You finally explained for all of us, the inner workings of how the stoves work. Most videos just show you the parts and how to clean them but don't really explain what is taking place and how it all works. Thank you for posting this video.
Great informative video. Also, and almost more important, great narration!! Many videos I can hardly listen to for all the "Uh's" and "You know's!!" Big thanks for sharing your knowledge so concisely!!
Outstanding video! Fascinating to see the teardown and detailed explanation. Thank you for posting! Love my 424. Nice to learn the theory and history of how it works.
Thanks for the much wanted theory of operation. I have had my 425E for many years with minor issues, but now when I want it for this weekends ski jump tournaments here in Iron Mountain, MI (Cold!). It's being really stubborn. Finally got it to work, kinda, by pulling and cleaning generator. Lots of yellow flame afterwards and then I shut it down for awhile. Heck of a time restarting and ended up filling the manifold with fuel. Cleaned that up and now watching more videos. The pot of chicken chile may just set on the barby this year😏.
3degrees this morning when I went to try out thr torch. First, I brought in the tank from the garage to warm it up for a couple of hours. Then went out and used the torch on the generator. It worked! Took a few minutes for yellow flame to settle down, but when it did, I both burners burning nicely! Went out to do some shopping and experimented starting after leaving every thing in the cold garage. No luck. Couldn't even get the propane torch to lite. Oh well, warm weather will be back here in another 4-5 months, if we're lucky😉. Thanks again!
Great video! Love those cast iron burners. I have a 417B with the cast burner plate you mentioned. It's a great stove. In my experience, the most common issue folks have with lighting Coleman stoves is not opening the main valve enough during the lighting procedure. The wider you open it, the more air and less fuel it will pick up making for a pretty darn clean flame right off the bat with almost zero flare/tall yellow flame. When you try to baby it by not opening the valve sufficiently, the mixture is too rich because you aren't allowing enough air through to atomize the liquid fuel. It seems counter intuitive until you really analyze the process. Play with it and let me know your thoughts.
I have had a early version of this stove, cylindrical gas tank forever. Was my Grandfather's first as a hunting fishing stove. When I was young this was the family camp stove. Now I use a Coleman propane for a Carca.p stove. This stove is used now for backcountry canoe trips .
The most unanswered question, I swapped to a propane one, a person could wonder how the pipe doesn’t explode. Because the line runs through the burner itself?! 🔥
It's made of steel and obviously safe. It runs through the flame on the primary burner because that flame produces the heat necessary to convert the gas from liquid to vapour. The lanterns work on the same principle, with a brass (sometimes steel) generator passing near the mantle(s), which heat it and vapourise the gas.
@@CarlDeanWallace I don't think steel itself is the answer. The older stoves (Model 1, 2, 9, etc.) made in the 20s and 30s used brass generators, but they operated similarly in relying on heat from the primary burner to keep them hot enough to vaporise the fuel. I'm currently working on a 1920 Pretniss Wabers stove with the same sort of brass generator. Generators have been known to split open on very rare occasions, but I've only seen that happen to aluminum generators on Milspec lanterns...and, again, even then it's very rare. Consider the gauge of steel or brass, I just can't see a stove generator splitting open.
Great video . I just got a 424 today I couldn’t bring myself to purchase a Chinese product when there is a product manufactured in the free world. I’m loving it!
I am 72 and love these old stoves. You cannot wear them out if you service it and keep it clean. You cannot buy anything of this quality with only one small piece of plastic on the knob to turn up the flame. My son just gave me my Christmas present which was an old 425 model with the gold tank and fold down legs like the one in your video. I will light it in the morning and cook my breakfast on it. Your video is the best i have seen on you tube.
Hi, I have the same Model 4H but my tank is black? Also I have painted my stove, I color matched the factory paint and applied an automotive grade paint. My cast iron burners I have refinished in black, was silver the factory color? Last question your burner rings appear to be similar to the newer stoves with corrugated rings while mine has two thick rings with standoffs cast into them. I also have the original box with the year 1937 on it, you had mentioned that they were made in 1938 onwards?
It sounds like your 4H is an American version. The 4 and 6 series stoves were introduced earlier (1934) in the US and went through more variations over their production history than the Canadian ones did. The 4 was the economy model, while the 6 was more expensive. The 4s had steel tanks painted black and the 6s had Everdur tanks painted a copper colour. The early 4s, being economy models had cast iron rather than Band-a-Blue burners.
@@jeffstewart4162 Then it's Canadian. The H series stoves were made 1938 to 1942. Our dates are based on shipping records, so it's possible yours was made in late 1937 and shipped later. Like the American models, the 4 had a steel tank and cast iron burners, while the 6 had Band-a-blue burners and Everdur tanks.
@@king.colemanthe box which I have is stamped 37 but I suppose the box could be 37 and it didn’t ship til 38. I love it, works so great after I overhauled the tank
@@Dionisio181 It varies widely depending on how you use the stove. A tank of fuel will last a lot longer if you're using one burner running at low heat than if you've got both burners running on high.
@@king.coleman Ok, i just want to know to calculate how much fuel i have to carry in an out door activity if i am running the stove with the 2 burners on in high.
@@Dionisio181 There's no simple answer to your question. It all depends on the model, tank size, and how you use the stove. Unless all you intend to do is boil pots of water, I doubt that you'll have both burners running consistently at full blast as that will just burn your food.
Yes, that whole stove was a mess when I got it. The case had been crushed and required a good bit of "body work" to straighten it out. Both tank and case had been repainted multiples times in the past.
Hello, just wanted to get your opinion on a Coleman 530 restoration that I'm doing. Everything's been taken apart and basically cleaned. I put some fuel in the tank with some BB's and shook it around for a while and did that a few times and virtually nothing came out of it so it seems pretty clean inside. Is it okay to put maybe announcer to of seafoam into the tank of Coleman white gas to maybe clean it out while burning it? Just wanted your opinion let me know thank you
Seafoam won't hurt anything. Most people who use it add a capful to a full fount of fuel...maybe half that for a 530. That said, I'm not convinced that Seafoam actually does anything in a lantern or stove. I heard the hype and added a couple of teaspoons to a full fount on a 228 that was pulsing badly. It seemed to help, but the pulsing returned as soon as I was burning straight naphtha again. As an experiment, I added some to a lantern I found that had a lot of varnish and residue in the fuel system and after several founts of fuel+Seafoam all the varnish and residue were still present. Again, it shouldn't hurt anything, but I'm doubtful that it will actually fix any problems.
@@lessstuffmorefreedom-livin6886 I don't know that there's any right place. It's just a matter of being in the right place at the right time and having your eyes open. Ask around in the collector community. I was headed to the States a few years ago and before I left, I posted some desirable Canadian items I was willing to trade and was contacted by a guy with a 2E, a 9C, and a SureFire No. 27 he wanted to exchange.
You finally explained for all of us, the inner workings of how the stoves work. Most videos just show you the parts and how to clean them but don't really explain what is taking place and how it all works. Thank you for posting this video.
Great informative video. Also, and almost more important, great narration!! Many videos I can hardly listen to for all the "Uh's" and "You know's!!" Big thanks for sharing your knowledge so concisely!!
Outstanding video! Fascinating to see the teardown and detailed explanation. Thank you for posting! Love my 424. Nice to learn the theory and history of how it works.
Excellent presentation skills!
That is an awesome ColeHawk!
Thanks for the much wanted theory of operation. I have had my 425E for many years with minor issues, but now when I want it for this weekends ski jump tournaments here in Iron Mountain, MI (Cold!). It's being really stubborn. Finally got it to work, kinda, by pulling and cleaning generator. Lots of yellow flame afterwards and then I shut it down for awhile. Heck of a time restarting and ended up filling the manifold with fuel. Cleaned that up and now watching more videos. The pot of chicken chile may just set on the barby this year😏.
If it's really cold you'll probably find it helpful to preheat the generator with a propane torch.
Thank you!
3degrees this morning when I went to try out thr torch. First, I brought in the tank from the garage to warm it up for a couple of hours. Then went out and used the torch on the generator. It worked! Took a few minutes for yellow flame to settle down, but when it did, I both burners burning nicely! Went out to do some shopping and experimented starting after leaving every thing in the cold garage. No luck. Couldn't even get the propane torch to lite. Oh well, warm weather will be back here in another 4-5 months, if we're lucky😉. Thanks again!
Great video! Love those cast iron burners. I have a 417B with the cast burner plate you mentioned. It's a great stove. In my experience, the most common issue folks have with lighting Coleman stoves is not opening the main valve enough during the lighting procedure. The wider you open it, the more air and less fuel it will pick up making for a pretty darn clean flame right off the bat with almost zero flare/tall yellow flame. When you try to baby it by not opening the valve sufficiently, the mixture is too rich because you aren't allowing enough air through to atomize the liquid fuel. It seems counter intuitive until you really analyze the process. Play with it and let me know your thoughts.
I have had a early version of this stove, cylindrical gas tank forever. Was my Grandfather's first as a hunting fishing stove. When I was young this was the family camp stove. Now I use a Coleman propane for a Carca.p stove. This stove is used now for backcountry canoe trips .
The most unanswered question, I swapped to a propane one, a person could wonder how the pipe doesn’t explode. Because the line runs through the burner itself?! 🔥
It's made of steel and obviously safe. It runs through the flame on the primary burner because that flame produces the heat necessary to convert the gas from liquid to vapour. The lanterns work on the same principle, with a brass (sometimes steel) generator passing near the mantle(s), which heat it and vapourise the gas.
@@king.coleman thank you for replying, so the steel is the answer, literally can’t find that anywhere on Google. Steel safe from fire 🔥
@@CarlDeanWallace I don't think steel itself is the answer. The older stoves (Model 1, 2, 9, etc.) made in the 20s and 30s used brass generators, but they operated similarly in relying on heat from the primary burner to keep them hot enough to vaporise the fuel. I'm currently working on a 1920 Pretniss Wabers stove with the same sort of brass generator. Generators have been known to split open on very rare occasions, but I've only seen that happen to aluminum generators on Milspec lanterns...and, again, even then it's very rare. Consider the gauge of steel or brass, I just can't see a stove generator splitting open.
I love the old stoves with the fold down legs that secure the top as well, and the round, gold fuel tanks.
Subscriber #503 here.
Great videos, love the content, im gettin some Egon Spengler vibes, i dig it
Wow!
This is the most informative Coleman camp stove video to date!
Thank you, very helpful! I sub'd!
Brilliant instructions. Thank you.
Nice stoves !! Thanks
Nice video. Thanks man. I just found a 413g in a barn that I'm working on. Your video was very informative. Thanks again.
Great video . I just got a 424 today I couldn’t bring myself to purchase a Chinese product when there is a product manufactured in the free world. I’m loving it!
I am 72 and love these old stoves. You cannot wear them out if you service it and keep it clean. You cannot buy anything of this quality with only one small piece of plastic on the knob to turn up the flame. My son just gave me my Christmas present which was an old 425 model with the gold tank and fold down legs like the one in your video. I will light it in the morning and cook my breakfast on it. Your video is the best i have seen on you tube.
Hi, I have the same Model 4H but my tank is black? Also I have painted my stove, I color matched the factory paint and applied an automotive grade paint. My cast iron burners I have refinished in black, was silver the factory color? Last question your burner rings appear to be similar to the newer stoves with corrugated rings while mine has two thick rings with standoffs cast into them. I also have the original box with the year 1937 on it, you had mentioned that they were made in 1938 onwards?
It sounds like your 4H is an American version. The 4 and 6 series stoves were introduced earlier (1934) in the US and went through more variations over their production history than the Canadian ones did. The 4 was the economy model, while the 6 was more expensive. The 4s had steel tanks painted black and the 6s had Everdur tanks painted a copper colour. The early 4s, being economy models had cast iron rather than Band-a-Blue burners.
@@king.coleman my cast iron burner says made in Canada on it as does the decal on the front
@@jeffstewart4162 Then it's Canadian. The H series stoves were made 1938 to 1942. Our dates are based on shipping records, so it's possible yours was made in late 1937 and shipped later. Like the American models, the 4 had a steel tank and cast iron burners, while the 6 had Band-a-blue burners and Everdur tanks.
@@king.colemanthe box which I have is stamped 37 but I suppose the box could be 37 and it didn’t ship til 38. I love it, works so great after I overhauled the tank
Wow great video!
Well done. Very informative. Thank you.
How much time the burners works after the last 10-15 pumps with a full tank?
For most models 10-15 stroke of the pump isn't even enough for proper operation.
@@king.coleman How mucho time you can run the stove with a full tank and with the number of Stroke that you recommend?
@@Dionisio181 It varies widely depending on how you use the stove. A tank of fuel will last a lot longer if you're using one burner running at low heat than if you've got both burners running on high.
@@king.coleman Ok, i just want to know to calculate how much fuel i have to carry in an out door activity if i am running the stove with the 2 burners on in high.
@@Dionisio181 There's no simple answer to your question. It all depends on the model, tank size, and how you use the stove. Unless all you intend to do is boil pots of water, I doubt that you'll have both burners running consistently at full blast as that will just burn your food.
You are a wealth of Coleman product knowledge, thank you!
Your great I could listen to you all day
Curious as to what was done to get the tank on the left looking so good. Strip and repaint?
Yes, that whole stove was a mess when I got it. The case had been crushed and required a good bit of "body work" to straighten it out. Both tank and case had been repainted multiples times in the past.
Hello, just wanted to get your opinion on a Coleman 530 restoration that I'm doing. Everything's been taken apart and basically cleaned. I put some fuel in the tank with some BB's and shook it around for a while and did that a few times and virtually nothing came out of it so it seems pretty clean inside. Is it okay to put maybe announcer to of seafoam into the tank of Coleman white gas to maybe clean it out while burning it? Just wanted your opinion let me know thank you
Seafoam won't hurt anything. Most people who use it add a capful to a full fount of fuel...maybe half that for a 530. That said, I'm not convinced that Seafoam actually does anything in a lantern or stove. I heard the hype and added a couple of teaspoons to a full fount on a 228 that was pulsing badly. It seemed to help, but the pulsing returned as soon as I was burning straight naphtha again. As an experiment, I added some to a lantern I found that had a lot of varnish and residue in the fuel system and after several founts of fuel+Seafoam all the varnish and residue were still present. Again, it shouldn't hurt anything, but I'm doubtful that it will actually fix any problems.
@@king.coleman okay, I really appreciate it thank you. Any idea where I can get my hands on a Coleman model 2
@@lessstuffmorefreedom-livin6886 Keep your eyes open. They're not easy to find, but they're around.
@@king.coleman where do you recommend the best place to look to get one of those is
@@lessstuffmorefreedom-livin6886 I don't know that there's any right place. It's just a matter of being in the right place at the right time and having your eyes open. Ask around in the collector community. I was headed to the States a few years ago and before I left, I posted some desirable Canadian items I was willing to trade and was contacted by a guy with a 2E, a 9C, and a SureFire No. 27 he wanted to exchange.
Smaller stoves like a MSR cannot handle big groups you need to bring multiple stoves so the old Coleman naptha stove is the answer!!