@@vanman3752 I reckon that he’s smart enough to spend his money on the important things that either make your job quicker or easier and probably doesn’t waste it on alcohol, gambling etc or Uber Eats every day for lunches like the young guys I have to work with and constantly loan tools to, tradesman and apprentices alike. And no I’m not a churchie or a saint. Just don’t like wasting money.
I'm sure he charges for it. You get what you pay for. You don't see him working on tract houses and mobile home decks. Once your reputation is established at that level, you will always have work and you can price it for better margins than your competitors.
I've been working in the trade longer than Spencer has been alive, but I learn something every time I watch on of his videos. When cutting a line longer than my saw track, I drop the blade into the kerf of the first part of the cut (without turning the saw on) to align the track for the continuation of the cut. Just about foolproof.
You are an excellent teacher and video demonstrator. I also like that you explain your thinking and how you've changed your methodology over time based upon problems or time sucks experienced from old methods. Great work.
Same thoughts, love the details and improved processes , track saw has saved hauling out my table saw many times, often don't take it to job site unless needed. Great video.
I'm a retired master carpenter. When we fabricated fake beams in the 70s to mid 80s, we used better quality lumber. Our #2 pine back then had small knot 1/4" if any at all. We didn't have track saws and used tablesaws, glues were basic yellow Elmer's carpenter glue and hand nailed everything. Everything from the mid to late 70s until late 80s were Stain grade finish. No caulking...no putty, just meticulous craftsmanship. I wish we had track saws, and all the other fine tools that are available within the last 20 years. Btw, I was able to look at a project I did as a young carpenter in the 70s...the beams are still amazing looking. Better wood and able to do it correctly the first time instead of "hurry hurry production " with crappy wood never happened back then. You are definitely a skilled carpenter and I can tell you are passionate like me. Great work!
You do a phenomenal job of describing and demonstrating detailed processes of trim carpentry. I’ve basically been binge watching your content for the past few days. Thanks for setting the benchmark for what I consider to be the MOST useful tool as a tradesman, information. It saves an enormous amount of time and materials due to misguided trial and error.
I’ve watched 10 or more of these faux beam tutorials and this one is BY FAR the best. Much thanks for being so detailed! Excited to tackle this project on my own house.
When using a tracksaw I use a giant clothespeg style spring clamp on the far end in case it wanders off line,which tends to happen as the blade gets blunt or wants to follow the grain.The rubber grip strips are not foolproof
The times, they are a changing. Back in the day, I worked closely with a small mill shop to do most of this type of work, We would work in his shop to build the beams and then take them to the sirte to install. At that time the best way we had was to run the pieces through his shaper using a lock miter bit. It is so nice that now you can do the work on site without bringing in others. Also lets you control the timeline and cost. Great video. Sometimes when I watch your channel I want to get out of retirement and get back into the trade. (well, not really. I really am enjoying retirement and don't miss working those 60 hour weeks.)
Thanks for sharing. I recently did a 14' Cedar using, mitred box beam, matching grain at the edges. It was a bit rough sawn, which I hand flatened sanded flat on the outside. I over mitered the joint, and pressure fit with a spline joint, using pipe clamps. I used a ladder, shims and clamps to flatten the waivy 1"×14" boards, then found a piece of weathered, imperfect mdf base as a straight edge, which I ripped on the table saw. Using the same chalk box you use to straighten the mdf base. If I remembercorrectly, used some of the ripped material as the spline, just under 1/4" thick. Tight Bond 2 and I think 1" pin nails. I told the employer who fired me, that I was going to a friend's cabinet shop to use his Timesaver abrasive sander and his Casolin panel saw, He freaked out and so I stayed at the job and made a beautiful, straight and flat box beam in lol, five days.
Outstanding Demonstrator. From my experience of 45 years in Carpentry, Painting, and staining and remolding. I have found that use old T-Shirts cut up into rags. To use wet rags. to wipe up glue from your wood surface is the best way to keep all glue off your work pieces. The wet rag will not stain the wood surface if you wipe right way. Give that a try, see how works for you.
I will be making beams for our cottage that's why I landed on your videos,I was assuming the table saw was good enough but looks like I'm buying a track saw ,thank you for posting as I'm sure it's going to save me some aggravation
Great show as always, another reason to fold the tab on the tape is that some of the soft woods we get will show some nasty fingernail marks when you try to peel off the pieces. Thank you for keeping build standards high.
Before I offer a recommendation, I should say that I am merely a hobbyist woodworker and not HALF the carpenter you are but I really enjoy your channel and appreciate the content. That said, as I watch your process of using a single track on those sawhorses, an idea came to mind. It would be interesting if you joined 2 tracks together so that you had a single track spanning the length of your material. Then, add a 20mm hole about 7" inset to each of those sacrificial boards on top of the sawhorses. You could put a long bench dog in each, add 4 UJK dog rail clips to your track (2 on each section of track), and effectively have an MFT-style ripping station. Then you would just flip the rail up and slide your material in/out instead of marking and cutting by eye. Perfectly repeatable process that adds practically zero additional setup time or bulk to the setup you're already using. You could even add several consistently spaced dog holes across those sacrificial boards so that you could accommodate various material widths. It would also be modular so you could use just 2 sawhorses and a single track on shorter material.
Sure, you could join two 11 foot long tracks to get a continuous cut, but not necessarily a straight cut. There can be some wiggle in that connection. Spencer's technique of moving the track is more accurate, and I do the same. I have spliced my Festools tracks, but I still get my 6 foot level out to check the connection and ensure they are coplanar. And that takes time. Which reduces production.
Spencer, Thank you for all your great videos. I've been a Design - Builder since 1976 and I still have learned a ton of tricks from you. Your beams look great. If I had that many beams to do, I would bring the Pine back to my shop & run it thru the shaper with a locking Miter router bit installed. They are a pain to set up until you get used to it, but make a great joint. You have a nice shop and I think I recall seeing a Powermatic shaper with a power feed, exactly what I use. Once set up you can run a bunch of "Beams" quickly that fit perfectly.
I found your channel recently and you seem like a chill guy. I am trying to become more handy with trim carpentry. Really enjoy watching your vids. Thanks for taking the time to make these videos and upload them.
You are a huge inspiration ... learn sooo much and you educate sooo well. And I just flip burgers for a living. Nah ... but truly thank you Spencer for all the details and passion you express thru your projects. It's been a HUGE delight being subbed all these years. Hope your week is going perfectly tooooo
I’ve used aluminum straightedges and a circular saw for cutting plywood for built ins rather than muscling plywood on a job site table saw but the track saw is a game changer for time.
I’m pretty much an expert on hand cut dovetails and give away jewelry boxes as gifts. Used to live in Ft. Wayne and went to Huntertown to mill the wood. I would’ve paid good money to hang out with you and learn trim work. I needed more sunshine so we moved out of state a few years ago. Great videos.
You’re always leaning and improving. Every job causing some change for a better outcome with less labor. I’m a 50 year veteran of auto body repair. It’s great to have a system of best practices , but when new tools come along it stirs up the process once again 😳🤩
Great tips. Can't wait for the install video! I would suggest two tracks so you can rip in one pass. I've used spring clamps to make sure the tracks don't move
Spence, I really do love these in depth videos. I learn so much about your methods and they really do help me out in my own. I may not adopt everything you do, but I find myself using your methods more often than not! Keep on doing what you're doing, my friend. It is well received.
Just upgraded to the new Milwaukee track saw in the Packout and looking to up my game on the job site. There are some definite gems of advice on this video. Thank you!
Abutting each board's edge creates an especially customized look with possibly less work though it does require a hidden board on the inside on which to attach the external stock. We used this approach on fluted archway pilasters and it added a rich look to an old style traditional foyer to dining room arch. The fluted stock was garage door pvc trim ! After high quality paint, the result was surprisingly beautiful.
Great video. Making narrow beams is tricky. You're right about narrow rips wanting to twist. +1 on making a 'tab' on the tape for easier removal. Been doing exactly the same for years. Really looking forward to the beam install and scribing. Keep up the good work. Appreciate the time you spend putting this info out. 👍
Great video. I just built some beam wraps using this technique. One thing to be careful of....I built my miter folds and dry fir on day 1, finished them(whitewash/varnish) day 2, installed day 3...btwn day 2 and 3 the side pinched in a little making them too tight to fit over my beams. likely due to moisture fro whitewashing or just humidity. It might be a good idea to place blocks inside to maintain the inside gap. The fix will be painful...these beams will be hand hewn on the inside!
I love when I get a notification of your videos. I know I will probably never do the type of work in the video or own any of the special equipment you own, but I liken it to a magician showing you how a trick works. You make everything look effortless and you do amazing work. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and skills with everyone who watches your videos. I truly enjoy watching them when they pop up in my feeds. You are a true pro and should be very proud of your accomplishments and success. You've earned every bit of it!
You turned me onto that chalk line and that push pin end and thin line is awesome… not the point of the video but I figured I would mention it. 46° is key.
What an amazing resource of trade inside information and craftsmanship. I have learned so much watching your channel, which has translated into earnings. Thanks Spencer!
Thanks for sharing this Spencer. The cost of living in my area has become comparable to California. So no professional wood shop for me. This really simplified things.
Spencer, another fantastic video. Your cameraman is excellent on those close up shots. Which really help to teach woodworkers. Your videos showcase your amazing skills. Thanks for taking your valuable time to share and teach.. Keep doing those close up shots!!! THANKS
I had to wrap an 18ft 2x12 beam the other day with 1by cedar and we used a track connector. It was nice but without 2 people to rotate it around it is easier to do what you do and just move the track as you go if you're by yourself.
Hi, Spence excellent way to mitre beams, I'm lucky to have access to a panel saw with a long sliding table,gluing up I just run a bead of glue in the middle of the mitre. When you closed the pieces together the glue will spread.I also run masking tape all the way along the join never had a problem. You are a master tradesman.
Great job Spencer. Hope that Paul is working out as you hoped. One tip, always have your trash can near by. This keeps your work area clean and you always have another place to rest what you’re working on.
LOL. The funny thing about this comment is that Paul got done with this scope fo work and moved to the next job...taking all the trash cans. LOL He's working out great. He installed the entire basic trim package on this house by himself.
Wow, this is awesome as always. I understand how to scribe but am lost as to how to scribe the beam when it is to be installed right up in the apex ( top of the triangle) of the ceiling. If you could give us a tip in the comments or cover it in the next installation video it would be fantastic!
Another great video teaching people skill they may not otherwise ever learn. One thing I added to my table saw was the rollers that add downward pressure in front of the blade so longer lengths don't creep up from the table while going through, makes the tool safer too.
Fantastic lesson and excellent presentation, Spencer!😊 I made a mitered 5' faux beam fireplace mantle out of poplar on a table saw and still had to sand the heck out of the corners. Wish you had posted this video 7 years ago! This is masterclass on steroids! Thanks for sharing this awesome demonstration.❤ 🚂Lawrence
This exact thing happened to me too. And also on a fireplace mantle. I’ve been questioning the tuning of my table saw, sanded the hell out of my miters, and finally got it up yesterday. Today this vid shows up in my feed 😂😂😂
@@mikekempe7555 Yes Mike, I would venture to say that sometimes we must first go through our own difficult lesson(s), so that we will understand and appreciate the lesson being taught by the teacher (who sometimes goes by the name of Spencer) when he/she finally shows up in our video feed.🤔😳🤗
Tracksaw has been such a game changer for me, the tools make the job. Glue Bot also a great invention, I like the Baby Bot because it's small enough to fit in a pouch and have room for other tools.
Another great video and tips.I see ( pun intended)you have gotten some safety glasses in the last few videos,.They do work much better over you're eyes 😀
Great videos. Been wanting to get a glue dispenser anyway so I used the link to get one. Not much I'm sure but glad to help a little as your videos are so valuable. Thank you Spencer.
I usually watch your videos on 1.5-2x the playback speed. It caught up to me today when I thought you were shoving the track saw through the cut. 😂 Again great video.
Pro tip: when you set your tape, after you cut the length and before you whack down the last end, just fold over the end to leave a tab. When it's time to remove the tape, you don't have to dig around with your fingernails. Just pull the tab. Super fast! Fini.
Never understood the production style beam. I've always thought the whole idea was to create a false beam that actually looks like a solid beam. The mitered beam accomplishes that, production style, not so much. Great work, great video!
Great timing as I have 17’+ LVL beams to cover with mitered pine or maybe stain grade wood. Problem is, if stain-grade, I can’t source any 1-by material over 16’. So, I hope you cover how you splice longer beams over 16’ sometime.
I just make a butt joint if it is stain grade. Add some biscuits to it if possible. But it can be hard to use biscuits on the sides of a really large ridge beam on a cathedral ceiling.
Great video, as usual. I've watched your miter folding technique in the past and it's interesting to see how you've changed your methods of taping the boards together. Cheers!
Great tip regarding the crown and adjusting your cuts for that. I appreciate your methodical approach and hearing your thought process. I have a question about how you’d recommend butting two beams together to make a longer looking beam. Maybe I missed this? Apologize if someone already asked. With baseboard trim, for example, beveling helps execution but I’m scratching my head around how to accommodate for the large scale of the beam, 3D aspect and wanting to ensure end to end is as tight as possible. Thanks!
2 things first of all I have 2 ts55 track saws one with a cross cut blade and one with a ripping blade. Ripping is so much easier with the proper blade and second I join 2 tracks together so I get a much better result than only using 1 track and having to move it. People who have festool tracksaws usually have multiple tracks.
Everyone thinks that it’s never occurred to Spencer to splice 2 tracks together! Sure, you could do that-but it’s a bad idea. The spline that connects the 2 tracks is just that-a connector. Not an alignment tool. Your connected tracks are not necessarily aligned, so you have to get a straightedge (or a 6- or 8-foot level) and double check the alignment. And since you are a production carpenter and you have to make a dozen of those beams, you have to move those floppy, weak, connected tracks dozens of times-checking the alignment every time-to make all your cuts. While you are wasting your time with all this, Spencer is done working and having lunch at the roach coach.
In my experience the tracks do not align and you have to check and light for straightness each time with a long level. It's more of a pain than it is worth for me personally.
Thank you Spencer I learned so much from you brother it’s unbelievable! Just a great big thanks buddy! From one pro to another ( not at your level by far) !
Great video. For those of you who are new to Carpentry, the tape and nails are acting as clamps until the glue dries. I'm assuming the tape you're using doesn't leave residue that prevents paint/stain from penetrating the wood?
Started trim from 03 to 09, changed careers but started back again in 18. Track saws intruiged me ever since I first saw one. I finally ordered the milwaukee this week. It was supposed to come yesterday but fedex lost it. They actually delivered the 31" track but the separate box containing the saw is missing. Of course today I had 2 entire rooms of bead board to do. I was looking forward to using it. No doubt it would've sped up the process. But no, once again FedEx had to show just how incompetent they are. HD says i gotta wait 3 days to see if it shows up before i get a refund. Found one at a local HD that I'm going to get tomorrow. If the other one shows up I'll just have 2 of em I guess. Thanks for the beam tips and the review on the milwaukee saw. I was about to buy the festool and hadnt even considered the milwaukee (even thought I have a ton of m18 batts and chargers. I had no idea it was any good. I happened to see your review the day I was planning to order the festool. I know I can trust you when it comes to tools so it made the decision easy. Thanks again.
I think you'll like it. It's a very close copy of the festool and they even added some features. If you already have some milwaukee batteries it's a no brainer IMO. Hope you like it!
Great craftsmanship, I have a customer that wants me to make a folded miter column cover out of PVC, I'm thinking of making the 45s with the shaper and useing the lamelo joint fastener and the recommend pvc glue
I do PVC miter folds with tape. The biggest issue I have is that the glue etches the finish if you get squeeze out under your tape and can't clean it up right away.
Another great video Spencer. Would it be beneficial to you to have 2 workable sized torsion boxes with an alignment tenon on 1 of them to get rid of the flexing of the boards. I think that the amount of beams that you produce, it would be worth the investment of time and money. Thanks again. 👍🏻
What other carpenter would take the time to go through this much detail - and not charge for it. Impressive.
I do, but I’m old school. Most young guys can’t be bothered with it and wonder why there work looks like crap.
Not charge for it? The guy has more tools than 20 carpenters put together so did the tooth fairy buy them for him?
@@vanman3752 I reckon that he’s smart enough to spend his money on the important things that either make your job quicker or easier and probably doesn’t waste it on alcohol, gambling etc or Uber Eats every day for lunches like the young guys I have to work with and constantly loan tools to, tradesman and apprentices alike. And no I’m not a churchie or a saint. Just don’t like wasting money.
I'm sure he charges for it. You get what you pay for. You don't see him working on tract houses and mobile home decks. Once your reputation is established at that level, you will always have work and you can price it for better margins than your competitors.
@@mikemorgan5015 What I meant was the TH-cam videos - not his actual work. Clearly this is free content for us. But, I'm sure he gets some revenue.
I've been working in the trade longer than Spencer has been alive, but I learn something every time I watch on of his videos.
When cutting a line longer than my saw track, I drop the blade into the kerf of the first part of the cut (without turning the saw on) to align the track for the continuation of the cut. Just about foolproof.
That's a huge compliment! Glad to add value to our trade community.
I do the same exact thing!!
You are an excellent teacher and video demonstrator. I also like that you explain your thinking and how you've changed your methodology over time based upon problems or time sucks experienced from old methods. Great work.
Same thoughts, love the details and improved processes , track saw has saved hauling out my table saw many times, often don't take it to job site unless needed.
Great video.
I'm a retired master carpenter. When we fabricated fake beams in the 70s to mid 80s, we used better quality lumber. Our #2 pine back then had small knot 1/4" if any at all. We didn't have track saws and used tablesaws, glues were basic yellow Elmer's carpenter glue and hand nailed everything. Everything from the mid to late 70s until late 80s were Stain grade finish. No caulking...no putty, just meticulous craftsmanship. I wish we had track saws, and all the other fine tools that are available within the last 20 years.
Btw, I was able to look at a project I did as a young carpenter in the 70s...the beams are still amazing looking. Better wood and able to do it correctly the first time instead of "hurry hurry production " with crappy wood never happened back then. You are definitely a skilled carpenter and I can tell you are passionate like me.
Great work!
Curious as to how you price out a job like this ?
Now day's I would lose my shirt per square foot....Back then we charged architect and owners Time and materials.
As always phenomenal. Your cameraman is doing a great job.
You do a phenomenal job of describing and demonstrating detailed processes of trim carpentry. I’ve basically been binge watching your content for the past few days. Thanks for setting the benchmark for what I consider to be the MOST useful tool as a tradesman, information. It saves an enormous amount of time and materials due to misguided trial and error.
I’ve watched 10 or more of these faux beam tutorials and this one is BY FAR the best. Much thanks for being so detailed! Excited to tackle this project on my own house.
A client recently told me that teachers are born not made, you have the gift mate. Thanks for the great information.
Thanks!
When using a tracksaw I use a giant clothespeg style spring clamp on the far end in case it wanders off line,which tends to happen as the blade gets blunt or wants to follow the grain.The rubber grip strips are not foolproof
The times, they are a changing. Back in the day, I worked closely with a small mill shop to do most of this type of work, We would work in his shop to build the beams and then take them to the sirte to install. At that time the best way we had was to run the pieces through his shaper using a lock miter bit. It is so nice that now you can do the work on site without bringing in others. Also lets you control the timeline and cost. Great video. Sometimes when I watch your channel I want to get out of retirement and get back into the trade. (well, not really. I really am enjoying retirement and don't miss working those 60 hour weeks.)
My sentiments exactly but if I could get a ticket to go back 40 years, my bags are packed.
Thanks for sharing. I recently did a 14' Cedar using, mitred box beam, matching grain at the edges. It was a bit rough sawn, which I hand flatened sanded flat on the outside. I over mitered the joint, and pressure fit with a spline joint, using pipe clamps. I used a ladder, shims and clamps to flatten the waivy 1"×14" boards, then found a piece of weathered, imperfect mdf base as a straight edge, which I ripped on the table saw. Using the same chalk box you use to straighten the mdf base. If I remembercorrectly, used some of the ripped material as the spline, just under 1/4" thick. Tight Bond 2 and I think 1" pin nails. I told the employer who fired me, that I was going to a friend's cabinet shop to use his Timesaver abrasive sander and his Casolin panel saw, He freaked out and so I stayed at the job and made a beautiful, straight and flat box beam in lol, five days.
Outstanding Demonstrator. From my experience of 45 years in Carpentry, Painting, and staining and remolding. I have found that use old T-Shirts cut up into rags. To use wet rags. to wipe up glue from your wood surface is the best way to keep all glue off your work pieces. The wet rag will not stain the wood surface if you wipe right way.
Give that a try, see how works for you.
I will be making beams for our cottage that's why I landed on your videos,I was assuming the table saw was good enough but looks like I'm buying a track saw ,thank you for posting as I'm sure it's going to save me some aggravation
Great show as always, another reason to fold the tab on the tape is that some of the soft woods we get will show some nasty fingernail marks when you try to peel off the pieces. Thank you for keeping build standards high.
Said it before, say it again- you are a beacon of thoughtful, insightful and inspiring information. Thanks man!
Thanks Spencer, I’ve used this method I’ve learned from you on a few occasions and my customers love the finished product.
Before I offer a recommendation, I should say that I am merely a hobbyist woodworker and not HALF the carpenter you are but I really enjoy your channel and appreciate the content.
That said, as I watch your process of using a single track on those sawhorses, an idea came to mind. It would be interesting if you joined 2 tracks together so that you had a single track spanning the length of your material. Then, add a 20mm hole about 7" inset to each of those sacrificial boards on top of the sawhorses. You could put a long bench dog in each, add 4 UJK dog rail clips to your track (2 on each section of track), and effectively have an MFT-style ripping station. Then you would just flip the rail up and slide your material in/out instead of marking and cutting by eye. Perfectly repeatable process that adds practically zero additional setup time or bulk to the setup you're already using. You could even add several consistently spaced dog holes across those sacrificial boards so that you could accommodate various material widths. It would also be modular so you could use just 2 sawhorses and a single track on shorter material.
Sure, you could join two 11 foot long tracks to get a continuous cut, but not necessarily a straight cut. There can be some wiggle in that connection. Spencer's technique of moving the track is more accurate, and I do the same. I have spliced my Festools tracks, but I still get my 6 foot level out to check the connection and ensure they are coplanar. And that takes time. Which reduces production.
Spencer, Thank you for all your great videos. I've been a Design - Builder since 1976 and I still have learned a ton of tricks from you. Your beams look great. If I had that many beams to do, I would bring the Pine back to my shop & run it thru the shaper with a locking Miter router bit installed. They are a pain to set up until you get used to it, but make a great joint. You have a nice shop and I think I recall seeing a Powermatic shaper with a power feed, exactly what I use. Once set up you can run a bunch of "Beams" quickly that fit perfectly.
I have my shaper setup specifically for the lock miter but I still prefer to just miter fold them.
I found your channel recently and you seem like a chill guy. I am trying to become more handy with trim carpentry. Really enjoy watching your vids. Thanks for taking the time to make these videos and upload them.
Welcome aboard!
You are a huge inspiration ... learn sooo much and you educate sooo well. And I just flip burgers for a living. Nah ... but truly thank you Spencer for all the details and passion you express thru your projects. It's been a HUGE delight being subbed all these years. Hope your week is going perfectly tooooo
I’ve used aluminum straightedges and a circular saw for cutting plywood for built ins rather than muscling plywood on a job site table saw but the track saw is a game changer for time.
I’m pretty much an expert on hand cut dovetails and give away jewelry boxes as gifts. Used to live in Ft. Wayne and went to Huntertown to mill the wood. I would’ve paid good money to hang out with you and learn trim work. I needed more sunshine so we moved out of state a few years ago. Great videos.
You’re always leaning and improving. Every job causing some change for a better outcome with less labor. I’m a 50 year veteran of auto body repair. It’s great to have a system of best practices , but when new tools come along it stirs up the process once again 😳🤩
Great tips. Can't wait for the install video! I would suggest two tracks so you can rip in one pass. I've used spring clamps to make sure the tracks don't move
Spence, I really do love these in depth videos. I learn so much about your methods and they really do help me out in my own. I may not adopt everything you do, but I find myself using your methods more often than not! Keep on doing what you're doing, my friend. It is well received.
Just upgraded to the new Milwaukee track saw in the Packout and looking to up my game on the job site. There are some definite gems of advice on this video. Thank you!
Thank You. I have several beams I need to build for a job. I have watched all of your video on beams.
I made some beams once. Biscuits and clamps. They came out perfect but obviously way over did it. Great video again!! My favourite channel by far!
I’d argue that it’s not possible to overdo something you’re only going to do once! 🤣
Abutting each board's edge creates an especially customized look with possibly less work though it does require a hidden board on the inside on which to attach the external stock. We used this approach on fluted archway pilasters and it added a rich look to an old style traditional foyer to dining room arch. The fluted stock was garage door pvc trim ! After high quality paint, the result was surprisingly beautiful.
Great video. Making narrow beams is tricky. You're right about narrow rips wanting to twist.
+1 on making a 'tab' on the tape for easier removal. Been doing exactly the same for years.
Really looking forward to the beam install and scribing.
Keep up the good work. Appreciate the time you spend putting this info out. 👍
Great video. I just built some beam wraps using this technique. One thing to be careful of....I built my miter folds and dry fir on day 1, finished them(whitewash/varnish) day 2, installed day 3...btwn day 2 and 3 the side pinched in a little making them too tight to fit over my beams. likely due to moisture fro whitewashing or just humidity. It might be a good idea to place blocks inside to maintain the inside gap.
The fix will be painful...these beams will be hand hewn on the inside!
absolutely the greatest teacher out there, what a great channel, you ROCK!!
As either an owner or GC it's a good day when one of your trucks arrives at the jobsite. Ray
I love when I get a notification of your videos. I know I will probably never do the type of work in the video or own any of the special equipment you own, but I liken it to a magician showing you how a trick works. You make everything look effortless and you do amazing work. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and skills with everyone who watches your videos. I truly enjoy watching them when they pop up in my feeds. You are a true pro and should be very proud of your accomplishments and success. You've earned every bit of it!
Thanks for the kind words!
You turned me onto that chalk line and that push pin end and thin line is awesome… not the point of the video but I figured I would mention it. 46° is key.
What an amazing resource of trade inside information and craftsmanship. I have learned so much watching your channel, which has translated into earnings. Thanks Spencer!
Thanks for sharing this Spencer. The cost of living in my area has become comparable to California. So no professional wood shop for me. This really simplified things.
Awesome presentation learned a lot I’m about to tackle a small project in my home definitely feel a lot more confident doing so now
Best video I've came across explaining how to do this. Love the channel. Thanks for sharing knowledge.
I appreciate all that you do in your videos. Your presentation and informative format are encouraging.
Spencer, another fantastic video. Your cameraman is excellent on those close up shots. Which really help to teach woodworkers. Your videos showcase your amazing skills. Thanks for taking your valuable time to share and teach.. Keep doing those close up shots!!! THANKS
Thanks for the feedback!
I had to wrap an 18ft 2x12 beam the other day with 1by cedar and we used a track connector. It was nice but without 2 people to rotate it around it is easier to do what you do and just move the track as you go if you're by yourself.
"Safety first" while putting on the ear buds but leaving the safety glasses on top of the hat when making the track saw cut.😂
Hi, Spence excellent way to mitre beams, I'm lucky to have access to a panel saw with a long sliding table,gluing up I just run a bead of glue in the middle of the mitre. When you closed the pieces together the glue will spread.I also run masking tape all the way along the join never had a problem. You are a master tradesman.
Lucky duck. I'd love to have a big panel saw someday. It would be so handy for straight lining.
Great job Spencer. Hope that Paul is working out as you hoped. One tip, always have your trash can near by. This keeps your work area clean and you always have another place to rest what you’re working on.
LOL. The funny thing about this comment is that Paul got done with this scope fo work and moved to the next job...taking all the trash cans. LOL He's working out great. He installed the entire basic trim package on this house by himself.
Wow, this is awesome as always. I understand how to scribe but am lost as to how to scribe the beam when it is to be installed right up in the apex ( top of the triangle) of the ceiling. If you could give us a tip in the comments or cover it in the next installation video it would be fantastic!
Hopefully I answer your questions in the next video. Stay tuned.
great video- I have used your previous (table saw) method youtube for a couple of years now. Track saw update will now be my go-to
Your videos are the best... thoughtful, well explained and clearly stated with reasoning anyone can follow. Thanks so much for sharing.
Thank you for your continued generosity
Another great video teaching people skill they may not otherwise ever learn. One thing I added to my table saw was the rollers that add downward pressure in front of the blade so longer lengths don't creep up from the table while going through, makes the tool safer too.
Fantastic lesson and excellent presentation, Spencer!😊 I made a mitered 5' faux beam fireplace mantle out of poplar on a table saw and still had to sand the heck out of the corners. Wish you had posted this video 7 years ago! This is masterclass on steroids! Thanks for sharing this awesome demonstration.❤ 🚂Lawrence
This exact thing happened to me too. And also on a fireplace mantle. I’ve been questioning the tuning of my table saw, sanded the hell out of my miters, and finally got it up yesterday. Today this vid shows up in my feed 😂😂😂
@@mikekempe7555 Yes Mike, I would venture to say that sometimes we must first go through our own difficult lesson(s), so that we will understand and appreciate the lesson being taught by the teacher (who sometimes goes by the name of Spencer) when he/she finally shows up in our video feed.🤔😳🤗
Tracksaw has been such a game changer for me, the tools make the job. Glue Bot also a great invention, I like the Baby Bot because it's small enough to fit in a pouch and have room for other tools.
Just wanted to add on certain mitres I've used the Tenso fastener and it works amazing well also.
@kiwdwks, But doesn't that get a bit expensive? What spacing do you use?
great clear hands on teaching
Another great video and tips.I see ( pun intended)you have gotten some safety glasses in the last few videos,.They do work much better over you're eyes 😀
"Safety first" - leaves glasses on his hat visor.
You beat me to it! Let me get my hearing protection on. LOL
Thank you for sharing these valuble tips! This will definitely up my game!
I'm a pro getting ready to retire just want to compliment you on the video you're doing a good job keep it up thank you
You are an excellent carpenter and teacher.
Great videos. Been wanting to get a glue dispenser anyway so I used the link to get one. Not much I'm sure but glad to help a little as your videos are so valuable. Thank you Spencer.
You learn so much from a master craftsman. Thanks a lot !
I usually watch your videos on 1.5-2x the playback speed. It caught up to
me today when I thought you were shoving the track saw through the cut. 😂 Again great video.
You are a true master carpenter! Thanks for sharing all of your knowledge.
Pro tip: when you set your tape, after you cut the length and before you whack down the last end, just fold over the end to leave a tab. When it's time to remove the tape, you don't have to dig around with your fingernails. Just pull the tab. Super fast! Fini.
Frog painters taped worked better for me. Easier to remove and stuck better than packing tape. Thanks for a great video
Fantastic tips as usual !!! Love to see the installation of some beams !!
amazing tutorial. Thanks for taking time to make. Already have glubot and tape dispenser. Will pick up some tape.
You are a good teacher,,,you are improving my technique through your videos.😊
Thank you for your generosity
Never understood the production style beam. I've always thought the whole idea was to create a false beam that actually looks like a solid beam. The mitered beam accomplishes that, production style, not so much. Great work, great video!
Awesome video Spencer, as usual. I love this channel and all that you do man. Move to SW Florida so i can work with you!
Looking forward to that install video!
Thank you!!!! That was a great video.
Tab both ends of the tape
Thank you for sharing your experience. I very much appreciate it.
Another excellent vid with some great tips and techniques. Thanks again Spencer.
Another excellent tutorial Spencer! This channel is killing it!
Wow. Very nice work. If I wasn't 72 I would try it.
Awesome video/tips...thanks again Spencer!
You are a good teacher.
Great timing as I have 17’+ LVL beams to cover with mitered pine or maybe stain grade wood. Problem is, if stain-grade, I can’t source any 1-by material over 16’. So, I hope you cover how you splice longer beams over 16’ sometime.
I just make a butt joint if it is stain grade. Add some biscuits to it if possible. But it can be hard to use biscuits on the sides of a really large ridge beam on a cathedral ceiling.
Great video, as usual. I've watched your miter folding technique in the past and it's interesting to see how you've changed your methods of taping the boards together. Cheers!
Great tip regarding the crown and adjusting your cuts for that. I appreciate your methodical approach and hearing your thought process. I have a question about how you’d recommend butting two beams together to make a longer looking beam. Maybe I missed this? Apologize if someone already asked. With baseboard trim, for example, beveling helps execution but I’m scratching my head around how to accommodate for the large scale of the beam, 3D aspect and wanting to ensure end to end is as tight as possible. Thanks!
You’re a trail blazer Spence !
2 things first of all I have 2 ts55 track saws one with a cross cut blade and one with a ripping blade. Ripping is so much easier with the proper blade and second I join 2 tracks together so I get a much better result than only using 1 track and having to move it. People who have festool tracksaws usually have multiple tracks.
Everyone thinks that it’s never occurred to Spencer to splice 2 tracks together! Sure, you could do that-but it’s a bad idea. The spline that connects the 2 tracks is just that-a connector. Not an alignment tool. Your connected tracks are not necessarily aligned, so you have to get a straightedge (or a 6- or 8-foot level) and double check the alignment. And since you are a production carpenter and you have to make a dozen of those beams, you have to move those floppy, weak, connected tracks dozens of times-checking the alignment every time-to make all your cuts. While you are wasting your time with all this, Spencer is done working and having lunch at the roach coach.
In my experience the tracks do not align and you have to check and light for straightness each time with a long level. It's more of a pain than it is worth for me personally.
Thank you so much , your so talented and professional.
Excellent video tutorial!!!
So well explained 😊
All about the details !
G8 job ❤
Kind & best regards from Poland 🇵🇱
Thanks god the video we needed and yes pls video on scribing and install!!
You're the man Spencer.
Thank you Spencer I learned so much from you brother it’s unbelievable! Just a great big thanks buddy! From one pro to another ( not at your level by far) !
Glad to help!
Great stuff, as always, Spencer!!!
Great video. For those of you who are new to Carpentry, the tape and nails are acting as clamps until the glue dries. I'm assuming the tape you're using doesn't leave residue that prevents paint/stain from penetrating the wood?
I sand everything after the glue up process, so any residue is sanded off with 120 grit.
Thanks for a great lesson.
Thanks for sharing your skills and expertise.
Started trim from 03 to 09, changed careers but started back again in 18. Track saws intruiged me ever since I first saw one. I finally ordered the milwaukee this week. It was supposed to come yesterday but fedex lost it. They actually delivered the 31" track but the separate box containing the saw is missing. Of course today I had 2 entire rooms of bead board to do. I was looking forward to using it. No doubt it would've sped up the process. But no, once again FedEx had to show just how incompetent they are. HD says i gotta wait 3 days to see if it shows up before i get a refund. Found one at a local HD that I'm going to get tomorrow. If the other one shows up I'll just have 2 of em I guess.
Thanks for the beam tips and the review on the milwaukee saw. I was about to buy the festool and hadnt even considered the milwaukee (even thought I have a ton of m18 batts and chargers. I had no idea it was any good. I happened to see your review the day I was planning to order the festool. I know I can trust you when it comes to tools so it made the decision easy.
Thanks again.
I think you'll like it. It's a very close copy of the festool and they even added some features. If you already have some milwaukee batteries it's a no brainer IMO. Hope you like it!
Got it yesterday and it seems pretty solid.
As always, great job man thank you
Great craftsmanship, I have a customer that wants me to make a folded miter column cover out of PVC, I'm thinking of making the 45s with the shaper and useing the lamelo joint fastener and the recommend pvc glue
You might get just as good results with a simple tape miter fold with the pvc glue.
I do PVC miter folds with tape. The biggest issue I have is that the glue etches the finish if you get squeeze out under your tape and can't clean it up right away.
Another outstanding video, cheers!
Thanks for posting
Another great video Spencer. Would it be beneficial to you to have 2 workable sized torsion boxes with an alignment tenon on 1 of them to get rid of the flexing of the boards. I think that the amount of beams that you produce, it would be worth the investment of time and money. Thanks again. 👍🏻
When wiping the glue off, try using a wet paper towel. this gets rid of most of the glue and makes it wasier to sand