thank you mate for this video, you made it seem not so intimidating will give it a go! I've got a saloon with a 7AFE myself I like your pickup conversion!
So in the beginning when it was idling you had it set to deduct 25% fuel on the low map. This is before you started to explain the video. The engine was idling fine. Then for the video you set the 25% to 0% and then the car wouldn't idle because too much fuel was entering the engine. So in your case with a 20% deduction in fuel the car would not idle. You needed a 25% deduction to get it to idle properly? How does this work (the S-AFC) for an engine that's cold started vs hot started? Also does the S-AFC make the adjustments on the fly or do you have to cycle the key?
@@DriftDreams242 Thanks, yes on the initial cold start you need more fuel and less air to get an engine to start. What happens if you set the S-AFC so the car starts fine when cold but then you drive it around for 30 minutes and shut it off. Now that the engine is at operating temperature what happens when you start it again while warm? Would say 25% or whatever reduction is necessary to cold start it work for a hot idle?
@@DriftDreams242 I gotcha. Yea this is for an E36 Turbo. I have another standalone ECU with Tuner Studio but the car came with the S-AFC already in it. I'll have to play around with it. Thanks for your videos on how to use it as well as your quick replies.
@@pattygq you need to have an extra bypass air valve . ive made a vacuum box throw all vacuum lines in it . map - fpr , iat and servo booster are connected there . i added a bypass air valve ( like the one that lets more air in the manifold when you turn on the a/c or the lights ) to the vacuum tank . this valve i use with a switch from the inside of the car . when cold start i turn on switch of ''iac'' valve . this lets air in the vacuum tank so vacuum in the tank is decreased so map readings change and gets a bit richer . around 13.5 for about 1-5 minutes depending on the temp outside . then i turn off iac valve , vacuum rises map gets normal readings and afr gets around 15 . this is what ive done to my ITB 4age 16v spark plugs are nice yellowish coloured it even passes emissions test . car idles and runs smooth like it is stock . this is a 4age16v stock ecu . + safc
Hay thanks for the vid I'm currently working on my project built a 111 trueno with a silvertop ,AWD box and I happen to have the super afc with the manual buttons . What I wanted to know did you use bigger injectors as I am planning to as to add boost .
@@DriftDreams242 Could you explain to me how you did your wiring? I tried reading in Forums with no luck. My engine is also cable operated and uses a MAP sensor.. Also thanks for the fast response man!
I'm coming back to this video after trying to get this to work with a bmw 325 that's turbo'd. In your sensor setting, if you're using hot wire, how did you figure out what sensor values to use?
So do I need to adjust fuel trims every time the weather changes on the safc itself? Like if one day it was 70 degrees then the next day it dropped to 40 I would have to add a little more fuel it wouldn’t adjust on its own?
@@DriftDreams242 thank you so much for the response I also have a question whenever I go cruising in any weather I always adjust my air fuel ratios to 14.7 the recommended under boost 11.3 now whenever it gets a little later in the day my afrs while cruising once it hits like 5 pm or later the cruising air fuel ratio jumps from a good 14-15 to 16 sometime even 17 I add more fuel and it doesn’t seem to help out not sure if I should take out some fuel or add at that point either way if I do add more It doesn’t seem to help it still holds at 17
@@DriftDreams242 not sure but I’m only running 15 lbs of boost and it only has wonky afr while cruising if I try and get on the throttle a little then it start to go back to 14.7
@@DriftDreams242 yep we’ll once I open up the throttle it goes back to the usual afrs I have it set to it’s just that cruising ratio I have it between 14-15 it never goes to 16 but whenever it gets late like 5-6pm the car just leans out a little so I add maybe a little fuel like 1-2% and it doesn’t seem to bring it down back to 14 it stays at 16-17
@@DriftDreams242 well as my tuner described it the colder it gets the more fuel car needs since air is denser the hotter the less it’ll need. I live in the mid west Nebraska it’ll be maybe 50 degrees outside and then around 5-6 afternoon it’ll be 41-36 degrees but even if I add 5% more it still doesn’t really change it
@@DriftDreams242 ok I currently have the safc 2 on my starlet with the 4efe ecu I have a ct9 turbo on the 5efe standard engine My issue is I took it to a guy to tune it but when I'm not In boost I get 11s which is perfect in boost but I also get that wen I'm cruising he had the fpr at 60 I turned it down to 40 hence y I get the 11s now so do I go in the LO throttle settings n cut fuel ? I need some help
thank you mate for this video, you made it seem not so intimidating will give it a go! I've got a saloon with a 7AFE myself I like your pickup conversion!
im gonna use the apexi neo on my acura tl, this was very helpful awsome vid man :)
Christmas time nice time for a dirt bike build💯
So in the beginning when it was idling you had it set to deduct 25% fuel on the low map. This is before you started to explain the video. The engine was idling fine. Then for the video you set the 25% to 0% and then the car wouldn't idle because too much fuel was entering the engine. So in your case with a 20% deduction in fuel the car would not idle. You needed a 25% deduction to get it to idle properly?
How does this work (the S-AFC) for an engine that's cold started vs hot started?
Also does the S-AFC make the adjustments on the fly or do you have to cycle the key?
@@DriftDreams242 Thanks, yes on the initial cold start you need more fuel and less air to get an engine to start. What happens if you set the S-AFC so the car starts fine when cold but then you drive it around for 30 minutes and shut it off. Now that the engine is at operating temperature what happens when you start it again while warm? Would say 25% or whatever reduction is necessary to cold start it work for a hot idle?
@@DriftDreams242 I gotcha. Yea this is for an E36 Turbo. I have another standalone ECU with Tuner Studio but the car came with the S-AFC already in it. I'll have to play around with it. Thanks for your videos on how to use it as well as your quick replies.
@@pattygq you need to have an extra bypass air valve .
ive made a vacuum box throw all vacuum lines in it .
map - fpr , iat and servo booster are connected there .
i added a bypass air valve ( like the one that lets more air in the manifold when you turn on the a/c or the lights ) to the vacuum tank .
this valve i use with a switch from the inside of the car .
when cold start i turn on switch of ''iac'' valve .
this lets air in the vacuum tank so vacuum in the tank is decreased so map readings change and gets a bit richer . around 13.5 for about 1-5 minutes depending on the temp outside .
then i turn off iac valve , vacuum rises map gets normal readings and afr gets around 15 .
this is what ive done to my ITB 4age 16v
spark plugs are nice yellowish coloured
it even passes emissions test .
car idles and runs smooth like it is stock .
this is a 4age16v stock ecu . + safc
Hay thanks for the vid I'm currently working on my project built a 111 trueno with a silvertop ,AWD box and I happen to have the super afc with the manual buttons . What I wanted to know did you use bigger injectors as I am planning to as to add boost .
Hey uave you had issues with ecu changing the parameters you set
Interesting body mode.
Hey, im looking to buy one for my Swift, how do u get ur throttle signal? Isn´t a 4AGE a cable operated throttlebody?
@@DriftDreams242 Could you explain to me how you did your wiring? I tried reading in Forums with no luck. My engine is also cable operated and uses a MAP sensor.. Also thanks for the fast response man!
@@DriftDreams242 Ah, i see. then it´s fine lmao
@@JANNIKKICHANNEL is you your car the GTi?
I'm coming back to this video after trying to get this to work with a bmw 325 that's turbo'd. In your sensor setting, if you're using hot wire, how did you figure out what sensor values to use?
@@DriftDreams242 i gotcha. Do you know what your current settings are?
@@DriftDreams242 lol ah I'm late to the party. Thanks for the quick responses though!
@@DriftDreams242 it's all good. My buddy bought a BMW E36 that was professionally tuned in the '90s but he accidentally initialized the s-afc lol.
@@DriftDreams242 yup lol
Super vid
So your saying THAT SAFC ONLY ADJUST THE FUEL RATIO????
So do I need to adjust fuel trims every time the weather changes on the safc itself? Like if one day it was 70 degrees then the next day it dropped to 40 I would have to add a little more fuel it wouldn’t adjust on its own?
@@DriftDreams242 thank you so much for the response I also have a question whenever I go cruising in any weather I always adjust my air fuel ratios to 14.7 the recommended under boost 11.3 now whenever it gets a little later in the day my afrs while cruising once it hits like 5 pm or later the cruising air fuel ratio jumps from a good 14-15 to 16 sometime even 17 I add more fuel and it doesn’t seem to help out not sure if I should take out some fuel or add at that point either way if I do add more It doesn’t seem to help it still holds at 17
@@DriftDreams242 Wally 255 and to my knowledge no aftermarket afrp also injectors are just 550cc not that much bigger
@@DriftDreams242 not sure but I’m only running 15 lbs of boost and it only has wonky afr while cruising if I try and get on the throttle a little then it start to go back to 14.7
@@DriftDreams242 yep we’ll once I open up the throttle it goes back to the usual afrs I have it set to it’s just that cruising ratio I have it between 14-15 it never goes to 16 but whenever it gets late like 5-6pm the car just leans out a little so I add maybe a little fuel like 1-2% and it doesn’t seem to bring it down back to 14 it stays at 16-17
@@DriftDreams242 well as my tuner described it the colder it gets the more fuel car needs since air is denser the hotter the less it’ll need. I live in the mid west Nebraska it’ll be maybe 50 degrees outside and then around 5-6 afternoon it’ll be 41-36 degrees but even if I add 5% more it still doesn’t really change it
What happens when throttle is between 30% to 70%??
it adjusts automatically smoothly. there is no ''gap'' or what so ever
Would this work for a naturally aspirated engine?
@@DriftDreams242 awesome thanks for the response! Did you notice any power increase?
Do u need the standard o2 sensor for the safc to wrk properly.?
@@DriftDreams242 ok I currently have the safc 2 on my starlet with the 4efe ecu I have a ct9 turbo on the 5efe standard engine
My issue is I took it to a guy to tune it but when I'm not In boost I get 11s which is perfect in boost but I also get that wen I'm cruising he had the fpr at 60 I turned it down to 40 hence y I get the 11s now so do I go in the LO throttle settings n cut fuel ? I need some help
@@DriftDreams242 so just edit the LO throttle setting
@@DriftDreams242 alright thanks
@@DriftDreams242 I'm a little nervous but imma risk it
@@DriftDreams242 my type of dude!!! Thanks alot in helping me much appreciated
Easy explanation of a safc is that it tricks your stock ecu into giving more fuel by "hacking" the 02 sensor signal
nice b15 man!
It intercepts ur map signal not the O2. You use the wideband to know the exact ratio that u want.