Can't wait to watch the series. This is exactly what I am looking for. I want to figure out how to process the images so you can actually see the color and detail in the greenish/yellowish nebulous line in the skull's left cheek area. Right now, mine always comes out as pure white, with no detail Also, If you stack the images in Deep Sky Stacker, it will align the images for you. You just have to select a master reference frame in one of the tabs for the color channels, and just keep it as the reference frame as you stack each of the channels/tabs. So for example, if my reference frame is in the Ha tab, even when I stack the subs in the OIII tab, it will align them in accordance with the reference frame in the Ha tab, even though I am not including that sub in the OIII stack. Then when you import each channel into Pixinsight, you just need to crop out all the junk border areas. I've never taken the time to figure out the pixinsight stacking process, but I would think they would have a feature like that as well, to avoid the manual star alignment process.
Thank you! I know it’s not the most engaging kind of videos, and it won’t get tons of views, but I hope it is useful. I’m sure you’ll also enjoy the last two videos in this series! Thanks for watching!
@@darkskygeek I've been using WBPP but never 100% happy and wanted to have a go at doing each stage "manually" so to speak .. never been sure of the stages and how to use the individual tools .. even after reading guides .. seein you do this visually has really helped ...
When do you get flats? And how? Why not to use Sharpcap master dark and master flat captures? It will do everything from start to finish for all filters in 5 min. Ready to use!
I usually run the same sequence for several days in a row. I get flats while waiting for dark, usually on the first or second night, it does not really matter. As far as how I take my flats, I recommend you check out this video: th-cam.com/video/3Ecm0WOSdxw/w-d-xo.html. Hope this helps!
Note that image scale does NOT influence the selection process. It is merely used for display purposes! (it depends on what you prefer, arc seconds per pixel, or number of electrons per data number)
@@darkskygeek It does for me. Resolution values are defined by FWHM. For my system, I throw away any frame above 3”. For your system, I will toss away any frame above 2.5-2.7”. This is why star alignment is so vital. For 1” (your system), guiding accuracy of 0.5-0.7” rms with 10-15% standard deviation during whole session is required. Good luck in getting it without star alignment.
Can't wait to watch the series. This is exactly what I am looking for. I want to figure out how to process the images so you can actually see the color and detail in the greenish/yellowish nebulous line in the skull's left cheek area. Right now, mine always comes out as pure white, with no detail
Also, If you stack the images in Deep Sky Stacker, it will align the images for you. You just have to select a master reference frame in one of the tabs for the color channels, and just keep it as the reference frame as you stack each of the channels/tabs. So for example, if my reference frame is in the Ha tab, even when I stack the subs in the OIII tab, it will align them in accordance with the reference frame in the Ha tab, even though I am not including that sub in the OIII stack.
Then when you import each channel into Pixinsight, you just need to crop out all the junk border areas.
I've never taken the time to figure out the pixinsight stacking process, but I would think they would have a feature like that as well, to avoid the manual star alignment process.
Absolutely Brilliant Sir ... possibly the best explanation of the whole process I have seen ... Bravo
Thank you! I know it’s not the most engaging kind of videos, and it won’t get tons of views, but I hope it is useful. I’m sure you’ll also enjoy the last two videos in this series! Thanks for watching!
@@darkskygeek I've been using WBPP but never 100% happy and wanted to have a go at doing each stage "manually" so to speak .. never been sure of the stages and how to use the individual tools .. even after reading guides .. seein you do this visually has really helped ...
When do you get flats? And how? Why not to use Sharpcap master dark and master flat captures? It will do everything from start to finish for all filters in 5 min. Ready to use!
I usually run the same sequence for several days in a row. I get flats while waiting for dark, usually on the first or second night, it does not really matter. As far as how I take my flats, I recommend you check out this video: th-cam.com/video/3Ecm0WOSdxw/w-d-xo.html. Hope this helps!
@@darkskygeek You can take it in Sharpcap and get master flats (calibrated master flats!) in no time.
How do you select subframes without specifying image scale? It will not generate correct results.
I do specify image scale: 1 arc second per pixel, which is roughly the correct value.
Note that image scale does NOT influence the selection process. It is merely used for display purposes! (it depends on what you prefer, arc seconds per pixel, or number of electrons per data number)
@@darkskygeek It does for me. Resolution values are defined by FWHM. For my system, I throw away any frame above 3”. For your system, I will toss away any frame above 2.5-2.7”. This is why star alignment is so vital. For 1” (your system), guiding accuracy of 0.5-0.7” rms with 10-15% standard deviation during whole session is required. Good luck in getting it without star alignment.