I just bought a fixer upper. I’m a computer scientist lol. I watch these videos and just do it. Fear is a mother but man it’s worth it when you see the finished product.
Thanks for this. We got ourselves into a fixer upper. I started working on the deck first. I was feeling proud till I realized I did two big booboos (used 1.5” thick boards instead of 1” and ended up cutting the internet cable). Needed to hear something like this so I can just go ahead and fix what I need to fix instead of kicking my own ass.
@@enoch6977 I can accept being wrong, the problem with the young online generation - they are never wrong. I am not here to argue online as it is a meaningless task. You believe you are right and stay that way until you realise you were young and uninformed, you shall learn as you get older and you shall become wise.
Beautifully done and explained. You didn't mention getting all that wood debris out from under the house so the hungry little termites won't have anything to munch on. If the subfloor material is that rotten, I'd spread out a tarp before demolishing. It would be really hard to rake that stuff all out of there before putting down the vapor barrier. Even the smallest amount of wood/construction debris left under the house is an invite to the little critters. Thanks for the video.
You do not have to worry about 1/8 inch between sheet expansion. If you put enough screws you will never have a problem, I never use nails. I have don't this project over 55 times with out a fail. I also never use osb on any floor replacements either. Don't forget to actually vacuum every piece of wood that can come in contact with the ground. This is also a great time to add x bracing and an extra joist in a high traffic area. After clean up, put down a nice vapor barrier to help eliminate some moisture. Im a air leak freak, so I fill the edge where the old and new floor meet with a good lifetime silicone caulk.
I did this at my house with no prior experience of doing any kind of work around the house. Installed laminate flooring on top of my new sub floor too! About a year later, today, I just did drywall for the first time. It's empowering to learn these skills and not have to pay some contractor $125 an hour.
Definitely! I've just repaired my 1990 z71 by replacing the front end suspension and it's drivable again. That felt good...Now since I have my truck back, I'm repairing my house by replacing the foundation and sub floors in a few areas. I was thinking the exact same thing about it being empowering learning these skills and doing it yourself.
Doesn’t hurt to pickup the nails you pull out afterwards with a magnet sweeper if you can. Just in case you ever need to go down in that crawl space later
@@brianstanistreet You can do that, but be careful because you might split the wood if the nail is big and the wood old and dry. Plus, you don't want to be bothered by the old nails when you put the new screws in.
"We could patch just the damaged spot, but our floor might not be perfectly level, so instead we'll redo the entire floor, and the cabinets, that way we know it will be level" 😳 Why not use some floor leveler? 🤔Given the cost of plywood, it would be much cheaper and it would address your concern.
Great tips, just when I think I know what I'm doing, I learn something new. I would have neglected the extra braces for reinforcement and leveling and I would never have thought of adding the glue, thanks.
also I believe that most places code is, if you add the extra braces in the center you are supposed to stagger them and nail them in from the end, not toe nail them in line.
@@mcopeland05 I didn't understand your remark. English isn't my mother tongue. Could you please explain? By "stagger", do you mean they shouldn't be in one line on either side of the existing beams? Why is that? I'm not sure I get what you mean about nailing them either. I am going to do this type of renovation in the coming weeks, so I'm interested in knowing the best way to do it. 🙂
@@NicolasdaLuzDuque toenailing is shooting the nails in at a n angle. By stagger I mean dont put them in a straight line. Also probably best to use hangers, too
Due to a busted pipe and a roof leak, I’m currently tackling this project myself. Thankfully the rotten plywood in certain places in the house is small and only took a few pieces of plywood. Took about 2 days. Now all I got to do is pick a floor style and make a sink cabinet. It’s satisfying seeing you tackling a project yourself
To help you out in the future, your Estwing prybar, that hole you see at the end of it by the claw ... it's not for styling 😉 that's your nail puller, slide the nail in to the tight end of it and pull, would help you so much easier.
no a die grinder beats that... 4inc round disk bud.... you zip them off faster as you dont need to pull out nails.... and if you use a pry bar you turn it sideways not pull back to remove nails from that dumb hole ur talking about.... man ur hand an wrists must hurt an the end of your work days....no??
This video is so helpful. I have rotten floor in my utility room and my 100+ lb dog just put his foot right through a bad spot the other day! I have no extra money to hire a pro and was wondering if this is something I can do myself, and after watching this, I’m totally confident that I can. (Hooray!!)
0:23 on replacing a rotten patch of subflooring: "It's not as scary as it looks." 2:00 : Let's get new gutters and downspouts. 3:00 : full kitchen demo and remodel
They make it look manageable. My luck, I would have a big hole in my floor for weeks. I do like the idea of removing everything and starting from scratch. I really makes sense, especially in old houses, and with the cost of flooring materials.
At the beginning of the video, they even stated it was a result of moisture from the ground! Yet, they install the floor over bare earth. The same thing will happen again.
im just doing the same job on a floor with almost exact same issue, extreme wetness in the crawlspace, same 10x20 ft kitchen/ bathroom space... and as well the rot is most extreme mainly in the center of the room except all my 2x8 joists are rotted beyond repair as well... in removing the entire floors i noticed the walls studs are set on the floors with the band joists sandwiching the outter edges of the plywood flooring between them ... is it best just leave that bit of floor edges well enough alone or is there a process to tackle that situation and replace every bit besides by tearing out all the walls ?
They forgot one important detail. You HAVE to put blocking (boards between floor joists) around the outside next to the walls and if your joists are parallel to a wall you need a rim joist there to hold up the subfloor on the edge by the wall.
@Michael, Agreed, I volunteered on a house in Lafayette, similar situation. Mixer valve in bathroom not tite. Water ran under laminate floor plastic underlayment and rotted out the floor. The mould actually took your breath away like working in a cloud of MDF dust. We , correction, I used Shockwave to knock it down and coated everything with it. Another hazard is Asbestos..Good call Michael, you can volunteer on any job I'm on.
@Michael. I'd give her Kudos for the hands on but not such a high mark for lack of PPE. Was she wearing eye protection. I walk around the site with eye and ear protection, handing them out where needed. That rater than seeing them in the FA shack or worse.Jeez, how much does it take. The girl in the video was wearing sneakers. Stepping on a nail would knock her out of commission for a while plus cost medical bills. Personally, I'd be firing people. I had one guy who didn't take care of himself spend 4 days in the hospital with a Staph infection, not once but twice. He was fired.
So helpful. I bought a home last year and I’ve found my wood panel floors buckling to a point the panels can just be lifted up with minimal effort. I found tons of mold on this black sheet (not sure of the name). It was so bad the sheet was easily torn and I saw even more mold on the wood that’s under that. Not sure if it’s the subfloor or not but I have a lot of work ahead of me.
Yes. Take out the whole bathroom if you can. Get people to help with the tub and toilet and sink/cabinets. Obviously you can re-use those but go ahead and take out the old floors / sub floors and find out why it is rotten. Address that issue then add new subfloors then add your bathtub back, then tile, then add your toilette and cabinets. If you cannot take the tub out have someone go under the house and check to see if the subfloor is still any good. Maybe you will not need to remove the bathtub. Maybe you can do a video and upload it to TH-cam. I would loved to watch. Best!
Mold spores also produce toxins (mycotoxins) that can affect the lungs, skin, and nervous system. But we have no definitive evidence linking them to specific diseases - and no evidence that mold spores cause lung cancer. Exposure to tobacco smoke is the biggest risk factor for lung cancer.
It's amazing the amount of guys I meet in construction who think it's "manly" to not use protection lol. I'd prefer to have me hearing, lungs, and eyes functioning later in life haha.
you can tell this is sponsored by Lowes, I would have used bandstraps to support the lower cabinets, and then work out and in the replacement wood, saving the cabinets, you should use a close cutter saw that cuts right at the wall very easily, everything else is right. good job. jack
You do not need to leave a gap between the sheets of plywood. Plywood does not expand and contract like natural wood. The separate plys are glued with the grains staggered to make the sheets stable.
Agree, I've installed floors over 10 years. The subfloor will expand and contract as one so really a perimeter gap is all that is necessary. Never had a repair on subfloor and I've done a lot.
I'd agree with not having them. If you use tongue and groove this will bind the whole floor as one. Glue the tongue and groove and lay the sheets down on the joist with an acoustic tape on top of the joists. No squeaky floor.
I had a big smile on my face because its the prefect video from start to finish. I’m dealing with the same. Kitchen and living room floor runs together. The house is low and rain water doesn’t drain, it sits next to the house. I will be getting gutters as well as taking on the flooring project. Awesome video and great tips!!
Rule number one: never, ever use particleboard or MDF for a horizontal surface. Not for subfloors, not for roof sheathing. Don't be tempted by the lower price; it's a shoddy product that will not last if there is any moisture at all. Wall sheathing? I don't use particleboard for wall sheathing, but if you must, it may last longer there than on a floor or roof. Builders of quality homes don't use the stuff at all. I use plywood and solid wood. That's it.
What about the old subfloor directly underneath the wall and the subfloor/ foundation? That's about a 4-6" strip all the way around that you just left in there. Seems on this project that was fine, but on mine it's rotten. I'm stressing about how I'm going to get it out of there without tearing the whole building down.
I have a question. I've never taken on a project like shown in this video. In fact I am here trying to learn how to build. I noticed when this man went to demolish the floor that he was standing on bare ground. DIRT. So my problem solving wheels started to spin. I wondered why he didn't do the following after he completed his demolition. 1.)Nail furring strips or 2X2's to the lowest inside part of each of the 2X10's on both sides. 2.)Cut pieces of plywood to fit between each joist while resting on the furring strips or 2X2's. 3.)Nail each cut piece of plywood to the furring strips or 2X2's. 4.)Put insulation on the cut pieces of plywood that you just laid down that went in between the joists. 5.)Proceed to cover the floor and insulation with sheets of plywood as shown in the video. It just seems to me that you could have insulated, prevented moisture and rodent activity and tidied up the under carriage of the house by doing this. I would think that doing all that work from above as apposed to moisture barrier from below would have been smarter and easier. I am probably going to get some flack from this comment. But please understand that I am only trying to learn and not put anyone down.
I toured the floor out of my shed up about 3 months ago and I still haven't gotten it put back in because I've got it jacked up and every time I try to jack up one jack the ceiling and walls shift so it's like oblonged and I'm never going to get it square again so now I'm going to have to tear my whole shed down
We just finished framing repair on a job, 750 SQ ft of demo flooring and subfloor on a 117 year old house. The kitchen had 7 layers of flooring over subfloor. The original subfloor had been cut into, modified, and the structure of the house was destroyed when someone in the 60's added a spiral staircase. After using 24000 lbs of jacks to raise the fallen cantilever bay window, we installed c-channel steel onto sistered floor joists to reinstate the structural integrity of the home. Altogether at this point, we have collected approximately $80K for the space, which includes change orders for illegal wiring, all kinds of framing irregularities and issues, and adding a bunch of nice touches. Total project is a full gut including exterior wall un-racking, collar tie installation, top plate to rafter connections, joist installation, new subfloor, attic insulation removal and mold remediation, new attic insulation, all walls drywalled to level 4, new kitchen, all walls painted, new lighting, new flooring, redevice, man a ton of others. Total project budget is well over $325K. Get into the trades y'all and start a company. You're missing out.
Facts. I got a 20k plus masonry contract that I am about to close on soon. It pays to work with ya hands and it isn’t rocket science. It’s science, but not rocket science.
I have to ask because I’m clueless but Ive been researching this and need someone to solidify the response for me. Are the exterior walls always load bearing and if so in the video don’t they use the reciprocating saw to cut flush to the wall. My real question is if I cut flush to the exterior walls with a reciprocating saw don’t I still need to take out whatever scrap is left under that bottom plate of those walls? An then replace completely with new plywood under the plate or can I do what they did here and just flush it up to the wall (also piece of old plywood that’s still under bottom plate)? Hopefully I’m not making this difficult for myself by overthinking but I need to make sure to stay safe.
You're correct that all exterior walls are load-bearing. And in this video, they did cut flush & leave the original subfloor under that exterior wall. As long as that old plywood isn't damaged, you can just install add'l boards flush to the exterior wall between the joists for the new plywood to rest on (like they did at 5:30). Hope that helps! If you're unsure about the structural integrity of that old subfloor, though, we recommend calling a pro to come take a look.
Dude! Love the silicone wedding band! So many people (including myself)) forget things like jewlery. Degloving is not an injury you just walk away from. Also, before projects give your shot record a glance. A simple tetanus shot is the first line of defense! One crew I worked for would not let employees on job site unless they put proof of tetanus shot in their work contract. Be safe everyone!
B.cody and Ashley, I'm so taken by your information shared, I just purchased a property a lease purchase, I'm a 64 year young nurse that has waited all my life to get this close to a property and I can't find anyone to help me and I'm in tears! I work 16 hour days as a nurse, tell me how to not give up, my money is limited because I bless people but I don't want to become discouraged. Keep making videos. Valerie Washington
Your money should not be limited as a nurse. Just because you bless people. So if the people you blessing is not trying to help you stop blessing. Him put your money towards yourself in your house
Your post is wrongly worded. It comes across that you are blessing others, and feel that you wish to be blessed in a more material and physical form. I know that isn't the case, but it feels like you want free labor with that type of language. Ask in your church if that is the case. If not, then you can talk business. Why not put up an ad at a community college with a woodshop, inside the department bulletin board? Looking for student to replace subflooring. Will pay $25 an hour for 10 hours. Or $250 a room. More jobs available. As an RN, you earn at least 65 an hour in my area.
The one mistake I am seeing is that the boards he is laying down are breaking at the same place for example at 6:20. If the bottom plyboard sheet is a whole sheet the one on top should break in the middle of that one at the 4 foot measurement and so on.
I've added support braces to part of my kitchen before. I measured the distance between the floor joists then cut the 2x10 that I was using since my joists were 2x12's. The support piece was snug and I used a rubber mallet to knock it into place and the screw thru the joist into the support in two places, one screw a little down from the top and did the same from the bottom. Do both ends and that's it.
I have replaced half the joists in my house but I work for a local contractor and we do all kinds of crazy stuff, definitely don’t try it if you aren’t confident, it’s not easy
One small improvement you could do. I see you laid out blocking 4' from the existing floor. That helped carry the edge of the first row of plywood you laid down. Why not continue and do that in the middle of the 8' section you left open (on the next row of plywood). Even if it wasn't 8', it would help. We all typically have lots of scrap wood laying around perfect for blocking. That blocking actually carries the weight better as it distributes the load around the floor (takes out any bouncing you might feel). As long as the blocking fits tight. That is very important. I do this every 4' and the floor is left feeling solid as a rock. Additionally, I would have put a small beam under the joists in the middle of that floor to further strengthen the joists. Maybe you did that. I just couldn't see it. Code might be one thing. I like to have a solid kitchen floor and you have the option of doing that. I didn't see the plastic on the ground. That would be a good time to do this, as the floor being open makes it easy. The plastic should roll up the side of foundation and sealed if possible.
It would have so much easier on their backs to put the vapor barrier down on the bare soil, with all the exposed floor joists. Crawling around in the crawl space after the plywood sub flooring is installed seems so counter productive.
readyset lol YES! I had to do mine recently. Like almost 700/800 ft. And then add BATS up under subfloor and try to clean off & vacuum off the surface mold that grew. Dam it sucked so bad. Hips and back and neck hurt
@readyset. I thought I was the only one to think of that. Open floor also provides light. I'd have raked the whole crawlspace out to get rid of anything unpleasant like snakes. maybe stonesling some gravel on the vapour barrier.
A meaningless argument. To wit, nobody who hasn’t done something themselves has no right to express an opinion on that activity? In order to critique a world leader I have to have held a similar position myself? In order to say whether I like a restaurant, I have to own a restaurant of my own?? Grow up, Sparky. 😏
How did you figure you needed to add the boards in between? What was the deciding factor? Me: Knows nothing about construction but need to replace damaged subflooring.
The diagnose is wrong The moisture was not the issue.... Lack of thought was Florida is the most humid state in the USA It gets Hurricanes Alot of rain And moisture Add to the cheap method of a HOUSE on a few blocks. Buying this house from a builder was a long term waste of money Having a oriented strand board Or chip board as we call it up north is another waste of money At that point You would be also looking at the rest of the house for sub par goods used in the building of the house ..Like lack of gutters to keep water away from the house Proper would be to get treated board remove all rotten woods and garbage from under the house Drop in crushed limestone and rock This keeps Termintes and other critters out Add in 3 inches of closed cell spray foam With this there is no need for a vapor barrier And keeps the house cooler in summer and warmer in winter / However its Florida digging a trench around the house and adding in stone will also help remove water from the sides of the house
Where can I find a plumber/contractor that will replace some wood to fix rot below a bathtub in the Orlando, Florida area? I'm open to getting a new tub and surround as well. I'm just going to do it myself if I can't find a pro.
My tenant destroyed the bathroom by not providing proper ventilation and heat. There's mold on the wall and floor has soft spots. I had to learn how to demo it and I saw you used a skil saw so I'm going to do that.
Thanks! Learned a lot, but still wondering how do you get the old rotted stuff out from under the walls? Mine seems nailed in a few inches behind the drywall even?? Getting it but seems like we are doing something wrong.
The walls are below the subfloor usually so if you're just replacing subfloor in one room you have to cut out the subfloor underneath the other rooms a good couple inches so you can slide your new subfloor up underneath. Also cut the bottom of the wall 2 inch so that you can slide a 2 by 3 underneath
When the house is framed the subfloor is nailed down across the entire floor's footprint creating a structural diaphram that the walls are then framed on top of. If the subfloor is rotted under the sill plates (bottom wall wood course) the wall should be cribbed up and new subfloor material installed all the way to the outside edge of the building. They completely ignored this. By loosing the subfloors mechanical connection to the rim joist, the outside wall isn't very well connected anymore.
The floor of my shop has a hole near the door. Upon further inspection it's rotted all the way under the threshold. It rains a LOT here, so I'm prepared to look up some weather proofing options for around the door. Thanks to this video I feel like I can replace that sheet of flooring pretty easily and not worry about critters coming in to munch on my projects! Right now I have metal mesh and wood covering it until I have time next weekend. 😂
I notice you didn't put a vapor barrier over the bare earth. You're setting yourself up for the same thing to happen again, the moisture will be absorbed by your new floor instead.
@@midmonobody411 Even treated wood still intakes and releases moisture, naturally, so if below the floor is not adequately ventilated then there is a possibility the timbers could be affected.
@@xxDrain actually, having a fan actively bring air in under a house can cause a huge moisture problem during the summer months and during the winter months can cause water and drain lines to burst from freezing.. The best bet is a sealed crawl space with gutters on the outside of the house...
Interior flooring screws are what i would use. Have you addressed what to do if there are floorboards under tour plywood yet? Thanks for the video. Lots of good info.
What would you do if you had to replace subfloor that's underneath a wall? Especially a load bearing wall? This did not appear to be the case in this situation.
I seen a video of someone taking an electric saw of some kind and just lopping off all the nails in one smooth motion I couldn't imagine pulling them all out lol
Ambee Gaming probably a reciprocating saw. Better to pull them though. Quick and easy with a prybar, although I think he didn’t know how to use that pry bar.
We could patch the area, but it might be a lot of work to get the patch at the same height of the floor. So wer'e going to tear the whole kitchen aprart! LOL.
@@bencampbell6132 great! once I got all the subfloor off it was easy from there on.I got new wood flooring installed and saved a lot of money doing it myself.
I have little experience in building but... my home is falling in, and no. 1 is willing to help fix our problems, so I'm considering fixing it myself or selling my home, praying we can afford another home. Idk what to do... I wonder if I can even do it myself
I'm taking out the door of my master bathroom now. The OSB subfloor was nailed and glued with Liquid Nails. It is a nightmare to remove. Can't pry it at all without it just disintegrating 1" at a time.
Thanks; used to work with a fellow that flipped houses and this information is always helpful. Even if you never do the work yourself; you really need to know how the job is supposed to be done. We used to live in a home and the carpenters did such poor work that the house had issues and we had to fix a lot of problems. The poor people who originally owned the home had to sell it because of the rip off carpenters and plumbers. It was a real mess to fix. Thanks guys; nice to see a young couple that has their act together. God Bless.
The first real step is to get over the fear of installing and allowing you to fail once you have that done the world is yours
This right here
I just bought a fixer upper. I’m a computer scientist lol. I watch these videos and just do it. Fear is a mother but man it’s worth it when you see the finished product.
Thanks for this. We got ourselves into a fixer upper. I started working on the deck first. I was feeling proud till I realized I did two big booboos (used 1.5” thick boards instead of 1” and ended up cutting the internet cable). Needed to hear something like this so I can just go ahead and fix what I need to fix instead of kicking my own ass.
Its not that hard, some jobs should seek a professional opinionnor guidance, but if its replacing like for like, than that makes the task alot easier
Is the studs sitting on the top of the old subfloor material. if so how to address that issue?
It was painful watching them pretend to have a conversation with each other, wasn't it?
Came to say this….useful info, but would have preferred they talked to the camera 😅 I couldn’t retain info because I was so annoyed lol
It was particularly badly done, wasn't it???@@candicenava6976
Probably two different directors that didn't communicate with each other.
That's how you make a video, short and packed with the information you need, not a lot of unnecessary chatter just to hear oneself talk.
Thanks!
agreed. lol
You are wrong, videos that are informative like this can be long form content.
No you're wrong. It is with words at it is with sunbeams the more they are condensed, the deeper they burn. But mostly you're just wrong.
@@enoch6977 I can accept being wrong, the problem with the young online generation - they are never wrong. I am not here to argue online as it is a meaningless task. You believe you are right and stay that way until you realise you were young and uninformed, you shall learn as you get older and you shall become wise.
😊7800p
I didn't know Macklemore was so handy.
😂😂😂😂
And his wife is hot too.
💀💀
Can we go thrift shopping?
Elephant Grass simp
Beautifully done and explained. You didn't mention getting all that wood debris out from under the house so the hungry little termites won't have anything to munch on. If the subfloor material is that rotten, I'd spread out a tarp before demolishing. It would be really hard to rake that stuff all out of there before putting down the vapor barrier. Even the smallest amount of wood/construction debris left under the house is an invite to the little critters. Thanks for the video.
I was wondering the same thing ,,,,,,,,,,did you just leave that old rotten wood under the house 🏡😀😀😀
I guess a huge drywet vacuum would get them out
you guys going to good 🧱
You do not have to worry about 1/8 inch between sheet expansion. If you put enough screws you will never have a problem, I never use nails. I have don't this project over 55 times with out a fail. I also never use osb on any floor replacements either. Don't forget to actually vacuum every piece of wood that can come in contact with the ground. This is also a great time to add x bracing and an extra joist in a high traffic area. After clean up, put down a nice vapor barrier to help eliminate some moisture. Im a air leak freak, so I fill the edge where the old and new floor meet with a good lifetime silicone caulk.
I did this at my house with no prior experience of doing any kind of work around the house. Installed laminate flooring on top of my new sub floor too!
About a year later, today, I just did drywall for the first time. It's empowering to learn these skills and not have to pay some contractor $125 an hour.
Definitely! I've just repaired my 1990 z71 by replacing the front end suspension and it's drivable again. That felt good...Now since I have my truck back, I'm repairing my house by replacing the foundation and sub floors in a few areas. I was thinking the exact same thing about it being empowering learning these skills and doing it yourself.
Michael Morgan Nice work.. keep it up. My next project is a bathroom. Wish me luck
Home depot has some free classes also. Check your local home depot and ask for their class schedule. Also buy basic tools.
Alex Ramos I bleed blue not orange sorry
Great job! It is empowering to learn new skills like these that save us lots of money over time. Keep up the good work and keep trying new things!
Doesn’t hurt to pickup the nails you pull out afterwards with a magnet sweeper if you can. Just in case you ever need to go down in that crawl space later
Actually it does.
Use safety shoes....
Or just pound em down with a hammer there not gonna hurt anything
@@brianstanistreet You can do that, but be careful because you might split the wood if the nail is big and the wood old and dry. Plus, you don't want to be bothered by the old nails when you put the new screws in.
@Oliver_B better than one in the knee....
"We could patch just the damaged spot, but our floor might not be perfectly level, so instead we'll redo the entire floor, and the cabinets, that way we know it will be level" 😳 Why not use some floor leveler? 🤔Given the cost of plywood, it would be much cheaper and it would address your concern.
You forgot to show how to get into the corners and which tool is best for that. Also how to remove rotted wood under the base plate.
I love how it hasn’t occurred to anyone to use treated sub-flooring to protect it from moisture. Every house I’ve bought (3 so far) has this issue.
You watched the videos out of order. here's where they explain vapor sheilding.
th-cam.com/video/Tzi7rftE7Pw/w-d-xo.html
Start at 2:08
❤❤❤❤❤
Does treat plywood deter termites too?
It's because it cost 2-3 times the price per sheet.
I love breathing in rotten plywood dust.... Wear a mask guys, c'mon
There's a safety Sally about every 10 comments on vids like these. Lol
Great tips, just when I think I know what I'm doing, I learn something new. I would have neglected the extra braces for reinforcement and leveling and I would never have thought of adding the glue, thanks.
The extra bracing was overkill. Place the boards so that the ends land half on a joist. That's all the support you need.
also I believe that most places code is, if you add the extra braces in the center you are supposed to stagger them and nail them in from the end, not toe nail them in line.
@@justinrice7609 It doesn't hurt to add extra strength in the floor; you never know when you are going to need it.
@@mcopeland05 I didn't understand your remark. English isn't my mother tongue.
Could you please explain? By "stagger", do you mean they shouldn't be in one line on either side of the existing beams? Why is that?
I'm not sure I get what you mean about nailing them either.
I am going to do this type of renovation in the coming weeks, so I'm interested in knowing the best way to do it. 🙂
@@NicolasdaLuzDuque toenailing is shooting the nails in at a n angle. By stagger I mean dont put them in a straight line. Also probably best to use hangers, too
Due to a busted pipe and a roof leak, I’m currently tackling this project myself. Thankfully the rotten plywood in certain places in the house is small and only took a few pieces of plywood. Took about 2 days. Now all I got to do is pick a floor style and make a sink cabinet. It’s satisfying seeing you tackling a project yourself
Can you put insulation in the floors...I heard that you wanted to install a vapor barrier but you didnt show that part...
Only if you actually care about your power bill, like an actual homeowner might..
To help you out in the future, your Estwing prybar, that hole you see at the end of it by the claw ... it's not for styling 😉 that's your nail puller, slide the nail in to the tight end of it and pull, would help you so much easier.
no a die grinder beats that... 4inc round disk bud.... you zip them off faster as you dont need to pull out nails.... and if you use a pry bar you turn it sideways not pull back to remove nails from that dumb hole ur talking about.... man ur hand an wrists must hurt an the end of your work days....no??
This video is so helpful. I have rotten floor in my utility room and my 100+ lb dog just put his foot right through a bad spot the other day! I have no extra money to hire a pro and was wondering if this is something I can do myself, and after watching this, I’m totally confident that I can. (Hooray!!)
0:23 on replacing a rotten patch of subflooring: "It's not as scary as it looks."
2:00 : Let's get new gutters and downspouts.
3:00 : full kitchen demo and remodel
Yeah can I just cheat around my cabinets, lol
They make it look manageable. My luck, I would have a big hole in my floor for weeks. I do like the idea of removing everything and starting from scratch. I really makes sense, especially in old houses, and with the cost of flooring materials.
Did you insulate the crawl space before laying the subfloor?
I would put sheets of plastic on the ground in the crawl space as a moisture barrier
At the beginning of the video, they even stated it was a result of moisture from the ground! Yet, they install the floor over bare earth. The same thing will happen again.
@@kcmaldonado3948 I will not happen with treated wood especially made for wet climates.
@@gigiis526 Treated simply means treated to not rot or decay, it will still absorb moisture! Use a vapor barrier
Not in the south, it creates a mold issue, and crawl space fans will short out if it flash floods
Man. Where was this video a year ago, when I was doing the same thing to my house.
Now l know why my floor squeaks, too late. 🤦🏻♂️
Look up fixing squeaky floorboards, should be the first video. You might be able to screw straight down and fix it.
Dj Brandenburg thanks!!
im just doing the same job on a floor with almost exact same issue, extreme wetness in the crawlspace, same 10x20 ft kitchen/ bathroom space... and as well the rot is most extreme mainly in the center of the room except all my 2x8 joists are rotted beyond repair as well... in removing the entire floors i noticed the walls studs are set on the floors with the band joists sandwiching the outter edges of the plywood flooring between them ... is it best just leave that bit of floor edges well enough alone or is there a process to tackle that situation and replace every bit besides by tearing out all the walls ?
Did we get a verdict on this??
They forgot one important detail. You HAVE to put blocking (boards between floor joists) around the outside next to the walls and if your joists are parallel to a wall you need a rim joist there to hold up the subfloor on the edge by the wall.
Please wear a face mask when demo-ing.....
@Michael, Agreed, I volunteered on a house in Lafayette, similar situation. Mixer valve in bathroom not tite. Water ran under laminate floor plastic underlayment and rotted out the floor. The mould actually took your breath away like working in a cloud of MDF dust. We , correction, I used Shockwave to knock it down and coated everything with it. Another hazard is Asbestos..Good call Michael, you can volunteer on any job I'm on.
Roger Dickinson I watched another video where a new mother was on her back under a shed trying to fit insulated sheets with no face mask on.
@Michael. I'd give her Kudos for the hands on but not such a high mark for lack of PPE. Was she wearing eye protection. I walk around the site with eye and ear protection, handing them out where needed. That rater than seeing them in the FA shack or worse.Jeez, how much does it take. The girl in the video was wearing sneakers. Stepping on a nail would knock her out of commission for a while plus cost medical bills. Personally, I'd be firing people. I had one guy who didn't take care of himself spend 4 days in the hospital with a Staph infection, not once but twice. He was fired.
@@rogerdickinson920 PPE? Who are you, OSHA?
Personal protective equipment.
I'm sure the rest of the houses subfloor is wrotten as well
Probably but not as much
I had the same problem, it turned out to be a witches course. With simple voodoo the problem was solved.
So helpful. I bought a home last year and I’ve found my wood panel floors buckling to a point the panels can just be lifted up with minimal effort. I found tons of mold on this black sheet (not sure of the name). It was so bad the sheet was easily torn and I saw even more mold on the wood that’s under that. Not sure if it’s the subfloor or not but I have a lot of work ahead of me.
My sub flooring is particle board and rotten do I cut it all up it’s in a 5ft by 5 ft bathroom
Yes. Take out the whole bathroom if you can. Get people to help with the tub and toilet and sink/cabinets. Obviously you can re-use those but go ahead and take out the old floors / sub floors and find out why it is rotten. Address that issue then add new subfloors then add your bathtub back, then tile, then add your toilette and cabinets. If you cannot take the tub out have someone go under the house and check to see if the subfloor is still any good. Maybe you will not need to remove the bathtub. Maybe you can do a video and upload it to TH-cam. I would loved to watch. Best!
Oh my God I had the worst company do this for me . 😮
Wet wood, rot, mold and no breathing protection.
Allen Herinckx that ain’t toxic! It just smells bad. No mask needed.
Mold spores also produce toxins (mycotoxins) that can affect the lungs, skin, and nervous system. But we have no definitive evidence linking them to specific diseases - and no evidence that mold spores cause lung cancer. Exposure to tobacco smoke is the biggest risk factor for lung cancer.
Womb Raider love the name
It's amazing the amount of guys I meet in construction who think it's "manly" to not use protection lol. I'd prefer to have me hearing, lungs, and eyes functioning later in life haha.
you can tell this is sponsored by Lowes, I would have used bandstraps to support the lower cabinets, and then work out and in the replacement wood, saving the cabinets, you should use a close cutter saw that cuts right at the wall very easily, everything else is right. good job. jack
You do not need to leave a gap between the sheets of plywood. Plywood does not expand and contract like natural wood. The separate plys are glued with the grains staggered to make the sheets stable.
Plus there is going to be a gap with could allow moisture to rise through, potentially damaging the flooring above, not very water and air tight.
Agree, I've installed floors over 10 years. The subfloor will expand and contract as one so really a perimeter gap is all that is necessary. Never had a repair on subfloor and I've done a lot.
I'd agree with not having them. If you use tongue and groove this will bind the whole floor as one. Glue the tongue and groove and lay the sheets down on the joist with an acoustic tape on top of the joists. No squeaky floor.
I had a big smile on my face because its the prefect video from start to finish. I’m dealing with the same. Kitchen and living room floor runs together. The house is low and rain water doesn’t drain, it sits next to the house. I will be getting gutters as well as taking on the flooring project. Awesome video and great tips!!
I know how to do the subfloor in the manner you have shown. However, what if it is rotten under the walls or exterior walls?
Rule number one: never, ever use particleboard or MDF for a horizontal surface. Not for subfloors, not for roof sheathing. Don't be tempted by the lower price; it's a shoddy product that will not last if there is any moisture at all. Wall sheathing? I don't use particleboard for wall sheathing, but if you must, it may last longer there than on a floor or roof.
Builders of quality homes don't use the stuff at all. I use plywood and solid wood. That's it.
My house is pier and beam.
Doesn't seem so intimidating now. Now I just have to get started
What about the old subfloor directly underneath the wall and the subfloor/ foundation? That's about a 4-6" strip all the way around that you just left in there. Seems on this project that was fine, but on mine it's rotten. I'm stressing about how I'm going to get it out of there without tearing the whole building down.
It's not easy. I just had to do the same. Do a little at a time and build a temporary support wall underneath if you can.
I have a question. I've never taken on a project like shown in this video. In fact I am here trying to learn how to build. I noticed when this man went to demolish the floor that he was standing on bare ground. DIRT. So my problem solving wheels started to spin. I wondered why he didn't do the following after he completed his demolition.
1.)Nail furring strips or 2X2's to the lowest inside part of each of the 2X10's on both sides.
2.)Cut pieces of plywood to fit between each joist while resting on the furring strips or 2X2's.
3.)Nail each cut piece of plywood to the furring strips or 2X2's.
4.)Put insulation on the cut pieces of plywood that you just laid down that went in between the joists.
5.)Proceed to cover the floor and insulation with sheets of plywood as shown in the video.
It just seems to me that you could have insulated, prevented moisture and rodent activity and tidied up the under carriage of the house by doing this. I would think that doing all that work from above as apposed to moisture barrier from below would have been smarter and easier. I am probably going to get some flack from this comment. But please understand that I am only trying to learn and not put anyone down.
Or you can have an old house, where the sub floor is rough cut lumber! (like my 1910 house that needs parts of the subfloor replaced).
I'm scared to see how much this is going to cost us. I'm even more scared of our floors collapsing.
I toured the floor out of my shed up about 3 months ago and I still haven't gotten it put back in because I've got it jacked up and every time I try to jack up one jack the ceiling and walls shift so it's like oblonged and I'm never going to get it square again so now I'm going to have to tear my whole shed down
We just finished framing repair on a job, 750 SQ ft of demo flooring and subfloor on a 117 year old house. The kitchen had 7 layers of flooring over subfloor. The original subfloor had been cut into, modified, and the structure of the house was destroyed when someone in the 60's added a spiral staircase. After using 24000 lbs of jacks to raise the fallen cantilever bay window, we installed c-channel steel onto sistered floor joists to reinstate the structural integrity of the home. Altogether at this point, we have collected approximately $80K for the space, which includes change orders for illegal wiring, all kinds of framing irregularities and issues, and adding a bunch of nice touches. Total project is a full gut including exterior wall un-racking, collar tie installation, top plate to rafter connections, joist installation, new subfloor, attic insulation removal and mold remediation, new attic insulation, all walls drywalled to level 4, new kitchen, all walls painted, new lighting, new flooring, redevice, man a ton of others. Total project budget is well over $325K. Get into the trades y'all and start a company. You're missing out.
Facts. I got a 20k plus masonry contract that I am about to close on soon. It pays to work with ya hands and it isn’t rocket science. It’s science, but not rocket science.
Sounds like a "TEAR DOWN." Might have made more sense than fixing garbage...
@@troybush5899 we recommended it but the customer wanted to try and salvage what was existing.
Take a shot each time he says BUUUUUUUUuuuuut
I have to ask because I’m clueless but Ive been researching this and need someone to solidify the response for me. Are the exterior walls always load bearing and if so in the video don’t they use the reciprocating saw to cut flush to the wall. My real question is if I cut flush to the exterior walls with a reciprocating saw don’t I still need to take out whatever scrap is left under that bottom plate of those walls? An then replace completely with new plywood under the plate or can I do what they did here and just flush it up to the wall (also piece of old plywood that’s still under bottom plate)? Hopefully I’m not making this difficult for myself by overthinking but I need to make sure to stay safe.
You're correct that all exterior walls are load-bearing. And in this video, they did cut flush & leave the original subfloor under that exterior wall. As long as that old plywood isn't damaged, you can just install add'l boards flush to the exterior wall between the joists for the new plywood to rest on (like they did at 5:30). Hope that helps! If you're unsure about the structural integrity of that old subfloor, though, we recommend calling a pro to come take a look.
Dude! Love the silicone wedding band! So many people (including myself)) forget things like jewlery. Degloving is not an injury you just walk away from. Also, before projects give your shot record a glance. A simple tetanus shot is the first line of defense! One crew I worked for would not let employees on job site unless they put proof of tetanus shot in their work contract. Be safe everyone!
"It's not as scary as it looks" (0:23). This is what I admire about re-modelers (don't know if that's a word). Thanks.
yes it is....at least in my world it is.
B.cody and Ashley, I'm so taken by your information shared, I just purchased a property a lease purchase, I'm a 64 year young nurse that has waited all my life to get this close to a property and I can't find anyone to help me and I'm in tears! I work 16 hour days as a nurse, tell me how to not give up, my money is limited because I bless people but I don't want to become discouraged. Keep making videos. Valerie Washington
Your money should not be limited as a nurse. Just because you bless people. So if the people you blessing is not trying to help you stop blessing. Him put your money towards yourself in your house
Your post is wrongly worded. It comes across that you are blessing others, and feel that you wish to be blessed in a more material and physical form. I know that isn't the case, but it feels like you want free labor with that type of language. Ask in your church if that is the case.
If not, then you can talk business. Why not put up an ad at a community college with a woodshop, inside the department bulletin board? Looking for student to replace subflooring. Will pay $25 an hour for 10 hours. Or $250 a room. More jobs available.
As an RN, you earn at least 65 an hour in my area.
You will become discouraged, so go find a small, fixed up home and enjoy your retirement. Sell that money pit, and cut your losses.
Awesome video, but how do you do this if there is a basement under the sub-floor? How do you not fall through to the basement?
Use a ladder when you don’t have anymore room to stand on?
This is a quality work unlike the apartment I rent that just covers up stuff making things worse in the end.
The one mistake I am seeing is that the boards he is laying down are breaking at the same place for example at 6:20.
If the bottom plyboard sheet is a whole sheet the one on top should break in the middle of that one at the 4 foot measurement and so on.
Did you test that old tile for asbestos?
How come you didn't add vapor barrier and insulation under the floor boards ?
I wish there had been a bit more detail on how to add the support braces, or what to do if the beams are also damaged, but nice video nonetheless.
I've added support braces to part of my kitchen before. I measured the distance between the floor joists then cut the 2x10 that I was using since my joists were 2x12's. The support piece was snug and I used a rubber mallet to knock it into place and the screw thru the joist into the support in two places, one screw a little down from the top and did the same from the bottom. Do both ends and that's it.
The braces aren't that hard to do, damaged beams on the other hand, you'd probably be better getting a licensed and insured contractor to do.
Ryan Slemmer Good to know!
I have replaced half the joists in my house but I work for a local contractor and we do all kinds of crazy stuff, definitely don’t try it if you aren’t confident, it’s not easy
So, you left in place the rotten subflooring under the exterior wall's bottom plate?
This was an excellent video I love that you all explained the floor this is exactly what I was looking for and I am a beginner on repairs. Amazing 💗
Did you just leave the the pile of rotten wood and cover it with subflooring ?
One small improvement you could do. I see you laid out blocking 4' from the existing floor. That helped carry the edge of the first row of plywood you laid down. Why not continue and do that in the middle of the 8' section you left open (on the next row of plywood). Even if it wasn't 8', it would help. We all typically have lots of scrap wood laying around perfect for blocking. That blocking actually carries the weight better as it distributes the load around the floor (takes out any bouncing you might feel). As long as the blocking fits tight. That is very important. I do this every 4' and the floor is left feeling solid as a rock. Additionally, I would have put a small beam under the joists in the middle of that floor to further strengthen the joists. Maybe you did that. I just couldn't see it. Code might be one thing. I like to have a solid kitchen floor and you have the option of doing that. I didn't see the plastic on the ground. That would be a good time to do this, as the floor being open makes it easy. The plastic should roll up the side of foundation and sealed if possible.
We take a 7 inch angle grinder to the nails. It cuts them instantly upon contact with the wheel. Clearing a joist just takes minutes.
This guy is more scared of his partner then cutting his leg off
Why didn’t they encapsulate the crawl space while it was open?
It would have so much easier on their backs to put the vapor barrier down on the bare soil, with all the exposed floor joists.
Crawling around in the crawl space after the plywood sub flooring is installed seems so counter productive.
readyset lol YES! I had to do mine recently. Like almost 700/800 ft. And then add BATS up under subfloor and try to clean off & vacuum off the surface mold that grew. Dam it sucked so bad. Hips and back and neck hurt
@readyset. I thought I was the only one to think of that. Open floor also provides light. I'd have raked the whole crawlspace out to get rid of anything unpleasant like snakes. maybe stonesling some gravel on the vapour barrier.
Can a home owner DIY with out a permit?
How many hours of work? Like actual dedicated work?
Saying impordant sounds stupid. There's a T in there folks.
So you guys breathed all that molded wood dust? You're less queasy than me?
Good job BTW. Very interesting demonstration.
Thank you for the very informative video. Amazing how many people make snide comments. Yet, where are their videos?
A meaningless argument. To wit, nobody who hasn’t done something themselves has no right to express an opinion on that activity?
In order to critique a world leader I have to have held a similar position myself? In order to say whether I like a restaurant, I have to own a restaurant of my own??
Grow up, Sparky. 😏
How did you figure you needed to add the boards in between? What was the deciding factor? Me: Knows nothing about construction but need to replace damaged subflooring.
My guess is, they added them to support the ends of the plywood sheets so all edges of the ply are nailed down
And was the remaining plywood sound that was underneath the exterior walls? The full weight of the walls and roof is still on them.
They said in the video they attached it to the substructure of the house @ 5:28.
Angle grinder is an option and god please add a dust mask to the PPE, saw dust is carcinogenic
The diagnose is wrong The moisture was not the issue.... Lack of thought was Florida is the most humid state in the USA It gets Hurricanes Alot of rain And moisture
Add to the cheap method of a HOUSE on a few blocks. Buying this house from a builder was a long term waste of money Having a oriented strand board Or chip board as we call it up north is another waste of money At that point You would be also looking at the rest of the house for sub par goods used in the building of the house ..Like lack of gutters to keep water away from the house
Proper would be to get treated board remove all rotten woods and garbage from under the house Drop in crushed limestone and rock This keeps Termintes and other critters out Add in 3 inches of closed cell spray foam With this there is no need for a vapor barrier And keeps the house cooler in summer and warmer in winter / However its Florida
digging a trench around the house and adding in stone will also help remove water from the sides of the house
awesome job. it is tedious work, and takes a lot of time, but with this smart process it made it seem doable.
Particle board should never be used for subfloor. What about the rotten plywood under your exterior wall base plates.
Extremely Helpful. Just what I was looking for. Thankfully it's only a small guest bathroom with a floor that needs replacing. Thanks
HE DIDN'T TAKE THE BATTERY OUT BEFORE ADJUSTING THE BLADE! THIS IS SAFETY 101!
I just use a grinder for the nails
Where can I find a plumber/contractor that will replace some wood to fix rot below a bathtub in the Orlando, Florida area? I'm open to getting a new tub and surround as well.
I'm just going to do it myself if I can't find a pro.
When the nails are all stood up after tearing the plywood I just flatten them
Actually a good job.
My tenant destroyed the bathroom by not providing proper ventilation and heat. There's mold on the wall and floor has soft spots. I had to learn how to demo it and I saw you used a skil saw so I'm going to do that.
Thanks! Learned a lot, but still wondering how do you get the old rotted stuff out from under the walls? Mine seems nailed in a few inches behind the drywall even?? Getting it but seems like we are doing something wrong.
The walls are below the subfloor usually so if you're just replacing subfloor in one room you have to cut out the subfloor underneath the other rooms a good couple inches so you can slide your new subfloor up underneath. Also cut the bottom of the wall 2 inch so that you can slide a 2 by 3 underneath
Dustin Ingram do you know what people who do this are called? I want someone similar in my area to do this for me
When the house is framed the subfloor is nailed down across the entire floor's footprint creating a structural diaphram that the walls are then framed on top of. If the subfloor is rotted under the sill plates (bottom wall wood course) the wall should be cribbed up and new subfloor material installed all the way to the outside edge of the building. They completely ignored this. By loosing the subfloors mechanical connection to the rim joist, the outside wall isn't very well connected anymore.
The floor of my shop has a hole near the door. Upon further inspection it's rotted all the way under the threshold. It rains a LOT here, so I'm prepared to look up some weather proofing options for around the door. Thanks to this video I feel like I can replace that sheet of flooring pretty easily and not worry about critters coming in to munch on my projects!
Right now I have metal mesh and wood covering it until I have time next weekend. 😂
@ 3:10 ...SAFETY GEAR...you FORGOT a RESPIRATOR (better than a "dust mask")....PROTECT your LUNGS!!! Lots of gross debris in the air!
I notice you didn't put a vapor barrier over the bare earth. You're setting yourself up for the same thing to happen again, the moisture will be absorbed by your new floor instead.
Well they talked about adding a fan in there to improve airflow and redirecting rainwater farther away from the house, so that might do the trick.
It's why they used treated wood as well. It will not rot
@@midmonobody411 Even treated wood still intakes and releases moisture, naturally, so if below the floor is not adequately ventilated then there is a possibility the timbers could be affected.
@@xxDrain actually, having a fan actively bring air in under a house can cause a huge moisture problem during the summer months and during the winter months can cause water and drain lines to burst from freezing..
The best bet is a sealed crawl space with gutters on the outside of the house...
Interior flooring screws are what i would use. Have you addressed what to do if there are floorboards under tour plywood yet? Thanks for the video. Lots of good info.
All the rotting subfloor under the walls, supporting the entire structure... Dont worry about those!
People don’t care how much you know until they know how much you care, thanks a lot, I up for the Challenge after watching this 🙏
What would you do if you had to replace subfloor that's underneath a wall? Especially a load bearing wall? This did not appear to be the case in this situation.
Dig out the rotten wood and glue in a new piece of wood. Small sections at a time
...y’all aren’t actors so stop acting just have a normal conversation
STFU
Dust masks courtesy of Lowe’s! 😂
Thank you !!!! I have 6 months tried to find a video with a really step by step like this. You are amazing!!!!!
I seen a video of someone taking an electric saw of some kind and just lopping off all the nails in one smooth motion I couldn't imagine pulling them all out lol
Ambee Gaming probably a reciprocating saw. Better to pull them though. Quick and easy with a prybar, although I think he didn’t know how to use that pry bar.
angle grinder would work too, but, pulling them out with a claw hammer is probably just as quick
I'm getting ready to replace a kitchen floor with a sub floor. This has been a real help. Thanks
We could patch the area, but it might be a lot of work to get the patch at the same height of the floor. So wer'e going to tear the whole kitchen aprart! LOL.
Just curious how the kobalt tools hold up over time? I typically use dewalt and some Milwaukee. Always up to try something new.
How much a project like this cost?
Awesome can’t wait to fix my flooring.
how did it go?
@@bencampbell6132 great! once I got all the subfloor off it was easy from there on.I got new wood flooring installed and saved a lot of money doing it myself.
I have little experience in building but... my home is falling in, and no. 1 is willing to help fix our problems, so I'm considering fixing it myself or selling my home, praying we can afford another home. Idk what to do... I wonder if I can even do it myself
I'm taking out the door of my master bathroom now. The OSB subfloor was nailed and glued with Liquid Nails. It is a nightmare to remove. Can't pry it at all without it just disintegrating 1" at a time.
Thanks; used to work with a fellow that flipped houses and this information is always helpful. Even if you never do the work yourself; you really need to know how the job is supposed to be done. We used to live in a home and the carpenters did such poor work that the house had issues and we had to fix a lot of problems. The poor people who originally owned the home had to sell it because of the rip off carpenters and plumbers. It was a real mess to fix. Thanks guys; nice to see a young couple that has their act together. God Bless.
Replumb entire houseUo
@@lionelchurchill937 what