I have build a fireplace on the same principle (with 4 heat-bells) and have a construction video on my channel. The most efficient ones are called Kuznetsov stoves and are 90-95% efficient. I have been using mine (1600 bricks, about 13 000 pounds, spread on 3 floors) for the past 3 years and works amazingly. The constructions are so versatile that, ones the principles of free-floating hot gasses are known, technically there is absolutely no limitation one can build, and the efficiencies that can be achieved. Actually one burns such a fireplace only ones (extremely hot fire) per 24 hours, usually between 6-10 hours, depending, clearly on the environmental factors and the house heat-holding abilities. The point of the internal chimneys ( in the heat-bells ) is to prevent the hot gasses to go directly to the next heat-bell chamber. The gasses have to radiate partially the heat energy (high in the bell) and fall to the bottom before moving up (through the internal chimney) to the next heat-bell. This hot gasses movement, and extracting the energy from them, is known and the theory of free-floating hot gasses.
If you build this in the West then I suggest you use stainless steel flue pipe for the heat path, enclose it in standard bricks then backfill the cavities with sand. I have a basic woodstove that I've surrounded with old storage heater bricks (high iron content), boxed it all in a steel plate enclosure and filled all the gaps with sand. Retains heat for 12 hours.
This is possible I guess, making it more like a "cob bench" after a rocket stove, but the way this person is doing it in this video is best. This stove will take a long time to heat up anyway, and that's with the hot gasses touching the brick directly. This much brick and this size of "long run" will take "forever to heat up with a stove pipe inside, surrounded by sand. You would be double insulating the heat away from the bricks and it's the bricks that are designed to heat up. I agree, once it finally gets hot the "sand battery" will last a long time for radiant heat, but he has more than enough thermal mass with these 1,000 bricks. Also, gasses will move much faster in a pipe. The art of these Russian stove makers is to slow the gasses down so the energy stays mostly in the stove. This stove "as insulated pipe using sand" will move very, very fast which is not what he wants.
@@stoveadvice Sand doesn't 'insulate' anything - have you not heard of sand batteries? My suggestion to use stainless pipework is simply to negate CO leakage and, with 25 year+ guarantees on higher quality stainless flues there is little chance of such leakage. Better yet, solid stainless pipework would be better. Since the SAND is the primary heat retainer, the brickwork could be extended to whatever capacity you required as back-filling with sand is far simpler than creating a 'solid' lump of brickwork.
NOTE. Most traditional stove makers use 3 parts sand to 1 part fireclay for the JOINTS between the bricks... BUT... in this guy's application in making his own bricks he probably did the opposite.... 3 parts dirt to 1 part sand for the brick itself. For "bought bricks" for the joints, I recommend, 3 parts sand to 1 part fireclay, to 1 part lime (OR 1/2 part Type N cement) to 1 part wood ash. AND.. the joints should be thin... no more than 3/8th... 1/4 inch is best. The traditional stove makers don't use the lime or cement, but it's very hard for the amateur to keep working without a little "binder" of some kind. Clay and sand does not bind strong. There is no glue. It hard to "keep working" because everything slides around. I used 1 part lime AND a tiny bit of Type N. The bricks "bind up a bit" in just 10 minutes so you can keep working and doing more rows. No, the heat won't destroy the joints with that little tiny bit of cement or lime. Lime is not nearly as strong as cement.
Good stuff Matt. I'm looking forward to your comments on the Korean ondol. Some good videos out there of them being built. Kind of cool that the fire box is generally outside. No real bypass damper either which is something you always seem to emphasize.
I have used about 10% Portland cement in pottery kiln building, along with about 20 fire clay and 70sand. I saw a recipe for 1 fireclay, 1 Portland, 1 lime, 3 sand. Which I will probably try soon. Thanks man, awesome channel Matt!
These cob bricks handle the heat well. If they get beat up you just keep some clay sand mix on hand. Slop it on for repairs and call it a day. My cob gets beat up where logs load. I just fix it up with mud slopped on with a trowel. If I’m feeling decorative I take a wet paint brush after it. I think this guy used cob plaster. Sometimes it is even hot when I fix it but that makes blending tuff.
Very nice to see homemade bricks. As for the design, as I understand it, no bells, heat riser or other type of secondary combustion? That’s a lot of unburnt particles and energy.
Can we get a counter on how many times you say "he can't mess around"? LOL Great explanation on the use of the damper. I always wondered how they got the draft to follow that long path when it's cold.
Why not just keep it fired all the time in that kind of weather? Thats the part that gets me. Why would you start 4 fires a day? That takes a lot more wood than to just keep it going.
I don't understand this comment. The Russians have been "firing" their masonry heaters 2 x a day, (morning and night) using 4 or 5 pieces of wood each time, for 200 years. So that's, at most, only 10 pieces a day. You would use less wood loading wood in there all day long? How is that possible? The other thing is, it would get TOO HOT. It's 5 to 7 thousand pounds of thermal mass which stores heat for 5 to 8 hours.
@stoveadvice I guess it's just something I would have to see in real life. I'm skeptical. 🤷 Knowing the btu output of wood per pound... Seems unlikely that 4 or 5 pieces of an evergreen which would be mostly what they would have access too in that climate is going to handle 40 below. Fired twice a day x 5 pieces per burn. Insulation must be insane.
@stoveadvice let me add I heat my home with wood. So 25 years as adult. And grew up doing the same. In less than well insulated houses. You are not going to maintain room temperature with that woodload I'm sorry but it's not possible now you would maintain a temperature where you would not die but you definitely ain't going to be anywhere near room temperature. Not in that kind of weather. Unless your heating 400 ft².
@@MightycaptainYou just cracked the puzzle there. They do live in tiny log cabins and usually sleep right next to the fireplace during the winter times.
What the prohibition-obsessed inspector/chimney sweeper in GERMANY does not know is that he has no right to do so; he will not be able to obtain a signed and sealed law from any archive, so he is acting under highway robbery. with love :-)TSC #4ALLE
Saying that they know what they are doing because they live in Siberia is a logical fallacy. These are by any western standard very poor and very uninformed people who try to make the best with the little they can afford and if they knew what they are doing, they would start with insulation instead of living in drafty houses in extremely cold climate.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 89 | คู่เอก "ยอดไอคิว vs คิริลล์"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Z3vYkHJ_5Ig/mqdefault.jpg)
I have build a fireplace on the same principle (with 4 heat-bells) and have a construction video on my channel. The most efficient ones are called Kuznetsov stoves and are 90-95% efficient. I have been using mine (1600 bricks, about 13 000 pounds, spread on 3 floors) for the past 3 years and works amazingly. The constructions are so versatile that, ones the principles of free-floating hot gasses are known, technically there is absolutely no limitation one can build, and the efficiencies that can be achieved. Actually one burns such a fireplace only ones (extremely hot fire) per 24 hours, usually between 6-10 hours, depending, clearly on the environmental factors and the house heat-holding abilities. The point of the internal chimneys ( in the heat-bells ) is to prevent the hot gasses to go directly to the next heat-bell chamber. The gasses have to radiate partially the heat energy (high in the bell) and fall to the bottom before moving up (through the internal chimney) to the next heat-bell. This hot gasses movement, and extracting the energy from them, is known and the theory of free-floating hot gasses.
What Kuznetsov design is that. I don't recognize yours from his plans at www.stove.ru
If you build this in the West then I suggest you use stainless steel flue pipe for the heat path, enclose it in standard bricks then backfill the cavities with sand. I have a basic woodstove that I've surrounded with old storage heater bricks (high iron content), boxed it all in a steel plate enclosure and filled all the gaps with sand. Retains heat for 12 hours.
This is possible I guess, making it more like a "cob bench" after a rocket stove, but the way this person is doing it in this video is best. This stove will take a long time to heat up anyway, and that's with the hot gasses touching the brick directly. This much brick and this size of "long run" will take "forever to heat up with a stove pipe inside, surrounded by sand. You would be double insulating the heat away from the bricks and it's the bricks that are designed to heat up. I agree, once it finally gets hot the "sand battery" will last a long time for radiant heat, but he has more than enough thermal mass with these 1,000 bricks. Also, gasses will move much faster in a pipe. The art of these Russian stove makers is to slow the gasses down so the energy stays mostly in the stove. This stove "as insulated pipe using sand" will move very, very fast which is not what he wants.
@@stoveadvice Sand doesn't 'insulate' anything - have you not heard of sand batteries? My suggestion to use stainless pipework is simply to negate CO leakage and, with 25 year+ guarantees on higher quality stainless flues there is little chance of such leakage. Better yet, solid stainless pipework would be better. Since the SAND is the primary heat retainer, the brickwork could be extended to whatever capacity you required as back-filling with sand is far simpler than creating a 'solid' lump of brickwork.
I am in Southern California by the Beach and i will at some point have one of these .
NOTE. Most traditional stove makers use 3 parts sand to 1 part fireclay for the JOINTS between the bricks... BUT... in this guy's application in making his own bricks he probably did the opposite.... 3 parts dirt to 1 part sand for the brick itself. For "bought bricks" for the joints, I recommend, 3 parts sand to 1 part fireclay, to 1 part lime (OR 1/2 part Type N cement) to 1 part wood ash. AND.. the joints should be thin... no more than 3/8th... 1/4 inch is best. The traditional stove makers don't use the lime or cement, but it's very hard for the amateur to keep working without a little "binder" of some kind. Clay and sand does not bind strong. There is no glue. It hard to "keep working" because everything slides around. I used 1 part lime AND a tiny bit of Type N. The bricks "bind up a bit" in just 10 minutes so you can keep working and doing more rows. No, the heat won't destroy the joints with that little tiny bit of cement or lime. Lime is not nearly as strong as cement.
Good stuff Matt. I'm looking forward to your comments on the Korean ondol. Some good videos out there of them being built. Kind of cool that the fire box is generally outside. No real bypass damper either which is something you always seem to emphasize.
I have used about 10% Portland cement in pottery kiln building, along with about 20 fire clay and 70sand. I saw a recipe for 1 fireclay, 1 Portland, 1 lime, 3 sand. Which I will probably try soon. Thanks man, awesome channel Matt!
These cob bricks handle the heat well. If they get beat up you just keep some clay sand mix on hand. Slop it on for repairs and call it a day. My cob gets beat up where logs load. I just fix it up with mud slopped on with a trowel. If I’m feeling decorative I take a wet paint brush after it. I think this guy used cob plaster. Sometimes it is even hot when I fix it but that makes blending tuff.
cool... thanks !
Looking to build in Maine, will build like this!
Very nice to see homemade bricks. As for the design, as I understand it, no bells, heat riser or other type of secondary combustion? That’s a lot of unburnt particles and energy.
They kinda are long bells... it's a hybrid... They are too wide to call this a channel stove..... right down the middle.
Brilliant great job
Can we get a counter on how many times you say "he can't mess around"? LOL Great explanation on the use of the damper. I always wondered how they got the draft to follow that long path when it's cold.
Well, since your the only one who cares, how many times was it?
Very cool. The bricks will end up being fired during use
Outer layers of brick would never get fired. The firebox brick are probably the only ones that will get somewhat fired
Why not just keep it fired all the time in that kind of weather? Thats the part that gets me. Why would you start 4 fires a day? That takes a lot more wood than to just keep it going.
I don't understand this comment. The Russians have been "firing" their masonry heaters 2 x a day, (morning and night) using 4 or 5 pieces of wood each time, for 200 years. So that's, at most, only 10 pieces a day. You would use less wood loading wood in there all day long? How is that possible? The other thing is, it would get TOO HOT. It's 5 to 7 thousand pounds of thermal mass which stores heat for 5 to 8 hours.
@stoveadvice I guess it's just something I would have to see in real life. I'm skeptical. 🤷 Knowing the btu output of wood per pound... Seems unlikely that 4 or 5 pieces of an evergreen which would be mostly what they would have access too in that climate is going to handle 40 below. Fired twice a day x 5 pieces per burn. Insulation must be insane.
@stoveadvice let me add I heat my home with wood. So 25 years as adult. And grew up doing the same. In less than well insulated houses. You are not going to maintain room temperature with that woodload I'm sorry but it's not possible now you would maintain a temperature where you would not die but you definitely ain't going to be anywhere near room temperature. Not in that kind of weather. Unless your heating 400 ft².
@@stoveadvice I do enjoy your content. This subject is of great interest to me. And I like what you break down.
@@MightycaptainYou just cracked the puzzle there. They do live in tiny log cabins and usually sleep right next to the fireplace during the winter times.
rmh without the r. plenty to like, just want to make sure the burn is efficient.
💥👍
i like it
The Koreans do this except they channel the exhaust under the floor so the whole floor heats up.
Yea.. Ondol.
What the prohibition-obsessed inspector/chimney sweeper in GERMANY does not know is that he has no right to do so; he will not be able to obtain a signed and sealed law from any archive, so he is acting under highway robbery.
with love :-)TSC #4ALLE
Saying that they know what they are doing because they live in Siberia is a logical fallacy. These are by any western standard very poor and very uninformed people who try to make the best with the little they can afford and if they knew what they are doing, they would start with insulation instead of living in drafty houses in extremely cold climate.