Love Hope hubs, the problems you mention are down to lack of routine maintenance. They are so easy to pull apart and check for wear & tear, so no excuses really. Seems that some people wait until it breaks rather than maintaining it.
4:09 Here are some of my hacks on Pro4: I put grease in the groove in the freehub to seal it even more. light coat of grease on everything. But on one of the hubs the pawls did rust some on the side. But this would still not stop water ingress completely, but helped.
I like it. I have a set of 2 Evo that I've had come off an old QR standard mtb. Converted for a boost spaced bikepacking mtb. And now standard non-boost on my gravel bike. Do all the maintenance on them myself. Definitely a bike component I've gotten my money's worth with. I know other companies have that cross compatibility now too. But it was Hope's design that got me over the mental inertia of pulling apart my own hubs. I'll always be a fan.
i have the RS4 center lock 20Five wheelset since june 2019. i just upgraded the bearings to hybrid ceramic changed them myself there was nothing wrong in anyway with hope bearings seals axel all was mint saved the bearings i re packed put away. and that's in London UK weather 8 month's of winter and rain and and be lucky if you got 4 months of summer roads canal paths going up and down curbs bumps hols etc etc daily and the wheels are 100% round no shape has been lost at all. Bontrager the originals wheels set i had was useless no strength and much more heavy , since i changed bearings the bike is a rocket.
DT for me. I’ve had both Hopes and 240s for ages, the DTs have been faultless whereas I had issues with both Hope rear hubs. The Pro2 ss developed a mushroomed axle, while the Pro 4 had a wobble right out of the box. Other than that the DTs are considerably lighter and never skip, unlike any pawl hub. I ran a King for a while as well, work of art but it needed too much service and I had to readjust the bearing preload all the time.
I wish I could run anything else, but I've still got 135mm dropouts on my mtb since I refuse to give up 26" wheels. Nobody else really makes premium hubs at that size.
Had my rear pro5 drive side hub bearing fail and it damaged the axle and hub casing considerably but not end of life, this was after 6 months of consistent high powered usage, "Hope" wont do warranty. Fair call though as its an ebike. Bearings need regular changing on e-Bikes well this is what I'm learning as the power is obviously taking a toll. I would like someone to come out with a bullet proof hub to withstand the eBike power and not fail after 6 months, happy to pay the money for reliability and durability. Lesson learnt don't be complacent !! Check your hubs for any play and replace bearing before catastrophic mechanical failure.
10:27 I think you meant Hub Genie. Looks like a nice too. I had to use pliers sometimes, but that can leave a mark. so this tool is interesting. I think you got confused with Hope's own products, Hope Head Doctor(compression plug), Hope Grip Doctor. I have a Hope Head Doctor on my bike.
@@Mapdec To avoid scratching when using pliers a rubber spacer of some kind might help, like from light mounts or something, or a a piece of inner tube.
I read one person mention that they use oil for the pawls on the Pro5 instead of grease of the earlier versions not but nobody is mentioning this. Wouldn't lubricating the pawls be one of the most important things to show here?
Great vid as always. The biggest difference for me will be the engagement. the point something deg or what ever it was, actually was too little for me, but just enough to not be annoying, but be usable even for techy climbs, but I did notice difference switching to DT Swiss with 52T ratchet, 6 point something. But it did jam up during subzero temps sometimes, the ratchet in the freehub got stuck. Yes with the Special Grease. But I suspect Hope Pro 5 will be problem free. The new seal looks promising. Old one needed a screwdriver and some force or the Hope seal tool, which makes it easy. I love the idea of the circlip the pawls in place, but this was never an issue for me. Nor have I had issues with the axle, but I took great care of them, but I did not continue riding with worn out bearings resulting in the freehub jamming up. When I noticed the wear I had to change the bearings. A good way to tell if freehub causes locking up and chain suck happening, is to loosen the trough axle, if that solves it, bearings are worn out, and going past that will ruin the axle. A great thing with Hope 4 was I could not get it to not engage even over greasing it a bit, and even with the proper amount of grease in -10C. But if I overdid it with the grease too much it did make the hub sticky, but usually went away in a ride if it was in the winter, but going crazy with the grease covering everything completely clogging it up is not a good idea of course. I just experimented to see what was too much. So a bit too much should not be a problem, but going completely crazy with it will be problematic. it just worked, but got silent then of course, I tried it with chain lube, it got silent even then.
Great post. Thank you. I should have put in the vid really. With the higher points of engagement it means only 1 pawl is actually engaged, where as the old design had 2 pawls engaged.
⬆️ actually I thought (I could be wrong) the Pro 5 has six total pawls with only 3 engaged at one time. The other 3 are offset and this is how they increased POE. I don’t believe there are any Pawl type free hubs that only engage 1 pawl at time, are there??
Can the cassette and hub be pulled in the field and reinstalled like a DT Dwiss 350 for emergency broken spoke replacement since the seals just snap in, instead of the seal tool necessary as on the Hope Pro 4?
Yes you can. At least on the Pro 4’a. It takes a little effort but it can be done. Then popping it all back on can be a struggle too as that green seal is belligerent! But a good smack with your hand will seat it.
I would like you to take a look at the new Shimano sealed bearing hubs if possible. Haven't seen them out in the wild but they do exist on the website. TC600 and TC500.
Thinking about having my Bontrager Aeolus RSL3V rebuilt with Hope 5 hubs. Was wondering if you'd recommend something else, do you have a best of hubs video similar to your BB video? I have DT180 now and they are horrible even with the ceramic bearings they barely rotate on the stand. Swapped to SS bearings and it's worse. LBS says the bearings are getting compressed in the hub, which might explain why the ceramic bearings spin absolutely smooth outside the hub. Thoughts? Would you opt for a new wheelset or rebuild with new hubs?
This might be a silly question and it will most probably void the warranty but could i machine an aluminium washer to replace the steal washer to avoid the risk of it damaging the shaft?
Excellent teardown and level of detail, thanks! Also Hope, Wera, Wheels Mfg, and a Unior Hub Genie, nice! But where's the meths? 😂 Shame about the bearings but I guess they are committed now.
In all seriousness I just had a quick look at the tech docs, and the 6-bolt rear hubs still use the lip seal (part HUB519). Sorry for taking anyone down a rabbit hole! I'll say again, great vid and thanks for all the fantastic content
I still have the Hope Pro 2 on a vintage wheelset - it worked flawlessly over the years, but, sadly, I`d choose DT hubs for a new set of wheels. They are just as reliable but simpler to maintain: no seals, ratchet is much quicker to clean and regrease than pawls.
I've recently bought a Hope pro 5 wheelset. I have XD body but I can't remove the top cap, it's really stuck. How do you remove it? Is it necessary to remove the top cap to install a cassette?
You need to remove the end cap to fit the cassette tool in the splines- at least on a Pro 4 you did. Are the 5’s different somehow?? Just use pliers with a piece of an old inner tube wrapped around the end cap. It’ll come off.
It looks like a fine product. I might argue that a cheap hub might serve as well. Many wheels are tossed into the bin when they get tacoed along with the hubs. Those nonstandard bearings might discourage repair of said wheel. For a road bike, I don't get the need for all those points of engagement. For a mountain bike or trials bike, it makes perfect sense. The proliferation of proprietary freehubs makes getting replacement at a bikeshop unlikely. YOUR TOUR IS OVER!
LOL, its easy to strip and rebuild a hub in minutes when its not built into a wheel. Sick hubs though, quite likely to be part of my next trail bike build.
I'm a big fan of Hope Pro hubs.. and have have a ten year old pair that have stood up to the very worst of our Irish winters. I just wish Hope would sell their straight pull road/rim brake hubs to the public.. I even emailed them several times, but they will only sell me a complete wheel set which incorporates their straight pull road hubs...but they do sell their MTB straight pull hubs separately for some inexplicable reason... ????
You ought to update the video where you repeatedly mention the bearings as 17x28x7, as they most definitely are not, they are 17x30x7, as I've just found out to my detriment 😂
Me too, ordered a new wheelset built with the Hope Pro 5s, they are very quiet.. I actually like louder hubs... I replaced the wheels in my specialized SJ Evo comp they are nice,loud and to me a pleasant sound.... Hoping the Pro 5s get a little louder...is there a trick to make them louder?
Love Hope hubs, the problems you mention are down to lack of routine maintenance. They are so easy to pull apart and check for wear & tear, so no excuses really. Seems that some people wait until it breaks rather than maintaining it.
4:09 Here are some of my hacks on Pro4:
I put grease in the groove in the freehub to seal it even more.
light coat of grease on everything.
But on one of the hubs the pawls did rust some on the side.
But this would still not stop water ingress completely, but helped.
I am putting hBN in mine and in the bearings
Brilliant been waiting for someone to strip a hope pro 5 and show us the details of these awesome hubs
I can’t believe hope didn’t do it at launch.
I like it. I have a set of 2 Evo that I've had come off an old QR standard mtb. Converted for a boost spaced bikepacking mtb. And now standard non-boost on my gravel bike. Do all the maintenance on them myself. Definitely a bike component I've gotten my money's worth with. I know other companies have that cross compatibility now too. But it was Hope's design that got me over the mental inertia of pulling apart my own hubs. I'll always be a fan.
That’s some conversion history. But they still work great.
I have the Pro4’s 20Five Hope Wheelset on my Gravel Winter bike and they’ve never failed me. Cheers for the first look😊👍
I’ve got the same wheelset and hubs, no issues (2 years going strong!)
i have the RS4 center lock 20Five wheelset since june 2019. i just upgraded the bearings to hybrid ceramic changed them myself there was nothing wrong in anyway with hope bearings seals axel all was mint saved the bearings i re packed put away. and that's in London UK weather 8 month's of winter and rain and and be lucky if you got 4 months of summer roads canal paths going up and down curbs bumps hols etc etc daily and the wheels are 100% round no shape has been lost at all. Bontrager the originals wheels set i had was useless no strength and much more heavy , since i changed bearings the bike is a rocket.
@@topbanana4013 I hear ya, top notch mate😊👍
Surgeon master of Hope.
Just about to recieve my first set soon. This info will be invaluable, Thanks a lot!
DT for me. I’ve had both Hopes and 240s for ages, the DTs have been faultless whereas I had issues with both Hope rear hubs. The Pro2 ss developed a mushroomed axle, while the Pro 4 had a wobble right out of the box. Other than that the DTs are considerably lighter and never skip, unlike any pawl hub. I ran a King for a while as well, work of art but it needed too much service and I had to readjust the bearing preload all the time.
honestly rather have a dt hub as well, easier to clean out despite needing a tool to take the drive ring out for bearing services
which DT model u mean?
@@malayneum any dt hub with the ratchet system. I personally run 240 hubs but the 350s work just as well for a lot less money.
Really nice video!
Thank you Tim.
I wish I could run anything else, but I've still got 135mm dropouts on my mtb since I refuse to give up 26" wheels. Nobody else really makes premium hubs at that size.
You can in fact find Hope Pro 4’s in 135mm width. It might be hard to find them but they (used to) exist
Had my rear pro5 drive side hub bearing fail and it damaged the axle and hub casing considerably but not end of life, this was after 6 months of consistent high powered usage, "Hope" wont do warranty. Fair call though as its an ebike. Bearings need regular changing on e-Bikes well this is what I'm learning as the power is obviously taking a toll.
I would like someone to come out with a bullet proof hub to withstand the eBike power and not fail after 6 months, happy to pay the money for reliability and durability. Lesson learnt don't be complacent !! Check your hubs for any play and replace bearing before catastrophic mechanical failure.
Love how the press matches the color. What if it was made in the same factory as hub shells...
All the best for Sally too!
If only hope made a nice press tool.
10:27 I think you meant Hub Genie. Looks like a nice too. I had to use pliers sometimes, but that can leave a mark. so this tool is interesting.
I think you got confused with Hope's own products, Hope Head Doctor(compression plug), Hope Grip Doctor.
I have a Hope Head Doctor on my bike.
Thanks for noticing. I didn’t notice even though all the editing 😂
@@Mapdec
To avoid scratching when using pliers a rubber spacer of some kind might help, like from light mounts or something, or a a piece of inner tube.
nice 👍
That 'classic blue grease' is Mobil XPH 222 in case anyone is wondering.
I’ll put this in the vs vid tonight
@@Mapdecsurely Mobil XHP 222
Mobil XHP 222
Would be nice if NTN/SKF/FAG/etc made 17x28x7 bearings, until then I'll stick to hubs with ISO bearings.
Totally agree. I really thought they would switch.
Excellent video! What tool did you use to get the bearings?
in my opinion it's a lot sophisticated, compared to a 350 from DT, but the pro5 is the only one available in 12x142mm with 36 spoke holes..
I read one person mention that they use oil for the pawls on the Pro5 instead of grease of the earlier versions not but nobody is mentioning this. Wouldn't lubricating the pawls be one of the most important things to show here?
See next vid of 350 vs pro 5
Great vid as always.
The biggest difference for me will be the engagement. the point something deg or what ever it was, actually was too little for me, but just enough to not be annoying, but be usable even for techy climbs, but I did notice difference switching to DT Swiss with 52T ratchet, 6 point something. But it did jam up during subzero temps sometimes, the ratchet in the freehub got stuck. Yes with the Special Grease. But I suspect Hope Pro 5 will be problem free.
The new seal looks promising. Old one needed a screwdriver and some force or the Hope seal tool, which makes it easy.
I love the idea of the circlip the pawls in place, but this was never an issue for me.
Nor have I had issues with the axle, but I took great care of them, but I did not continue riding with worn out bearings resulting in the freehub jamming up.
When I noticed the wear I had to change the bearings.
A good way to tell if freehub causes locking up and chain suck happening, is to loosen the trough axle, if that solves it, bearings are worn out, and going past that will ruin the axle.
A great thing with Hope 4 was I could not get it to not engage even over greasing it a bit, and even with the proper amount of grease in -10C. But if I overdid it with the grease too much it did make the hub sticky, but usually went away in a ride if it was in the winter, but going crazy with the grease covering everything completely clogging it up is not a good idea of course. I just experimented to see what was too much. So a bit too much should not be a problem, but going completely crazy with it will be problematic.
it just worked, but got silent then of course, I tried it with chain lube, it got silent even then.
Great post. Thank you. I should have put in the vid really. With the higher points of engagement it means only 1 pawl is actually engaged, where as the old design had 2 pawls engaged.
⬆️ actually I thought (I could be wrong) the Pro 5 has six total pawls with only 3 engaged at one time. The other 3 are offset and this is how they increased POE. I don’t believe there are any Pawl type free hubs that only engage 1 pawl at time, are there??
hey what about race face vault compare to this hope hubs???
Can the cassette and hub be pulled in the field and reinstalled like a DT Dwiss 350 for emergency broken spoke replacement since the seals just snap in, instead of the seal tool necessary as on the Hope Pro 4?
Good question. It wouldn’t be easy
Any chance you can throw on a cassette and give it a try?
Yes you can. At least on the Pro 4’a. It takes a little effort but it can be done. Then popping it all back on can be a struggle too as that green seal is belligerent! But a good smack with your hand will seat it.
I would like you to take a look at the new Shimano sealed bearing hubs if possible. Haven't seen them out in the wild but they do exist on the website. TC600 and TC500.
That’s a good shout. I will get some in
Does anyone know if the 54poe ebike free hub is compatible with the normal pro 5 135mm ? I assume it is but no clear information I can find on it.
Thinking about having my Bontrager Aeolus RSL3V rebuilt with Hope 5 hubs. Was wondering if you'd recommend something else, do you have a best of hubs video similar to your BB video? I have DT180 now and they are horrible even with the ceramic bearings they barely rotate on the stand. Swapped to SS bearings and it's worse. LBS says the bearings are getting compressed in the hub, which might explain why the ceramic bearings spin absolutely smooth outside the hub. Thoughts? Would you opt for a new wheelset or rebuild with new hubs?
I would find a better bike shop. DT Swiss 180 are excellent. It sounds like they have installed the bearing behind the lockring incorrectly.
Is that the same ridley from the graphic designer you built up ages ago with campag chorus groupset? Thing of beauty that was
No. It will be featuring in the next vid though.
This might be a silly question and it will most probably void the warranty but could i machine an aluminium washer to replace the steal washer to avoid the risk of it damaging the shaft?
I doubt there would be anything wrong with that. Many similar designs use an alu washer.
@@Mapdec ok cool thanks for the reply and loving the channel 🤙
I will try but the issue is on the front hub only. Is it possible to over press the bearings? BTW screw SHIMANO. Your integrity is what matters most
What about the bearings in the freehub (there are 2 I'm right)? How do you take them off the freehub?
A slide hammer or a drift.
NICE LIKE M 😊
Excellent teardown and level of detail, thanks! Also Hope, Wera, Wheels Mfg, and a Unior Hub Genie, nice! But where's the meths? 😂 Shame about the bearings but I guess they are committed now.
Meths ?
@@Mapdec Hope used to recommend it for fitting the disc-side seal!
@@vanguardcycles ah. No more disc side seal. It’s just exposed bearing now
@@Mapdec that's all well and good but what am I going to do with all this meths? It's all a bit 1950s garden shed! 😂
In all seriousness I just had a quick look at the tech docs, and the 6-bolt rear hubs still use the lip seal (part HUB519). Sorry for taking anyone down a rabbit hole! I'll say again, great vid and thanks for all the fantastic content
I still have the Hope Pro 2 on a vintage wheelset - it worked flawlessly over the years, but, sadly, I`d choose DT hubs for a new set of wheels. They are just as reliable but simpler to maintain: no seals, ratchet is much quicker to clean and regrease than pawls.
Apart from having to remove the drive ring to change the hub shell bearings which can be a pain.
I've recently bought a Hope pro 5 wheelset. I have XD body but I can't remove the top cap, it's really stuck. How do you remove it? Is it necessary to remove the top cap to install a cassette?
You can remove it with a Unior Hub Grnie. Or carefully with pliers. You don’t need to remove to fit cassette.
You need to remove the end cap to fit the cassette tool in the splines- at least on a Pro 4 you did. Are the 5’s different somehow?? Just use pliers with a piece of an old inner tube wrapped around the end cap. It’ll come off.
I think the look to be a really good hub if your bike can use them, but Hope should offer them in black and polished silver.
Oh they do.
@@Mapdec That's good then. I'm glad they listened and were able to do this so quickly, LOL.
Can you use the new springs on a pro 4 freehub will they fit
I’m gonna try now. I very much doubt it.
Did they fit springs pawls etc
Are springs for the pro 5 available anywhere yet?
Not that I have seen.
will the pro 5 freehub fit a pro 4 hub
No. They are very different
@@Mapdec will the pro 4 freehub fit a pro 5 hub
Sadly, no! 😩
I use hBN powder in all parts
Hope Pro 5 vs dt swiss 240 exp?
The new EXP hubs have moved away from normal bearings to these smaller ones, too.
Which hubs are more durable?
Tough choice. I feel a vid coming on.
@@Mapdec Maybe Hope PRO 5 vs DT 240 EXP vs I9 101 ?
Will.the axle retrofit to the Pro4 ?
It looks like a fine product. I might argue that a cheap hub might serve as well. Many wheels are tossed into the bin when they get tacoed along with the hubs. Those nonstandard bearings might discourage repair of said wheel. For a road bike, I don't get the need for all those points of engagement. For a mountain bike or trials bike, it makes perfect sense. The proliferation of proprietary freehubs makes getting replacement at a bikeshop unlikely. YOUR TOUR IS OVER!
Engagement is important for some MTB, but you sacrifice how many pawls are actually engaged in the ratchet.
LOL, its easy to strip and rebuild a hub in minutes when its not built into a wheel. Sick hubs though, quite likely to be part of my next trail bike build.
Even easier built into a wheel. You don’t need to grip the hub to knock out the bearings.
Ich brauche genau dieses Werkzeug
I'm a big fan of Hope Pro hubs.. and have have a ten year old pair that have stood up to the very worst of our Irish winters. I just wish Hope would sell their straight pull road/rim brake hubs to the public.. I even emailed them several times, but they will only sell me a complete wheel set which incorporates their straight pull road hubs...but they do sell their MTB straight pull hubs separately for some inexplicable reason... ????
Oh. Interesting. That’s so strange.
You ought to update the video where you repeatedly mention the bearings as 17x28x7, as they most definitely are not, they are 17x30x7, as I've just found out to my detriment 😂
Noted. Thank you.
I can hardly hear mine. Not happy Jan.
Me too, ordered a new wheelset built with the Hope Pro 5s, they are very quiet.. I actually like louder hubs... I replaced the wheels in my specialized SJ Evo comp they are nice,loud and to me a pleasant sound.... Hoping the Pro 5s get a little louder...is there a trick to make them louder?
@@deaconnyte9748 I like mine loud. Seen a few tricks on UTube. Will get my mate at bike shop onto it.
Open the free hub up and remove a lot of the grease. It usually makes them louder. Maybe your set came with excessive grease in the free hub?
@@paulmaul Yeas. Done that & bent the springs. Made them a bit louder.
yeah bearings are not cheap from hope
I'm sure Sally's pro 5 hubs will hold up fine, in my experience most hub issues are caused by overzealous hosepipe/pressure washing .