Thanks for this video! My mom recently bought a 150 year old house and I've been helping her renovate on the weekends. Was at a loss on how to remove the parquet, and this video is super helpful!
Bro I need not to give you an idea because if home depot couldn't help me and you just did I'm on a roll now...thanks for this idea you made my day..bless up.
Hi, remodeling carpenter here. Here's my take: ice chipper? No, use a roofing tear off shovel and a flat bar (prybar) with a hammer for the difficult pieces and around stuff you don't want damaged like base cabinets etc where it may take a little finesse a tear off shovel doesn't let you have. There don't seem to be specific names for the different styles of tear off shovels but i recommend the one that has about a 6" wide spade and like 8 teeth on it. Get a long handled one. The 4' handled ones are about useless. If it's all coming up difficult, rent a machine from a hardware store, and I'd suggest getting it for a day even for a smaller project. There will be a lot of clean up time and unforseen things coming up in between progressing with the machine. To start the initial parquet removal you can probably find a transition bar somewhere where there will be an edge and you can carefully pull that up or not if you're replacing it etc., or you can set your circular saw depth to about 1/4" to plunge cut an edge into it and start there. The fastest way is to make a plunge cut into the parquet in a nice open area in the middle of the floor somewhere - this is something that takes a bit of know how. Now that you've cut into the parquet, look into the cut. Do you see the subfloor yet? No? Add another 1/8" to the depth and try again until you see that wood looking like it's no longer parquet (you should be able to see a transition in the layers of wood peering into the cut)- and don't let that saw kick on you, and don't be behind the saw when you make the plunge cut. Once you find the right depth (and don't worry if you went a little too deep on the test cut as long as you dont cut deep into a joist), depth so you're barely scoring the subfloor or ideally not at all, cut a 1 foot or so square into the parquet and start in on the cut with a chisel or prybar or something and take that little square of parquet out. Once you have an open area with some edges, grab the tear off shovel. If the idea of making a plunge cut scares (and it should at least the first few times you do one), or you don't know what one is - just buzz into the flooring with an oscialliting saw (muilti- tool), you're probably going to need one anyway so just buy one if you don't have one, or just get a little brutal with a prybar and hammer. The parquet is probably only 1/4" thick. Crowbar for base trim removal? No, use a trim pry bar (the really thin L shaped pry bars), don't forget to score the paint if it's sealed the base to the wall (as he did in the video), always remove the shoe trim first (often referred to as "quarter-round"), always try to pry the shoe from the floor up to start and loosen the piece so not to damage the wall or the base trim if not replacing the base trim, then once it's loose you can carefully pry from the top, if the piece is stubborn pry from the bottom until it's given in a bit (if removing base trim use the same method) getting under the molding between it and the floor to start can be a bit difficult but this is the best way to do it - and NO YOU DO NOT HAVE TO REMOVE THE BASE BOARD, you only have to remove the shoe moulding. Yes it sits on the flooring but removing a little bit remaining under the base isn't hard compared to removing base and reinstalling. The difficult stuff is where there is an added wall over the old flooring or sometimes cabinets. That will generally have to be slowly carefully cut out with an oscillating saw (multi tool), or you can use a sawzall if you've removed the base along the problem wall. If you leave the base in, you don't have to reinstall your new flooring perfectly tight to it, your replacement or reinstalled shoe moulding will cover a small gap, just make sure the gap from flooring to base trim will be covered by the shoe - generally 3/8" is the maximum gap you can get away with. As for the remaining glue? yes a heat gun and scraper will work but chances are you'll have to install luan over it unless you're putting carpet down with a good pad or if the new floor is a glue down wood product and the old glue is generally even (the new glue will help to level it out [don't glue luan down though]. Still your luan has to be flush for any LVT or whatever you're installing over it. If the old glue is generally even and the luan will float on it nicely then just leave it. Anywhere the luan sheets butt together it has to be flush so scrape the glue away to make that happen if needed. In the end that can't be any areas where the luan will sink down when walked over or any little humps in it from uneven glue under it. Even on a brand new subfloor, you have to use something like Henry's feather finish on the luan seams after installation or any uneven joints will show through your vinyl especially in high traffic areas. Try to avoid long seams running down high traffic areas and plan the luan installation pattern so they are closer to a wall and minimal down a high traffic area. Straggle the seams of the luan just like the subfloor but do not match the seams to the old subfloor. This just makes the seams worse than they have to be. If the seams are bad, use an electric sander on them before the feather finish (check for high staples b4 you wreck your sandpaper). You can sand the old subfloor joints too if needed. It might be smart to make sure the subfloor is nailed down really good before installing the luan and make sure there are no high nails. You can use screws or the smartest thing to do is just renail all of the subfloor with a framing nail gun and ring shank 2 and 3/8" nails. If there's just a little glue here and there try a floor scraper or a 5 in 1 painters scraper and a hammer if you want it gone. There are also sawzall attachment scraper blades that can make quick work of it but tend to break if you're too hard on them. The luan installation calls for one 16ga 1/4" crown staple every 6 inches in the middle of the sheet and every 2" on the perimeter of each sheet. Use your judgement on the length but it's hard to get wrong if you just go with 1 and 1/4" staples for length. Yes it's 100's of staples per sheet. You'll want a rapid fire stapler, compressor and air hose for this and some nuematic tool oil - you'll likely be shooting a few thousand staples for a smaller project, or milwaukee's m18 1/4" crown stapler rapid fires and doesn't need oil (it's a battery stapler and not cheap). Try to gap your luan from the wall or base trim no more than 1/4". Make sure the staples aren't blowing through the luan. Make sure the staples aren't too high. Adjust the depth on the stapler if needed. Run the 10-12" taping knife you'll need for the feather finish install over the whole floor to detect high staples before applying the feather finish. Knock them down with a hammer before applying the feather finish. If you're lucky, you won't run into a nightmare where there is particle board over the subfloor and it's coming up with the parquet. Then you can rip all of that out and replace it, or try your luck with a machine and patch any damaged particle boar that luan won't float over in a low traffic area. Consider self leveling floor leveler as an option for some damaged areas. Also consider floor leveler anywhere the old glue looks like it will make things come together uneven on any installation. Everything has to be clean before the luan install and then again after. Take the any door slabs in the way off the hinges before any demo. Protect the lower 3' or so of any sliding glass doors or base cabinets etc from flying debris with some carboard or something. Good luck, despite all of this fairly confusing advice, my best advice is to hire a contractor.
Thanks very much for this. Very helpful. The ice breaker certainly is the most effective tool I used to clear 900 sq ft. It makes the job go so much faster. You do need to make sure you’re using the side with the bevel angled down and suggest labelling it as such. You also need to be careful not to damage the sub-floor given the force applied. I found when I met resistance with the ice breaker I simply switched to my claw hammer. This gives much better control and you’re less likely to damage the subfloor. Play around with the angle the claw hits the parquet. I was surprised that I could almost clear as much floor with the claw on my hammer than with the ice breaker. It also gives your back a bit of a rest!
@@yeahyeah5612 it was hard. I called my friends for help, cause doing it alone killed me lmao. It was tough. But the result is astonishingly amazing!! Without this video it would have been a mess hahahaha. Totally recommend watching this video if you are planning to change the parquet. Simple to follow
I was struggling with my ice chipper, and hammer+prybar. Was causing a lot of damage to the plywood subfloor. I just bought an air powered hammer, on sale for $30. Came with a selection of chisels. Seems to be working quite well!
Hey watching this video because I’m interested in just doing it myself. What did you apply on the floor after removing the parquet flooring before applying the new floor?
Hye. I wonder if we have the whole house on parquet but we just want to remove it in the room, is it possible and would it effect the end part where we don't remove it?
Hi Namu, yes this is definitely doable. Leave a 1/2" of space between the new flooring and the parquet then place a floor transition in between both flooring. Good luck!
You must be Canadian using an ice cutter for a floor, good job. I'm Canadian as well but my best tools are my two sons with hammer a spatula and snow shovel. A sharp blade on the shovel scrapes the broken tiles
Thanks for the idea. I was doing it with a flat head and hammer. I have a sod cutter/remover that is about the same shape on the end. Will be trying that in the morning.
Cut into the floor with a circular saw (blade set @ floor depth) in an "*" pattern. Once then, you can take a pry bar and insert it into the saw blade groove to leverage a piece out. Bon voyage from there though.... 🥵👌
iLevel Contracting gave a good option but if you don't have access to a circular saw, you can also use a chisel and hammer and break one of the parquet pieces (more work though). You can also try removing the baseboards and sometimes there are looser pieces near the wall or space to knock one off. Good luck!
Get a Vogt Hammer ( made in Germany) if you are removing old parquet more often. Buy a used one, they last forever, and is not so costly. Great to work with.
@@lightningfisher8177 ahh right nice i just put down some ardex NA levelling compound yesterday id say it went well and i didnt have to use a primer or grind away the bitumen/mastic/tar stuff adheres directly to it sealing the floor
@@paulgabel8261 Best way to estimate the cost is to find the cost of 1 sq/ft of parquet flooring and multiply it by the size of your room. You might want to add 10% to that for any wastage.
I started removing parquet flooring from my living room using these methods but mine id glued down and i keep destroying the plywood underneath. The room is at a tilt and i was planning on using self leveler to correct that once the parquet is removed. Would you advise on putting thin plywood on the spots where the parquet was ripped out and then putting the self leveler over the parquet flooring?
Hi Seb, depending on how much of a tilt you have, I would try putting plywood over all your parquet and see if that reduces the tilt. The issue with putting self leveler over parquet is that parquet is hardwood and hardwood doesn't do well with moisture which most self-levelers are. If you can find a self leveler safe for hardwood than this may be an option. Good luck!
I had the same thought when I purchased my home one room had regular hardwood flooring and the room next to it had parquet. I hired contractors to stain my hardwood floors thinking I could also stain the parquet to something more neutral or close match to the room next to it. They said they couldn’t stain it , I think because sanding it is almost impossible because the grains go all different directions. (If I am remembering correctly) but they definitely said they couldn’t do it. I was very disappointed and now I am removing it to put in laminate flooring :/
Hi Masha, sorry for the late reply. Yes these can be very difficult to remove. I would suggest focusing on small sections at a time then take a break then work on another section. You can also rent an electric scraper from a home hardware store which will make the work easier. Good luck!
It appears to me that you had difficulty removing the baseboard because you did not remove the base shoe (or 1/4 round) first. Both are very easy to remove when you you tackle them separately. Keep up the good work.
You missed the most important thing....starting to remove the parquet floors...you already had some out and that makes it easy for all after the first one.
You really could have said that a lot nicer. Perhaps he is doing it the best way he knows and didn't know he could use a taping knife. This would have been a great opportunity for you to have imparted that knowledge in a constructive manner. Do better next time.
It may look easy because the video is sped up but I'm putting in a lot of force. However, all floors are different so yours may have stronger adhesive. Good Luck!
Thanks for this video! My mom recently bought a 150 year old house and I've been helping her renovate on the weekends. Was at a loss on how to remove the parquet, and this video is super helpful!
I'm glad this video was helpful! Good luck removing the parquet floors!
Bro I need not to give you an idea because if home depot couldn't help me and you just did I'm on a roll now...thanks for this idea you made my day..bless up.
Glad I could help!
Hi, remodeling carpenter here. Here's my take: ice chipper? No, use a roofing tear off shovel and a flat bar (prybar) with a hammer for the difficult pieces and around stuff you don't want damaged like base cabinets etc where it may take a little finesse a tear off shovel doesn't let you have. There don't seem to be specific names for the different styles of tear off shovels but i recommend the one that has about a 6" wide spade and like 8 teeth on it. Get a long handled one. The 4' handled ones are about useless. If it's all coming up difficult, rent a machine from a hardware store, and I'd suggest getting it for a day even for a smaller project. There will be a lot of clean up time and unforseen things coming up in between progressing with the machine. To start the initial parquet removal you can probably find a transition bar somewhere where there will be an edge and you can carefully pull that up or not if you're replacing it etc., or you can set your circular saw depth to about 1/4" to plunge cut an edge into it and start there. The fastest way is to make a plunge cut into the parquet in a nice open area in the middle of the floor somewhere - this is something that takes a bit of know how. Now that you've cut into the parquet, look into the cut. Do you see the subfloor yet? No? Add another 1/8" to the depth and try again until you see that wood looking like it's no longer parquet (you should be able to see a transition in the layers of wood peering into the cut)- and don't let that saw kick on you, and don't be behind the saw when you make the plunge cut. Once you find the right depth (and don't worry if you went a little too deep on the test cut as long as you dont cut deep into a joist), depth so you're barely scoring the subfloor or ideally not at all, cut a 1 foot or so square into the parquet and start in on the cut with a chisel or prybar or something and take that little square of parquet out. Once you have an open area with some edges, grab the tear off shovel. If the idea of making a plunge cut scares (and it should at least the first few times you do one), or you don't know what one is - just buzz into the flooring with an oscialliting saw (muilti- tool), you're probably going to need one anyway so just buy one if you don't have one, or just get a little brutal with a prybar and hammer. The parquet is probably only 1/4" thick. Crowbar for base trim removal? No, use a trim pry bar (the really thin L shaped pry bars), don't forget to score the paint if it's sealed the base to the wall (as he did in the video), always remove the shoe trim first (often referred to as "quarter-round"), always try to pry the shoe from the floor up to start and loosen the piece so not to damage the wall or the base trim if not replacing the base trim, then once it's loose you can carefully pry from the top, if the piece is stubborn pry from the bottom until it's given in a bit (if removing base trim use the same method) getting under the molding between it and the floor to start can be a bit difficult but this is the best way to do it - and NO YOU DO NOT HAVE TO REMOVE THE BASE BOARD, you only have to remove the shoe moulding. Yes it sits on the flooring but removing a little bit remaining under the base isn't hard compared to removing base and reinstalling. The difficult stuff is where there is an added wall over the old flooring or sometimes cabinets. That will generally have to be slowly carefully cut out with an oscillating saw (multi tool), or you can use a sawzall if you've removed the base along the problem wall. If you leave the base in, you don't have to reinstall your new flooring perfectly tight to it, your replacement or reinstalled shoe moulding will cover a small gap, just make sure the gap from flooring to base trim will be covered by the shoe - generally 3/8" is the maximum gap you can get away with. As for the remaining glue? yes a heat gun and scraper will work but chances are you'll have to install luan over it unless you're putting carpet down with a good pad or if the new floor is a glue down wood product and the old glue is generally even (the new glue will help to level it out [don't glue luan down though]. Still your luan has to be flush for any LVT or whatever you're installing over it. If the old glue is generally even and the luan will float on it nicely then just leave it. Anywhere the luan sheets butt together it has to be flush so scrape the glue away to make that happen if needed. In the end that can't be any areas where the luan will sink down when walked over or any little humps in it from uneven glue under it. Even on a brand new subfloor, you have to use something like Henry's feather finish on the luan seams after installation or any uneven joints will show through your vinyl especially in high traffic areas. Try to avoid long seams running down high traffic areas and plan the luan installation pattern so they are closer to a wall and minimal down a high traffic area. Straggle the seams of the luan just like the subfloor but do not match the seams to the old subfloor. This just makes the seams worse than they have to be. If the seams are bad, use an electric sander on them before the feather finish (check for high staples b4 you wreck your sandpaper). You can sand the old subfloor joints too if needed. It might be smart to make sure the subfloor is nailed down really good before installing the luan and make sure there are no high nails. You can use screws or the smartest thing to do is just renail all of the subfloor with a framing nail gun and ring shank 2 and 3/8" nails. If there's just a little glue here and there try a floor scraper or a 5 in 1 painters scraper and a hammer if you want it gone. There are also sawzall attachment scraper blades that can make quick work of it but tend to break if you're too hard on them. The luan installation calls for one 16ga 1/4" crown staple every 6 inches in the middle of the sheet and every 2" on the perimeter of each sheet. Use your judgement on the length but it's hard to get wrong if you just go with 1 and 1/4" staples for length. Yes it's 100's of staples per sheet. You'll want a rapid fire stapler, compressor and air hose for this and some nuematic tool oil - you'll likely be shooting a few thousand staples for a smaller project, or milwaukee's m18 1/4" crown stapler rapid fires and doesn't need oil (it's a battery stapler and not cheap). Try to gap your luan from the wall or base trim no more than 1/4". Make sure the staples aren't blowing through the luan. Make sure the staples aren't too high. Adjust the depth on the stapler if needed. Run the 10-12" taping knife you'll need for the feather finish install over the whole floor to detect high staples before applying the feather finish. Knock them down with a hammer before applying the feather finish. If you're lucky, you won't run into a nightmare where there is particle board over the subfloor and it's coming up with the parquet. Then you can rip all of that out and replace it, or try your luck with a machine and patch any damaged particle boar that luan won't float over in a low traffic area. Consider self leveling floor leveler as an option for some damaged areas. Also consider floor leveler anywhere the old glue looks like it will make things come together uneven on any installation. Everything has to be clean before the luan install and then again after. Take the any door slabs in the way off the hinges before any demo. Protect the lower 3' or so of any sliding glass doors or base cabinets etc from flying debris with some carboard or something. Good luck, despite all of this fairly confusing advice, my best advice is to hire a contractor.
This is the best TH-cam comment I've ever read until the last three words
No one will read this
Thanks very much for this. Very helpful. The ice breaker certainly is the most effective tool I used to clear 900 sq ft. It makes the job go so much faster. You do need to make sure you’re using the side with the bevel angled down and suggest labelling it as such. You also need to be careful not to damage the sub-floor given the force applied. I found when I met resistance with the ice breaker I simply switched to my claw hammer. This gives much better control and you’re less likely to damage the subfloor. Play around with the angle the claw hits the parquet. I was surprised that I could almost clear as much floor with the claw on my hammer than with the ice breaker. It also gives your back a bit of a rest!
I used a sharpened flat hoe to remove some flooring, it was tile but I know it would work with parquet flooring and vinyl flooring like Nafco.
Thank you so much! I will move out soon and the parquets in my new apartment are awful. Your video will certainly help me
How was your expérience on removing this ?
@@yeahyeah5612 it was hard. I called my friends for help, cause doing it alone killed me lmao. It was tough. But the result is astonishingly amazing!! Without this video it would have been a mess hahahaha. Totally recommend watching this video if you are planning to change the parquet. Simple to follow
I was struggling with my ice chipper, and hammer+prybar. Was causing a lot of damage to the plywood subfloor. I just bought an air powered hammer, on sale for $30. Came with a selection of chisels. Seems to be working quite well!
Great idea!
thank you! we just bought an old home & we couldn't figure our how to get the parquet up with out destroying the sub floor!
Thanks, very easy video to follow. You’ve given me the courage to finally remove the parquet flooring from my floors.
Hi Maureen, I'm glad you've got the courage to tackle your own floors. Good luck!
We just bought a house recently with parquet flooring that needs to come out, thanks for the tip!
For a new floor you just put the glue and the tiles or you have to scrub away the residual below the old parquet?
It depends, for my floor I had minimal residue so I didn't have to scrub anything. If there are significant bumps you should remove it.
Hi, thanks for video, after remove the parquet, a layer of glue remains, how do can remove this old glue? thanks a lot
In my case I had no glue residue. You can use a heat gun which will take some time but works. Or you can try using a glue remover like "Goof Off".
Thank you. Thanks to you, I can start removing my parquet!
I'm so grateful for this video I can now update the floor in my dinning room!!!
Hey watching this video because I’m interested in just doing it myself. What did you apply on the floor after removing the parquet flooring before applying the new floor?
Hey! After removing the parquet I added an underlayment before installing the laminate flooring.
What is it and thank you for your immediate response.
Do you have the video about how you placed the underlayment?
@@TheDehelwitya Here is a video of me installing underlayment and laminate flooring: th-cam.com/video/I6H14BBI5zs/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=RenoForLess
Great video. But how do you remove parquet without damaging it?
I'm not sure if this is possible sorry.
Hye. I wonder if we have the whole house on parquet but we just want to remove it in the room, is it possible and would it effect the end part where we don't remove it?
Hi Namu, yes this is definitely doable. Leave a 1/2" of space between the new flooring and the parquet then place a floor transition in between both flooring. Good luck!
You must be Canadian using an ice cutter for a floor, good job. I'm Canadian as well but my best tools are my two sons with hammer a spatula and snow shovel. A sharp blade on the shovel scrapes the broken tiles
Great job! Looking forward to more how to video!
Thanks for the idea. I was doing it with a flat head and hammer. I have a sod cutter/remover that is about the same shape on the end. Will be trying that in the morning.
How did it turn out?
I tried to pull parquet off of the subfloor but it pulled up half the subfloor, will leave it sand it and put in Armstrong Alterna vinyl tile.
Ice chopper thats a good idea. I used the hook end of a hammer which took a long time
Yes, but how did you get that very first one!? That’s where I’m stuck!
Cut into the floor with a circular saw (blade set @ floor depth) in an "*" pattern. Once then, you can take a pry bar and insert it into the saw blade groove to leverage a piece out. Bon voyage from there though.... 🥵👌
iLevel Contracting gave a good option but if you don't have access to a circular saw, you can also use a chisel and hammer and break one of the parquet pieces (more work though). You can also try removing the baseboards and sometimes there are looser pieces near the wall or space to knock one off. Good luck!
Get a Vogt Hammer ( made in Germany) if you are removing old parquet more often.
Buy a used one, they last forever, and is not so costly. Great to work with.
Great demonstration. Thanks!!!
i have this exact floor but underneath is like black tar stuff is there anything under the tar stuff?
mine has aluan underlayment
@@lightningfisher8177 ahh right nice i just put down some ardex NA levelling compound yesterday id say it went well and i didnt have to use a primer or grind away the bitumen/mastic/tar stuff adheres directly to it sealing the floor
I used a Craftsman straight slot and a hammer 🔨 took me a couple hours but I did a whole hall way
Great video! Was just wondering how to remove parquet from my own home. Thanks! Looking forward to your next videos :D
Can you remove the flooring without removing the baseboards?
Hey, you will need to remove the baseboards first because the baseboard sits on top of the flooring
You do not have to remove the base boards. You only have to remove the shoe moulding.
I flooded my living room and need to change about 220 sqr/ft of parquet exactly like this one. How much do you think this will cost me?
I'm sorry to hear about the flooding. Are you planning on changing the floor with laminate or some other type of flooring?
@@renoforless No, I wanted to keep the same style of flooring. I think those are called ''Fingerblock'' Parquet....
@@paulgabel8261 Best way to estimate the cost is to find the cost of 1 sq/ft of parquet flooring and multiply it by the size of your room. You might want to add 10% to that for any wastage.
You did a great job at working on that floor 😍😍😍😍😍😍😍
how do u remove the adhesive without special liquid?
heat gun and scraper - and for a lot of it use an organic vapor respirator and ventialltion
really easy to understand. thanks!
Glad the video helped!
I started removing parquet flooring from my living room using these methods but mine id glued down and i keep destroying the plywood underneath. The room is at a tilt and i was planning on using self leveler to correct that once the parquet is removed. Would you advise on putting thin plywood on the spots where the parquet was ripped out and then putting the self leveler over the parquet flooring?
Hi Seb, depending on how much of a tilt you have, I would try putting plywood over all your parquet and see if that reduces the tilt. The issue with putting self leveler over parquet is that parquet is hardwood and hardwood doesn't do well with moisture which most self-levelers are. If you can find a self leveler safe for hardwood than this may be an option. Good luck!
Great video, thanks for sharing,, now I can do it also,,,take care
You can rent a “compact floor stripper” from Home Depot or wherever if you want some that to take that floor up easier for about $40 for 4 hours.
It doesn’t work as good as this, that is what one of the workers told me when I went to rent it
Great video, looking forward to more!
Rotary demo hammer with floor scraper
Can’t you sand & stain darker? Why would anyone get rid of this?
I had the same thought when I purchased my home one room had regular hardwood flooring and the room next to it had parquet. I hired contractors to stain my hardwood floors thinking I could also stain the parquet to something more neutral or close match to the room next to it. They said they couldn’t stain it , I think because sanding it is almost impossible because the grains go all different directions. (If I am remembering correctly) but they definitely said they couldn’t do it. I was very disappointed and now I am removing it to put in laminate flooring :/
Thanks for the tips! Awesome tutorial :)
Interesting. Thanks for sharing. NL
Thx for the video...
Ours is really difficult to remove, I guess because of the strong glue they used.
Do you have any suggestion to make it easier?
Hi Masha, sorry for the late reply. Yes these can be very difficult to remove. I would suggest focusing on small sections at a time then take a break then work on another section. You can also rent an electric scraper from a home hardware store which will make the work easier. Good luck!
What about the glue?
If you have glue residue you can try scrapping that off as well. Depending on what you plan on installing afterwards you can put underlayment.
It appears to me that you had difficulty removing the baseboard because you did not remove the base shoe (or 1/4 round) first. Both are very easy to remove when you you tackle them separately. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for the video 💪👍
😮😮das wäre wohl der letzte Schritt. Vorher rettet man wohl altes Parkett!!!
Good job. Thanks for the demonstration and demo. Haha.
Great idea
Thanks!
Great video thanks
You missed the most important thing....starting to remove the parquet floors...you already had some out and that makes it easy for all after the first one.
You can either remove it starting with the parquet closes to the wall (under the baseboards) or chip out one or two parquet.
Good video but you don’t have to remove the baseboard that is
Omg . Thank u.
Butter!
For gods sake stop damaging the walls and place a taping knife behind there!
You really could have said that a lot nicer. Perhaps he is doing it the best way he knows and didn't know he could use a taping knife. This would have been a great opportunity for you to have imparted that knowledge in a constructive manner. Do better next time.
Wasn’t that easy for me
It may look easy because the video is sped up but I'm putting in a lot of force. However, all floors are different so yours may have stronger adhesive. Good Luck!
Parquet flooring is the ugliest shit ive ever seen