Thank you for the hard earned tips on the how to ! ........ I buy the non working refrigeration, theyre already insulated, then sub mount the electrical.........
I like the surface mount method so much. It's ideal for DIYers on many levels, and if you don't like the look, just cover it with some stick-on cord keeper tracking.
Your videos are the best. Working with your company not so much. I have been trying to get some estimates from you for a budget to do a project, but I keep getting run around and given excuses from your staff. I have submitted several requests and gotten passed around to several people. Maybe call you directly would be the answer.
With the condensation issues... why don't more folks do foam install on the outside of the container? Can move vapor barrier outside the metal, not have to worry about the plumbing or electrical work around could be completely minimized.
I’m curious about the same thing. Why take up the interior volume with the insulation when you could add to the exterior and then apply fascia treatments to change the exterior to look better? Have seen some insulation blocks in the past for applying to the exterior but can’t remember the name. Very curious if that doesn’t solve the vapor barrier issue.
I would run the wiring along the ceiling where people typically don't look. Paint the conduit and ceiling black. Additional wiring could hide inside interior studs (as opposed to studs along the outer shell). Definitely hide it built-in interior furnishings, like pop-ups on desks and under upper cabinets...
Nice, glad to see tue follow on video to the previous electrical one. I know the co duit on the outside is easier but the wiring inside looks so much cleaner lol. Im really curious about running conduit rheough the stud caveties, that seems like it would look really good but youd need a lot of work to frame it out. Maybe a premade set of cut to length studs and conduit as a kit for 20ft, 40ft etc containers?
I understand the condensation loop in theory, but why not just run the conduit UNDER the box height? Say run the conduit at 30 inches off the floor and put the boxes at 36 inches off floor level. Water does not run uphill, and it would seem any easy method of preventing the problem. Also if there is that much condensation I would look at putting some type of drain point in the system. Keep the fluid from being able to build up to the point it can cause staining to the finished wall, much less electrical issues. Simply add a "T" in the conduit at the lowest point where the bottom of the "T" is an empty conduit allowing water to drain to the outside of the container.
MAYBE, if theres a lot of electrical/plumbing going into the wall, you could switch to 3 5/8" metal studs instead of 2 1/2", you'd sacrifice 2 1/4" interior dimension, BUT you'd have a bit more room for spray foam, and a little more room to keep the "anacondas" away from the container walls. what do you think?
Another idea, if you're using a high-cube container, you could run 2x6 framing in the ceiling, hold them down about 2" from the top of the can and you could have your spray foam on the lid, 4" rockwool in the studs, and then still have 2" of framing to run wiring and plumbing in the ceiling instead of walls. The extra insulation in the lid might help the ceiling condensation as well
Can you explain more about why warm wires would cause condensation? Condensation happens when warm moist air hits something cold. My thinking is that warm moist air inside the container passing through the bx cable with cold metal sheathing could cause condensation regardless of whether there is power going through the lines. In fact, the heating in the lines should reduce the condensation because the sheathing will be warmer. Am I missing something?
Id use hat channel run horizontally it comes in1/2 3/4 7/8 and 1-1/2 spray foam to the surface then use 1/4 sheetrock to keep as much interior width as possible
Yes I worked as an electrician for years hate bx cable either rigid conduit or ent plastic love your ideas keep up good work
Thank you for the hard earned tips on the how to ! ........ I buy the non working refrigeration, theyre already insulated, then sub mount the electrical.........
Thanks for another great and informative video, buddy!!!
I like the surface mount method so much. It's ideal for DIYers on many levels, and if you don't like the look, just cover it with some stick-on cord keeper tracking.
Your videos are the best. Working with your company not so much. I have been trying to get some estimates from you for a budget to do a project, but I keep getting run around and given excuses from your staff. I have submitted several requests and gotten passed around to several people. Maybe call you directly would be the answer.
With the condensation issues... why don't more folks do foam install on the outside of the container? Can move vapor barrier outside the metal, not have to worry about the plumbing or electrical work around could be completely minimized.
I’m curious about the same thing. Why take up the interior volume with the insulation when you could add to the exterior and then apply fascia treatments to change the exterior to look better? Have seen some insulation blocks in the past for applying to the exterior but can’t remember the name. Very curious if that doesn’t solve the vapor barrier issue.
Once you finish doing all this there is no room left inside the container.
I would run the wiring along the ceiling where people typically don't look. Paint the conduit and ceiling black. Additional wiring could hide inside interior studs (as opposed to studs along the outer shell). Definitely hide it built-in interior furnishings, like pop-ups on desks and under upper cabinets...
@@b_uppy how do you make money saving money?
@TheRealWadeW
Lol
Nice, glad to see tue follow on video to the previous electrical one. I know the co duit on the outside is easier but the wiring inside looks so much cleaner lol. Im really curious about running conduit rheough the stud caveties, that seems like it would look really good but youd need a lot of work to frame it out. Maybe a premade set of cut to length studs and conduit as a kit for 20ft, 40ft etc containers?
I understand the condensation loop in theory, but why not just run the conduit UNDER the box height? Say run the conduit at 30 inches off the floor and put the boxes at 36 inches off floor level. Water does not run uphill, and it would seem any easy method of preventing the problem.
Also if there is that much condensation I would look at putting some type of drain point in the system. Keep the fluid from being able to build up to the point it can cause staining to the finished wall, much less electrical issues. Simply add a "T" in the conduit at the lowest point where the bottom of the "T" is an empty conduit allowing water to drain to the outside of the container.
MAYBE, if theres a lot of electrical/plumbing going into the wall, you could switch to 3 5/8" metal studs instead of 2 1/2", you'd sacrifice 2 1/4" interior dimension, BUT you'd have a bit more room for spray foam, and a little more room to keep the "anacondas" away from the container walls. what do you think?
Another idea, if you're using a high-cube container, you could run 2x6 framing in the ceiling, hold them down about 2" from the top of the can and you could have your spray foam on the lid, 4" rockwool in the studs, and then still have 2" of framing to run wiring and plumbing in the ceiling instead of walls. The extra insulation in the lid might help the ceiling condensation as well
I'd love to see a plumbing video, and one about the oven
I think thats the best idea to use maximize the inside the container. V🎉
Why not supply the electrical details to the electrical contractor up front, since container details are so specific?
That's what we're working on. A lot of this is trial and error. Not the electrician's fault..
@@TheContainerGuyTV Surface mount would be best as you mention. But there is a significant market for a less industrial look.
This is a good video to show you need to know what you are working with. It’s a container not stick build.
Can you explain more about why warm wires would cause condensation? Condensation happens when warm moist air hits something cold. My thinking is that warm moist air inside the container passing through the bx cable with cold metal sheathing could cause condensation regardless of whether there is power going through the lines. In fact, the heating in the lines should reduce the condensation because the sheathing will be warmer. Am I missing something?
Id use hat channel run horizontally it comes in1/2 3/4 7/8 and 1-1/2 spray foam to the surface then use 1/4 sheetrock to keep as much interior width as possible
Seems to me pvc conduit and appurtenances would be the best for in wall electrical.
So another idea if using multiple shipping containers together don't mount electrical to exterior walls?🤔
Just do surface mount and cover it with drywall box if you dont like the look.
This..and cord-keeper tracks to cover the conduit.
You never answered me about the one-year supplying that you say If I click the link
Sounds like a scam
Sounds like it would have been easier and cheaper to rip out all the electrical wires and start over.
Easier, cheaper, and better.
Once you finish doing this there's way less room in the container