different story
So you take away the ability to take turns at higher speeds so you have to deal with a gimped system as a learning tool. So what, you learn how to drive worse? Sorry but this sounds ass backwards to me. Surely not a race winning strategy.
@@zedorda1337 actually, softer suspension (= body roll) can be faster. It's just not faster if you flip over. If you had no suspension at all, the car would be almost impossible to flip but it would also have less grip so when you entered a corner too quickly you'd just start sliding.
No, adding more shock collars would add more compression and would exacerbate the roll-over problem he's trying to correct. He's basically lowering the car for cheap with this mod.
Hey, your videos are very helpful, can you show a current monster slash 2wd build, all videos outdated, tires discontinued? My sons and I are learning from ya!!! Thanks. CJ
This is what happens with improper suspension preload. You're forcing it into the proper suspension position and losing travel in the process. I would sooner cut the spring.
Hi, Try soaking the rear hub in WD40 for a couple of hours to make it more flexible. As for the fuel line, I would not recommend it for a spacer for inside the shock, it will break apart from bing under pressure all the time. I would recommend either a proper plastic internal shock limiter or silicone shock O-Rings.
So what happens if you combine the roll bars with the fuel tube trick? I ordered the wrong sway bar set, I need the larger ones for my VXL 2WD. This is my first RC truck and I converted it to a monster slash because the property terrain is really rugged here at the house. I think the shock setup is not right yet so I hope this helps the handling out. Sounds like it will since youv'e tested it over and over. Got lots of fuel line for my boats. Question I have is this: Does the shock fluid eat the fuel line over time?
"my wife gave me that you're a dork look" - I LOL'ed. I identify with this! I had to subscribe, bro!
Omg he said it and immediately pictured my wifes your a dork face 🤣😂 same here at the same moment ii hit subscribe
Wow, just wanted to say thank you so so much. It has totally changed how it was handling. Now my friends wanna know how I did it.
The fuel line, is callled a "bump stop" it stops the bottom out effect where the rolling energy is increased by the bottoming out. You are basically adding an integrated bump stop, something that most decent coil over manufacturers on real cars do.
Most off-road shocks (King, Fox, Sway-away etc.), do not have an internal bump-stop. Since they don’t they rely on a separate bump stop and/or limit straps.
I get your point though.
I know this video has been out a while but yes this helped out a ton now I can't even hardly get my slash to roll over. Thanks for the tip. And if people want to know I used 1/4 inch fuel line on each shock with 50w oil.
been searching for this, 1/4 inch in length that you left or 1/4 inner diameter line? thanks for your time
Cool upgrade.. I appreciate what you are doing for your sons. I did the same thing only I started then on Tamiya kits the way I did and that way they built the whole car. I got them their first nitro in 08 which was the Tmaxx and they were able to strip the car and rebuild without looking at the manual. I wanted them to understand the concept on an engineering standpoint before they got RTR that was race ready. I wish Traxxas had a kit but in today’s world where everyone’s busy they don’t have the time nor patience to truly learn the way I did in 1983 when I started. I’m my opinion if you want to teach your children mechanical inclinations then get them a Tamiya or Kyosho and when they are ready to race at that level then get them a Traxxas. Great video thanks for the tip!
Nice tip! if anyone has a hard time cutting fuel line even/equal JConcepts 2295 limiters work great as well
Justin with the better idea thank you sir.
Great tip I will have to this mine as I was told to buy the 4x4 chassis to stop the roll over as I have experienced at my local track. Thanks mate.
For off-road on my 2wd vxl slash, I made the shocks more vertical, added some pre compression on the front and rear, sealed diff with diff fluid (but it seems to be not effective as fluid comes out of the casing super easily), lcg chassis, badlands tires, and it handles great on bumpy grass fields.
Awesome video, I've been playing around in this hobby for over 30 years and you not only helped my two wheel drive cars out, not just my Traxxas cars but I have been needing to figure out how to limit the travel of the rear shock for all of my RC motorcycles that I want to put piggyback car shocks in place of the stock motorcycle rear suspension. Thank you very much for making this video.
I just bought 2 Slash RWD cars for my daughter and I to start racing locally and since the class does not allow for any part upgrades, the shop said focus on tuning shocks. I bought heavier oil, but the half rebound seems like an incredible upgrade especially since these things just have insane amounts of body roll out of the box.
I just rebuilt her Rustler (4x4) shocks, and I wish I would have found this video first. I might go back and set her shocks up like this.
My E-Revo 2.0 VXL is the next on the list for some shock rebuild love.
Nicholas John i bet the guys in your area are already doing this and not telling anyone. Originally this class was designed to be cheap. Its still cheap with fuel line in your shocks ;)
My 9 year old son and I just started racing spec slash here in Indy this year (January 2019). Thanks for the setup tip!
Landon Chapman we are based in Ohio and our first rc race car will be the slash
I just tried this shock adjustment and setup. Wow thanks a ton this really helped.
I do oval racing and it helped alot
I don't have any off road cars, I have the Losi 22s Summit Drag Camaro, and the Traxxas Drag Slash I got into R/C racing very recently because of the drag cars. But I have subbed to your channel because, of the enormous amount of information in your videos. I've heard of that shock trick before in one of the drag race videos, but I didn't know what it meant to have fuel line in your shocks. I knew there was oil in my shocks, but fuel line?? Well now I know what they meant, and how to do the upgrade. Thanks from a newbie to the R/C hobby.
The part I used to always break, is the drive shafts especially when I go 3s , and that’s mainly on the stampede 4x4 Vxl, but not any more I have steel mip cvds installed front and back
Mine came stock with o rings inside. Thanks for the fuel line idea it's working great.
Did this to my 2wd rustler but I used the extra shock pistons and it worked perfectly. Also put the rpm 4x4 rear carriers on my rusty and they take a beating compared to the stockers
Thank you for the tip, my Bigfoot 1 (stampede) rolls over a lot. Hated filling shocks now I know where I was messing up, thanks
I was turned on to another cheap as nearly free upgrade to the 2wd Traxxas cars.
Drill out the hole for the king pin in the caster block and steering knuckle to 1/8", use the rear axle pin as the new king pin.
Haven't tried it myself yet, but sounds like it has some real potential. Aluminum caster blocks/steering knuckles are a worthwhile investment IMO, but not everyone wants to drop the cash on that. I'll have to give it a shot for testing purposes.
Huh. Antenna tube would work too. 👍🏼. Great idea.
I use the rod end ball for my shocks . Fuel line still have give . The ball from the rod end take out the guess work. But thats a great tuning trick.
Lockdown spinning my setup is for both , I use a lcg chassis and in the shock i use one or two rod ends ball in the shocks . I drag race so it will bring your arm straight and make the car more stable.
Do the ball ends add more weight vs the thin tube?
When you first fill up the shock with oil it's said to be better to fill it half way so the bubbles get out more sufficient, and on the second time you fill it you do fill it all the way up..
I use small o rings so it’s more precise!
60-70 weight oil works for my SCT’s in the front. Without losing wheel travel.
Thanks for that. I have been wondering which oil weights I should be using when I rebuild my shocks. What do you use in the rear? If you dont mind me asking!!
Nice tip on the bladder suction technique. Thanks. I dont run traxxas much anymore but a good tip all around.
My rear bearing carrier on my 2WD Rustler broke just the other day and this just so happens to show up in my recommended! I ended up replacing all 4 bearing carriers with aluminum parts from Atomik, so far so good!
the part about adjusting the rebound , something new to me and I think it could be very helpful I've been putting my shocks back together fully extended great tip thank you
Great channel ! My son Nate is a nut about Traxxas RC’s. He’s 9. I’m lucky to be his mechanic and enjoy doing it. He has a several different RC CARS, DRONES and others. Currently he’s running a Traxxas Rustler VXL 3500 brushless truck. My question to you is.
Do you have any advice on much needed upgrades for best enjoyment?
Your suggestion on tool manufacturers, tool set must haves?
Most common part replacement?
Parts to always have on hand?
Best online store to order from?
And lastly
Your opinion/review on best choice RC for him
Nate is also deaf, Autistic and ADHD. SO HIS SENSORIES are very elevated and his excitement is big time. He loves trying to jump it and burnouts. Oh yeah and of course speed!
Hope you and yours have a very Merry Christmas
Awesome tips , thank you for that my friend. 🤙 subscribed!!
I have owned a Slash, Bandit, and I'm currently souping up my second Stampede. Not once have I broken a rear hub carrier. I have broken front steering and suspension components multiple times on each, however.
It’s called less droop and it allows more weight to be transferred to the front or rear of the car. Got my information from XXX Main Chassis Setup Guide.
We call it sag in the mtb world.
roddas26 Na, Sag is how much drop in travel there is when the static weight of the car/person’s weight is on the chassis. The original comment is closer to what this mod is. Essentially limiting the overall travel of the shock.
@@cencoast_7.340, I wasn't correcting the OP just saying that with Mountain Bike suspension it's called sag. Which it is. Cheers
Nice. Need to do that on 4x4 Rustler as well. I have it jacked up for all ways possible for clearance, and mad tight suspension for supercross jumps but now it just flips out at even the sight of a corner coming LOL.
Thanks for sharing information for Traxxas 😊
Glad I got the platinum that comes with aluminum turnbuckles and sway bars stock
Thanks for the shock teardown
So insane how similar to real racing this upgrade is !!! I do this same thing in my full size race car during practice to set up my car to specific tracks we call it Bump Stop !!! I have all different size pieces of rubber with also different compression rates of the rubber like softer or harder pieces in different sizes also ... I'm new to RC's and since ii finally have a son I'm just now getting into the hobby with my little man ! It's all the same concepts just on different scales ! Love it man great info . Knowledge is power sir 👍
Thanks for that info about the shocks. I have been wondering how to take the body roll down.
Thank you the difference is night and day!
Good video. I've been doing this for years for all my cars if I had to much travel. Not with tubing but with O-rings.
I just remembered I have an o ring kit from harbor freight. Thank you!
Mark you seem like a good dude. Very easy to listen to, even for us dorks. Nice vid and tip!
Thank you! Will you do one on adding a center diff. to my slash?
Thanks Mark! I bought my first Slash VXL a few days ago and was trying to figure out how to get the sponge out of it.
Great content always enjoy your videos we all need to thank your wife for letting you share youre time with us😊
I've only ever broken front bearing carrier and caster blocks and instantly upgraded to rpm best investment lol
Very helpful as usual....thanks bro!!
The rear bearing carrier might only be a problem on the slash because I do 40-50 foot jumps with my 2wd stampede and have never broken one
its the same part
I’ve done this to my Erevo V1 I make my shocks like yours. Me running on street and dirt no jumps. With the weight of the erevo what shock spring/oil would you recommend?
Awesome Advice!!!! Thx! Side note. Wish you were able to zoom your camera in more. But again, this is AWESOME!!!
LMAO, my wife gives me that you a dork look all the time.
Ditto
My wife just flat out tells me lol
Thanks for making this video! Great mod! And learned that my Rustler shock build was lacking the "taco" method.
For those wondering, as o-rings have been mentioned- in the harbor freight oring multi-pack you’ll want the smallest o-ring A005 it’s 3/32”x15/64”x9/128” this will give a snug fit!
Just ordered fox edition slash vxl. Pumped. Down the road i'd like to do the monster truck conversion. So cool.
Thx brah. 5:29 lol- it’s all good when you label the oil bottle - no ER trip. 7:14 pay attention here
1:50 and 3:10 - You're welcome.
Cool video. Great info. And the hobby room is amazing... just got a 2wd slash vxl . So more slash stuff. Thanks.
Simple cheap upgrade. Was gonna buy better shocks now I dont have too. Thicker oil very little rebound works awsome. Thanks
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I just got my 1st traxxas, rustler 2wd. Took it out for it's 1st test drive yesterday & noticed what you mentioned, easy to rollover when driving on the pavement. On the grass it performed excellent, no rollovers. But I prefer to ride on pavement, faster speeds & less clean up lol.
Now, my traxxas came with this whole shock tuning kit. I believe that it has these little tube spacers that do that same function as the fuel line that you used. Unfortunately traxxas doesn't give you any additional information on what all these parts are & how to use them.
But I definitely want to make this modification to the shocks. And thanks for the rebound tip, I wasn't aware of that. 👍
Update :
So, I used those spacers inside the shocks, WOW!!! What a difference!!! Car stays flat on the ground & does 180° turns on the spot @ high speeds!! This mod lowered the height & stiffened the suspension. I was able reused the same stock oil, specially since the car is new. I believe traxxas uses 30W stock.
Thanks a bunch, this mod made this car much more fun now. Still rides nice on grass too. Win win!! 👍
Should I do it to my slash 2wd vxl on 3s?? I use it on a dirt track.
Yeah, that is a great mod, done to both mine and my son's Slashes, he gets the biggest benefit from this mod, as he doesn't modulate his throttle very well, and now doesn't roll nearly as much.
I have a slash 4x4 also, running the 4 pole valeneon motor and esc on 3s with big tires but I cant even drive but for maybe 10 minutes at the most before it over heats. Pretty sure the pinion gear is too big being as it's an 18/50. Just ordered a 12-16 tooth pinion gear set, hoping that will work. I literally FOUND a slash 4x4 and a ruckus ecx 2x4 along with two 3s lipo batteries, 2 nmhi batteries a spare set of tires and a bag full of replacement parts and pieces including a brand new spare valeneon motor and esc combo and a metal roll cage for the slash and 2 transmitters, IN THE DUMPSTER!!!! even found a nmh battery charger with it all also lol only money I have in all of it is some xt90 connectors, and a different TQI transmitter and a charger for the lipos.. I literally accidentally found a new hobby haha
Great video!
What motor and batteries do you suggest for a decent upgrade for this sct?
No offense to this guy at all but what you are essentially doing is internally limiting the overall travel of the shock (on the rebound to be exact). This will indeed help with rollover since it makes the CG lower now. However, you’ve now got less overall travel. Also, for people asking if you can just add a spacer like the ones supplied for the outside of the shock: Yes, it will make for less body roll but you are now putting the CG higher making it even easier to rollover. Also, you now have stiffer suspension as a result (could be good or bad). The best thing to do is get the lower CG chassis or adjust where the shock attaches to the A-arm. This way you keep the most travel, you don’t have to change the spring-rate and you’re not trading one fix for the other. The truck to tuning is to isolate the “problem” and find a way to fix it without it affecting/effecting? Lol other characteristics in a negative way.
The rpm ones are amazing haven’t broke one in a year
Thanks Mark, how did you come up with this solution? Just inerested in the story, i've heard of people putting the fuel line on the outside of the shock like a limiter, i think the stock 2wd has them on the rear shocks. Is this a different scenerio that im talking about?
The imma dork look 👀 lmfao bro I think majority of us can relate haha 😅
Skip to 5:00 to bypass the blah blah blah
I got the lcg chassis not sure I want to lower the chassis anymore than it already is maybe a sway kit would be worth it
this doesn't actually lower the car unless you overdo it. What it is actually doing is limiting droop.
Gotta have the droop though to properly use the physics of the suspension on jumps. The more throw a shock has, the more cusion it can provide on landing. Just thicken the oil on the car. It's way too light out of the box anyway. Then if that doesn't work you can get a sway bar kit for it or fashion one out of piano wire!😁
So the brakes cleaner will make the plastic look like new without the oil to attract dirt? And should you stay away from spraying it on anything specific..thanks and please respond
i love it and i am subscribed - thanks a bunch man! - great tips!! (i just got my first RC!)
You made a shock limiter, you can do it with the antenna tube also, it fits!
Wont that cause issues when bashing big jumps?
I have the tekno cvd and hub carrier kit with the M6 stub axle. It’s bomber.
I have a Traxxas Slash, how can keep it from parachuting, driving at it at full throttle 👍
good tip. I think you actually mean it will "limit how far the shock will compress" not decompress. Compression is when the shock is under load, decompressed is when it is unloaded.
No actually he meant decompress. decompressed, the shock is shorter due to the fact that the piston cannot travel all the way to the bottom of the cylinder because of the hose on the shaft just below the valve. for it to work on the compression, the hose somehow would have to be put on the top of the shaft above the valve...but that does not make the shot shorter and does not help the problem of to much decompression on the inside wheel in a turn.
Yep, this doesn’t limit up travel, it limits droop/down travel/rebound.
1:56 that’s why each one of my rc’s I buy them and then buy the aluminum parts for it.
What size fuel line did u use?
Great tip man. Thanks for sharing.
They have the blue frame that’s about $30 that make the handling better as well and these 2 together and be amazing. Also that antenna can be shorten to stay under the body and not stick out.
Do you do this to all your shocks? I have a traxxas slash 2wd myself and just bought some traxxas performance shocks the other day. Should I do this to them?🤔
I know there are so many SCTs out there but can a traxxas 4x4 race against the big dogs on a track and what must modification should be done to keep up/or beat them?
I was surprised when you revealed what breaks most often. As a 4x4 Slash owner, I was curious since I've been bashing mine for years. But I was surprised because those carriers have never been a problem on mine but mine came as a Platinum edition, meaning all four corners have Traxxas aluminum parts.
Just figured I'd mention this if you don't mind laying out the coin, and want to fix it for good.
The same for me accept mine aren’t aluminum. I have a 4X4.
Broke my rear carriers on the first day of use. Switched to aluminum
Could you add extra shock o-rings instead??
I’m fixing to upgrade my Traxxas slash 2wd to a GoolRC brushless motor and esc
What’s the best weight of oil you’re using for general use?
Personally, i have a 4x4 slash and i have never ever broke one of those and i have had mine for like 5 or so years. The gearbox tho, thats a different story
I normally take sway bars off. I like a bit of roll makes you learn to take the corners slower and accelerate smoothly.
So you take away the ability to take turns at higher speeds so you have to deal with a gimped system as a learning tool. So what, you learn how to drive worse? Sorry but this sounds ass backwards to me. Surely not a race winning strategy.
@@zedorda1337 actually, softer suspension (= body roll) can be faster. It's just not faster if you flip over. If you had no suspension at all, the car would be almost impossible to flip but it would also have less grip so when you entered a corner too quickly you'd just start sliding.
Is it kinda like the same thing as applying one of those shock collars that came with the truck?
No, adding more shock collars would add more compression and would exacerbate the roll-over problem he's trying to correct. He's basically lowering the car for cheap with this mod.
Good for high speed stuff , not so much for bashing or huge jumps , great mod when it serves your purpose though.
Hey, your videos are very helpful, can you show a current monster slash 2wd build, all videos outdated, tires discontinued? My sons and I are learning from ya!!! Thanks. CJ
This is what happens with improper suspension preload. You're forcing it into the proper suspension position and losing travel in the process. I would sooner cut the spring.
Exactly. This is only causing less suspension travel trying to fix a problem the wrong way.
Crazy I never replaced the carrier, more like the axle, the rear just snaps every time I use it kinda bummer that's why it sits now
Reminds me of volume space on a mountain bike shock.
Hi, Try soaking the rear hub in WD40 for a couple of hours to make it more flexible. As for the fuel line, I would not recommend it for a spacer for inside the shock, it will break apart from bing under pressure all the time. I would recommend either a proper plastic internal shock limiter or silicone shock O-Rings.
Awesome tip! Hope it helps with my armma senton!
Great vid, how do you choose how much travel you set on the shocks?
Traxxas now offers allow shock spacers I use about 5 mm or more .
Would the shock spacers that come with the slash help with body roll as well
Na, they will stiffen it up (yes, less body roll) but actually make the center of gravity higher/roll over easier.
Awesome tip man thanks
Thanks. Very informative. Liked and Subscribed.
So what happens if you combine the roll bars with the fuel tube trick? I ordered the wrong sway bar set, I need the larger ones for my VXL 2WD. This is my first RC truck and I converted it to a monster slash because the property terrain is really rugged here at the house. I think the shock setup is not right yet so I hope this helps the handling out. Sounds like it will since youv'e tested it over and over. Got lots of fuel line for my boats. Question I have is this: Does the shock fluid eat the fuel line over time?
Do you know what's wrong with steering , if it doesnt work when putting on a new servo ?
Is this only with "traxxas" shocks?? I have PL shocks on my slash.