I've always heard "if you want to know the easiest way to get something done ask a lazy person" but it is actually "ask a person that works by himself". You have mastered the working by yourself method. Amazingly well done!!
I've trimmed new houses for 20 years in Long Island, NY by myself just like you and always used 2-1/2" nails on base moldings and never hit anything. Enjoy the channel!
I sure hope the owner's of the homes you work on watch your videos so they can see the attention to detail that you put into your work. Another great training video. Thanks again.
A helper and myself just finished up roughly 300 linear feet of ceiling beam. After thinking about an easy way to measure the rafter beams we came up with exactly the same way you measured yours, worked flawlessly.
You are the man. I can't comprehend doing that job alone. Anyway, I am not a fan of adding numbers to the template. I would rather have an exact template that I do not need to do math with. All you need to do is put a board up there, square on each end. Then use your adjustable angle finder, and cut a thin piece of wood at the ange of the ceiling and the wall. Do the same for the other end. Tack your angle cuts to the board when they are up against the wall or box beam. You have an exact emplate. My father used to use a two stick sliding ruler device he made from two long 1X2 maple strips, held together with thin brass turn buckles he made. He could put that thing between walls, or whatever, slide it out until they touched, tighten it up, and plop it on a board and have the perfect dimension. No laser measuring device necessary. This is a modification of that idea. Whenever you do math, you are introducing a place you can make a mistake.
I was yelling at the screen on that first cut with the circular saw to reset the depth. Really appreciate the detailed explanation and the CRISPY result. Nice work.
The scaffolding layout was the first thing I noticed -what a great idea. Having said that, I want to express how much I hate beams- but, they sure are popular. Good video!
Thanks for sharing your steps. I especially appreciate your pointing out your tricks to adjust the beam when existing conditions are less than ideal. Many others just leave that part of the footage on the cutting room floor.
Great work! As always, thanks for talking thru the process without BS or showmanship. Thanks too for including the link to the gap measuring wedge. This should be much faster for me than carrying a piuch full of various sizes of handishims. Suggestion for your lungs when it’s impractical to use dust extraction: Stealth mask. Compact, fits close to your face, comfortable to wear all day, won’t fog your glasses, replacement filters.
I've taken to fitting dust extraction hose to circular saw (nice flexible one works best) saves getting covered in dust. Works well when working outside too, when the wind will blow the dust back over you. Great tip with the blue masking tape,many thanks, you learn something new every day. Great channel, keep up the good work 👍
Spencer you are a wood carpenter master artist, you make difficult things look easy, to be specific the scribing cuts is just phenomenal, I did not know how it was done. Looks so simple and make sense the way you did it to remove the least amount of material cutting in an angle with the saw first closer to the edge and finishing with the plain. Congratulation!!!
I like the tape method. Years ago we used to use a compass or dividers to scribe post form formica countertops to the wall. We never caulked the joint to hide a poor fitting joint.
The fit was fantastic, I have been installing different types of wood details for over forty years, and I use a compass that is set to the widest gap, the scribes you have were not on the market when I started and I just got used to the compass
Spencer. Have been watching your channel for some time and Always learn something valuable. Fantastic work and attention to detail. Keep the video information coming. Thanks.
A stair tread gauge actually works pretty awesome for that. Cut a rafter ( like you did) but cut it short. Use the stair tread gauge method after that. Perfect fit and only 2 trips up the ladder/ scaffolding. Edit: I realize my description is pretty vague. Just treat the beam like you are installing a massive stair tread. Hopefully that’s a better description, than my first, poor explanation .
I have some of the Collins type tread gauges that work with a piece of 1x2. I could see making a "rafter template" with a section of 1x2 coming out each end...
Hi from South Africa. Wow, I absolutely loved this video. Love your process as well as your methods and efficiency. Looks amazing once you know how to scribe and eliminate the problems. Awesome finish carpentry work 👍. Take care.
I always like to take an off cut with the top and bottom angles cut to double check the ends when I scribe to make sure the cuts are the same on both sides. So if one wall wasn't parallel to the other, or the ridge, or just a hump in the drywall, you can spot the difference. Awesome video as always though.
Awesome video. All your tips/tricks are invaluable. Appreciate the links...just picked up the RazorScribe & chalk line. As I get older a pencil line can is getting hard to see. The tape/RazorScribe/hauk knife will be something I'll use for sure. Love that the chalk line has a needle...very handy. Thanks Spencer!
23:00 - 25:00 Milwaukee’s 2” planer maked the scribe cut process way faster for me. You can tilt the planer to feather and dial in to your line. I love the razor scribe! Gotta get one of those
Spencer, great instructional. Suggestion: -Make a template with adjustable ends similar to a stair tread template. Slotted holes, wing nuts, so you can adjust length and angle same time. Transfer directly to rafter.
I'm following your channel a long time, and I think im as excited as you about this investment. It's a credit to you and your family, and the very best of luck all the way from Ireland 👍
I have a lot of respect for your work as a 20+ years fine finish carpenter in the SF Bay Area, but solo work is counter productive. Full Stop. Thumbs up on the video!
I sorta get the one man working while the other watches. But once you and Paul get going, you’ll both will be working in unison. It takes forever, then one day you’ll realize you now have two extra arms. Great work as always.
Try quarter inch plywood and a belt sander for your scribe's and then hot glue those to your template and use a router with a top bearing bit , template bit. We use to use that method on pre finished beams.
I actually adopted your skirt board style of layout so I check the actual finished roof angle given by the digital level, then throw a level to check for plumb on the beam and drywall at the approximate distance of drop the perlin will cover
Spencer - Thanks for another great instructional video. If you ever need an idea for good content, an in-depth video on the scaffolding set ups, and any other equipment that you use most often for working at heights, along with an explanation of the function you get from each would be a great topic to cover. Keep up the great work.
lovely job. scaffolding worked out well. suprised you didnt have the scibed side pre beveled so when you mark the scribe you could use a cordless planer up on the scaffold to cut to the line. probably be too much for the rally bad ones but the first one it could have worked
Always great information, maybe someone should make a template jig out of aluminum straight tube with adjustable length, and swiveled end pieces to set angles. Kind of like a tread template, or does it already exist.
A couple thoughts I have that may simplify and reduce the chance for errors. Rather than measure the gaps in the angle of your jig, you could mark the ends of the jig with an offset block that is against the bottom drywall and top ridge beam. Rather than moving the jig and measuring the movement of the jig to find your length, you could tack the jig in one location and the offset blocks will automatically account for length without having to remember to account for that when transferring the marks on the ground. You could also use this method to scribe the top edges. You would need to move the jig to each side of the mounting blocking but it would save a trip up the scaffold. However, this method would likely not be as accurate as your current method with the razor scribe directly onto the workpiece. When it is time to use the offset block to transfer the marks back onto the workpiece, the offset block will be 3/4" above your workpiece be they would be sitting on the jig. To solve that, use a block that is thicker than your jig and cut a 3/4" rabbet so the leg reaches down to the workpiece.
If that works for you, is easier and more efficient for you, that’s the route I would go. You might drop your offset blocks, resulting in a needless trip down scaffold.I don’t know. Different strokes for different folks. I’ve noticed this with spencer. He’s all about repeatability and simple. I believe the way he is going about it is such. I know that I’m not a rocket scientist, so the simpler the better. Especially Friday at 4:30 pm…when the crew is ready for the weekend.
Multiple scribe jigs are a must. I have the trend and razorscribe, I also have a scribe tool called 'thingamejig'. A bit big but great for dialing in exact scribe depth.
This is exactly what I am working on at my home and I’m working with old growth 1920 pine that I am repurposing into box beams. It’s dark and I was dreading having to scribe it to the ceiling because it was going to be hard to see my pencil line. Tape and razor is the tits!!!😂. Curved diagonal beams on my box beam trusses are next. Thank you for posting and making me look good. ❤
As always, excellent video! Put a piece of foam pipe insulation on your top scaffold bar to protect your wood work. “If there’s one thing you’ll screw up…”. Yep! Do you make one extra beam just in case?
You're a great teacher. You always have the most efficient, fast, and most sensible, way of doing things.Thank you for your videos.
I've always heard "if you want to know the easiest way to get something done ask a lazy person" but it is actually "ask a person that works by himself". You have mastered the working by yourself method. Amazingly well done!!
You must be a homebuilder's best friend. Amazingly skilled.
Great work. Thanks!
Coming from a 30 year old professional I hope I can one day execute my projects as well as you do. A lot of value in these videos thank you!
I just got my 1st big job of white oak beams and this help's me alot. I truly appreciate it brother. Thank you so much for the videos
I've trimmed new houses for 20 years in Long Island, NY by myself just like you and always used 2-1/2" nails on base moldings and never hit anything. Enjoy the channel!
I sure hope the owner's of the homes you work on watch your videos so they can see the attention to detail that you put into your work. Another great training video. Thanks again.
@28:00 Wow. CRISPY! Your attention to detail is second to none!
Your ability to visualize what you are doing is exceptional making finding solutions a quick trip.
Absolute gold. Thank you. Ordered the depth gauge and razor scribe.
Take a bow agin ,mate ,perfection comes to people that deserving it, you do
Thanks Spencer we would have no been able to do this box beam install without your help.
Wow! Thank you for your incredible generosity!!! I'm glad the videos help!!!
A helper and myself just finished up roughly 300 linear feet of ceiling beam. After thinking about an easy way to measure the rafter beams we came up with exactly the same way you measured yours, worked flawlessly.
You are the man. I can't comprehend doing that job alone. Anyway, I am not a fan of adding numbers to the template. I would rather have an exact template that I do not need to do math with. All you need to do is put a board up there, square on each end. Then use your adjustable angle finder, and cut a thin piece of wood at the ange of the ceiling and the wall. Do the same for the other end. Tack your angle cuts to the board when they are up against the wall or box beam. You have an exact emplate. My father used to use a two stick sliding ruler device he made from two long 1X2 maple strips, held together with thin brass turn buckles he made. He could put that thing between walls, or whatever, slide it out until they touched, tighten it up, and plop it on a board and have the perfect dimension. No laser measuring device necessary. This is a modification of that idea. Whenever you do math, you are introducing a place you can make a mistake.
Looks great Spencer! You're a talented craftsman AND teacher.
Awesome to watch a true craftsman’s work!
Just a great carpenter. Very common sense and great at explaining your technique. That staging setup is especially slick.
Id like to reiterate what others have said here. Your videos have become very good. Thanks
I was yelling at the screen on that first cut with the circular saw to reset the depth. Really appreciate the detailed explanation and the CRISPY result. Nice work.
LOL 😂 I knew something didn’t feel right…
Me too😂😂😂
The scaffolding layout was the first thing I noticed -what a great idea. Having said that, I want to express how much I hate beams- but, they sure are popular. Good video!
Nice job… greetings from a 100 amateur carpenter from Poland 👍👍👍.You are very good a carpenter teacher…👍👍👍
Thanks for sharing your steps. I especially appreciate your pointing out your tricks to adjust the beam when existing conditions are less than ideal. Many others just leave that part of the footage on the cutting room floor.
I have done a number of these sets as a two or three person crew. I'm going off solo now so this is great advice!
Great work! As always, thanks for talking thru the process without BS or showmanship. Thanks too for including the link to the gap measuring wedge. This should be much faster for me than carrying a piuch full of various sizes of handishims. Suggestion for your lungs when it’s impractical to use dust extraction: Stealth mask. Compact, fits close to your face, comfortable to wear all day, won’t fog your glasses, replacement filters.
Every time I watch you and I learn so much.
Literally waiting on my beam package from Barron Designs for a client.
Thanks for the video as always!
Your videos are great because even though we're a "crew " we do most things alone to make the most money per house. New home construction here
I've taken to fitting dust extraction hose to circular saw (nice flexible one works best) saves getting covered in dust. Works well when working outside too, when the wind will blow the dust back over you. Great tip with the blue masking tape,many thanks, you learn something new every day. Great channel, keep up the good work 👍
Spencer you are a wood carpenter master artist, you make difficult things look easy, to be specific the scribing cuts is just phenomenal, I did not know how it was done. Looks so simple and make sense the way you did it to remove the least amount of material cutting in an angle with the saw first closer to the edge and finishing with the plain.
Congratulation!!!
I like the tape method. Years ago we used to use a compass or dividers to scribe post form formica countertops to the wall. We never caulked the joint to hide a poor fitting joint.
The master at work again! Beautiful
Best Tips ever! Thanks for sharing!!👌👍🤩🫡 Perfect! Looks great!👍
The fit was fantastic, I have been installing different types of wood details for over forty years, and I use a compass that is set to the widest gap, the scribes you have were not on the market when I started and I just got used to the compass
Excellent technique combined with great skills.
Spencer,another excellent explanation. Thanks
Spencer. Have been watching your channel for some time and Always learn something valuable. Fantastic work and attention to detail. Keep the video information coming. Thanks.
are there blocks between the rafters? or how are the cleats attached?
Surprised the builder didn't want to book match the beams since they'll be a stain finish. Second to none quality, great content as always 💯
We're just lucky if we can find some halfway flat and straight boards.
What a great job man I look forward to seeing these videos, true craftsmanship
A stair tread gauge actually works pretty awesome for that.
Cut a rafter ( like you did) but cut it short.
Use the stair tread gauge method after that.
Perfect fit and only 2 trips up the ladder/ scaffolding.
Edit:
I realize my description is pretty vague.
Just treat the beam like you are installing a massive stair tread.
Hopefully that’s a better description, than my first, poor explanation .
I have some of the Collins type tread gauges that work with a piece of 1x2. I could see making a "rafter template" with a section of 1x2 coming out each end...
Yeah you could attach a thread gauge to either side of the template and you'd have the length too
Hi from South Africa. Wow, I absolutely loved this video. Love your process as well as your methods and efficiency. Looks amazing once you know how to scribe and eliminate the problems. Awesome finish carpentry work 👍. Take care.
I always like to take an off cut with the top and bottom angles cut to double check the ends when I scribe to make sure the cuts are the same on both sides. So if one wall wasn't parallel to the other, or the ridge, or just a hump in the drywall, you can spot the difference. Awesome video as always though.
fantastic work and I have learned so much...
Looks awesome! Thank you for sharing your details!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge, you are the best.
Spencer - Outstanding work as always, brother. 🤝🏽
Thanks for the tips and tricks. Your knowledge and processes are awesome!
Excellent video!!!
A master class in mastery
Rafter crown is tuff to deal with... nice job.
Great video!! What size faux beam would you recommend running down the center of a 17' vaulted ceiling 22" long? Thank you!
Thanks for sharing your tips ,GOD bless you!
Easily best in the business hats off to you.
Awesome video. All your tips/tricks are invaluable. Appreciate the links...just picked up the RazorScribe & chalk line. As I get older a pencil line can is getting hard to see. The tape/RazorScribe/hauk knife will be something I'll use for sure. Love that the chalk line has a needle...very handy. Thanks Spencer!
Excellent Work. Attention to detail. Thanks for sharing
23:00 - 25:00 Milwaukee’s 2” planer maked the scribe cut process way faster for me. You can tilt the planer to feather and dial in to your line. I love the razor scribe! Gotta get one of those
Top notch looking work Spence!
Spencer, great instructional.
Suggestion:
-Make a template with adjustable ends similar to a stair tread template. Slotted holes, wing nuts, so you can adjust length and angle same time. Transfer directly to rafter.
Scribing is one of my favorite parts of my job. I’d never seen the scribing razor tool before. I just ordered one.
It’s so satisfying to get a perfect fit
@@metgumbnerbone1 favorite part of the job
Always another great video. Thanks.
Good stuff, way to get to grips with the ins and outs.
Excellent craftsmanship 👍✌️
Amazing as always! Thanks for sharing your videos!
A lot of info on your videos bro , love it !!!
I'm following your channel a long time, and I think im as excited as you about this investment. It's a credit to you and your family, and the very best of luck all the way from Ireland 👍
Awesome video Spencer, you always make complex tasks easy, I have learned so much from you- keep up the outstanding videos!!
Great video Spencer. Time to break out the golf clubs!
Did 16 of these last year but they were 22ft long and 12x12. Biggest challenge I’ve had.
How high were the ceilings you did? And how did the 12x12 's look? We are building and I'm trying to determine sizes.
Awesome channel! I subbed before I'd even finished watching one video. 👍👍
I have a lot of respect for your work as a 20+ years fine finish carpenter in the SF Bay Area, but solo work is counter productive.
Full Stop.
Thumbs up on the video!
I sorta get the one man working while the other watches. But once you and Paul get going, you’ll both will be working in unison. It takes forever, then one day you’ll realize you now have two extra arms. Great work as always.
Try quarter inch plywood and a belt sander for your scribe's and then hot glue those to your template and use a router with a top bearing bit , template bit. We use to use that method on pre finished beams.
excellent job you're the man
you had some good people teach
I actually adopted your skirt board style of layout so I check the actual finished roof angle given by the digital level, then throw a level to check for plumb on the beam and drywall at the approximate distance of drop the perlin will cover
Very Impressive! Love it
Great job man 🎉
Thanks Spencer, great stuff
This video did NOT disappoint - best tutorial I've ever seen!😊 Bravo, Spencer!🍷 🚂Lawrence
Nice work young man
Great teacher
gr8 work as usual , thnx so much for the video's !!
Spencer - Thanks for another great instructional video. If you ever need an idea for good content, an in-depth video on the scaffolding set ups, and any other equipment that you use most often for working at heights, along with an explanation of the function you get from each would be a great topic to cover. Keep up the great work.
lovely job. scaffolding worked out well.
suprised you didnt have the scibed side pre beveled so when you mark the scribe you could use a cordless planer up on the scaffold to cut to the line. probably be too much for the rally bad ones but the first one it could have worked
Great video Spencer. I love the work and tips. When can we see the finished work on your last project? It is great to see your finished work.
where do you buy that gauge ??
With vaulted ceilings, how do you install the primary beam (ridge beam?) how do you install the blocking?
This is gold!
Literally doing this RIGHT NOW 😂
some good tips here thanks boss
Great job
You are a good man!
When I do a long cut like this I put my Hat backwards, that way the sawdust hit my face less
Thank you for your knowledge sharing 😀
Thank
Always great information, maybe someone should make a template jig out of aluminum straight tube with adjustable length, and swiveled end pieces to set angles. Kind of like a tread template, or does it already exist.
Just WOW!
A couple thoughts I have that may simplify and reduce the chance for errors. Rather than measure the gaps in the angle of your jig, you could mark the ends of the jig with an offset block that is against the bottom drywall and top ridge beam. Rather than moving the jig and measuring the movement of the jig to find your length, you could tack the jig in one location and the offset blocks will automatically account for length without having to remember to account for that when transferring the marks on the ground. You could also use this method to scribe the top edges. You would need to move the jig to each side of the mounting blocking but it would save a trip up the scaffold. However, this method would likely not be as accurate as your current method with the razor scribe directly onto the workpiece. When it is time to use the offset block to transfer the marks back onto the workpiece, the offset block will be 3/4" above your workpiece be they would be sitting on the jig. To solve that, use a block that is thicker than your jig and cut a 3/4" rabbet so the leg reaches down to the workpiece.
If that works for you, is easier and more efficient for you, that’s the route I would go. You might drop your offset blocks, resulting in a needless trip down scaffold.I don’t know. Different strokes for different folks. I’ve noticed this with spencer. He’s all about repeatability and simple. I believe the way he is going about it is such. I know that I’m not a rocket scientist, so the simpler the better. Especially Friday at 4:30 pm…when the crew is ready for the weekend.
Multiple scribe jigs are a must. I have the trend and razorscribe, I also have a scribe tool called 'thingamejig'. A bit big but great for dialing in exact scribe depth.
Incredible.
This is exactly what I am working on at my home and I’m working with old growth 1920 pine that I am repurposing into box beams. It’s dark and I was dreading having to scribe it to the ceiling because it was going to be hard to see my pencil line. Tape and razor is the tits!!!😂. Curved diagonal beams on my box beam trusses are next. Thank you for posting and making me look good. ❤
As always, excellent video! Put a piece of foam pipe insulation on your top scaffold bar to protect your wood work. “If there’s one thing you’ll screw up…”. Yep! Do you make one extra beam just in case?