ALL METAL RC Truck...Almost - M100C Feiyue FY03H - Worth the Upgrades? - TheRcSaylors
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ธ.ค. 2019
- Learn more about this metal rc truck here: bit.ly/2sGqUoC
When we saw this upgraded Feiyue rc truck with all these metal parts, we had to get one to show you guys. It looks so good and impressive right out of the box. Will it hold up? Is it worth the extra $100-$125? Sadly, out of the box our conclusion is no it is not worth it. However, we are going to try to fix the problems with this and get it back on the channel. What do you think about this rc car?
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Learn more about this metal rc truck here: bit.ly/2sGqUoC
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Learn more about this metal rc truck here: bit.ly/2sGqUoC
When we saw this upgraded Feiyue rc truck with all these metal parts, we had to get one to show you guys. It looks so good and impressive right out of the box. Will it hold up? Is it worth the extra $100-$125? Sadly, out of the box our conclusion is no it is not worth it. However, we are going to try to fix the problems with this and get it back on the channel. What do you think about this rc car?
Disclosure: This description box contains affiliate links.
Learn more about this metal rc truck here: bit.ly/2sGqUoC
Should be an awesome rig once you loctite all the screws.
I think I'll stick with the Wltoys!😉
Certainly will need some loctite, i think the wltoys 144001 is the best smaller scale outdoor rc for the money atm, i guess that's what you got too show in the next video ?
Can you please review/unbox the new SCX24 Jeep Wrangler?
I got my dad the brushed version for his anniversary and so far so good. I definitely recommend getting the feiyue fy03.
I bought the upgrade kit for my FY-03, which I will be upgrading for next season. The kit was about $70 CDN, and is a good deal. I hope to upgrade my FY-06, the 6 Wheel version of this with a second kit I will be ordering at some point as well. But you need to adjust, then use the nuts on either end of the various control arms to keep them in place, and yes, a bit of red loc-tite is in order.
BTW, other people have found that Chinese sold RC trucks, you need to check the tightness of the screws on them before taking them out. People have had driveshafts drop off, wheels drop off, etc because screws were loose. The fit and finish of ground vehicles seem to be much worse than flying vehicles from them.
You guys should put a puddle in front of that ramp Abby would never miss lol 😂
Hahaha!! So true! 🤣😂👍⚓😎
Hi I am always so happy to see your videos one of the highlights of my day is watching your channel
That thing is sick !!
Looks awesome!
NICE JOB!! Tightin' it up and looks like it's got some potential!! Thanks Saylors! 💟👍😘
You had me at the thumbnail!! I’m dead
Good to see locals doing good things with the rc world.
Merry Christmas and a happy new year. Love from the uk.
I like it and yes it will fall apart without some blue lock tight.
You two are so fricking funny, I love your shows. To many things to comment about,, but yes it's tow in. LOL.
Thanks for the video 🙂👍 !
Nate: Children's mode, why do they even bother...
*Rolls over*😂 love you guys
Haha Haha! Well, point made! 🤣😂👍⚓😎
I think it would have been better labeled crawling mode instead of charger mode. I really liked it till I saw this video,and now I'm think I can get the Wltoys one or the metal eashine even theres a couple. I want a crawler cause I live in the ozarks in Arkansas we have nothing but rocks lol,but also want a basher and these type vehicles kinda seem to be a hybrid of both. I love speed ,but also want to do some crawling in my own backyard.
Locktite quickly, would love to see more of this one , thanks for braving the cold so we can get our RC fix 👍😍😁
Great video as always guys I have one I've had mine for about a year or so this thing is a blast all metal gears and you can run a 3s battery in it and this thing comes alive hope you guys try it and see how much fun you have once you get it adjusted.
Thanks for letting me know. I'm sticking with the Stock brushless Eat04.
I have an EAT04 too and with the hub extenders on it runs very well, but I broke a wheel doing nothing special but running it on asphalt (tires gripped but the stock wheels are weak) and the screw holding the servo steering arm came out. Try to find replacement parts for this thing! (Hint: ignore Banggood and go straight to Amazon.) Love that it has ambidextrous controls! Good for the 112 USD I paid. Guess I'll have to get a Traxxas.
i would love to see an update on this after you adjust and go through with lock tight i have had my eye on these type of rc but just haven't pulled the trigger and all the purdy blue parts makes it more tempting
Love your channel and watch you guy's all the time! I thought maybe discussing about possible upgrades that can be made? Of course I'm taking about keeping it simple, for example: the motor and mounting system would support an upgrade, esc , e.t.c. or propriety?
You guys are so dedicated! I would rather have an Arrma too for that price! If no more videos have A Merry Christmas🎄
Bellissimo... tutto in metallo...bel video... ciao dall'Italia
Woah Abby, when you said it was cold there, you weren't kidding lol. Glad to see the vid, double points for getting outside:D
If anything, you might want a few degrees of toe "out" to improve handling and steering!
This thing is sick for a mini
Just needs a lot of Blue Loctite! 👍😎⚓
maybe upgrade some parts to metal to prevent toe in? 🤔 very nice video demo thanks guys!
Toe in is what you're seeing happen. A bit of toe out will help with the high speed straight line stability. Camber is the tire lean. As you look at the car head on, negative camber is the top of the tire leaning in, positive is the top leaning out. A bit of negative camber can help with forward bite (tires ability to change vehicle's direction) and stability during turns. I would only loc-tite the jam nuts (if possible) on the toe and camber adjustments.
That key thing is one of the weirdest things I think I've ever seen on a radio.
Also, I think it's a good idea to "nut and bolt" any ready to run RC. I remember when I got my first X-Maxx, the front wheel nuts were snug, not tight and I almost lost one of the nuts.
That's a shame about the loose bolts. I have the EAT-04 that is the same but all plastic and it's done real well other than the cage. It sure looks nice with the Red body and blue suspension.
No wonder you couldn't hit the ramp with the front wheels toeing in on you. Another great, fun video. Nate, do I need to send you a warmer coat? You look like you're freezing!
Yea, lock-tight everything. and super glue the light on.
Definitely a beautiful truck. Hopefully the loctite solves the problem.
You can adjust the wheels with the turn buckles.
Loctite is your friend. As with all metal to metal contact you will need to add some. Rarely does an RC come RTR with loctite. Once that is done and you set your Camber and Toe-in/out, it will be a blast to run. One mod I will advise for stability would be axle wideners on the front only, about 15-18mm each side should be good. You will love this RC.
I love the color scheme my rustler 4 x 4 is all Metal but the chassis and it’s the same color scheme love it
I've read reviews that say the fitting of these metal parts is poor. The locking nuts on those steering struts were very loose. I got some metal ones thrown in when I bought the 12428 but decided to stick with the plastic ones.
For sure. I just received the aluminum upgrade kit for the 979-B i'm going to be modifying, and the first thing that struck me was how heavy it is. Most of it is probably going to get thrown away or stuffed in an obscure corner of my work area. Aluminum doesn't absorb shock like plastic, and will cause the car to break in places it wouldn't if the original parts were used. There's a few parts I'll use, but my finished product will probably be at least 75% original parts not including the electronics.
@@larrydommer9109 plastic is way better on most things than plastic. Plastic f!exes, metal bends...
I'm going to sound dumb but at the beginning when I saw the decorations and the Christmas tree I though you guys put them there LOL
That little thing looks epic guys looks like a crazy little rig a bit pricy 😱 I’m editing a x maxx vid right now great vid guys👌👍BRING THE X MAXX BACK OUT GUYS 💪
Always loctite aluminum. The Chinese aluminum parts are super cheap. Love ya guys...🐾😎🐾
@samson paulette if you want to break off screw heads then yes.
3 seconds in and I can see the toe in
Once you adjust the front tires it should be a fuzz faster
Did y'all have on an RC saylors sticker on the truck? That might be why you didn't hit the ramp a lot! LOL 😂
Hermoso auto y video TOP, LIKE.
Wooooo this bench is cold! Bahahahaha (hey it’s been a long week thanks for the laugh)
Exactly right on the locktight. Needs it on all metal to metal. Which polo's are those nate man?
I think you guys are awesome truly my favorite.. I want to meet you one day and take a lesson to fly those jets.... you fly the with such ease brother...
Great vid too bad about the Loctite. Just got back from RRW in Tenn.
I bought the 12428, did the tire-rod upgrade and had the same problems.
I’m interested in this
Toe-in is when the front of the tire is further in than the rear. The wheel alignment being off is why it wouldn't track straight. One tire will be going straight, then it switches tires so that tire will be going straight, back and forth. 1:1 cars do the same thing.
Camber is when the tire is not straight up and down; positive camber the top of the tire is out further than the bottom. Neutral camber is straight up and down. Negative camber is when the bottom of the tire is out further than the top. I would recommend setting those to about 2 degrees negative camber (the bottom just ever so slightly out.)
I keep looking for those Virhuck V01 to pop up for sale somewhere. I bought two for about $45 each. If I could find them again for that price I would buy at least a couple more. I'm guessing the Virhuck V01 were discontinued because it was an illegal clone of a Vaterra Twin Hammers (which has also been discontinued now.)
Bashing in cold weather is almost guaranteed breakage. About the only somewhat safe winter time RC land vehicle activity is crawling. Especially Chinese made RC's you should always check every nut, bolt, and screw to make sure they are tightened properly, because usually they aren't. Even American made RC's I still go completely through it before I ever take it out for a run.
Really nice looking. I'd like to see it after everything is tightened and adjusted. Also seems like the center of gravity is too high or is it that it kept over steering?
I'll buy it guys!
Awesome review as always !! I really like this one. Did you alert Bangood that the fittings on this Buggy are not tight and falling apart under a load ?? Any feed back from Feiyue as to improvemennts ?
😀😂 very cool .I like the all metal.oh no.it broke😢.it's still awesome.have fun and God bless. Merry Christmas
Good call on stopping to fix the problem can never find the bolts lol 😂
Think somebody's got a screw loose! Oh wait! Alot of screws loose! Lol! That thing was coming apart at the seams! 😂 It was running into trees cause it was steering itself! Awesome little rig with some nice and shiny parts! But not sure about that price! But it is a fast little r.c.! Happy holidays guy's! Keep them videos coming!👍👍😎👽⛄🎄🎅
Very nice info on !That's bad! That metal,Thank you for sharing 🖒 The original version fy03 Feiyue desert eagle. IS BETTER!. IF YOU KEEP( IT), WITH the ,plastic. parts.:). It comes with.. Void x Rc 💯.. sad. Don't put the metal upgrades on.. 4 years back... We still like the original version fy03 Feiyue.. .. .
The Virhuck V01 is a nearly identical buggy; it already comes with metal body panels and metal gears, and can be found for around $70.
Front right caster block/c hub is not screwed on properly.
That's called 'toe-in' and it makes the vehicle quicker and more ready to turn into corners but at the cost of high speed stability making it likely to oversteer as you approach the ramp when you make last second steering inputs. What happens is the angle of the front of your tires becomes pigeon toed in effect. If you ever paid close attention to how peoples movements correlates with their feet then you may have realized that pigeon toed basketball players often defend a lot better than anything else they can do because of the pivoting motion that comes much more naturally to that foot layout.
Camber is the angle in which the tops of the tires are oriented. Negative camber is the most common by far and that basically brings the tops of the tires closer together. Makes the vehicle stance look more aggressive
Will you be doing an update video?
Thats too bad, it looks awesome!
There is a new all metal r/c buggy out at Bangood Called XLF F17 1/14.
I had a wl toys a979b that kept toeing in when I ran it its those adjustable steering rods coming lose.
Hi. I very nearly bought this version a few days ago because it's absolutely gorgeous, and there's no denying it's a "Bling Queen". But I was a bit concerned about the lack of impact absorption with all the metal parts. So I opted for the "standard" brushed red version instead, and also ordered the metal oil dampers and the front and rear led light kits. Yours has got the worst case of ingrowing beadlocks I've ever seen 😄 Great video my friends 😊👍
From the looks of it, you made a good choice. I will be on the look out for it on your channel.
I saw it was not screwed on properly at the start of the video when you were shooting it on the bench
Something was wrong with the front end from the start, you can see that on the bench. A lot of RTR manuals have the specs listed for steering geometry setup.
It's also important to note that a rock racer isn't going to bash like a Stampede.
It looks like Christmas!
Tighten everything up correctly and try 'er again! :D Toe-in is horizontal axis (think 'pidgeon toe', which is exactly what you DID think). Camber is vertical axis, think baja buggy style. Now try to figure out negative and positive for both...I never can.
Wow that's very nice 12th scale buggy.
Now that I've said that I have the wltoys 12428 of course. The one you all had on the show two years ago.
I've put on all the upgrades my cost was around $70 plus the $70 I bough the buggy with a total of about $140. But it was a challenge to look for all of this parts but I'ed found them all in one place. Very good price I thought.
In warm weather you know "No Problem" but in this cold snowy wet nasty unforgiving weather were in at this time you know not to crash in to trees flip over on the road an so on. I like this type of RC buggy an them wltoys most are winners.
Doing a great job. Thanks
I like it
hay can ya all talk about bsc for them RC that over heat or glitch
Buy it lock tight everything!!! Lol I think its kool. The camber is out so bad its messing up the toe.
Hey why don't you guys answer me about doing a review on the dragonfly kk13 I love the fact you are upfront and honest so would love to see your opinion on that long rang drone I know your busy but could u please try and get one they are under 250 dollars?????
Google Caster, camber and toe. It'll explain everything about wheel alignment. It could be that everything is shipped loose so you can adjust it to your liking?
Plastic is more resilient. Metal looks good.
You need to test it's speed with the GPS also plastic gets britttel in the cold and you could just the camber and caster of what's attached to the front wheels just turn it to change the angle of your tires
Wise move not driving it when you saw the wheels pointing inwards. I still reckon I heard a rubbing noise when you were driving, and for the price point I would of least expected a brushless motor. The xmas tree looked great thou
Is rather buy a slash or a brushed arrma
Toe is the distance of the front of the tire, Camber is the top of the tire
You guys just didn’t use Loctite on it before using it for the first time. Please tighten everything and let us know what you think then. I’m really interested in a comparison between the plastic and metal versions in terms of performance. Love your videos, thanks!
Just looked on Banggood and they have all the aluminum part's in a kit for a little over 50 doll hairs and a truck that looks like this one all plastic for 105 so might be a better deal if you have to take this one a part to lock Tite anyway.
Exactly what we did to my son's buggy......had to change the links to get the wheels straight....used some m3 size threaded rod
Easiest way to remember toe and camber is to think "point your toes in towards eachother." That is toe-in.
Camber is positive or negative degrees on the vertical axis. Toe is positive and negative degrees on the horizontal axis.
This does help actually. I just never put an easy way to remember these. Thanks
@@Gmcworrior1
Glad I could help! I always mixed up negative and positive toe/camber for the longest time until I made that connection haha.
@@semifast2
Agreed. I would start with a little negative camber and neutral tow. Once the front end doesnt wash out, mess with toe. Toe is definitely a little tricky, but some slight toe out with a soft suspension should work well.
I got mine in a couple of days ago the servo was not working right and all the shocks had leaked all over the sticker sheet. So they will not hold oil and I didn't get all those other parts with mine I got 2 pinion gears and a couple Allen tools with a wheel tool had a lot of screws lose and one that was stripped
I belive I found it for a lower price, though that may have been a special offer
Edit: thx for the review!! 👍
How's your mustash doing Nate? LOL 😂
Its definitely getting a mind of it's own! Still, some sixth graders can grow a better mustache than me 🤣😂👍⚓😎
@@TheRcSaylors I'm not here to judge your mustash! LOL 😂 but y'all are always good judges for rcs , thanks for your honest opinion!
I have to say i thinks its priced right. Just considering all thr metal on it. But also agree its not ready out of box. Like you said definitely needs lock tight. But i mean other then that not to bad really.. i didnt think. Oh alingment is definitely needed lol thar was pretty funny. But priced fair enough i mean just to do the front end on my senton blx 3s upgrade to metal is pretty close to $300.00 if not more. Great vidoe as always. I kinda like that thing. Just alittle tinkering Merry Christmas ro all.
I put metal links in my WLToys 12428 for cheap. Looks like the same parts. There are lock nuts to keep everything tight. Just need to tighten them up. You can adjust the tow in. That said, I liked the plastic parts better. The plastic absorbed impacts better.
All the metal parts are about $60 on Banggood.
Your front wheel alignment was well off, camber caster and toe
You demonstrate a perfect way to remember toe in in your thumbnail. Your toes are pointed in. Camber is the top of the tires leaning in - or out + at the top.
You are better off with a tiny bit of toe in. When you start moving the rolling resistance of the tires push the tires back depending on how much slack there it’s in the steering.
If the tires are toed in or out it has more of a tendency to steer with the throttle. Depending on the rotation of the driveshaft it tends to lift one front tire so it has less traction. If you let off the throttle it’s pushes that tire into the ground and has it has more traction. So it’s going to pull one direction on the throttle and the opposite direction off the throttle. It’s the same thing if it’s toed in too far. In both cases it makes it hard to hit a ramp!! 😉
Metal is just good in a few spots.. to have metal arms for example is asking for disaster if you bash
Same for the rear suspention levers/arms plastic flexes metal does not
Where can you purchase this RC car?
Is the wltoys 144001!!!? Im exicted
Could you try a rc heli?
The wheels didn't start off perfect lol. That's the first thing I noticed when it was on the table (just needs the links adjusted properly). And any metal on metal needs loctite right out of the box.
Hi nate the 12428 is a lot cheaper than that to upgrade cos ive done mine its about 60$ us wat the problem is with yrs is the nuts need tightening down to lock the turnbuckles in place but 1 side is right hand thread and the other is a left hand thread and they are difficult to setup right especially the steering ones they are a pig to do coz it they aint right then when you press the front suspention down the wheels will turn if its not right have fun with that one lol
The turn buckle on that front right tire is way off u need to adjust that just letting ya know gotta get a camber gauge an toe in gauge but never seen a 1/18 toe in gauge
This is where it’s at! RC ground and water vehicles. New regs WILL shut down the hobby aspect of RC aircraft real soon. I’m a licensed pilot and I to will have to follow these new regs coming. The hobbyist though will be pushed out by these new regs and is exactly what the regs where designed to do.
My 12428 was $80 and the full metal upgrade was $60 off ebay. Loctite the linkage and screws and you'll be good.
The front tires are toe in - think of a person that is pidgin toed. Their toes point in
Toe in is were tires point toward each other, toe out is the opposite they point away from each other. Camber is tire top to bottom in and out .
Just checking if you had any success with this car after you worked on it?
We had a really good friend watch this video of ours when we released it and he wanted this car pretty bad so we sold it to him really cheap. He still has it and loves it 👍😁😎⚓
Its pigeon toed in the front now. Lots of blue loctite to hold all the screws into the metal. Look good but its too expensive for what it is.
Not bad for 200 bucks pretty quick too