I'm not sure if you'll see this, but thanks for sharing your drone project. I wanted to take a second to compliment how genuinely kind and friendly you come off in your videos. It's nice to have people of your caliber sharing content. I just wanted to thank you for it. Keep on succeeding! 🎉
This may be true, but for the build volume we had available this orientation was needed. The drone has been flown for many hours and is still whole and undamaged showing no signs of layer adhesion issues.
Great question! Right now, the range is good, but it could be better. So, we would probably change the batteries from li-po to li-ion batteries for the energy density. That would enable longer range flights!
No, in this case that was the method for the specific materials we were using in our print. Whatever best practice you have for cleaning and removing support material is fine.
do you know of a good motor/control/headset for building drones? A kit or? I want to get my son into it, but we don't need the drones as we will priint our own. Thanks in advance.
Depending on the type pf breakage there may be other options like glue epoxy or some other mechanical repair. If you find that repair is frequent we can always go back to solidworks and redesign the frame to make the part repairable without printing the whole frame.
for PETG superglue (locktite 401) seems to do the trick. But only if its a single break, not shattered to many little pieces. And obviously, if you collect all the pieces (not always the case if you fly into a tree :))
A very nice model, good material choice and sound design. That said as others pointed out the Main Body should be printed lying down to save support material, time and have the layers aligned parralel to the ground. Keep it up !
@@minonim8749 I just started watching this video and was checking the comments to know how good it really is and I hadn't noticed how small the build plate is so thank you
@@jackgames3009 his print bed in the video is quite large i use a ender 3 and compared to mine his is way larger and wont fit the same, in comparison to yours i wont know but his print bed it quite large than most average printers
So many opinions here on build orientation and challenging the engineer's thought process. Consider that they are showcasing the capabilities of a professional/industrial 3D printer. He threw it in there in an orientation most would be frightened to tackle with their hobby level printer. A day (plus) of printing and the parts came out flawless. No need to design to the printer's capabilities, it'll just roll with it!
flawless? I saw a ton of stringing. I guarentee he had to do a bunch of cleanup on it. I was gonna say he probably should have used an ender3 and just glued it together. would have turned out cleaner.
@@mslindqu no problem. Me neither. Just researching. About to set up my printer... From what I gather, main thing that would cause problems would be layer offsets, weak layer adhesion if cooling or layer height isn't done right, and low infill percentages leading to structural weakness. The guy in this video has a really good looking print... His machine probably costs well over 1-2k with the dual filament and slick layers (he might just be using a makerspace in his area)
Thanks for the video. Inspired me to get into this hobby. I am making this right now. You are so close to having a massively popular drone building guide. What size are your props? I think mine are too small. One separate video showing how you wired up the flight stack would be golden. I literally have all the parts in your list and am trying to see how your flight stack is configured...sorry, I am a newb with drones but have experience with lots of other RC stuff...I didn't realize how involved this hobby is. Currently training in flight simulators so I don't wreck this on the first flight...
I believe they are 5" tri blade props. For wiring, the best you can do is follow the speedybee manual for the flight stack. As long as you wire similar to that, you should be golden. The most important thing you can do is to power the drone via USB and use the speedy bee app to watch the orientation of the drone. You will want to tilt it foward, sideways, etc and make sure that it shows the same movements in the app to confirm everything is oriented correctly.
Thanks for sharing this fascinating drone project. Nice end result. What filament was the drone printed with? I can not seem to find mention of filaments used. Also curious what the printed frame weighted before the electronics and camera were added. Clearly the support structure is a different material. It's interesting that can be easily removed.
He mentions the mass in cubic inches and the slicer showed it too. It translates to about 380g. The filaments are shown on the printers display, ABS and QSR. I would recommend looking at some more advanced filaments like various carbon fiber infused ones or Aero-PLA if you plan on building something light. I am sure you could cut off a lot of weight using one of those.
You could certainly load these files into CAD and cut them up for a smaller printer. Your results may vary depending on how you cut and join the printed bodies. Additionally PLA is not as strong as the ABS so there may be some design considerations that need to be looked into
Can you give us some assistance? We bought all of the components listed, and we have power to the components but we cannot connect to the speedy bee app. We are at a loss as to how to communicate with the components to get them to function.
Hi, sorry to hear you are having trouble. Are you able to connect to the speedy bee flight stack via usb C using beta flight configurator? If that works, I would recommend double checking if you have the right flight controller in speedy bee app selected and Bluetooth is enabled. If that is correct, I would try using another phone to try and connect. If those steps don’t work, can you share a picture of your wiring with the USB plugged in? Best of luck and keep us updated so we can help!
I'm very new to Drones as a hobby, I mean, I've flown and crashed your typical cheap gift drone, but I'm ready to 3d Print! Would you say this drone can be used to film cinematic video or is it a tad bit too touchy? I have a few projects that would benefit from drone footage and this would be an awesome, cost effective solution to the other expensive names that I have trouble opening my wallet to. Thanks for your amazing creativity btw!
since no one replied, although my knowledge on flight controllers is shallow, im fairly sure you can soften input reaction for smoother control. also, simply put, a standard xiaomi drone still costs less than all of that (and yes you can still attach an action cam to it, the drone will just be a bit heavier and trickier to take off/land)
Hello There! While this drone would have less software features then a store bought drone at comparable price, it is capable of lifting more with a longer flight time as well as having a longer range on the transmitter. By using 3D printing. it is possible to create a design that fits the application that one is trying to do without compromise. Thanks!
@@TorontoFPV This. How much does it weigh? What are the flight characteristics of a 3d printer drone frame versus carbon fiber? Should send this to Chris Rosser and let him have an examination at it. :)
did you not see that if he laid it flat it would be bigger than the plate? you can tell its too big as soon as he shows the cad drawing of it standing up in down. That's the reason he put it in vertical orientation other than horizontal. Hes able to print all his pieces at 1 time! If it did fit flat, that would be the only thing he'd be able to print.
I found them in about 5 seconds with a Google search. Not that hard to figure out. I swear people literally need spoonfed every little detail or they complain.
Hey bro, how do I communicate with you, I am taking inspiration from your drone to make my final year project, how do I show you challenges I am facing and hopefully you can help
The printers used here are industrial grade printers. You could use consumer grade printers to build these models, your support structures maybe different or you might have to cut the model to fit those printers as they tend to be smaller.
im designing a drone with 4×2hp motors and a 192ah battery pack the tosp wwight will be something like 10kg or 20lbs for u americans and dont know what size prop to use im think of making one from steel 2mm sheetmetal with 12 blades
Where do you get your motors from? I'm learning to use an arduino uno board with some small stepper motors for some drone proto-types but I'm interested in the hardware choice you use for larger models.
So yeah, almost no one has a printer like that..,.. Would be interesting to see this printed on a FDM printer, my ASA prints on my printer usualy have to much flex in the frame arms..... not usable for a drone.
Oh no 🙈 Why on earth would you print this standing up? Will be very weak... The parts you want strong (the arms) would be 10x stronger printing it laying down. Also why so freaking much support on the motor arm? You shouldn't even need it there..
With a tiny bit more thought put into the modeling this all could have been printed flat without any support material... The fact that you have these expensive machines and you don't know how to do this properly is baffling to me... The end result is neat just not the way you got there.
@Johan Fasth If it did fit it certainly would have been a close fit but regardless of that it could have been designed so it would fit. It could have easily been split up into 4 arms, the square body and the curved cover in order to fit everything and print it all without any support material or even expensive printers like this one.
The professional engineering truth (not hobby) is you do not want the engineer to spend the time and resources to become a 3D printing expert. These seriously overpriced machines are made so the design concept is proven quickly instead of forcing you to design for the printer. I would say the fact he could throw in a print like that with successful testing is a feature.
@@erickvega2631 in real world there is also a concept called "design for manufacturing" :) you don't just design something, you design it so it is cost, time and labour efficient. And I agree with the original comment about arms strength vs layer direction of the print.
@@erickvega2631 Design concept would be proven quicker if he had just used a Prusa printer, much cheaper than his industrial machine and better print quality, no need of a purge tower at all 😂In the real world, we would print this face down, saving both the material and print time by orders of magnitude
@@erickvega2631 the basic principles of designing for 3D printing aren’t hard to grasp, any engineer should be able to so it without much trouble. Even without changing the part at all they could have easily laid it flat on the bed. This doesn’t even seem like a prototype, it seems just like a side project but even then making very basic mistakes like that is ridiculous.
Для 3д печати, плоские и тем более широкие лучи - так себе идея. Широкие лучи, когда они ниже винта - создают сопротивление направленному вниз потоку воздуха. Для модели 3д лучше сделать более толстые но узкие лучи, например в виде трубы (в которую еще можно спрятать провода), узкие лучи - меньше сопротивления воздуха - больше подъемной силы и скорости - к тому же, лучи будут более прочными с таким же расходом пластика.
The Flight time is very dependent on the type of flying your are doing. In this case we have not done any practical testing of the absolute limits, however we have had it in the air for 30+ mins doing slow and gentle cinematic photography. We have also run the battery down in about 20 mins doing higher speed acrobatics. Battery condition also degrades over time so fresh batteries and conservative flying should allow for a very long flight time.
Yea but this is a black op drone. You don’t have to send dji a birth certificate and blood sample a let them know everyone you fly, you can fly it off grid and it’ll fly in the no fly zones when the apocalypse commences.
I'm not sure if you'll see this, but thanks for sharing your drone project. I wanted to take a second to compliment how genuinely kind and friendly you come off in your videos. It's nice to have people of your caliber sharing content. I just wanted to thank you for it. Keep on succeeding! 🎉
Thank you so much, we appreciate the kind words! And thank you for taking the time to check out our content, hope you find it useful!
If you print it on the side, it'll be more rigid. Vertical adhesion is always weaker than horizontal on FDM printers.
This may be true, but for the build volume we had available this orientation was needed. The drone has been flown for many hours and is still whole and undamaged showing no signs of layer adhesion issues.
@@goengineer It's more of a concern when you crash
I was thinking the very same thing, X & Y give the best strength but I see he was constrained by the build volume.
would a flexible filament be most suitable?
@@Gravitation3Beatles3 No. Flex stops the flight computer from being able to maintain stability. You want as little flex as possible.
This is what I’m going to 3d print for my brother on Christmas Day.
I enjoyed the Timelapse you made.
Me, wondering how an ultrasonic bath feels 2 the print
"Removing supports is very easy... just use this $10k industrial support removal vat.
How fo I connect the VTX attnae to the board? Youneve listed any female part of it.
I know nothing about drones... what did you use for a controller?
What was the temperature the build chamber was set at when you were printing?
Which filament type did you use for this print? can you create another video on pros vs cons for each filament type pls?
Gret video. As a 3D printing hobbyist I have had thoughts of printing a homemade drone. This looks incredible. Thanks for sharing.
Hey, what would you change if you had to make another one? I’m interested to hear after you guys have flown it
Great question! Right now, the range is good, but it could be better. So, we would probably change the batteries from li-po to li-ion batteries for the energy density. That would enable longer range flights!
Do I have to use ultrasound bath, I don't have a one and I guess most won't
No, in this case that was the method for the specific materials we were using in our print. Whatever best practice you have for cleaning and removing support material is fine.
I like the simple style
This is a good idea for a home security festure
Hi! can you please upload a video showing how to assemble the electronics together? like connecting the motors to the propellers and stuff? please!
this is another level
Can I do this on a Flush printer?
What type of material did you used to print this drone?
Hi there, The print material was ASA black
do you know of a good motor/control/headset for building drones? A kit or? I want to get my son into it, but we don't need the drones as we will priint our own. Thanks in advance.
so what happens when a wind gust blows you into an obstacle, and you snap an arm ? you'll have to wait another day to reprint the whole thing ?
Depending on the type pf breakage there may be other options like glue epoxy or some other mechanical repair. If you find that repair is frequent we can always go back to solidworks and redesign the frame to make the part repairable without printing the whole frame.
for PETG superglue (locktite 401) seems to do the trick. But only if its a single break, not shattered to many little pieces. And obviously, if you collect all the pieces (not always the case if you fly into a tree :))
I would just pre-print an extra set, and have a full spare with me.....
good evening. aewsome job,
A very nice model, good material choice and sound design. That said as others pointed out the Main Body should be printed lying down to save support material, time and have the layers aligned parralel to the ground.
Keep it up !
yes it would save support material how ever the printer bed isnt big enought to print it laying down
@@minonim8749 I just started watching this video and was checking the comments to know how good it really is and I hadn't noticed how small the build plate is so thank you
@@jackgames3009 his print bed in the video is quite large i use a ender 3 and compared to mine his is way larger and wont fit the same, in comparison to yours i wont know but his print bed it quite large than most average printers
@@minonim8749 I have an ender 3 v2 neo so the print bed is quite small compared to other printers
More like “how to build a frame”. The electronics and long distance connection aspect would have more interesting.
So many opinions here on build orientation and challenging the engineer's thought process. Consider that they are showcasing the capabilities of a professional/industrial 3D printer. He threw it in there in an orientation most would be frightened to tackle with their hobby level printer. A day (plus) of printing and the parts came out flawless. No need to design to the printer's capabilities, it'll just roll with it!
flawless? I saw a ton of stringing. I guarentee he had to do a bunch of cleanup on it. I was gonna say he probably should have used an ender3 and just glued it together. would have turned out cleaner.
@@mslindqu It looks like the stringing was the support material, not the model. It would not have an effect on model quality.
@@mslindqu stringing just burns off with a lighter
@@Atheism-And-Normative-Ethics Oh, had no idea. Never printed anything in my life.
@@mslindqu no problem. Me neither. Just researching. About to set up my printer... From what I gather, main thing that would cause problems would be layer offsets, weak layer adhesion if cooling or layer height isn't done right, and low infill percentages leading to structural weakness. The guy in this video has a really good looking print... His machine probably costs well over 1-2k with the dual filament and slick layers (he might just be using a makerspace in his area)
How did you connect your drone to a remote?
The electronics were all part of a kit so it had an appropriate radio set up that can be paired to a remote.
Thanks for the video. Inspired me to get into this hobby. I am making this right now. You are so close to having a massively popular drone building guide. What size are your props? I think mine are too small. One separate video showing how you wired up the flight stack would be golden. I literally have all the parts in your list and am trying to see how your flight stack is configured...sorry, I am a newb with drones but have experience with lots of other RC stuff...I didn't realize how involved this hobby is. Currently training in flight simulators so I don't wreck this on the first flight...
I believe they are 5" tri blade props. For wiring, the best you can do is follow the speedybee manual for the flight stack. As long as you wire similar to that, you should be golden. The most important thing you can do is to power the drone via USB and use the speedy bee app to watch the orientation of the drone. You will want to tilt it foward, sideways, etc and make sure that it shows the same movements in the app to confirm everything is oriented correctly.
Can i use an F405 fc&esc for this build?
I am not entirely certain what you are asking here
Thanks for sharing this fascinating drone project. Nice end result.
What filament was the drone printed with? I can not seem to find mention of filaments used. Also curious what the printed frame weighted before the electronics and camera were added.
Clearly the support structure is a different material. It's interesting that can be easily removed.
He mentions the mass in cubic inches and the slicer showed it too. It translates to about 380g. The filaments are shown on the printers display, ABS and QSR.
I would recommend looking at some more advanced filaments like various carbon fiber infused ones or Aero-PLA if you plan on building something light. I am sure you could cut off a lot of weight using one of those.
What engineering major is very close related to these projects?
I would not say specifically any one, but there are electrical and mechanical components to these builds.
Can I also print the drone propellers
Certainly, the material and surface finish are probably important factors
Any way to slice it down to print on a 230×230 in pla?
You could certainly load these files into CAD and cut them up for a smaller printer. Your results may vary depending on how you cut and join the printed bodies. Additionally PLA is not as strong as the ABS so there may be some design considerations that need to be looked into
where the blades also 3d printed
No the rotor blades in this case came with the motor assembly.
Wait I don't get it you have 2 cameras?
I believe one is for recording the flight footage and the other is for the drone operator to see.
Couldn't the body be made with different parts and screws?
It certainly could, this is just one possible design.
Can you give us some assistance? We bought all of the components listed, and we have power to the components but we cannot connect to the speedy bee app. We are at a loss as to how to communicate with the components to get them to function.
Hi, sorry to hear you are having trouble. Are you able to connect to the speedy bee flight stack via usb C using beta flight configurator? If that works, I would recommend double checking if you have the right flight controller in speedy bee app selected and Bluetooth is enabled. If that is correct, I would try using another phone to try and connect. If those steps don’t work, can you share a picture of your wiring with the USB plugged in? Best of luck and keep us updated so we can help!
@@goengineer drive.google.com/file/d/1di-psXeuXNP3QCO1Y6cud5KOzAnylniY/view?usp=sharing
@@goengineer drive.google.com/file/d/1RXDua0llK0PrReKItobhRrX80KLpM2JK/view?usp=sharing
I'm very new to Drones as a hobby, I mean, I've flown and crashed your typical cheap gift drone, but I'm ready to 3d Print! Would you say this drone can be used to film cinematic video or is it a tad bit too touchy? I have a few projects that would benefit from drone footage and this would be an awesome, cost effective solution to the other expensive names that I have trouble opening my wallet to. Thanks for your amazing creativity btw!
since no one replied, although my knowledge on flight controllers is shallow, im fairly sure you can soften input reaction for smoother control. also, simply put, a standard xiaomi drone still costs less than all of that (and yes you can still attach an action cam to it, the drone will just be a bit heavier and trickier to take off/land)
PS, if u search the names of the parts directly online its cheaper than the links
Thanks 🙏
How would you compare it to store bought drones in the 400/500 price range?
Hello There!
While this drone would have less software features then a store bought drone at comparable price, it is capable of lifting more with a longer flight time as well as having a longer range on the transmitter. By using 3D printing. it is possible to create a design that fits the application that one is trying to do without compromise.
Thanks!
@@goengineer how much does it weigh?
@@TorontoFPV This. How much does it weigh? What are the flight characteristics of a 3d printer drone frame versus carbon fiber? Should send this to Chris Rosser and let him have an examination at it. :)
@xshoudenx it looks like it flies pretty decent! Honestly Chris uses his knowledge as leverage to sell his products.
*Solid Video! Subbed!*
Any other way to download the files by chance? My Outlook will not let me open them. 😬
Why would you 3D print the main body not lying down? Seems like a massive waste of both time and filament.
for strength. and its still printing the same amount either way you print it....
did you not see that if he laid it flat it would be bigger than the plate? you can tell its too big as soon as he shows the cad drawing of it standing up in down. That's the reason he put it in vertical orientation other than horizontal. Hes able to print all his pieces at 1 time! If it did fit flat, that would be the only thing he'd be able to print.
Just as Benny said here, this was done so we could print all of the parts at once
@@goengineer he has never used ultimaker cura or anything of the sort. Just saying shit to say shit like most people. 🤦🏻♂️
Propeller specs?? Pretty important don’t you think
I found them in about 5 seconds with a Google search. Not that hard to figure out. I swear
people literally need spoonfed every little detail or they complain.
its 5" tri blade props
Hey bro, how do I communicate with you, I am taking inspiration from your drone to make my final year project, how do I show you challenges I am facing and hopefully you can help
A reply would be nice
Geez your printer looks expensive. Can I do such prints with 3D printers I can buy from Amazon website ?
The printers used here are industrial grade printers. You could use consumer grade printers to build these models, your support structures maybe different or you might have to cut the model to fit those printers as they tend to be smaller.
Nice
Can i have the files
Links are in the description
im designing a drone with 4×2hp motors and a 192ah battery pack the tosp wwight will be something like 10kg or 20lbs for u americans and dont know what size prop to use im think of making one from steel 2mm sheetmetal with 12 blades
Where do you get your motors from? I'm learning to use an arduino uno board with some small stepper motors for some drone proto-types but I'm interested in the hardware choice you use for larger models.
This is crazy, I wish I had bigger printer,
A solution is to print these in pieces, use a soldering iron to fuse them together, then salt fuse the whole thing into a solid piece.
Amazing 🤩
So yeah, almost no one has a printer like that..,..
Would be interesting to see this printed on a FDM printer, my ASA prints on my printer usualy have to much flex in the frame arms..... not usable for a drone.
That is an fdm printer... I think it's an idex and even those aren't too uncommon, but dual extruders are unnecessary for this application anyway.
Oh no 🙈
Why on earth would you print this standing up? Will be very weak... The parts you want strong (the arms) would be 10x stronger printing it laying down. Also why so freaking much support on the motor arm? You shouldn't even need it there..
With a tiny bit more thought put into the modeling this all could have been printed flat without any support material...
The fact that you have these expensive machines and you don't know how to do this properly is baffling to me...
The end result is neat just not the way you got there.
@Johan Fasth If it did fit it certainly would have been a close fit but regardless of that it could have been designed so it would fit.
It could have easily been split up into 4 arms, the square body and the curved cover in order to fit everything and print it all without any support material or even expensive printers like this one.
The professional engineering truth (not hobby) is you do not want the engineer to spend the time and resources to become a 3D printing expert.
These seriously overpriced machines are made so the design concept is proven quickly instead of forcing you to design for the printer.
I would say the fact he could throw in a print like that with successful testing is a feature.
@@erickvega2631 in real world there is also a concept called "design for manufacturing" :) you don't just design something, you design it so it is cost, time and labour efficient. And I agree with the original comment about arms strength vs layer direction of the print.
@@erickvega2631 Design concept would be proven quicker if he had just used a Prusa printer, much cheaper than his industrial machine and better print quality, no need of a purge tower at all 😂In the real world, we would print this face down, saving both the material and print time by orders of magnitude
@@erickvega2631 the basic principles of designing for 3D printing aren’t hard to grasp, any engineer should be able to so it without much trouble. Even without changing the part at all they could have easily laid it flat on the bed. This doesn’t even seem like a prototype, it seems just like a side project but even then making very basic mistakes like that is ridiculous.
Для 3д печати, плоские и тем более широкие лучи - так себе идея. Широкие лучи, когда они ниже винта - создают сопротивление направленному вниз потоку воздуха.
Для модели 3д лучше сделать более толстые но узкие лучи, например в виде трубы (в которую еще можно спрятать провода), узкие лучи - меньше сопротивления воздуха - больше подъемной силы и скорости - к тому же, лучи будут более прочными с таким же расходом пластика.
You might be good at drones, but you suck at printing.
Print it lying down - save filament, save time, save weight, and still make it stronger.
Jesus Loves You
40-50 minute flight time? I'm highly skeptical...I'd be willing to bet around 18 minutes with that configuration
The Flight time is very dependent on the type of flying your are doing. In this case we have not done any practical testing of the absolute limits, however we have had it in the air for 30+ mins doing slow and gentle cinematic photography. We have also run the battery down in about 20 mins doing higher speed acrobatics. Battery condition also degrades over time so fresh batteries and conservative flying should allow for a very long flight time.
Is this video a psyop?
it is not
All this hassle and 100x more advanced DJI drones are only $800 at Walmart!
Because it’s not nearly $800 to build, that’s a lot of money to most people.
Yea but this is a black op drone. You don’t have to send dji a birth certificate and blood sample a let them know everyone you fly, you can fly it off grid and it’ll fly in the no fly zones when the apocalypse commences.