Thanks. I appreciate that. Drywalling is actually my least favorite task to do. I’m glad you found my video. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe
This is extremely helpful. I really appreciate it. not only did I have this question and couldn't figure it out but I saw this question on many many other videos that didn't cover the level detail that you did . Thank you so much
Thanks for watching. Glad it helped. Please like and subscribe. That’s why I made this video because I scoured the internet for weeks before finding this solution so I figured I would show it better then the other vague videos on TH-cam.
Thanks for the level of detail with close up shots that brought so much clarity! I'm giving some thought to a thin bead of caulking in the place of the spray adhesive (with maybe a few staples) for securing the strips, to honor the lung challenges.
You’re welcome. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe. As for your adhesive choice, may I suggest the brand no more nails construction adhesive. It’s a clear glue with instant grab so you can also skip the staples.
Thanks for taking the time to respond and provide valuable input from your broad knowledge and experience base regarding the adhesive. I will follow your advice. And I will return for more research. I have a ton of projects. Maintaining a home is a serious endeavor at many levels. Thanks for sharing what you know, in such a helpful way. Successes build confidence!
You’re welcome. I always love hearing from my viewers. And yes it is quite an adventure. There is always something on the to do list. My next project is insulting the attic. That will be in about 5 weeks from now. So stay tuned for that if you think it may help.
@@BillOfAllTrades2016 Just curious, what are some of your favorite attic insults? I usually go with, "Why are you so cold?" and "Why don't you get a job?" But those are getting old. Looking forward to your response so I can spice it up a bit. Thank you!
Thanks for the video I am really glad I found it. You also installed a Bootz Nextile surround. I'm a newbie but courageous diyer who's having a dilemma with the shower side drywall. Specifically where the surround tab sticks out past my alcove depth (30"). I planned on using a Schluter tile trim but was wondering what you did. Thanks for showing me that plastic trim edge, that's perfect!
Thanks for watching. Glad I could help. I used an oscillating multi tool to cut the overhang flush with my corner wall then sanded the edge a bit to smooth it and round it a bit. I actually haven’t finished it up yet. But if you buy a small t shaped schluter tile trim strip and slide it in the gap and glue it down it may look nicer. I’m going to look for some low profile vinyl quarter round and glue it over top of the seam just to hide it as another option. Theoretically any flat vinyl or plastic or pvc bead can simply be glued over the seam. Hope this advice is what you are looking for. Please like and subscribe
Why not sand and paint before tearing off the strip? Then you could paint neatly into the corner, or at the very least, prime, so that you only have to caulk and finish paint after the tear-off. Also, is that paint 100% silicone / paintable?
The method in the video is the way the manufacturer tells us to do it. If the manufacturer states this way and it works, why try it another way? They obviously tested the best way for their product to work. For the silicone to be paintable you need to check the label on the caulk before you buy. Some are paintable. Some are not. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe
That would also work. I however prefer the premixed stuff. Whatever works for the person applying it. End result will be the same. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe
I’ve seen people do it without corner beads as well. I’m not at that master level though. I’m simply a DIYer so putting a bead makes the install easier
Thanks for the tutorial. One question, though. Did you use non-paintable 100% silicone white caulk on the gap between the drywall and the tub surround? How did your paint job turn out? Silicone caulk is the best for waterproofing and mold and mildew resistance, but can't be covered properly with acrylic paint.
Thanks for watching. Yes I used 100% silicone caulk. The paint job turned out ok for my liking. The paint I used is white with a hint of grey tint so it’s not too far off from the caulk color. As I painted it would actually bead up on the caulk and not dry. But barely noticeable. thinking back I suppose I could have painted first then caulked for better results Hope your project turns out well. Please like and subscribe.
I have water damage on the drywall above my shower, I was thinking about cutting out the part thats damaged ( about 2-3 inches above the tub where it meets the drywall ) and installing new mold/water resistant drywall, putting tape and mudding it, then doing what you did here. Would that be a good way to tackle the situation? Although I'm not sure if the mold grew onto the studs but if it did could I just apply some bleach to kill it? Thanks in advance
I prefer to cut about 6 inches above the tub. If you try to screw in a 2 inch strip of drywall it will most likely break. The 6 inch piece will make it easier to attach to the studs. And yes I would advise mold resistant drywall. If there is mold on the studs you can put bleach into a spray bottle and mist it. Then wipe it clean. Then must it thoroughly and let the bleach dry and soak in then install your drywall and mud.
I used a corner bead because it’s better at covering imperfections. I always face my cut edge to the corner so the corner bead hides it. I tried just using caulking instead one time and over time I found it would start to peel. A corner bead has better permanent results and presents a better finished product. If you use a corner bead with a plastic backing it will provide the protection you need. I hope this helps. Please like and subscribe
I just used standard drywall. And less dust drywall compound to keep the mess to a minimum. Thanks for watching. Happy renovating and be safe. Please like and subscribe
Anytime you mud a joint with drywall mud you can bet your bottom dollar that it will have to be gone over again with more mud because drywall mud shrinks alot.
Did you apply the drywall over the surround flange? I also have this trim since I couldnt find the 2 1/4 one, and I put the drywall right over the flange. Hope that will work OK
Yes. I put the drywall over the flange. I left a 1/8-1/4 inch gap between the drywall edge and surround finished edge. Your application will work just fine. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe
@@AyisyenNanDjaspora I got something similar from Home Depot also. I think they key difference is the piece that goes over the sheetrock is not as long, and I'm not sure if it will work for me.
Hello fellow Ontarian! I couldn't find the plastic trim nor the adhesive at Home Depot locally. What home improvement store did you find this at? Thanks ! Doing a shower next week and really glad I found your how-to!
Hello and good day. Thanks for watching. I purchased mine at home hardware in brantford. Glad you found the video. Hope the Reno goes well. Please like and subscribe
If you have a plastic shower enclosure with a flange all the way around, can you do it the same way or do you need the 2.5" L tear away bead? It seems impossible to find
You would use this size as shown in the video. This will fit any application of a finished edge regardless of thickness. When I searched for the tear away L Beads it took weeks to find. I finally found them at a local store called Home Hardware. In my research I could only find the ones shown in the video. I’m pretty sure there is only one size. The only difference is the length. Thanks for watching. Hope this helps your project. Please like and subscribe
You will be screwing the drywall to the studs. Avoid screwing it into the fiberglass as it will crack it. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe
For The outside corners and inside corners I used a paper corner bead with plastic backing and used my spray adhesive to attach it. Thanks for watching. Hope it turns out well. Please like and subscribe
I used Easyfil Dust Away drywall compound. It was the premix in a bucket with a light turquoise lid. Can be purchased at any hardware store that carries Easyfil brand. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe
@@BillOfAllTrades2016 Doesn't look like a consumer like myself can just buy a small amount of this for a small bathroom job. Any suggestions on how I can get ahold of the tear-away bead otherwise?
Are those in Canada only. I don't believe any of those stores are located in Ohio. The main big hardware store chains here are Home Depot and Lowe's I do not believe they are listed as dealers for trim tex supplies.
A lip and a flange is the same thing. The drywall is place over top of the flange where it’s screwed to the wall. What region do you live in? We are in southern Ontario and we bout our beads from home hardware.
@@BillOfAllTrades2016 ok, so placing over screws and leaving a small place for some sort of l trim. Hopefully a tear away to assist me! I’m in California I’m calling all around to find trim-Tex but not looking good. Looking for any other tear away but seems they are not in the market here as much
just a quick question is mold and mildew drywall necessary throughout the bathroom or just around the exterior of the tub/shower area? having a heated debate...lol
Mold resistant drywall is generally only necessary around the tub surround area where water may come into contact with it. The only time you should use mold resistant drywall on the entire bathroom would be in a bathroom with no exhaust fan where the steam from a hot shower would linger for a long time. Hope this helps shed light on the debate. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe
Do you have a video on your boots tub and surrond installation? Did you go directly to the studs or did you install it directly to a greenboard or cement board?
Unfortunately I do not have a video for the install. I tried filming and at the end of the install I realized my camera died part way through. I installed directly at o my studs. I ripped all the drywall out. It is supposed to be attached direct to stud. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe
@@BillOfAllTrades2016 will do, thank you. Were you satisfied with the install and would you do another one or go with something different? I've seen videos where ppl say the back wall isn't straight and you loose some space in the tub due to the niche sticking out.
I really love this shower surround. Even a year and a half later it’s still great. Never had an issue with the install. As long as you use a level to make sure it’s straight then you will be ok. And at first the niche shelf does stick out a lot and I was worried about it being annoying. But I got used to it fairly quickly. I no longer have an issue with the shower being more narrow. And I have long arms and wide shoulders. I recommend it 100%
I’m confused about the drywall. My Nextile surround is installed directly on the studs. Once the drywall is installed (1/2” thick) it will be sticking out further than the lip on the surround. Is this the way it’s supposed to be? Not flush??
Mine was like that as well. The old drywall is 1/2 inch thick. So I came up with the solution to install 1/4 inch drywall around the edge so it sits lower and flush with the original wall. If that size reduction still doesn’t help, then you can also use thinner studs as well as 1/4 inch drywall to further drop the edge of the new patch. Thanks for watching. I hope this works for you. Please like and subscribe
That's the wrong profile...you used the short flange profile for like up against windows. The correct version is called Shower Bead and has a 2 1/4" perforated flange which easily bridges the gap around the surround. I just installed this same surround and used this same incorrect profile because that's all I could get without buying a lifetime supply of the unicorn Shower Bead.
This is the correct bead. I contacted the manufacturer directly and they suggested this bead for my application. This bead is for butting drywall up against any finished edge. Doesn’t matter if it’s against a window frame or shower surround. And if you need a 2 1/4 flange to fill the gap then you need to learn to use a measuring tape. I left only a 1/4 inch gap myself because I know what I’m doing. But I suppose there is always that one person that has to find the smallest flaw (in their opinion) in an otherwise flawless installation. Thanks for watching.
I've watched four videos on this subject and your approach is easily the most professional.
Thanks. I appreciate that. Drywalling is actually my least favorite task to do. I’m glad you found my video. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe
This is extremely helpful. I really appreciate it. not only did I have this question and couldn't figure it out but I saw this question on many many other videos that didn't cover the level detail that you did . Thank you so much
Thanks for watching. Glad it helped. Please like and subscribe. That’s why I made this video because I scoured the internet for weeks before finding this solution so I figured I would show it better then the other vague videos on TH-cam.
Thanks for the level of detail with close up shots that brought so much clarity! I'm giving some thought to a thin bead of caulking in the place of the spray adhesive (with maybe a few staples) for securing the strips, to honor the lung challenges.
You’re welcome. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe. As for your adhesive choice, may I suggest the brand no more nails construction adhesive. It’s a clear glue with instant grab so you can also skip the staples.
Best instructions of seen on this subject.
Thanks for the great feedback. Please like and subscribe
Awesome thanks for the demo. I have our shower to do and this will be very helpful.
Glad it was helpful. All the best in your Reno. Be safe. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe
Thanks for taking the time to respond and provide valuable input from your broad knowledge and experience base regarding the adhesive. I will follow your advice. And I will return for more research. I have a ton of projects. Maintaining a home is a serious endeavor at many levels. Thanks for sharing what you know, in such a helpful way. Successes build confidence!
You’re welcome. I always love hearing from my viewers. And yes it is quite an adventure. There is always something on the to do list. My next project is insulting the attic. That will be in about 5 weeks from now. So stay tuned for that if you think it may help.
@@BillOfAllTrades2016 Just curious, what are some of your favorite attic insults? I usually go with, "Why are you so cold?" and "Why don't you get a job?" But those are getting old. Looking forward to your response so I can spice it up a bit. Thank you!
Thanks for the video I am really glad I found it. You also installed a Bootz Nextile surround. I'm a newbie but courageous diyer who's having a dilemma with the shower side drywall. Specifically where the surround tab sticks out past my alcove depth (30"). I planned on using a Schluter tile trim but was wondering what you did. Thanks for showing me that plastic trim edge, that's perfect!
Thanks for watching. Glad I could help. I used an oscillating multi tool to cut the overhang flush with my corner wall then sanded the edge a bit to smooth it and round it a bit. I actually haven’t finished it up yet. But if you buy a small t shaped schluter tile trim strip and slide it in the gap and glue it down it may look nicer. I’m going to look for some low profile vinyl quarter round and glue it over top of the seam just to hide it as another option. Theoretically any flat vinyl or plastic or pvc bead can simply be glued over the seam. Hope this advice is what you are looking for. Please like and subscribe
Hell yea thanks for showing this. I’m bout to do this job in the next couple days.
Nice. Thanks for watching. All the best in your project. Please like and subscribe
If you use Sheetrock 45 or similar, aka hot mud, it won’t shrink. Do a first coat with that and then a finish coat with lightweight mud.
Excellent tip. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe
Thanks! Was about to have a panic attack over my shower 😱😱😱
I’m glad you found my video. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe
Why not sand and paint before tearing off the strip? Then you could paint neatly into the corner, or at the very least, prime, so that you only have to caulk and finish paint after the tear-off. Also, is that paint 100% silicone / paintable?
The method in the video is the way the manufacturer tells us to do it. If the manufacturer states this way and it works, why try it another way? They obviously tested the best way for their product to work. For the silicone to be paintable you need to check the label on the caulk before you buy. Some are paintable. Some are not. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe
I agree, I would sand and paint first, then apply silicone. Makes the most sense.
I would definitely use hot mud to coat that trim
That would also work. I however prefer the premixed stuff. Whatever works for the person applying it. End result will be the same. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe
Hot mud for sure.
Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe
I work for a major production builder....never once seen them use corner beade around a ahower sadly
I’ve seen people do it without corner beads as well. I’m not at that master level though. I’m simply a DIYer so putting a bead makes the install easier
@@BillOfAllTrades2016 i meant that the builders should be using corner beade... much better install imo!
Thanks for the tutorial. One question, though. Did you use non-paintable 100% silicone white caulk on the gap between the drywall and the tub surround? How did your paint job turn out? Silicone caulk is the best for waterproofing and mold and mildew resistance, but can't be covered properly with acrylic paint.
Thanks for watching. Yes I used 100% silicone caulk. The paint job turned out ok for my liking. The paint I used is white with a hint of grey tint so it’s not too far off from the caulk color. As I painted it would actually bead up on the caulk and not dry. But barely noticeable. thinking back I suppose I could have painted first then caulked for better results Hope your project turns out well. Please like and subscribe.
@@BillOfAllTrades2016 Apparently you can hit the caulk with some spray Kilz primer or similar and that will help the paint stick.
@@eddiemarano9998 ok that’s good to know. Thanks for sharing that tip. And thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe
@@eddiemarano9998yes use kilz on silicone caulk in order to paint it.
Otherwise, use acrylic caulk. It’s mold and mildew resistant and is paintable.
Nice video. Can you tear off the side you don't need before install? I'm getting close to this step in a few days or so.
You must leave that strip on during the install. Ripping that strip after is what makes the clean finish. Hope this helps. Please like and subscribe
Nice video
Thanks. Glad you enjoyed it. Please like and subscribe
I have water damage on the drywall above my shower, I was thinking about cutting out the part thats damaged ( about 2-3 inches above the tub where it meets the drywall ) and installing new mold/water resistant drywall, putting tape and mudding it, then doing what you did here. Would that be a good way to tackle the situation? Although I'm not sure if the mold grew onto the studs but if it did could I just apply some bleach to kill it? Thanks in advance
I prefer to cut about 6 inches above the tub. If you try to screw in a 2 inch strip of drywall it will most likely break. The 6 inch piece will make it easier to attach to the studs. And yes I would advise mold resistant drywall. If there is mold on the studs you can put bleach into a spray bottle and mist it. Then wipe it clean. Then must it thoroughly and let the bleach dry and soak in then install your drywall and mud.
Why do you use a corner bead? Would it provide more resistance to molding compared to not using it and just putting caulking? Thanks in advance.
I used a corner bead because it’s better at covering imperfections. I always face my cut edge to the corner so the corner bead hides it. I tried just using caulking instead one time and over time I found it would start to peel. A corner bead has better permanent results and presents a better finished product. If you use a corner bead with a plastic backing it will provide the protection you need. I hope this helps. Please like and subscribe
@@BillOfAllTrades2016 Thanks for the help, I've liked and subscribed 👍
Hi what kind of drywall did you use. Cement board or regular drywall. A reason why I'm asking is because I'm replacing the new fiberglass shower also.
I just used standard drywall. And less dust drywall compound to keep the mess to a minimum. Thanks for watching. Happy renovating and be safe. Please like and subscribe
Anytime you mud a joint with drywall mud you can bet your bottom dollar that it will have to be gone over again with more mud because drywall mud shrinks alot.
Yes you are correct. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe
You helped me out thanks
Glad I could help. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe
Did you apply the drywall over the surround flange? I also have this trim since I couldnt find the 2 1/4 one, and I put the drywall right over the flange. Hope that will work OK
Yes. I put the drywall over the flange. I left a 1/8-1/4 inch gap between the drywall edge and surround finished edge. Your application will work just fine. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe
Great video! Thanks
Thanks. Glad you enjoyed. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe
Is that Trim-Tex? Where did you find it? I'm struggling.
Yes it is. I got mine at home hardware. We are in Ontario Canada. Thanks for watching. Hope you find some. Please like and subscribe
They have this at home depot usa Florida, I just got the exact one. It is not trim tex
Ok. Ya every time I looked USA had them but here in Canada they only carry in one chain store. Thanks for the tip. Please like and subscribe
@@AyisyenNanDjaspora I got something similar from Home Depot also. I think they key difference is the piece that goes over the sheetrock is not as long, and I'm not sure if it will work for me.
Hello fellow Ontarian! I couldn't find the plastic trim nor the adhesive at Home Depot locally. What home improvement store did you find this at? Thanks ! Doing a shower next week and really glad I found your how-to!
Found the answer in the comments below! Thanks again!
Hello and good day. Thanks for watching. I purchased mine at home hardware in brantford. Glad you found the video. Hope the Reno goes well. Please like and subscribe
You’re welcome
If you have a plastic shower enclosure with a flange all the way around, can you do it the same way or do you need the 2.5" L tear away bead? It seems impossible to find
You would use this size as shown in the video. This will fit any application of a finished edge regardless of thickness. When I searched for the tear away L Beads it took weeks to find. I finally found them at a local store called Home Hardware. In my research I could only find the ones shown in the video. I’m pretty sure there is only one size. The only difference is the length. Thanks for watching. Hope this helps your project. Please like and subscribe
Another question, am I drilling drywall into tub surround or closest stud?
You will be screwing the drywall to the studs. Avoid screwing it into the fiberglass as it will crack it. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe
great video
Thanks. Glad you enjoyed it. Please like and subscribe
How did you treat the outside corner ? I am getting ready to install the same system and want to make sure it looks as good as the job did !
For The outside corners and inside corners I used a paper corner bead with plastic backing and used my spray adhesive to attach it. Thanks for watching. Hope it turns out well. Please like and subscribe
How much should this repair cost if I hired a contractor?
You would have to call a contractor and ask. A good contractor could give a rough over the phone quote for this job
@@BillOfAllTrades2016 what would you roughly quote it at?
I have no idea. I’m not a contractor
Did you use any special type of drywall mud or just something ordinary? Pre-mixed? Quick-set?
I used Easyfil Dust Away drywall compound. It was the premix in a bucket with a light turquoise lid. Can be purchased at any hardware store that carries Easyfil brand. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe
@@BillOfAllTrades2016 Doesn't look like a consumer like myself can just buy a small amount of this for a small bathroom job. Any suggestions on how I can get ahold of the tear-away bead otherwise?
Do you have a home hardware near you? That’s where I got mine. They sell them individually
Are those in Canada only. I don't believe any of those stores are located in Ohio. The main big hardware store chains here are Home Depot and Lowe's I do not believe they are listed as dealers for trim tex supplies.
Is the drywall placed on flange or on top of lip? Can I find these l beads retail? I’m doing myself as I couldn’t afford anything else
A lip and a flange is the same thing. The drywall is place over top of the flange where it’s screwed to the wall. What region do you live in? We are in southern Ontario and we bout our beads from home hardware.
@@BillOfAllTrades2016 ok, so placing over screws and leaving a small place for some sort of l trim. Hopefully a tear away to assist me! I’m in California I’m calling all around to find trim-Tex but not looking good. Looking for any other tear away but seems they are not in the market here as much
just a quick question is mold and mildew drywall necessary throughout the bathroom or just around the exterior of the tub/shower area? having a heated debate...lol
Mold resistant drywall is generally only necessary around the tub surround area where water may come into contact with it. The only time you should use mold resistant drywall on the entire bathroom would be in a bathroom with no exhaust fan where the steam from a hot shower would linger for a long time. Hope this helps shed light on the debate. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe
Do you have a video on your boots tub and surrond installation? Did you go directly to the studs or did you install it directly to a greenboard or cement board?
Unfortunately I do not have a video for the install. I tried filming and at the end of the install I realized my camera died part way through. I installed directly at o my studs. I ripped all the drywall out. It is supposed to be attached direct to stud. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe
@@BillOfAllTrades2016 will do, thank you. Were you satisfied with the install and would you do another one or go with something different? I've seen videos where ppl say the back wall isn't straight and you loose some space in the tub due to the niche sticking out.
I really love this shower surround. Even a year and a half later it’s still great. Never had an issue with the install. As long as you use a level to make sure it’s straight then you will be ok. And at first the niche shelf does stick out a lot and I was worried about it being annoying. But I got used to it fairly quickly. I no longer have an issue with the shower being more narrow. And I have long arms and wide shoulders. I recommend it 100%
@@BillOfAllTrades2016 awesome, thank you for the info. Subscribed.
Thanks
You’re welcome. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe
I’m confused about the drywall. My Nextile surround is installed directly on the studs. Once the drywall is installed (1/2” thick) it will be sticking out further than the lip on the surround. Is this the way it’s supposed to be? Not flush??
Mine was like that as well. The old drywall is 1/2 inch thick. So I came up with the solution to install 1/4 inch drywall around the edge so it sits lower and flush with the original wall. If that size reduction still doesn’t help, then you can also use thinner studs as well as 1/4 inch drywall to further drop the edge of the new patch. Thanks for watching. I hope this works for you. Please like and subscribe
Hi I’m stuck. What did you end up doing I have the same problem and way beginner and already bought 1/2” drywal
I bought 1/4 inch drywall to go around the surround and it will be flush.
@@BillOfAllTrades2016 maybe a dumb question but if using 1/4” drywall what day l bead should k be using ?
That's the wrong profile...you used the short flange profile for like up against windows. The correct version is called Shower Bead and has a 2 1/4" perforated flange which easily bridges the gap around the surround. I just installed this same surround and used this same incorrect profile because that's all I could get without buying a lifetime supply of the unicorn Shower Bead.
This is the correct bead. I contacted the manufacturer directly and they suggested this bead for my application. This bead is for butting drywall up against any finished edge. Doesn’t matter if it’s against a window frame or shower surround. And if you need a 2 1/4 flange to fill the gap then you need to learn to use a measuring tape. I left only a 1/4 inch gap myself because I know what I’m doing. But I suppose there is always that one person that has to find the smallest flaw (in their opinion) in an otherwise flawless installation. Thanks for watching.
Pro tip: cover your tub surround with plastic
Yes looking back that’s a good idea. Or perhaps frog tape could work as well. Thanks for the tip. And thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe
Where can i find the strip?
I got mine at home hardware. Hopefully this helps you. Please like and subscribe
Thanks for the tip. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe