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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 พ.ค. 2020
- This video was created for the moderately experienced person, or the beginner to tuning classic Mopar electronic distributors and ignition.
I made a couple of mis speaks in the video.
One is where I said the part number for the timing limit plate from 4secondsflat,com and that is part J685S Timing limit plate.
This limit plate is for the small block electronic distributor.
Another is where I said to turn the whole distributor when talking about the rotor position.
Once the distributor is reassembled and going back in the motor, just turn the distributor shaft so the rotor points where it did before the distributor was removed.
Then drop it in the motor while lining up the marks on the distributor housing and engine block.
The engine will will be back within a degree or two, but always check your timing after changing anything about the ignition system just to be safe.
I also said we were going to assemble this distributor.
I'm learning though.
![THE TOYS x NONT TANONT - ดอกไม้ที่รอฝน (spring) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/pPa1d5cC8M4/mqdefault.jpg)
Just like my Daddy taught me 50 years ago. When as broke as we were and no dollars, we adjusted to smallest air gap possible by eyeball and not hitting reluctor. Pickups went bad and no spark. Replace pickup, adjust and ran great. You gave excellent instructions and tips.
Im in the junk yard stuck on this dodge found your video my volume is up but i cant hsrdly hear s word your saying
So yes sir a puc is going to be worth a thousand words i cant hear thanks for video:)
The one thing you left out that most people don't know about is that the vacuum advance adjustable.
Find a small allen wrench one that fits inside of the vacuum orifice and you'll find that you can loosen or tighten it which will control the diaphragm spring inside the vacuum advance unit. One thing in your explanation about how the vacuum advance works may have misled some folks, the vacuum advance doesn't rely upon RPM it relies upon a vacuum signal, so you see if you have a car that cruises at 2500 RPM another one that cruises at 3500 RPM in both cases the vacuum advance will be fully engaged, the vacuum advance goes away at wide open throttle when there is zero vacuum.
Thank you so much for explaining. This helped me a lot! This knowlodge is getting rare and thanks to you it doesn't get lost.
@13:45. Great point! Thanks
Thank you so much. I've got the FBO plate and i was trying to picture how the reluctor was keyed to the shaft and now I know and I'm ready to install that plate with confidence!!
Thank you for the suggestion for the part, I just finished building my 71 duster and I was just about to have a friend weld those slots. Awesome video👍🏻
Well done for your first and appreciate the effort to educate us about things like this! Keep it up!
Greg, thanks for the look inside Mopar's electronic distributor. On my current ride, an '85 Ramcharger, a few months after I first got her, she was runnin' rough, so, 'tune up time.' I popped the cap off the distributor and it was really rusty, crusty inside. Those daggon vents in the caps. I dropped in a Proform distributor, new Blue Streak cap and rotor, and I'm back in business. Ever since those vents were first installed on the caps, I've been sealing them with silicone. I pull the vent cap off, and from the inside, I squeeze the vent full of silicone; then I fill the cap, and with my thumb on the inside vent hole, I push the cap back on the vent, compressing the silicone, providing a good seal. I've been doing that ever since those daggon vents were part of the cap, now I have proof that they are a problem. Anyways, thought I would share that with you, your distributor looked like it had a little surface rust. Thanks Rusty, add watching, liker sub.
That distributor and cap pull outs.
Nice way of sealing them.
I run non vented caps.
Had a heck of a time finding a red one. :-)
Good job! We have got to pass along our knowledge to the new guys and keep our hobby going.
Thanks for posting this. My Charger lost all spark today and I was able to replace the spark pickup and get it running again.
Thanks for the refresher you did a great job on the video and I did learn something new about that magic plate which I never knew existed. I will have to be checking into that. I come across your expertise in the A body forums (looking at the A500 swap) and see you are a very knowledgable person on Mopars. Saw your handle which showed your TH-cam site and here I am. Have been through most of your vids and subbed. Thanks and keep up the great work.
Thank you, I appreciate it.
Great video. Thank you for this. I had ordered some Mr Gasket springs and wanted to install them. This video was a great step-by-step!
Very good how to video! Thanks you, you explained it very well. I’ve I’ve grown with everything computerized. And it’s hard to learn some of these old school cool things some times. I’ve played with my old truck trying to get a little more out of it. But it’s hard if you don’t know the tricks!
Good stuff man! I actually do have the .008" brass feeler gauge but that dollar bill trick has saved my butt in the past... Just like using a matchbook cover to set breaker points in a pinch! 👍👍
Thank you Tony.
We have one totally modified Mopar, and one 99% stock.
You have probably seen them on this channel.
Subscribing to yours.
Thanks for showing the trick on how to adjust the reluctor with the dollar bill that’s cool, spend big bucks trying to find a brass feeler, is crazy .great job.
Thanks. Got me through my first teardown and inspection
Excelente video, muchas gracias!!! Era justo la información que necesitaba!!
Oh man this helps a lot. Couldn't figure out how to get the pick up coil out of a 400ci in a Dodge b300. glad I didn't just start prying to hard.
Love the video for learning more about this!
Thank you, Greg. Subscribed for future videos. Looking forward to any that are as informative as this one. Well done.
Thanks for checking it out. We are currently setting up to do some burnout video's as well, so stay tuned.
Looking forward to watching anything you care to take the time to share. I subscribed to your channel. You explain videos very well. You don’t waste a lot of time with meaningless talk. You get right to the point. I like that.
Excellent video Greg. It explained exactly what i needed to know. Thanks
Glad it helped, thank you.
Using the dollar bill is a good idea. The gap should be .008 but it needs to be set at full vacuum of the vacuum advance because when vacuum is applied by the motor it brings the pickup closer to the relucter.
Thanks that helped me out a lot not a Mopar person but you explained a lot and in great detail
Good video !!
All the best to you and yours Sir.
Thank you! Excellent explanation.
Thanks for the instruction on dismantling the distributor. I think my pick up coil is bad. Now I can fix it.
I’m glad the video helped.
Thank you.
Very good video. Thank you sir. Best wishes!
Thank you this helps I will look into this
Great video man thanks 😊
Very good trick for the gap. Thank you.
Excelente Maestro 👍
Awesome, Sir, Thank you so much for sharing.
Thank you.
I’ll be doing a video on my entire overdrive installation soon.
Part numbers and all.
Well done.
Thank you, sir.
Very helpful. Thanks
Gracias por el video don
It's very helpfull to me l have a Jeep cherokee 96 and a Dodge ram pickup 83 both got a dist like that
Glad it helps, as this is what it’s all about.
Wow what a great video. Very detailed. Now watch me screw mine rite up
Great video, cheers!
Thank you
Thanks Greg! Still trying to wrap my head around the whole timing thing lol. I've been contemplating lately about swapping over to HEI
Hi Steve.
I still love my HEI and have not had a single problem with it.
@@mopars4us Good to hear. Matt and Hops have been helping me nail down an ecu/timing issue. Frustrating lol
Yea, been watching that.
Hope it works out well.
I loved that distributer set up. MOPAR or no car
I like the video, I would have like to hear you alot louder as your voice is low. Thanks for your teaching.
thank you . I run a 4 pin hei on my mopar and just swapped 1 spring on distributor. I also have a FBO plate to install. also looking for more video
Hey thanks a lot...Im about to change the pick up (except mine is a dual pick up) on an '87 360 for the first time... makes me kinda nervous but this video sure helped calm down...lol... thanks again
Hi, thanks for checking out my videos.
You have what’s known as a lean burn distributor.
These were smog era distributors and can be worked with if it has to be kept for some reason.
Some dump all the lean burn equipment and go with a single pickup type and discard all the associated electrical, vacuum and air cleaner stuff for better performance.
This also cleans up the engine compartment.
@@mopars4us What? You mean my old beater 87 Ramcharger had the lean burn crap on it? I did not know that. I've already ordered the single pick up because I ordered it late at night not actually knowing what I had... just assumed it was the single. So I can unplug both connectors, pull the dual pickup, replace with a single, plug in one connector and tuck he other larger flat connector away somewhere?
@@mopars4us ... or do I have to change the whole distributor to go with the single pick up? If that's the case I may as well change over to a HEI system.
The dual pickup distributor can be used if needed, but it would be very important to use the correct pickup and not the one meant for the lean burn system.
The lean burn pickup fires the coil just a bit later and that would throw the rotor phasing off.
The engine would run really bad.
One of the other options would be to get a single pickup distributor, or as you mentioned an HEI.
@@mopars4us so pardon me but I want to make very sure of this. Can I remove the dual pick up from my existing distributor and install a single pick up in that same distributor... and just leave the extra bigger connector plug hang?
Good job.
Great video, I'm having issues starting my 360 engine when it's warm. Is it possible the pickup coil magnet (ignition module) is playing up? I like the dollar bill folded in half to reset the gap. Regards Shaun and Diana
Hi i want to ask because my new spark iis going out of function i don't know if it's the fold of the pulse coil because my sparks going out of function,i have change the ignition coils and that was not the problem
i this a CDI problem or pulse coils
Should a magnetic pickup be able to move and tap the reluctor with a little nudge. Or could that be why i dont have spark maybe my pickup is to banged up to sence tge reluctor
What kit do you recommend to delete leanburn on a1978 Chrysler with 400 engine?
Hi, Greg,
Thanks for the vid. I found out why I had an occasional tick at idle. I measured the gap w my brass feeler .008" and half were in spec, the rest at .010.
I tried to set the closest to .008. My technique not so good. Starting the engine, i heard loud ticking!! Popped the cap and noticed the center shaft has play. I only have a few thousand miles on this Mopar model - new when I bought it. I went and reset the closest to .010" and ticking all gone. If you read this, can u tell me if the shaft should be moving?? It's about .004" play.
Thank you
Nice job!
Thank you.
I appreciate the feedback.
@@mopars4us I have a 1970 dodge dart that has been giving me some trouble and now I am thinking that removing the big spring is the trick. It's one that Mr. Norm signed.
Hay John I have a 318 mag and I can't get any fire from the distributer I have replased rotor cap and caol what is it
Amazing job explaining this!!!!!!!! Thank you
How do you remove the rotor?
Thanks 👍
Thanks for this!! Just picked up 1985 d150 with slant six, classic to me and all new.
Question Can the final adjustments be checked with distributor in the truck?
She has a miss on idle and feels under powered. Going to check valves later too
Thanks again!!
Thank you.
If you can reach it ok in the truck then fine.
If you mark the distr housing where the rotor is pointing and the base to block, you can pull it out and check it.
Then you can just drop it back in right where it was.
Just don’t turn the motor over at all while it’s out.
Could you make another video that better explains the spring installation and differences for boat vs car applications ?
Thanks i throught i was going to have to drive that roll pin out to remove the star wheel
Not all vacuum advanced cans are the same, some are adjustable, some are preset and have stoppers on the arm of it and some are Electronicly controlled with one wire.
The pickup coil is riveted to the chassis there. How do you replace the pickup coil in this sort of distributor? Mine is to a 74 duster, but looks identical to this one. Thanks.
On the underside of the plate the pickup coil is mounted on there is a triangle shaped clip.
I have a very strange issue that you could help me with. The ING. That I have is the same that you are showing. I found the choke wire was splice in with the ingredients box, when the choke wire is disconnected from the choke the engine stalls, hook the wire back to the choke engine runs, connect choke wire to positive the engine runs....what is going on ?...
Sounds like your ignition box is not grounded to the body and it’s getting it’s ground through the choke.
Try cleaning the ignition box mounting points.
If that doesn’t fix it you might ask this question on the Mopar forum at www.forabodiesonly.com
Ty!
I was told that vacuum advance has an adjuster screw in it to control how much it advances. I think it's a small allenhead that you put into the vacuum port to adjust it in or out. Maybe it's not in the old distributors vacuum advance but I think if you get a new one from like Summit Racing they are adjustable so you wouldn't have to buy the plate. Let me know what you find if your instead. ?
Thanks, that’s sort of true but not quite accurate.
The advance pods with the hex end of the canister are adjustable with a 3/32 allen.
The amount of advance is not adjustable.
That adjustment changes (when) the advance comes in, not how much advance comes in.
The allen just changes the spring pressure inside the canister.
The amount of vacuum advance can be modified by limiting the arm travel that attaches to the base plate of the advance mechanism.
The advance limit plate limits mechanical total advance and has nothing to do with vaccum advance.
Bosch used to have a kit in the 80s
So you could convert your bosch points dizzy to electronic
Thanks for a excellent video.
I have a question. My Dodge Monaco 500 383cui has started to do a tick-tock noise from the distributor. Removed the vaccum but it didnt change. Do you have any. idea
It’s possible that the rotor is touching a contact point inside the cap, or an advance spring broke allowing the weights to bounce.
Make sure your timing isn’t jumping around when you hear the noise or disassemble the distributor and inspect for damage.
@@mopars4us
Took the distributor apart and noticed that one spring was missing.
Installed new ones but the sound remains.
The distributor was in good shape.
Can it be the timing chain or the bushing for the pin to the oilpump?
Forgot to ask, can I remove the pickup coil without removing the advance plate? Thanks
The plate has to be removed to release the clip holding the pickup to the advance plate.
got it, think I will replace the vacuum advance while I am at it. Great video
@@mopars4us
My reluctor was very reluctant coming
Manyetik okuyucu boşluğu kaç mm olmalıdır...
.008 * 25.4
Thank you! Any spots that need lubrication on these distributors?
Sorry I didn’t see this question sooner.
The only places that need lube on a disassembled, cleaned and reassembled units is the upper and lower shaft bushings, where the advance assembly meets the case and the three pads that the advance sits on the plate below it.
White or lithium grease is best.
Drop some light oil in the cavity under the rotor. There is usually a felt pad covering it. On many old distributors there was an oiling spigot near the bottom of the housing with a little flip type lid.
excellent video,ok so how do I remove the clip please??
Press down the center of it a little and slide the clip toward and over the little dimple that keeps it from just sliding off.
@@mopars4us Ok sounds like a plan,what tool are you using sir?
That was just two flat blade screwdrivers and a test light for a pointer.
@@mopars4us Thanks for sharing I shall attempt this for my 8th time wish me luck
Clip is the hardest part- haha. I kinda wrestle it out with a pair of long nose pliers and reinstall it with 2 small screwdrivers. It's not so fragile as to worry about ruining. Be careful not to lose.
GM electronic distributors are similar but terribel staff the pick up coils cant by variabel,the 4pin gm ignition module uses the mc 3334 ic chip who isnt variabel ,the e core ignition coil in my case is over complicated. The thing is that staff does not work on lowr temperatures like winter time ,they need relay to bypass some voltage ,the s/r type starter selenoid works only on points ignition ,the static created from other devices confuse those circuets so they miss fire on the original hei circuet by my its missing the zener clamping diode. Generali I need retarding mechanism for my ignition system so Im reali anoyed cant finde any usefull information how those things are magneticali or electricali phase shifted not even ic chip experts culd give my good enough answer
Go go ratchet fingers !
Great info, sound too low.
I can't here you speak up