Wow I am.so.glad I came across this because we're remodeling our bath and have installed a shower pan, dreamline, and will be laying lvp in the same direction as what you have. This will definitely work.
I too will be installing the dream line shower pan that sits in cement. Did you leave a 1/8 inch gap between the studs and the base? I watched a video where that’s what someone said to do to keep the base from cracking so it has room to expand when someone steps in on it. I’m not sure what to do my Carpenter says he thinks the gap would cause the base to crack. What did you do and how is your base doing after 10 months? Thanks
Great video! I used your video to plan for this work and after rewatching right now, I am literally going down to the basement DIY bathroom and doing the threshold. Thanks!
For the sake of not putting holes in your waterproofing and having to calk the holes and hope in a few years you don't have a shower in your downstairs hallway, just use waterproof construction adhesive, 2 birds.... plus it holds better than brads.
Thanks for vid, it's great. But next time, fill some buckets with water and place them in shower pan. Just ike you fill your bathtub before applying silicone
Absolutely, Denisa. I would definitely pick PVC over MDF any day. Between PVC and finger joint (for interior use at least) I'd just go with whichever is cheaper.
Wow you got that tearing easily toilet paper, your fingers must rip through when you wipe! But for real, thanks for showing me this I’m about to do the same thing now
Well, at least that piece appears to be PVC, I've ripped out at least two rotting wood moldings from in front of shower/tubs. ... I strongly prefer treating it like a larger sized caulking gap, using a backer rod and silicone.... Or, using one of those rubber-like transition/gasket sort of things.
Hey Dave thanks for the vid! I notice you have boards up next to your shower wall panels. Did you do anything to waterproof / flash the transition? I have ship lap on my walls and am wondering g how to run it into the shower wall panels
They are just unfinished cedar boards (I did a video on those too I think). I used them because they're rot resistant, and wanted them unfinished so it smells like a sauna. They still look good except for a tiny bit of greying at the top where the shower splashes off someone's head.
I have a hole next to my tub and vinyl flooring. I was planning on doing something like this to cover up the hole. Would you suggest this? And where did you get that pvc at? Ty
Thanks for watching :-) ... and no, you don't seal there because the shower walls "shingle" over the base so that water will always go to the inside of the pan. if you caulk the bottom gap, besides getting moldy, it could trap water, especially if you have a 3 piece surround wher water gets behind verticle seams.
Yes it does, Dominik, but 100% silicone is very flexible and apparently allows for enough movement. It's been over a year and still looks good---and there are huge humidity swings in there :-) Thanks for the comment!
The trim is actually nailed to the subfloor, and the 100% silicone stays flexible enough to allow movement. 4-14-24 This still looks as good as the day it was installed.
Thanks for this great video! Do you have a recommendation on the Cove Molding and Silicone caulking to use? I want to install this but my flooring is tile and grout. Will this work for me? (minus the nails)
Thanks for the question, Mike. The reason I used this method (which I probably should have mentioned) is because we have the floating vinyl floor, and the silicone/cove molding combination would still allow it to "float." If I were doing the transition between a shower and tile, I would first replace any damaged grout, and then just use silicone -- no cove (I usually buy GE 100% silicone). I hope this helps.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY How would it still be able to float if you put brads into it? Wouldn't that attach it to the subfloor? Not trying to give you a hard time, I'm having issues with water in the downstairs apartment seeping through the upstairs bathroom, and I'm trying to figure out the best way to address it.
@@paulr7719 yes, the brads are in the subfloor, so the trim itself is staying stationary with the shower pan, the flexibility of the silicone allows the vinyl side to still move. It's like how when you tile a floor, you don't grout the edges next to the bathtub etc., you fill them with sanded silicone so the tile can move.
The silicone is flexible enough that it still allows movement. The silicone and floor are still going strong, no cracking or buckling. Thanks for the comment!
Wow! This was the answer to my prayers! I searched and searched the web to find this! This is phenomenal!
Best thing I've used for that is self adhered white base cove, works wonders , no holes and completely water proof
Wow I am.so.glad I came across this because we're remodeling our bath and have installed a shower pan, dreamline, and will be laying lvp in the same direction as what you have. This will definitely work.
Glad it was helpful!
I too will be installing the dream line shower pan that sits in cement. Did you leave a 1/8 inch gap between the studs and the base? I watched a video where that’s what someone said to do to keep the base from cracking so it has room to expand when someone steps in on it. I’m not sure what to do my Carpenter says he thinks the gap would cause the base to crack. What did you do and how is your base doing after 10 months? Thanks
@@lillithjones993 I had someone knstall.it. so unsure if they did.
I really like the tape idea! Thanks for the tips.
Thanks for the kind comment!
Thank you for the great idea of using the pvc cove molding. I have a large gap between the flooring and my bathtub. 👍
Thanks for watching, Mary!
I've lost sleep over this! Thanks👍
Great video! I used your video to plan for this work and after rewatching right now, I am literally going down to the basement DIY bathroom and doing the threshold. Thanks!
Thanks. All the best on your project!
And it worked great!@@FamilyFriendlyDIY
@@douglassackett6838 glad to hear, Douglas :-)
Just want I needed, it took me 3 years
Thanks
Thank You for sharing. I will be passing this video on to my Hubby.
I used a different pvc trim & would have sanded the ends lightly & had someone stand in the shower while siliconing. Great idea
Good job. Doing the same myself now in my bathroom.
For the sake of not putting holes in your waterproofing and having to calk the holes and hope in a few years you don't have a shower in your downstairs hallway, just use waterproof construction adhesive, 2 birds.... plus it holds better than brads.
Thanks for the tip, Craig.
Thank u for this! This looks great!
Thanks for watching :-)
Very nice video!
Thanks!
Thank you too!
Great video thanks
Thanks for vid, it's great. But next time, fill some buckets with water and place them in shower pan. Just ike you fill your bathtub before applying silicone
Thanks, need this.
Thanks for watching :-)
Thanks a lot for this, amazing advice. Can I use PVC trim also around my room with Vinyl Flooring instead MDF? Please advise, thanks a lot.
Absolutely, Denisa. I would definitely pick PVC over MDF any day. Between PVC and finger joint (for interior use at least) I'd just go with whichever is cheaper.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY, Thanks Dave for your kind advice, I appreciate it.
Wow you got that tearing easily toilet paper, your fingers must rip through when you wipe!
But for real, thanks for showing me this I’m about to do the same thing now
Great video, exactly what I needed. What was the size of the cove molding you used?
Thanks, Brad. It was 3/4 inch.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I need one that is a little over an inch wide - inch and an 8th at least. . I'm having trouble finding the right size.
Well, at least that piece appears to be PVC, I've ripped out at least two rotting wood moldings from in front of shower/tubs. ... I strongly prefer treating it like a larger sized caulking gap, using a backer rod and silicone.... Or, using one of those rubber-like transition/gasket sort of things.
Hey Dave thanks for the vid! I notice you have boards up next to your shower wall panels. Did you do anything to waterproof / flash the transition? I have ship lap on my walls and am wondering g how to run it into the shower wall panels
They are just unfinished cedar boards (I did a video on those too I think). I used them because they're rot resistant, and wanted them unfinished so it smells like a sauna. They still look good except for a tiny bit of greying at the top where the shower splashes off someone's head.
I have a hole next to my tub and vinyl flooring. I was planning on doing something like this to cover up the hole. Would you suggest this? And where did you get that pvc at? Ty
As long as the hole is small enough to be covered with some overlap. I got the PVC molding at either Lowe’s or Home Depot.
do they make pieces like this for tubs that have slight curves at the bottom?
this type of trim is flexible and will conform to a slight curve, give it a try.
By sealing the top and you're not giving the planks the chance for expansion?
The silicone stays flexible to allow movement. The floor and threshold still look as good as the day installed.
Awesome
Thank you for the video! I have an important question. Are we not supposed to seal in side the shower where the floor meets the walls? 0:04
Thanks for watching :-) ... and no, you don't seal there because the shower walls "shingle" over the base so that water will always go to the inside of the pan. if you caulk the bottom gap, besides getting moldy, it could trap water, especially if you have a 3 piece surround wher water gets behind verticle seams.
Is this LVP? Doesn't it needs to expand/contract?
Yes it does, Dominik, but 100% silicone is very flexible and apparently allows for enough movement. It's been over a year and still looks good---and there are huge humidity swings in there :-) Thanks for the comment!
I want to do the same thing but worried about the same thing
doesn’t the vynal floor need expansion room? if you caulk and nail the trim won’t it cause your vynal to lift?
The trim is actually nailed to the subfloor, and the 100% silicone stays flexible enough to allow movement. 4-14-24 This still looks as good as the day it was installed.
You caulked both top and bottom to shower and floor, does this still allow floor to float?
Yes. Since this is 100% silicone, it stays flexible. The joints still look good today.
Wouldnt this not allow expansion since everything was "glued" together?
The silicone remains flexible. It's all still entact and looks good.
Nice!
Thanks!
Thanks for this great video! Do you have a recommendation on the Cove Molding and Silicone caulking to use? I want to install this but my flooring is tile and grout. Will this work for me? (minus the nails)
Thanks for the question, Mike. The reason I used this method (which I probably should have mentioned) is because we have the floating vinyl floor, and the silicone/cove molding combination would still allow it to "float." If I were doing the transition between a shower and tile, I would first replace any damaged grout, and then just use silicone -- no cove (I usually buy GE 100% silicone). I hope this helps.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Thanks for the reply! I used Seal-A-Crack Tub surround tape with Silicone. Hopefully it stands up!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY How would it still be able to float if you put brads into it? Wouldn't that attach it to the subfloor? Not trying to give you a hard time, I'm having issues with water in the downstairs apartment seeping through the upstairs bathroom, and I'm trying to figure out the best way to address it.
@@paulr7719 yes, the brads are in the subfloor, so the trim itself is staying stationary with the shower pan, the flexibility of the silicone allows the vinyl side to still move. It's like how when you tile a floor, you don't grout the edges next to the bathtub etc., you fill them with sanded silicone so the tile can move.
Others videos did not silicon floor due to expansion contraction of vinyl plank flooring…..
The silicone is flexible enough that it still allows movement. The silicone and floor are still going strong, no cracking or buckling. Thanks for the comment!
Where did the pvc come from?
Home Depot or Lowe's (can't remember which), A R.
How does it allow th floor to expand or move?
Silicone is a "soft" joint. It stays flexible to allow expansion and contraction.
What did you end up doing to finish your exposed studs on the sides?
That is actually cedar plank, not studs. I surrounded the shower in cedar for a fragrant sauna type feel. … in another video. Thanks for the comment.🙂
Oh good idea
Oh good idea
Oh good idea
Oh good idea
You sealed the base too and now What about you brazilian floating floor moves ?
I figure the silicone has plenty of flex for that. It's been 11 months and so far so good. Thanks for the comment Jumabay!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY 👍
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY it’s been another 12 months, how we looking? Any issues holding with floor expansion???? Lol. This was my concern
@@Mz-ns5ke nope. Still doing good. 👍🏻👍🏻
Do you think this is worth while on the threshold outside of a bathtub on tile floor?
I usually just apply silicone at the tub/tile joint. No trim piece.
Spray that with soapy water...it'll save you a roll of TP
Also, dipping your fingers in rubbing alcohol before touching the silicone keeps it from sticking all over you. :)
Nice job. I quacked up when I saw the ducks....sorry
Tough toilet paper. Thank you for the tip
:-)
Way too much caulk! The caulk will soil and discolor on the piece caulked in. Too bad.
Thanks for the feedback, Karen.
It’s a very helpful video. I’m definitely taking some advice from it, just using caulk to seal and not spread. 👍
Lol ya this guy went a little crazy with the caulk
Wipe off caulk with alcohol.
OY
You lost my respect when you put nails in plastic in a waterproof required environment. That is a fail.
They're galvanized and covered in silicone.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY regardless, nail + plastic = Fail.
5200 will nuclear the seal.
What an awful job first off who leaves such a huge gap like that , I doesn't need to ve that much of a gap
I disagree. The was a perfect gap. Especially since several boards ended there and they all lined up.
Spray a little glass cleaner on it, and it won't stick to your fingers. Soapy water is alright, too. Also, generally less is more. Nice job, though