A Dream Lens for Leica M-Mount Users! | Voigtlander APO-Lanthar 35mm F2 VM
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.ค. 2024
- Cosina Voigtländer has created some fantastic lenses that have been a great alternative and addition to many collectors' camera bags. After a number of years of bringing APO Lanthar lenses to various mounts, they finally introduced the 50mm and most recent the 35mm f/2 APO Lanthar.
How good is this lens and is it a must-buy? Watch our review and find out.
Thank you to Riceball Photograhy for loaning the lenses for the review: riceball.sg
Read the full review: geekcu.lt/37VSz6n
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#Leica #Voigtlander #Camera - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
I got the APO Lanthar 50 for my M10 R and will definitely pick up the APO Lanthar 35 as well. Thanks for the review 🥰
Thanks for watching Wolfgang and congrats on the 50
I own the 35, 50, and 75 APO's. Great Voigtlanders on my Leica SL2-S. Wonderful rendering.
Agree. Really good rendering for the price. Looking forward to the 50 F1
Absolutely agree with removing the chrome ring! Great review
Thanks for watching Marc
OMG, one of my favorite lens reviews... thanks!
Thank you!
I agree with all your findings. I shoot a M10-R and MP. I always bought 1.2/1.4/1.5 lenses before. This is the first f2 I have bought. Its so good its become my permanent 35mm. It especially resolves the resolution on the M10-R. In fact, I am going to purchase the Voigtlander 50mm APO now as well. I think I have developed a fetish for APO lenses ;)
Once you go APO it’s hard to go back. 1.4 lenses will be a thing of the past haha
Another great review! Having used the CV 35APO, I agree it is a very sharp lens and offers great value. I wonder if you found its rendering slightly clinical when paired with the current higher resolution M bodies. Nevertheless, love the objective approach in your reviews and it sure helps inform those who are looking to step away from native M lenses.
Thanks Clarence. I think most APO lenses will have a more clinical look to them. Lenses that are too corrected can look this way. Sometimes the imperfections in older lenses make for more interesting pics ;)
Love your capture of the blackbird on the bin. It shows the kind of OOF this lens can do wide open at the same time it delivers a scalpel like sharpness on focus! I have found mine to fringe on both sides of the focal plane but as you say, it's imperceptible even on a 100% blowup from 40Mp.
Thank you 🙏
Wicked lens... I also have the Summicron V2. Mine is an oldie- 1959.
Not sure of the year mine is. I think it’s the second version of the rigid.
I will probably consider it for my nikon z 7 II on the nikon mount. One question : what about protection against humidité and dust (no weather résistance is announced) ? Thanks
I have only used Leitz and Zeiss lenses on my M6 and M10. However, based on your review, if I ever need another lens, I will consider the Voigtländer.
Thanks for watching. Definitely a lens to consider
Thanks for sharing. Jan.
Thanks Jan
Great review of showing the control of CA as well as Bokeh, much appreciated! So happy to see voightlander giving us mere mortals access to this level of quality.
Thanks for watching
Great review and presentation, as always! I was wondering which lens would you choose for Lumix S1r, Voigtlander apo 35 or Sigma contemparary 35 f2? For me 3d pop is Most important, not the auto focus. Please recommend! Thank you in advance! Shahzad, Vienna
Thanks for watching, much appreciated. In my personal opinion I would opt for the Sigma 35 f2. It’s a stunning lens and performs beautifully on the S1R. The Voigtlander is also good but I feel the versatility of the Sigma is the deciding factor for me
Apo 35 check! Apo 50 check! Shooting both of them for some time now on the M11 and they are really stunning ✨👌🏼
Fantastic pair of lenses
Early Summicrons are a double-gaussian lens design. Can't go wrong with that.
Agree. Different look compared to APO.
Great review! Thank you. It seems to me that if you're shooting with a 100 megapixel sensor but cropping it for the lens coverage then you're not really using 100 megapixels. Anyway you cut it it's a fabulous lens though. I own it and use it on my M10-P. Also own the APO Lanthar 50 mm as well.
Thanks for watching. Had to crop as the vignetting was quite severe. Yes it’s a great lens though Voigtlander did a fantastic job with it
I’d be curious to know how the Voigtlander APO 35 compares to the Leica Summarit 35.
Prob the APO will be better
Thanks for the review. Does the lens transmit exif data to the camera?
Thanks for watching. No it doesn’t
Did you notice that this lens can be set to non-clicking aperture one to support video shooting too? In terms of resolution that this lens can handle, I tried on A7r4 with pixel shift to create 240Mp image and it is perfect. I am not sure, but it may just be a 61MP raw image nonetheless.
Didn’t know that about the aperture. Yes the lens is high resolving so wouldn’t be surprised about it’s performance. Impressive though regardless
Very impressive!
Indeed
Can its image circle cover the gfx sensor completely?
No it can’t. You will need to select the 35mm crop in the camera
I have the VL 35mm f1.2 v2 would the APO be a worthwhile upgrade I use it on a SL2-S thanks and great video
The m10-r black paint has a chrome shutter button 😁
The M10-R is a brushed metal button. It’s the same as the MP that I have in the video.
Good morning. I'm very interested in this lens, but you say it's more for 50mpx sensors, do you think it'll do well on my Leica SL2-s 24mpx sensor?. Thanks for your feedback.
Of course. I meant it can resolve 50 plus megapixel sensors. It’s not designed only for them. Anything less is more than fine
Not many APO lenses go faster than F2. I’ve wondered about this. Depending on the price, I’d like to pick them both up.
Supposedly the 50 1.4 Lux is an APO lens but not labeled, but I think f2 is prob a much easier and cost effective aperture to produce
@@GeekCulture that makes the 50 Lux a bargain. Not sure that I've seen the same level of performance from it compared to my APO 50 for SL though.
Hey! It's Bobby!
Great video! I’m extremely tempted to pair this with my sigma FPL. I’m curious if you’ve had a chance to compare it to Sigma’s own 35mm auto focus prime L mount lens. And I watched your video on the TTartisans 50mm 1.4, obviously a great value, but how inferior is it to the Voigtlander 50mm APO?
Thanks for watching. Sigma’s will have slightly more chromatic aberration vs this but it also has autofocus. This does pair well with the FPL though as The cameras focus peaking is very accurate. Voigtländer’s 50 APO is superior to the TT artisan I feel
@@GeekCulture Thank you so much for taking the time to reply. One of the coolest and least used features on the Sigma FPL is the QR code generator and scanner. Its a way for people to document and share camera settings with other FP owners. I would love if a reviewer such as yourself took their informative videos about the camera and took them up a notch by sharing the exact settings for different scenarios so that the viewers, who also own the FP or FPL, could attempt the same shots.
Great review. Looking forward to future reviews. 👉🆒
Thanks Alfred!
Resolving 100MP sounds tough, but… remember those 100 Million Pixels are of the same size as the ones found on the Fuji APSC cameras. They share the same pixel pitch, therefore the GFX100S has the same resolution demand as e.g. an XT3/4.
A crappy old lens can resolve 1000MP if the sensor is the size of a door😄
Haha very true
Your Version 2 Summicron was made between 1956 and 1968.
Yeah. She is a beauty
Are APO lenses useful for Analog Camera? Thanks
you will see more sharpness and less CA, however some prefer a more softer look for film. Just depends really.
Thank you
Sorry. I must have missed something. Is this a name change or your personal channel. Either way, I'm glad to find it. Greetings from Bukit Timah. 🤓
Hi! I’ve joined up with Geek Culture! Thanks for coming by :)
@@GeekCulture Congratulations ! And, of course, followed ...
The only thing stopping me is the (very) busy bokeh but of course it’s very personal ;)
Personal preference. Understand
The 35mm f/1.2 Nokton might be more up your alley then. I've had two of them (v1 / v2) and they're just *muah*.
i have the apo 50 and its great
Congrats
Hello. What do you think about Sony 35 1.4 gm? Voigtlander Colors better then Sony?
I love the new 35 1.4 GM. Fantastic lens. Color is hard to say as I didn’t test both lenses on the same body. I feel Sony’s color issue was more to do with the processor than the lens. The newer cameras have rectified this
You’re the best!
Thanks
Bene, grazie.
Thanks for watching
kool!
Put on a lens hood would hide away the bright chrome ring.
True but still the chrome ring isn’t necessary
The new QVC host lol
Lol!
I'm just curious on why, to yield what you call a "fantastic" image out of this lens you need to post correct it. I'm an old film shooter and ALL of my photos, taken with ANY of my lenses and cameras, if properly metered upon the film's fixed ASA (ISO), come out just FANTASTIC! No post editing, no post corrections, just bare developing and printing. Are all digital lenses this bad, including Leicas (I guess yes, since you state the Leica APO is only 5% better)? I'm just curious.
Thanks for watching. Photographers even from the film era dodged and burned their photos (edited them) to achieve a certain look. Yes properly metered images will negate some editing at times but if you want a certain look or feel that’s where editing comes into play.
@@GeekCulture Yes, I'm pretty much aware of film negatives "burning" in lab processing (there are hundreds of ways to undertake them either by combing different ratios of the chemical components in the bath solution, increasing the light exposure time on the photography paper (for stronger contrast) or even choosing special papers for specific results.
After all, I was a professional photographer for major fashion trade magazines during the 70's.
However, what I meant on my comments, is a completely different subject altogether.
For instances, I have noticed that most, if not all, the photos that you post edited in Lightroom "suffered" from tonal range adjustments in order to fix underexposed shadows, overexposed highlights and then correcting midtones contrast. Since the need for these post editing tweaks were absolutely not necessary for the average optimal rendering of film shots, one tends to take for granted that such film era commonality is perceived on today's digital photography as an exceptional achievement.
I am just guessing but perhaps such technical digital fallibility derives from the fact that digital camera sensors are capable to capture only about half of the 10,000 levels of light (from total black to total white) yielded by the human eye and the fastest silver nitrate emulsion on a film celluloid base captured the equivalent of today's digital measurements of 400 megapixels (There are not, to this date and to the best of my knowledge, any digital camera so powerful (except the Fujifilm GFX100, but restricted to a Pixel-Shift Multi-Shot mode by combining 16 raw images using FUJIFILM's Pixel Shift combiner software, which can then be output as a DNG file for further processing).
In 1957, my Kodak point-and-shoot all plastic tiny camera could do all that on-the-go for 10 bucks, not 10000.
Furthermore, regarding the massive technical discrepancies between the two photography processes, more than just a matter of fact that the ordinary flaws encountered on the majority of "as shot" digital photos led to the creation of dozens of photo editors, enhancers and correcting software.
During the film era, there was none.
Real mothers never give birth to clone siblings. It's about time for today's young generations of cameras engineers to close the gap of their absent history minded parameters of excellence to honor their only photography mother.
$$$ will follow as a natural aftermath.
Even after the introduction of the first commercial fully digital camera at 1988 Photokina by Fujifilm ( FUJIX DS-1P), 34 years ago, digital camera manufactures have not yet figured out how to combine the most critical elements for a practical error-proof IQ system to level up to those film era ones.
Finally, sirs, just for the record, in 1957 my dad, an Oscar Nominee Director, gave me for my birthday present a small, all-plastic, point-and-shoot film camera. 36 shots in a roll of film Just an OVF, a click button and a film rewind lever. ALL, and I mean, ALL, the photos came out just tack sharp and no need for any post tonal range editing. No menus, no fancy marketing gimmicks.
The art of photography during the film era was a true exercise of watching, feeling, framing and clicking and the cameras that helped me doing that I felt them as an extension of my own arms, not weird, clumsy computer bricks shaped as cameras.
90% of all historic hall of fame iconic photographs were taken with film. This is not my opinion. It is a fact supported by millions of admirers of
Ansel Adams (American 1902-1984) ...
Robert Capa (American 1913-1954) ...
Henri Cartier Bresson (French 1908-2004) ...
Man Ray (American 1890-1976) ...
Robert Frank (American 1924) .
Gee, I'm still curious, sirs.
Sirs, I left out from my previous comment another post editing technique very commonly used by professional photographers during the film era> The pushing or pulling process that involves shooting and developing film at a different ASA (ISO) than what the film is rated for.
Here is a summary of how this clever film tweak works out:
Push - Low light and shutter speed not suitable for handheld photos. Low light is the most common reason people push. As a guide, when shooting handheld with an SLR, it’s best to keep your shutter at or above 60th of a second. With a rangefinder, you want to stay at or above a 30th of a second shutter speed-for anything lower you should either use a tripod or push your film a stop or two.
Push - Creative effects - Pushing is a fun way to change the look and many people push B&W and color film to get more contrast and increased grain - the more you push it the more contrasty and grainy your photos will be. Color film will have more saturation and possible color shifts.
Push - An overcast day or the sun is going down. Shoot a 100-speed film and gain two extra stops (+2) by shooting at ISO 400 and develop it at ISO 400.
Pull/Push - You didn’t change the speed on your camera. You shoot 400 film at 100 ISO. Develop it at 400 (+2 Stops) and your photos should come out fine.
Pull - Sunny, bright, and high-contrast light. Pulling film reduces contrast and brings out details in the shadows.
Pull - Creative effects - Pulling film mutes colors and flattens the image with less contrast.
I am aware that all of these intended results can be also obtained in this digital era. However, not as easy and not as fast as the film pushing/pull technique, I presume.
By the way, I am curious, you, as fully acknowledged experts on digital photography, teach me how to "mimic" the push/pull film tweak in a digital camera, before post editing processes, please. Thank you so much, sirs.
So to resume, you do not need to spend your money on the too overprized Leica brand, neither Leica Lenses nor Leica Cameras ! I am so happy that I chose Sony A7RIV !!! I will get the Voigtländer 35mm 2.0 APO-Lanthar in Sony E-mount. Sony A7RIV (61Mp) = $3498, Leica SL2 (47Mp) = $6595 ! Not to mention the price of the Leica M 35mm APO... Save your money !
You are right you do not need to spend your money on Leica products but it’s a choice some choose to make. Nothing wrong with either. Having said that congrats on the A7RIV and the Voigtlander. Nice combo
Sorry, but I just can’t get over the chrome ring. Totally ruins the look of the lens imho.
Agree. All black is much better
graystillplays
Not even close to leica.
Haven’t tried the 35 APO from Leica so hard to say. Friends of mine that have it rave about the performance
@@GeekCulture its not only the performance but the value as well,
as usually a pleasure to listen to reviews of Yours . I wish see more action clips of handling gear outside . best wishes @georges_angeles
Thanks for watching.