Both my field terminals had an identical reading 010.6 on my multimeter with the key on test. Does that mean the alternator is a dud? Also on the factory ammeter when I start it is jumps just over 3/4s the way to C. I believe the needle should stay at neat centered after startup?
Not sure why you're getting the same reading on both field terminals... is the voltage regulator good? Also if the battery is slightly low then the Ammeter needle will shoot up to charge to show the battery is getting a charge from the alternator. It won't stay directly centre after start up as you've used battery power to start the car. Possibly voltage regulator stuck on charge?? Hope it helps ......SGG
I just touch a wrench to the back of the alternator, if it’s magnetized it’s charging. On older cars it’s easy lots of space, newer cars can be difficult.
i’ve replaced my VR and alternator and she reads in the D still. what can i test with a multimeter to find out what’s the problem? i charged the battery and will try again today
Bench test the Alternator (I have a "How To" video on that) to make sure the replacement Alternator is working good. I'd next check all the wiring and connections. Make sure none of the wiring has melted, especially coming from the Fusible Link. Definitely check the connections at the back of the dash on the Ammeter, they are prone to melting the back of the gauge if it's old! Good luck 👍🏻
@@hindflight yeah I know.... they weren't the best systems back in the day. All that power going through the ammeter before being distributed elsewhere.... I mean wow! Same as the head light switch, the power goes through the switch before reaching the bulbs... unreal!
hello so its normal at idle to have 13,5 v and when reving it goes to 14,3 ......i am asking because at idle my radio wont work but when i rev it to 1500rpm the radio works ...is that normal ............i swapped my alternator and it did the same thing ..........so i guess its not my voltage regulator what do you think
Hi j g, yes roughly 13.5v is normal at idle, and 14.3 whilst revving. This will increase though if you have lights / heater blower etc. on as the battery draw is higher so the alternator will be putting back more volts to compensate for the draw. I'd say there's something not quite right with your radio 😳 Hope it helps 👍🏻 SGG
@@jimgee2676 yes that'll be normal as there's draw on the battery from the lights being on. The volts probably won't rise much until you rev above 1500, then you'll see the volts go up 👍🏻 If you've got 14.3 at 1200rpm then there's nothing wrong with your voltage regulator 👍🏻
Its nice to see how other people check and fix things thanks
Can you show the alternator? I have 67 imperial only one wire from regulator, alternator has 2 fields, please help
Please check my other video "Bench Test An Alternator"
Both my field terminals had an identical reading 010.6 on my multimeter with the key on test. Does that mean the alternator is a dud? Also on the factory ammeter when I start it is jumps just over 3/4s the way to C. I believe the needle should stay at neat centered after startup?
Not sure why you're getting the same reading on both field terminals... is the voltage regulator good? Also if the battery is slightly low then the Ammeter needle will shoot up to charge to show the battery is getting a charge from the alternator. It won't stay directly centre after start up as you've used battery power to start the car. Possibly voltage regulator stuck on charge?? Hope it helps ......SGG
Good job nailing down the culprit. Cheers from Canada.
Thanks buddy 👍🏻
Thank you
What if I am not getting any power at the field terminal when the key is in the on position?
This helped a lot. Thanks!
You're welcome, glad it helped 👍
I just touch a wrench to the back of the alternator, if it’s magnetized it’s charging. On older cars it’s easy lots of space, newer cars can be difficult.
Great video - does this work on a mechanical voltage regulator? If so, jump wire where to where? Thank you! Great content.
I believe the test should be the same Mario. Thankyou for the kind words 👍🏻 Please subscribe - it's free!! 😁😁😁👍🏻
what if when testing the nut to the fusible link you do not get the same
voltage as at the battery
I think if the fusible link is original to the car I'd be inclined to change it out just to be safe 😃👍🏻
i’ve replaced my VR and alternator and she reads in the D still. what can i test with a multimeter to find out what’s the problem? i charged the battery and will try again today
Bench test the Alternator (I have a "How To" video on that) to make sure the replacement Alternator is working good. I'd next check all the wiring and connections. Make sure none of the wiring has melted, especially coming from the Fusible Link. Definitely check the connections at the back of the dash on the Ammeter, they are prone to melting the back of the gauge if it's old! Good luck 👍🏻
@@SortedGeorgeGarage Good video! The wiring in that bulkhead in the firewall can be a culprit too! Pesky Mopar charging systems!
@@hindflight yeah I know.... they weren't the best systems back in the day. All that power going through the ammeter before being distributed elsewhere.... I mean wow! Same as the head light switch, the power goes through the switch before reaching the bulbs... unreal!
hello so its normal at idle to have 13,5 v and when reving it goes to 14,3 ......i am asking because at idle my radio wont work but when i rev it to 1500rpm the radio works ...is that normal ............i swapped my alternator and it did the same thing ..........so i guess its not my voltage regulator what do you think
Hi j g, yes roughly 13.5v is normal at idle, and 14.3 whilst revving. This will increase though if you have lights / heater blower etc. on as the battery draw is higher so the alternator will be putting back more volts to compensate for the draw. I'd say there's something not quite right with your radio 😳 Hope it helps 👍🏻
SGG
@@SortedGeorgeGarage thank you
I was gonna replace my voltage regulator but since you said its normal i will leave it as is
when engine is at 1200 rpm it reads 14.3 and when i put my lights on it drops to 13.7 even at 1200 rpm is that normal ?
@@jimgee2676 yes that'll be normal as there's draw on the battery from the lights being on. The volts probably won't rise much until you rev above 1500, then you'll see the volts go up 👍🏻 If you've got 14.3 at 1200rpm then there's nothing wrong with your voltage regulator 👍🏻
That's the loosest thermal drive fan I've ever seen, it's doing its impersonation of a roulette wheel.
🤣🤣🤣
Jumper wire from where to where to full charge
From the field terminal that had the lowest reading - to the negative of the battery...... as mentioned in the video at 3.05 👍🏻😎